iD OMAHA "DAILY 111313 : SI'NUwSv , JAN IT ANY 17 , 1897.
< fftV
1 IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
W
I I I i f I I'M fc M 1 1 t I f t I I
mi : KA.SIIIOX.S i.v PAIIIS.
mill IINcrlinlmttliiK DNIInr-
ttllllN III Dri'NN.
PARIS. Jaiu 2.-TIcro ) la a subtle difference
between dunclng gowns nnd other evening
V dress. The difference the prosaic may say
Is only a division between the thin nnJ heavy
ntunVj. but the Initiated know that It Is n
Kood deal more , know that It menns a dell-
cftto adjustment of materials to mooda , and
that nttentlott to II Is Just now one of the
condition ! ! of a successful tnllct.
Take nn example : A skirt of vaporous
violet tulle , Its manifold pleats streaked
down with silver real steel beada to bo nc-
cttrnto ; a bcillco equally In pleats ami silver
lines , the wl.ole clasped by a zone of silver
nnd shadowed by n bolero of violet velvet.
This dry-goods poem of Cynthia rising on
twilight clouds , could It have been made for
anything but the dance ? It In In this sort of
gown Hint 1'arlslans are now threading the
nuucH. SklrtH that vibrate to tbo notes of
the waltz ; drees thnt Is gay with the wearer.
IlcsMo It put this : A gown of green velvet
without a vcetlgo of trimming , the collar
fofuewd by nn emerald brooch. Tills la rich
nnd wprlcus and suited to nn occasion when
t..o wearer Is a passive spectator. It Is a
pcrfe-'t dress for the opera.
The distinction Is nice , Is quite real and
la commended to the study of the fastidious.
CLOTH AND VKL.VET.
Amone new balgowna \ arc the following.
A alclrt of pnle yellow gauze striped with
yellow satin , pleated and pcoed loose over a
eldrt of yellow silk. The bodice of orange
velvet , the fronts pleated nnd creased diag
onally , and over the bodice n short bolero oi
cream lace lined with yellow silk. Thi
Bleovo Is a puff of velvet nnd gauze. A
black tulle gown over black has sleevca and
bolt of green velvet with an accompaniment
of Parma violets and leaves. The bodlco Is
cut square necked with straps and the sleeve
y IH nomore than loops of the velvet sowed
to the straps nuil standing high over the
shoulder. The flowers form n garland along
the Inaldo cdgo of the strap , but do not cross
the front. A' large bunch ot violets Is fas
tened nt the belt In front. A gown cf
amethyst crcpo has the bodlco draped In
pleats running round , with ono front drawn
up diagonally and carried across and centered
at the angle of tlu\ \ neck under a rosette ofT
-T ?
ZEBRLINB CLOTH WITH BLACK BRAID.
nmethyst shaded velvet. The sleeves , like
the preceding , are formed of largo loops of
velvet sowed to the shouldcrstrnt ] . The
eklrt of this gotvn la now. It Is not pleated ;
It Is cut bl&3 , with a bias acnm down thu
mlddlo of the front , and a largo cord U
shirred In about thrco Inches down from the
belt , ana on this cord the slight fullncts of
the uklrt Id slipped either toward the front
or the back , as ls needed to adjust It to the
form of the wearer. It la hemmed at the
bottom and bordered with velvet and It lu
finished loruc frccn the lining.
SKIRTS AND IIOUIOUS.
Silk and satin skirts are cut to nt close
round the top and break Ilko an umbrella
Into a great many godots below. Thcro arc
no gathers behind , but there are two Hat
pleats that fold under and meet. Such a
skirt of pink satin has thrco narrow bands
of sable put on so as to describe a curve ,
low In front nnd rising toward the back.
To avoid the anglo that would bo mailo be
hind by the two sides of the curve coming
together , the line U reversed and roundii
upward behind. Round the top of the skirt ,
close to the belt , there Is an appllquo of
whllo gulpuro over whlto satin somu two or
thrco Inches deep. The bodlco U of lace
over whlto ( .atln , with a bolero of pink vel
vet , short behind and open In front , trimmed
with parallel rows of uablo to match the
uklrt. Another model ot satin has the upper
part of the skirt In tucks running round.
The bodice , also Is In tucks of thu same
width , and the two meet without a belt , and
glvo n princess effect , The princess towns
are inado nUo.
Other gowna , suited equally to other occa
sions , as for dinners , are of colored taffeta ,
smoothly covered with conrso black gren
adine , on which chenlllo Mowers are ap-
pllqued. They have flnlnhlngs of black velvet -
vet ribbon the color of the taffeta. Jet pas-
somontcrlo may take the place of the che
nille. Tlio appllquo Is put on the front of the
uklrt nnd the front of thu bodlco. The col
ored ground throws It uut In rich relief.
At the opera U "belni ; woin , curiously
ba great deal of gray. "Elephant"
gray Is In high fashion. A gown of this
color In velvet has a wldo baud of cream
guipure fiver whlto satin running round
the eklrt between the knee nnd the belt ,
am ! the bodice linn a bolero of the lace over
white satin. There la a short sleeve of
velvet with a long cloie slcevo of lace formIng -
Ing a , transparency on the arm. These
long slecvca with low necked gowns arc a
cnprlco of the moment. They ore made
of transparent material.1 ! nnd cling to the
arm Ilko the glove they replace.
Lace berthas and other full shoulder trim
mings have fallen out of fa\or. The great
chic la a stjunro dacollcto with shoulder-
straps and a very little alcove , end the neck
across the front and back left untrlmmod.
This plain edge at the neck Is one of tha
peculiarities of the season.
The latest t-lcganco In evening cloalm
li a huge standing collar of fur , to which
Is attached a loose drapery with sleeves.
The drapery nny be long or short. This
sounds vague , but the garment Is still
vaguer. Apparently form has been ex
hausted nnd we have returned again to
chaos. Or Is It n prehistoric revival ?
It sc'cnin to be made ai follows : Sew to
gether n number of brcadthu all of the
same length , and shirr them across one
ond. Make the shirring elx or eight
Inches deep and draw up the threads till
ths piece fits around the neck , which will
give a sort of cape with the shirring fern
n yoke Now eepanito the breadths that
fall over the arms from those that fall
down the front and back , and Join the
stile-breadths to firm n full sleeve , which
Is finished with n cuff at the wrist. Then
Join under the arm the edges left at back
and front , and you have a sort of Jacket
In which the sleeve and the body are con
founded , and of which the aforesaid huge
collar Is the only tangible part. If thin
reads Ilko the flrat day of creation the
fault U not mine. Hut I shall bo greatly
to blame If I do not Impress upon the
reader that the result la postlvcly seraphic.
Also wo are certain to have some devel
opments on this bnsls for spring.
DUI3SS IN THE SOCIETY PLAY3.
Stage dress In I'arls Is no crude travesty ;
It Is the high school of fntmlon , and If It
differs from the private dreaj , differs only
In an access of novelty and elegance. H
Is made by the great dressmakers , and they
relzo on the society plays to launch new
'modes. Hero follow some notes made at the
play houses.
Ulouses continue to be very much worn.
They fit down close behind , and are slightly
bouffant In front. Yoke effect , * of trimming
liavo not been abandoned , but n newer Idea
Is to make the front double-breasted , with
a runic set down the edge. This ruffle ID
about four Inches wldo nnd Is crimped ; It 1s
made double nnd even triple , and falls out
very full down the left side. Thus a brown
cloth gown with ntich n blouse has n mine
of red taffeta with another ruffle over I. of
black chiffon. Bloure necka are fashlwiably
finished with a turned iloun collar set on at
the top of the neckband. Thus , on the same
gown a collar of red taffeta turns down
over the brown band.
Holts nro full of caprice. Now thiy are
lo-v in front and rise up high In the buck ,
tarried higher by a long , slender bow
whoso donkey cars run almost to the nick ;
now they arc wide In front and drop to a
knot , behind ; again they are the same all
the way round. They are anything to lelp
out a design or to cover otherwise unoccu
pied space.
An to sleeves the great point Is to kc p
them simple In form. The perfect sleeve
Is or fccnui to be cut of a single piece.
The movement toward decorated sleeves
continues to develop , the trimming being
always of bands stitched flat so as not to
Interrupt the outline. Some long sleeves
have a ruffle at the elbow. Exaggerated
length at the band has been for the most
part abandoned and the alccvo ends where
It flhould at the wrist. The wrlft has a
rufllo or a cuff or both , or It may end with
lothlng at all but a cord.
Skirts are trimmed at the top , though this
Is only one among other caprices , for other
skirts are trimmed at the bottom and still
others are trimmed round the middle. The
Idea seems to bo a chose for surprises. A
certain well known dressmaker has tried
for two years to Impose upon fashion a
skirt madri with the lower halt of one ma
terial nnd the upper half of another , as , for
example , the lower part of blue velvet and
the upper part of raspberry red cloth.
Skirts made Ilko this are occasionally seen ,
hut they arc rare. The fact Is when all
Is said , It Is the plain skirt that still has
the preference.
Mine. Hejano Is an actress whoso dress
Is much studied by fair I'arlblans. Her
garments at this moment cling and droop
Ilko sea moss on n mermaid. They swathe
tier round ns the grave-cloth a mummy ;
and ns they are now of "elephant" gray and
icier will bo of n bitumen-colored burlarv
the reader will see that these figures are
not far fetched , but that they Ho directly
under the pen.
heaving the stage for the boxes , one re
marks the great use of cloth. Cloth Is In
moro favor than any other material , and
may bo counted on to bo the first choice of
fashion for spring. A gown worn ono
evening to the Vaudeville by Queen Amelia
of Portugal on her recent visit to Paris , Is
of cafc-au-lalt cloth. It Is made with a
bolero opening over a blouse of gray
mouscllno do sole , and the front of the
skirt nnd the entire bolero are covered with
an applique pattern qt cafc-au-lalt silk. The
toque worn with this dress Is of turquoise
blue velvet with an aigrette of cream lace.
A great deal of veiling Is being used , ca
I think I have mentioned beforo. U drapes
easily and Is Inexpensive , and It makcn
very pretty gowns for the theater and
other hlmplo evening wear. The skirt
may be pleated , and the bodice pleated
and draped In surpllco fashion , leaving the
neck to bo filled In with a gulmpe of white
lace over white satin. A gown of gray
veiling thus made hcri a belt of amethyst
velvet and the name velvet at the top of
KLKl'HANT QRAY VELVET.
the whlto neckband. There Is a cuff of
whlto aitth and lace to match the chomU-
ctto and a turnover cuff of tbo velvet.
KOU TUB lUVIEKA.
All tlicho Idcua and moro are being
utilized lu the wardrobes sent down to
Nice. Cloth and velvet contumcu are the
rule , and uiucll Out braid la used. * . UlouecH
of velvet to bo worn with cloth skirts nro
made double-breasted , with a high stand
ing Jacket collar that Is eomcttmca lined
Inside fur. These arc Intended for the
promenade. A very chic costume of gray
trimmed with black braid has the dklrt
and alccvcs ot zcbcllno cloth nnd a bolero
of velvet. The skirl l trimmed near the
top with A cluster of parallel rows ot black
braid , nnd the sleeves are covered with
the same braid running round from top
to bottom , The bolero Is double-breasted
with a high flaring collar , nnd Is trimmed
with rows of the braid. High belts of
black tnffetn 'pasa up under the bolero.
Velvet gowns arc trimmed with braid In
the same way , or , Instead of braid , with
stitched bands of bias silk.
Other gowns nro mnde of mixed black nnd
whlto chovlot that has much the same effect
ns the small chacks ot last year. These nro
trimmed ttlth black braid or velvet ribbon.
An Inexpensive dcml-season gown may be
made of a skirt of this gray chovlot trimmed
with black braid and n blouse of black velvet
or velveteen. It should have n hlqh Jacket
collar , nnd may bo plain or trimmed with
braid Ilko the skirt. The braid should hnvo
both edges stitched do\\tt flat.
Some cloth gowns 'arc made with a fitted
Jacket , very open 'In front , over a blousa ol
the eamo cloth. In this Qtylo Is a gown Just
made licro for ths new Duchess d'Orleans ,
It Is n dull red cloth , trimmed with corn-
llower-bluo velvet and sab'.e. The rovers ol
velvet arc cut so as to contlnuo over the
shoulders Into a collar and square Jockeys
that fall out on the sleeves. The edge ol
the Jacket Is slashed up to the waist at In
tervals all round , and ths whole Jacket la
bordered with fur. The blouse la made with
a yoke of the velvet bordered with fur , nnd
the lower part Is gathered full. The edge ol
the skirl Is faced with velvet cut 'in a pal-
tci'a ' on the uppar edge and outlined wllh
The hats for Nice are covered with violets ,
which Is a llttlo Ilko carrying coals to New-
cc/Ule. but violets nro the fashion. Tluy are
oven the rage. Choose a red felt hat of mod
ified sailor-form ; bind It with black velvet
an Inch wide ; lay a scarf of black velvet
round the crown and twist Into a tall aig
rette nt ono sld * . Mnss violets nt the bcoo
of the nlgretto and under the brim , nnd you
are sure ct being considered exceedingly chic
on the Promenade des Anglais this spring.
I have this on th ? authority of Vlrot.
ADA CONE.
'ttII3 KMI'HUSS 01 ? JAI'AX.
The Ilfu < > f < > " l''lrxt I.ndy of tluil
Orli-utiil I.Hiul.
The empress of Japan Is now -It years of
age. She Is the daughter of one of the five
noblest families of theempire. . She has no
Imperial blood In her veins , for the lawa of
Japan provide that the empress' shall not
como of the royal family , and the daugh
ters ot the Mlkadpea of the past have usu
ally gone Into the Ilnddhlst nunneries or
have become prlestc&scs of the Shinto faith.
Her majesty was Just 18 years old at thu
time of her marriage , says Demorcst's Maga
zine. The mikado had passed through the
first part of the great revolution by which
the Shogun , or commander-In-chlef of the
army , was overthrown , and ho wca again
placed at their head na the chief ruler of hla
people. Ho had moved from his capital In
western Japan to the City of Yeddo , which
was hereafter to bo called Toklo , or the new
capital , and ho went back to Kioto to celc-
brato his wedding. The marriage took place
In a temple Insldo of the gorgeous old pal
ace of this holy city , and the divinity hedg
ing1 the Imperial family was still so great
that the world got no accounl of the cere
mony.
The EmpresB Hani Ko had been brought
up In the strictest seclusion. She had been
taught something of the Chlncijo classics ,
and was versed In all matters of ceremonial
etiquette. Hut blio knew absolutely .nothing
of the great world of modern civilization.
She soon grasped , however , the wonderful
change which was taking place In the Japan
ese empire , and the Joined with the mikado
In pushing all kinds of modern reforms.
Tlireo years after her marrlago she gave an
audience to five young girls who wcro startIng -
Ing out to America to study western civiliza
tion from the standpoint of women , and
the heii Unco organized chailtlcs and
schools , a lid Inaugurated all eorts of benev
olent Institution ! ) . She has a largo private
Income , but she spends BO much upon charity
that she keeps herself poor , and tmc actually
goes without things tin I imo needs In order
to give more to her people.
In all tiling'1 the cmprraa sets the exam
ple for her people , and , not many years
ago she decided to adopt our style of
dress. She stopped blacking her togth soon
after her marrlugo , and her eyebrows are
now allowed to grow out ns treely as those
of an American woman. The selection of
foreign clothes Instead of the old Japanese
ccstumo wan much deprecated by forolgnerii ,
and a number ot American women filed
tome tort of a protest against It. The ques
tion of getting the measure of the cmprcas
was a matter of considerable moment. Her
majesty's form was tco holy to bo handled
by n. common dressmaker , to a compromise
wan made by taking the measure of the
Countess Ho , the wlto of the premier , who
Is of Juat about the same height and uliupu
as the empress , The costume was not
adopted until after long discussion , and It
was not until nearly twenty years after her
marrlago tint "ho appeared In state In for
eign clothes. In 18SS sbo still were the old
Japanese costume at a garden party ; and
tula , as described by a lady who uaw'lier
upon that occasion , cinsl t < ji ) o [ n divided
ftklrt of the heaviest BcarloUiyik under n
long , loose kimono ot dull iliclfntropp , bro
caded with conventional wlorl ; nnd the Im
perial crest In white. She vorc no outer
obi , or snsh , about the wnlsl. with the big
bow nt the Imck , as la common to most
Japanese dresses , and her nook ! wnn wrapped
high with surpllco folds of rcilnbow-tlntcd
ellks. She had long , square sleeves ot this
heavy brocade , nnd you could see many un-
dordrcsscs of fine whlto nnd' scarlet Bilk
showing beneath these. Shb v-ns Attended
by many princesses nnd peeresses , \\hci were
similar costumes , nnd she carried herself
with grcal dignity. '
Her majesty Is every Inch' hn empress.
She Is smnll nnd slender , ntid Islmt the
Jnpancsc consider beautiful. She hns n long ,
thin face , and her eyebrows have the pro
nounced arch of the willow leaf. Her face
Is sad nnd rnther pnthctlc , nnd It Is more
often sober thnn toughing. At n recent visit
to the peeresses' school nho were n dovo-
colorcd silk dress nnd a dove-colored 1'arls
bonnet with a while plume , nnd her tastes
nre , ns n rule , modest nnd .inlet. She does
not Ilko pomp , but the costumes ot the coun
try require thai when she moves through
the city It must bo In a gorgeous turnout nnd
with n largo retinue.
_
IIHI.K.V ICIiliMSIl AT SIXTIiHN.
1'roliullly < ho Mf l IlilriTNtlilK School
nirl In tin * AVorlit ,
Jusl back of Hndcllffo college , In Cam
bridge , Mass. , Is the Institution known ns
Mr. Arthur Ollmnn's Cambridge School for
Young Ladles. Hero girls nro fitting them
selves for college , nnd nmong them Is n
quiet , swect-fnccd student who Is probably
the most Interesting school girl In the world.
EVENING WHAP AND DANCING GOWN.
Her nnmo Is Helen Keller. She was deaf ,
dumb nnd blind from her babyhood until eho
reached the age of 10. ToJay , at 10 , altlio'Jgh
she Is hopelessly deaf and blind , she speaks
English , German and French fluently , and Is
mentally equal , If not superior , to any girl
of her ago lu Cambridge or elsewhere.
When nn Infant , she was Ilko any child
until she was 18 months old. Then she was
attacked by an Illness which spared her life
but robbed her of speech , sight and hearing.
The lonefy baby seemed to be shut away
from all the world , and to live In an outer
darkness , which nothing or no ono could
penetrate. Utit ono day a wonderful woman
took the unfortunate child's hand In hers ,
and the apparently hopeless work of com
municating with her was bosun. That wo
man was Miss Annie M. Sullivan , who has
taught Helen Keller all she knows and to
whom the credit of the girl's wondetfiil rec
ord Is due.
THE BLIND GIHL'S HAPPY LIFE.
Today , at 1C , Helen Keller slta In the clcas-
room of Mr. Oilman's school four bourn
dally , and takes exactly the same studlsa
pursued by her classimtca. These are
Latin. French , advanced German. English
literature , history and mathematics. Ily
HELEN KELLAU AT SIXTEEN.
her sldo sits Miss Sullivan repeating silently
to her pupil everything tuat.Ja said by the
class teacher. You will see the t'.vo figured
nlono In the front row , , ao , you inter the
room , nnd If you ore a vcrj ; close observer
you will notice that their { lands , on the scat
between them , arc clnspc'J ogether and thai
each word uttered by thete asa teacher la re
peated by almost Imperceptible motbns of
these hands. Later you Vr'UL observe a much
more Interesting sight. You will iao the
beautiful fingers of the Ifml student seek
her teacher's face and rest there , the Index
finger on , the side of ( Up Wfc , the necond
finger on the lower lip .an .tlio thumb be
neath the chin. Co mm a nilln , thus dm entire
range of nasal , lip and threat movomonta ,
Helen Keller's brain rcccl\cf , .from lior enusl-
tlvo finger-tips the messages from tlio speak
ing world. This success , .l/ ( , teaching her
pupil to read speech by lanjj \ her finger on
the speakers lips , Is pcil8ia the crown of
Mlas Sullivan's work , ycfprcv she could do
that , Helen could communicate only with
these who understood the arbitrary sign lan
guage of the blind and deaf. Now the can
undcrrtand anybody WUOEO lips she can
touch , and she has ulso been taught to
speak readily and with surprising distinct
ness , conrldcrlng her afflictions. Her speech
Is rather thick and her voice monotonous ,
which lu to be expected , considering that
r.ho herself has never heard speech since
her Infancy , and has no remembrance of
having heard It then. But ono understands
her readily , and she , wholly unconscious
of any peculiarity In her voice , talks on
rapidly , earricttly and Joyously. This Joy-
outness and the eager Interest she feels In
all new objects and persona are among the
girl'D chief charms. She Li ix > bright , no
eager , no alert , to evidently and wholly
happy , that the feeling of sympathy with
which ono approaches her seems qulto un
called for. Knowing nothing of the sin and
Ftiffrring and sorrow of the world , she turns
to the good and bright sldo of life as
nuluially av a bird eodrn upward , She 1s a
| lrl among glrli at Mr , Gllman'u school ,
and only the conetnnl presence of Miss Sulli
van would nttrrtct special attention to her
If one did not know her history.
A I'KN P1CTUIIK.
In nppenrnneo slio Is n well formed , Rrnce-
fill perfectly healthy girl of 1C , with simple
gowns , reaching to her boottnps nnd ft muss
of short , curly brown hair falling over her
shoulders. Her complexion Is clenr , her
features nro good , nml only her eyrs show
her ntnictlnn. Her expression la wonderfully
s\\rct nnd winning and her mnnner thor
oughly wcllbrcd and InrklnK In self-con
sciousness. Her most tnnrkcd characteristics
nre her joyoiuncss nnd her eagerness to
Icnrn. She laughs frequently nnd con
tagiously. She ban already become very
popular with her schoolmates , with whom
she plays nnd dances during the morning In
termission of half an hour. She learned to
dance by following the motion of the girls'
bodies with her hands ns they danced nnd
BIH feels the vibrations of the music and
keeps perfect time. She boards In Cam
bridge , but n short walk from Mr. Ollmnn's
school. Hero she meets nnd mingles with
the girls In the evening. Some of them have
asked her to teach them the hand alphabet.
"They get along very well , " she told the
writer In speaking of their attempts , "but
Borne of their mistakes are very funny. "
Helen's life nt present Is n regular one.
She Is In school from 3 o'clock In the morning
until 1. In the afternoon she rends , walks ,
visits her friends , studies , and has long nnd
delightful conversations with Miss Sullivan.
She Is Interested In all thu national ques
tions ot the day , nnd dlscussnd the gold nml
sliver question with the writer with great
earnestness.
"I should be very glad to get all 1 could
of either gold or silver , " phe ended laugh
ingly , "but of eourae I think the gold
standard U the best for America. "
She also confided to the writer that hci
great ambition Is to go throush college ,
nnd that she U fitting herself for thto career
with purely unselfish mrllves.
"I wish to bo nhlo to help others , " said
this child on whom all the world lisa
looked with tender sympathy.
It has frequently been asked whether Helen
Keller dreams of pcolot ; and hearing. She
was asked about , this the other day end hci
reply wcs prompt , cheerful and wholly to the
point.
"Of course not , " she said , "I'm Mind and
deaf. " She added that , like others , she
dreamed of the persons and the Incidents ol
her waking hours. It Is natuially Impossible
for her to understand all that Is Implied by
the won'a "seeing" and "hearing. " She
cannot wholly realize- her lack and certainly
there are compensations for these In the
nwakcnlnti of her young soul and the devel
opment of her wonderful mind.
KlIMlllllIIOtOM. .
ninck net with chenille dots Is used for
evening dresses.
Arabesque braiding nnd straight 'rows and
Vandykes ot Milan braid nro very popular.
New and beautiful shades In Russian red
appear In velvet , cloth and silk and wool
fabrics.
Trimmed skirts gain In favor , and the
manner of applying the decorations Is almost
limitless.
Soft ecru guipure nets over yellow molro
nro charmingly made up with green velvet
nnd very nnrrow lines of sable or mink fur.
Eton Jackets of fur nnd cloth Jackets with
wldn fur rcvcrs complete the most fashion
able skating costumes , which arc often made
of velveteen or corduroy.
Illack silk net plain or brilliantly Jetted ,
made up over black satin duchess Is con
sidered exceedingly smart with cerise vel
vet accessories on the fitted bodice.
Velvet Is the most fashionable material
for short street coats. They arc edged with
fur or plain , but the front shows a full vest
of some soft lace or light colored silk.
Points of untarnlshablo silver braids are
put upon Imported costumes of Russian
blue cloth trimmed with chinchilla with
vests of cream satin trimmed a la Breton ,
with silver gimp.
Very stylish French tailor costumes of Na
poleon blue cloth have the Jacket bodices
trimmed with rows of flat gold bullion and
fnstcned with expensive buttons of blue and
gold enamel.
Parisian wedding gowns are In princess
form , with slashed corsages and slecve-
puffa , the skirt and edgings of the slashings
lightly finished wltb flno pearl passcmen-
terlciT.
Stylish skirts are trimmed knee deep , with
llneo of narrow silk and metal gimp or two-
Inch bias Lands of velvet In n contrasting
color , these bands set about an Inch and a
half apart.
Ono of tlio latest Parisian novelties In seal
Is a capo full and short enough to meet the
walat line , and trimmed around a little way
from the edge with lines of gold braid
put In three groups of four , three and two.
French drotvsmakcrs are forming wedding
toilets with pretty bolero effects In lace ,
brocade and Lyons Mtln , the deep tatln
celnturcs strapped with ribbon and fastened
with buckles of French brilliants.
Thcro Is a continued striving In French
ateliers after a mingling of odd striking col
ors which never before , In all the history of
gowning , hnvo been considered either beau
tiful , artistic or In any sort of good taste.
Sarhcs of various kinds are to be worn
again , nnd they are always pretty additions
to thin dresses. Some of the latest silk nnd
satin gowns have sllk-llnc-d sash ends of vel
vet , finished around the udgo with a frill of
tulle or lace.
Graceful fur accessories arc of sable or
mink tails hanging from a narrow galleon of
bronze , Jet , or Iridescent beads to bo uaed
pendant from the yoke or back of the col
larette , nnd finishing the tabs of Russian
pelerines.
Gold braid and gold and silver threads are
a telling feature of dress decoration thin sea-
ton , and boleros and entire waists are made
of n cloth of gold. Military braid Is em
ployed for belts , with a gold clasp In rococo
designs. Gold effects In any form are much
sought after.
The now skirts are works of art In the per
fection of fit which Is required to bring them
up to date ; the godcts arc still there , on a
much smaller scale , and are very carefully
fastened with elastic to keep them In place.
The fullness Is drawn well to the baclc with
very little flare at the side , and thu lit over
the hips should be pcifcct.
Ruches at the bottom of the skirts and
bolero effects for the bodlco nro the bpccial
features of evening dress Just at the moment ,
nnd ono pretty model shown Is carried out In
white moire , with a vest of white chiffon ,
and turquolso blue velvet pipings around the
Jacket and used to form loops for the tur-
quolBO buttons. A ruchu df white chiffon
trims the skirt.
A gay French gown of Russian red cloth
with a short coat-basque opens on a vest of
black Persian lamb fur. The fronts of the
open basque nro decorated with arabesque designs -
signs ot military braid. Wldo flat cpaulota
of the cloth , bordered with the braid , fall
over the close coat sleeves In place of cither
puff or gathered frill. The seven-gored skirt
Is lined with black moire trimmed with braid
and fur , and Is four and one-half yards wide.
Although largo Dlrcctolro muffs are In high
vogue this season , they are not fashionable
to the exclusion of the smaller , moro grace
ful and compact styles. They are certainly
not carried for the comfort and warmth they
Impart , for they are clumsy In shape , and the
proportionate space allowed for the hands In
these hugo muffs Is so great that It lets In
Instead of keeping uut the cold , as do the
little linger coslvs.
With thu exception of whlto and of yellow
In nil Its beautiful tints , satin appears to bu
somewhat neglected by high-class modistes
for watered silk , richly figured brocade , peau
do sc'lo ' nnd very lustrous and elegant quail-
tlca of Muscovlto silk. When tinted satins
nra used on han-Uomo ovenlnt : irowns they ,
as a rule , compose the effective foundation
for veiling and draperies of chiffon , mous-
Hollno do solo , net and embroidered tulle or
crcpo llsse.
Figaro Jackets , zouaves and boleros of
over/ possible shape and sort , In velvet , fur ,
satin , corded silk brocade and rich faconno
fabrics , remain a.conaplcuous feature of win
ter bodices , and -where , the actual Jacket does
not appear Its effect U Htlmulatod by trim
ming. Thcsa snug , umart llttlo garments uru
found to bo moro bccfimlng to a rather full
tlguro than a'ny sort of round waist , but the
jacket effect must not bo carried to tbo back
of tbo bodlco.
Uray , In Ita most extreme drab tint , Is a
fadhlonablo color for cloth gowna this eca-
eon , but It should bo chosen warily , an It
Is wry trying to any but the pink and whlto
: omplexlon. But thlx Is the neagon for w < xir >
Ing unbecoming colors which are often
fuvorlto out'i zlnco the elaborate dccoratl&uu
V
In the bodice quite overshadow nny 111
offoctd which the main color would othtrwlm'
produce. o It really dors not mnllor < * n
much what the- color nt the frown In , for It Is
ll'.f color effects In the combination of trim
ming that count.
On pome of the rorsngra ot brld.it toilet *
the neck Is rounded tow , the space thus left
n licit In with nlilrrcil OP pleated moimsclnlno
de Kilo or n full Russian gimp of embroid
ered wlln. the sleeve-pufffl nintrhliiK thl *
KUliilpo. Whrn a hUlt clrae antln bmllco H
preferred , It has n btittlcmentrd collarbaml
of the satin , with plentliiRs of vrry r.eh l.iro
tfhowlng between the stiffened pearl trimmed
tabs Itelow this a dnlnty Jabot of the same
lace , enught hero and thcic with Jeweled
pint , drnps the front of tlio cornngc from
threat to waist.
I'Vinlnliii .Vole * .
Sarah Chalmers of tlu > Crofrralnn.it
Woman's league expects soon to appear be
fore the public as a reader of negro dialect.
Sara Ilernhai'dt clalma to have refuse 1
$200,000 for n short scries ot performance ! )
In Germany. Yet she U said to be far from
wealthy.
The new b'.nliop ot London's \vlfo Is In
many lespccto a moro famous pr-rsonngo In
English literary upper circles than her ills-
tlngulshcd husband. Her histories ot Kiuiifo
nnd England have given her high etandlng
no an author.
Mrs. E. Mllw , who died nt llrnnkvlllo. 1'a. .
scM'ral days ago , had wonderful power over
animals , and readily made pets of wild
deer , bears , catamounts , foxes , snakes nnd
llslirs. She wra n native of Ireland , and
c.unc to this country In 1S44.
Newnham girls all the world over will bo
mourning the prospective retirement of Mlns
Helen Gladstone from her poHtlon In connec
tion with thecollege. . Miss Gladstone has
been working over fifteen yenra at Cam
bridge , and leaves so as to be able to upend
moro time with her parenta In their old
age.
age.At
At the Schubert festival to bo given In
Vienna In commemoration of the * composer's
100th birthday , ono of the performers will bo
MUa Caroline OlMslei'-Scliubcrt ot London , a
planlsto. She Is n grandnlcco of Schubert ,
nnd has ; the name ot being an excellent Inter
preter of her Illustrious relative's music.
Mrs. Emma Forsythe , an American woman ,
who "owns 150(000 ( acres of land In the South
Sea Islands , Li a most energetic woman , em
ploying several hundred natives , as well ni
many Europeans , on her plantation. She
was left a widow nt IS. with scarcely enough
money to exist , but she has since amaescd
a largo fortune.
Mrs. Frances Edgcrton of San Franclaco
Is the latest aspirant to histrionic honors.
She wan married , about thlrtyflvc ycara ngo ,
to the d bt'ngulshcd orator and lawyer , Henry
Edgcrton , but subsequently was divorced from
htm. She 13 still handsome and quite well
off , so It Is not personal need that caunc.T
her to turn her fr.co toward the drama as n
vocation.
Mrs. Grover Cleveland , with several of her
classmates , la to make a present ot a beauti
ful stained glcss window to Wells college ,
where she was formerly a student. The
shape Is a half circle. Mrs. Cleveland , as
sisted by John Lafargc , linn designed the
window , selecting us the main feature a large
figure cf a young woman. She wljhes the
window to bo a memorial of herself.
Princess LI the wife of LI Hung Chang.
Is CO years old , but Is said to look twenty
years younger. H'cr ' feet have been fnsh-
icncd to such smallncss that she cannot walk ,
and has to bo carried about In a Chair c
magnificent one , of course yet she owns
1,000 pairs of shoes. Her husband's wealth
enables her to have nearly 1,000 silk dreitnes ,
and she can select COO from fur garments In
winter.
licston Is the Mecca of clubs and club
women , and scarcely a club meets without
a distinguished gurat or cs-saylst , for It Is
u fashion of the eastern clubs to hear fre
quently from outsiders and scholars on their
topics. Miss Agnes Rippllcr , the distin
guished essayist. Is now the lion of the hour
In Boston , and has been entertained by the
Haverhlll , Somervllle , Dorchester , Lowell
and other clubs.
A unique Christmas gift was one cent to
Mrs. Lllllo Dcvc-rcux Elakc president cf the
New York Woman Suffrage association , by
the veteran woman suffrage worker , Mro.
Elizabeth Caily Stanton. It was a little Hat
tin ball , covered with sage green silk on one
side , and a delicate lavender on the other.
U was filled with pins , and , the accompany
ing letter said , stuffed with the maker's own
soft , whlto hair.
Miss Anna Dorsey. pioneer of Catholic llt-
crnturo In tills country , baa Just died at her
homo In Washington city , at the age of S3
years. She was the daughter of Rev.
William McKenney , a chaplain In the United
States navy" . She was educated In George
town ami years ago became n convert to
Catholicism , devoting much of her time to
Catholic literature. Her talents In that di
rection were acknowledged by a personal
If tier from Pope Plua IX nnd from Pope Leo
XIII.
A New York writer gives the following
descrlptloi of a costume worn by Mrs. Wil
liam C. Whitney at the opera : "Tho waist
seemed to bo literally covered with diamonds
nnd emeralds. A tiara of diamonds and
emeralds rested on her coiffure. About her
neck was a eolld band of diamonds , from
which wcro suspended pendants of diamonds
mends , falling over her slionldera. In the
center of the corsage was a diamond star ,
on either sldo wcro other diamond clustcrn.
and suspended from the right shoulder and
falling over the waist was a single string
of diamonds of Immense size. I iloii't re
member If she wore anything else. "
A JUHUSAI.KM II.VCCIIAXTE ;
New York Sun.
Queen of Shebn. :
Much In thy pralso I've heard , but now
I .seo
Unit of thy wisdom was not told to me.
Solomon :
I wish to call your majesty's nttentlon
To something hero that 1ms received much
mention.
The figure of this craven cherub hero
IH not. you see , qulto uuilllcd to cnch ear.
AVIII the uncovered throat , pray tell the
Kxcltc uiulno emotion In our youth ?
The city of the Philistine * Is mochlnir
UccntiBQ our scribes and elders find It
shocking- .
Queen of Shcba :
Whatever nhocks Is shocking ; yet to mo
Congenial Is this Imago Unit I see.
With Its fnlr throat , untrnmmeled , bare
nnd free.
Solomon ( ns If Inspired ) ;
Queen of the South , take It awny with
thcc.
Imperial Har ! Regenerator
will nmko the hulr banutl-
fuli glossy and natural , no
'n'ttor ' how a t r < i a k y
IILKAOIIEI ) or GRAY U
limy bo.
It N clonn , odorless , Inst-
IIIR. H tlnci not contain
an atom of poisonous miit-
tor. Iluths do not alftict It ,
iiolthur deed uurlliiK or
orlinplmr. Incomparabhi
for I'm ' linARDon account
of Its durability and clean-
llllt-bS.
No. 1. Black ,
No. 2. Dark
Brown.
No. 3 , Medium
Brown ,
No.t , Chestnut
No. r . Light
Chestnut ,
No. n. Uold
Blonde ,
No. T. Ash
Bloiido ,
Prlcn tl.r > 0nmmoo.
Kolo Miuiuf ictuiurx nnd Pntnntecs :
Imperial Uhoinlciil Mfg.Oo. , Uiti Fifth iivcnuo.
Now York ,
[ n Onmha wild by
ALL imUaUldTd AND IIAIUDRGbSKRS.
BUY YOUR KODAKS
And all kinds of
PHOTO SUPPLIES
T HE ROBT , DEMPSTER GO ,
1215 Farnam St. , Omaha.
Tlio only t'XclUNlvu I'holiiuraplilu
HouNe lu Oinuliu uud
Mine. Yale's
Great Remedies.
WHV EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM
No one will Attempt to dlppute the fnct thnt It
li tn n woniAn'H iidvnnlnRe to lie good looking :
therefore It Is nn tit-Riiii ncccvlty Hint every ,
woman mnl.i'R It n pmetlce to tnkc cnru of licr-
Felf nnd lue rtcry menu * known to enhance her
( ill ) f Ion I iieiffcllon , nml tlicivby relnln her eolf-
rehncct niut tinpplnc-M.
The niluincril mclhoili ot lirnutlfylDR to sue-
ccHfully miploftl by Mine. Ynlo rnnlile every
woman In t ic Iniul to leKUlnto lier own beauty
niut Increase her ROOI ! louki every il.iy. When
Mine. Yule Hist m.iilo her oircnincK rlie illil not
nth nny one to u c them until flic licrelf ( mil
( tone KO , She illil not make n elutiii for them
until she lierrelf Imd lu-come beautiful from tliclr
mc. nml now , nt the KKV of 4. , nml lifter nMnir
her own remcilleB for tuintjMwo > enrn , pile la
celebrated na the inrnt beautiful \\omiiti living ,
Is a Rraiul itenionMr.itlon of what her remedies
will ilo ; therefore tills Is \\l\y e\ery woman In
the Inml rlinuM u c Mme. Ynlu'w H'meilleo , nml
life plenty of them , nnd grow beautiful niut l > e-
como happy.
'
YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST.
Ynle's Skin Food ( for wilnlctrri
: sizes . . . (1.50 nnd J3.CO n Jnr
Ynlc'H Complexion Crenm . t.OO n jnr
Ynlc'H Complexion lllcacli . J.OO a bottle
Ynlc'n Kxeels-lor Hnlr Tonic . 1. CO n bottle
Ynlo'H Ilnlr ilenm-er . 1.00 a bottle
Yale'H I i rreekl.i ( fur freckles ) . 1.00 n liottle
Yale's Special I/tlonfor ( blackheads ) l.CO n bottle
Ynlo's Special Ointment ,
( for pimple * ami fkln cllso.lrc * ) . . . . 1.00 n Jnr
Yale. ' Haml Wlillener . 1.00 n bottle
Yale's race 1'owtler 60
Yale's Complexion Heap 602r
Yale's iil\lr : nC llrniity ( fkln tonic ) . 1.00 n bottle
Yales'B I-'iitlllzer ( cures comtlpntlon ) 1.K1 n battle
Ynle'n llkxnl nml Liver Tonic . 1.00 n bottle
Yale's Krultenra.
( for female ucnkncf ) . 1.00 n bottle
.Sold liy All DriiKulMlN anil
Mme. Yale's "Guide to Beauty. '
\VI1I be mailed free upon application.
me. M. Yule. Temple of II emit } Chicago
For fnle by I1OSTON STOIII2 UllUO DKl'T. ,
Omnhn , Neb.
$200.00 Reward
in GOLD
Well Worth Trying For
In the word COMPANION arc nine letter * .
You nre Binarl enough to innKu fourteen wonts ,
we feel sure , iiml If you i ! you will recelio a
icunnl. Do nol ure n letter IIKMO tlnuu than
It uccurs in the wonl COMPANION" . Un- only
KnKlUh uonls. The HoUFeliolil 1'iilillflilnir ami
Printing Co. , proprietors of the IloUFchobl Com
panion , will pay (50,00 In KoM to tile perron able
to make tbo longest list of HliBl'i li words from
the letters In the word COMPANION : J30.00 for
tlip second lonpeat ; S20.CO for the third ; 110.00
cnch for the next ll\e , unit 15.00 each for the
next ten longest lists. The ubove rewardn nro
Klven free nnd eolcly for the purpnro of nttrnct-
Ing nttentlon to our hnnilsome laillcs' magazine ,
T1II3 HOlISHlIOl.t ) COMPANION , containing
pages , Ilnely Illustrntcil. IxiteKt 1'biihlors , arti
cles on Klorlcultuie , Cycling , Cookeiy , General
Ilourehold Hints , etc. , etorles by the beet ftnml-
anl aiithorH. nnd having many ntlier IntcrcrtltiK
and utlnictUc feature * ; published numthly ,
pi Ice to cents per annum , making It the lowest
priced high cla magazine In America. In
onlcr to enter the contest It Is necessary for
yon to pend , with your lift of words , POUIt *
TiHN : 2-cent Ftamps , or 23 cents In silver. In re
turn for which we will mull > uu nt once our re
ceipt for half jenr'H cubFcrlptlon , poetpnld , to
the IIOUSUIIOM ) COMPANION. In addition
ti > the above prizes we will give to every ono
rending us n list of fourteen or mure words n
handHomc silver rouvenlr fpoon. IJ tB should
be sent us soon us possible , ami not later than
February & , 1&97 , BO that the names of miccclxful
conteetantft may be published In the Kebiuary
IFMJC of the JIOUSIIIIOI.l ) COMPANION. Wo
refer you to any Mercantile Agency as to our
btandlng , Address all llets of vvouls to the
lIotiMfliolil I'ulillHliliiK- 1'rlntliiK Co. ,
nil lllrcfkcr .SI. , \ < MV York ( Jlly.
N. II. The Household Companion can be 'ind ot
nil newudenlers. Price , C cents per copy.
MORPHINE HAW
PAIHUSSU i , FERMANEHTLY CURED
PAINLESS © PSBM'I ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered In 1 8G8. "THERIAKI" Book Frcu ,
Office 31 2 , 70 Monroe Street , rillfUIft HI
P.O. Drawer 6B3. UlllAUU , ILL.
\Vo tend the French Itcinrdr
CAUTHOO fror. ( D > U.O.I ) ) u.l .
IcculRuarantfetlmtCAi.Tiios will
K TOP Dlichnrcci nnd KmUnloni ,
C'UIIK hpormutcrrhrn. Vurlcoccle
and IlliHTOIlU lx t Vlaur.
Use it and faytf'satisfied.
VON MOHL CO. , 332 B ,
Hoi. Amrrlr&a iti > th Clnrln ttl. Ohio.
PAIROtZJ
INDUSTRIES
Y purchnsiiiK goods iimcto
nt tin ; following Nebras
ka factories. Ir you can *
not liiul what yon want ,
communicate with the
manufacturers ns to
w h n t dealers handle
their goods.
1I1C.1I1S OMAHA 1IAU CO.
Manufacturers of all KlnJa of cotton and bur-
Up bag' , cotton flour aacki and tvvlno a ipeo-
laiiy. CH-MC-C18 H. lltli Et. _
OMAHA IJllKWINU ASSOCIATION.
Car load ililnmcnli made In our own refn .
eralor cars , lliuo Illtbon , Kllle Uxoort. Vlenn *
Export and Family export delivered to all i > utu
ot tlij city.
fc
Iron mill II rang ( < 'ou intern.
Manufacture ! * nnd Jabbcri ot Machinery. Uin.
< rnl repairing a DcclaliV. Ml. 1WJ and 1MJ
Jicluon street , Omaha , Ned.
1MJUSTUIAI * 1IIO.V WOIlICb.
Manufacturing and repairing of all Itlnfc of
machinery , engine * , pumiw. elevator * , prtntlnc
prcuet , hangeri , limning ana ujuplings. nil and
f OJ Howard tit. . Omaha.
_
I'AXTON & VIlSltl'INU IKON WOitlCS.
Manufacturer * of Arelillecnlral Iran WorK.
General Foundry. Alachlul and Illuckamlir work.
KnKlnetr * und Contractor ! for Klie I'roof Dulld-
Irnri. OMIce and workil U. I' . Ily , tnd Bo.
17th ilreet , Omahi.
NK3HT WATCH , FinE HKIIVICB.
The only perfect prelection to propirty. Exam
ine 't. lleit thing on eartli , Iteduco * laiurunc *
rate * . Hot Douglas lrett.
IJHIRT FACTORIES.
T H. 1SVANS N15UUASICA BIIIH'B
C03II-ANV.
Czcluilv * ciutom iblrt Ullora. Utl 1
