s O rATTADATLY lyRTC : SnNDAY. JANTTAHY 10. 1807. 11
" - *
*
i H
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
M
STHIIT aow.\s.
A TltMVllilrrliiir Army of Colnr nnil
Ht > lr _ Tlic Triumph of Ilrnlil.
NIJW YORK , Jan. 7. It Is already full
time , now the old year la Bafcly 'over , to
begin not only discussion , but active prepa
ration for tailor nulls , with which to open
thoaprliiK of 1897. If you consult any tailor
At the moment , you will lie npt to flnd him
Rlngulnrly Intelligent on the ( mention of
cloth costumes ; for ns long as a month
ngo , to the very last detail , every point , for
the walking dresses for the new year , was
talked over and decided upon. Above all
things will the man dressmaker demsnd that
no garment can leave his workrooms unless
It bo most extensively and elaborately
SPOUTING COSTUMR.
f
braided. Ho Is insistent and eloquent on
this point , for braiding Is not what It used
to be. An Infinite variety of silk cords have
been Introduccd/and the patterns Into which
they are wreathed and twisted defy enumera
tion In numbers.
Suffice It to eay that the braid Is brought
Into prominence by the fact of always ap
plying It In black on some rich or daringly
brilliant color , and by boldly copying , for
Us patterns , the handsomoU. Persian and
what are , in tailor parlance , called Bour
bon designs. The whole effort is to get
away from the past severity of simplicity
that has governed the making of these
dresses , and to give them moro the air of
rich and gay costumes.
HAKMONY IN VIOLET AND HLACK.
To very fully Illustrate how far this now
movement Is going , the first picture Is
given of a very splendid creation worn at
a Waldorf musical by Mrs. Jack Aster.
This represents , above all things , a new
color , n most lovely bluish purple , called
technically bishop's violet. On the front
of coat and skirt and lower halves of
sleeves of the smooth-finished spring
weight of camel's hair , a largo Persian
figure is cut out and patched with cream
wool twill. Where the edges of cloth
meet each other fine black silk braiding
is done in looplngs. and then the twill's
face Is well covered with ornamentation
in yet finer and more Intricate braiding.
Where the most -delleato tendrils of the
vlnn-liko figure run off , black silk cm-
broidery Is set In and under the first collar
of violet camel's hair , a second of twill
folds out over the bust , Its points and
edges graced with braiding. At least
three dickeys and neck-bands accompanied
this suit ono of whlto satin , sparkling
V " * with Jet headings ; another of violet velvet ,
decorated with a double row of close-set ,
small cut steel buckles , and a third of
black satin.
In such a gown as this Its wearer Is
suitably dressed for any occasion whatso
ever , short of an evening function , though ,
in reality , she appears In the conventional
coat and skirt , which , by the way , are
lined cither with figured taffeta or the
skirt In black silk , the coat with whlto
natln.
CIIKATIONS.
uui in incir vuiiani oiions at auuing 10 uiu
gaiety of natlont , the tailor has not stopped
short of eomo wondrous and , to hear of them ,
Klurjnlugly vivid combinations. For example ,
STUDY IN nitAing.
the very smartrat of eprlm ; walking stilU
has Juat been done In a tihado uC clear , leaf-
ereen cloth , with a vest of true turnuoltv
blue eatln , and will bo tieen very shortly
when worn by Mm. William Whitney. Of
courie , the green In largely toned down
'with vhadona of gray among the folds , and
then tan Inevitable ) braiding conuu In to
further dlgulfy ; but the braiding goal xclu >
L
slvcly on the front panel of the aklrt , taking
the form of a framework ; of a rococo panel ,
or mirror , that certainly commends Itself to
the eye.
This Is ficon on many a * new skirt , but It
no pmicl or Inrgo Jlgure effect Is adopted ,
what la designated nn a rcse-ajid-dart design
cmbclltah.cn the bottom of the petticoat. It
Is noteworthy that not one In fifty skirts
goes out Innocent of an hem decoration
and that there arc two new and admirable
braids ono a brond , eatln-finlthcd band ,
which , when applied , looks like a wide oat In
piping , and another , rough , half silk , halt
wool weave , known as porcupine soutache.
Dcforo iultc ] leaving the question of skirts ,
It In well to warn the watchful that they nro
almost as full as ever , but that the wealth
of material comes In behind. The front
brcadthn arc not gored to flare , and , with
the now spring goods , only n stiff quality
of grass-cloth lining Is laid In , high behind ,
but below the kncca In front. Not a solitary
tailor skirt , unless It la meant for golfing
or cycling , shows front pockets , and the
sensible walking length Is adhered to , In
splto of the fact that trains are threatening
to disturb our long-enjoyed comfort.
SEVERE TAILOR STYLES.
It Is pleasant to record that all through
the early spring , silk shirt waists , or satin
or corduroy ones , for that matter , will be
worn with coats , niul that coats are going
to lot fall their skirt well down over the hip
Joint. The good-stylo coat Is double-
breasted , but the buttons concealed , while
the new basque-mado suits are every ono
draped , A tight , plain basque signifies a
last year's gown , and of Infinite popularity
Is the double box-pleat drapery , falling from
the neck to just over the point of the bust.
In place of this double diminishing pleats
sometimes appear , and this arrangement has
greatly encroached on the long-loved rcvcr.
It Is still In evidence , but how reduced In
size , and no longer overlaid with satin and
lace and resplendent with buttons !
Excepting where a whole shirt In worn , no
white line serves to freshen the stufT dress.
Linen dlckcya and collars arc off somewhere
on furlough , and the tnllbf-drcssed woman
used a straight , neat , narrow turnover band
of bright satin , or she lets , according to
latest advices , a' perfect doll baby of a
geranium-satin quilling prep out all
around the circle of her high , dark-stuff
neckband' Her sleeves nro set , with thico
box pleats , Into the top of her nrm-holj , and
ct the wrist. They are Invariably finished In
ono of three ways with braided Hues , a
flaring drop cuff , clear to her knuckles , or a
short bell turn-back from her hand. But
tons are used ever so sparingly , and those
employed not largo nor very conspicuous ,
while later on , when It grows too wnvm to
wear n corduroy shirt , with a double-breasted
cloth coat , a horde of Irresistibly attractive
llttlo bolero Jackets will bo down upon us.
They promise to bo braided , not to meet by
three Inches over the bust , and to exploit
small-pointed rovers. Hut this Is nil In an
ticipation of distant March and Easter
finery.
Familiar fabrics among the fresh bolta on
the tailor's tables are blue and black mohair
serges , face cloth In pheasant brown , and
plnc-grccn camel's hair. These two laat are
now shades. And not a novelty , but almost
the most popular goods for traveling suits ,
are mack-Watch , Gordon , hunting , Stuart
and Fife tartans. Their sober strlptngs are
enhanced by the gayest of plaid linings , and
the voyagers toward southern California ! ! or
Canadian climes wear , with coats and skirts
of them , high-buttoned , bright-satin waist
coats that have their own collars and flaunt
ing plaid silk neckties.
SPORTING COSTUMES.
There Is a department of the tailor's show
rooms , separate from all others , and where
READV FOR GOLF.
women nre already crowding , for oven
moro Importance than omo'a calling and
street suit , la the wherewithal to be clothed
on the blcyclo and golf links. Now fashion
uud comfort have undoubtedly had a mighty
struggle for supremacy In the sporting Held ,
and It'a delightful to eay neither has quite
coroo ofT the winner. Conccsulons have been
wrung from both ; for If golf skirts are atlll
short and waists still easy , the fabric of the
incut alluring ones Is tartan , or checked
tweed In mixed brown and blue , and a deal
of braiding Is use'd , also a modicum of
leather trimming. In the extreme of fashion ,
and yet a perfect outfit for a woman who
wants everything slmplo nnd easy , Is the
mixed green , yellow and dark-blue plaid
drcsra sketched. The aklrt Is kilted behind ,
whllo the straight panel front Is outlined
In triple rows of alternating dark green and
blue and clear yellow soutache. Similar Unco
of Goutacho run along the hem of the kilts ,
and on the left hip. In front , the sklrt'a
placket , hole buttons. At the right side ,
under the lines of braid , a pocket Is act hi
anil the body part 1s cut on the pattern of
a shirtwaist. At the left , however , under
the trlplo lines of braid crossing the bust ,
small buttons and holts are found , and the
fullness Is held at the waist by a dark-bluo
leather belt and buckle , varnished In the
eamo color. Those two decorative caps of
green leather upon the shouldero , extending
llko a collar across the back , are * however ,
meant for eomotblng moro than ornament ,
serving as a protection from the chafing
strap of a caddy bag or capo , when they
nro carried to and from the now BUOW-
covered links , whcro red halls are used. A
whlto linen collar and black satin tlo trims
the nc k suitably , and -Intervals , on the
links , of waiting for a stroke , a short cape
of hunting scarlet cloth , lined with heavy
; . > i.ld flannel. Is drawn up over the uhouldero
by leather straps and caught In hooks at
clttfcr dido of the belt.
ON THE BICYCLE. I
Blcyclo sulta are brown and a refined , en
nobled grade of the homely brown , horse
cloth la the goods lallora ore making them
of for the women , who alternately use- the
same suits for wheeling in the acadumies
arid skating In the morning In Indoor rinks.
Hone-cloth Is rough of cmrfuce and its un-
llncd skirt Is heavily stitched about the
bottom , the front i > lacket hole reinforced
by a broad baud of brown leather , and It Is
worn with a shirtwaist of brown game
keeper's corduroy.
The very slim women have adopted the
most becoming of military outfits , In com
bination of blue lady's cloth skirts and
black broadcloth jackets , or skirts of
Prussian blue army cloth and black serge
coat * . To ilmuUU the braiding that deco
rates a soldier's trousers , there runs down ,
from hip to hem , n line of straight or fan
tastic black silk carding. Looped frogs
arc laid across the front of the short , close-
fitting Jacket , that Is held In at the belt
by a black leather belt. The sleeve , cuff
nnd the collar nro braided , whllo over the
shoulders fit epaulette straps of black
braid , which fall Into n shower of pretty
dangles In the fullness of the sleeve tops.
Thcso coats and skirts are all lined with
silk , the simile of that scarlet flannel which
appears In soldiers' cloaks , and the trim
llttlo hats nro still black Alpines. They
nro of black camel's hair felt , braided round
10 water. AOOUI a year ago ino young woman
had a narrow escape from freezing to
death on the open prairie. It came about
In this way : Hearing that ono of her
father's horses that had been missing for
some time- had been seen on the Cheycnno
river , she saddled the best horse in the
corral and set out upon an eighty-mile rldo
after the stray broncho. She left the homo
ranch early in the morning and rode gaily
nway over the hills and "draws" that were
covered with withered but nutritious alkali
grass , past bunches of horses and cattle
that looked up In surprise * at the sight at a
human being , and along trails made by
Indians long before the white ranchmen had
dared to Invade their territory.
Everything passed off pleasantly until
nearly sundown , when suddenly the heavens
became overcast with ominous gray clouds.
A few largo and feathery flakes of snow
began to fall. Then the flakes became
smaller and fell thicker and faster. Dark
ness quickly sot In. The trail became cov
ered with snow and indistinguishable In the
darkness. The perplexed girl swerved her
horse first ono way and then another , and
at last stopped short. She was lost. Alone
on the pralrlo , miles nnd miles from any
habitation and a Dakqta blizzard srccplng
down from the northwest the outlook was
certainly gloomy enough.
As Bessie eat there I'Jio recalled how a
few years before Sidney Barnes was found
only 'half ' a mile from the ranch with the
brldlo rein.of his horse 6till clutched In his
frozen band. She thought , too , ofmany
other tales of death and suffering occa
sioned by storms on thrso same hills , and
with a shudder she clinched her teeth and
urged her horse forward Into the snow1 and
darkness. How long1 fho wandered about
In the cold and storm eho never knew , but
at last her horse- pricked up Its ears ,
snuffed the air and , taking the bit between
his teeth , fairly flew along the road that was
utterly Invisible to his wonderingrider. .
When ho stopped , the dim outline of a log
ranch , with Its corrals and Aheds , loomed up
up before her , Besslo shouted at the top
of her voice , but receiving no reply , sac
dismounted , tofsed the reins over a fencepost -
post and tried tbo door. It was not locked
and swung open at her touch. Again the
the girl called loudly , but no response came
from the darknesa within. After listening
a moment , Dciele cautiously entered and
began feeling about for matches. Sflo fum
bled around In the dark for some time
without success , but at laat a lucky move
sent a box tumbling- a t-helf and scat
tered Its contents over the floor.
A rapid examination convinced her that
the place was evidently an ordinary bach
elor's camp and Its proprietor had been gone.
only a short time , but who or where ho wan
she had not the remotest Idea. However , It
was not tlmo to stand on ceremony , so DCS.
slo lit a lamp , kindled a tire In the otovo
and then led her liorao to the shed. After
supplying him with an ample amount of hay
she returned to Iho house. The flro was
burning brightly. The girl cooked and ate
supptr from provisions found In the cup
board and then sat down by tbo flro to dry
her clothing and wait for daylight.
The hours rolled slowly by until about 3
o'clock In the morning , when auddonly a
heavy atop sounded outaldo the door. Bessie
started &ad trembled in spite of herself ,
Eho never knew what fenr was In handling
stock , but this woa something different , nnd ,
convlng as It did , ns' a climax to her nrtvcn-
tures of the night , would temU4.o nppnll the
stoutest heart. The door swung open and
Bcsslo gave an exclamation t 'dbllght ns she
recognized the familiar fAiltlrcs of Mlku
Fccny , the son of ono of ' ( heir nearest
neighbors. ' ' " '
Ilc.islo found that her1 horsd'bio ' ! carried her
to Jacteon & Hayes' ranch. 'fiKJCeep ' creek ,
and when daylight appeared : ' Kctny escorted
her to her destination oH' ' the Cheycnno
river , where she secured the'missing horse
and returned to Leon wltrvmit further mis
hap. , , ' , ' (
A AVOMAX C1V1I * 14XQIXKUU.
f a m
Achieve * SIICCPBH lit n Xovel Profcu-
MOII for llor S < i * .
Marian S. 1'arkor of New-.Vprk enjoys the
unique distinction of being ; tl\o \ : only practi
cal woman civil engineer In , this country.
She Is n slight , young girl , apparently about
20 years of age , nnd has a womanly , gra
cious manner that makes her very charm
ing. Miss Parker seems quite unconscious
of the fnct that her peculiar position as the
ono woman In her profession makes her In-
"neally , there Isn't anything to tell , " she
SHOPPING TOILETS.
the brim's edge , nnd banded with a wreath
of braiding applied to the crown Itself.
To the left side a flashing gilt , cut-steel
or bright enameled buckle Is fixed , and
straight up from It stands a very full osprey
of mixed black and white , or many tall
loops of stiffly-wired black braid.
NINA PITCH.
DAKOTA'S D.VHIXC !
Hill or I.CHII nn l Her Mfc
oil IIiirNvliuctt.
One of the most celebrated of the now fa
mous , enterprising nnd Intrepid Dakota girls ,
who reside in the great cattle counjry west
of the Missouri river , is Miss Bcsale Hill , the
postmaster at Leon , Stanley county. Miss
liCKslo not only attends to her duties ns rep
resentative of Undo Sam In that wild region ,
but does a great deal of the riding after her
father's stock , pulls cattle out of the mlro
by means of a rope attached to the horn of
her saddle , brands calves , breaks bronchco ,
nnd Is considered ono -of the best "cow
hands" between the Missouri river and the
Black Hills.
Mlsa Hill uses the regulation cowboy sad
dle , and weuru divided skirts , sombrero and
gauntlet gloves. She Is nn expert with a
lariat and a crack shot with rifle or six-
shooter. Ono of her favorite diversions Is
to lasso a wild Texas steer , saddle and bridle
him , mount upon bis back and turn htm
locao upon the prairie. She claims that
thcso animals are qulto as easily subdued
ns the average broncho. This daring young
woman Is 1C years of age , tall and handsome ,
with unusually pleasant manners , and no
ono from casual observation would Imagine
for a moment that she pcsscsjcs so much
nerve and almost reckless courage.
Her parents formerly resided In Blunt ,
S. D. , but nearly seven years ago , when n
portion of the great Sioux reservation was
opened to settlement , they removed to
Stanley county , which Is embraced In the
ceded lands , and engaged In cattle raising.
Since then Miss Bcsslo's most Intimate
friends have been cowboys and Indians ,
and she has learned to ride , shoot and
throw a lariat as naturally as a duck takes
replied to an Inquiry. "I made up my mind
to bo a civil engineer , studied for It , and
nm now working hard for , .promotion. . It
was the most natural thingIn the world , for
I Just followed my Inclination. I wouldn't
do anything else. " . , , ,
"At first , " she continued,1 , , ' ! thought to
study achltecture , for Pjaus , and designs
have always had a great attractlon for mo.
Then , as I became- moro ana more Inter
ested in mathematics , I .realized . that some
thing Involving that 'brarich ' of science
would bo moro to my llkltife. Civil engi
neering was just the thing , so at 1C I began
earnest preparation. " " , J *
Very probably Miss Parker inherits 'her '
liking for problems nnll rtll1 such mathe
matical things from her fatller , who Is a
prominent patent attorne'y .Itv'Dotrolt , Mich.
In the offlcc where shi' Is dally engaged
Mlai Parker has her dcdk ; ' 'table and high
MISS MARIAN S. PAIIKER.
stool , just as the other assistants do. For
the past year and a half eho has been em
ployed on the Astor hotel , now In process of
construction. She has worked on all partfl
of the structure , detailing and designing ,
and al.io making the shop drawings at times.
These lost are the plans Ser the work
men to follow , and must bo absolutely cor
rect , oven to the smallest fraction of an
Inch. These have to bo approved and
checked , every calculation toeing gone over
the second tlmo by an accurate and careful
civil engineer. Miss Parker has sometimes
been entrusted with this duty. The work
Is of a dllllciilt nature , and Involves great
responsibility on the part of' whoever Is
given It to do. Estimating the amount of
material needed Is another of the things
t'ho Is sometimes called upon to calculate.
At present Mlra Parker la engaged and
absorbed in work on the "Mills Model
Tenonwnts. " Kor eight and sometimes
nine , hours a day , her brain Is buiiy with
confusing problems on strength nnd resist
ance of material , and a bewildering com
plexity of glrders _ , trusses , bolts , screws
and rivets. Jus ( to know what thcso things
nre would'drlvoa woman wlth'an "unmatho-
matlcal brain" wcllnlgb 'crazy.
And so scientific education 1/s helping
women to "flnd their places , " as Huxley
put It. Miss Marian Parker has , through
natural inclination nnd perslotent hard work
combined , found hers. As a pioneer In anew
now field , women look to her to prove her
ability , and disprove blj-tlmo theories
against tbo limitations of 'her ' eex. (
The Secret of I'roxe.rvjjijr . a Youthful ,
riliiut KHrurc. (
"Scaoons often oomoiand'go .without any
material change In the cut of a corset , " said
the corseticro , "but nofBo-iho seasoa of ' 97.
This year every model "of 'dorsot has had to
undergo a radical change * to'mako ' It fall In
line with the nov ; fanhloni in figures , for
figures have as distinct'amode as bonnets ,
though it perhaps changes less frequently
nnd obviously , I can'treay whether Calve
Is responsible for It or mot ; but certain It
is that a very low bust. oJporfectly straight
line down the front , withnno curving In at
the waist , and an unfettered' springiness over
Iho hlrs are what Is today ddmanded of every
well-made woman.
, ( u
"No , It Is not truQ 'iUAt the smartest
women have their corapta , made to order ;
that is to say , If ono may Judge from tbo
Vanderbllts , Shepherds , Sloanes and Whit-
noys , for they all buy their corsets rtiady
made , as I happen to very well know , except
perhaps 'In special caseiiwhere ono wants a
ellk or salln coraet to match a petticoat ,
which , by the way , li quite the fad just now.
But unless one's flguro Is very ) much out of
drawing- there Is no moro occasion for hav
ing a corset made to order than one's gloves.
But It must bo fitted with exactly the aamo
care and nicety as a glove. Kvory number
of every kind of. Ijlgh-grado corset comes
now In nt least twenty different models ,
which ore supposed to embrace every possible
variety of normal figure ; , the Mgh and low
bust , the small and largo hip , tbo lone and
Khort waist , etc.
PURCHASING STAYS.
"No experienced woman nowadays ap
preaches a corset counter with the hope
of completing her purchnso at ono trip.
She selects her particular make , number ,
nnd specifics the quality , nnd then makes
nn appointment for a fitting , as she Is sure
to find every hour engaged for ft day or
two In advance. At the appointed tlmo
she Is received by an expert niter , equipped
with twenty or more different corsets of
the same model , laced and ready to try on.
The first pitting on of a corset , you know ,
counts for ns much as the Initial adjust
ment of a glove. The various models are
then tried , until nn absolutely perfect fit
Is discovered ; nnd should It chnnco that
none of them cxnctly stilts the figure , nltcr-
ntlons nro made , free of charge- , that ensure
that perfect moulded effect so dear to the
feminine heart. With the really smart
trade , however , this ordeal Is rarely gone
through with moro than twice a year , for
I cannot now recall n client who purchases
a single corset nt n time. They usually
buy three at least , nnd keep them all going ,
too ; for frequent changing not only keeps
the shape nnd contour of the corset Intnct ,
hut goes n long way toward preserving
the girlish curves nnd springy outlines of
the figure , The corset should be changed
for dinner , Just as much as the gown ;
and ns for evening wear , qulto a different
cut must bo worn , though I nm bound to
say that , with the lowered bust of the
latest street corset It Is not Impossible to
mnko It do duty nlso for evening. The
best dressmakers , you know , require qutto
a different corset for fitting a tnllor gown
over than for the fitting rf softer goods.
"My mlvlco as to the very beet method
of eorscttlng a woman on the least pofi.ilbio
outlay ? That Is easily given. In the first
place , let every woman understand that there
are no materials In the world better for cor
sets than first-class coutlllo and pure whnle-
bonclien ; she wears the proper model In
this combination , she Is to nil Intents nnd
purposes n perfectly corseted woman , and
unless she has porno eccentricity of figure
that must bo pampered to , she can secure
such a model for about JG. Oh ! I know the
pretty brocades nnd satlno with the dainty
lace trimmings arc alluring to the eye , but
they really signify nothing so far gaining
nnd keeping a well-set-up , trim flguro la
concerned. Ono could not make a greater
mistake than to put all her money Into ono
such ctcganco for special occasions , nnd wear
cheap , Ill-fitting corsets the rest of the time.
No. if you are limited In Income , stick to
the good coutlllc corset , and turn It over to
the housemaid the moment It becomes In
the least t'trotched , strained or discolored.
The secret of keeping your figure frcah nnd
young Is never to allow yourself to go about
In nn old , broken-down corset ; economize
anywhere else , rather than to limit youroelf
to two or three a year. Six corsets , Includ
ing neglige , blcyclo nnd evening wear , ought
however , to carry ono very comfortably
through a twelvemonth.
COHSKTS FOR EXTREME SIZES.
"Oh , yes , our very best work has to bo
done in the Interests of the very lean and
very fat , " continued Mine , la Corsetlere ,
In answer to a quostton , "nnd with the aid
of the light French stuffing for the one , and
clastic silk for the other , wo are able to
turn out some very creditable works of art
In the way of figures ; though , I must say ,
In these days of athletes , wo have less oc
casion to pad than formerly. However , for
those'who were pretty well shrunken be
fore sporting days for women began , there
are thcso little , lightweight pads of finest
mirlnit linlr Minf nnmo frnm Pnil nlronilv
fashioned to fill In an unfortunate gap or
scoop In hip , shoulder blade or bust. By
slipping these artificial bits of anatomy In
side the corset one may bo made to present
as delicately curved and softly rounded an
outline as though Mother Nature had been
prodigal Instead of chary in her gifts.
"And as for our 'fat friend , ' Just take a
glance at these elastic stays that fit , for nil
the world , like the skin Itself. The day has
happily gene by for trying to stem an , avalanche -
lancho of flesh with heavy cloth , and steels
and bones an stiff as a board. Why , the
weight and thickness of such a corset adds
In Itself an Inch or two to the girth , to say
nothing of the horrible discomfort to the
wearer ! No ; even the 'fine woman' may now
rejoice in the lltheness and freedom of a
thin , light-weight corset of coullllo and
whalebone , built out In all projecting areas
with this Rulthcl clastic , woven like otock-
Inet , and as firm as sail cloth. "
SHU TIPS IIEIl OKAY K13DOIIA.
The \IMV AVomnii SuliitcM Miin-FiiHliIon
lit Chli'iiuro.
The new woman who has adopted the very
latest wrinkle In newness has como to town ,
relatra the Chicago Chronicle. She was
abroad on State street yesterday. She was
dressed In a blazer suit of steel gray , wore
thick-poled chocs and heavy gloves and car
ried an umbrella done up In a leather cover
ing. Her face was Intelligent nnd very fair
to look upon. Certain line * of grtmness
were dlscerpable , however , but they were
probably the effect of the severe style of
dressing the lialr , which was combed high
on the head , and bore no trace of crinkle
wave or puff.
But thcro wcro many women on State
street who were dressed Just that way , and
she would probably have passed In the crowd
without attracting a reconil look from nny-
ono had fho not -met a couple of friends.
They raised their hats. The gray-robed
beauty limited upon them serenely , then
gracefully lifted her neatly gloved hand and
tipped her gray fedora with as much grace
as If she had been to the manner born. The
fluffy llttlo creature who was with her
blushed and shrank back In dismay.
" .My gracious ! sno cneu. wnai in me
world did you do that for ? What'll they
think ? "
"Think ? Why they won't think any
thing , " was the cool rejoinder. "They'll
get used to It after awhile. In my opinion ,
saluting by raising the hat Is a courtesy
that thould not bo confined to men alone.
Women are entitled to the privilege Just as
much as the opposite sex. I know several
girls who have already adopted the custom ,
and before another month Is ended you'll
forget to blush and cry out In remonstrance
against the habit. Of course , with the out
landish hcadge-ar usually worn raising the
hat Is an Impossibility , and right hero Js
where the utility of the fedora comes In.
With that It is the casle.it thing In the
world. "
"It Isn't necessary to lift the hat clear off
the head. Just stick the pins through the
front. Instead of the back , nnd then tip It
gently from behind. It mokes mo feel na If
I nm really somebody. "
I'llHllllMl0 < CN.
Brutus bro\yn Is a ricn , tawny ahado of
that color , found in cloth , velvet and cordu
roy fabrics.
Ono of the now dress materials Is silk
goultree , which Is thin silk crinkled In a
variety of patterns.
Some of the now evening gowns have a
sash which is simply two long ends with
out loop or bows , sewn in ut tbo belt at the
back.
Prelate purple , in combination with re
seda green and tan , Is attempted by stylish
women with pink nnd cream complexions.
The bronze shoe , prettily decorated with a
beaded butterfly , whlclUias a largo cabochon
for the body , la a favorite for evening wear.
Faced cloth remains a great favorite this
winter , and some of the most attractive Im
ported tailor gowns are made of this ma-
terlal.-
Many of ( ho winter street coats and capes
have added collarettca made of very delicate
textiles In marked contrast with the heavy
wrap Itself ,
A welcome fashion for those who cannot
afford the muff chain Is a band of black
velvet ribbon , a little lets than an Inch wide ,
fastened at each sldo with a tiny buckle.
Neck ruffa of lace , fur and feathers arc a
conspicuous part of millinery this season ,
and they are vastly becoming as well aci
necessary to preserve the proportions with
the largo hats ,
Elastic corsets are a new Invention for re
ducing superfluous adlposu tissue , and pro
ducing a long slim waist without any harm
ful results. A French doctor Is authority for
the statement that they are effective.
Evening hats display very light , bright
colors , such as rcsc , pink , cerise , pinkish
mauve , and orange , and cream lace , white
oatrl'-h tips , and rhlncstono ornaments are
the chief decoration with the Jeweled em
broidered crowns.
Flower decorations nro very popular this
season , especially for the guuzo and tulle
gowns , so favored by young- women , Rucheo
of the thin material trim the aklrts aii'l
clusters of tiny pink roscn nro caught In
with them at Intervals all around.
Many of the newest Parisian evening tol-
loUi ahow the corsages helped with billows
and wavcu of accordion-plated mouuscllno
do cole , clillfon , or India graze. Double and
trlplo rows of It frame the edges of the lorv
neck , and form the short full elccvrs.
A black velvet capo lined with old-rose
satin has an Immense ruche formed of lace ,
net , old-rose , ribbon , an.l Jet ornnmcntn.
A black velvet Jacket has a similar ruche
showing a magpie mixture of coatly whlto
Ince , fur nnd accordion-pleated mousse-
line dc sole.
The old superstition against opals Is slowly
but surely passing nway , and thcso lovely
Bony ! , with their cver-chnnglng colors nnd
opalescent effects , nra In the front rank
of popularity among fashionablewomen. .
The opal has nn advantage , too , over all
the other gciun , as It cannot be Imitated.
A now nnd peculiar shade of Flemish red
la favored by French designers , and Is com
bined with Jet and chamois yellow , and even
with brown nnd gold. It Is eoiucthlng
llko palo petunia , but It Is n trying color
thnt has for years been despised by nil
save Italian women of both high and low
degree.
Among other luxurious garments arc tight
fitting sealskin Jackets , with box fronts , the
Jackets merely silk-lined to make them Ict-a
heavy , with additional warmth Imparted by
deep-pointed cape collars of the same fur
falling over the sealskin sleeves thnt fit
snugly on the lower arm nnd nre made
without cuffs.
The tnllor costumes for utility purposes-
shopping , trnvcllng , walking , etc. are made
with skirts t nt Just clear the ground nil
around , clfV-r In gored shape or In modi-
fled clrcului1 Wi'in. Soft but rough surfaced
boucle fabrics , heather-mixed silk and wool
tweeds , wldc-wnlo diagonals , English serges ,
nnd cheviots , usually In black with n color ,
nro used for these suits.
Napoleon blue , a silvery tint of thnt color
much llko gcndnrmo blue. Is ono of the sen-
son's favored colors , nnd mink , otter and
chinchilla furs arc variously used to trim
gowns of this particular color , which Is said
to bo that of the emperor's great coat ,
though there are disagreeable people who In
sist that this coat was only n very ordinary
pepper-and-salt that no really tasteful
woman would wear.
A stylish winter costume of Russian
green faced cloth has a Jacket bodice fin
ished with wide rovers Joined to n eapo col
lar made of whlto satin overlaid with n
delleato arabesque embroidery of Iridescent
beads. The rovers nnd collar nro edged
with mink fur , nnd gauntlet cuffs match
this decoration. The gored skirt Is bor
dered with the fur. Elegant coats of creamy
tan Melton nro lined with pale-blue or
cream satin brocade , nnd trimmed with
sable or other fur.
The diversity and extravagance of the but
tons worn this season Illustrate ono develop
ment of fashion not altogether n revival of
old-tlmo styles. Buttons were used for or
nament In the fourteenth century , but noth
ing llko the present variety was over Known
before. Coral buttons are perhaps the latest
novelty , and nro chnrmlng on a blnsk velvet
gown. Then there nro cameo buttons nnd all
sorts of Imitation gems set with rhlnestoncs ,
besides the real article , In which fu v women
can Indulge.
A majority of the new neck trimmings nro
made to simulate n square neck or very
broad , deep yoke , bordered with lace or
pleated chiffon frills , and these , worn with a
high-nocked bodice , can be varied Indef
initely. A strap of ribbon passing over the
eimiiiiinra fnrma n. fthnri hrnm on ea h side.
and these straps are Joined by a ribbon that
crosses the figure horizontally. Rosettes of
ribbon conceal the Joining , and thua the
Pompadour collarette Is formed , and Inser
tions of ribbon and lace are Added to the
yoke part nnd frills of chiffon or lace to Its
edge. <
KiMllllllllC
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett expects
soon to return to her home In Washington.
Mrs. Kruger , wife of the Transvaal presi
dent , Is soon to have a carriage , for the
first time.
Princess Henry or Pics * has Issued an ap
peal to all English women married to Ger
mans , living In Germany , to contribute
money toward a celebration In honor of the
fiftieth year of Queen Victoria's reign.
Mrs. Ernest Curtlus , widow of Prof. Cur-
tlus the famous German archaeologist , has
presented a life sized portrait of her hus
band to Yale university , which already owr.o
his valuable library.
The Duchess d'Orloans nnd her husband
have Just received n present from the gen
erous Due d'Atimalo of Paris , France. The
gift conelsts of what Is known ns the \orlc
house , at Twickenham , England.
Queca Victoria has conferred the decora
tion of the Royal Red Cross upon Miss
Sarah Elizabeth Orman , of the Army Nurs
ing service , for her faithful services to the
wounded nt Cairo during recent operations
In the Soudan.
Miss Charlotte Dodd has Just won her
fifty-sixth tennis trophy at a woman's club
In London. She recently won the "All Eng
land Championship Wimbledon. " Unon 9
years of ago she and her sister won doubles
In the northern championship at Manchester.
Queen 'Victoria's coronation ! ring Is never
out of her flight , and Is worn by her every
evening. It Is a band of gold containing
a cross of rubles surrounded by white bril
liants. A coronation ring is supposed to
syrabollzo the wedding of the sovereign with
the nation.
The tragic death of the Baroness Em
manuel Leonlno. nco Rothschild , while stag
hunting , has cast her many frlenda Into
mournlnc. Her horse frightened at a herd of
wild boars and unseated Her. sno iracturcu
her skull and did not regain consciousness.
She leaves two small children nnd a devoted
husband.
Not everybody known that La Lolo Fuller
was an actress before she was a dancer. She
was a soubrette and nn all-around comedienne -
dienno for many years before ehe made the
discovery that gave her name and fame. She
still recites charmingly and sings very
nicely , nnd for encores she gives llttlo bits
of pantomime nnd Imitations of celcbrltlen
like Yvctto Gullbert.
"Catherine Colo" of Now Orleans was the
first woman reporter on the southern press.
Sixteen years ago Martha Fields her real
name went to work , and by hard , unsparing
labor has paved the way for the easy poal-
tlons held by women on the southern Jour
nals. She has done many things she went
to Ireland and reported politics ; has been
staff correspondent at Washington and has
walked across England to write up ther coun
try.
try.Mrs.
Mrs. Crolghton , the wlfo of the new
bishop of London , Is the daughter of a
Russian merchant. She hna nlwiiys been
Interested In women's work and women's
education. Witness her presidency of tbo
recent national conference , and theSe ear
lier struggles at Oxford In collaboration
with Mrs. Humphry Ward and Mrs. Max
Mullen , which resulted In the Oxford as
sociation for the Education of Women. She
la a hUtorlan , like her husband.
It Is commonly reported that Sara Bcrn-
hardt's mother was a Berlin Jewess , but
such Is not the case. Sara's mother wen
an Amsterdam Jewess , named cither Klngs-
borgcn or Magu the family was a largo
ono and some of the members took the
latter name because of their profession of
showmen. There nro dozens of them allvo
In Holland today. Sara's mother wont to
Paris and there met Bcrnhardt. Ho wen a
Swiss on Dutch skilled artlaan , who felt In
love with the accomplished and clever rider ,
and married her.
Ono of the moat charitable women In Lon
don , as well as the richest , la undoubtedly
the old Baronc&3 Rurdctt-Coutts. and al
though t'lio la pretty well .on toward the won
derful ago of four-scoro years and ten , nho
still has sufficient of the milk of human kind
ness stored within her heart to think nf
others' t > orrpun among her own plenty , She
has sent a letter to moat of the women's
papers In London last week , that glvca some
Idea of her work and her alms. On behalf of
the Dct'tltnto Children's Dinner society emu
ventures to hope that there will bo many
who wilt respond to the earn cat petition for
speedy aid to enable the dining-rooms to tu
kept open.
Mica Kate Whcelock , the well known whist
teacher , began her succosslonal profcoslonal
career ten or twelve yearn ago. At flrat ehe
taught a class for nothing , but she wan
teen Htruclc by the Idea that nho had a moncy-
maltliu ; occupation at her hand , and began
charging a regular fee for her'Instructions.
Ever ulncu then she has had all oho could
do In the way of conducting cloven , has
traveled from pla'.o to place , wherever cla w
have been organized , and has lately Intro ,
ducod an Invention In the shape of a stereop-
tlcon , by means of which ho la able to teach
lar o clanwa to better advantage. She do-
clarcn that , In nplto of her long prejudice to
the contrary , women may and do play $ ] il < ) >
qulto it. well men.
Mine , Yale's
Great Remedies ,
WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM
No one will attempt to depute ( lie fnct tlmt It
Is to n woman's nilvnntiiKc to tip Rtnul looltlimi
therefore It l nn unsrn : nccc-ilty tlmt v\try
\\nm.Mi iniiKr * It n pructlcp to tnkc cnro of her-
pelf ml u > every incann known to enhance licr
| ihjMa\l perfection , ntul thereby retain her nclt-
rrfiiccl niul Impplncfu.
TIio mlvnueeil nicthcul.i of 1 > cnuttf > lnR eo cue- '
cCMfully employed by Mine. Ynlo cnnblp every ,
\\onmn In the Innil to rcKUlnto her own beauty ,
niul incii-ato her ROOJ looks every day. When'
Mine. Ynlo llrtt mmlo her iticox cries Flic rtlil not
nrk.nny ono to lire them until flic licri-clf hntl
done i < o. Bho dM not miiko n claim for them
until i > hp hcrfclf lnul become beautiful from their
utv. anil now , nt the nge nf n , niul nfter lining
her own remcillei for twenty-two years , nho In
relcbnttctt us the most beautiful woman ItvltiR ,
Is a Krniut demonstration of wlint her remedies
will do ; therefore thin la why every woman In
the laiul flKiul.l ima Mme. Ynle'n remedies , anil
use plenty of them , nml grow bcnutlful and bo.
como happy. '
YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST.
Ynle's Skin rood ( for wrinkles )
2 nlteit Jl.M nml J3 CO n Jnr
Ynle'n Complexion Cream 1.00 n Jnr
Ynle's Complexion llleueh 5.00 n bottla
Ynle'n i\cclolor Hair Tonic. . . . . . . . . 1.00 n bottlu
Ynle'n Hair Cleanser 1.00 n bottla
Ynlo'R I.a Kreckln ( for freckled ) l.M n bottla ,
Ynle'n Special Ixitlontfor blackheads ) 1.00 n bottla
Ynlo's Special Ointment ,
( for plmplcn nml fklii illjeanen ) , . . , 1.00 n Jar
Vale' II a ml Whltener 1.00 n bottltt
Ynlo'n Fnco 1'owder .f > 0
Yale's Complexion Honp - '
Ynle'H Kllxlr of llenuty ( kln tonic ) . 1.00 it liottl
Ynlei's KcitllUcr ( eureii con tlpntlon ) 1.50 n bottle
Ynle'H 111oo.l . nml I/lvcr Tonic 1.00 n bottla
Ynle's Krultctirn. ,
( for female nenknesi ) 1.00 n liottla
Kiilil by All DriiKKlxlN mill Ilfiilcrn.
Mme. Yale's "Guide to Beauty. '
Will be mailed free upon application. AiMre ; >
me. M. Yule. Tcntplo of It inuty. ChlcnRo
Kor enle by BOSTON STOUH DllUO DKPT.J
Omaha , Neb.
And all kinds of
PHOTO SUPPLIES
A'l'
THE ROBT , DEMPSTER GO *
1215 Farnptn St. , Omaha. {
The only e.ioltiNlvP riiotuurniililo
Supply ItniiNC In Oinuliii nniiulirnNUit ,
OR MORPHINE HABIT.
PAINUSSIY ft PERMANENTLY CURED
. n.
PAINLESS ® PBUfil ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY. '
Discovered In t OC8. "THERIAKI" Book Frco.
Office 312 , 70 Monroe Street , rillPArtft III
P. 0. Drawer GB3. UlltAUU , 11 < 1 < .
Who 'neglects his business
often lliulH himself In 11 Und
cnmlltlnn. Even If ht < ncs-
t bumllo
blinsolf up uood
when , guliu to
Mini from biiilnoss hu IImis ,
himself SUhFERINO
WITH A COLD
Which makes him unfit for buelnecfl ; In '
fnct he IB perfectly mixer-able. Why not
Ki't rlil of It ? It only costs a Quarter , nnd
vnuilll lirt vniirsnlf ntrnln.
DID you isvijii TKV Tiinsif
ANTI-CORYZA TABLETS
'M HONPN fur - , " > CeiitN.
All Lending Druggists.
I The Perfume of Violets
I The purity of the Illy , the nlow of tbo rose ,
I and the flush of llcbo combine in POZZOM'B
R Mondrcus Powder.
IME INDUSTRIES
, . V > Y purchasing goods made
\ \ at the following Ncbras-
\ * * * - * U ka factories. If you can
not find what you want , ;
communicate with the
t ? > & inanufacttircrs its to
\v h a t dealers handle
their goods. - - *
BAGS. BURLAP AND TWINE. / , ,
IIK.MIS OMAHA HAG CO. ) .
ifanuracture.1 ' ,1 all klnji of cotton and bur *
lap baga. cotton flour sacki and twins a cpeot
laity. 6H-MG-61S S. llth El. If
BREWERIES. S
OMAHA IIUISWINU ASSOCIATION.// !
Car loud ihlpmenU maclu In our own rerril4
trator care , lime IllLbon , Ullle Cxoorl. Vlent *
Uxporl and Family Uxport delivered to all P&.III
of the city.
IRON WORKS.
DAVIS A : COWGILL , 1UO.V 1VOU1CJ. J ,
Iron niul llr.ini t.'oiiuilurn. t
Manufacturer * nnd Jobbers of Machinery. OenV
< rnl repairing a pccmiiv. Ml , icol and. IWJ
Jickson itrcec , Gmahu , N D ,
IMHJ.STUJAI. IIIO.V WOUKS. '
ifonufucturlr.R and repairing of all kind * ob
machinery , englnei , pump * , vlevuturii. iinnUn
prcuei , liangfr , rmfiinc ana coupllriyi. Hit in
110 ] Ilow/ircl HI. , Omaha ,
I'AXTON .t VIISIILI.VO IIIO.V WOltKtf.
Uanufuclurcri of Architectural Irsn Work ; '
General roundly. Alachlut nnd Illackumllr worlcj
Knglnccrs and Contractor * for Klre I'roof Dulld-
Ingi. Ofllc.0 and worki : U , I' . Jty. nd Bo.
17th itreet , Omnha. i
NIQHT WATCH , FIIIE BEIIVKJE.
A3IUUIUAJV IJIHTIUCT THLIJUUAI'llI
The only perfect protection to propirty. UxamV
fno 'I. ' licit thing on earth , Iteduua loturanci
r t . isot nouclai lmt.
BI1IHT FACroiUEB.
J. II. HVANS-MJIIHAHICA
COtllMJVV.
Cxcluilvi cuitoin ihlrt tallora , UU rirwu J