10 THE OMAHA BATLY UBE : SUNDAY , l)13C113M'm3H 20 , 1800.
i/ t1'i /
FASHION IITTIU.
* Triumph iif I'ri'iii-li lilenn.l
.Mailer * of Uri-HN.
I'AI'.IS , Dee. IS. The search for fashlo
Ideas niitnil ( ( . < of Franco lias not had a trc
inomlous success.
It was expected that the Russian fete
would lirlm ; sonic Slavic Influence In. bu
they hnvo ilono almost nothing of the son
On the contrary , these fetes resulted In
tremendous extra draught on the speclnlllc
of Paris. The empress brought with lie
gowns tliat linil boon cent her from her
nnd left an order behind her for more , whll
licr Indlus In waiting dressed In I'ulersbur ;
travesties of I'arls were rnther dowdy. A
11 matter of fart. Inspiration from RUSH !
must como not from the.i3 , but from tbj
peasants , to whom anil because I'arls re
fil.AOK SATIN AMD DAIUC BLUR VELVET ,
mains forever aa far off as the moon , nnd
just what these peasants have yet furnished
of Id.-as Is chronicled In Its due place bulo\v.
The milliners went to England for n In
spiration , as lias been related before , nnd
imported the "shepherdess" hat rolled up on
both sides. When 1 last wrote Ibis hut was
11 rage with the milliners. It Is thu painful
duty of the chronicler to tell how It hna
fltaycd pitilessly In the shops with scarce on
airing except on thu occasl&nal stranger In
the gates that waa early cajoled. Parisians
are wearing anything and everything but
"shepherde ! scs. " And this Is what It Is to
launch a mode against prevailing taste.
The truth is French design plants Itself
fiqunroly on 4ho philosophy of lines , and It
f.ills to neo how either England or Russia
tan glvo it on thl * hood any IICVVB. At tlmcH
It looks curiously on other people's dress and
now and then assimilates an Idea , but for
the most part It goes serenely Its way.
And Blnco It first Invented hats this ahapo
has been twlco tried nnd dropped , for In-
Htend of being n frame this line brushes the
frtco at a Hying tangent , giving exactly the
outline of horns.
AFTERNOON GOWNS.
Hut If the Parisian cannot assimilate a
thrphordewi hat she can give points on the
making and wearing of nn nfternon gown.
It Is her specialty. She goes out very little
PAIUS SKATING COSTUMR.
before lunch and goes * out not at all If It
fains , and therefore she uai no great need
of a titllor-mado surge. If she wants tueh
a gown she gee . as did the empress of Rus
sia the other work , to England to buy It.
Her day proper begin * In the afternoon and
Jier gown Itrof a sort that answer * for re
ceptions , matinees or skating at the club ,
though , according to the occasion , tt may bo
linplc or rich ,
Fur such gowns ( wo Ideas divide favor this
year , One U the gown with bodice like the
eklrt , to which It nddcd an extra wrap for
the street , to the other la the dre with
skirt- and Jacket alike , the jacket being a
corf of elaborated bodice and essential part
of the gown. Herofollows , some models of
each :
A gre n velvet gown trimmed with black
moire nstrnltan , worn for skating nt tlic
Palais de Ulace , Is thus made. The skirt
has a three-Inch fnclng of the fur , with the
upper edge cut In n waved Hue , beaded by
rows of narrow soutache braid following the
same line. The bodice has the velvet laid OH
smooth and covered on the lower part
with n wide bolt of black satin. A short
bolero falling open In front Is thus made ,
The bolero lining Is covered with the fur
except for a space around the edges , Includ
ing the arrnholes , nnd this Is covered with
the velvet. The fur Is cut wlch a waved edge
and Fewed down on the velvet , and then the
velvet ! s covered with line * of routache ,
to match the skirt. The effect Is extremely
Hrh. Slrcves of the velvet , with the wrists
open , trimmed to match , nnd neck band of
the velvet , with the same trimming , and n
piping of rose velvet on the lop.
A handf.omo gown Is of dark blue velvet
and black entln. It Is made on a princess
lining. The velvet covert ) the skirt and HIP
waist up to the height of a deep corselet nnd
the upper part , of the- waist la covered with
plaited black satin , forming a blouse that
passes undri the velvet. The edge of the
corselet rounds up high under the arms , seas
as to touch the armhole and connect with
the top drapery of the sleeves , which Is of
velvet In loops. The long clrne sleeve Is ot
satin. The effect of this gown may be given
with the walnt nnd skirt separate and thus
will bo easier to make.
FETCHING PATTERNS.
A gown of violet and black wool In honey
comb pattern U trimmed with black sutln
pipings and violet velvet. The eklrt has a
cluster of pipings running down the middle
of HID front breadth. The bodice , which lies
a hlnui : < front , n llttlo boufTiint , has the ncol :
cut down aquaro In front and the space filled
with whltn openwork embroidery over violet.
From thence down to the belt run a cluster
of pipings continuing the line of the skirt :
A yoke effect Is given with tiie violet velvet
that IB made to run across the front , falling
In a deep point on each side , over the should-
orii 'with a point on the slcevra , nnd acrceo
the back with a single point in the middle.
Some wool gowns have the bodice trimmer )
with ruffles or rivhes of white muni in and
Valenciennes lace. It la a. novel combination
that Rounds bizarre , hut may bo a success.
Those rudles are usually laid under the'edge
of plaits. Thus If the upper half of the
bidlce Is In plaits a rufllo is set under each ,
the whole giving the effect of a yoke , and
the rulllia nro mingled also In the tops ot
the sleeves , to Include the sleeves as fashion
demand ; ! In thu width of the ohoulders.
Among the bodices A good many are plain
fitted. The material taken bins Is stretched
smooth over the lining behind , mid In the
front it may be bias also , or It may be
drawn down with ll.it plaiU. No seams
are visible. The lower part In covered with
u wide belt that may be a sash ribbon tied
behind with long ends. Such Bzshcs , In
fancy ribbon , part velvet , are worn with
wool afternoon gowns. It seems probable
that thcflo plain bodices mean a drawing up
of the corset strings that have been so
comfortably relaxed during the triumph of
the blouse.
THE HLOUSE.
nut the blouse has not by any means
finished Its days , nnd may yet prevail over
this routing attempt. Iho plain bodice
Is still but a novelty , and the bouffant front
Is yet the general wear.
Como now to the dreai with skirt and
jacket alike. Cloth Is In great favor for
thr o and black , violet and dark blue seem
to bo the coluio preferred. The form of
Jacket liked beat by chic young women Is
the loose ctt reaching only a llttlo below
the belt. Equally elegant and more quiet
In taste Is the fitted coat , with front open
over IliQ vest , the vest draped with a jabot
on a Ions bow of whits lace bordered with
fur. All jackets are made with a high
collar to stand or turn down.
A , blue cloth skating costume Is trimmed
with astrakan , plaited black moussellno
do solo nilllc.H and jetted galoon as fol
lows : On the bottom of the skirt Is a
binding of the fur , on which falls a mous-
Ecllno ruflle headed by the galoon , and
this trimming is repeated nearly half way
up the skirt. The loose jacket Is open
down each aide , the front over a panel
set under , equally loose , and this panel Is
covered with the moussellno nilllos , running
up nnd down , alternating with the galoon ,
The edges of the jacket , each side , is bound
with fur. The collar Is lined with fur ,
ami Inside it , attached to the panel of the
front , la a collar band of the mousscline
and jet.
The attention of the reader Is called
to this gown. It Is one of the most exqui
site designs made In Paris this year ,
A gown of violet cloth has a facing of
sable on the bottom und n lining of sable
In the high standing collar. The llttlo
jacket falls very simply In plaits. Such
a jacket has Iho plaits lined with white
nr colored satin , nnd an 'extra wadded flat
lining Inside. Another violet gown has a
lilted velvet jacket , opening over n vest ,
nnd the whole vest Is covered by a Jabot
of cream lace edged with sable ,
lllaclc cloth gowna are trimmed with astra-
ken and soutache braid or satin pipings.
Some of them have reverse and collar faced
with colored moire Bilk. Then a blouse Is
woru underneath of the same color. The
sleeves of ell thcso coata are rather clcte
to the arm and rcaomblo sown sleeves , but
are not too closu to prevent a blouse alcove
going Inside.
In the category of cheaper gowna suited
to skating or the street U a aklrt of brown
velveteen. The coat la doublo-
brcaatcd and fastened with two largo Hat
ornamented buttuis. Also pretty gowns nro
undo of cheviot , barred with lines of another
color In boucle weave. Thus dark green
barred with cream or with red , black barred
with red , etc. These , If trimmed hnvo pip-
Ings of sutlu.
FUH JACKETS.
Parisian * are disheartened by the cold sum
mer Jiiot past , and expect almost suporetl-
tlously that thu winter will bo severe , which
explains perhaps the rage for fur coats. The
old-time nealskln jackets were nil ot a fa-
tern , but no longer Is the cut ot a fur coat
conventionally fixed. It la anything you llko
and coplw all the fantasies going. Also
some- novel embellishments nro allowed. I
have juat seen nn aatrakan jacket made for
a leading uctrcta tlut baa the revcra and
collar faced with apple green moire Bilk.
Over the silk Is laid a coarse too-colored
netting , and on the netting ate appllqued
chetilllo flowers In black.
In the manner of using furs faihlonabls
dress might study the Rutalan with profit.
They wear tlio fur Invldo thu garment and not
outuldc. aud tbuti it renren for warmth and
not far liavv. It la an arrangement of by
fur greater elegance. for illustration such
a garnont lies under my pen. Coming the
oll'cr day from the Gorman frontiers down
to Paris there was In my compartment a
young Russian girl with her French K V-
crncw. She was wearing a cloik , n sort of
nlntor , down to her hesln , of ro.l cloth , lined
throughout with some- tort of yhaggy yellow-
Ich brown fur. Over the ulster waa n capo
of the cloth that covered the nrma nnd
above. This wt > a round collar faced with
the fur , that when turned up covered not
only her ears , but nearly her head. It wns
cuperb ; also no doubt It was costly , which
does not hinder It from teaching a uwful
lc'jjn. The same thing Is to bo learned
from the poaoant. Everybody knows ithal the
moujlk turns his rkln blouse fur side in for
winter.
A certain number ot blouse Jackets , "tnou-
jlks , " have been made , of printed velvet nnd
of matelnssc. trimmed with fur. It Is only
an nttempt for novelty. The blouse la full
nnd loose and extends some seven Indies
or so below the belt , with the edge cut Ir
regularly or slashed and a narrow fur border - ,
dor running nil the way round. It it double-
yellowish brown nnd those for afternoon
dress are pale gray or white , but white
nnd gray gloves are nlso worn In the morn
ing nnd with tnllor-mnde ijowns. They
are of dressed lld : with open wrists , fas
tened with four large pearl buttons. EvenIng -
Ing gloves are cither whtto or what Is
called "champagne. " a pale yellow. For
these nlso dressed kid Is preferred.
Hlnck stockings are still practically the
only wear , but the bicycle brought In
Scotch plaids nnd other patterns In color.
The Paris journals have raised a discus
sion ns to the adoption of these last for
general use. This talk has had ns yet no
efl'ect.
As to shoes Parisians wcnr low tics nil
the winter through , nnd very commonly
with no gnltcra at nil. liultoiiod boots
seem to have had their day. The bicycle
has drawn attention to hlgh-lnccd shoes
nnd may perhaps bring them back Into
general USP. Iir this connection It mnj
be remarked that tun shoes seemed last
summer to have lost some- favor with fash
ion. At the French benches It was oh-
\ & $ > rd&&ti'
MIVIIC BLOUSE AND GOWN OF VELVET AND ASTRAKHAN.
breasted and has one or two , not more , largo
buttons enamelled nr set with mock gems.
The collar turns up high. This Is worn with
any sort of skirt and forms part ot an elab
orate toilet. This Is ns near to a Russian
Idea ns anything that has appeared.
DETAILS OF DUES3 ,
The fashion In Jewels docs not change
greatly from season to season , and opan.no
nnd translucent stones continue In high'fa
vor. Opals , torquolscs and pearls are the
mode. A pearl dog collar Is still the necklace - ,
lace preferred.
Watches remain very small. A now design
has a catto of gold chiselled In relief nud Is
oxidized red or green or else has the pat
tern picked out with enamels. The pin that
fastens It 1s In a design to match" . Instead
of the pin some women wear a long chain
of flni ) links set with pearls. A new design
is n chatelaine to hold It that fastens to a
gold belt buckle , nnd nil three pieced nro
designed to match In chiselled gold.
HrooclitH art"till in the fin in of a round
disc , nnd they also are made In an openwork
j'.i'-iirT of clil-illcd K"ll- I'hrj Mil'ijcet of
mlnl.iluic broochts has chunked from Louis
XV to cliMite heads and to > > lU.iuc.s. ; ! with
deeper nnd richer rcilors.
A new design In bracelets Is of fire gold
wire woven like cloth , the band an inch whb ,
VIOLET AND HLAC1C WOOL , .
with n Icey pattern running through In a
contrasting weave.
Hair orn&nent * for evcnlpg are very light
In character an bcflu the simple coiffure In
vogue. A wniall balanced ornament la
placed In front of the knot of hair , and a
comb th.it may be jewelled Is placid at tbe
back. Tiaras are not worn ,
Fana chungo as little ns jcwnlry. Those
nioat u cd In I'arls are of ostrich feathers
or ilmplo epatiRled gauze , of which the
sticks may bo as cn tly ns ono likes. In
the way of novelty arc some made ot eagle's
feathers , but as n rule elegance chooses a
fan that willnot , draw attention , The di
minutive ones that tickled the crowd lost
year ha\e no vogue except among the ec
centric.
Gloves for wear la the morning are ot
served thnt many women have turned to
black , white the great chic was for white.
White lies with blcck stockings was the
supreme ulcggnce for bicycle nnd all other
dress. This is n word in advance tor next
year. ADA CON12.
CIIIIISTJIAS Til 13Id I-'IXHHY.
Knilliint llllH of Color fur Dei
orntion.
Santa Clans means to have things pretty
tmteh his own way this season , and Is con
stantly sending along loads of new spanglc-i ,
Iridescences , glittering combinations , shim
mering favors , radiant bits of light and color
lueitly for the decoration of his well be
loved Christmas tree. Of course , Ii2 couldn't
leave behind the glorloi'.s old balls , the fcs-
toon.i of tinsel and the llttlo Jap lanterns
that have done such good service thcso many j
years , but what ho hat ) nddcd to them In
daz/.lliig devices Isn't to bo named within
the limits of one ohort story. Kancy a red
ball , just u drop of glowing light enshrined
In a crown shnped design of glistening tin
sel ; then there are star. ? each point of a
separate bright color , all brought Into re
lief by a brilliant setting ; big gold walnuts ,
too. on a branch with gold leaves ; gor-
groiw allvcr tsoslr.s and llcry comctn with
glittering tails. Hut after all , aren't the
tny ( gold bird cages each containing a little
red bird on Its perch the most enticing ?
Or perhaps thu miniature Venetian and
Klorentlno Innterns , exact reproductions In
different colored ccllullod and dull gilt of
their meat nrtlstle originate , each holding ,
too , Its little candle. And then there
are chubby gilt ciiplds with silver wings nnd
gold llPh , beautiful red cherries , luscious
bunches of purple grapes , Imitation sprlgj of
holly , and an cndlesa number of roniblna-
tlons of paper figured with bright colored
tlr.smo paper , celluloid and tlnii ? ! ; a rosy llttlo
cherub , for Instance , reposing on a red and
green background nnd rejoicing In a halo
nnd pcttlcoitB : of sparkling Kllvcr. Hut tlmro
must be omo dead white , too , nnd this li
D-jpplled by n few of the doirept little ani
mals In frosted , cotton batten. An elephant
for only 8 coiitsi l.i a most perfectly formed ,
attractive IIUlp.h < ; aat. In fact , ono could
deck out a itreb.ly.tho motit fatoiimtlng man
ner fern merefn/le. , ! / many of the prettiest
of these ornaments , being only 4 cents apiece ,
and few costlifK moro than $1 n dozen ,
When ono. cfpoa to favor * , their nnmo Is
lesion ; all new , tmUiuo and adapted to dif
ferent characterlptlcs. There are little paper
opera glaiveu'to bR filled with sweets for the
matinee girl ; tyiyi'jtop huts In all colors , the
lining being a lltt o bag that will draw up ;
llttlo sailor cajta arranged In the wme man
ner , clumpagljb MI Ice , paper cups and
cancers , pipes'Hlfeo ' mills , nil sorts and
kinds of musical' ' Instruments , und all to bo
tilled with one's favorite bon bon. Indeed ,
Ingenuity eeenV td have reached lie utmost
limit In fiupplyirfg things new , etrango nnd
wonderful to % hMo n pretty and amusing
Christmas tree1 that can coma within the
reach of the mJalilondor purac.
DUKSS HHFOini AT CI2UAII KAM.S.
One Hiinilrril Normal Sotinnl Olrln
Now Wrnr Clic Sclmol SuH.
More than 100 of the COO young women who
are attending the Iowa State Normal school
have declared for dresa reform. They bnvo
not been content with declaring for It ; they
have begun It. The common sense and good
Judgment which they have shewn In the matter -
ter ought to disarm criticism and set a con
tagious example.
The traditional power of the press has not
been active In the line of drew ) reform , says
the N'ow York Sun. That to to say , It has
been decidedly active , but nan devoted Itself
to wholesale- ridicule ot ( ho entire Bcheme.
To "kill" the drew reform jokes of journal
ism would bo to annually eliminate pagw
upon pages of copy. Nevertheless , It was
the press which Indirectly started the drees
reform movement In the Iowa echool. The
normal college U In Cedar K lla. which U ,
JoubUcen , not far from the Cedar Raplda
which the Clictry Utcrs cue nightly adver
tising here.
Last spring ft number of Iowa editor ! ) vis-
lied Cedar Knlls , for what purpose deponent
payclh not. The deponent In this case Is the
Normallte , the college paper , nnd U goes on
to say of the editors that "returning home ,
many complimented us. " ot course they
did. Even editors are not oblivious to the-
elmrms of COO girls.
"One however , " continues the Normallte ,
"took occasion to criticise the appearance of
our girls , paying that they looked frail ,
nervous , lacking In physical strength. That
liU remarks wcro true none deny. Ho nt-
trlbuted such n condition to ovemtudy nnd
lack of exercise. Wo admitted that , too , but
going deeper wo found this lack of exercise
and consequent nervous exhaustion wns the
reault. In largo measure , of clothing not
adapted to Us purpose. Heavy sklrln , sup
ported by tight bellfl , are not calculated to
make walking a joy to their wearer , and
climbing up Normal hill on n wet or windy
morning In such a garb Is about all the ex-
erclso tln > average girl thinks oho needs.
"A change of dress , then , was tieccsjar >
for the better health of our girls. Could wo
llnd n costume that would be at once health
ful , Inconspicuous and becoming to nil ?
Would nil the teachers approve of Its adop
tion ? Would enough girls tnke hold of the
inovciurtit to make It n HUCCCSS ?
"Thtuo questions have been answered , nnd
the first day of the winter term , npppro-
prlately beginning with Thanksgiving In
their hearts , over 100 of the young women
of the Iowa Slate Normal school have ap
peared In what has been adopted ns tin
Virhool suit. ' This consists of n skirt six
luchra from the lloor , Jacket to wear over
Milrt or fancy waists , leggings for protec
tion In cold or stormy weather , nnd a plain
hat or cap to match.
"U Is not expected that all will wear the
snmo material or color , though dark blue
storm serge or cheviot Is recommended ne
probably moat serviceable and appropriate.
Individuality may be emphasized In waists.
collr.ru and ties , while- uniformity of style
will prove nn advantage. Rational under
clothing Is Insisted upon ; extremities are to
bo warmly dressed , heavy skirts to bu abolished
ished , and the weight ot the clothing to be
evenly distributed.
"Thli may alt be doneIn such costume ,
and yet the whole effect may he perfectly
feminine and modest. The length of the
aklrt Is the only point which can be criti
cised , and even that , does Its wearer pos
sess n bicycle , Ls unheeded. Why , then ,
should our girls be condemned for adopting
that which has proved Itself hr.Utliful. be
coming , ocononilcxl , nnd Fonslblc ?
"That there will be criticism , none can
doubt. That the criticism will cease with
knowledge Is equally sure. The Normal
school can nfTord to lead In any movement
which U for the betterment of the teachers
of the state , and If the fact that tencher
and ilrls ; here arc adopting a working suit
which glvc.1 freedom and health shall en
courage our alumnae throughout the state
to do the same , shall free even one country
sc.honl teacher who plods through dust and
mud and now to her dally work , we can
hear the strictures of our friends bravely
and take no heed of the others. The Normal
leads the way. Who Is to follow ? "
A WOrilAJf I'ASTOH.
ICcv. Cnrnllm- . lnrtl ! < > ami Her
Si < vi'a-l > ay C'linrrh.
Ko" ' American women are Impressing
themselves more potently upon their times
than la Caroline J. Hartlett , the gifted pan-
tor of the People's ehurch at Kulnina/.oo ,
Mich. It wns my pleasure to Interview Miss
Bnrtlctt , nt the home of Susan I ) . Anthony ,
where she wns being entertained , and to re-
pturt her sermons while In Hoche.ster.
The first Impression ono receives upon com
ing into the presence of Miss Hartlett Is of
Iho spiritual luvellncsH of her face. It Is so
luminous with the Inner light that one Is
almost startled , as 'If ho hnd suddenly come
fne.e to fnco with n spirit. Not only her eyes ,
which nro of a cleur blue-gray , but every
fenture partakes of this Irrldlatlon. She Is
fair with hnlr of the soft light brown , which
. iccomimnlos her tvno. nnd n brow indicative
of-strong mentality. Kow of ht-r photographs
present her as she Is , as the real attraction
of her face Is not In her features , but In that
which is elusive of photography.
As she stnnds In the pulpit , .Miss Ilartlctt
looks the modern Hypntla , with her superb
liolght and carriage , enhanced by the grace
of n seml-llttlng robe of black corded Bilk ,
vlilch she always wears when performing
the duties of her office.
There Is no doubt thnt much of Miss Ilart-
lott's Influence over an nucllenc6 Is due to
tlie- power of a pi-rsonal'ty ' that nt enco wins
and command ; ' . Colonel Ingcrsoll tuld of Mlsa
IHrtlett , that oho had that divine thing
enthusiasm , and one cannot como Into her
| irc'3nro without feeling Its vitalizing In
line nee.
Her voice In delivering n discourse Is musl-
eil nnd finely modulated. In the subject mat
ter cf her nsrmons , one meets the thought
which prevails In llio Unitarian and Indr-
lipndent churchey ; thought es&ontlally relig
ious , but not theological. Her ptyle nnd dic
tion are strongly reminiscent of I'rof. Swing ,
the same touch of thu poet and nrtlut , the
P.IIIIO beauty ! nml richness ; and these are ex
cellent garments In which to clothe a phil
osophical fact.
Miss Ilartlett'a wish to enter the ministry
laics back to her chlHhood , "from the
limo I was 1C years old , " sheeaj'B , "I had
jut ono thought to become the minister of
CAUOUNE J. nAUTLKTT.
" .the close of the
an Independent church. At .
college courio at Carthage. Miss D&rtlctt , out
of reppect to the wishes of her near relatives ,
who were opposed to1 her entering the minis
try , deferred the realization of her project
for n time nnd entered the realm
of Journalism , becoming a reporter on the
Minneapolis Tribune. So well adapted was
she to thu work that In a few months she
becimo nEr.lstnnt city editor. While filling
this position a letter came to the Tribune
from the Morning Times of Osbkosh , WIs. ,
asking for a city editor for that paper , and
Mlas Ilartlctt was given the place. OsbkcMli
was then but a lumber town , and the youth
ful journalist found a rough element to deal
with oven on the repertorlal staff ; yet she
camn off conqueror and made so marked a
ouccess of editing that she was next offered
a similar , but more lucrative , ponttlon ou a
leading dally In Sioux City. Dakota.
This position ho retained until the way
waa clear for her to engage In the higher
work , which oho had not lost eight of , In
the years ot her Journalistic success. Her
rapid rise In the newspaper world demon
strated unquestionably that. lie would have
become eco of the foremost women In this
position had she chosen to continue It , but
her heart was otherwise.
The transition from Journalism to the min
istry was made at Sioux Kails , where Miss
Ilartlctt became aewlstant pastor of a Uni
tarian church , whoso regular pastor wan a
woman * The experience gained hero enabled
Ifor to assume charge of a email Unitarian
church at Kulainazoo , Mich.
TIII : ( ; OVJU.MSS.
.V I'ONlilon Xot Vi-r > - IlL-Hlrulilc In Thl
Country.
After a llttlo experience In this country
most governesses nro anxious to give up
their position In the family for one In tbo
schools on account of Its superior independ
ence. From many points ofview
former position Is a very unenviable one.
They are often treated merely AS upper
Bcrvautu , and la uomo canon hardly as well.
Sometimes , for Instance , they are obliged
to cat with the servants , or have their media
served In their rooms , In which latter case
they run < ho risk ot being badly served ,
rarely getting anything hot , nud In case
ft dinner party Is on , nro sometimes put oft
with n nlmplo bowl of bread nnd milk. They
are nlso mcro or less subject to the caprlceo
ot children , nnd are frequently turned awny
with llttlo ceremony , "llussln U the El
Dorado of governwsos , " said ono who has
had cxperlerco In many countries ; "there
they are taken In ns members ot the family ,
are even Included In their dinner parties ,
and In almost nil cases n three-years' con
tract Is made with them. "
A German lady of very high family ,
daughter of n count , nnd sifter of n baroness ,
has her own little tale to tell of her ex
periences In America. She wns n womnn ot
as high culture ns breeding , speaking seven
languages lluctitly , a brilliant musician , nnd
all-round scholar. For semi > time she was
at the Russian court ns governess , where
she enjoyed the friendship and confidence
of her royal pupils. When they left her
for college fiho was offered a life pension
Rt the court where she received every
courtesy and consideration. Hut thinking
that ( similar experiences might nwnlt her
anywhere , nnd being anxious to continue
work , she rcfuaed the pension nnd came
to America. Shr- chanced nt first Into n
fabulously wealthy but democratic family ,
who extended to her every civility. After
finishing with her pupils there she was
offered a similar position In an equally rich
family. Hearing , however , that she would
be likely to be treated at an upper servant ,
she hesitated nbout accepting It. All else
failed , however , and she felt herself forced
to call at the house nnd tender ncceptnnce.
Here she was kept waiting for an hour , nnd
then summarily dLtmlsscd by the maid with
out seeing her mistress nnd naked to call
again. Smothering her pride , he did so ,
end after again waiting an hour wns told
thnt there would be no occasion for her
walling longer and thnt she need not
trouble to call again. And thus It Is some
times that cultivated , high-bred women from
the other sldo are turned' from the doors of
our nouveau rlcho.
Caracal , grebe skin nnd soft full nioulnon
are all novel favorites.
Heaver It ntlll used both plucked ami itn-
plucked In Its natural color , nnd nlso dyed.
French coats of fur or velvet are lined
with satin broche in bright , cliangeablo ef
fects , yellow , Danish red and green shades
appearing prominently.
The ; Russian silks , or Muscovites , ns they
nro called by tha modiste- , show many beau
tiful effects , especially when metal threads ,
whether gold , silver or bronze , are made
imo of.
lllaok lynx IP now to be obtained In a
fast dye the color dors not rub off In the
least. nid : this with black fox Is ono of the
most drccsy and effective of the long lus
trous furs.
Sashes In themadeup variety ot ullk
with a chiffon rullle around the edges and
a trimming of black- velvet ribbon ure
prophesied nnd sometimes m.\do ot the
same silk ns the gown.
Skunk fur Is exceedingly popular this
winter. It Is now wholly deodorized , nnd
Is extensively used under a far more ele
gant title to decorate garments both light
and dark In color.
Among Parisian fancies are small fur
boleros almost covered with heavy beaded
arabesques en applique sunken In the rich
pllo. This decoration U repeated on velvet
boleros , Mulshed with high-standing Queen
IJcss collar. ) .
The artistic and beautifully woven peau
do solo Is a great favorite this winter , nnd
It nppcars In nil the varied nnd tempting
colors of the season. ICxamples of this
choice material how shaded effects In two
colors , either defined or vaguely blended.
Knife-plaited frills of colored taffeta silk
beginning just lu front of the cars and
extending across the back , are very becom
ing with the added frill of laces , and really
the special charm of this collar fad Is that
any decoration which Is becoming Is ad
missible.
The largo Empire muffs made of velvet ,
satin ribbon , chiffon , etc. , are elegant rivals
ot the muffs of various furs. A fur lining
is now very generally put Into both mil tin
of fur and the fancystyles. . As the osten
sible object ot this appendage of the toilet
Is to keep the hands warm , It Is curious
that no ono thought earlier of tbo fur
lining.
A novelty among the new silk skirts ls
one without nny lining nt all. It Is cut
somewhat In the bell fashion , and Is
trimmed with rows of blsck velvet ribbon
fron the hem to the knee. Hands of bias
velvet and aatln , with a space between , are
also used for skirt trimming , and bias
folds arrnngi-'d to Inp n little over each
other like tucks are set In around the bet
tom.
tom.Tho
The "Potter" coiffure , parted on the left
sldo and arranged In soft waves on each
sldo of the head. Is a fashionable fad of
the moment with stylish young women.
If the hair Is not naturally wavy. It Is
put up on extra largo pins at night , the
hair well moistened before It Is twined In
and out on the pins. A clasp that comes
with the box of plus holds the waved
tresses firmly In position.
Peacock green and blue and gold breast
feathers , yellowish green nnd blue-green
birds' heads , quills and wings are much
used on black , dark-green , gray and golden-
brown hats and bonnets , and wide watered
silk bows with largo buckles of Irish diamonds
mends In the center , arc used with good
effect on black nnd green hats In Hiihens ,
Sir Peter Lely and duchess of Devonshire
shapes all large and spreading In con
tour.
In the domain of faconno or fancy
fabrics arc Included all fiorts of corded ,
striped , watered , mottled , dotted , plaidcd ,
bonded , cliangeablo and checked effects.
The rich Oriental dyes are noted In many
of these fabrics , and among expensive and
effective winter stuffs are India woolens
figured lu rare 1'crnlan designs showing
applique patterns In high and low relief.
These devices are repeated In luxurious
carriage and opera cloaklngs.
The serviceable nnd stylish street rcd-
Ingolo of seasons past has multiplied Its
ono deep fur-edged cape by three , thereby
losing none of Its smartness , for each of.
the graduated capea la very full at the
lower edge , revealing In Its undulations
glimpses of a bright Tartan lining or one
of plain brilliant cerise. A stylish expres
sion of the rcdlngoto style , made up on
tbt ) other side , Is of rough-finished cloth
In black , the capes edged with black Per
sian lamb and lined with cerlsu silk , show-
Ing a fine rcppcd surface. The high standIng -
Ing collar Is wholly of the fur.
A rival and It thu ISSUCR were Important ,
It might bo said a formidable rival ot the
new pointed bodices named after various
queens Is the draped or folded corsage. Ar
ranged to milt different types of figures , It
can be made very becoming to stout , me
dium and slender forms severally , the folds
being moro or less voluminous , broad or
narrow , few or many In number , arranged
high or placed low , and laid above a deep
cclnture that comes up very high on the
bodice , or merely held la place by a low ,
narrow pointed girdle In short , to null
the special Individual under consideration.
Some of the new , very smartest evening
bodices are called the "Queen Elizabeth"
models , and thcso are made with extremely
long points , the graduation from the waist
to the end of the points being unusually
long and sharp they are even moro ex-
trcmo than those tdiapcd long years ago
on the original bodice , nnd as regards the
jewel decorations applied to this particular
corsnge , they are not to bo outnumbered
by England's one-time queen herself.
Jeweled corsages and jeweled collars and
girdles appear among a largo portion of
the most oxpenolvo and fashionable gowns
of the -winter , nnd nn theno toilets the
spurloun gems are careful copies ot real
stones and as a rule do not err on the nld
of undue proportion , therefore look far leas
meretricious and are In butter tauto than
moro obtrusive Jewel garnitures.
Vunilnliiu
The prlncces of Wales Is a great lover of
dogs , and at tha Uut dog ho\v curried off
an armful of prizes ,
Mrs. Jonnlo Juno Croly hag bctm created
honorary president for llfo of the Now York
State Federation of Woman's Clubu ,
Mlsa Annlo Walters , a handaomo and vl-
vacloufi young brunuttn , has opened nn un
dertaking establishment In Murcellus , Mich.
Congroflimnn-olect Vlncont of the Fifth
Kanwa district announces tbo ( election of
liln private secretary lu tbo portion of his
younc dautlUer. Ml a Vincent U now lu To-
ppkn le-nrnlnp shorthand nnd In other
equipping hcrvclf for her Wanhlngton du
ties.
ties.Corn
Corn Hortrtisio Smith of Arkansas City ,
Kan. , who Is described ns "young , pretty and
wuniurled. " owns a largo ranch and d.OOO
head of cattle.
Mrs , Pcruglnl , nro Knto Dlckeni , hiis Just
completed the revision of the proofs of tha
Into Miss Mntnlo Dickens' book , entitled
Father ns 1 Kecnll Him. "
Princess Ileatrlco Is qulto an authority
among royal Indies upon the subject of botany
any , nnd has lately discovered aoveral rare
specimens which nho added to her her
barium.
Ono of the most prosperous farms In Kan
sas Is owned and operated solely by women.
It is located In Hutlcr county , and Is owned
by Mrs. Ogden. She and her daughter per
form all the work.
Quern Ainrllo of Portugal witnessed A
number ot Interesting oxperlniptits nt the
Pasteur Institute when she wns recently lu
Paris. Her majesty Is about to write an
other volume setting forth her medical ihco.
rles ,
Mrs. Freemen Thomas , who accompanied
her husband on a trip to Kalgurll. Austra
lia , recently performed the feat ot dcureml *
Ing and ascending the Croesus Proprietary
mine. She had to traverse 175 feet of ver
tical ladder without a pause.
Mrs. I.evl P. Morton Is the honorary presi
dent of thi > Needlework ( lulld of America ,
nnd Mrs. J. W. Stewart of Glen Hldgo , a
cousin nf Governor Morton , Is the general
president. The guild furnishes new gar
ments to all public Institutions.
The dowager empress of Germany Is visitIng -
Ing her mother , Queen Victoria , and recently
celebrated her fifty-sixth birthday by nu
elaborate royal dinner party. She Is consid
ered ono of the best scholars among the
royal women of Europe.
Miss Kdlth English , who. on the 30th ot
this month , will bo married to Governor-
elect John 11. Tanner of Illinois , Is an ac
complished conversationalist. As Mr. Tan
ner Is n widower , with grown children , Mrs.
Tanner will never lack for a person with
whom to converse.
MM. Cleveland Is studying French. She Is
taking three lessons n week of an hour's du
ration each. Her professor , who Is one of
uio won-Known teacners or the capital , sayn
his distinguished pupil shows unusual aptl
ttnlo for the French speech , and has already
acquired considerable knowledge of the lan-
KuagL- . _ *
" "
.Mrs. Thomas C. Plait , who Is lady chair
man of the Commercial Travelers' fair , la
busily engaged In dressing a large and beau
tiful doll , which Hho will place In the doll
show. It is sure to bo the admired of all
admirers , for , nsldo from the fact thnt Mrs , ,
Platt dressed It , It will have many charmiv
In Its own right. j'
Miss Lillian Jenkins , who has been a
medical missionary for iiomo years past In
LueltncHv , India , Is one ot the best women :
linguists In the world. She has Just started
for St. Aldnns , In the dlocesoot Natal , South
Africa , where she will do special mission
work among the women , having mastered
the language previous to starting.
It Is rumored that Mrs. Herman Oclrlclu / &
will bo the loader ot uociety In Gotham foi /
the remainder of the season , having re
cently taken n Fifth avenue residence , upon
which $200,000 was spent not long ago
merely for remodeling nnd redecorating.
Her sister , Miss Virginia Fair , the Cnllfor-
nla heiress , will enjoy the gnyctlea with
her.
her.Marie
Marie Aitello of Portugal enjoys the dlii-
Unction of being the first woman of royal
birth who has acquired the right to wrlto
M. D. nftcr her name. She has succeeded
In passing with Hying colors the cxnmlna-
tlon entitling her to practice as a physician ,
and she has attained this by two years f > t
extraordinary work , for hcsldea her medical
studies , she is constantly occupied with na
tional affalrH. Her taste for this atudy
dates from the time of the discovery ot
diphtheria.
Two American women. Miss Alice Luco
nnd Mlsa Ida J. Hyde , have recently received
the dcgrco of Ph. D. , each mngnn cum Inudc ,
from the University of Heidelberg. In so
distinguishing themselves they have gained
n great victory for other women , who have
heretofore received but a scant and grudg
ing welcome at German universities. Miss
Luco U n Maine girl. Hy permission ot
the Ministry of the Grand Duchy of Hadcn
she was allowed to attend lectures nt the
University of Heidelberg during the summer
of 189i > . Miss Hyde claims Chicago as her
home , but she has been there very llttlo for
a number of years. After being graduated
from Cornell In 1SU1 she spent some time nl
liryn Mawr as a fellow and Instructor before -
fore going abroad to study In the biological ,
laboratory nl Heidelberg.
\viniti : TMIO UAUTH is DKAU.
Cy Wnrman In New Yorlc Run ,
How cheerlcsH IH the wind Hint sweeps
The lillls of Galilee ,
Where Humourless the Jordan creeps
Down to the deep Dead sea.
O'er barren rockif tbo dead vines trail ,
And by dead tendrils cling ,
And on the lilll and In the vale ; *
There Is no breath of spring. '
The tlylilK Blanco of Christ , the King , i
Seems to have stnyed and stilled
The volco of every living thing
Where Christ , the Kliifc' , was killed.
The brooks , tbo birds that sing with them ,
Have long Hlnco passed uwny ,
And all about Jerusalem
The earth Is dead today.
r
The report recently circulated that ,
II. A. Necly ( Episcopal ) of Maine will soon
retire Is authoritatively denied.
Mine. Yale's
Great Remedies.
WHY EVERY WOMAN SHOULD USE THEM
No ono will attempt In dlxpute ( lie fnct that It
la to u woman's nilvuntiiRu to bo uoixl looking ;
thon-foro It Is un urgent ncccpltx lliuL nverx
woman niukcH It n practice to toke caru of her
self mid line every inciinn lincmn to cnliiinco her
physical perfection , nnd tlicicby retain her clf
rarpeut nnd liniiplnefls.
Tin ) ndvancril method * of beautifying so nuc-
ce fully employed hy WHIP. Yiilo enable every
woman In the lund to rc > ; ulnle her own litnuty
unit liK-renso her uaai ] looks rvery day. Wlicn
Mine. Ynlo ( U t iniulo lier Olrarrrlcs no did not
ask any ono to imo them until the ln-molf li.nl
dona no , Hho illil not nutUn it claim for tin-in
until ulio liciiolf had become Lruutlful from tliclr
UK' , nml now , lit tliu nca of J5 , and after unlni ;
her own rnmcillcs for twenty-two > tnrii , nho In
celebrated nu the tnimt liciiutlful woman llvlnu ,
Is it. Knuiil demonstration of wlint tier rrmeille *
will ilo ; thererorn thli U why every woman In
tliu land ehoiilil tire Mine. Yale's rem dlcD , ani
use plenty of them , and grow Lcuutlful and lx
como happy.
YALE BEAUTY PRICE LIST.
Ynlo'ii HKIn Food ( for wrlnlilen ) . ' - - .
2 tltct il.EiO and IJ.OO a'Jar '
Yaln'H Complexion C'reum 1,00 n jar
Yale's Complexion Illfiich 2.00 u bnllU
YuIe'B Dxcclnlor llulr Tonic 1.00 n batll *
Yulu'u Ilalr Clenneer l.ooaliottla
Yitlo's I-ii Krvckla ( for freckle * ) 1.00 botllo
Ynlu' * Hpcoliil I/itlonfor ( LlfcldiruJi ) l.Vv u battl *
Ynlo'M Hiirclal Ointment ,
( for plmidi-s und kln dl ea cii ) . . . . 1 00 a Jar
Ynln' Hand Whllcner 1 00 a liotll *
Yule'n Kuc Powder M
Yale. ' * Complexion Heap , . 23
Yiile'n iilxlr : of lirnuty ( nkln tonic ) . 1,00 n bottl *
Ynlei's Keftlllzer.frurPS romtlpatlon ) l.CO a tiitl ! ?
Ynln'H Illood and I.lvcr Tcnle 1,00 u bottU
Yulo's 1'rultcura.
( for female wetkneo ) 1.00 a bottl *
Nolil Ity All UriiKKlNfit anil Driller * .
Mmo. Yale's "Guldo to Beauty. '
Will tie mailed frte upon application. Addrtii
'we. M. Yulo. Temp le of Ucouty. Clilcaco
Vor al by liOSTON ' 1TOHJS mtUO DKfT. ,
Omaha , Neb.