TITE O3FAITA DAILY T5EF : SITXD\V , 15 , ISOO.
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- IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
&t& < s * s > srxji fr s
i i i i i M * t > ' ' ' * t I I I I
Till * * ASII10\S IX I'AHI.4.
fnrn , Clonk * , Hlcli lint * . O nvn ,
nnil .lcr clril llutfun * .
PARIS. Nov. 2. Tli * mode In more and
more fixed for Jackets. except with evening
dress , where , aa always , the wrnp netd
to IKloose. . There are , It Is true , fashion
pajitrs that continue to show eepee bristling
with pudftg. Presumably the designers find
It easier to go on making what they have
Uarnrd how to make. The fact remains ,
newrtheleiu. that such a cape will hardly
be fouua today In any first clans private
dressmaking house In Paris. They are con-
el1rr out of date.
1 have celebrated In former letters the
short lof o coat and there U little new to
add Some of them are trimmed round the
bottoms It is an ancient Idea revived that
looks quaint and novel today. Thus a fckat-
Ing costume of gray corduroy has sable fac
ings round the neck , a sable hand round the
bottom of the rklrt. Nothing more Jaunty
and charming could he Imagined. Much In
the present fashions seems to be Influenced
by the Mrydc. and certainly If the godct
capp had not worn Its natural days out
the bicycle would have brought about Its
nbandon. It Is found a convenience to have
CLOTH AND FVH VISITING GOWN.
one's drees easily adaptable and nothing
goes he-tier for bicycle dre-ss than the short
loose skirt.
Long cloth redlngotes are being made.
This garment Is virtually an out-of-donr
gown. With a skirt of the same It makes
a fabhlouable dree * for calls , public recep
tions and private views. It should give an
effect of length and sllmnes to be chic and
to this cud must be nlce > ly fitted round
the hips , the sleeves bo modestly small and
the collar very high. The front may be
singlet or double breasted and fitted close
or half IOOFC. One of violet cloth Is lined
with white squirrel and has facings of sil
ver fox. The front draws acreiss diagonally
with some wrinkles and is fastened with
largo enameled buttons In Imitation of
Florentine Mozalc. A very notable one made
for an actress in a new play is of chamois
colore-d cloth with white bear fur and ex
quisite mother of pearl buttons engraved
in an openwork design. It is with such
long siren-like garments as this that the
high crowne-d bats may he worn , and the
hat made for this dress has a high square
crown. ith the narrow brim rolled up on
linth sides , much like a man's silk hat In
u Brunrmel's days. It Is of white beaver
with a black -\elve-t hand fastened In front
ivlth a Rhine stone buckle and a high pompon
pen trimming toward.
Regarding furs , sealskin seems to have
lost some of Its old vogue , if one may judge
by the nun'be > r of black Astrakhan Jackets
that seem to outnumber It twelve to one. It
Is curly Astrakhan that Is used for these
jackets. The-y are greatly enriched this
year by buttons of engraved silver and other
precious materials. The-so precious buttons
CORDUROY AND FUR VISITING GOWN.i
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ i
liavo oo taken the fancy as to put the
threatened brandebourgs quite out of court.
Half length capra for reception ; and evenIng -
Ing wear arc made of long-haired lamb ,
whlto or black. Ermine IB i.carce-ly used ,
ejxcept on cloaks. Trimming furs are sable
and silver fox and their Imitations. Tippets
with a head und tall are still worn and arc
large. Muffs are small and areuntrlmmed. .
A novelty In evening cloaks Is a long
loose coat with a good deal of fulness be
hind provlde-d with large sleeves that are
not closed In at the waist , but that fall ae
pre-at ruffles the length of the band Some
times theer ruffles are prolonged and Jabot
down the sides of the cloak In wings. Soniei
wnuUlte. drapery eifft-et * arc thus obtained ,
in which color contrast plays a part , as
for example , with black mnlro outside and
a dull old rose lining. This same garment
may bo cut to half length.
VISITING GOWNS.
In a large number of afternoon and bom *
evening gown the belt plays a great part ,
and banquet bodies art- scarcely seen at all.
Many belts are In pointed girdle form , and
itome have loot : SMB endis behind. The
bodice with such b lt muct fit rather cloe
and has often the outside material of the
biek cut hiss and drawn smoothly over the
lining , without warns. Bodice * trimming is
placed on the upper half and takes the form
of a draped yoke or a bolero. At the back
of the neck there is not so much display of
Iww as the > re was. The tiewenl idea is to
bind a colored rlbtion with black velvet and
new It In three or four loops Inside the neck
round the back. Very simple slee'ves , cut
all In one piece , arc being made by the beet
houcer. They fall naturally and without
any stuffing , though the bodice trimming
may be carried out over them to form an
epaulette effect. Butterfly , or wing or shiny
drapery Is avoided as looking too pro
nounced.
The princess form of gown Is being con
siderably worn. It also Is trimmed -with a
yoke orbolero , and may have trimming
round the foot. One of dark blue velvet with
a dce-p rufie ! put on to form a yoke with
epaulettes has the e-dge of the ruffle and the
foot of the skirt trimmed with a band of
white guirupe bordered each side with sable.
Another one < his the back cut down in points
over white lace laid on the lining underneath
and forming a gulmpc. The velvet back and
front meet In tw-o points on each shoulder
under Jeweled buttons ; collar bands of vel
vet. Tills gown was made by Kelix.
Among other new models is one with the
skirt of le-a. ' brown armure Intcrwove-n with
silver threads , a bolero of the same color in
velvet , and a blouse of gray chiffon Bpingled
with silver. A gown w-lth a skirt of black
molro has a bolero of black velvet over a
Mouse ofblack tnoussellnc de sole. Thure
Is a Jet on the bolero. An orangecolort d
ribbon peeps out of the neckband behind
and the blouse droops over a belt of the
same color. With the same materials an
other gown ha * the silver arrange'd In a low
nec-ked blouse over the high blouse mousjo-
line.
line.A
A novelty In blouses for wear -with silk
Fklrts Is all of silk except the front , which
has a yoke of the silk and the lower bouffant
part of plaited mousEellnede sole. This is car-
ricj with more or lees success In black bro
cade silk sprigged with rose and front of
rose mousselinc. Hose velvet is
in the neck band behind. One in
durk green velvet has a palo
Mmfront. . Another Is in blue and green
changeable ) silk with green crape front , and
unuther in white niulret with pink front
M-wn over with imitation pearls. This last
has the neck band of the pink and pcarU ,
bound with whlto round the top.
BALL GOWNS.
In evening gownn there Is very little nov
elty as yet. The bodice Is pointed In front
and round In the back , and Is laced or
hooked In the back. It is cut straight across
the neck and the sleeve * are eet on above
the neck to give a square effect. Necks are
only moderately low. Some sleeves fall OS
tliu shoulders and straps take their place as
a support. These bands give opportunity
to utilize Jewels If one has them. The usual
sleeve forms a puff , either elngle or over
lapping ruffles. Some ball gowns , but not
all. have girdle belts and sash end.
U Is still n question ns to whether there
will be much vogue for flowered silks.
Worth seems to count upon It absolutely ,
since his house Is well stocked with elabo
rate brocades , but Worth's custom Is largely
among a foreign clientele and in court
gowns , where ho can dictate hlmse'lf. It Is
not BO certain that this will be the choice
of Parisian women. There Is. in fact , a
leaning toward satin gowns with hand em
broidery on the front. Also very beautiful
gowns are made of blocked or plaited silks.
In delicate tints , as of blue and. rose , pe-arl
or palo yellow. These arc trimmed simply
with black velvet. These ruffles overlap on
the skirt , running close together in front
and spre-adlng toward the bsck , so as to
take the. outline of a curve. The sleeves are
made of the ruffles. A gown of this sort
in vellow raousseline bound with black has
black velvet on the bodice forming a
knotted scarf across the back and a bolero
In front. Jabots of white , lace- fall from un
der the front of the bolero , and shaded
orange velvet forms a knot at the neck and
" !
have the entire skirt of
nlalte-d moussellntde sole enriched with
bands of lace or Jewelled pat-sementerle
running down from the. belt at Intervals.
With this skirt is a velvet bodice with a
chemisette of the moussellne.
For remodeling soiled evening gowns a
useful adjunct Is transparent ecru lints ,
either erabnrldercd or plain. If plain the
ruffles are bound with black velvet. It
harmonize-s particularly -well with pink.
Add a belt and shoulder straps of fibaded
velvet running from pale rfe down to red.
THE FASHIONABLE COIFFURE.
I have It on the authority of Lcutherlc
that in eibedlence to the change In lists the
hair Is t * > lng worn higher upon the head.
carried up far enough togo
The. knot is now
go under the hat crown which is now high
enough to contain it. This is a natural effort
at adjustment of lines and was to have been
expected. The method Is to wave it all
round , as heretofore , draw it high into a
small knot and bet a narrow Spanish comb
behind the knot. The tare are unt-ovcred ,
but the waves cf the back fall loose enough
to fill the space behind them , and at e ich
Bldo the. forehead may fall a little fringe.
This is called the Louis XV. mode and will
prevail for the winter. The evening coiffure
does not diffetr from that of the day , except
by the addition of an ornsme-nt. On account
of the simplicity of this arrang-ement evenIng -
Ing ornaments are small. Diamonds are
set In a delicate balanced spray to be placed
just In front of the ktot. Heavy coronets
are not worn.
AVhat becomes then of the Botlcem. „
those fluffy ear curtains that for a year
past have made the caricaturists joy ? 1
this and he replied
asked the- master coiffeurs
plied : "Then , are at present two distinct
modes in hair ; that of the grande monde
and that eJ thtdemi monde. The mode of
the first is not the Hotlcelli. "
NOTES ON BICYCLE DRESS.
While the eternal discussion goes on be
tween the. merits of trouscra and iwtticoatB.
development seems to run actively along
both llnce and it ce-ems certain that bicycle
dress is only at the beginning of Its evolu
tion. In France no attempt is made to con
form , since It IB considered that as yet there
IB no standard.
Starting with the fcklrt as an experi
mental basis , it is either long or short , or
wide or narrow , according to caprice- . One
of the most successful ckirts seen at Trou-
vllle was in a thousand crimped plaits that
floated backward and gave the effect of the
winged wheel of fortune.
As to trousers , they have been refined by a
thousand subtle lines , such as incus men
never dreamed of.
The preferred upper garment , as said
above appears to > e the- short , loose coat.
It dl-fgulse-s the width of the hi | * and when
all Is said and done what fashion l after
just now Is the blender ADA CONE.
WlXTKIt HIIAPUIIIISS.
StrlUliic rrntiirc-H of Dt-porntlonn f r
HouseOrcnt mill Sninll.
Draperies are distinctly the most Imjior-
tant of all featurc-a In the new autumnal
decorations for houses , both small and great.
DraiK-rles. too , In the exact definition of that
word not falling jiortlcrcs and perhaps
simple lambre-qulnc at the doors , mantle
shelves and windows , but yards and yards of
fringed , vmbroldenvd and variously decorated
fabric , loope-d and gathered wherever an op
portunity offers.
This winter , not only the chimney piece ,
but the mirror above It ; the doors and bt'ds.
the corner divans and dressing table-s , are all
literally and completely dressed , for all of
this U In strict compliance with the pe-rlod
of a Bourbon king , whe * > e iashlous we have
never Imitated before. This time It Is his
majesty , Louis XVIII. . who has become the
mode , and the style of decoration he employed
Is happily almost distinct from any of the
Louis revived bolero In Paris and Imported
for our American homes.
Apparently the decorators who ecrved by
special appointment to Louis XVIII.
not only advocated draperlee wherever
they were ptwwlble , but a great abun
dance and variety of materials used lu com
bination. Velvet fe nearly always the founda
tion hanging and upon this , at a tttngle
door or window , as many as three or four
different types of silk , brocaded or muslin
goods ar looped on over It.
VSING PLVMBS AXD ROSETTES.
The looping upon all occasions Is made
to fall from rosette knots , and uniquely
enough quantities of fringes , feather * and
ribbons are utilized to complete the effect of
great elaboration. For extmplc. here hi a
doorway showing how peacock plumes are
being adopted for Interior adornment , be
cause the peafowl in some way ie closely
connected with the bourbons of our cen
tury. This door Itself Is framed first In
carving that Imitates the joints of Japanese
bamboo. This Is all richly gilded and from
- L . . jc * = rt = 5 a
EFFECTIVE HOUSE GOWNS.
the top fnll two curtains of the thickest
red satin , brocaded all over In big yellow
and peacock blue figures.
Vpon thcso hangs the lambrequin of
Aubusson velvet , in brilliant tone of pea
cock preen , with blue and yellow designs
on it. and then , from a bowkuot above the
door frame. Is looped a scarf of the loveliest
soft yellow Japanese silk , edged with yel
low silk fringe. Over the door IE fastened
a pyramid of peacock feathers and below that
the iridescent soft breast plumage of this
bnmo bird , M < t In two Oriental fan frames.
Carved rotettcn of gilded wood and yellow
satin ribbons serve to catch the Bill : dra
pery of cither tide of the door , and though
bewildering and in bad taste the actual
results are wonderful and truly beautiful , i
LESS EXPENSIVE DECORATION.5.
Naturally an entrance or window , frilled ,
flowered and feathered In this style , costs
the householder considerable , but as cheaply
ss one can buy Inexpensive Louie XVI. wall
papers and chintzes , just as the frugal
but progressive woman can do over her
own pretty rooms In charming machine-
made Aubusson tapestries , damasked cottons
and Bauvals velours , with Jute fingers , that
deceive * the eye and last as long as the
genuine silk velvets and satin brocades.
As might be expected the latter are very
costly , for all the Louis XVIII. draperies are
of most fantastic weave , end it Is safe
to say that interest was aroused in them by
their very extensive use In Bernhardt's re
vival of "La Dame aux Camillla ! . . " Turough-
out. the velvets , satins and silks and even
in the tapfftry upholstery , deep res ? and
the varying tones of peacock green ana
blue predominate. Now where a bed IE
to be draped , a scalloped lambrequin o
velvet or velours must flrtt be set on
plain about the canopy top. At every
corner large puffy cabbage knots of a soft
satin or Bilk are fastened , with what arc
called jabot falls depending from them and
their wide fringed looping * of silk festooned
from point to point. Inside both lambre
quins and curtains are nearly always lined
with thin rose silk and on wall hang-
Inge considerable use Is icrde of the thick
silk cord and heavy fringy tassels.
Dig conventionalized roses , arrows pierc
ing double beartr , tneseled trumpets and
trails of variegated morning glories are the
favorite de-signs woven Into thcte decor
ative goods of the Srct halt of the century ;
all of them a great relief from the medal-
FRENCH BALL. GOWN.
lions , wreaths , fleur-de-lis and miniature
ovals of the eighteenth century periods , so
done to death in the past five years.
COTTONS AND MUSLINS.
The really most striking effect secured
from this rage of swathing everything in
folds and flutes of some goods or other , is
that most of the gilt and onnulu in blotted
out of eight. In bedrooms , even the tables
are diligently pettlcoate-d and the mirrors
carefully curtained by a long , gracefully
ft-stooncd scarf , on three sides ; hut these
bedroom draperies are done in flowered
French cottons. They are not so crisp as
chintz , nor have quite no much body , there
fore , they fall easily Into festooned valances
for the bed. looped t > carfs and jabot cut-
cades at chimney piece end at the window
are combined with white muslin.
The muslin , by the way , is neither dotted ,
tamboured , nor garnished with ruffles. It
Is plain crisp white Swiss , and it ought to
hang on a ribbon draw t > trlng to form a
full short valance , covering only one-half ,
and that , of course , the loner half of the
window. Sometlme-s at the bottom It U
finished by a deep hemstitched hem , and
BK n ) ho J wcr t-lpp . ' r A , ! anj
< .c.ji. . 11 w.'h ti ib. . , r ' . . .B It
te a ire-1 lu > s\r. < as > .n thr
homes where Ihefe li tic. window frills i
I whuh are c < ntruuMU all'otor the house
| haic the fatrlly < rmt embittered in white
miniature Just in their renter * Instead
of the crest a pretty initial is frequently
used. ,
_ t
wosinx AS sniiMMVO CI.IJUKS.
Sticornnful tin S > ni rrliili"nilriit 'f n
Ill-lit cr ; * l > rinr nin .
One of New York's blageM dry Roods mer
chants demonstrates his faith. In woman' *
executive ability. From biwfcicnt to roof
his establishment Is almost"nutlrely under
feminine control.
The delivery department-'wa * the first one
entrusted to the care of th * 'Rentier sex. Its
success Inviting othow to follow. The
sweet-faced young woman , sut > eirlntendent is
alert to her business interests , yet In her
tppearance there is no masculinity notice
able. She has entire charge of this depart
ment , enpaglng and discharging help at her
pleasure. She Is personally responsible to
the firm for the correct delivery of all goods
purchased In the store.
Directly under her supervision comt
eighteen delivery wajsons , and between
twenty-five and thirty boys. There- are also
a number of shipping clerks assisting her
In various w ys , and between ten aud twelve
packers.
Personally , she must arrange the routes
and assign them to the drivers , listen to
' ell complaint ? and smooth out difficulties
arising thircfrom. Withcl she Is n very
unassuming little person , her dress Is sim
ple and In a measure prepares you for her
low. well modu'.ateid voiqe.
"Oh , I dcn't with newspaper notoriety , "
she rtmark1 a. "You know. I am merely a
ware-earner , that's ell. Yes. I believe my
! position la rather unusual , but not more so
than many of the other young women here. "
' were her replies to my first questions. " 1
have complete charge of ray department , but
do not llnd the work too laUarlous. Of course
I employ IB insny cf wy.'own ' sex cs possible
and thlnge generally run .very smoothly.
.Women are mere reliable , I believe , in their
business relations than' men ; that Is why
I they are preferred here. 'It Is uontense to
say .women work so much cheaper than men.
We are all very well paid. If we do a man's
labor why should we not receive u man's
wages ? And we do , that is of course all who
are able to earn It. "
Among the fifty women employed in
. Kupcrior positions In the main oOice of this
! firm there was scarcely a plain face. In
plain , tailor made suits , the glow of health-
tinted faces , enlivened by active minds ,
these women have no time to sulk or build
toppling air castles , whose fall brings the
sharp lines of disappointment in the faces of
so many wonren.
TIIKY aiA < Jxi"FY "THE CVKS.
ClnNfcCH t MM ] liy Prrnrli YVotiK-ii lii-
crt'CIMTlitIr llnu } ' thiilulv.
Only the wcman who is hopelessly , irre-
clatmably behind the times uses a lorgnon.
Along with the tomahawk and the waterfall ,
the lorgnon has now become a thing of the
bsrbaric pen. Now , of course , there were
lots o ! women who truly were near-sighted ,
who honestly depended on the lorgnons for
a true view of things and who will deeply
resent being deprived of them. For thcte
and for ell the rest of the feminine world
who must hsve a glass to tce through , thcie
has just come to town the new French
uionoclo and pince-nez.
For the near-sighted or the weak of
eye , , ays the lint-ton Globe , they ere a
great blei > fcing. and to any pretty face arc
excessively becoming. The eyeglass is just
as strong or as weak cs your eyes re-quire ,
and the two crystal lenses are set to a nose-
clasp of gold. No rim runs around the
lence thun-tclvcE. which ore cut either oval
or square , while at the outside edge of the
right-band lens a delicate geld handle Is
Uxed.
This Is meant to bold the glcuces by , to
set them oft or on the HOBO with , and
from this birdie hangs a narrow , soft , black
silk ribbon. It I'Utstcb about one's neck ,
has strung on it three jewtled ring gusrdt.
and Is long enough to let thr glasses hang
a little below the wcwt llue. By the
merest wrinkling of the nose these pince-
nez are tv.-itchcd off , Just as easily set on
and their wearers only keep them in place
a very few moments at a time , for the
glasses have the strongest magnifying
power , in order to make the eyes behind
them spj.ear almost abnormally large , uud
the lashes excessively long.
Occasionally in plae-v of passing the rib
bon about one's netk , it Is caught by a
Jeweled pin on the right shoulder , usually
fastened in with the- pendant pin of one's
watch and. by way of guards , three big
pi-arls or a hi'ge turquoise bead between two
pitTCfd cabochon emeralds are strung on
the ribbon. The sanio .women who run
to this extravagance have the gold nose
bridge of their glabss.'lined with tiny
diamonds , like the eyvgUiB of the princess
of Walts , who Is supposed to be responsi
ble for this fashion.
In spite of her reputation as the most
girlith-looking grandmother in Europe , thes
princess Is feeling her age , and In the list
Kix months has succumWl to the use of eye
glasses , though the never keejis them in
place longer than five minutes at a time for
fearcf scarring the bridge of her royal nose
with the tight clasps. '
Besides the pince-nez ; , with jeweled guards
and ribbons , the Jewelers are offering for tale
exquisite little chatelaine cases of velvet
and leather , all besprlhkleB with gwufi , and
meant to bo pinned pn 'one's shoulder or
hooked on at one's belt. Inside these cases
are eyeglasses so artfully' ground , polished ,
set and colored that d pair of the least at-
tractho eyes , looking through them , takes
on a most limpid , child-like expression.
Every one of tbcue glasses shows a vague
opalescent tint of azure , which gives to the
white's of the eyes an adorable tinge of blue ,
like that noticeable ) In children. Then , by
skillful grinding , the Iris and pupil are not
only magnified , but given the brilliant. Jtwel-
llke convex form that It only seen in early
youth and in the beautiful eyes of genius.
Some of these costly glasses , which are all
Parisian Imported , are ect In delicate rims
of turquoise blue enamel. They have neither
handle , nor guard , but are meant , when not
in use , to bo Utpped Into their very elegant
cases.
A year ago many misses and matrons who
dearly love to exploit a novelty wore , by
long gold chains , tingle reading glauiCfi , but
they promptly were vulcarlzed , w > the heart
t > krt ha * bttn an3 r.ow the girl of the
t u.i I Lt.t * a nilluv .e t t.c i.ri we I'r.p-t
i"'o hir tnjffi1 ' : p rve clut ir UU M
Uai'R' ' 'n > m a m'k ' r then r uti.l htr nptk
Her rit'bon ' is mwa\i tlai-k and where 1
strung through the < in le e- ? plats I * formed
by one bright diamond But them norle is
not worn for It * sweet self alone , nnr In the
leant M an aid to vlnlon. Nearly all of them
are very MlRhtly eolored , in order to lend
that effect w many women crave of J M WS-
In * on * brown and cne blue eye.
Latter day seers announce that the clrl
endowed with mismatched eye * Is fated to
retain her beauty long after other de > -
buUntes have faded with fat instronbood.
and that their lives are destined to be full
of romantic masculine admiration. 3o. with
thei < e noble aim * in view. Is not the uncom
fortable monocle worth wearing ?
WOMAN'S UATTI.i : IX AMKItlCA.
Stntuof Tliimp AVJio UnviRriiilnntpi !
from Collcce.
Miss Frances M. Abbott. In an article on
"The Pay < f College Women , " gives some
Instructive figures In regard to the status
of women who have graduated In American
colleges. A number of circulars Inclosing
oehedule * to be filled In were sent out by
the American College association. Four
hundred and fifty-one of theae circulars
were filled in nnd returned. The total num
ber of occupations adopted by the wmrn
who responded IB sixty-six , but many of
these are very nearly Oiled. There- are 3 ii
teachers , the largest number In any r.lngle
employment , forty-seven librarians snJ
womtn engaged In library work , twenty-
elRht stenographers , twenty-two nurses stid
superintendents of nursing , nineteen Journal
ists , Including editors r.nd reporters , and
nineteen elerks without specification as to
tboltlnd : l service. Whru the list of occupa
tions represented Is scanned It would cecm
: h t no woman should e-vcr despair of find
ing a fie'ld In which she can IK ? specially
.iseful. There is an actress , adveTtislng
agent , assistant In ihe National Herbarium ,
assistant on dictionary , assistant in ob
servatory , astronomer. car recorder ,
draughtswoman. Insurance broker. Insur
ance solicitor , writer of advertisements , re
viser ol patents , water analyst , besides sev
eral prrof readers , telegraph operators.
bookkeepers and artists. U is somewhat
remarkable that so few American women
nave taken to the profession of medicine.
Out of nearly 2.000 members of the Am Tl-
can College association , less thsii 2 per
cent write M. D. after their names. This is
ibo more fcurprislns in that medicine is one
of the few callings where payment is the
came regardless of tex. On this subject of
the relative pay cf women and men. Mss :
Abbott's paper contains a good deal of In
formation. Of 250 women who made re-ply ,
160 got less pay than men for the same
work , ninety-five- received the same pcy
and five women actually received more pay.
To the question of the relative value of the
services of men and wcmen there were als.i
many contributions. Of ninety employers
who replied to this question. forty-x ! said
that the work of nun and women wan
equally valuable ; twenty-nine said the
services- women were of less value ; seven ,
made Indefinite replies , while eight an
swered. "On come work , yes ; on other work ,
nc. " When asked for the reason why women
in general receive less py than tnen for the
came worit , sixty-seven replle-d cs follows :
Twenty-nlno attributed It to the effect of
supply end demand : twenty-one to physical
and mental differences , or differences in
EC.ncrst ability , while seventeen allege eus-
toai a an explanation. The general show
ing of woman's work , however , Is far be
yond what It was ten years ago.
J'H OKITA
One VVniunii Mllh Artlntlc Tnli-nt *
n IlnitilNiuiii' lut-ntiie.
Mlaa Ethel Delle Appel has proved that
she post-esses such qualities as go to make
up a heroine , as well ns a hero. When a
sophomore at college the reverse. ? of fortune ,
so common to a good percentage of in
dividuals , torce-d her to leave her clma
mater and start out to make a career for
herself.
Miss Appel Irft her home In Jleadville
Pa. , and like Dick Wittlngton of eld. made
her way to the great metropolis , not of
London , but of Philadelphia. Here she
establlahe-d her home in what , without great
exaggeration , might have been termed a
garret , and .therein planted the seeds of n
phenomenal success 1n the practical world
of art. She enrollesd herself a student at the
Academy of Fine Arts , and also at the School
of Dculgn for Women , having always had
a penchant for art. and se't herself to labor
night and day at her chosen profession.
About this time a friend In Cleveland
MISS ETHEL BELLE APPEL.
wrote ; Inquiring If she could recommend
any one to do Illustrating for advertisements.
and feeling that this w = s her e > pprtumt ) ,
Mifs Appel seized It and started for Cleve
land at once.
She proved the right person , and wee
Euetosfiful In all her undertakings , combin
ing illustrated newspaper work with her
regular occupation. She remained two
years and then turned her face toward New-
York.
At first came the usual discouragements
attendant on all youthful fortune heekers.
She began the saint- work she had left off
in Cleveland , but that being em an un-
catlsfactory plane the determined to try her
hand at a book cover d > lgn.
After that fortune smiled and orders came
In thick and fast. She is now doing book
covers for all the best publishing houses
in New York and living in the > greatest
comfort.
Miss Appel asserts that this new pursuit
for women is one that requires tact and
practical common t.cupe , at ) well as a little
knowledge of business principles.
"My branch needs practical originality , "
she declares. "Many designs offered on the
market are good , and have artistic merit ,
but they cannot be easily applied to t la
dle , or stamp cut in brass , from which
the covers are printed. Some- publishers
require ) a design to fit a book's title ; others
only want a noticeable cover that will at
tract attention. I have to hold myself to the
front and meet all demands. "
This young worker keeps In touch with
the binders as well as tbi * publishers , and
goes about continually examining the new
cloths and noting the latest novelties along
all lines
This branch of art Is a very lucrative
one. For instance , a wall paper pattern
generally takes o week to do , and then
brings frcm $25 to { 50 : while Home book
covers can bet designed In two hours , and
rarely take more than threeor four days
and bring the came prices as the wall paper
or silk declgrs.
A. AVO.MAX Ill'.VTEU.
Ill tin * AVootln fit Muliie Slip
I ) < Mvii n Sjilencllil Ilut-k ,
Mrs. C. D. Pierceof Boston , who has Just
returned from a hunting trip In the Maine-
woods , docs not look at all murdetrous.
Whether uht > Is or not let the spirit of that
Jiuge buck tell and the scores of bt-attB cad
birds whose lives are threatened now that
She has cot her hand In.
' 'It wiu the first living thing I ever fired
t ar.J 1 ki.if.l , t ' she rju" in. . 1 fi..l . ( , 'y
t.i a li'f'.n revorur " 1 w-i 1 u. i..j ! . w
It was w h the r.fie n.y huslauJ fui lno
i-laM Christmas '
| She drew it from it * cover a be-autv r'x '
pout ds Ss r > 5 WtDeht-clrr reie | 'tig ' rifle the
Fieri ( Hsr hardened pistol grip and all the
de-slderata.
"I only began to sbewt about two years
am * , and then with a rifle not my own. 1
shot at targets and learned to break the
neek of a bottle , even when It was bobbing
up and down in the water. Why , a few
week * ago. before we went up Into Maine.
* evea or eight of u * were shooting at a tar
get down at Atlantic. It was u common
fifty-yard target , placed at seventy-five
yards. I hit It seven or eight tlmee and
made the bull's-eyes. Thit was bftter than
any one olsp did ,
"Ne'arly a week before 1 killed ray deer
1 saw one straying near the camp about
dusk. 1 pulled off ray gloves aud reached
for my gun. but he stra > e-d on In the dusk
and 1 did not shoot. 1 was not in the least
nervous , and 1 do not know the feeling of
'hunter's aitt'e. '
" 1 began to hunt in earnest two days be
fore * my shot on October 12 , but 1 did not
nee anything until that d y. We left camp
at about ! 30 a. m. and walked about two or
three miles through the woods , making our
way by compass and not -by the trail. We
came Into the best of the deer country.
"There- were three of us , with the guide.
My husband found a place for tne to sit
half way down a slope In front of a tnnrshy
clearing. Back ol me was the forest and
beyond the marsh the game. Placed as 1
was there was a sple'ndld opportunity to
kill whatever crossed the clearing. I sat be
hind a fallen tree trunk and short bus > bcs.
"My husband and the guide started off
to b.-at up the game. They went In differ
ent directions. I waited about half an
hour. Once I changed my position , but had
to changf back again.
"Then 1 heard a gunshot. It came from
| the dire-etion in which the pulde had 'gone. '
I thought that he 'had shot at a deer , but
1 It Si' ms that he had picked off a partridge
to rellrve the monotony of his tramp ,
tramp.
"Five tclnutes afterward , 1 heard a crack
ling of twigs In the distance to my left , and
then , as the crackling became more audible ,
I eould he r loud breathing or panting.
This continued for some minutes. The
animal was coming toward tne. I did not
feel at all afraid or nervous , "but picked
up my rifle and stood ready to shoot at the
risht lime.
"The crufklng1 came nearer aud the jiant-
Ing crew louder. All at once the deer.
a magnificent buck , came tearing out of the
woods and across the marsh. He was
bounding high over fallen trunks and
bush -a. 1 could tee him as he came ; but
ho could not see me. although he was com
ing almost directly toward me.
"As 1)e approached 1 drew the gun up
to uiy shoulder and made ready to take
him bphind the shoulder , ns 1 had been
directed. But coming so close as he did
the tree trunk cut part of him off from
my view. When he came opposite to me
he TKSM not wore than ten feet away. The
tree covered Just the place 1 wanted , and 1
could only see the head , neck and hind
quarters.
"It was neck or nothing. I aimed at
the neck and fired. To my Intense sur
prise the deer fell aud lay In his tracks. 1
Jerked out the shell and covered him with
my rifle , reedy to put another bullet into
him if ho should become dangerous. Thle
he would have been If I had not fatally
wounded him. But though ho kicked hard
and breatked hard he could not lift his
he.ad.
"There wr.s nothing to do but to put an
end to the deer , and a bullet through the
heart settled hin. I left him with the
guldr- , who was a taxidermist , to cure the
skin cud mount the head and legs. He
was a big deer of. 300 pounds , had five-
prongs to his horns and must have been
about C yean old. "
I-'nsliIiiii .Note * .
Buttons are ttuili used us a drees trim
ming and as raanv as 300 tiny once arc dis
tributed on ont gown.
The dainty ticking now thown for pillows
and mattresses can be utilized artistically
for bed drapery as well.
The sweater worn under her raachlntosh
cape with n rough skirt comprises the up-
to'date girl's rainy-day outfit.
The latebt thing In veils la square-cornered
instead of round , and made ) of fine black
net with wtlte opots.
The most approved felt hats arc ventilated
by a row of silts In the crown : bauds of
velvet or rlbbou cnu lie passed through
them.
White Fill : vests , too. with mirror velvet
reve-rs. are considered quite the thing for
a finish , and lace often appears on these
rough cloths.
Among the elegancies of underwear Is the
corgel and skirt of brocaded silk to match.
The most popular corset is very short in the
bins and low at the top.
The tmall empire puff is a popular sleeve
for evening gowns. Wire IE sometimes used
to make it stand out enough to bold the
cape trimming around theneck. .
Paris Etlll pre-ccrlbes our modes , and , ac
cording to all the latest fatlilnn budget ,
trimmed skirts are gaining1 favor and over-
skirls are promised in the- near future.
A draped belt and a collar of black satin ,
with points of velvet standing out from the
neck , complete the combination , and as black
predominates in the material , the effect Is
charming.
Real Jeweled pins will be much worn In
the hair this season , aud will alr.o be seen
on evening bonnets and drere hats. The
odder the pin , the more U is prized and ad
mired.
Very pretty evening capes are made o
chine silks In dull artistic shades , with
black velvet , flowers over them , ant
trimmed with black fox and jeweled trim
mlng , which repeats the color In the > silk.
The newest belts are of gold galon. will
an oblong enameled buckle. Other pre-ttj
belts are of gold , embroidered with tur
quolse or of chine galen , which has a fain
1-attern of rose and green running through
It.
Loose coats or black velvet are very my-
llsh on the right figure , but for thcte who
cannot wear the shape there are little Jack
ets of velvet fitted cle > fe on the shoulders
and fulled just a trifle at the waist into an
embroidered belt.
Collar bands , as well as ve-sts. are a pretty
flourishing feature of the gowns this t.ea-
son , and they all have some sort of frill
extending all around the neck or across the
back , commencing just In front of the ( are.
A black catlu collar band with pointed
pieces of bright velvet flaring out at the
side and a short , close bow of satin at the
back is very becoming and useful , too , when
lace is too dressy , and tne velvet pieces
can be cut In any shape- suited to the face.
The rather eccentric ftd for wearing live
inse-cts as jewelry seems to be increasing ,
and the Japanese terrapin Is announced as
the latest victim. It is jeported that the
terrapin are being se'nt out of Japan by
thousands to meet the demand in Paris and
New York.
One etyllch gown of black , green and
white raided novelty goods has a. full vest
of thin whitt sill : with two tiny knife plait-
ings down the front , and on cither uldu
there are pointed rcvers and a folded band
of petunia red velvet.
Ve ts of cream lace over white satin are
quite as fashionable as they were last sea
son , and a pretty addition Is a two-Inch
band pf velvet , which forms a pretty con
trast with the material of U - drees , down
eithe-r side , corning out from under the
e'dgei of the bodice and fastened down by
three fancy buttons above the bust on each
side.
side.The
The fashions In gowns just at present are
decidedly pretty , and moderation , except In
eixpeoEc. rules the day , but the diminishing
sleeves and skirts moke ( he future In fashion
He-cm rather uncertain , and the prospect tf
finding a handtiume gown all out of style In
two or three months is not pleasant for any
one but the dressmakers.
The new muffs are very large this season ,
and those made of velvet and brocade-d silks
arc roitnde-d llko n sack at the lower e-dge
and trimmed with velvet bows , bands of fur
and yards of cream lace. Ruches of gauze
ribbon aud artificial flowers are another dec
oration , and birds with outstretched wings
appear on t.omo of the raouflon muffs.
Blottso walsu are as varied and te-cmlngly
as fashionable as ever , and the zouave flour
ishes lu every porslhle form. Ornamental
jackets of loco and beaded nets can be pur
chased in the stores all ready for Ube over
different waists , aud very pretty ones are
made * of black Huso laid in folds and flnlehe-d
on the e-dge with a plaited frill trimmed
with narrow black satin ribbon.
The newest silk petticoats must be very
wide , and to made as to bo full and fluffy ,
f > r he ' , k rt mufti fiarr away an tnu.h t
I st. ! > .o fr ri ' ' .i f > . ' .1 In crJir to br.nif
abi „ ! 'I a fas ! , i , abc tit.M \.rJrrslilrt'
must be n ji ! \ri-v wiJe an1 full S.-mrttme *
a tttlk GoU'ip ' m put on tht < * Urt with rf
tirlnbi-r of I ttu ruffles ailJeJ to the bottom.
Silffi'tur.g inuM be unrJ , tf the material In
soft , to make the nklrtt "stand out. "
t'diiliilitr Notr .
It Is reported that Mrs. Elisabeth
has been elected mayor of the borough of.
Onehungtt. New Zealand.
A large part of the decorative work In the
new Horticultural ball , In 1'hlixdplpula , wag
the work of women , pupil * of the School ol
Industrial Art.
Ml s Nellie Patterson of Mount Carmely
Conn. . ha completed a four-years' appren
ticeship to the machinists' trade. Her speci
alty Is tool making.
The empre * * of Germany has Just roado
up her mind to accompany the emperor
some months hence * upon a visit to the kinc
and queen e > f lloutniiula. after wlilch thej *
will visit the emperor and ctttprees ot
Russia.
Miss Vivian SartorU. daughter ef Mrs.
Nellie Grant Sartorls. Is an extremely at
tractive young girl , who will lie om > t
Washington's most popular cU'butante-s this
winter. She has been educated abroad.
Mrs. Fawertt presided at a woman's suf
frage conference , held In Birmingham. Eng
land. The women advocated that both par
ties should work only for parliamentary can
didates who areIn favor of extending thn
franchise to women.
Miss Muriel Wltaoti. the daughter of
"Tranby Croft" Wilson , Is one of the beau
ties of London at present. She reigns by
virtue of ue-r Jet black hair and eyes ami
olive skin , so different from the general rut >
of British loveliness.
There was a prlre of JlfJO offered not Ions
i > go for the best and simplest Invention.
This prize was carried off by a Mrs. Lot I la
Cox of Blue Springs. Neb. ; the invention was
n work table.
> w. James Marsland Lawton has pre
sented a lu'jiutlful fountain to West Point
as n memorial to her father , the late Gen
eral Robert Anderson , of Fort Sutnter fame ,
and to her husband. She de-slgm-d the foun
tain herself , In lotus flowers aud leaf re
lief.
lief.Dr.
Dr. Mary Dlght. w-ho htta been appointed
house surgeon and physician In charge of
the > Phllade-lphia Women's hospital , Is a
graduate of the Minnesota Medical colle-gi- ,
the. Illinois Medical college and the Michi
gan university. She also has diplomas
from several European schools.
Miss Ella Collins , a pretty New York girl ,
will be the first woman of the Vnlted States
raised to a throne cf marriage. She w .11
shortly become the wife of Colonel John ,
F. Hobbs. who. under the name of Outniiu-
lea , reigns over the semi-barbarous pee
ple-of the Jllka islands , In the New Hebrides
group.
The > best dairy farm In Vermont Is owned
and run by a woman. Mrs. Carrie Nelson ,
a widow , who has managed her farm and
educated her four children since fine was
left alone tblrtein years ago. She lives at
Rycgate. She has been again and again
awarded valuable prizes for her products
Anne Dudley Bradstreet , the first Nrw
England woman who wrote verse worthy
to be called poetry , died 220 years ago in
au old bouse still standing at North An-
dover. She was related to three colon.al
governors being the daughter of Thomas
Dudley , the ulster of Joseph Dudley and
the wife of Simon Bradstreet.
Senorlta Ronlfocio of Monterey , the Mexi
can spinster who has been heralded as the
one-time sweetheart of General Sherman ,
spoils the story by declaring that she ne\er
knew Sherman and that he did not planter
or ever see her giant roaebush with Its gar
den of roecfl. She makes a living by mak
ing drawn work.
Mrs. Bradley-Martin Is one of the leader *
of society In the brilliant American colony
In Paris. He-r social functions are usually
elaborate , and this winter the doings and
sayings of the Dngllsh-Kpcaklng people will
be fully chronicled In a new journal devoted
exclusively to that kind of literature.
Queen Victoria hag Just he-en presented
with a souvenir album containing fifty-seven
portraits of the ruling chiefs and princes
of India and eighty-nix views of their pal
aces and capitols. The- cover Is cashmere- ,
silver repousse work , with appropriate in
scription. The book Is Oriental in style
throughout , aud is In a casket of elaborate
workmanship.
Klcliaret curzon rouHuey , Jivpbrw of John
Blgelow of New York and West Point , who
Is now In England , has patnte-d a miniature
of Lady Beatrice Butler , daughter of Lady
Ormonde , and granddaughter of the duke of
Westminster. Her engagement to the young
marquis of Waterford Is announced.
The dowager duchcrs of Manchester maybe
bo said to be the pioneer of American heir
esses in this country. She had not to many
dollars as the women who have come after ,
but she had more than the usual share of
beauty , grace and wit. Her maiden name , as
all society knows , was Consuelo Yznaga and
[ .ho was one of the most noted and popular
belles of New York , when Viscount Mande-
ville wooed and won her In 1STC.
'
* v srT/
' Wi'-yP * ' r
-
r ' ' * Vi'X '
v0' * i/ * * *
, l
Medicioo
When thff hair begins to fall out and lose Us
lur.trc and beauty l > y turuinn 17n > y or ludcd , what
more tii < Kuccis ju-tU-.d to proc that its health
is oficcted ? mid that it needs jnt-dicir.t ? No
more. I i..s.urc : you , furtlicrc is a cause for every
ryrajitom tli.t the liairfrnct of tun.inp gray or
lor-iug Us beauty in any form. Tor us the hair Is
n part of the human body , it is Eut.jru to ailment
r.s v.-cll nr. nay other part , nnd thciefore hhould
be treated intelligently. Hut contrary to tins
coniraon-i.ense loTic , no Rreatcj inhult or worse
Abuse c-ould be lic-nped upon tins dtfcusrk-hs
nictnbcr o [ our person than tlic uecof hair dye.
To color the poor sick hair with hair dye. und
Ihcrcl'v drov/u itn feeble cry for nourishment. | >
la ittelf a 1.111 and a rnmtairainst nature , bhanie
on ignorant humanity that will not yield to the
laws of nature aaU study the accdc ol their own
body.
body.Mute.M.Yale's
Hair Tonic
It n medicine for curlnc eicU hair. It is the only
remedy on re-cord known to tcstorr the natural
color to fjrey hair. It nourisho the routs and
gives circulation to thr ell ducts , prrineatini ; It
with nature's own coloring matter that lluws
through the channels of the hair when it is in an
healthful state ns faithfully as the r.-ann blood
docs through our veins.
Mine. Yale's Hair Tonic Is the result of a care
ful analysis of the human hair by Mme Yale ,
that wonderful woman chemist uud hcirntin ,
whoguarantecE Yale's Huir Tonic to contain pre
cisely the natural constituents of the hair's own
matter prepared in a thcmicul form. It ttopi
ll't hair falling in from twenty-four hours to one
week. Cures UandrutT , coltcnt dry , harsh hair ;
makes the lair hoft. glossy nnd flufiy , Lrepn it
in curl , and cures all manner ol scalp eliseacc :
nt.d hair ailments , producinc n growth ol lururt-
iiut hair of Iti own rich , nuturcl rolur , no mattes
what that may be hlue-k.hlouiU ur brown.
I-'or children and adults mUci > or females ,
$ i.to prr buttle ; six for (5.00. ( )
it Mi : . M. VAIX , Ihmutr end Oomt.l'lIoL Rec
1 m | > lu b ! Ueuutr , M oUl fitted ,