THE OMATTA DAILY HTF : MMMV , VOVEMllEH 8. 1890. 11
l l
OF WOMAN.
MIOW
X fir ml i\tillill of rintlir. ii Well no
Smart lliir i < ftri li.
NEW YORK. NOY. ! . Klch and beautiful
will be the raiment In which fa hlondom
Hi-Ill ihortly dl porl lUelf at the horse thow.
For ome time winter gowns hare been
seen and worn , but It taken the occasion
at thU annual function fur smart winter
toggery to burst Into Its finest flower , an > !
sd give the common world a chance to see
what winter clothe * really are. This year ,
as u ual. the ibow is advertised to lait
only a week , doling about November 17 ;
but It will be a wetk of tremendous Impor
tance for the tashlon-raakers , anil TO much
a feature of It has floe dressing become that
it really sems now is If the name of the
exhibition should bo clothes show Instead
of horse show.
At all of the smart drecemaklng estab
lishments finishing touches arc being put
to splendid gowns created for this especial
occasion.
The milliners too are ohowlng horse show
hats , the furriers horse shn v wraps , and ,
to Judge fron. the pita : names dropped here
A FELIX COMPOSITION
and there socletv Is to be as well reprc
ented this scaicn ax ever
A BELLE MODEL.
Some beautiful Importations In gowns and
wraps were shown by i well known Fifth
avenue house. With the gowns great
changes wcro observed In the cut "of skirts ,
which. In wool and cloth Instances , are now
qulto narrow as compared with those of
even two months ago. A bell model with
only three scams is a favorite one for sklrta
in these stuffs whether made plainly or
trimmed. The shape of this Is somewhat "on
the order of the old circular skirt , except
that there Is a narrow front gore to give
a llttlo stand off fling at the bottom. Sides
and back are In oue the backs meeting
in a bias team , but where one of these skirt *
will have the back arranged In several In-
turning plaits , another will be folded into
two big godets , held la place underneath bj
tapes.
Ono charming little bell skirt in the Im
ported collection bad neither plaits nor
godets at the back. It was extremely nar
row and cut up back and front In such an
umbrella fashion that It met without ful
ness , fitting the hips skin tight , and hang
ing about the feet in an easy slightly stiff
ened circle.
SUMPTL'OUS TRIMMINGS.
In the way of materials , the gowns shown
for horse show service revealed the fact
that plain cloth Intends to stay in , all the
talk against It at the beginning of the
season notwithstanding. But all faced
clothes are made lighter weight than for
merly and with the narrower skirt little
stiffening is used so that a cloth gown Is
not now the deadly thing It once waa.
Velvet and rich tinsel and silk em
broideries trim the plain clothes with su
perb effect. A gown of pale brown may
be trimmed with green , the velvet band
on the skirt bottom cut out In arabesques
at the top. and appllqued to the cloth with
a magnificent embroidery in several colors
A tiny bolero entirely of the embroiders
on velvet may coter a second one of cloth
on the bodice , the bodice proper , and
eleeves perhaps , being made of the velvet
A Paquln frock realized in these materials
colors , and style was capped by a satin
girdle In bright gold yellow with a long
bias end crossing the front and pinning
high at the left bust. Girdle and short
, -c
DAHLIA COLORED MOIRE.
jacket effects mark the majority of French
street frocks ,
But the jackets are simple andjimall and
the girdles of medium height , five Inches
at utmost , so that non-exaggeration may
bo said to be the mark of the French frock
and the sign manual of the meat perfect
makers of the world.
The American copy is somehow always
carried a little further , more la the pity ,
and d pravlty of our tastra. And so much
is this national fondness for running every
thing In tbe ground recognized In Paris
that the French fashion In Its most Ideal
hape ta rarely shown the raw American
buyer.
ELOQUENT EXAMPLES
At the Fifth avenue boose mentioned
were ceen gown * euch as Frecch women
wear. Some uf the best makers were rep-
rwenttd , Felix , Doucet. Paquln , RaudnHi
and all tbe rest of them , each toilet revealIng -
Ing some special creation In cut or color of
its celebrated falt ur Out of a number of
these fine winter frock * Imported for the
horse fthow. fer the smartest women of tbe
city , a few were selected as the best
examplfe They are Illustrated on this page
and may be recognised ac follows1
A toilet en trane of dahlia-colored rnolre
Is for a young married woman of blonde
coloring. The silk Is In a pale dahlia , with
pink reflections : the train detni-length , ap
plications of Hcniton point lace form an
apron effect at the front gore of the skirt.
The bolero bodice , of the lace over deep
purple s tln. Is girdled by a wide corslet
bolt of the lame. The vest te also of lace ,
the sleeves of moire finished by a band of
sealskin , which also trims the bottom of the
skirt and the top of the high color.
This pown with Its delicate evenlnsr col
oring and dark fur. tva * dellshtful. Many
otl ers in i le t.nt . and even the airiest
evening affairs showed somber fur trim
mings , with such a regal effect , that cne
felt Inclined to thank the llltle czar of
Rujsl.i for having given us thl * fashion.
COSTUMES EN REGAL.
A costume In pal ? brown velvet. Just the
shade of an. almond's huck. was made xUh :
entre-ilcus of heavy white lace bordered
narrowly with Russian sable. The skirt
of this Is a tor > narrow bell with the l.ice
Insertions disposed In points to form a
tablltr effwt. B4.use > bodice and gizot
sleeves In one piece , ornamented in the
same way. The lining Is ol maize slik.
which ghes a gold reflection to the lace
and enhances the richness of the fur ede
This toilet was a Felix composition. lc-
slgtied for a young lady of brunette com
plexion.
A magnificent costume In velours brocade
bore Paquln's stamp Thouch joung in
effect , thla had a stately look befitting Its
splendid material ? The white silk back
ground of tljp gown stuff Is lined with i--
regular stripe : la rafted black velvet. The
trimming Is white broadcloth , embroidered
with Jet and forming a shirt jacket with
jHitllloni at the back , and a wKle band
at the bottcm o' the klrt. The clo e
sleeves of tbe brocade arc widened at tbe
shoulders by big bows of black velvet and
the girdle Is of the same.
BODICE ARRANGEMENT.
The two remaining frocks give a pair of
simple and becoming ways of arranging a
bodke sc It can b worn without a wrap
Fcr of ocure , except in ettremest weather
these much-befurred bodice * are not to be
o\ered up A fur cravatte with the sev-
ral 'ails now exacted will muffle the thpiat.
ant on bitter days a chamois underbuy
orab" added underneath , hut ulth terse
xcfptlons the fur-trimmed body must take
all the responsibility of the cold weather
< -n it ! , own sbxulders. If. howeter , the
ffect of the other trimming accords , a
allet or narrow shoulder cape with a high
stand-up collar of tbe fame skin , may be
added
With a costume of dragoon-blue cloth
iho fur on the bodlco takes tbe form of a
sleet eless bolero of deeply marked mink.
The corsage is of the cloth with a larse
plait shaped at tbe frout , tbe folded belt
VELOCRS BROCADE AND JETTED
BROADCLOTH.
Is of the same. Introducing other folds of
satin In tbe brown of the fur.
High fur collar , medlcl shape , and cloth
sieves in one piece , with fullness held
down at the top by two mink skins folded
In bands and finished with beads. Tbe
skirt has a bell front with three godets at
the back. It is finished with thtee narrow
folds of the cloth with stitching of brown.
HORSE SHOW WRAPS.
The wraps shown with the horse show-
frocks were exclusively frivolous affairs.
Mere collets , the most of them little frills
of velvet or fur. and so bedecked with lace ,
ribbon and flowers that It could be plainly
seen they were for beautifying purposes
alor.e.
But enormous capes of monkey skin , sable
and other furs will be worn with street
gowns later on. Though wider , and com
ing below the waist line , these have some
thing of tbe look of the old coachman af
fairs worn several years ago.
One of these big monkey skin capes , and
a vast muff to match , will be found a hand
some and useful winter purchase. With
u plain cloth gown in any rich color they
are extremely effective. NINA FITCH.
t'TIMZIXG OI.I ) JUWnLIIV.
llotr Otmolete Trcnxure Mny lie Matle
Ilraiitlfii ! .
There are perhaps few of us who have
not on band quite a collection of old jewelry ,
which we occasionally take a look at , and
sigh over , because there seems no avallablo
way of utilizing It. for the antique gold
brooches , dangling earrings and wonderful
bracelets of thirty or more years ago stand
little fbow of being again made fashionable
by our modern workers in gold and jewels.
There are/ however , several wajs in whick
these obsolete treasure * may bo made to
lerve a purpose both useful and beautiful.
The huge oval brooch , for Instance , worn
by your mother , -will make a beautiful frame
for a miniature or other small picture , if
the collection of human hair or other curious
center is taken out.
Then there are those terrible silver man
acles which we wore quite cheerfully our
selves not eo very long ago. A dainty use
for theje. and one which'will commend It-
svlf to all who like something unique for
their toilet tables , Is merely to transform
them tntd pincushions. First clean tbe
bracelet thoroughly and then elue tbe lower
edge very firmly onto an oval shaped piece
of cardboard. When the bracelet has etuck
well , cut the board to the extreme edge
and proceed to make your cushion. Thfc
must be oral of course , and can be filled
with bran.
Then slip the remaining bangles over the
cushion at equal distances apart. The
cushion need not be glued to the card
board Inside , for It Is better left free to
come in and out. when the silver rims can
be easily cleaned.
Every woman who can afford thsm and
a creat many who cannot are buying gold
and Jeweled hatpirj Why not make an
unbearable pair of earrings Into beautiful
and original hatpins * Only recently I
saw two such , one made of the "tops" fas
tened together back to back , and tte other
of one of the "drops. " The earrings In
question were very old fashion ? d , repre
senting serpents in gold with ruby eyes ;
but in an altered form they are as much
admired now as In the days when they
served as decorations to a grandmother's
pretty ears.
One of the most original ways of turnIng -
Ing unwearable jewelry into a thing of
beauty was confided to me by a clever
friend the other day. I noticed she was
wearing one of the new chatelaines , with
only a set of tablets and a tiny chain purse
suspended from 1t , the whole being cf gold.
When the proud possessor told me It had
cost her something under { S. I refused to
be convinced until she made the following
revelation- The large clasp at the waist
was merely a solid gold brooch of elaborate
design and workmanship which had been
put away for some twenty years , and the
two narrow chains which hung from it
had originally been tbe pair of bracelets
to match. From one of these depended a
flat gold locket of Incredible size , which
had been unbinred. slightly cut at the
edges and furnished with It cry for n.aklng
notes on , and a tlnv gold pencil. From
the other hung a real old chain purse ( re-
gilt of course ) the whole forming a most
iitilque chatelaine.
THI : HUM \-\TIC crm. .
It linn HfMirneil nntl l Pnlllnsr ( Her
Fair MionliltT * .
The curl Is a decided feature of this sen-
son's coiffure Not tbe curl In the mid
dle of the forehead or on the nape of Use
neck , either waved tress or frlzette Is meant
by this , but a rcund glossy , cylindrical
< url unbroken In outline and capable of
bobbing" in captivating fashion with each
mo"n of the wearer. "Wearer" is ihe
correct term , for many of these curls are
pu : on and do not grow on the heads they
ornament.
There are coiffures for the street with
dalntv short curia cropping out in all di
rections from among the soft colls. The
ends of the figure "debt" are left t3 curl
tn carefully unstudied order , a trim Psyche
knot finishing the "eight" at the top ; again
the back hair Is braided and turned up.
the ends being brought down again and
passed through the bottom of the braid to
fall in two or three ringlets. All this is
for the street , or a simple homo toilet , h-it
no evening coiffure to be worn with full
dress will be complete without a curl or
two falling on the neck. Then. too. it must
be noted that extremely high hair dress
ing is altogether "out ; " In no ce e < t--v s
the coiffure tower above the forehead as
formerly. The crown of the hi-id rat it r
far back Is where the center of the coils
and puffs must be pitched , and ever ? wonftn
who Is her own hair dresser kncwa the
Importance of getting this base of opera
tions established In just the right spot.
If either too high or too low the result
is disastrous
The three or four inch long curl Is a dis
tinctive addition to an evening coiffure. It
enhances the fairness of a pretty neck and
captivates the fancy. Twenty or thirty
years ago every young or fashionable woman
wore a solitary curl straying coquettishly
over her left shoulder or brought over to the
front to wander among the jewels and laces
on her corsage. The curls In those days
provided Inspiration for susceptible poets ,
and although the curl of this season has
attained no great length , yet it Indexes what
Is to come , and It is safe to predict that
the verse-makers will again have a chance.
There Is no denying that there Is a charac
ter expression in a curl , one curl win be
airy and frivolous looking , another lachry
mose and drooping ; yet another audacious.
Yes. there are curls and curls , and w.e are to
have all sorts.
A THIIIFTV UMPHKSS.
The Iiinirtlc * Oiitle * of flip ICnl orln
if ( : TIIIIIH > .
A book explaining "How to Be Happy.
Though a Queen. " would undoubtedly find
large sales in all European courts except
that of tbe empress of Germany She Is
oue of tbe few feminine crowned heads who
might truthfully be described as finding as
much solid homely contentment in her hus
band's palaces as any honest workman's
wife In her vine-clad cottage.
This Is a good deal more than can be
said for her sister majesties who , probably
with the exception of Queen Vletr-rla and
tbe jolly little girl who will some day rule
Holland , are a weary and unsatisfied class
of women , at least their faces bear all tbe
marks of rather peevish discontent and un
satisfied longings. Not so , however , does
Empress Augusta Victoria , who was never
an heiress In her girlhood , who at IS wan
told to marry a young man deeply In love
with another woman and who between a
clever , critical mother-in-law and her hua-
i
' u 5 . , 1 , h y
o fill i ' at * h' (31 , rta. , .i.k.ur > ai > 'h.rR
but a Sod of msrt , .
All her early years PrInceeXfVbgueta spent
with her mother and filters It.the modest. I
not to say fraeal. court of Itonig. for her j
father , the grand duke of ScUfeVk-Holiteln. I
was poor In all but pride and Ins wife and
daughter * practiced the most rife Id economy j I
The prince * * wa * taught to cflAK and eew. to ' 1
carry the ke > . give out tht. cftan linen , to' ' I
play the piano , a bit on th violin , to
speak English and French ant ] &jr Lutheran
catechfem.
Ten to one be never thought about lovers
or marriage until the moat flattering offer
arrived for her hand , from Jbe court of Ber
lin. ' , . , „
A ROYAL ROM.VNCE.
Undoubtedly the match was. from a worldly
point of view , excellent , but there were bit
ter words and almost a tragedy behind the
fiatterlag offer When the present emperor
of Germany was at the most susceptible point
In his career he fell In love , and It was char
acteristic of the young man that he fell
wildly and desperately , choosing for the
object of his adoration tbe beautiful elder
sister of the ctarloa. who Is now the grand
duchtfjs Serge of Russia.
Of course this was all very fine and ro
mantic , but state policy came before hearts
and as there would be nothing to * aln by
marrying the heir of the German throne tea
a prince's of Hesse Darmstadt. Bismarck
told Emp ror William It wouldn't do at all
The old emperor , of course broke the news
A GROl'P OF HORSE SHOW TOILETS.
to his grandson , who stormed and sulked ,
finally promised obedience and when asked
to look about and select some other nice
young princess broke out -nrith :
"Choose whom you like ; It is absolutely
the same to me , 89 long as H'Js not one of
the English lot. "
Of course this -was just what the Iron
chancellor wanted , and to heal the long
standing breach betweeen the Holstelners
and the Prussians he proposed for tbe
Princess Augusta's hand and Prince Wil
liam went a-woolng Naturally he did not
find In his prospective bride any such
rare beauty and accomplishments as his
Hessian cousin possessed , but at any
rate he did meet an amazingly robust , sen
sible young woman with the freshest pink
and white skin , nice blue e > es , fair hair and
a charmingly amiable temper.
THE PRINCESS' PATIENCE.
Moreover she endured his cool courtship
with a great deal of dignity and was quietly
married to htm in 1SS1 at the Schlois chapel
of Berlin on a cold February day. After
that her trials began In earnest for In
trigue was rife at the German court. Bis
marck and the Crown Princess Frederick
were svrorn enemies and Prince William took
a prominent part In all these doings , but
his wife triumphed In the end. She re
mained the same cheerful , busy , amiable
young woman of her girlhood days , healed
WjRVJy KS = .
iM y F s * * *
t
< r 4 ! tjf .3 > 3
. .
?
THE EMPRESS OF GERMANY.
quarrels by a mild word at the right time
and presented her husband In turn with five
rosy sturdy boys.
In whatever palace she may be stopping
her days are as carefully laid out as those
of her husband , and from her own waiting
maids to the scullions ne keeps an eye on
every sertant. Unless confined to her bed
b > Illness the empress ii iditarlably up by
C every morning and S o'clock1 finds her pourIng -
Ing the emperor coffee This meal their
majesties take quite alone , serving each
other and gossiping together like any middle
class couple and at 9 sharp her royal high
ness may be expected In jthe nurseries. The
needs of seven young iolk"require a keen
eje of superintendence and the empress Is
passionately fond of ( pending time and
money on her children' , * clothes.
It is the kalserln's oqe extravagance
that she is constantly replenishing their
wardrobes , looking over chlllren's fashions
sent her from Paris , London and New York ,
but ordering every garnient , made by Ger
man needle women B , very-stitch of the
elaborate layettes provjdedu for her seven
babies nhe and her sisters have laid in and
embroidered , and by 10 o'clock the royal
housekeepers are received. Lists of dishes
for the luncheon tnd dinner of the day are
handed her and at her discretion , always
with an eye to her husband's preferences ,
the menus are chosen. After the menus are
selected she considers household bills and
then writes her own letters.
DAILY DUTIES.
All this while that ebe is presiding in the
nursery the kalserln wears a soft white
morning gown , a good deal on the wrapper
pat'ern. and a vast white apron , and the
children looked after , she investigates her
beloted linen closet. No one but herself Is
allowed to give out even the most modest
duster , and on shelves , reaching to the cell
ing , are stored vast hoards of white bolts ,
heapa of snowy table and bed clothes suf
ficient ' to supply many families. By 11
o'clock the empress dresses for a drive -with
her * husband , or a walk with her children ,
and at 1 'the ' entire royal family meet at
luncheon.
ThU U strictly a fatally feast , and after
I- h the youSRs'irs ha , * ai hjur or tn r
w 'h thir ( .an ns : or a' * .taj ( < i. .1 3 > I k
TJirn In a quiet reieptlm toilet the im1
preR 1 < at home In her drawing room * to
callers. No great formality reigns. Women
come to pay their respects , open phllan-
thralc schemes , and every one who teemi
throplc scheme * , and every one who seetni
Is permitted to eater.
At dinner I * announced , and this I * th
grand meal of the day. The empree * then
appears In full state toilet and many jewels.
The company Is always large and brilliant ,
a page In splendid cottume stands behind
every second chair , and bwtde each plate is
aid. not only the menu printed In German.
> ut a program of the music discoursed
hrouehout the feast The foot ! U sure to
M > good , and a great deal of Wagner's , SutI
Iran's. Weber's and Dellbe s harmonies rtoc
from the Icvtalble orchestra , composed of
no leas than twenty-four pieces.
A VFITMAN IIKUMIT.
Mir I.lvril on n lonrl > I lnn < t for Sev
enteen } cnr .
During the prr ent summer the writer ( a
correspondent of the New Y < vk Sun ) made
the attempt to land on the Island of San
Nicolas , an almost barren taa s of sand
lying sixty miles off the coast of Southern
California , the extreme outlying point of
the coast. We passed the little Island of
Santa Barbara late In the afternoon , and
at o'clock were five miles from the outer
island. This was about seven miles long ,
and In portions SCO feet hlch. Around the
summit of Its low hills a bank of cloud had
gathered , and piece by piece waa being torn
away by a gale that had gathered so rapidly
that after lying to for five hours in an at
tempt to weather it out. we were forced to
bear away and run before It under a close-
rcefeJ foresail for a Ice sixty mllt-s away.
This Island lies in an area of constant
gales , and Is almost unapproachable except
luring the calm periods ol the winter , and
en then , owing to the storms that sud-
! enly rise. It is a dangerous place for
. achts. Notwithstanding this. San Nicolas
ass bad within two centuries a vigorous
native population , and with Its barren
shores la associated a true story that bears
all the essentials of a romance of the Cm-
eoe order. Within the present century the
laat of the natives were taken ai ore by
crd r of the priests at the Santa Barbara
mission , under Instructions frtm the Mtxl- .
fan government. The Indians had been I
living there from time Immemorial sub i
sisting on fi h ( and she-lltoh ) . with whlh j
the waters abound. A veseel was sent to
theUland and all the Indians fere taken
aboard with the exception of cne woman ,
whose child or chlldrta had been forgotten
It la believed that a cale was coming on.
and that the skipper found hte little craft
In Ainger. and so put off. Others say that
the woman was purposely deserted. In
any event , the boat sailed away leaving her
standing alone on the beach , and being
"only an Indian woman. " It probably mat
tered llttlo to the other hunters , who were
clad to get away from the rough * .
When the Indians were landed at cants
Barbara It was said to be the Intention of
the captain to return and rescue the woman
But not long after the ship was wrecked ,
and sa the montbs and years slipped away ,
and the story of the lost woman became-
almoat a legend her appearance often be
ing pictured by the story tellers of the day
and her one quaint cry of "Manetjauna"
being repeated to credulous listeners. Sev
enteen > eers went by. and the woman was
almost forgotten , until finally Padre Gon-
zales. excited by curiosity to learn her fate
hired a resident of Santa Barbara to make
a careful search fcr her. and a a result
three unsuccessful trips were made to the
fe land On the last Captain Ntderer took
several Indians , and after several attempts
succeeded In landing. They soon found evi
dence that some one lived on the Island
discovering a basket containing feathers.
This they dUturbed. and on visiting it the
following day found the feathers replaced
It was eildent that the woman was avoid
ing them , so they formed a line as well as
they could across the Island and marched
In regular order 200 yards apart. Even then
they could not find her. and It was only
when they had nearly given up the hunt
that one of the party anally stumbled upon
three huts and the woman , who was sitting
on the ground , with a wild dog beside her.
which growled fiercely at the strangers.
The man signaled to the others , and the
entire party was soon gathered about the
woman , -who bad lived a life as remarkable
as that of Crusoe. She could not under
stand a word that was said The Indians
of the party thinking that she was a sacred
pcrsoj. fell on their knees before her She
was a comely woman. 40 or 50 years of age.
dressed In skins of sea birds or shags ,
which were fastened to sealskin. About her
were baskets cleverly made , and to the
windward of her but. which was made of
the ribs of a whale , she had built a wind-
rake of brush and grass She had dishes of
stone , in which she ground roots of various
kinds , and her clothes were sewed with
thread made from sealskin and with needles
from the bci.es of birds She consented to
go aboard the vessel and was carried to
Santa Barbara v 1th all her belongings ,
which were considered great curiosltlts. her
dress of skins being sent to Rome to the
pope.
At Santa Barbara she lived In the family
of one of her rescuers , and though Indians |
from all over the state visited her no one
could be found who could understand her.
She was a perfect child , playing for hours
at a time , and making eigns which could
not be Interpreted. She was baptized and
given a Spanish name and at her death was
burled in the old mission graveyard having
survived the change from savage to civilized
life less than two months.
\vonic ron K.vnt
Here An * Some Illnto for Mnlilner IIol-
lilit ) Gift * .
"If you want to look right sew your but
tons on tight" Is the motto painted in water
colors on a novel button bag that is being
finished for the holidays. The main part of
this bag Is one-half yard of two-Inch ribbon ,
and its construction is quite simple. Fold
the ribbon In half , and In the fold place a
spool of patent shoe thread ; above It on the
silk lightly mark a line in order that when
a row of machine stitching Is run across
the spool will be held in place , but not so
lightly that the thread cannot be unwound
Above the thread pocket make a similar
pocket for the paper of needles , then one
for the scissors , and above this join the
sides of the ribbon to form a small bag.
Turn down the rough edges of the ribbon
and make a narrow casing In which a
small cord Is to be run This not only draws
up the little button bag , but serves to hang
up the entire article. To the back of the
bag attach six buttonholed leaves of white
flannel for the needle-book The motto can
first be outlined en the ribbon with a soft
pencil and then embroidered in with silk.
Bright red and olive green make a dainty ,
pretty bag
Papers that accumulate In odd corners
are often a sourca of despair to the thrifty
housewife , and I am sure that such a
newspaper case as I saw the other day would
be of the greatest use. as It Is large enough
to hold a quantity of papers. It Is quite
decorative , and one might be put in every
bedroom , as well as in the library or sit
ting room. To make such a case a yard of
fancy matting In rich , deep colors Is re
quired. The selvedged edges form the sides ;
the rough edges are somewhat dlfScult to
manage , and the best way Is to turn them
down and fasten them along at regular In
tervals with patent brass fasteners , clenchIng -
Ing them on the wrong side. Trim off the
ends of the straw neatly Turn up the
lower end and tack It to the back with twine
and a carpet needle , and finish the sides
with large bows of satin ribbon , attach
ing two big brass rings at the top , by which
to hang up the case Decorate the front
with a bunch of dried grasses or work
"Papers" across It with heavy worsted.
A piece of satin fifteen inches wide and
ten inches deep forms a charming sewing
bag. This Is to be folded in half and sewed
up the side and bottom. The portion form
ing the top Is cut to fashion four tabs two
and a half Inches la depth. The bag Is
lined throughout with silk or satin , forming
a sort of binding at the top of the tabs ,
and Is drawn up by ribbon run through a
casing. The sides are trimmed by bows of
ribbon and frills of lace , and on the front
Is embroidered the initial of the person
for whom the bag Is Intended , surrounded
by an Empire wreath. This bag develops
prettily In black ami blue satin , with lace.
A handsome case for a writing pad is of
white linen , mounted on a pasteboard foun
dation , twelve by eight Inches. The front Ir
daintily decorated with pink clover dentIn
water colors , and & pink tnolre ribbon holds
i
'be [ al la lu- > nr wl. * I1 as a ' 3.v at
Irte toj to i nt--01 1 \tfi ht " t i ' \ ,
1 prr aud un Icr side * are loop * of leather for
bol Hr.a pn * nd pencil * n < l for binding the
eorers together.
A pretty banging letter bolder b awful
for the desk and I * elly m le Th * beck
Is cut from cardboard fancifully rhapeU
and roverrit with plain cllk. elaborately em
broidered with bower * In embroidery UV
To this section Is attached a pocket of bright
flsrurcrl llk , gathered nf r the top ta form
I a frill , and ftnlaetl al the bottom with ? ilk
) i U se : . The holder to ornmnfntrd at top
and side ? by boms of wide satin or ltk rlb-
bon.
I 1 At the matinee the other dar I noticed a
I dainty trifle that contributed to the com
' fort of It ! pretty owner , who kept In It her
op ra pUfses. vlnalcrette. handkrn-blrf. coin
I
purse and bonbonnlere I looked closely at
{ the Mr and will tell you how It was maJe
The bottom wa < a circle of pule creen bra-
cade , about five Inches In diameter The
sides ofelvrt , measured about thirteen
Inches In depth and about twenty-one Inches
! ' In width. These nere plaited on the circle *
| the two ends joined up. and the top was
turned oxer three Inches to form a frill He-
1 low this n s a raaln * . through which was
. run velvet ribbon one Inch In width , to draw-
( i up the tag. Dernrntlnc ; the sides and con
cealing the openinca where the drawstring *
i
[ came out were two bows of wider ribbon
! I and over the velvet point d'esprlt lace was
| arranged. In double box-plaits , the upper
j odce tacked to the velvet frill to keep It In
an upright position. The bag win lined with
I ' pale preen China silk , and the Front-by dec-
t oration put on as a finishing touch wji a
spray of pink silk chrj anthvmuras.
Pa hi n n Note * .
The new moires are something to wonder
over.
Dress skirts are cut narrower on the fronts
and silos and certainly many of the winter
bklrtx are to be trimmed.
Tln > dots are on new repped goods that
are woven of double cord width In russet ,
gray-blue , olive-gray or black.
Many of th ? silks and satin brocades aru
over | > atterr.ed and color-mixed to the extent
of vulgarity , cost what they may.
CbeUots and vigognes have two colors , one
of which iscry often brown , as a blue
diagonal alternating with che&tnut. or else
green with tan or russet brown.
Fur barn's , slllr p ! t'mentiric < , en ap-
pllque velvet bands , pipings. polt.U. and
blocks , rows of gtinp. braid ana velvet rib
bon < x > tistltule tome of the new skirt decora-
tloas. '
Corded silks and silk sud wonllen rpp
are once more In fashionable favor. Fur
durability and handsome appcaraace few ma
terials can compare with the silk-warp
repped wools.
Pale sitlr.s with broad blocks of black
satin are sprigged with ( eaves , shamrocks ,
apple bljsbotus End chrysanthemums In
short , the season's motto hecms to be
" "
"Excess
Striking bonnets In deep empire green ,
cerise , or Spanish yellow , are laid in fine
folds from side to side , alternating with
fine jet or bronze bead braid , giving a pretty
effect of stripes.
For theater wear are pretty velvet capos
with very flaring Medici collars , trimmed
with ostrich feathers and llucJ with color
like the cape , and a. smart little bonnet
matches thlc lining in hue.
Many of the fancy wools are woven In
f-.vj colors , threads of heavy silk outlining
the wool figure Green wools have markings
and uudtrweaves of Danish red. while brown
Is similarly woven with blue or dahlia red
Fur and vrhet are In crest vogue , but
these two elegant materials should always
be used la volume and never cut up into
snippets and "gingerbread work" that add
little In the way of warcth. and reallv b *
mean these textiles.
A city bridesmaid recently wore with it
rose-pink satin eo n a plcure 1 at of cream-
white velvet the brim near the head showing
a lining of shell-pink satin , the bat rolled
somewhat at the left side , and come soft
brautlful white ostrich plumes dropped over
Its tdge.
Plain Venetian and "faced" cloth of ex
quisite fineness Is reckoned among the
fabrics suitable for very stylish and elegant
visiting and dinner gowns , and Its light
weight allows of more d < * llcate colors being
used for day ccetumcs than It would be
possible In a less heavy textile.
Ingenious minds have come to the rescue ,
to aid In producing new guises for once
despised fur , and now the skunk fur , wholl )
deodorized , passes for "Alaska sable , " and
the humble rabbit , deeply dyed , comes tc
the fore under several crptlvatlng titles
Some of the metamorphosed fur might de-
reive even an expert. It looks so exactly
what It is not ' .
Regardless of the time of year , violets
June roses yellow daffodil * jonquils aurt
shaded apple blossoms In velvet appear upon
bats and bcnuets for late autumn and
winter wear. Rce clusters without Jollace
and dangling single blossoms and buds In
termixed with feather tips and plumes droop
over the hst brims and are closely massed
ou a crown-bandeau on black and dark
sreen or ruby velvet models.
The Ktyllsh and rich-looking silk and wool
mixtures will be larcely employed In the
making of church , visiting and promenade
costumes for thf winter In Its weaving
the silk threads are thrown almost wholly
on the surface of the goods and a rich
lustrous effect produced. Some of the
fabrics are in handsome shaded effects ,
others show a mixture of Danish red. mosp-
green. and black , amber brown violet and
reseda , gray , golden olive , and dahlia red
etc
Again the ribbon weavers have great caunr
for elation. The looms are flying , for ribbons
bens are to bo used all winter , and par
ticularly during the holiday season , when
leagues and tons of ribbons are utilized
Wide rtbtxnfi will again flow from the nape
of the neck nearly to the skirt hem a la
Watteau. on evening toilets Rosettea
ruches , choux , coqullle pleatlnga frills or
ribbon , aud sashes , narrow , medium and
wide , tied In front , a 1'Emplre , at the side
en chatelaine , or at the back , will be the
rage.
A beautiful black moire has a handsome
design which gleams with a lovely phos
phorescent green. Another In some won
derful way has caught a reflection of pink
lights. The delicate evening tints are all
represented. While moires radiate golden
lights , and are brocaded with shaded gold
blossoms , pale sky blue patterns and Illumi
nated with shimmering silver , and puftest
pink and rosy mauve melt Into opalescent
tints as the moire catches different glearoi
of light. There are also designs with
wreaths of flowers and colored medallions
in heliotrope and green and other fashion
able combinations.
IV III IIII lie > olen.
Lady Aberdeen Is taking a pleasure trip
through British Columbia , accompanied ly
Ler husband
It is said that Mrs. Hodpron Burnett Is
devoted to the weed , and after dinner en
joys her clparette from her dainty Jeweled
smokette case.
Miss Bromley of Utah hts Indented a
political cap. for which she has been
granted a patent. The crown is a cle\cr
'imitation of the IG-petal daisy , which Is
one of the emblems of tie silver party.
Queen Elizabeth of Roumanla. better
known as "Carmen Sylvia. " has received
from the emperor of Austria the decoration
of Arts and Sciences. This La the first time
this honor has been conferred upon a
woman.
The princess of Wales will soon receive
an Orkney straw-backed chair made from
oak couples used In the extension of St.
Magnus cath-dral. by Bishop Held , about
1510 , and removed when the roofs were re
paired In 1SW.
Progressive women cf Holland are sub
scribing .for a magnificent present for the
queen regent , which will be presented In
1S97 as a testimonial of thtlr appreciation
of the manner In which she has carried on
the affairs of mate during the minority of
the que n
Lady Elspeth Campbell , a granddaughter
of the duke of Argyle. Is an accomplished
performer on the bagpipes , and has a richly
toned and specially ornamented set for use
In the drawing room. It Is predicted that
bagpipes will become a fashionable fad.
The Princes * Loulte , marchioness of Lome ,
upon the occasion of the celebration of her
silver wedding a few days ago. received from
the First battalion of her regiment , the
Argyll and Southern Highlanders , a solid
silver model of an Argyll and Southern
Highlander.
Mme. Martha Besson of the Belle Vue
Champion Symphony contest , at Manchester ,
England , was presented with a testimonial
la acknowledgment of the services she haa
' j s al , r ' v Kr t jri'roua
i Miiim ajl 'ui. ' rjtc-ucnts In
I inamimcnbi
Miss Rllitbeth Rank < ) u jutt arrived tn
New York from lnlon She l < one of the
bet known women journalist * of Great
Britain. ? he mil aln do special work for
certain rerie a and maimtlnm before her
return In January.
Mrs. Matilda n. Carte of Chicago Is se
en rt me ubcrlptlon for freeing the
Woman's temple of Chicago from debt. She
has been very successful In RvaMton. the
h-ime of MlM France * Wlllard. who wrote
the first article supporting tbe temple.
Mr * C rt has just secured a pledge o {
125 000 for this purpose from Marshall Field.
Dr Alice Pennett Is one of the first
women to make a special study of Ineanlty.
and wa * the tery first to occupy a practical
cbalrman hlp of a great Institution Tor
sixteen jears she wa * superintendent of the
women's department of the Pennsyltanla
State Insane hospital , a jHMltion she has Just
resigned In order to devote herself to private
practice.
Miss Pauline Woodward lit one of the
few women who have made a great * uc-
of floriculture No : many > ears ago
she borrowed sufficient mtney to equip h r-
self for this purpose. She owns a p"t ! of
land near Pouphkevrnle. where she raises
violet * t"celrnlte > ly for a New York ftc-.sL '
Her Income from the tale of these tlowera
was $5000 last jear.
Mis. D. II Marsh of Oroton. N Y. has
been elected president of the First National
bank of that city She tias long been ono
of the stockholders and directors , and en-
th-J confidence and esteem of the busi
ness world of Oroton. She Is the fourth ,
woman who has been recorded as having
rvcelved the compliment of an election to
the presidency of a bank.
Queen Victoria. ba < offered the use of
St. James palace to the Ntedlework Guild
of Great Britain , for Ita annual exhibition
of work The duches * of Albany Is the
leading patronais. It t act generally
known th.it her majesty , the queen , has
o * n receiving ; treatment from l > rof. Pa-
Jeostecker of Wiesbaden , and she can now
do needlework and read and write with :
ease by the aid of some marvelously con
structed spectacles.
I'OVM'llllITIi:5. .
When A girl tells a jouuic wan that she
dreamed about him the night before. It Is
past time for him to begin to be very care
ful.
ful.A
A clergyman In a Connecticut church
publicly rebuked a number of women be-
they crowded about a newly married ,
? ouplc to hive a glance at the bride.
HJa reported from Paris that Jean Char-
cot , son of tbe famous physician. Is engaged
to be married to Jeanne Hugo , granddaugh
ter of Victor Hugo and divorced wife of
Leon DaudeL
The Roman press announces that the
dowry of Princess Helene of Montenegro
consists of ao annual Income of 10.000 lire
< 124. < X ) . which Is a present from her father ,
Prlnrn Nicholas.
It ts rumored that the Princess Inqeborg.
: he second daughter of the crown prince of
Denmark Is about to be fcct-othed to the
hereditary prince of Wled , a lieutenant In
the Third Uhlan Guards , at Potsdam , and
a nephew of the queen of Roumanla. The
3 was born on August 2. 1S7S. and the
prince on June 27. 1S72.
on and Mrs Isaac Selleck celebrated
their golden wedding on the ctenlnc of
October 11 at their home in Darlen. Conn.
The couple recelted the hearty congratula
tions of a large number of friends , mostly
Immediate relatives with nmny presents.
This Is the fifth golden wedding on Mrs.
"elleck's fide. Including that of her parents.
Both Mr. and Mrs. Selleck are grandchll Iren
of Deacon Joseph Mather , an active officer
In the war of the revolution
The duke of Orleans whose marriage to
Archduchess Marie Dorothea Amcllc tooic
place In Vienna on , Thursday , conceited an
oriclnal Idea in wedding souvenirs He or
dered 300 medals to be struck off som in
gold and pink enamel and others In silver ,
which were- presented to his friends at the
wedding The medals , besides containing
profl-'ts In bas-relief of the bride and bride
groom , were ornamented with the blazons
of France and of Hapsburg-Austrla-Lorralne.
The court of appeals for the northern de
partment of Kansas has decided that a.
divorce does not bccomo operative until six
months after it is granted. The object of
this rullLg is presumably to break up tbo
practice which has been frequent in that
state among divorced persons of stepping
out of the court granting tbe separation Into
th probate court and contracting new con
jugal bonds.
Mthough quite young , being little more
than 19. Miss Blanche Wilson , daughter of
Chaplain David Wilson. U. S. A . retired , has
every claim to her title , "an army belle. "
The announcement of her approaching mar
riage to Mr. Joseph J. Hampton of New-
York hsi caused tears to fall that have
tarnished many brass buttons , and Innumer
able disappointed hearts hive beaten hard
beneath the uniform of the service for hen
iwect sake.
Slair Medicine
When the hair begins to fall out and lose Its
lustre and beauty by turning gray or faded , what
more ciidenic it needed to prci < ; that Its hialtb
is affected' and that it needs raeditme' No
more. I assure jou , for there is a cause for every
syaptora tUat the hair gnes of turuiuc griy or
losing its beauty in auy form. For as tlic hiir is
a part of tlic human body , u is subject to ailment
us nc.ll as any other part , aud therefore should
be treated Intelligently. But contrary to this
ccrar.ioii-wnfe logic , no greater intuit or worse
nbuse ctuld be heaj > cd upon this defenceless
mrabcrofour person than the me of hair dye.
To color the jxsor sick hair with hair dye and
therebv drown its feeble cry for nourishment , Is.
In itrlf a sin and a crime ajalnut nature. Shame
oa i nrrant humaiity that will not yield to the
lar-s of nature and study the nce < l of their owa
body.
body.Mme. . M Yale's
Hair Ionic
Is a medicine for curing tick hair It Is the only
remedy on record Lnowu to restore tht natural
color to grty be r. It u urtslic * the root * and
give * circulation to the oil ducts , pcraicntiCK it
witli nature * own coloring matter thst Hews
through the channel * of the hair when itiiin an
healthful state us faithfully as the warm blood
doe * through our veins.
Mme. Yale's Hair Tonic is the result of a careful -
ful analysis of the human hair by Mme Vale ,
that wonderful trornan cheiniit and tcienliit ,
tkhoguarautceJ Vale's Hair Tonic to contain pre-
cmly the natural coiutitui-it of the hair t own
matu-r prepared in a chemical form. U Hops
Ihr hair faulng in from twenty-four hours to one
week. Cures Uar.ilrulJ" . toitent dry , harsh hair :
raalc the hair toll , glo y and fluflt , keep * it
in curl , and cures all manner of scalp durmc *
f.ud hair allmenlt. producing a Krou Hi ol luxurt *
tut hair of it * own rich , natural color , no matte *
what thtt may be dlack.bloudeor brown.
I'or children and adulu- males or females.
Ji jut j > er bottle ; six for Js-oo.
JtME. U. VAI.E. Dual7 tad CorapUiion BrwcUllfC
T ai io ol U. ut7 , lit aUU bit Ml , CiiUncu.