18 THE OMAHA DAILY REE : SUNDAY , OCTOBER 25 , 1800.
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II IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. I
in. , x jn . .HI
rim AMI
Sninc IcllKli fiill > - Novel mnl
liooklnir CrclitloiiM.
NEW YORK , Oct. 22 , A recent vl ! t to
inmo of tlio bent known dressmaking estab
lishments of tbo city unearthed n number
of charming ball gowns In various singes
of development. Mnny of the evening toilets
were for young girls from 15 to 20 yearn
of ago , the costumes having been designed
for the Informal Hallowe'en and Christmas
dances allowed young women not yet "out. "
Hut along with this more juvenile finery
( hero were some wonderful creations for the
older fry ; for debutantes who will make
their first bow this winter , for the poised
flower of society those fascinating young
married women the unsanctiricd read about
In , the newspapers and for the girl of BCV-
oral seasons , Everything was oxpennlvc ,
horribly no , and with the airy textiles ,
tulle , chiffon and gauze , there was n happy
DANCING FROCK FOR YOUNG GIRL.
commingling of brown fur and spangles In
the trimming Hint seemed delightfully
foreign.
Then It was really nstountllni : to hear
that nn nll-whito frock need net necessarily
bo worn now by a "coming-out" girl , as
formerly. Thrco debutantes' costumes
( ihown at a Fifth avenue house of very smart
reputation were In as many different colors ,
pink , blue and "green. Trimmings con-
trusted sharply , black velvet on the palo
' green , a deep rose with the pink , and th"
blue , which was ot silk muslin , hung
; curiously enough over a lining of cerise
' satin.
I Tho.-Hkirt this last was one of the
trlmmej effects so popular this season
foT'trlnnncd-Bklrts are the things you inuat
understand , u wns rrally three skirts , one
over the other , each llnoly kilted and deeply
PALE GREEN SILK.
pointed at the bottom all round , Tlien
under each of thc-jo oklrts ngdln. 111 o an-
other jupo , hung a deep llounce of . iffron
yellow laco. The bodice was a baby affair
with a round neck of the Is U ted muslli hung
with n hurthu of the lace. The bi It
Till * irv * t KU Wi. 141V I V.V * JIU UVI I , of
cerlso velvet laid In folds , was a wide corse
let flhapo ; the sleeves two mere narrow
bands of the same , hanging low on the
arm. below the shoulder , and finished at
the outsldo with .1 small square bow. The
result waa fetching and audacious beyond
words , and the old virgin white , once sup
posed alotiii vropsr for the estate of dc-
btitantchood , Deemed \vlsliy-waahy by com
parison.
Dressmakers declare that this chance of
FUJUIlEt ) SILK AND MULL.
tusto was nocpjsltntcd by the fact that
white Is moro generally trying than be-
i-omlnij. All whllo gown * , and especially
those of tulle with satin bodices , will still
bu worn by many debutantes ; but the style
of many a jjlrl needs a dash of color , and
the conventional whllo o\vn Is becoming
maids and those raio
ouly to plnK'Sud-whlto
palo brunettes that everything seems to
beautify.
FAIRY LI ICE FAHIUCS.
For ball materials nil sorts of neat tulles ,
plain nnd embroidered mulls nnd crepes
nro used. The evening tulles are In n va
riety of designs , those showing spangles ,
a tinsel thread or flguro , or a chenille
loop , being Used lu conjunction with the
plain sorts ; with the plain tulle ono full
colored nkfrt Is often mounted over sev
eral white ones , nnd caught down hero
and thcro with the sprays of flowers that
ornament the bodice. Chiffon and mousse-
line do note arc most frequently used ns
trimmings for silk and satin , and though
not so fashionable as the other materials ,
entire gowns are still sometimes made of
thorn.
Fomo of the fancy nets have very largo
holes through which ribbons of several
widths may bo run to form the decoration
on both bodlco and skirt. This simple
trimming , however. Is confined usually to
the dance frocks of misses and very young
clrls.
Handsome Is n mild word for the new
evening silks. They nro of superb texture ,
many of the richer onus made heavier still
with gold and silver thread and a number
of the brocades showing the dim soft colors
of antique stuffs. Several of the designs ,
Indeed , nro cxnct copies of the brocades
worn during the Louis Quinzo and Louis
Seize periods , ono n charming Mnrlo An
toinette pattern In dim pink and blue , with
prim baskets of flowers tied with knots of
ribbon.
A gown of this sort was made with a
short full skirt falling open In front over
a petticoat of yellow Ince. The low bodice ,
also of the brocade , has a V-shaped vest
of the lace and a tiny ruche of blue rib
bon heading simply the dccollctage. The
sleeves also closely followed the Louis
XVI. Idea In cut nnd trimming. They
wcro ft llttlo shorter than elbow length ,
fitting the nrm closely nnd finished at the
bottom with n shaped flounce of lace.
EFFECTIVE TRIMMINGS.
Ilrocndes of nil sorts nro much lined both
for trimming nnd entire ( gowns. Small
bits of genuine old weaves are In great de
mand , and whenever In sufficiently good
condition are used for hat crowns , belts ,
vests and ether dress trimmings.
Olaco silks , somewhat heavier than the
eld taffetas , nnd often figured , nre also
conspicuous gown trimmings , nnd moires
nro seen In profusion , though they nro not
In favor for very young women.
An evening gown of palo gray moire
trimmed with white tulle and pink mess
rosebuds was very charming. Again other
molro gowns were hung entirely with thin
stuffs , tulle and silk gauze , the glittering
wave of the foundation showing through ,
and n folded belt and perhaps tiny puff
sleeves matching.
Sleeves , by the way , however , are very
unimportant affairs In the new dance frocka.
For young girls thcro U still a pretense of
some arm protection , n three-quarter length
or short puff , but for the older fry
the sleeves of low bodices nro often a mere
ccntlnuancu of the lace or flower drapery
that decks the decollctagc. At the shoulder
these nro bunched to give n llttlo extra
width nnd fall gracefully a slight distance
over the nrm. Underneath again n narrow
velvet band finished with a bow may en
circle the arm llko a bracelet , but with
mnny of the Imported models a shoulder
strap of velvet on flowers Is the cole ex
cuse for nlecvcs In a lew evening bodice.
With the palcat and thinnest , and oven
white tulles , spangled headings will be
'Used with mink and sable fur for trlm-
'mlngs. At the shoulders ol the bodlco sev
eral tails will mingle with the light sleeve
drapery , wlillo a wide belt of fur may dis
tinguish some smart mode ! that bears the
name of a great maker.
EVENING WRAPS.
Fur , as both lining and trimming , also
appears on the nlrlest evening wraps. A
waist length capo , stamped by Paquln and
exhibited by a smart Fifth avenue shop , was
rcali/ed In pink silk muslin over a second
cape of llu&slan sable. Tills , however , ap
peared only In the lining , which was cov
ered closi-ly at the out ldlth pink satin ;
then over this hung loosely the muslin capo
Itself. Here a llttlo dwelling , for that bit
of muslin frivolity was oomething to make
the mouth water. U tfiTs made entirely of
muslin puffs , running round , and divided
between with narrow feilgcs of sable , headed
by rows of single spangles In scales. A
vast fur collar finished tire neck , and Insldo
this there were big quillings of the muslin
that nnilllcd tbo throat softly and ended at
the chin In a vast bow.with long ends
that came almost to the bottom of tbo
liklrt.
An evening capo somewhat longer and
fuller was made of grebo. which is a bird
skin of satin softness and delicacy now In
high feather with the furriers. Tills was
the usual gray , or rather black and white
of this skin , with a lining of old brocade
yellow.
DECOIIATED SKIRTS.
Hut to return to gowns nnd , above every
thing , skirts. Hero fashion has taken anew
now tack Indeed , quite turning up her
nose nt the plain skirts so lately adored.
Scarcely nn evening Jupo Is seen now that
is not trimmed In some way , a few of the
hip effects suggesting the funny old npron
ovcrsklrts worn twenty-five years ago.
Theao are made thiough rufllcs of lace ,
plain silk , mull or muslin sewed on the
Bklrt to give the look of an overjupe ;
sometimes , Indeed , the aprun will 'bo ' made
of another material , lace or muslin frilled
nt the bottom , with perhaps cash ends at
the Inck. These will tie ut the waist In a
big bow , with a pretty old-time look , very
becoming to slight tlgurcs. Many other
models suggest that It Is only n question
of tlmo when ovcrsklrts themselves will
bo with us. And If tight sleeves are to
come back , why not ?
Soma of the trimmed skirt designs are
caught up at ono side over n contrasting
petticoat effect. Again nn evening gown
will hnvo a Ince panel at ono side , tlio
brocade or satin top skirt swinging loose
and giving quite an upper skirt effect.
Many other signs Indicate the profitable
and near approach of the ovcrsklrt.
RIHDONS AND GIRDLES.
As to the bodlceu of the new evening
gowns , boleros and flgaro effects nro seen
on many of them , however low the cut.
The llttlo jackets will bo made of black or
colored vnlvot overlaid with lace , or perhaps
bo entirely of lace , or only simulated with
trimming. The high coreelct girdles are
also in n.i HI cat vogue as over , and for
alight figures nro made of folded velvet on the
bias. A cur.nlng swathing of the flguro with
ribbon , crossed nud rccrossed and the glrdlo
higher at tbo back than front , Is another
sort. This will appear on tulle bodices , the
ribbon used satin or moire , and the glrdlo
fastening at the left or back with a bow
and -sash ends.
TatfoU ribbons with a black velvet edge
may bo had very cheap , and make pretty
trimmings for children's and misses' frocks.
For the gowns themselves dotted and
flgured mulls are materials much In favor.
The llttlo sklrtfl are gored and hung loose
over tdlk linings ; the ribbon , if narrow ,
Is gathered through the middle and put
on In ruches. Then on the bodice , which Is
either high or only slightly cut out to glvo
the tiniest glimpse of young throat , there
are all the deep glrdlo effects that distin
guish * grown-up frocks. Narrow black vel
vet , or narrow ribbons crossed In lattice
work , nnd forming an entire blouse over
nnothor color. Is another pretty fancy for
children's party frocks.
NINA FITCH.
WKT WK.VriUMl TOKS.
I'asKliiU' of tint OltiiuuOM PiiNlilonrn
AYaU'rprnnfM ,
All clothed In mackintosh the maid or
matron no longer has anything to fear
from Jupllur Pluvlus or Dorcas combined.
When tbo Impossible winter day conic *
around , as Jt frequently docs , made up of
halt snow , halt rain , u llttlo sleet and a
great deal of wind , she , who must go out
on an Important errand , on a not to bo
shirked shopping expedition , to nee conic ono
who U 111 , or trudge .a uallo or two to liur
school or office , has now a comparatively
ngrecablo tlmo of it.
First of all she gets Into n pair ot woolen
knickerbockers , then drawn on her boots ,
these reach nlnioat to her knees. Their
vamps and soles arc ot rubber nnd the uppers
of black mackintosh cloth. They pull on
exactly llko men's boots , but have an at
tached tongue and two rows of eyelets up
the front , so that after being drawn on ont
laces them taut about the ankles and loga.
This enables the wearer to walk ns lightly
and comfortably In them as In her high
bicycle shoes nnd yet her extremities are
literally watertight.
Straight down to the ankles thcro falls
a black mackintosh cloth skirt , that opens
on the hips llko a bicycle petticoat , IboUs
really ns though It wcro n hindsomo storm
serge skirt nnd has a hem at the bottom.
With this Is usually worn a plain woolen
waist of black goods , or for walking a black
sweater , and then upon this , on the shoulders
fits a mackintosh cape , extending as far
down as the hips ,
It buttons closely up to the chin , has
flap covered silts In front , to let the hands
pass through , cross belts , both at back and
front , to prevent the wind lifting It , a
high collar and a number of big tnsldo
pockets.
If a cape seems Inconvenient , though , It
Is as easy , though more expensive , perhaps ,
to buy a black mackintosh box coit , with
big easy sleeves nnd loose In front ; nnd
behind. This will bo provided , too , with
Inside pockets and outsldo ones , which have
flaps buttoning over them. Finally , such
a costume Is completed by an Alpine hat
of waterproof cloth.
So equipped for the wettest nnd coldest
day a woman Is dressed to perfection. Not
a drop of water can reach anything but her
face , she has not on a superfluous Inch of
material , and she Is delightfully warm.
To all appearances her suit is entirely
conventional. There is not a 'thing hereto
to make any ono ntaro , should the skies
suddenly clear and a walk homo bo need
ful. An umbrella Is a superfluity , for to
take the rain and snow In her face is a
perfect tonic to the complexion , and a
silk handkerchief , folded and tied close
about her neck , will keep any drops from
trickling off her moist hair down her col
lar.
lar.At
At homo , when hung out to dry on the
outsldo , all these belongings fit Into the
small compass ot a little waterproof bng ,
and when traveling such an ouflt as this
Is a priceless treasure. Providing , how
ever , the day is only threatening , she need'
not get Into her complete wet weather
suit , but can carry along In a neat bit ot
a bag another skirt and cape , that has
come to take almost the place of the long
gossamers and hot ulsters.
These two pieces arc In any dark color
preferred made In the lightest weight of
waterproof cloth. The capo is almost ex
actly llko the ono described above , but the
skirt , on the left side , is slit clear up from
hem to belt. In fact , it looks just like a
very largo capo and Is meant to be folded
on , right over one's walking Bklrt , hooked
at the waist and buttoned at the side. The
Idea is to obviate the need of passing a
skirt over one's head.
Women have been carrying these skirts
and capos all the autumn , when off on llttlo
excursions , when yachting , golfing , fishing ,
etc. , and strapped the small bag on tholr
bicycle handle bars , greatly to their com
fort and dry keeping. Others who cannot
emancipate themselves from the ftassamcr
are using the now ones , which are as light
and prettily striped as taffeta silks and
made up In the form of skirt and short
reefer coat. Thcro Is no weight to these ,
they rustic llko silk gowns and are wonder
fully becoming.
Then tbero is new In the market of wet
weather goods pretty buttoned boots , with
mackintosh tops and cork soles , Ibcsldo
overshoes of the thinnest rubber , which lace
oa like Oxford tics. For these Inst there Is
now a varnish to bo applied that will Jtccp
them as bright as new patent leather. Again ;
In the way ot novelties is a handsome long
mackintosh coat , lined with satin , beautiful
enough to wear to the opera and with capes
and rovers like a highwayman's cloak.
1101.11 SAll.OK G1III.S TIIUV.
I'lvo YIUIIIK AVoiiifn VOJ-JIKP from
Nova Hfollu ( oIMV York.
Five romping , rosy-cheeked glrla stepped
ashore yesterday from the trim Nova Scotia
schooner Florence R. Howson , from Shulec ,
N. S. , relates the New York Journal. The
quintet are daughters of Nova Scotlan lum
ber merchants , and they made the voy
age on the Hcwson through gales , fogs and
rain nqualls , under the care of Captain Wil
liam Patterson , who has also promised the
girls' parents to take them safely back to
Shulec.
MUs Ella Seaman , who IB 30 years old ,
as she confessed nt the barge ofllco , acted
as chaperon for the party. Her companions
were MUacs 'Nellie Purdy. 19 ; Elizabeth Gil-
lesple , 17 ; Elizabeth Stanford , It ! , and Emily
Christie , It years old.
On the voyage they occupied staterooms
opening from the Howson's cozy aftur-cabln.
The llttlo schooner carried a heavy cargo ,
and her drckload was piled so high there
was barely room to swing the booms. 8)19 )
ran Into a couple of westerly gales before
Mie reached Nantucket , aud tbo waves at
times washed clear over her.
The plucky Nova Scotia girls proved good
sailors , however , and , far from bolng sea
sick , they developed appetites that kept
the ccok busy after the first day out
In the handling of the vessel they also
evinced the liveliest tort of Interest , and
tholr desire to Jim on deck even when the
tempest was Howling loudest wrung the
skipper's hcartj for , ho knew that U one
of his. falrLdjarges was swept overboard
the chanco'of fescue was slight Indeed.
Through sUvrrps and calms , however , the
Howson canfw unscathed , nnfl she sailed
down the / goSiml and through Hell
Gala wlthAtti the loss ot oven a
rope yarn. The Nova Section glrla declared
they had luafoodT' more about navigation
thnn they otpr&ncw before , 'and they have
kept a log book < that la the wonder of the
Howson'n o Ulcers.
Captain Patterson escorted the young
women to ttfX Utrgc office , whore their decla
rations concerning their baggage wcro token
In duo foraw jTheti they went up town to
visit friend ! ? '
When Immigrant .Commissioner Sonner
learned of the landing of the Nova Scot la
quintet ho expressed the opinion that they
should hnvo passed through Ellis Island , and
ho Intimated that the case would bo looked
Into nnd a search made for the girls.
John C. Moore , agent ot the schooner nt
71 Cortland street , was greatly annoyed
when he heard of thn commissioner's decis
ion. "Theso girls. " ho said , "aro the daugh-
tcrs of respectable people In Sbulee. Tholr
fathers are in the lumber business there ,
nnd nro frlet'ds of Captain Patterson. Three
of the girls are mere children , nnd they are
In charge of their two elder companions.
They took the trip for the experience and to
visit friends In this city , who are now enter
taining them , They will remain hero for ten
days or so , until' the Howson 'la ready to
start bock. "
CO.VttllKSS OK MOTIinit.S.
II Will II.11 i-M nt the \ntlonnl Cnnl-
tul Next I'Vlirtinrj- .
It Is proposed to hold In Washington , D.
C. , during February , 1897 , a "Notional Con
gress of Mothers , " which will Include dele
gates from every state , nnd , In fact , from
almoat every city In the union. This con
vention will nt least have the merit ot
originality , nothing of the kind having ever
before been held In Washington or else
where , says the New York Herald.
The originator of this congress , whose
name Is modestly withheld from the official
prospectus , Is Mn. Theodore W. Ulrncy , wife
ot the assistant district attorney of Wash-
DANCING FROCKS.
Ington , who. In her own words , "believing In
the necessity for organized and earnest ef
fort on the pa t of.-the mothers of our land
concerning questions most vital to the best
Interests of the homo nnd the welfare ot
their children1 ' presented the subject at sev
eral of the woman's meetings at Chautauqua
during tuc summer ot 1S95. So Immediate
and encouraging was the response from her
listeners that Mrs. Blrney was stimulated
to at once being devising plans for holding
a mother's congress.
Success has perched upon her banners , as
surance of co-operation having been received
by her from well known women throughout
the country , as well as from prominent
teachers , clergymen and phyelclans of the
other sex.
Ono of Mrs. Blrney's stanchest allies
throughout has been Mrs. Phebo Hearst ,
wife of the late Senator Hearst of Washing
ton , who has opened not only her heart but
her purse to the cause. Her own private
residence in Washington has been practi
cally donated as a temporary headquarters
for the reception 'and disbursement of com
munications relative to the congress , and the
expanses Incident to making the enterprise
known from , ' ho Atlantic to the Pacific
coast have been met by her.
Other well known residents of Washing
ton who are nCW prominently Identified with
the movement are Jlrs. Adlal Stevenson ,
Mrj. John G , .pacllsle , Miss Herbert , Mrs.
William L. Whsbn , Mrs. Judson Harmon ,
Mrs. II. W. Fuller , Mrs. Ella Herbert Mlcow ,
Mrs. A. A. Ulruay * Bishop John F. Hearst ,
Dr. William T. Harris , commissioner of the
United States Bureau of Education ; Prof.
Otis Mason of the Smithsonian Institution ;
Dr. and Mrs. Taber Johnson and Or , and
Mrs. W. W. KlnR" .
From reliable statistics It Is estimated
that In the IJnjtcd States there were about
12,000,000 women" who have borne children ;
hence , oven discounting the very largo pro
portion In whom It' would be Impossible to
arousq Interest In any organized effort of
this description-'tllcro yet remains a largo
army who will doubtless gladly seize the
oportunlty offered for exchange of views and
mutual encouragement.
It Is the purpose of the congress during
Its week's session to consider all subjects
which relate to the home' . Including "Tho
Moral , Physical and Mental Training of the
Young , " "KlmlerKarctn Work and nn Ex
tension of Its Principles to Moro Advanced
Studies , " "A Love of Humanity and ot
Country , " "Tho Physical and Mental Evils
Resulting from Some of tbs Present Meth
ods ot Our Schools , " "Tho Advantages to
Follow from a Closer Relationship Between
the Influence ot the Homo nnd that of In
stitutions ot Learning , " "The Best Means
of Developing In Children Traits Which
Will Elevate and Ennoble and Thus Assist
In Overcoming the Conditions which now
Prompt Crlmo nnd Mnko Necessary the
Maintenance of Jails , Workhouses nnd Re
formatories. "
These subjects will be presented by men
nnd women eminent In educational nnd
philanthropic circles and .on the lecture
platform. Opportunity will nlso bo given
to delegates for suggestion nnd debate. It
Is hoped that an outcome of the congress
will. bo the establishments ot "Mothers'
Clubs" everywhere throughout the coun
try.
try.Tho
The oxnct dates for the meetings and the
selection of n building wherein they shall
bo held are yet to bo decided.
IIOUSU IM/ANTS.
IIiMV to ICoop 'I'll cm Kri'nli nuil Fine
All Winter I.IIIIK.
Very few housekeepers , naturally ambi
tious to beautify their rooms In winter with
follago plants , recognize that llko cats , or
dogs , canaries , or children , palms and ferns
require a time for becoming naturalized nnd
happy In tholr now homes.
A fern or palm brought In the most
vigorous health from the florist's green
house will often enough droop and pine In
genuine homo sickness , and like young nnl-
mals or birds , plants thrive most happily
In each others' company. It Is , therefore
advisable to begin n bit of n window con
servatory , not with one , but let us say with
thrco plants. The best selection Is usually
a sturdy India rubber tree , Flscus clastlcus ,
Is what the florists call It ; a parlor plam ,
that Is an Aspidistra lurlda , and a big pot
of zebra plan Eulalla japonlca zcbrlna ,
which you can tell by Its long lovely
striped green nnd white lenvea thnt grow
lu nn elegant cascade.
All of these nre recommended 'because '
they nro hardy , easily kept clean and need
potting only once a year. They will live ,
too , In a room where gas Is burned , where
an occasional plpo or clgarotto Is smoked
and where thcro Is a fire. In turn for so
much sturdy good nature they must have
not only care , but that given regularly
every day. The woman who complains that
she can't raise houBc-planta Is simply negli
gent of them. She moves them about too
much , Is not always needful of their need of
water , permits the room they sit in to l c-
como very cold at night and then very hot
during the day. Probably , too , she docs
not cover them up at night , nor In any
way protect them fiom dust.
Happily where so many Bins ot omission
nnd commission are committed the poor
things die quickly nnd so cscnpo their
wretched existence. If you Intend to keep
plants put them in a window that has double
oa.shcs nnd where the greatest amount of
sunshine striken for tbo longest tlmo every *
day. Roll the shades high nnd drnpo tbo
cutalns back far and only for the liveliest
necessity move the pots. Every day , at as
nearly the same hour as you can manage ,
water these household pets. They will bo
grateful for the regularity nnd unfailingly
once a week glvo them n bath. That Is ,
with a sponge and clear , tepid water gently
pass over the leaves. Use many basins
of water for this and as far as you can
protect them ; don't let a cold draught strike
through their foliage.
A sudden chill often blasts on otherwise
hearty plant , and just as Important Is It
to protect them from superfluous dust.
When cleaning day comes around throw big
bags of old muslin or dimity over the green
things , nnd as plants arc usually kept In a
deep window , be sure nt night to draw
down the shades and over the portieres ,
when the gas Is lighted ,
The portieres should bo of some heavy ,
dark stuff to keep out the light , heat and
possibly tobacco smoke. Before leaving
the room for the night ono window , as dis
tant as possible from that In which the
plants sit , ought to bo pulled down at the
top , to let In fresh air , while the closed
curtains will still keep them warm enough.
Then , not until she has made her flro ,
cleaned the grate nnd done her dusting for
the day , should the maid push back the
portieres and pull up the window shades ,
Under such circumstances the following
plants will gaily flourish In n sitting or
dining room , or bed room , where every day
plenty of heat Is supplied during the winter :
There is the Fan palm and Its dwarf ihato ,
called C. Lumllls. The Seaforthla clcgans
with handsome fcrn-lllo leaves , Australian
cabbage palm and famllla Keutla Fostcrlana ,
silky Australian oak and Eucalyptus glob-
ulis | , all worthy of cultivation In one's con
servatory , all willing to flourish , If their
needs nro considered and wonderful bcau-
tlflers of one's home.
Another lovely hardy follago plant is the
Contcuroa ragtmVna , with silver frosted
leaves that serves on occasions to decorate
the center of the table , but the list really
Is nlmost endless , though those given nbovo
are enough to fill an embrasure and answer
for green and refreshing decoration the
year through. _
IIKI.KV KUI.I.KU'S SUCCHSS.
I'IIHNON tlio Ilnrvnril Kxiiiiilnutloti with
lllKli Croillt.
The pathetic story of Helen Keller , the
marvelous blind and deaf girl , of whom the
whole world has heard , has acquired now
Interest by news of her success In passing
with high credit the seven preliminary ex
aminations of Harvard university , which
entitle her to'entor Radcllffo college. Helen
Keller Is but 1C years old , yet her mental
development , In face of appalling physical
dcflclenetos , Is ono ot the marvels of the
ago. Because of her misfortunes and the
remarkable facility with which she has ac
quired knowledge by peculiar methods , her
name Is known throughout the world , and
everywhere there has been awakened the
liveliest Interest and sympathy. In London
en Institute for tlio education of blind mutes
has been named after her , and If her life Is
spared the future has great triumphs In
store for this marvelous Intellectual child of
misfortune.
Helen Keller has had a wonderful though
sad career. 8ho was born and spent her
early childhood at her father's homo , In
Tuscumbla , Ala. Sha was born blind , deaf
and , as her parents BOOH discovered , mute.
She had none of the senses , except that of
touch. She had not even the aonso of taste.
Up to her seventh year her mind was a
blank. Her family could only communicate
with her by means of the crudest signs.
Therefore all that she has accomplished Is
the work of a llttlo more than eight years.
To Miss Sullivan , her Intelligent and faith
ful teacher. Is duo much of the credit of
unlocking the mysteries of this child's won
derful mentality. With but ono sense to
aid her that of touch ono can form an
Idea of the tremendous obstacles the teacher
had to overcome. Miss Sullivan began
by a code of signs Impressed upon the
palm of tbo child's hands , and , after much
patience , succeeded In conveying the first
gleams f understanding to the virgin
brain , The next task was to teach her to
speak , and this , too , wan soon accomplished ,
thanks to the child's eagerness to learn.
Tliu method of teaching her to utter words
was to have her place the tips of tier flugers
upon her teacher'a lips , nnd thus by the
sense of touch convoy to her the Idea of
sound , nnd Inspire her with the Idea of
Imitating. She wns ( line taught the raised
alphabet , and thus In a short tlmo wns
able to read ,
Miss Keller can now converse with any
ono. Her utterance la n llttlo imperfect ,
ns is to bo expected of ono who knows not
tbo sound of her own voice , but she hn
no dltllculty In making herself understood.
The only wny. however , by which she can
receive oral communication Is by the sense
of touch. Let her place her finger tips
upon the thro.it or lips of any ono uprak-
Ing , nnd there Is Instantly conveyed to her
brain understanding of what Is Raid. Miss
Keller has been nn Inmate of the Wright-
HumnMou school for the oral Instruction
of the dent for more than n year , nnd It
Is hero that she has mndo her most rapid
progress. Slip has rnptdly neiiulred knowl
edge of French , German and history , nnd
already nho has written much In these two
languages , and her own as well. She has
n very strong pootlo temperament , nnd her
diary , which she has been keeping 'foro \
yean , abounds with beautiful thoughts ,
most beautifully expressed. What fnte may
have In store for this strangely gifted
child no ono can predict , but her future will
bo compassionately regarded with the keen
est Interest by all of civilized human kind.
1'nxlilon N tiN.
Drown or navy alpaca having silk dots la
useful for an early fall traveling costume.
White kid embroidered with colored silks
and Imitation jewels Is used for dress trim
mings.
Duckies of steel , gold and rhlnestono nro
used on elaborate and expensive costumes of
cloth.
Some of the rich ribbons show artistic ef
fects In the combination of navy blue nnd
deep cardinal.
For a simple afternoon costume often n
ribbon collar and cravat of Inco forms the
only trimming , using n figured or striped
silk.
lied Is to bo the dominating color In dress
this winter , and there Is red In our bain ,
red llnlngj In our drcsrcs and wraps , and
red gowns.
Few black , close-fitting cloth Jackets nre
seen. They arc generally light tan color ,
llox sacqucs will grow In favor as the
season advances.
Gowns of silken material arc trimmed
with black , white , or butter-colored lace ,
embroidery of beads , spangles , etc. , tulle
or chiffon , and- ribbon bows.
The season's new faced cloths are very
fine In texture , light In weight , and appear
In handsome shades In green , blue , dahlia ,
dark Durgundy red , opal gray , fawn , and
browns Innumerable.
Satin with spangled tulle , lace nnd velvet
trimmings will be a highly favored material
for ball toilets this winter , and golden yellow
and pink In exquisite tints will lead among
evening colors.
Five-Inch bind : or colored satin taffeta or
molro taffeta ribbon Is used for n belt that
commences at the back , where It Is pinned
securely. It Is then wrapped once and n
half around the wnlst , ending on the left
side with the end narrowed.
Broadcloth and ladles' cloth In beautiful
fruit , foliage and wine dyes , and also In
lovely neutral tones , come In for a largo
share of patronage this season and braiding
rages ns a garniture upon autumn and
winter costumes made of these materials.
The latest novelties In bonbonnlcrcs for
the dinner table at the country houses where
hunting parties are In order are Imitation
pheasants , rabbits and hares , dressed In
corduroy suits , with hat , game bag , gun
mil spectacles , to look llko the game
keepers , on bicycles.
The Duchess of Marlborough collar Is at
the momenta fashionable finish to the bodice
of elegant dinner and reception gowns. The
corsage has n trlnngular opening with a
point at the throat , and above this the wired
nrchl g collar meets , which Is made of silk
velvet.
Fur vesta made of seal , ermine , Persian
lamb and Imitation seal are ono .of the
economical features of fashion this season ,
and they help out the usefulness of a coat
and eldrlj gown , wonderfully. The back.la
mndo of.ellk , with a chamois plcln Inter
lining , and It Is well to havu close-fitting
sleeves.
The now weaves In blue and green English
serge ore especially attractive this Reason
and many of the costumes madeof thcao
materials have a natty jacket bodlco and a
Bovcn-gopcd skirt , trimmed with many rows
of Boutache braid , with a short , full capo
Tor the direct , trimmed with small buttons
and braid-edged straps.
Capes of cloth , velvet or fur are In two
styles , cut In points front and back , and on
the shoulders an English fashion or they
are shaped with stole-like ecnrf ends In
front. A , turban or toque and a largo hour
glass-shaped muff made of the material
composing the short full capo nro sold to
gether at tbo Importing houses.
The winter's woolens ore handsome and
varied. Iridescent effects , rich heather
mixtures , ' and boucle effects are numerous
having , for example , a medium or dark
woolen ground variegated by contrasting
threads of silk , or the foundation Is a blue
or deep red , for Instance , with a very shaggy
raised design of glossy black wool on the
surface.
Some of the latest tailor-made skirts are
platted nearly all the way round , beginning
with the wide box plait In front , and are of
short walking length , which Is the perfection
of comfort. Gored cloth skirts are trimmed
on each seam with braid put on la n scroll
pattern , around the bottom with festoons
and military knots of braid , and silk braid
stripes the seams of velvet gowns.
Among the black materials which fashion
so favors this season arc wool armurcs with
bourctto knots. French mohairs with boucle
figures , camels' hair Bcrges with stripes in
glossy silk and wool weaves , plain and fancy
woven mohairs and brllllantines , faycttts ,
wool ctamlnes , Henrietta cloths In silk warp
or all-wool weaves , and rcpped wools In
fine ! and heavy cords.
Heal Jewelled pins will bo worn this Bea ?
son and during the winter , not only In the
hair arranged a la Joponalgc , but they will
appear upon dress hats and elegant evening
bonnets. Jewel cases and caskets are being
searched for odd pins , elides , brooches , and
other ornaments which have been put away
as obsolete , to now furnish decoration for
various portions of the toilet.
Mink , otter , sable and chinchilla bands
are used to enrich the very expensive cos
tumes for next season , and short fur capes to
match the bands come with many of the Im
ported models. The muffs cnsulto are very
largo and really clumsy-looking after the
trim , taut shapes of BO many seasons past.
Other trimmings for cloth gowns are bias
bands of the dress geode , also rich braiding
In colors and gold , and other metul trim
mings in which tallora excel.
Besides the bolero effects and the stylish
coats and jacket bodice * In nlnglo or double-
breasted styles are attractive gowns made
with lapped bodices a 1'Eraplre. These folds
are fastened In with the under-arm seams
and are drawn closely and snugly as they
lap. There la a deep velvet colnturo at the
waist and a heart-shaped plecn which covora
the space on the chest between the Hat
Tolds. A collar of the velvet turns down
broadly over a still broader rcvcr collar of
the cloth.
Empire bolts and belts of all sorts are the
most conspicuous detail of dress this scauon ,
barring of course the little bolero , and they
are made of satin and vchct and ombroldcred
with beads , covered with an applique of a
contrasting color or draped plain , as you
wish. Some havu a narrow double box
plaited frill In the upper edges , and others
have a deep fringe at the bottom , but the
moat becoming belt Is shaped wide under
the arms nnd tapers .down at the back and
front. Leather bells .iro all very narrow
and the very latest novelty la bright scarlet.
I'Viuliiliic Noluw.
Lady Henry Somerset mid Mos ! Frances
Wlllnrd are enthusiastic devotees of the
wheel , and are making a cycling tour of
Franco.
Miss Alma Tadcrua has been prevented
with a gold medal from the German em
peror as one of the award * from this year's
academy.
Queen Maria Fla , the prosrcsalvn rjucon
of Portugal , has been doing some beautiful
modeling In clay , nnd nho ban recently
Inlsbed an elaborate'piece of mural decora-
Hon.
Hon.Mrs , 13 , Dumbloton h the prcRldcnt of the
[ Brighton ( England ) Ladles' Cycling club ,
Thcro nro women's clubs In London , Liver
pool , Manchester , Li-ads , Coventry nnd mar.y
other cities.
Mrs. Frances Naaicn florcho b a profes
sional deep sea diver , the only ono In til ?
world. She la accu.itoineJ to bringing up
ill-Ad bo.l lea from wreck * , ami any other
Rrewsomo work in that calling.
MUs .Florence Stactool Is going to Holland
ml ? monl1' lt > ' 'Oliver ' three lectures on
Woman's Suffrago" nt Amsterdam , Hot-
tcr.lam nnd The Hague. Tbo lectures will
be jlvcn In English to the Dutch women.
Mrs. Mary Marshall-Allen , who assisted
the sufferers during the r-nrthquako In Japan ,
has been presented with ft Japanese
memorial , sinned by the prominent people
of Aomorl , In recognition of her services.
Princess Henry of Prussia has entered
fifteen photographs , taken nnd developed by
heraelf. tor the International exhibition of
amateur photographers now open In Ilorlln
under the patronage of Empress Frederick ,
Mrs. Jane Severance , known as the Mon
tana nheep queen , died nt Chicago. She
went to that city last month to undergo
n surgical operation for the removal of a
tumor. The tumor had encroached lee near
the heart.
Lady Currle , the wife of the British am
bassador nt Constantinople , has contributed
n poem to the first number of Indies' Realm
under the nomv do plume of Violet Fame.
The poem Is called "On the Marmora In the
Time of Disturbance. "
Mrs. Frederick W. Vnndorbllt has comp -
p olcd arrangements for giving n Thanks
giving dinner to 300 newsboys nt Newport.
She has Just arrived at her villa on the
Hudson , upon which she has expended many
thousand dollaiM In the last few weeks.
Countess Danneskjold , who recently mar
ried Comto Aago Moltke , In Jutland , had a
novel wedding , nnd among other original
features was n bridal procession headed by
ton bridesmaids , dressed In bright scarlet ,
who drew the carriage carrying the bride
and groom.
Mrs. Ilclva Lookv.ood. who Iras Just re
turned from attending the International con
vention of charities In Geneva , Switzerland ,
reports that much good was accomplished.
At a concert on shipboard , ns she was re
turning to this country , she- read a paper on
"International Peace. "
The Bond street shop that bears over Its
door In largo letters of gold "Countess of
Warwick , " Is not conducted by the orstwhllo
Lady Ilrooko as a money-making enterprise.
She has started on her estates n dressmak
ing and millinery establishment wbero the
young girls are taught by thoroughly ex
perienced French modistes and milliners
to become competent workwomen.
Lady Spencer has collected $2,500 toward
the $30,000 required for the memorial to
Nelson , which will soon bo erected at Burn-
Imm-Thorpo , near Norfolk , England.
Through tlu > efforts of Lady Spencer and
her corps of lady assistants J20.000 has
been subscribed. Miss Heath Wilson , whoso
Anglo-American library In the Spanish pi
azza In Homo has proved such a success ,
has Just added several hundred volumes
In again opening It for the winter season.
Miss Fannlo Elklns of Brooklyn is an
artist of anatomy. She draws , paints and
models In clay for medical books , surgeons ,
doctors , hospitals and colleger the human
body In nil Us parts , In their healthy state
or diseased , nnd her work Is taken ns n
standard by the greatest doctor ? ) of Now
York. And even more than this , she ban a
foreign reputation. Throughout Europe she
Is regarded ns an authority , nnd efforts
have been made from tlmo to time by the
English Rtirgeons to get her to draw nnd
paint for them. But all foreign offers she
absolutely refuses. The Now York doctors ,
hospitals and medical schools keep her
huxy , and she will riot venture beyond
them.
MUs Amalla Kussner , who has painted
so many miniatures of beautiful American
women , Is enjoying as great a vogue In
London as In this country. She went
abroad last spring , and she carried with her
a letter of Introduction to Mrs. Arthur
Pagot , formerly Miss Mary Stevens , and
the latter nt once used her powerful In
fluence to advance Miss Kusancr's Interests
In the fashionable world. Some of thp
artist's miniatures were shown to Sir John
Mlllais , and found a place in the Hoyal
Academy , where they wore greatly ad
mired. She at once received many orders ,
and when nine miniatures of English beau
ties had been completed , Mrs. Pagct gavp
n "tea" to exhibit them , and this resulted
In 'more orders. ,
HIS .JOUHMV.
Written for Tlio life.
nnd prattling nt eventide ,
\Vltli lilH head on his mother's Icnre ,
Oft loved ho to weave such n fnnclful tftlo
With childish solemnity !
Always a tiilo of 11 Journey he'd tnko
Some day In hla mimhood'8 strength ,
A Journey , intended , until It hml spanned
All of earth's grand breadth and length.
Mourning nnd grieving nt eventide ,
With n hcnrt-pnln that will not 1 > sllllcd ,
She peora through the measureless ppaco
beyond ,
With eyes that nro nlwnyn filled.
Seokltig for Romothlng' she never will flnfi ,
Wbllo the Inllnltc cloud mints hide ,
Fur the Journey's IOIIR her llttlo one's gene
With nn Angel-song for his guide.
Alice 1'hclps.
Council muffs , In.
The Stundlst movement Is snhl to bo ad
vancing rapidly In southern Kustila.
When the hair begins to fall out nnd lose Its
lustre nnd beauty by turning gray or faded , u lint
more evidence U needed to prove Hint it * health
U nlfL-ctcd ? and that it nccili medicine ? No
more , I assure you , lor there Inn cause for every
nymptom that tlic lialr gives of tunilne Kmy or
loihiK lt beauty In any form. I'or as Hie hair U
n part of the human body , U Is iiibjcct to ailment
in well ns nuy other part , mid therefore should
be treated Intelligently , Hut contrary to thin
common-sense logic , no greater insult or worse
abuse coulil be heaped upon this defenseless
member of our person thnn the use of lialr dye.
To color the poor Rick lialr with hair dye , and
thereby drown its feeble cry for nourishment , Is
lu Itself a sin and a crime ngalnit nature. Hlmmo
on ignorant humaiity | that will not yield to the
lawn of nature uud study the needs of their own ;
body ,
Mme. M. Yale's !
Hair Tonic
Is n medicine for curing Rick lialr , It Is the only
remedy oil record known torctlorc the natural
color to nrcy lialr. It nourishes tile roots and
gives circulation to the oil ducts , pcnncntlm ; it
with nature's own coloring mutter Hint down
through the channels uf the nalr when U It In nn
healthful Mate as faithfully as tbo warm blood
docs through our veins.
Mine. Yale's Hair Tonic Is the result of a care
ful analysis of the human hnlr by Mine , Ynlr ,
th.it wonderful woman chemist and scientist ,
whoguarautccs Yale's IlalrTonic tocoiitaln prc-
clicly the natural constituents of the hair's own
matter prcpired In n chemical form. H stops
the liair falling In from twenty-four hours to one
Vrccl.Cures Dandrnir ; pollens dry , liarsb linlrj
makes the hnlr toll , glossy nnd Huffy ; keeps It
In curl , nnd cures nil manner ol scalp dUcusea
ai.d hnlr ailment" , producing n urowth of lnxur <
ant hair of Its own ilcb. natural color , no maltcS
what that may bo black , blonde or brown.
I'or children nnd nilnltn-inalcu or females.
$1.00 per bottle ; elx foi Jj.oo , ' '
HMK. M. YAI.K. IlDntitranJ Ootnil | ilo '
ct lliuntr , 11) oUl mutt , CMc
