1
TTTE OMAHA DATTAr BEE : RirNDAY , OCTOBETl 18 , 1800. It
rfiU
3S.sSX2) | ) > \ ? < § r\ff 2rsv 1 ( § X ( § r % ® \
[ ft THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
ll ll & M.llll . , M
yiv vi
Lnxnrlonn MiimliiBx for < > >
.Slinri * WcntliLT.
NEW YORK , Oct. 15. The time for wear-
tag furs Is rapidly approachlns aSd at all of
the largo shops these luxurious muffling *
may bo seen In an enormous variety of
design and at prices that teem astonishingly
low.
low.Tho
The reason for this amazing cheapness
was explained by A Fifth avenue furrier of
reputation is owing to the hard times.
Trices need to be low to make sales at all ,
ind with the election coming on and free
lllvcr as a pocslhlllty ( when It Is declared
the whole world will come to an end ) ratr-
i
6CALSKIN AND EMBOSSED LEATHER.
chants are who enough not to tempt Provl
dcncc by holding back their stock for big
profits.
Furs will be more worn this winter than
ever. The coronation of the czar has re
newed Interest in them , whether or not
American politics have anything to do with
their prices.
They are seen In entire garments , long
capca , short capes , Jackets and long , smoth
ering cloaks , meant to muffle beauty In her
ball and opera finery. Short fitted Jackets
with basques and short capes oddly slashed
t the bottom are the most popular models ,
nd among the Imported designs there are
BROADTAIL AND ERMINE.
come little adjusted bodices with Eton am
bolero effects that are very fetching.
These arc realized In the fashionable skin ?
of tbo seaion , sable , chinchilla , Persian
lamb , broadtail and sealskin. Trimmings
sro contrasting furs , as ermine with lamb
leather , which Is embossed , beaded or cm
broldcred.
The color of this leather Is a rich snuffy
brown , which Is an effective background for
the bronze and jet beads that often 'cover ' It
A COSV NOVELTY.
"Basque pelerine" Is the name of these
MARINE DLUE VELVET AND RUSSIAN
SABLE.
( etching little garment * , which seem In
tended more ( or beautifying than warming
purposes.
One seen at the aforementioned furriers
U worthy ot description. This was con-
I i * III / - J Ml * * -Mv vi * *
cclvcd of jcahkln In an Eton model , with a <
close vest and a broad belt of the brown
and sable with sealskin , or die arc In the
shape of vesta and bands of undressed
leather embossed -with drcwcd kid In n
lighter shade. The neck was finished with
ono of the high full collnrn that are a fea
ture of all the wraps this season , ruftled
higher again with black chiffon and decked
at the back with a. stock bow ot black satin
ribbon. Thtj sleeves were loose cape affairs
of the seal , hanging rather short to show
madJinlng undcrslccves of the leather , tilted
with a band at the wrist. Finally at each
sldo of the vict there was a blouse effect of
kilted black chltton , and hanging over the
whole were thrco heavy Jet chains fastened
at each side of the Eton fronts with band-
some round ornaments. The tesult was en
chanting and suited to only the slimmest
woman In the world.
I'laln , full capes , short and waist length ,
are much ecen In Persian lamb , and arc
useful purchases where only one fur gar
ment can bo afforded.
All have Invariably the high Medici collar
that turns up about the cars In coldest
weather , and the majority ot the linlngi
with these are In black or sensible wearing
colors.
FASHIONABLE CAPES. .
The fancy capes are extremely magnificent
where their linings are concerned , these
running to pale brocades In superb weights ,
and often finished at the bottom with a
narrow quilling of Ihc same or else one of
rich law. Where the tall of the garment
Is 6la hcd. In gothlc points or squares , as
s frequently the case , a fringe of soft odd-
ooklng lace underneath , or chiffon kilted
and doubled , will often peep out through the
openings. At the neck the high collar
of the fur will be ruffled again with chiffon ,
and the front will show ttlu of rich lace
ind knots of Russian violets. One dashing
Ittie cape so designed was of broadtail , the
delicate baby lamb , with a tiny quilling
ot black tulle edging the bottom ot the
white brocade lining.
Another of the curled lamb Itself had a
gored yoke of white kid , each gore- pointed
at thn bottom and outlined narrowly with
the lamb.
A few of the short capes are adjusted
gracefully back and front to the figure , a
wide belt of beaded galoon or white em
broidered kid being used for this purpose.
And no matter hotr" heavy the fur of these
elegant shoulder wrappings , for they ar
scarcely more , tulle , chiffon and lace will
appear on them somewhr-rc. the combination
giving a look ot coquettish softness Invalu
able to tbo ECX , and Impossible to fur
alone.
SMART JACKETS.
When In the shape of Jackets the new furs
are mainly without trimming , though some
will be ornamented with a contrasting skin
and a few will show vests of white kid on
the embroidered leather mentioned. An Im
ported model In sealskin , which by the way
Is again In fashionable favor , has wide
rovers , collar and pointed cuffs of the brown
kid beautifully perforated and embroidered.
Two or three big Jeweled buttons , fastening
a loose double-breasted sacquc , or holding n
close one at the waist over a vest , will ap
pear on other Imported models. Then If
there Is a brown or white kid vest there
may be a little Jabot of lace at the throat ,
though for the most part the fur jackets are
designed toward an eye for real usefulness
more than foldcrol effect.
Sealskin Is most frequently used alone
but many of the jackets In Persian lamb
and broadtail will have handsome vcstc
and perhaps others trimmings of ermine.
A coat with an ermine vest , Illustrated. Is
of silken Persian , which Is that beautiful
waved skin of the very young animal. Moire
antique , or watered silk. Is said to have
been copied from this rare and expensive
skin , and which Is one of the most effective
ot the Persian lamb family. Broadtail Is
taken from the still younger animal , and
though delightful to wear and look at , Is as
expensive as perishable.
In design the newest of the fur jackets
are fitted at the back and halt loose at the
front , with a vest. The sleeves are small
glgots , and Instead ot the old rippled effect
of the tall , the fullness at the back Is
generally distributed In two In-turning plaits.
Ono handsome Persian jacket seen at a
smart place had scarcely any fullness In
the basque , a slight flare at the hips and
back giving the required ease at these
points. At the furriers' It wts learned
that this method of cutting was approved
by the swell set. In other words , to have
much fullness at the back of your fur coal
was to tell the. world that you bad bought
It at a cheap place and were not up to snuff
and fur etiquette. So subtle and damning
are the wavs of fashion.
TRIMMED WITH FUR.
Many of the cloth Jackets are fur
trimmed , and among the imported novelties
thcro are some ravishing combinations In
fur and velvet.
A splendid model In chinchilla had a loose
short sacquo of the fur and draocd sleeves ,
fitting closely at the forearm , of black vel
vet. A vlslte of extreme elegance was in
a brilliant shade of marine blue velvet with
bands of Imperial Russian sable , that noble
and priceless skin once reserved for royal
women alone. This ( s also here pictured.
Loose capo sleevs distinguish many 01
the coats , and hero and thcro tome iTal.it }
odd model In seal or broadtail will have
a vest or velvet or Kid la a gay color
swathed at the waist with a broad belt ol
black molrc. But these are only novelties
ornaments for showcases , and conspicuous
things to keep away from If one is llailtec
In wardrobe and funds.
In other materials jackets will be the
wraps more worn than capes , but beuuito
of the clumsiness of au all-fur coat , as wcl
as Its expense , more ( ur capes are being
shown than jackets.
Collars abound In a multitude of shapes
and "tails" are more In evidence than ever.
The short cravattcs , worn so much las
season , are seen again , but instead ot being
a elnglo skin with a head , tall and feet as
foi mcrly , they are now finished with a
number ot tails , from three to seven , at
each side. At the back of the neck the
broad band Is curved and made to turn
up In coldest weather : the fronts fasten
without Harping and hang down straight
stole fashion. Some vast "cols , " meant to
bo worn with plain tailor gowns , are cut
with a point at the back reaching almost
to the waist ; an Inch covers tbo shoulders ,
or else they are qulto short there and at
the front there are narrow stole ends that
reach almost to the bottom ot the skirt.
Collars of these are also high and rolling ,
but Instead of the round edges of last season
the fronts now turn back in sharp points.
The long stole ends of other ( ur collets will
be covered with Innumerable tails , too
many to bo counted , and scarcely a dainty
lace neck fixing la to bo seen without its
complement or sable or mink tails , mingled
rougtshly In the Jabot front as outlining
the edges of gay ribbons.
FOR THE HANDS.
Muffs have developed to astonishing pro
portions and arc seen In round and fancy
flat shapes. The newest muff of the season
Is a vast round affair , designed for carriage
use , and made In all the cables , Russian ,
Hudson Bay and Alaska. A round one for
street use In popular favor Is medium sized
between the great big ones and those ol
last winter and Is plainly lined with black
satin. Together with a cravatte to match ,
fur sets with a muff ol this sort may be bad
A-ora J1S up.
The fancy muffs are made of chinchilla ,
the several grades of lamb , the breast ol
the grebe duck , or of "moufflon , " a new
woony lur made of dyed sheepskin. Many
have falls of rich lace at the openings , era
a jabot at outside with knots of violets.
No one particular ( ur is especially the
( ashlon. All that have been worn ( or the
past two winters are again seen , though
thcro has been a revived interest in seal
skin , and moufflon and ( ox bluto are two
novelties that are appearing ( or the first
time.
Moufflon has a loose downy surface , like
a fuzzy flannel , and is cheap , vulgar and
unlovely to behold. Fox bluto is also a made
skin , as It Is called , but It Is shown In. a
rare bluish gray that is extremely beautiful
and Its long silky straight hairs give It a
look of simple elegance. Tbo moufflon Is
dyed many Impossible shades ot brown and
gray. Both skins appear in muffs , collet *
* l\ * . * IV ViWIN * W1\J VftU
and capes , which In trimmed Instances arc
decorated In. the way already described.
NINA FITCH.
SUIITIM : IMUIH.MIS.
FiiKliloii II nun n Frown A pral tint llrnvy
Scent * .
It requires Infinite Rood taste and tome
outlay to wear perfumes this winter , ( oren
on Rood authority only the. hopelessly In
artistic woman puts any scented waters on
licr handkerchief. All her clothing must
jo Impregnated with fragrance by means of
sachets , or perfume dried on.
Her sachets continue to be chiefly of orris
powder , or that novel and Interesting pot
pourrt of heliotrope , lavender and orange
blossoms , dried and ground up together.
With thcso Is mixed the sawdust of sandal
wood and the result Is a strong , sweet and
lasting powder. A few spoonsful of this
ought to be sewed Info a litllo flannel bag.
then Into a china silk cover , and disposed
about one's bureau drawers and closet
shelves , to diffuse delicious odors.
Extravagant women buy their sachets In
the form of huge flowers. Big roses , long
throated lilies , dahlias and great satin
marigolds , which have odorous powder
BtorlcJ down In their largo green muslin ,
calyx , beneath the exquisitely tinted petals.
Spread among lace trimmed lingerie the
effect Is very luxurious and beautiful , and
those who do not do this have every piece
of linen , separately perfumed before It Is
put on. The maid , with an exceedingly
small atomizer , lightly sprays over the linen
a little violet or diluted oil of rose water ,
and then puts the garments for a moment
Into the oven. Just for a moment and the
oven must be barely warm , or If the oven
Is not convenient she hold * the moistened
clothes to the steam radiator or register.
In an Instant they are warm and dry and
retain Just enough perfume to vaguely de
light one's senses. Slnco the new open
aluminum boot trees have come Into com
mon use every woman Insists that her shoes
are put away , and her slippers , too
with long , narrow muslin sachet bags In
their toes. Her stockings go Into a long
reticule of wadded satin and her handker
chiefs Into the prettiest little Japanese cabi
net , that , with Its many drawers , sits on her
dressing table. White moucholrs go In one
drawer , pink edged ones In another , blue
black , scarlet and lace trimmed ones Into
a third , fourth and fifth. Once a wc k. when
clean handkerchiefs come from the- laundry ,
all the drawers are taken out , the sachet
powder tossed In the fire- and fresh spoons
ful sprinkled like sand among the contents.
Perhaps the last among the whims of
fastidious women Is the small sachet blan
ket that lies all day between the sheets and
Is taken out at night. It Is heavily Impreg
nated , In Its quilted wool center with laven
der or violet powder and can bo bought all
prepared at the shops like the new per
fumed veils and fans , and gloves. Careful
straining Is the means whereby these last
three articles are given their delicious
odor , that does not last , however , but a few
days.
The same code of fashion that still frownr
on the use of perfume on one's stationery
discourages the mixing of odors. If yoi
elect to use heliotrope use that only and
with everything , or confine yourself strictly
to violet or the exquisite French Mlel du
Copudne In English called nasturtium honey
In thf bath pour cologne or perfumed am
monia , and on your dressing table to rub
Into the palms of your bands , dab lightly
about the back of your neck and anoint
your cars ; keep a tiny square Jug of "A
la Heine des Abellls" or "Vlolctto du Czar. "
The first Is supposed to be an extract from
the bread bees make to feed their queen on
the richest pollen In the flowers. The other
is a new distillation from Russian violets
and though exceedingly costly , this Is ap
pure a bouquet of the violet as ottar of
rose Is of therosea. All of these new honeyi
and waters are applied by very exquisite
persons with the finest camel's hair brush
and then. If friction Is administered to the
perfumed flesh the pores will accept and
bold the odor an unusually long time.
.Avriiitoi'OMirritic CHARTS.
The Modern Woman Tnklnur HIT Own
.Mfnxiirc- .
AH" the girls now are going In for an-
thropometrlc charts. In other words , they
are taking their measures , the breadth ,
depth , height and elrth of their bodices.
The first place Is to buy callipers , a
breadth stick , a height stick and a steel tape
measure. Then go to some one who knows
how the physical director of some nearby
gymnasium , and ask her If she will kindly
( for a consideration ) show you how to take
your own measures. Having meanwhile
purchased ono of these charts with a long
name the measurements are therein set
down. Of course , they are far from satis
factory , unices one has had a course of phys
ical culture and Is In prime condition. The
girth of the chest , for Instance , Is 29.2 , when
It should bo 30.G say. Other measurements
likewise are found to be on the wrong side
of the account.
If the treasurer Is a damsel of spirit and
energy , she will commence at once a course
of gymnastics , In her own room , perhaps ,
that In duo time other and more satisfactory
measurements may bo recorded In her an-
thropometrlc chart. The shoulders , per
haps , measure less than the hips , an order
which roust be reversed , for there should
bo a gradual slope from tto shoulders
down , with no bulging out of the hips to
destroy tbo symmetry.
In the New York " "
"gyms" there Is a
young girl , 18 years of age , whose form
Is considered by her teachers , a doctor and
his wife , as near perfection as possible.
When she commenced work In the gymna
sium there was a lack of some tenths of
Inches in the girth of her forearm and the
depth of her chest. Other measurements
were not quite up to tbo standard , but by
Intelligent and systematic exercise she baa
brought them to the desired form and her
chart bears the following figures , which
may bo helpful to the girl who Is going to
do likewise to add tenths , Jt not Incoca ,
to parts of her anatomy. H
Aef. J > * an-
Pouniln.
Weight . u . ' . . S.
' Inchf .
Itcldit . J..V , . (1.5
Girth Clifst ordinarily . l"vr . "
Ch t . . w
empty , t < > t <
Chtft Mil . . . . , . 3 .
Ninth rib dnllniully..i.ttit . Sf.
Ninth rib empty . o. > . 77.
Ninth rib full . . . . 31.
Want . , . , \ * . ? 5
.
Jllpi . JVWUN . 34.5
tpp ! r nrm . } . . . . . . 1 .
r < ir rm . 'ft . > J'75
che t . ; . / . . . 2-
Abdomen . /.9 . <
Itreailth-Shouldcrs . . . . .Xj..ti . Ji.i
nip . i-fi . Jr. .
WfllSt . M ( , . * * *
Hds Interesting to compare the forearm
extract from Miss - * s anthropomctrlc
chart with n table compiled by the director
of a physical culture establishment where
the measurement of about 2W New "Vork
girls , averaging 19.4 years , has been taken
and recorded.
Just here a hint to the novice. Measure
ments must always be taken In the same
position of thd body and must be taken In
the same way. They are of value for the
reason that they hold out an Incentive to
work : they show the gain am } loss In cer
tain directions , and are a guide as to ti
kind of exercise needed.
_
'
< ltinu ; FADS'IX STATIOMJUY.
Rrtl , ! " " ninl Yellow I'mior KIII-
I'orlrnltt.
Scarlet stationery Is to be thrust upon us.
It Is so brilliant that a box of note paper In
the newest shade may be seen nearly a block
away from the shop window In which It Is
exposed ; It Is so vivid that It suggests
horrible thoughts of flre , gore , murder and
similar horrors to the Imaginative person.
True. It has Its virtues. The girl who
affects scarlet letter paper may bo sure that
It will be read. Such a color could not by
any pcsslble comblnat4on of circumstances
escape the eye. And It will prove a boon to
anxious and eager lovers. One look at the
postman as he romcs slowly up the street
and all doubts as to whether "she" wrote
last night or not will be over. The scarlet
letter will stand out from the pale-colored
ones of the multitude like n poppy or a drop
of blood. The slighter question of what she
raid will remain unsolved until the letter
Is opened , to be sure.
On the other hand the brilliantly colored
paper will endanger one of the sweetest joys
of lovcmaklng. Who would care to read and
TIPPETS WITH CHIFFON AND VELVET FLOUNCES.
reread a scarlet letter In public. The man
or woman whose lover affects the red paper
will henceforth be restricted to merely feel
ing and rustling the paper while In com
pany.
Nevertheless scarlet letter paper Is the
latest ( ad In stationery and It Is being
bought and sold In Immense quantities.
Sometimes It Is rendered still more gaudy
by the addition of a silver or gold mono
gram , and sometimes the address of the
owner Is engraved In glaring white. White
or gold colored Ink is Intended to be used ,
but the black monogram , black seals and
black Ink are really not QO bad. It Is at beet
better than the lavender paper and violet
ink ot no very distant date.
But scarlet paper has a rival. This rival
Is of a dingy , dull-looking blue , artistic tea
a high degree , but most melancholy In ap
pearance , and forming but a poor back
ground for most kinds of Ink. The dark
blue ink which Is occasionally sold with it
Is not so bad , but when black or purple Ink
on a dull blue ground is used headache will
surely follow close upon the track of the
luckless wight who trlrs to conduct a lengthy
correspondence. The color Itself Is restful
to the eyesight , but the dark tracery upon It
has decidedly the opposite effect. Yet blue
paper follows close upon the flaming track
of the scarlet In popularity.
Yellow paper is also becoming a fad , but It
is not popular , and It can hardly bo consid
ered attractive even by those pretty bru
nettes whose color It Is , and It is reminiscent
of the yellow paper on which business let
ters were formerly Indited In so far as color
is concerned , and that settles the matter for
them.
Monograms upon stationery have always
been popular , but this year every fashionable
woman and many fashionable men have
their monograms engraved or illuminated
upon every sheet of paper they use.
SnCHUT WORTH KNOWING.
Tlmt of Cttrrylnsr Filly Venrn or aiorc
Without WrlnUlcn.
There are many women over 50 years ol
age whose skins look soft and smooth in
the strongest sunlight. When they arc tired
and see lines about tbo mouth end eyes
Instead of massaging or steaming the ( ace
they darken their rooms and go to bed ( or
twelve to eighteen hours , eating nothing dur
ing that time. When they get up from , the
long sleep the body Is as flexible as rubber
the ( ace plump and rosy , the eyes , which
were dull and heavy , shining like stars , ani
oven the hands are jprcftlor ( or the rest.
Sleep does wonders ( or the disposition , too
AVe ( eel so kind and amiable toward the
whole world after a good sleep , and when
wo are peevish , sullen , sour , It Is because
we are tired out , not Because our hearts
are bad.
t
The next step toward making one's-self
handsome Is not eo quick and easy as put
ting on cosmetics , but. more pleasing and
durable and require pattenco and much
effort of the will. To. . kep'p away wrinkles
those dreadful things that Ninon de 1'En-
clos , the famous French , beauty , said ought
never to be anywhere but under a woman' ?
heel one must not Jaugh too heartily , as
the stretching of tbo skip makes those little
lines around the mouth , and eyes. A sweet
smile will do as wellnd > Is more dignified
Learn to smile with , the eyes that Is a
charming way. Every emotion of tbo heart
can be shown In the eyes , those "windows
of the soul , " it ono knows bow to , use
them , and it can be learned.
Stand before the glass and try a kind look
such as one would give a child or a dog
then a more loving expression ( or a deal
( rlend ; at last & look of melting1 tenderness
( or a lover or a husband. Now try a look 01
surprise , of displeasure , contempt , disdain
anger , ( ear , jealousy , hatred , flashes ot fire
that burn into the soul all this wltboui
moving tbo musclea of the ( ace.
After tbo eyes , the most Important ( eaturc
of the face is the mouth. What contempl
or disdain can bo shown by & slight curl up
ward of the upper lip ! What flrmnws and
hardness by tightly closing the lips ! What
iweet eadneis by A dropping of the under
Ip' What joy And happlncn by parting
ot the lips' ' What love and affection by
rounding out ot the under lip !
Now for the brow of Jove. Never push
he skin up and down while reading or
writing or thinking , making those deep fur
rows from cast to west , nor allow yourself
when deeply puttied or sorely vexed , to draw
ho brows together , causing those two ot
hrcc ugly lines from north to south over
he nose , with little branches running every
where.
The nose Is expressive , too. One can look
iroud and brave by throwing the breath Into
the ncutrlls , distending them as a race hors-
does , and ono can look moat forlorn by
pinching In the nose. The chin plays lit
i.irt , too. One can look pert and saucy by
brewing It up , meek and lowly by holding
t down. Even the checks can make one
ook like A high liver by puffing them ou
and by holding them In. to make hollows , one
has the appearance ot a person who had
eaten his last meal and did not know where
to get another.
_ Tim AUTHOR OK "TITl'S. "
All Iiitcronlttipr flint with Mr * , Flnr-
ciii-c Mcirxo Kln * ley.
In one of the fine old manor houses of
Staten Island , considerably back from the
Illago street , and deeply embosomed In
a very forest ot foliage , lives and works Mrs.
Florence Morse Klngsley , author ot those
two phenomenally successful books , "Titus"
and "Stephen "
U was just at the close of a golden
September day that I walked up the gravel
> ath to the broad piazza where Mrs. Kings *
ey , surrounded by family and friends , was
watching the last splendors of daylight fade
From placid Kill van Hull , and the glowing
heights beyccd. As I approached Mrs. Kings-
ley arose to greet me. and after briefly callIng -
Ing my attention to the extreme beauty of
the view , graciously conducted me Into the
more exclusive environment of her library
and workshop. Here I found myself vis a
vis to a charming woman , rather below
the medium height , with golden brown hair
waving gently from a fine , high forehead ,
jcautlful arched eyebrows , and wide-open ,
Intelligent , kind eyes. There was a flush
of color In her cheeks , and when the well
moulded lips parted In a smile , they but re-
vcaled the further charm of unusually flrm.
white regular teeth. Her manners , too.
were so genial , simple and sincere , that In
their easy atmosphere It seemed but a mo
ment before I was asking :
TUB WRITING OF "TITUS. "
'And what had been your literary trainIng -
Ing .and experience previous to writing
Titus ? ' "
"Nothing beyond the ordinary work of the
average school girl , " replied Mrs. Klngsley.
' 'Titus' Is the flrst story that 1 ever wrote
'or ' publication. You perhaps know that In
IS91 a publishing company offered a prize of
Sl.COO for the best story submitted to them ,
jmbodylng the life of Christ. The largest
iberty was allowed as to plot. It being only
stipulated that the style should be simple
and plain , and that the Imaginary char
acters should be brought Into Intimate rela
tion with Christ and His disciples. This
Manuscript Call' was sent me by a favorite
uncle. Dr. James II. ITcob , with the words :
You must write this , ' scrawled across.
" 'Oh. hut that Is quite out ot the ques-
lon. ' I declared , as I glanced at the little
lamphlct , 'I could not write It anyway , and
icsldcs I haven't the time. ' and cast the
in per aside without further consideration.
i suppose , however , that my subconcclous-
icss must have gone Immediately to work ,
'or a thought of It would recur to me ( rom
line to time , when suddenly one morning
at 1 o'clock I awoke with the clearly con
ceived plot of 'Titus' In my mind. I had
jogun with the thief on the cross and
worked backward to the beginning of the
story. Where It all came from Is perhaps
more of a mystery to. me than to another.
The following Monday I began and In exactly
eight weeks the book was finished : "
"But did you have to do no preparatory
reading ? "
"I read enormously while writing , of
course. But I can't help feeling that In a
way 'Titus' was an Inspired book. I seemed
to vividly sec the places I portrayed. I
would often read chapters to my mother , and
, n .all sincerity Inquire. 'Where does It come
from ? ' By the way , I hardly know myself
how much I owe to my mother's encourage
ment. She WCH so in sympathy with my
work and constantly exclaimed while I read ,
That's the book ! That's the book ! ' There
were 377 MSS. ecnt to the publishers , and
after several weeks of arduous labor the
committee decided In favor of 'Titus. ' "
' . 'And do you mean to say that the $1,000
prize was all that you ever received for a
book which has bad the unprecedented sale
of over 1,000,000 copies ? "
"Yes ; but that Is all right. It was a per
fectly straightforward business arrangement
and , of course , all the circumstances made
It r , great advertisement for me and opened
the way for whatever else 1 may write.
I have now more demands from publishers
than I can possibly fill , "
METHODS OF WORK.
"You have regularly adopted literature as
a profession , have you not , Mra. Klnpsley ? "
"It would scent so. At least , I Intend to
always write every day from 9 to 12. Here
after , however , I hope to limit my work to
the nine months of the year that the chil
dren are In school , taking ray vacations
with them. "
"And your afternoons are devoted to re
creation and research ? "
"Hardly. You know there Is always house
keeping to look after , and 1 am not suffl-
MRS. FLORENCE MORSE KINGSLEY.
clently 'literary * to leave that to others
Then there are tbo many little stockings
to darn and garments to mend. Oh , yes
I ride the wheel. My husband persuade *
me to do so , hoping that It would take mj
mind off my work , which particularly as
I approach the end of a book fairly pos
803SCS me ; and , ot course , I feel the ntraln
accordingly. "
"Your husband , by the way , hasn't a lia )
bad name , has be ? "
"Charlea Klngsley ? No , Indeed. He Is a
relative ot the Charles Klngsley of English
fame , and writes exceedingly well himself
Ho Is at present pastor of the Union church
here , a' most delightful and cultivated con
gregation. "
"Ho must be In close sympathy with the
line of your work , then ? "
"Yes ; but Is hardly a severe enough critic
to bo of real service , as bo Invariably likes
whatever I do , "
At this juncture the five children came
trooping In , ono at a time , vigorous little
men. And thus surrounded by her bes !
work , I bade adieu to the talented mother-
author.
At the ago of 1C Miss Morse was cent
to Wcllesley college , where she spent , as the
says , "three glorious years. " She did not
however , graduate with her class the clasp
of 'SI owing to a persistent throat trouble
which tbo climate of the vicinity of Boston
served to aggravate. At Wellesley Mlw
Morae took a special course In art , and after
leaving college devoted herself to drawing
and painting until tbo time of her mar
riage. The walls of her pretty Staten Island
home are well coveted with pictures bearing
her own signature.
A NATURAL GIRI/ .
Why " \VJII Yoiinir Women Try to Im
prove Upon Nature.
I cannot understand why It Is , gays a
writer In Modern Society , that so many
girls make the ralitako of trying to adop
tbo manners ot their most admired frlem
Instead of studying their own style and be
having as will best ect off that style. The
little , round Mils Dimples , who would bo
perfectly delicious It all a-ptirr and A smllr ,
who could cUp her llt'lo ' rott hands nnd
run about with her sun-bonnet hanging by
the strings , who could curl hcrclf up on
cushlot ) ! > , nnd tumble her pretty curls and
be caressing. Impetuous nnd pouting ho Is
the girl who straightens nut that drnr little
back of lifts nnd puts down primly the
little fret that would UlnVlo so prettily.
She pulls down the corners ot her rosebud
mouth , and Is grave , pullto niul dignified.
Oh , ave the mark ! Think of it ! Of course
sometimes she Is only delicious , being dig-
nlflcd , but now and then she succeeds In
being stand-onish , And then all one can do
Is to contemplate the ruin ot her childlike
charms and wonder why she docs It.
This spectacle Is sad enough , but not so
dismal as that of the Juno creature who
refutes to be a Juno and attempts the happy
soubrctto. She Is the ono who cuddles , Is
chic and skips about. Her figure In made
for flno dignity , her * features are well cut
and somewhat classic ; rcposo Is what she
wants. Those wide , serene eyes are splen
did If allowed to Illuminate one with a level
loneliness , but they are ruined In to Ing
to twinkle and sparkle. Her shoulders are
magnificently poised In statuesque quiet ,
but when they are wrlggli'd and shrugged
they are only clumsy Ot course the Juno
girl Is always vtiro to admire her little
pussy friend , but she must tcmcmbcr that
she cannot bo pussy , and that many people
admire her own type. U Is only fair to
them that she thoulJ not spoil It.
Then there Is the big girl , who must cul
tivate a touch of hauteur uot the Indiffer
ent serenity of the classic girl , but the
hauteur of the perfectly "poised niomlalne.
Here Is a high-bred scorn of commonplace ;
she holds her head aloft , cultivates all ele
gant conventionality , associates herself with
the Imperative rustic of petticoats , Is adept
In the latest social forms , always perfectly
groomed , always faultless armored In man
ner. This Is a difficult typo to sustain , but
FO rare and beautiful a one that It Is a
shame to sec such a girl wasting her chances
doing the Ingenue. The aesthetic type Is
out of style , but the tall , very slender girl ,
with well-shaped hands and a wistful beauty ,
a little wan , who looks best In soft lights
and loose gowns , bad better go In for grace
ful languor , for an appealing lassitude. She
will simply ruin herself by being energetic
and athletic.
Then the snub-nosed little girl , who
freckles , whoso figure Is stumpy , who has
a head of hair that will make Itself Into a
shock , whose muscles arc easily hardened
and whose health Is perfect , why should
she rob the world ot the delightful tom
boy for which she was meant and try to be
an airy flirt of ball room tendencies ? Oh.
girls , study your own style. It may not be
the style you prefer , but , remember , In
hcsc days It Is Individuality that counts.
Knnliloit Notcn ,
Stockings In small checks of various col
ors arc the latest.
The new , very smart , very elegant , very
'ashlonable evening toilet has a train.
The correct shoo for the present pleas
ant weather Is the patent leather HP , worn
with a cloth gaiter to match the gown.
This season thcro arc a Countess Castcl-
anc cape , a Paget Jacket and an elaborate
duchess ot Marlborough prlnccsso dress and
picture hat.
Queen Bess sleeve puffs and Queen Bess
ruffs and fraUcs appear upon elegant dress
toilets of velvet , Lyons satin and brocaded
moire.
Many of the yokes and chatelaine and
: nuttonleg sleeves on French and English
; owns are laid In tucks that arc often an
Inch and a quarter wide.
* Corded silks and ribbed woolens and vel
vets will be extremely popular for handsome
gowns , entire street costumes and clcgan :
wraps this wlnicr. *
Large muffs are made In various kinds of
fur , very plain In style , but very extravagant
as to quantity of fur and Jeweled gold chains ,
by which they are suspended from the neck.
Tulcs and gauzco , according to a Paris cor
respondent , arc to bo the most fashionable
materials for evening gowns for young
ladles , especially those who next year are tc
make their social debut.
Monogram fans for bridesmaids are a
pretty ( asrlon revived recently ; the letters
ire traced In diamonds or painted In tiny
rorgct-mc-nots on the outsldo rib , according
to the wealth o ( the giver.
Fashionable people are said more than
ever lo be kuown by the dimensions of the
sofa pillows they have In the drawing room.
It Is a popular Impression now that the
larger they are the more fashionable their
possessors.
The cape collar Is usually made of one
fur edged with another , or Is of rich silk
velvet , with deep round yoke of embroid
ered kid , or of the velvet Iteelt Inlaid with
elegant passementerie or bead arabesques
en applique.
Black costumes are always In style to a
certain degree , but they take a prominent
place this season , not , however. Interfering
ct all with tlio elegant costumes In their
endless colorings , but giving a flno rich con
trast and background to the more brilliant
attire.
Ne-v Importations of fans for ( ull dress oc
casions show a tendency to return to the
very large ones , that were In vogue a ( ew
years ago. Something new In fans arc those
with jeweled sticks. The latter. It may bo
superfluous to state , cannot be had at the
department stores.
The fur boleros will be a useful ( ashlon
( or those who have a email amount of fur
to bo transformed Into a fashionable gar
ment. These arc very becoming to slight
figures , and very stylish with wide revers.
The new fur coats arc rather short , not so
full In the basque as they were last scabon ,
and have loose fronts.
The rage for the early part of the winter
season will be for cape collars , oddly shaped
colhrettes. fichus with long stole ends , ami
bolero , Zouave , and Eton jackets made of
furs Innumerable the jackets exactly like
these so familiar ( or seasons past , made of
lace , net , silk , velvet , passementerie , etc.
In the matter of fall millinery there are a
lot of novel things pretty enough to recom
mend themselves to any woman. The tur
ban Is the bat par excellence of the mo
ment , and probably will be until late Into
the season , when the never-failing picture
hat will chlno forth as Imposing as ever.
Sleeves were never more varied In style
or prettier or more becoming In their nor
mal outlines and picturesque effects than
those designed for the winter season. They
are a most satisfactory compromise bctweci
the ridiculous balloons of seasons past am
the torturlngly tight and unbecoming shapes
of other days.
Among the various things that Importers
and retailers arc exhibiting this seaman are
small ( ur garments and trimmings In novc
shapes and styles ; superb spangled , EC
qulnc < l and Jewel-wrought dress and wrai
garnitures ; brown silk plushes that o
closely copy sealskin that It would take an
expert to tell the difference without close
inspection.
The new reppcd ( abrlcs are softer am
richer looking than ever , but the chief dls
tUx = ulshlng ( eaturc Is found In the bcautlfu
color-blending effected In the weaving , In
a handsome pattern one of the cords Is a
delicate old rose , and tbo other a eofi sllvc
gray , and the cords are woven en bayadere
on a changing ground that unites these two
shades with pale blue.
Among the new shades In mohair , Engllsl
eergo and bourette fabrics for traveling
costumes , touchwood and nasturtium an
the newest shades In brown. Mahogany I
another sha'dc that flnds favor , and al
browns with a reddish tinge. Pigeon gray
Is liked on mohairs , tweeds and Frenc !
suitings , and a rich Russian blue among
tailor cloths , Venetian and ladles' cloths.
Leagues of black satin or black velvc
ribbon are used on autumn and winter drcsa
skirts and bodices. Brnldes the usual use
to which ribbons are put they are mad
to simulate narrow girdles and wldo ( oldci
celnturcs , to outline bolero jackets , to form
a peasant bodice back and ( rant on the cor
cage , and they are u ed , In rows , and bows
and choux , on every available portion o
gowns both ( or day and evening vicar.
Feminine Note * .
Mrs. Francis Hodgson Burnett , It Is said
makes a larger Income than any other
woman writer In the world.
Edna Lyall has been made honorary necro
tary ot the East Bourne Liberal association
of London. Of popular authors ulio Is prob
ably tbo most Interested In politics.
Ellen Terry still suffers ( rom a trouble
with her eyes. Her new role ot Irnogeno for
the Lyceum opening she has learned by hav
ing It read to her over and over again.
Frauleln Lou Andreas Saloml , a German
lady , has Just appeared In tbo ranks as a
novelist Her story , "Ruth , " which U the
omnrp of a school girl , has evoked mucK
rnlic from the critics.
Pilnccuft llclonn of Montenegro , who Is to
uarry the crown prince of Italy , Is a poet ,
nd many ot her vcr c have been set to'
mimic and arc sung by the peasants In all
arts of theprincipality. .
Mmc. Melwonler has Just completed super-
nteitdlng the Art book on Mclasoncr. Th
ook will contain a grcnt number ot sketches' '
nd drawing * not jc-t reproduced , nlio sev-
ral text illustrations and fifty engraved'
latcs.
Queen WllhclmlnA ot Holland has not yet
ommcnced the study ot 'Herman , owing ta
ho respect wnlch Is paid the prejudices ot
er late father , and ono naturally wonder *
. hat he would think ot her betrothal to a
Icrman prince.
Miss Londonderry , the famous American
votu.in nho spent two years In her tour
round the world , has reached New York
City with $8,000 over her cxpensce , the
renter portion ot which was m do by car-
ylng advertisements from noted firms on
icr bike.
Rider ' "She" Is
Haggard's famous now
cad In real earnest at least the supposed
rlglnal of that curious creation , MajaJIc.
he m > stlcal queen of the African Wood *
ush tribes. The good womnti died at tin
Ipc age ot ISO , &nd her successor Is alto
cry old woman.
Mrs. Rebecca Keener , St years old , re-
Idlng near White Oak , PA. , has never seen
, locomotive or train of earn , fllthough sha
an hear the whistle of the engines troui
icr home. She Is an active woman , and
Iocs all the work about her home. She And
icr husband recently celebrated the sixtieth
nnlversary of their marriage.
Mile. Marcclla Prcgl , who has Just bcoa
ngaged to sing at the Cologne festival , has
nado very rapid progress In her profession ,
" avlng appeared iheflrst time at the ago ot
, and later she studied for many years at
ho Paris Conservatoire , and recently her
Inglng has been extolled by the German
rltlcs.
The princess of Wales has now held her
Itle Just over thlrty-thrro years-a period
vhlch has been exceeded by o'uly one of
icr predecessors. Augusta , the daughter of
Gcorgo II. who was for thirty-five yearn
irlncess of Wales. But the grer.t tenacity
f the queen makes It probable that her
aughtcr-In law will bo a record-breaker
s well as herself.
Queen Victoria has recently had a lakn
amcd In her honur. The explorer , Frcdcr-
ck Jackson , who Is called the rescuer ot
S'ansen. has named the large waterway
vhlch he discovered. In what Is known as
'ranz Josef Land , the Victoria sea. It ex-
endfl from seventy miles beyond his winter
uarters to within three degrees of the
S'orth polo.
Mrs. de Navarro , who was the famous ac-
res6 , Mary Anderson , gave birth to a boy
vho Is already. In this short time , develop-
ng Into a baby who Is certainly handsome ,
ccordlng to the opinion of connoisseurs
vho sco beauty In babies , and In declared ,
iy those who Know him , i" bo positively
lever. The Interesting event occurred at
Vlmbledon , where Mr. and Mrs. do Na-
arro arc living. In a bouse owned by Lady
Tennjeon's sister.
Napoleon's niece , Princess Mathllde , daugh-
cr of Jerome Bunapartc. once king ot West
phalia , Is the new Do Stacl of Paris. Her
lospltallty has for Intellectual men attrac-
lens sul gonerls. Her home at St. Gratlen ,
an hour's ride from Paris , Is the center for
i brilliant coterie of artists , authors and
talesmen. The princess herself is a flno
artist and. although 75 years old , spends
some time at her easel every day.
Miss Minnie Murray of Nashua , la. , 'Ilio
Voman In White" In the Chicago convention ,
\ho almost stampeded the convention away
rom Bryan and to ex-Governor Boles. Is
making .campaign speeches In that state.
Curiosity to sec the woman who almost alone
ran a national convention Is giving her rea
sonably good audiences. The national popo-
cratlc committee has arranged appointment *
or her In other contiguous states.
Mrs. Frank Leslie , Just now buck from .
Iftecn months' sojourn to the old country ,
s writing a new nnd strong novel and has
conceived the plot for a very original jilay.
which she will write at an early day. From
icr successful business career it Is thought
she Is well adopted for starting a tiuw even
ing paper , tor It Is remembered that It was
at her suggestion that the old Morning ;
Journal commenced using Illustrations ,
which have since become such a prominent
feature ot newspaper work generally.
Dr. Lydla Rablnovllsch , the first Russian
voman who has succeeded In the profession
ot medicine , has entered upon her duties In
ho new Bacteriological LaborAtory of Iho-
Woman's Medical college at Philadelphia.
She Is planning to Introduce some reforms
and to enter upon an Investigation which. It
successful , will widely benefit the health ot
the whole world. Mine. Rablnovltsch came
to the United States In 1S95 , having pre
viously taken the degree of Ph. D. at the-
University at Zurich. Later she studied
pedagogy nt Bonn , nnd shortly after was ad
mitted to Prof. Koch's laboratory , being the
first woman and thus ( ar tbfconly one per
mitted to work In that sanctum.
V/hcn tlic hair begins to fall out and lose Us
lustre niid beauty by turning gray or faded , what
more evidence i > tic-cdcd to prove that its health
is nlTcctcd ? nud that it needs medicine ? No
more , I ai-.urc you , for there Is a cause for every
cymptom that tliclialr gives of turnluir gray or
beauty in any form. Her as the hair Is
n part of the human body , ills * ti ! > jcct to nilmcnt
ns v.'cll a" any oilier part , and therefore should
be treated intelligently. But contrary to this
common.scnsc logic , no greater insult or worse
abuse could be heaped upon this defenseless
member of our person than tlic use of hair dye.
To color tlic I-oor tick hair uith hair dye , end
thcrcbv droivn its feeble cry for nourishment , Is
In Itr.clf n rln an J a crime against nature. Shame
on ignorant humanity that will not yield to the
laws of nature and study the uccds of their own
body.
body.Mnie. . M. Yale's
iir Tonic
Is n medicine for curing 6lcU hair. It ls the only
remedy on record known to restore the natural
color to nrcy hair. It nourishes the roots and
gives circulation to the oil ducts , permeating it
with nature' * own coloring matter Hint ( low *
through the channels of the hair when It ia In on
healthful slate as faithfully as the warm blood
docs through our veins.
Mine. Yale' * Hair Tonic Is the result of n care.
ful analysis of the human hair by Mrae. Yale ,
that wonderful woman chemist and scientist ,
whouarantcc4 | Yale's Hair Tonic locontalii pre
cisely the natural constituents of the hair1 * own
matter prepared in a chemical form. U stop *
tlie hair falling in from twenty-four hours lotmc
week. Cures Uandrulf ; soltrns dry , harsh hair ;
maUes the hair soil , flossy and Duffy ; keepi It
In curl , and cures all manner of scalp diseases
M.cl hair ailments , producing a growth ol luxuri
ant hair of Its own rich , natural color , no matter
what that may lie black , blonde or brown.
For children and adult * mules or females.
Ji.oo per bottle ; tlx for fs.oo. ( " )
HME. M.YALE , I ) nnt > and Oomplailon ffitclilUL
Tempi. otl ) utr , 110 otU BU etCUt e.
