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fttfte ito
THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. -
COI.OHS AM ) FA f IIUCS.
flip : V'iMV < * Bt "Winter Wcnvi-n ,
nnil DrMlKii" .
NEW VOIlK. Sept. 25. Late lny > ortn-
tlons of autumn anil winter dress materials
show some stunning novelties In color anil
design. A few plain cloths , faced cloths , as
the Inllora call them , nro seen , but thry
no longer have tlie flrst place , as last winter ,
In fashionable favor. The now stuffs arc
flowered , ribbed , striped , checked and
plalded , or else are In eccentric weaves ,
some showing chatiKpable color effects that
nro very handsome. The 7cbellno novelties
nro especially beautiful. The new malice In
thceo cloths nro even lighter In weight
and more- silky to the touch than thoBO
HOUSE QOWN OP WHITE AND MAUVE
STHU'BI ) SILK.
of last year ; Indeed all of the now stuffs
look as If manufacturers had this light
ness of weight in mind as well as thick
ness an.l warmth.
The rtfoim was badly needed , for since
the era of crinoline and wide nklrts , with
the old heavy stuffs , the weight of a
modish winter gown has been a serious
drawback to the peace and health of many
women. There is one reason perhaps that
plain cloths are going out. They could not
bo made as light weight as rough or cling
ing textures , nnd so are to bo put on the
shelf with the stout halrcolths nnd I In on
canvases once used for stiffening , and cried
down by doctors and sensible folk.
Ono of the nouvcautes In the zubellnes la
covered with long silky black hairs on a col-
nnowN SUIT.
orcd ground , In the making , n plain weave
bolus often used In combination with this.
Thcro are also many rich pl.iln colons ,
supnrb dahlia reds and purples , nnd
heather mixtures , in these camel's hair
wools , for of couisu vcbollno Is only an
other nnuie for camel's hair , A combina
tion of the strange metallic blues and greens
that distinguished the summer Is also much
BCCU ; and. Indeed , this curious green nnd
blue coloring , flrst confined to hat trim
mings nnd taffeta shirt waists , threatens to
be a marked feature of many of the winter
modes.
In nuwberi of the wool materials It Is
I
ALl'ACf'A AND UIlinON VHLVKT.
even seen in combination with -several ether
iliailos. as a background for chocks or plaldn j
or showing In ovun mixture * . The result
U fascinatingly novel utiO , as a rule , ex
tremely im' ( 'coming
NEW COLON PCIfKMKS
Many hauJtouie gras and combination !
ot black and white nro scon In these soft ]
wodls , ami still others combine bright vloa 1
let moss green and wallflower > ellow , with
a web of black threads , black stripes , or
ribs , softening the whole.
The new boucle cloths hnvc also much
of the camel's hair softness and fineness
of the zebollnc-s , hut the little loops of I
elo ely-curlcd hair which cover these are !
no longer scattered Irregularly , but are nrp
ranged In set patterns , like the figures of
brocade.
On n design of a deep purple background I
coven d with great black bunches of grapes |
and leaver , the hair loops were massed so
floscly together that they had the effect ot
velvet. 1'lack velvet , of course , would bo
the trlmnilnn for this , lut a boucle wool ,
because of Its furry look alone. Is more
suited lo winter than autumn lino.
Silk lines , cords or waved creponated fig-
tires of silk , with the raised effect of brocade -
cado , are seen In some of the lighter wools
for autumn use , but there are all-wool bro
cades will , only a contrast In color that
arc less expensive nnd very effective.
Many of the old basket weaves nro seen
In plain and molted homespun nnd In plain
soft wools on the hop-sacking order. Wide
and narrow ottoman cords distinguish oth
ers , and silks ns well , nnd some of the
basket wools are so loosely woven that they
are as opci. as lattice work. These , how
ever , are only shpwn In short lengths and
are not intended to be used for the entire
gown.
They nro Imported ns vestlngs to bo
placed over silks , in a contrasting color ,
the tint of the gown material matching
the "lattice. "
Smart vestlngs for tailor gowns of plain ma
terial are the saino smooth English cloths
known to the tailors ns "Tattenialls , " that
appeared In the spring. They are also In
about the same designs , plnhcad dots or
stars of tan , white , black or red on other
color grounds , or else bold plaids and checks
that arc as horsey as can be.
TUB LINEN COLLAR.
With the Tattersall vest a standup linen
collar nnd narrow bowtlo will be In order ,
and It Is claimed by dressmakers that this
neat check finish will often appear with the
dressy gowns as well , oven with those of rich
materials and much furbelowcd.
Hy way of illustration of the Imminent
possibility of this , one falseuse of reputa
tion showed two ravishing promenade toilets
with Htlff linen collars and chemisette at-
tnchmentR. The latter were finely tucked
and delicately embroidered between In vines
and around the high collars with bent
points at the front were arranged the nar
row black satin ties which have been so Im
portant a feature of dress this summer.
The gowns were respectively of Vene
tian cloth , showing In the diagonal wear n
i Ich plum under black and n soft black
and Whlto "magplo" wool. The design ot
this last was n narowlsh gored skirt tilmmcd
with flno rolled folds of black velvet and a
loose sac-Jacket with small velvet rovers.
The chapeau In its train vvns equally rav
ishing and carried out the black nnd white
effect of the gown.
A little turban of folded black velvet was
the shape , from one jaunty side ot which
floated a white paradise aigrette , held down
by a round jet ornament. The whole thing
was "too sedulsant" to quote the
falseuhe.
The Venetian cloth had a close habit
bodice , V-shaped at the neck to show the
linen chemisette , and was mngnlficcntly
braided with black.
"Wool Slclllcnne , " a clossy material with
a raised cord Is the name of ono of the new
gown stuffs for street wear. "Velours bro-
cado" Is the title of another , which Is a sort
of mixed cloth In rich tones of
several colors , subdued by irregular de
signs or eccentric arabesques of black vel
vet over the surface. Sometimes this * black
N civet mcr-pattern will have the designs
formed by narrow lines which gives the look
of a soft bi aiding over the rich back
ground.
DOMINANT I1LUES
As to new colors along with the mad
greens ami blues mentioned there is a new
blue that Is almost as Intense as the old-
fashioned "royal" tint. It is softer than
mazarine without any of the black or pur
ple of the navy shades and Is known at ,
marine blue.
Combined with black velvet or trimmed
with any of the black braids that Hood
the market , this wonderful color has the
Hash of a jewel set in ebony. Also it Is
more commonly becoming than the tiylng
vlollne bhadi-s of winter. And when It is
worn by a led haired woman , especially If
she has other claims to good looks It Is
radiantly beautlf > ing.
The dahlia colors range all the way from
a deep plum Into tints that are plainly
magenta , and which will bo found becom
ing to only pale dark skins.
Certain shades of blue and gray have n
cold tinge of tslato In them and are ulso try
ing to any but the heaven-blest In the
way of complexion , llrowns are numerous
and embrace all the enhancing autumn
tints , toning from red to yellow.
In the serges and winter mahalrs , which
are woven more loosely and are of a splen
did softness , there are t > omo handsome
blues , greens , the dahlia tints of purple ,
nnd several shades of gray and brown.
Sl'LUNDIP SILKS.
In the silk line there has been an up
heaval in the policy of manufacturers. The
taffeta fillka nnd other thin , cheap weaves
are giving way to heavy moires nnd rich
brocades that have a stately , old-world dig
nity nud corresponding magnificence.
The colors In these also lean toward n
revival of the old tints worn a century ago ;
dim , soft pinks that look like deep colors
faded brocaded with gold or silver feath
ers , with great , fitirr bouquets oval minia
tures framed with love knots at the top ;
other silks , gros grains. In primrose , apri
cot , mauve and wallflower colors , figured
with uncut velvet In another tint. Another
gios grain silk shadowed subtly In long
streaks Is called ombre , and Is a shade lesn
expensive than the brocades ,
These gorgeous materials are , of course ,
for evening use.
They will bo made up Into court tinlns ,
with petticoats of plain silk on lace , and
laru trimmings on the bodice.
The new evening girl Is to bo a very
stately person ; magnificently gowned , bejeweled -
jeweled nnd haughty , ot course , till by and
by the plctuiu of hen > clf in n chiffon frock
will faeem like her own grandmother In n
miniature fn-me. NINA FITCH.
_
A WOMAN HlVXh Till : ItOAD.
MINN .li-NNlf D.'ll , Anilltur i > f ( In- < * yl-
aiilii & lltifky Fiii'd llu llroail.
Miss Jessie Dell ot Geoigla Is probably
the only young woman in the United States
who Is the auditor of a railroad. Although
she Is not yet 22 jcaia old , she has held
that place on the Sylvunia tallroad for al
most thiTf years
Her father. Colonel John C. Dell , Is presi
dent of the railroad. He Is a prominent
lawyer anJ n inau of extensive political In
fluence It was through Miss Uell'H devotion
to her father ( .hat she first began to take
an Interest In the affalis of the laliroad ,
and in hU law practice as well , By her
discernment and Judgment she noon gained
his confidence , and umall business matters
were committed to her , She gradually fa
miliarized herself with all the departments
of the railroad's management and wlun a
vacancy occuried In the olllce of auditor
slu applied to her father for theplace. .
With a good deal of reluctance he appointed
her , and she has discharged the duties of
the ottlco with entire efficiency ,
Tasted are sent to her rogulaily as auditor
of the road by nil the other railroads of the
couth. They are often mads out to "Jcsto
Dell , " nnd she frequently receives commu
nications addressed to "J , Dell , esq , " tiles
Dell'e duties do not take her eutlro time ,
and she devotes part of her leisure to get
ting up excursions and picnics , from which
the railroad may reap an added benefit. Sbei
nmkts n note of every coming tvent at
placet ) along the road , and when the proper
time- route * BUggcitu to her friends the pos-
Hlblllty of an excursion.
.Meeting a. group of girl * lit a boda water
ntund or In a store , she mentions that A bis
political meeting U to bu held , and that It
may bo the last chunce to hear the speakers
who are to nuke the addresses , Then ehu i
prevails upon sorao joung man to circulate
a paper on which to obtain the names of
those t who are willing to attend the meet-
Ing. When n sufllclr'nt number of these
have been obtained she apprises her father
and assists him In making the train ar
rangements. Then some amateur dramatic
performance In n neighboring town will
claim her attention. She confides to a few
popular chaperons that n select and exclu
sive excursion Is to bo made up to attend It.
I' The ' party Is made up and a special train Is
chartered. Another field for this activity Is
offered by the rhcnp excursions of the Cen
tra I ! Railroad of Georgia , of which her roart
Is a branch. Last fall she successfully en
gineered a consldeiable reduction In rates
on her road foi upcc'nl days nt the Atlanta
exposition On ono of these occasions the
Idea of having nil the school children attend
In a delegation occurred to her. She Inter
viewed the principal nnd gntned his consent
to give four holhlajs , nnd conducted the i
delegation. Mls-i Dell prefers to have the
general public consider her father the promoter
meter of manv of Hie schemes , but her
personal supervision Is usually well known ,
Pho sometimes disputes with the president
the price of round trip exclusion rates.
Miss Dell , though iinofflclous , takes a per
sonal business Interest Jn every employe
of the road. Her power Is rospcoted. and
she Is vastly popular ns well. An nnnislng
Instance of her Importance occtli'rcil on
the occasion ot a large excursion to the
sea shore. The necessary . .Hcbodulo was
difficult to adjust. The trip being ex
pensive vas not at first popular , .but Miss
Jessie secured some concession1) from the
Central railroad nnd the trnln was filled
when the starting time came. It wna to j ,
leave nt C In the morning , but JIIss Dell i
did not appear on time , and the , trnln I
awaited her coming. The tlmo of departure
went by. The engineer decided that by [ 1
means ot shorter stops nnd faster running 1
than usual he could make the trip. The
warning whistle blew , the bell rang , the
passengers ) murmured. The train had to
leave without her. She arrived just too
late at the depot. The station master telc-
giaphed for the train to wait for her nt
the flrst crossing , a milo out of town. She
boarded It there and it rushed on at a
frightening speed , arriving at the Junction
barely In time to make the connection.
Although Miss Hell holds a position of re
sponsibility on her father's road , she Is
greatly averse to being considered a public
woman , nnd has a private post box vvlieio
nil reports are sent to her , and she trans-
nets her business at home. In the absence
of her father the emplojcs go to her homo
for Information and instruction. Miss Dell
shows unfailing interest In her father's law
practice. She discusses with him the Im
portant cases , and In the absence cf his
paitner at the state senate recently , she
assumed the petition of confidential sec
retary. The business could not be done bj
Colonel Uell alone , and the affairs were too
grave to bo Intrusted to Inferior Clprks or to
any outsider. ,
s I > OCKITS.
The XMV AiiinoiiiiT N , in * ( } | > MlrtN ,
Um-il Iiy Smart \Voinrii.
A woman's pocket Is usually a snare am'
a delusion , hard .s roach and holding little
so , after many experiments , she has vvlselj
returned to her trusty hand or' / > Ule bag
This has given the trade In Dutch , Frenci
and Italian silver hag clasps a boom and
genuine examples of this ilicient | molal
'
work are more difficult to secure'and more
costly than ever.
Of course they make them In imitations ,
quite as beautiful and equally as serviceable ,
but the heart of every woman Is just now
yearningly bent on not only wearing- bhlo
bag but suspending this , along with two
or three , other things , from a genuine Nor
wegian belt.
The belt is silver , In linked flat pieces of
the alzo of a dollar and wonderfully walked.
NEW BAGS. a
,
At ono point a silver plcco ls replaced by a
stout ring , Into which the alilo bag U
hooked , together with at least three con
veniences of life ; a pair of scissors , 9 via-
aigrette and a watch , for Instance. Bach
QUO of these tits into a case made of
material to match the bag and finished
ivHh bllvcr around the corners. A really
truly old Norwegian belt baa depending
from U , In leather cases , a quaintly curious
Ink horn and pen handle , with which the
seventeenth century housewife used to inako
out her housekeeping accounts , list her
llneu and chlnawuru , and keep tier memo
randum of the llttlo prentice girl's duties
mid the servants' vvagrs.
Modern Ink In the born and a gold point
In the odd pen handle makes , for the up-
to-date woman a picturesque but rather
nvkvsard medium by vvhlcb to write out tier
rtr
shoplne Hrt fttul keep her accounts. Dut
Norwegian 'Hr ' iot , the new * ldo bags are
nil made to < jwing from a girdle to avoid
pulling out oWA aklrt belt , with their heavy
hooks nnd ii4p > , and the handsome modern
ones have , flflch.ln their silver tops , a pretty
little watchi'scr ' ! .
Very splfndfcj tc-ps are not any longer
fitted to bag * of chamois or blackleather.
A richly UUiteil llrard skin , of very fine
scale , or gorgeous embossed Spanish leather
Is the thins'The Spanish material Is not
only ctabor WW carved , but decorated with
gliding and colors , to bring out the figures
and groupsultnhigh relief.
All these ornaments are meant as well to
render casjPthft process of one's daily busi
ness as ai6ilho equally fine hand antl car
riage bags , , which now constitute valued
wedding gifts. The carriage bag Is not In the
least on the pattern of the Boston bag , but
Is n sumptuous little satchel of rich greener
or brown enameled leather , with a silver
clasp nnd a silver mounted handle. Inside
a rich ribbed cardinal silk Is emplojcd for
lining and , In pockets , fit a silver topped
nalU bottle , a card case , purse , memorandum
book , box of fragrant pantiles , pencil case
nnd n valuable * llltlo leather case , made to
hold samples. The bar ; Is sufllclently largo
to contnln the smaller shopping parcels ,
extra gloves , clean handkerchiefs , n bank
book nnd such odds and ends as a woman
nerds when she gees on a combined calling
and purchasing excursion.
Just ns valuable , though not quite BO
splendid , Is the hand bag In brown elephant
skin , that Is inado fof one to fold out one
sldo on a counter or on one's knee , nnd
vulto ont n bit ot n note , a postal card era
a telegram. This portfolio sldo hac station-
cry In It. with n fountain pen , stamps nnd
even sealing vatf , done up In the smallest
possible compass. IJven Indoors , at church
and for calling , some sort ot u pouch U
now n fashionable addition to one's toilet ,
but It Is not called a sldo bag. Aunionlcro
or gypslre Is the proper term nnd the bag
Is swung from the waist , or attached lo
one's belt , at the left side. Alms nro sup
posed to bo gifts of the heart , so an uumou-
lere , by n quaint enameled pin , Is fastened
to the left sldo ot the bodice nt the waist
line. It Is usually made pocket jluiio , with
n folding flap nnd Is fashioned out ot a
rich plcco of old brocade , or fine old bit of
embroidered velvet or satin. All about btil-
lion fringe is used for edging und for chut.-h
going one's plate money nnd handkerchief.
are deposited therein.
The gjpslre bungs almost to the knee by
SOME AUTUMN FANCIES.
two Jeweled chains , or It can equally ns
effectively suspend nearly to the floor by a
couple of chain * ; , fastened to n bracelet on
one's right arm. The bracelet bag is very
( mall , a tiny pouch , with a gold mouth and
bag of silk tapestry all Interwoven with gold
nnd silver threads. One's finest lace hand
kerchiefs and n smelling bottle fit In here ,
nlcng 'with a rose perhaps , while the gyp-
sire , from the belt , Is by far the most mag
nificent trifle women have yet worn.
Its wldo mouth or top Is ot gold , the bag
of silk net , worked over with glittering
beads. The bead work icpreseuts marvelously -
ously executed figures and long bead fringes ,
flashing blue , green , purple and gold , edge
the bag. Whatever you like may be slipped
In this gjpslre. along with n few of the larger
gold coins that , as the knee strikes the
bag , when one walks , tinkle with a decid
edly rich , melodious sound.
AWUI3.V A ( > IIAMv IJKI'OSITOIIS.
Di'imHiiiciiiM IlNtnlillMlitMl for Their
Coii ( * niiice > ,
An Individual belonging to the sterner
sex once made u mlnuto and exhaustive
study of womankind , As the result of his
llfc-lom ; lahc-r he announced that ho had
discovered that a woman was nfrald of two
things , a mouse and the Inside of a bank.
Ono of the things everybody kngw before and
the other Is rapidly being proved untrue ,
The amount of business carried on with
the Chicago banks by women deposltois
forms no Insignificant percentage of the en
tire. banking tiansactlons of tlie city , najn
the Chicago Tribune. It Is a percentage. ,
too , which is steadily Increasing. Women
with bnnk accounts not wealthy wouieil ,
but tho.se of moderate means are no rarity.
There are plenty of them who , In a financial
way , "paddle their own canoes , " though
It keeps nioi o than n few of them busy flg-
uilng out how they btand.
It is now a number of years since the first
of tlm "women's departments , " with facil
ities for bpeclnl accounts , was established In
the city. In 1891 , when. Ihu First National
bank took up quartets In the building which
bears Its name , the Initial organization ot
the department was effected. Hefore that (
tlmo It had been held uomcwhal In the light
nt nil off-shoot from the regular business ,
but it then took' Its place as a part of the
system , llu scheme has not been widely
Hpiead amou ' ( .lie banks In the city , at least
has not bec'i ) , generally adopted , but whether
possessed of4 fc ieclal department or not all t
tliu banks' bajft a goodly share of women
among thosq.fflJTylnK accounts ,
c
" 'Tin thlsj/j.jfj / bank ofllclal once remarked ,
"has dlmuied , , Uio luster of niy eye and
wasted iny WLU4 cheek. " .
But ho AwYi H rather strongly. The !
"evil" of WjOtyen depositors , as It Is politely '
termed , hou > p er great It may he from tbu J.
point of view. 4f the receiving and paying [
teljers , has-I- , ] ' conipcnsatlug features. It
Is true , or 4 ( cast bank officials siy It Is
true , tiat | vw > 4en give considerable trouble
to bank ejuployes , "Tho best of women Is
nothing mqf/ > . ) lias bceiv neatly said , and
though It 1ms been at neatly answered by
"What morfl d'/ ' / you want ? " the fact still t
remains , 'fUfti spectacle of fair femininity 1
laboriously t iijiutlus twejvo plus three by 1t
means of qif'ucll , and paper Is no uncom 1v
mon one , and there is more than a little v
truth in the utory of the deep-thinking J
wife , who examined her husband's gift of i
bank book showing a neat deposit In her b
name , and 6 a hi t
"U' very nice of you , dear , nnd I appre I
ciate It * but I almost think I would rather c
have had the mono'/ ' I
FAILINGS OF WOMEN. i
There Is a comparative lack of punctuality 1t 1
about the average woman , unless HUB hap 1f t
pens to bo of the "business woman" variety f
not a deliberate disregard of time , but a t
failure to appreciate Its significance , There f J
la also a frequently observable Ignorance of 1
banking rules , due , not to Incapacity , but \
distaste for learning them. Moreover , there
Is now and then a propensity to overdraw
accounts , and -very commonly a deep-seated
Inability to get balances straight. Added to
these there Is a tendency among such as arc
new to the surroundings or have need of
seldom visiting them to get "rattled. " The
flrst tlmo a woman enters the bank to trans
act buulncM in a time of trial for her. A
bank Is a strange and nwc-lnrplrlng thing ,
filled with remarkable regulations and un
couth practices , \vhcroln pcoplo do outlandish
things In outlandish ways. She Is afraid ot
making a slip , because she Is not quite cer
tain , no matter how much she has been
coached at homo , of the right way to go
about her business , and she Is A little afraid
ot furnishing cause for mirth.
"You can usually tell a woman who Is new
at It , " said an employe of ono ot the Chicago
banks , "tho Instant she enters the doorway.
She Is nervous and she visibly summons all
hep courage before she approaches the win
dow. Sometimes she goes to the nearest
window firsl and then asks al every window
down Iho line before reaching the ono she
wants. Then she either asks Information
before every move or carries things with n
high , though rather uncertain , hand , In ao
cordanco with the lesson she has learned al
homo. "
After hearing theap facts ono might well
Infer that the business with women deposit-
nrs must bo an undcslrablo and unprofitable
ono for the banks , In fact , thai the buikn
would be better oft without It. This , how
ever , Is not so. Indeed , tlip reverse Is the
case- , and , ns Is witnessed by the womei't , !
dcpaitmciits , the banks rather enter to that
sort of business. And It Is not through any
excess of gallantry , either.
LITTLE STANDING IN LINE.
The women's departments are designed lor
an easy and rapid transaction of business ,
primarily to do away with the necessity of
standing In line , which Is a sore trial to the
avt rngo woman , unless endured for the sake
of theater tickets. With the growth of that
special line of business , however , waiting In
line has become more common and U Is not
Unusual to see half a dozen or more repre
sentatives of the gentle sex lined up before
Iho women's window. Still , this Is now hero
ncnr the number of persons to bo found be
fore the windows devoted to general busi
ness , and the women's department has not
} et lost the advantage of rapid working. The
department , while , of course , n part of the
bnnk s.vstem , Is kept distinct from the gen
eral accounts. It has special paving nnd
receiving tellers , a special force of book
keepers , and a separate bank organization.
It is a line of business In which the banks
ran afford to be lenient regarding slight
mistakes , for It Is an especially safe and
certain one. Banks , of course , deny that
there Is over such a thing ns "overdraw
ing" In connection with their workings , but
certainly such things are heard of. There
Is leas overdrawing done by women than
men ; Indeed , despite the tendencies before
mentioned , there Is almost none ot It to be
found In the women's departments. This
Is duo to two veiy simple reasons. First ,
the bank officials moved perhaps by an Idea
that the nvciago woman Is a somewhat Irre
sponsible creature , are more than com
monly careful not to cash checks In excess
of the amount of the actual balances. Second
end , the business usually transacted Is of
the most simple kind Women are almost
Invariably cash customers. They deposit
money or dividend checks nnd then draw
money out. This Is the extent ot their
business.
MEN ASK MORE CONCESSIONS.T
It Is. true that the money made by banks
Is due to the accommodations granted their
customers "for n consideration. " Still , for
this very reason many men feel that they
can ask , and Indeed demand , concessions
nut commonly glv < n. It Is an added and
unproductive risk for the bank v.-htch women
seldom require. It otteji happens , though
perhaps It cannot be called customary , that
checks are accepted or certified on the same
day that drifts , the payment of which Is
uncertain , me ncccpted to meet them. The
dishonoring ot the accepted draft would
bo the occasion of an overdraft , but In the
deslie to oblige customers this is neglected.
Moreover , women do net meddle with their
accounts. They do not "kite" checks or In
other wajs keep a financial standing on a
false bottom. They are the safest kind of
depositors.
What the custom of women depositors
amounts to is Hint the bank Is nllowed the
use of a considerable sum of money with no
expense other than the maintenance of a
clerical force and a small force at that
Women generally have no notes to be dis
counted , drafts to be cashed , loans to be
made on collateral more or less valuable
or collections to be mnde. Two hundred
women depositors , having an average of no
more than $300 each to their credit , would
represent $00,000 , the use of which the bank
has ,
The women who make use ot the Chicago
banks are from all classes. The great num
ber of them , however , are the wives of
fairly well-to-do business men , who make
them an allowance for dress and expenses
A considerable number also are among those
who have a fixed Income from property or
other hourcp , which conies to them In their
own name. The per cent of business women
contrary to general opinion , Is a very small
one. The business woman probably has
ways enough by which the money goes out
as fast as It comes In.
ci.iiii rou iitcHKi.oii
A > c\v ClilciiKii Club Hint Cnii lie
l'i-i > IIiilil > Copied HN | > lii-rc.
A unique club for bachelor women has
Just been organized on the south sldin \
Chicago. The club has been founded by
Mrs. Allco Asbury Abbott , and Is the only
one of the kind In the city , although It
bears some resemblance to Miss Adams'
Jane club. It will be run on the co-opera1
live plan and will be self-governed. The
building Is a fine stone front In one of the
best neighborhoods In the city. It Is one
of three flat buildings adjoining each other
and owned by Mrs. Abbott. There are eight
flats of eight rooms each , four of which arc
now available for thp usca of the club , with
o probability that the others can be secured
ere long The plan of management Is this
Each young woman who becomes a club
member pays a minimum price ot $3.50 per
week. The club Is to bo her homo , nnd
this pays nil the expenses of her board nnd
lodging. This Is the price , provided two
women share ono room. For a single room
the price will be from $1 to $4.50 per week.
For each sult6 of eight rooms thcro Is a
largu double parlor fitted up handsomely.
Ilosldes this there Is a big plain room net
ijpart for sewing , darning , handkerchief
washing and the like. The bcdrooniH are
furnished In oak , with rugs and brass beds.
The building has team heat , gas , hot and
cold baths. There will bo n common dining
room , at least until the club Is more settled.
Ill a few days the club members are to have
n meeting for the election of officers ami
formation of club regulations. The chief
officer will bo a house mother , assisted by
a committee. It Is hoped to secure for this
position a woman who will volunteer to live
In the club , superintend Its workings and
haperon the bachelor girls , A cook nnd
janitor are already on the premises , nnd
other servants will soon bo arranged for.
Letters have been sent to < ho leading work-
ins women of the various clubs and they
nro taking up the question among them
selves. At present Mrs. Abbott Is assuming
tlio financial responsibility , as this has long
been a pet scheme of hers. Just what the
club will bo named has not been decided ,
but it Is probable that "Tho Altrul" will bo
nccypted. Ono feature. Is a large BEoembly
room , which can bo used for meetings ,
lectures , etc. It Is also the plan to allow
young ladies who wish to furnish their
rooms , wholly or In part , according to their
Individual tastes.
IHKVIM ; TJII : CUSTOM or .
Wciiiinii III < < iriutiri > - Illilt'M on
Toil "f < i > > OiiiulliiiH.
On my way from the Lelpzlgcr strassc to
the exhibition , nays a writer In the London
Telegraph , while Hitting on the top of a
trn.ni car , a young lady of some 17 summers ,
with a flue , Intelligent and unmistakably
Jewish face came on and sat herself lu-slde
me. The maiden blushed u maiden never
blushed before , and my curiosity was aroused
to Its highest point when I noticed every
person on the tar stare at her with a mnlle
of approbation. Nay , more , on the route
peoplu stopped and looked at her. Mt-n
raised their haU and wjnien raised their
handkerchiefs. Indeed , children looked
through the windows and kept their eyes
fixed on the top of my tram till they could
etc it no moro. What could all this mean'/
That the young Jewess at my ulde was the
woman of the hour , a person whom llerlln
was Idolizing , borne public benefactress to
whom the denizens of the capital were giv
ing evidence of their thorough appreciation
and heartfelt gratitude , wan patent to all
who had eyes to see. What , then , was her
heroic deed ? Why did every jierton on the
car say most cordially , "Ich gratullero
Ihnen , frauleln , " when the lady was about
to descend ?
The solution of the mystery was a *
singular as It was amusing. It had , by the
viperous laws and custom. ) of the Teutons ,
been denied , until the morning In question ,
Jo the fair sex to ascend the steps of an
omnibus or train car throughout the length
and breadth of Hcrmany. Some of the manly
women ot llerlln , gasping for franchise , ns
well as for fresh air In the summer months ,
declared that they had tolerated long enough
the cruelty of being pent up In a tram car
full of their own sex while the men were
above enjoying the delightful summer breeze
They sent deputations and petitioned the
powers that be to break once and forever a
law unworthy of enlightened Germany.
Some of the ncw paprrs volleyed nnd
thundered ngalnst such Innovnllons. "Oh.
for the degeneracy of Iho fatherland. " they
sighed. Hut at length tht- women hnd their
way ns women alwnys will nnd the great
privilege was reserved for nip to sit bosldP
the i joiing Jewess whoso name ought to
bo i handr-d down to posterity ns probably the
flrst ; female In Gernmiiy who was bold
enough to ascend the steps of a tram car.
Viitoi.
Violet In nil shades will bo n great color
favorite this winter.
TIs of tulle are seen on the bonnets In
tended for dressy matrons.
The small mutlnnlpg sleeves are very
closely filled with stitched bands at the
waists.
No gown Is strictly a la mode unless It
boasts some sort of unique neck decoration
Silk shirt waists , oxnct duplicates of the
summer variety , will be worn until the snow
( lies.
lies.The
The new velvets are wonders of beauty ,
some being thrown to the surface over rain-
how effects In satin.
There Is no doubt that chinchilla will boone
ono of the fashionable furs. U Is handsome.
It Is becoming , It Is expensive.
While gloves with black stitching are fltll !
In great favor for dressy day and evening
wear ; so are pale canary lints stitched In
black.
Handsome laltlce-pattcrned passementerie
bands are used on tailor gowns , with the ad
dition of small silk cord sequins or tailor
buttons.
Smooth-faced cloths nro conspicuous
among the autumn novelties , nnd brown ,
preen , nnd rich shades Tn blue seem to IIP
equally fashionable colors.
A soft fawn-colored Suede Is ncry
pretty glove , keeping clean n little longer
than white , nnd It Is loss trying to Un
hand that Is not perfect In shape and size
Changeable and fancy plalded and checked
velvets In Oriental color mlxtuies are In
great use with tailors and high-class mod
istes In the founatton of autumn and winter
costumes of ladles' cloth.
Graceful prlncesse dresses nro formed by
Iho effect of plclurcsque Trench louches.
nnd the natty little bolero and other short
coquettish Jackets appear upon gowns and
toilets of every po&slblo description.
Some natty costumes made of Indies' cloth
nnd designed for slender young women arc
T
Fancy colors In modern and antique styles
decorate new dressy gowns , and ilbbon ,
braid , buttons , gimps nnd pnssementerles
have their own peculiar destination and uses
for tailor costumes and dresses for visiting ,
reception , traveling and church wear.
. The soft satin foulards will probably lose
the popularity they gained during the spring
and summer , and their place be taken by the
crisp taffetas again. Some of the new
prlnled laffctas have a peculiar sheen Ihal
{
Is . neither a moire nor nn Iridescent effect ,
but something quite new nnd lovely.
Some of the new fur pelerines nro made
very short and full on the shoulders , Ihe fur
rufllc and standing collar being attached tea
a rounded yokn of deep moss green , golden
brown or dahlia-colored velvet. Other small
capes have still newer inlaid yokes of Jet ,
bronze or Persian bead , or silk arabesque
I'asscmenterle.
Veloutlne or velveteen Is now manufact
ured by some new process , and beautiful
shades are produced in green , gray , brown ,
plum color , Burgundy and black. It has a
soft , silky surface , and a fast dye web , nnd
the goods are warranted to look bettor after
two years' wear than a "linen back" velvet
will look after ono season.
A lovely garniture for a brldcsmade's dress
consists of a loose front of cream-white
moussclnlno do sole dotted with opals and
small Koman pearls , and framed with bre-
tellcs covered with this garniture , and end
ing In a flue fringe both back and front. On
end ) shoulder are short full ostrich tips held
by pearl buckles sel with French brilliants.
Among the stylish garments In various
Importing houses arc box coats with rounded
fronts and rovers finished with five or seven
rows ot machine stitching. The handsomest
of these aio formed of very light-colored
cloth lined with plalded taffeta silk in sofl
dainty colorings , quite unlike the brilliant
tartans that line some of the black and
darker coats.
Notwithstanding the great vogue for ele
gant bead and jewel passementeries , spangle
and sequlno garnitures , nnd ribbon and vel
vet decorations that will continue through
out this and the coming winter season , rich
nnd exquisite lace garnitures will retain
high place In the world of fashion , subject
only to new arrangements and effects.
Many novel nnd pretty effects nro em
ployed in decorating the tops of the new
sleeves that are as close-fitting from wrist
to far above the elbow ns they can com
fortably bo worn. Vandykes , caps , trimmed
and draped triangles of the dress goods ,
utraps , tnbs and epaulets are all used , nnd
much originality nnd skill Is evinced in
the arrangement ot various decorations for
various Individual forms.
Sage-gray cloth repped wool costumes nro
made with vests of fawn-colored drop d'oto
laid In tiny pleats edged with very flue gold
hi aid , with nanow panels of the drap d'eto
showing between slashed poitlons of the
skirt. These panels are crossed all the way
down the length of the skirt with rows of
gold braid set In clusters , about five Inches
of plain fawn-colored cloth showing between
each cluster.
English tailors make some of their gowns
with two pockets on the sides of the front
gore of the skirt , the openings covered with
machine-stitched tabs. An exjillcnt Idea ,
as It prevents one pocket being filled with
purse , handkerchief , keys , etc. , to the Jet'l-
ment of the hang of the diapery , and flic
eventual sagging of one side ot the skirt ,
and U will bo a great matter for a woman
for once In her llfo to flnd her drew pocket
without a uenoral search for It.
IVinlllllM.YoU'H. .
Mrs. Langtry has had her bicycle enam
eled in turquoise and fawn , which are also
the colors of her racing stablo.
Mrs. C , F , Fishback , wife of the owner of
the Seattle Times , Is said to bo the flist
white woman to visit Cariboo , Ihu wild
mining region at the head of the Fraser
river In British Columbia
Miss Clara Sturgls , the editor , business
manager and publisher of "Tom" Watson's a
People's Paper of Atlanta , ( la. , U described
as a pretty but not "new" woman. She la
opposed to woman suffrage.
Princess Catherine Yourlowskl , daughter
of Czar Alexander II of Russia by his mor
ganatic marriage with the Princess Pol-
gouroukl , wan recently engaged to Count
Boson do Talleyrand Pcrlgord , second eon
of the Prlnco do Sagan.
Mme. Modjcska lias 600 hives of Italian
bees on her California ranch , They collect
their store from the flowers of the exquisitely
scented white sago , which grows abundantly
In the mountain meadows of that state Mine.
Modjeska thinks these flowers nro produc
ing the finest honey In the wen Id , li
Lady Habberton sees In the knickerbockers
with which wo have become more or less
familiar through bicyclists an Ideal drcts
for maid servants Jn this costume flying
skirts are done away with and with them ,
In her opinion , a prolific cause of fire ,
knockcd-ovur china and bric-a-brac nnd dust
lugged In from the street on trailing cloth ,
Edinburgh Is the first Scottish university
to bestow the degree of M. A. on women
Htudents. Miss MacGregor and Miss Goddes
have Just been capped , Thus uro gathered
the flrfct fruits of tuo battle fought by Dr.
Sophia Joxi Blake moro than twenty-five In
years ago. Glasgow was the first Scotch uni
versity to graduate , students ot nieillclno.
A southern girl , this tlmo a daughter of
Alabama , has Just received a high collegiate
appointment , that of profnssor of natural
science * In the ) Georgia Industrial college at
Mllledgovllle. Miss Parker , the new professor
ser , was graduated only last Juno from the
University of Alabama , being the iecoud
graduate * ot thit Institution. Slie U
the daughter of a professor ot the university ,
\V. A , Parkor.
Mrs. Thomas ItaMy seems to be InValuabls
to her husband , quite outsldo of her house
keeping capacity. It Is his proud boast that
she keep * hprsplf no well posted In the liter
ature of the day that ho flnds hlmsolf con
stantly drawing from her fund of knowledge.
It was Mrs. Hardy who Induced her husband
to forsake architecture for llleraluro as a pro.
fcsslon , and It was she who copied out his
first novel nnd sent It to ) the publisher.
Mls Beatrice Jor.M , a young woman with
a fad for landscape gardening , wenl abroad
to study under European gardeners. Her'
friends thought she was carrying the thins
lee far , but she recently returned and nt
once spcurod contracts to beautify two largo
wild ostalps at Cromwell's harbor , She la
now supervising two big crpws of laborers ,
who are hewing down trees nnd plowing up
the ground.
The fnct thai Mmo. Paltl recently ordered
a Jcwelpd bodice Is sufficient for "tonics
les grnndes dames" who have ordered nt
least , , ono with each fall outfit. Ono Jurfl
prepared for n brldo of the early nulutim
will bo worn with pompadour silk , flowered
over a pale shrimp colored background , tin
tiny gnrlnnds being woven In opalescent
lints , and the costly Jewels Inserted ns If
the bodice was one elaborate piece of Jew
elry.
elry.Mrs
Mrs , Harriet Mnxwcll Converse of Now '
York Is known among the United Tribes ot
the Six Nations , whose reservation lies In
Now York and Canadn , ns the whlto chief
ot the Iroquols. The Indian name they gave
her means "Ono Who Watches , " for she has
won respect and love of Indians all over the
country , because of her dev'otlon to the lnk
terrsts ot thplr race. Her library , on sub
jects pertaining to the American Indian , Is
the largest In the world.
Eva Nnnscn Is of the same mould as the
hrnvo Norwegian explorer. If all Scandi
navia Is filled now with her husband's fame ,
the joungost daughter of Michael Sara , pro
fessor of zoology , was not less well known
and brlovcd through the length nnd breadth
of the land ns nn Inspiring concert singer
nnd a bold snow shoo runner before she wed
ded Nnnsen In 1SS9. Her father died In her
} flung girlhood. On her mother's sldo she
Is related to the poet , Wclhaven. Her broth
ers follow their father In the paths of
science.
Mrs. Plckett , the widow of General George
E. Plckett , who commanded the confedcrato
division al Gettysburg , and made the ever
memorable charge , Is now a departmental
employe nt Washington , nnd has made ar
rangements to bilng out a memoir of her
gallant husband's campaigns nnd military
career. When in the old United Stales army
before HIP war General , then Captain Plckotl ,
made a flint record ns an officer. Ito ! It vvna
who resolutely took possession of San Juan
Island , off the coast of AVashlngton , In 1859 ,
to prevent Its occupancy by British troops.
Miss Mary Bannister Wlllard , niece of Mlsa
Frances Wlllard , and a recent graduate of
the Postaloz7l kindergarten school at Berlin ,
Germany , has been chosen by Mrs. Cleve
land as the Whlto house klmlergartncr. She
will have chnrgo of the education of thu
president's daughters , beginning her duties
upon Ihelr return to Washington for the win-
tor. Miss Wlllnrd Is superintendent of kin
dergarten work In the national Women's
Christian Temperance union , nud will attend
the convention at St. Louts In November
in the Interest of her department. Shu Is
nt present living In Washington with her
sister. Mrs. Knthcrlno Wlllnrd Baldwin , "
whoso husband , William Woodward Baldwin ,
Is third assistant secretary of stale. . ,
Tim I.ITTl.i : OLD SHOD.
Cleveland leader ,
It Is only n tiny Mioo
That she touches with tender cnre
A cunning little bit of n thing
That n baby used to wear ;
And she ccntly raises It to her lips ,
And lovingly holds it there.
H Is worn , nnd faded , nnd old.
Hut It brings up the happy pant :
She sadly Highs n.s she thinks of the ioyt
That were too sweet to lust.
i.-
In fancy she sees a little child
AH it gambols upon the Iloor ;
An elf-like creature with golden hair
Is cooing a baby song once more ;
And a tour drons down on the tiny she
That the beautiful dream-child wore.
"Ah , well ! " she sighs to herself ,
"I'm cursed by the willful futes ;
"I used to bo able to wear thlH nhoc ,
13ut now I take number eights. "
Father Ignatius , who visited New Yorll
City some time ago and did all ho could
to have Hev. Dr. II. Hebcr Newton put on
trial for heresy , is now leading a movement
to have nev. Dr. Frcemantlo , dean of Hipon ,
England , tried for heresy on the ground
that ho has made the following statement :
"Little stress will bo laid on the accounts
of the infancy of Christ , slneo they are men
tioned nowhere In the New Testament out- _
sldo the first chapters of the first and third
Gospel. " Bishop W. IJoyd Carpenter of
Rlpon , however , has so far refused to taka
any steps In the matter.
Hair Medicine
When the hair begins to Tall out nnd lose It *
luktre und beauty by turning gray or faded , what
more evidence is nucdid to prova that Its health
In nn cttedaud that it needs medicine ? No
more , I nssurc you , for there is n cause for every
symptom thatthelialr gives of ttirnlntr gray or
losing Hi beauty In any form. J'or ns the hair li
part of the human body , It Is subject to ailment
an well a any other part , and therefore should
be treated intelllgeully. Hut contrary to thli
common-sense logic , rio greater Insult or worse
abuse could be henprd upon this dtfcmclcsj
membcrofaiirperkou than the use of lialr.ilye.
To color the pour sick hair with hair dye , ami
thereby drown Its feeble cry far tiourlihmcnt , la
ID Itself a Mn and a crime ngalrut nature , filming
on ignorant humanity that will not yield to tho" "
lav k of nature und study the ueeds of their owu
body.
body.Mme. . M. Yale's
Hair Tonic
a medicine for curing kick hair. It It tlif oulf
remedy on record knout ! tu rotore the natural
color to grey hair , It uourMiei the roots ntnl
dives circulation to the oil duetiprrmruliui ; it
with nature' * own colorluK mutter that iloui
through the channel ! of Hie hair when It It hi au
healthful tlate aa faithfully as the warm Mood
does through oursclnB.
nine. Yale' * HalrTonlc I * the result of a care ,
ful analysis of the huiuuu tulr by Mme , Vale ,
that noiiderful woman chemist and ucicnlUt ,
who guarantees Yale's HnlrToiilc tocontaiu pre >
cisdy the natural couttilueiiuof the lulr'n owu
matter prepared in a chemical form. It tlopi
tlie lulr falling In from twenty-four hour * toouo
week Cures Dandruff ; koftetu dry , har h hair !
makes the lulr soft , nloswy and fluffy ; keep * it
curl , and cures all manner of calp < li ease *
ai.dliair ailmentsproducing growth ot luxurf.
aut hair of Its own rich , natural color , no muttef
ulint that may lie black , blonde or bru n.
I'or children and ndulu-malcs or fcuialci ,
$1,00 per buttle ; Biz fur fj.oo ,
JlMU. M. VALK , Ilomitnd Conv'.tiloa BlHi
leavlo ut lltuut ; . Hi * t t BUvet , ( Uiiugo ,