1 1
lit
III )
\ * *
lar
lor
ror
I ) .
S
d
111-
It ,
1m
to
bur-
pee-
A.
A.Ita.
Ita.
1WJ
ling
and
KS !
ork.
'ork. '
JIM.
JIM.Bo. .
turn ,
uict
UT
Jim.
1
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
I'ASIIIOXS KOIl TI1U IM
) ) clnlte PtjlPN Aiininiiicrtl for Ilio
( ItlcnlliK NPH IIII.
NEW YORK , Sept. 10 , 1S)6. ! ) The World
may stop wondering now , for at last Mrs.
Fashion has consented ( o apeak about
autumn nnd winter modes. The gist of lier
talk , however , contaiis skirts and sleeve *
( after all , tlio two vital points of dress ) , both
rJit which kfn to prow beautifully smaller
" "and narrower until this reaction against
width has been satisfied.
Already , Indeed , tlio circumference of the
smarter ! skirts Is reduced by more than halt
of w.hnt It was In the spring , while n skirt
J-nl-.b godcts all round Is , to modish opinion ,
" "aifnost as old-fashioned as ovcrsklrt nnd
The lower portion ot the new skirts still
TRAVELING COSTUME.
bavo a decided flare , but at the hips they fit
with skin snugness , too snugly In fact for
any but symmetrically proportioned figures.
A now skirt that threatens to become popu-
< t _ lar haa been designed by an English tailor
.Jrof world renown. This exactly reverses thb
alate order of things In having a gored front
and circular back. The apron Is cut ex
tremely narrow , so that at tlio top tlio seams ,
with thosu of the two sldo gores , arc at the
front of the hips. The circular back Is
stiffened only a quarter of a yard deep at tlio
bottom and falls In six heavy Inturnlng
kilt plaits , pressed down to Ho flat from belt
to hem.
A novel effect , where the gown material
Is of cloth , Is to hnvo the seams of the apron
nnd sldo gores heavily stitched and lapping
IVJ
WALKING GOWN,1
over. With this a deep hem will bo simu
lated with Ilvo or more rows of tlio stitching.
A STUDY IN SLEBVES.
A. corsage Anglais , a long-walstcd Eng
lish-looking bodice , with a narrow waist
coat and small busques. Is tlio proper upper
caper for this shirt , but many of tlio bodices
liavo tlio short , loose sacquu and wldo girdle
tffewts of the French designers.
Sleeves are growing steadily longer and
p closer at tlio forearm portion , with only
a. slight drapery or small puff at the top
to give breadth to tlio shoulders.
The cocky slecvo of the moment clings
rnOMBNADH COSTUME OP BJEQI3
CLOTH.
( o ( bo arm like a glove , but It Is a glove
that admlto of much tucking , putting ,
elilrrlng and wrinkling as far as the sleeve
proper la concerned , The long wrist Is
pointed or boll-shaped , and comet as low
AS the knuckles , and where tlio sleeve le
touch decorated smart Idea U ( o bavo the
drapery at the top rewed only In the arm
hole tn ns to show ns much ot It as possible.
For thin , ungainly arms , these new sleeves ,
show Ing nil aorta of crosswise trimming
effects , are Just the thing , but more shapely
members will , more often than not , be hurt
by them. For a heavy arm the under sleeve
should be plain or trimmed lengthwise , and
the drapery at the top voluminous enough
to Increase the look of sllghtncss. With
the very dressy gowns , even those In heavy
textiles , where the close under-slccve Is
much decorated , It Is made of a thinner ma
terial than the gown stuff. Thus a velvet
bodlco with a waistcoat and cravat ot yel
low Ince , will have the close sleeves also
of' the lace , divided In tiny puffs with rows
ot narrow velvet.
For theater and reception bodies , a more
airy textile even than lace Is admissible for
the snug sleeve. Those for even midwinter
wear , dressmakers state , will often bo of
n ball-like delicacy , silk muslin , chiffon nnd
gauzes of all sorts combining with heavy
silks nnd velvets.
BELTS AND GIRDLES.
The wide corselet belt , nlrcndy much dis
cussed , Is n marked feature of the new sea
son's modes. Scarcely an Imported frock Is
tn be seen without a wide girdle of some
sort , and at the dressmaking establishments
they have become epidemic. The shops have
also caught the deep belt disease. Every
where counters are strewn with wide clautle
affairs for simple house use , In black , white
nnd colors nnd many of them as deep ail r
short corset.
When made of leather belts are gored to
the figurp and fasten with five or more sirups
through tiny leather buckles. All are ex
tremely useful for the trim adjustment of
the loose silk blouses , which will continue
to be worn , but the moment seems Imminent
when the deep girdle will meet the usual
fate of a novelty run In the ground.
SKIRTS AND SACKS.
Trimmed skirts are seen In numbers , and
In the way of wrnps for winter use , cloaks
nnd Jackets of all sorts threaten to depose
the more convenltnt short cape. For first
autumn wear , however , the shops am showIng -
Ing dressy collets In many varieties of no-
sign and material , that , with thcli hUh
thront ruches and floating ribbons , EinarUn
up n plain gown delightfully. The Jacktts
are In the colored coatings and are either
very loose or close fitting , very short or
quite long.
The French models on the sncquu order
como only a little below the waist nnd are
usually double-breasted at the front atid
platted Into n yoke at the back. Slcevos
of these are very small glgots , ns light .is
comfort will allow at the lower port'on a.id
box platted Into the armhole.
A novel sacque jacket shown by one of
Now York's most recherche tailors , had
loose cape sleeves which hung down longer
than the rest of the garment with a mantle
effect. This was made of pale fawn-colored
cloth , with the edges heavily stitched and
a lining of old yellow brocade. The model
Is hero Illustrated , the back having the
same short look of the front.
A close fitting jacket of dark green faille ,
exquisitely embroidered In white and black ,
was also made with an eye toward mercy
for the gown sleeves. Sleeves of this were
llkwlso capo affairs , but cut circular and
falling short of the Jacket tall. Windmill
bows on the shoulders , nnd braces which
slipped through square Jet buckles and fell
each sldo of the front In graceful ends , were
made of a heavy white ribbon edged with
black velvet. Inside of the neck band there
was a scant ruche of the same turning back
In collar points at the front.
Then Just at the bust as If It were part
of a gown underneath , escaped a soft Jabot
of deep yellow' lace , the two long ends of
which turned over carelessly on the bottoms
of the Jacket fronts. A drawing of this
smart "dolman" for the
funny old-fash
ioned name was actually tacked on this won
derful creation Is likewise here pictured.
ELEGANT RIBBONS.
Apropos of the velvet-edged ribbons , n
word. They nre on the smooth tnffetn order ,
black velvet a quarter of an inch wide bor
dering them. They are shown In white and
many colors , the most dashing of the tints
being a strange luminous pink with a silver
sheen , that It both dim nnd deep , and like
nothing else under the sun. In great
bristling ruchlngs , with atendant quills and
marabout and paradise aigrettes , these ribbons
bens will bo one of the novelties In the new
season's millinery.
A made and adorable hat just seen had
a vast quilling In the curious pink de
scribed. The model was a French walking
shape , square-crowned , broad and flat with
a small rolling brim. At the left front , In
,1 nest of quilling , which circled the crown ,
huddled a wonderful bird , the wonder-
fullest ever seen. Ho looked something
llko a gray dove with white feathers in his
wings , but underneath the gray wings there
were black ones llko shadows , nnd ho had r
slender duck's mouth , painted scarlet , and
a black paradise tall , Altogether ho wn&
a remarkable bird , but ho must have been
of an expensive breed , as the hat he
roosted on was marked $35.
The most novel of the new hats yet
shown nro small und distinctly flat-crowned.
A nnuveaute In felt Is covered with long
downy black hair , thick enough to be
combed and which straggles over a white
or colored surface. Black headgear , however -
over , is declared by milliners to be the very
smartest of nil ; the same hat , long worn
nnd clung to In spite of everything by the
chic Parlslenne , with a brim to shade the
face and heaps of black velvet and curling
feathers to make it becoming. This , If
one may believe the oracle , will positively
come later. Small , closely fitting capotes
of folded velvet with scarf ends of rich
lace nt front or sldo , are shown by seine
of the milliners and are advised as useful
headgear for fresh , round faces ,
The paradise aigrettes continue to bo seen
on the largo hats and In conjunction with
ostrich feathers and big velvet bows , the
trimming put on with the same wldo ef
fects.
Among the new gown materials there
are certain mottled and plaid wools for
street use that are very effective. Then *
have a camel's hair softness and often the
same hairy surface , rich copper browns
and somber reds predominating over other
colors. "Tinder color" is a now shade of
brown that has a hint of snuff In Its red
ness.
ness.With
With nil ot the wool street stuffs blacker
or colored velvet will bo used as trim
ming , as well as black mohair braids of all
description. NINA FITCH.
XovrltlrN In Kyi" fJliiHxpM rvltli Dt'dilpil
French TliitN ,
Only the woman who Is hopelessly , Irro
clalmably behind the times ever uses a lorg-
non , Along with the tomahawk and the
waterfall , the lorgnon has now become a
thing of the barbaric past.
Now , of course , there were lots of women
who truly were nearsighted , who honestly
depended on their lorgnons for a true view
of things and who will deeply resent being
deprived of them. For these and for all the
rest of the feminine world , who must have
a glass to see through , there has just come
to town the new French monocle and plnce
nez.
nez.For
For the near-sighted or weak of eye they
are a great blessing and to any pretty face
are excessively becoming. The eye glass Is
Just as strong or Jutt as weak as your eyes
require , and the two crystal lenses are set
to a nose clasp of gold. No rim runs
around the lenses themselves , which are cut
either oval or square , while at the outside
edge of the right hand lens a delicate gold
handle Is fixed.
This is meant to hold the glasses by , to
set them off or on the nose with and from
this handle hangs a narrow , soft , black silk
ribbon. U passes about one's neck , has
strung on It three jeweled ring guards and
Is long enough to let the glasses bang a lit
tle below the waist line. Uy the merest
wrinkling of the nose these plnce nez are
twitched off , just at cully let on , and their
wearers only keep them In place a very few
moments at a time , for the glasses have the
strongest magnifying power , In order to
make the eyes behind them appear almost
abnormally large and the lashcu excessively
long.
Occasionally , In place of passing the ribbon
about one's neck , It Is caught by a Jeweled
pin on the right shoulder , Usually fastened
In with the pendant pin of one's watch ,
and , by way of guards , three big pearls or a
huge turquoise bead between two pierced
cabochon emeralds , arc strung on the rib
bon. The samewomen who run to this
extravagance have the gold nose bridge of
their glasses outlined with tiny diamonds ,
llko the ojcglass of the 1'rlncess of Wales ,
who Is supposed to be responsible for this
fashion.
In splto of her reputation as the most
girlish-looking grandmother In Europe , the
princess Is feeling her age , and In the last
six months has succumbed to the use of
eyeglasses , though she never keeps them tn
place longer than five minutes at a time ,
for fear of scarring the bridge of her royal
nose wl'.h the tight clasps.
Ilcsldo the plnco nez , with Jeweled guards
and ribbons , the Jewelers are offering for
sale exquisite little chatelalnu cases of vel
vet and leather , all besprinkled with gems ,
and meant to be pinned on one's shoulder ,
or hooked on at one's belt. Inside thcso
cases are eyeglasses , so artlully ground ,
Her food la the best In the country nnd Is
I Prepared for her She U cfifrjfd about by
, her friends and Is not allowcd-to touch her
feet to the protifiJ. She Is dressed In all
her flqerjr , with rings ort he' arms up to
her elbows and heavy rllftfs about her
ankles. Her face la painted' ' with red and
white chalk , and her whole body shines llko
n' mirror from the generous application of
palm oil. She amuses herself by rubbing
the rings together and tlvrf gfatlng noise
seems not to affect her nerves. In the least.
At night there are dances Co'draw ' a crowd.
This exhibition may be Hfpl' ' up for six
months or even longer , acc&rdlng to the
wealth of the family. At laslia big dance
Is given and the brhltvcledt with 1
bridesmaids goes the rounds-of nil her
friends , dancing before them and receiving
"The preliminaries finished , the price
will be settled upon. Two huHdred yards of
calico , six gallons of rum , ' one gun and a
few small articles , such ad Vnlvcs , mir
rors , spoons , beads , forks , plates , cups ( one
of each ) are sufilclcnt to buy the nicest
kind of n wife. The bridegroom pays the
rum , forty yards of cloth and some of the
smaller things , and then the girt can go
with him to his homo. If he cares for her
ho soon pays the balance , but If they can
not get along It ends In n divorce. The
man sends his wife back and the family
return the purchase money.
"Hut supposing they do get along as Is
generally the case , the young woman's life
Is one round of duty. She waits on her lord
and master , tills the ground , raises the food
for him and his slaves , does the cooking
and keeps her house tidy. Africans are nat
urally lazy , but the women do moro wolk
than the men. The spare tlmo of the women
Is taken up by braiding mats for sleeping.
The nicest one nlwajs falls to the share ( if
the husband.
"It Is no wonder that the married women
urge their husbands to marry more wives
nnd as many as possible. It Is to her ad
vantage , for the work will thus be divided.
Once I observed that a married man had four
DEMI SEASON WRAPS.
polished , set and colored that a pair of the
least attractive eyes , looking through them ,
takes ou a most limped , childlike expression.
Every one of these glasses shows a vague
opalescent tint of azure , which gives to the
whites of the eyes an adorable tinge of
blue , like thnt noticeable In children. Then ,
by skillful grinding , the Iris , nd pupil are
not only magnified , but given the brilliant ,
jewel like convex form that Is only seen
In early youth nnd In the bcantllul eyes
of genius. Some of these costly glasses ,
which are all Parisian Imported , are set
in delicate rims of turquoise blue enamel.
They have neither handle nor guard , but
are meant , when not In use , to bo slipped
in their very elegant cases.
A year ago many misses and matrons
who dearly love to exploit a novelty wore ,
by long gold chains , single reading glasses ,
but they promptly were vulgarized , as the
heart locket has been , and now the girl
of the moment uses a monocle. She screws
it right Into her unoffending eye socket , or
lets it dangle from a silk ribbon rauud her
neck.
neck.Her
Her ribbon Is always black , and where
It Is strung through the circle of glass Is
fastened by ono bright diamond. But the
monocle Is not worn for Its sweet self alone ,
nor In the least as an aid to vision. Nearly
all of them ait ) very slightly colorid , In
order to lend that effect so many women
crave , of possessing one brown and
ono blue eye. Latter dny seers
announce that the girl endowed with
mismatched eyes Is fated to retain her
beauty long after other debutantes have
faded with fat matronhood and that
their lives are destined to be full ol ro-
mantle masculine admiration , so with Vhe.-ic
noble alms In view Is not the uncomfortable -
able monocle worth wearing ?
MAltUIAGAHMi clni7s K.VHIIIITIMJ.
In the Kri-noh COIIK < Tlu-y Hit for
MonlliH on ii rlntfiirni.
Some years ago the New York Sun told
the story of Miss Martha Kali , a missionary
who was exceptional In this respect that she
wan living all alone In Africa among the na
tives , and especially of the children whom
she had gathered around her. For a long
tlmo she was the only missionary at her sta
tion , which was near the west coast , not far
from the Congo river. At a later day she
married a missionary , Mr. Nehmo , and , after
nine years' Incessant work at Mnmby , in tlio
French Congo , she and her husband have
now come IIOJBO to Nebraska for the benefit
of their health. They expect to return to
Africa before very long. Mrs. Nehmo , who
thoroughly knows the African women In
the region where she has lived so long , nan
wrlten for the Sun the following account of
the Ufa of the women and the way husbands
are procured for them ;
"In the Frencli Congo the advent of a girl
baby Is hailed with joy. Already the heads
of the family consider the possible addition
to their treasury when this baby arrives at a
suitable age to bo married. The care of the
little girl falls to its mother and aunts , and
the Infant life Is free from care until the lit
tle girl Is 7 or 8 years of age. Then the poor
little thing Is made a beast of burden , always
carrying as heavy load as possible , helping
with planting and harvesting , and assisting
with the cooking. Her clothing consists of
a strip of cloth tied around the waist with a
string. This strip Increases in size as the
girl grows older , but Is worn only down to
the knees until she gets married. Sometimes
the cloth is plain , not even sowed , but of-
tuner It 13 trimmed with home-made fringe
and borders of different colors , red , ycljow ,
green and blue being preferred.
"In some cases the relatives promise the
girl in infancy to some old man who has a
dozen wives already , but oftener the girl
has her freedom until 12 to 14 years old.
At this tlmo her people cast about for a
bridegroom , and to attract the young men
of the neighborhood , or old men either ,
they put the girl on exhibition. It is lota
of fun for the girl and the nicest time of
her life.
"A platform Is erected at one end of anew
now hut and the girl reclines upon It. Four
to eight other young girls are called to at
tend to her every wish and to Invite men
of the neighboring towns. Tills la done
by means of a piece of red chalk. The
girls visit the towns and if they see a
suitable man they approach htm and put
a red mark upon him. This puts him under
obligation to visit the young would-be
bride that evening. If the man falls to
appear the girls who Invited him visit him
again and he must give a small present for
the bride , A hunter , a fisherman and a ,
jackwaau are at the dlapoaal ot the bride. I ;
different dinners sent him by bis four wlvcn.
There was enough for at'leftst'slx ' men. In
duty bound ho ate a little ot each to satisfy
all , because the bearers would tell If he
should slight any one. ' These women get
along nicely. Their lot in life Is drilled Into
them from childhood , and they are satisfied
with It. Their life Is passed In joy and sorrow
row Just like other people's. Should they be-
rome mothers they are held in esteem ey all
the people.
"The greatest trial of life comes to them
should they be left widows. If their hus
band | dies , their time of mourning Is arranged
by , the next heir , his brdther or nephew. The
length of time depends upon the Influence
and position of the dead man's family. The
wives stay tn the same hut with the body
until , tlio tlmo for the burial. Wailing is kept
up , day and night. After the funeral a box
Is fixed up In one end of this hut to repre
sent the cofiln. The wives stay In this place
day and night and weep and wall according
to their orders. Generally they wall every
other day. Sometimes friends will como and
help them weep. The dress of the mourners
Is a strip of plain dark blue calico , also a
strip oC the same tied around their fore
heads. They depe'trl on their friends for
food , anil dare not cat from a plato all this
time , , nor wash themselves. The poor creat
ures have to sit there for n year longer. I
I have known six of these j.oor women tor
tured longer than this. They are released
when the monument Is put upon , the grave ,
and ; a big dance is given. Then they are
free : to return to their families or begin mar
ried , llfo over again. Generally they choose
the latter. It is easier for them , because -
cause , as long as their husbands
lived ; , no one will touch them , but when
they live alone and grow old often their
own i children will end their lives by poison
This Is very cruel , but the people In that
part of Africa do not exert themselves for
any ' one , not even for their mothers. Poor
old women , when too old to be remarried ,
are ' soon put out of the way and their sad
lives are ended.
UUUI2U tlUAI.vF IIO.YUS.
tiiinif Hurt- mill CiiNtJjCiillcotloiiK
Miulc liy Itlt'li Ainrrlrnii Wtxiirn.
A charming fad Is that of collecting
patch and snuff boxes. Pretty silver or
gold or Ilattersea enamel treasures ; they
fit so easily In any empty nook or corner.
If one has a vast number 103 , for Instance
one then places the collection together In a
Louis XVI cabinet ; or upon a Vernls Mar
tin glass-covered table perchance.
Miss Louise Garland Is the fortunate and
happy owner of 100 and odd , Miss Gar
land's engagement , by the way , has Just
been announced to Mr. Emmett and doubt
less many of her wedding presents will take
this form that her collection may be still
lareer.
Mrs. Brayton Ives has , several gold and
enamel snuff boxes of j the time of Louis
XVI. One has parchracnf , panels , painted
with dainty , little landscapes. She also
has a pretty Battersea enamel patch box.
Mrs. Cornelius Van erbllt confesses a
penchant for these Ilitle old-fashioned
trifles. The snuff boxes jn her collection
are of the Louis XIV , X.Vand ' XVI periods ;
one Is gold and olive grWf , enamel , with a
miniature painting on porcelain , cupid stand
ing upon a pedestal , is placing a crown
upon the brow of a pretty girl , A blue
enamel landscape of ruins' Is represented
upon a Louis XVI gold snuff box ; one of the
tlmo of Louis XIV has enameled pansles
upon gold , with a portrait of Antolne Vltre ,
who was publisher and printer to Louis
XIV.
XIV.Most
Most curious Is the snuff' ' box owned by
Mr. Edward Berwlnd , ' It Is composed of
107 different stones , found near Dresden ;
the top U a bit of porcelain upon which
Is pictured the royal factory at Dresden ,
Another one In the same collection Is
of Vernls Martin and mother-of-pearl ; gtlll
another Is engraved rock crystal ,
Mrs. Broader Matthews' fancy likewise
runs to snuff boxes ; ono pretty example
In her collection Is of gold and pearl gray
enamel ,
Mrs. J. Plerpont Morgan has pretty Dres
den porcelain and silver-gilt patch and
snuff boxes.
Most interesting of all Is ono In Mr.
Charles Baldwin's collection ; U Is a gold
repousse and engraved snuff box , let with
six largo diamonds. In the center , sur
rounded by diamonds , Is a miniature of the
late czar of Russia , Alexander III , It was
presented to the owner's father , Admiral
by the czar on bis coronation ,
Another one , gold , ttuddcd with diamonds ,
was presented to Admiral Baldwin by the
sultan of Turkey
Mies Sftlllo Hewitt also haa an affection
for odd little boxes. Her collection In
cludes many specimens of Ilusslan and
Dutch work ; ahe has nlso some early
American examples that Is , early XIX
century , when our grandmothers nnd great-
grandmothers Included snuff boxes among
necessary belongings. One "caily Ameri
can" Is of Ivory , with n miniature paint
ing. A Dutch snuff box Is Inlaid with sil
ver and mother-of-pearl ! still another , a
Louis XVI of sold with a marine view-
in Vernls Martin. A miniature of the
duchess of Portsmouth embellishes the lid
of another , which Is silver gilt with niello
work. Patch boxes also are Included In
this collection ono of the tlmo of George
III Is oval , tortoise shell Inlaid with gold.
SIIOK IIOX AVIMHMV SUAT.
A C tivriiliMit > flu-nil mill OrtiiimuiUnl
I'loMof Kuril I turt * >
Ono of the most useful articles of furni
ture for n bed room or dressing room Is a
shoo box , wherein to keep shoes , rubbers
and slippers ,
It is very annoying to have shoes In the
bottom of n closet , where they may bo
kicked about and mlxid up , so that to find
mates Is sometimes a troublesome task. It
they were placed In a box they could al
ways bo found Just as they wcro left , side
by side , ready for Install ! use.
If you have not a good box already , the
Illustration and figure here , shown , with the
accompanying description , will enable anyone
ono to make a very convenient and attract
ive piece of furniture , which can also bo
used as a window seat. It Is constructed of
very simple materials , such as will readily
bo found about the house.
The framework of the box may be formed
of three ordinary boxes , such as groceries
and canned goods arc packed In ,
Figure 1 shows the arrangement of the
three boxes. The end ones should have the
lids removed , and shcUes should be nailed
In the middle. The center box must be
somewhat lower than the others. They are
all to bo nailed or screwed together In a
secure manner , and across the back a board
having a curved top Is to bo made fast ;
this well servo as a back to the seat formed
by the middle box.
A shoo box to bo kept In a closet may bo
made of any size to fit the space , but for
one that Is to stand out In the room and un
der a window It Is necessary to adjust the
proportion to suit the slzo of the window.
The end boxes may bo from eighteen to
twenty Inches In height , while the middle
ono should not exceed twelve to fifteen
Inches.
The lid of the middle box can bo fitted
with hinges , so It may be raised up and
this box will bo found a good receptacle for
rubbers nnd arctics. Tu the under side of
this lid n set of pockets made of denim may
be tcckcd fast , In which dust cloths may bo
kept.
WOM12X WHO MAIHJr.X 3IUX.
Do ft Iniiiicc'iitly. Iti-ruiiNf They Ho
Xot Know HIMV to Hi' WIvi'M.
Women may be charming , wholly de
voted to their homes and their husbands ,
and yet bo so tactless , thoughtless and ag
gravating as to drive husbands to the ex
treme of misery , says London Woman. Any
observant bachelor could recall numbers of
Instances of women who , from mere want
of tact and Intelligence , arc almost driving
their husbands nfad by getting on their
nerves. They forget that busy men require
absolute brain rc-st , change of scene , change
of subject. They forget that however wor
rying the little affairs of a household maybe
bo the anxieties of a great business upon
which the whole family's present future
depends nro far greater. A friend of mine ,
who la now nearly a millionaire , told me In
confidence that while he was sitting one
night over his smoking room fire , wonderIng -
Ing whether ho could next day possibly
survive a terrible crisis which was hang-
ins over his head and might lead to a dis
astrous bankruptcy , with debts to the ex
tent of 200,000 or BO , his wife catne whin
ing Into the room to say the butcher must
be paid the next day and the amount of the
butcher's bill was under CO !
It Is on such occasions that a man wants
a helpful wife ono who will tell him about
or read aloud the last good novel , who will
say , "Come , let us go to the theater to
night ; you need change of scene , " and ,
above all , one who knows Just when her
husband requires nothing more than to be
left alone. It is women who get on their
husband's nerves that drive them to take
bachelor holidays when fhoy ought to begetting
getting moro enjoyment from the wife's
companionship.
Of course , there are men who are always
out of sorts , spoilt , dyspeptic bears wit !
sere heads , who require strong minds to
manage them , but there are very many
others who only want judicious , sympa
thetic treatment to be the best husbands in
the world , Avoid being silly , avoid saying
silly things or trying to make conversation ,
or commenting on some remark your hus
band has made. Read and think In order
to cultivate Intelligence and resourceful
ness , with the object In view of being his
counselor and his friend , and , above all ,
"chum" that word means much.
I'llHlllllll .VolfK.
Sacquo coats are to bo the dressy wraps
for the fall. They are made of velvet or
rich peau dc sole.
No panels have appeared as yet , but some
of Iho sash arrangements give a panel effect ,
und the dressmakers hint that there may bo
velvet panels on winter gowns.
Covert coatings and fine-faced cloths , un
less for dress occasions , are used mostly In
the fall wraps. They como In many shades
of tan and dark shades of green and blue.
Paradise wings and drooping plumes hold
their own. They have as distinct n place ns
ostrich tips. In white und green and black
they will fill out the trimming of toques.
The hardy Scotch tweeds will have a fa
vored place among the season's popular tex
tiles. The materials will bo much used for
cycling , tennis , and traveling costumes.
A striking combination of feathers and
fur is seen In a mink bua formed Into a hat
worn In al russo well down over the head
and surmounted by largo while curling par
adise plumes.
Very hatidsomo dress buttons are brought
out matching expensive belt buckles. These
buttons , laid over n plain band of velvet rib
bon , decorate the corsage without any addi
tional trimming.
The early fall hats have rather a severe as
pect when compared with the fluffy , bcflow-
ered huts of summer , but there Is a very
styll h ulr about them and they glvo the
wearer a very , dlstlngulshcd appearance.
Stylish and serviceable costumes of mo
hair , alpaca , and silky canvas-patterned
wool , appear In weaves less coarse tliaii
tlioso popular last spring , although tliesu
heavier fabrics are still In great vogue
abroad.
The newest basque bodices are still short
and very dressy In effect , with rounded
fronts and jaunty pleated or postilion
backs , the lower edges tabbed , Vandykcd ,
slashed , or cut In flat circular shape , to
suit various tastes and figures ,
The seasons' now faced cloths are ex
ceedingly line in texture , light in weight ,
and come In handsome shades In green ,
blue , russet , dahlia , opal gray , fawn , browns
Innumerable , and in ono or two beautiful
dyes in street heliotrope.
Bonnets for elaborate occasions are airy ,
Indeed , being made almost entirely of gath
ered tulle or loco and jet , and trimmed
with dark velvet , sprays of flowers , oj-
feathers. Some of these tiny affairs have
a full osprey perched upright at the back.
At a wedding reception recently It was
noticed that some of the smartest gowna
worn were cut In prlncesse form , This
graceful robe is again much favored-
Given a rounded , graceful form , scarcely
any fashion Is more becoming ; badly made ,
on a poor figure , the effect Is burlesque.
A narrow black satin quilling is being
Introduced at the neck and sleeves of vis
iting gowns. There Is no necessity to re.
peat the adornments elsewhere on the
gown , as It Is merely Intended to take the
place of the quillings of moussellne and
chiffon , which have prevailed to so marked
an extent during the past six months.
Vandykes In both largo and small points ,
bands of black lace Insertion , plain or jetted ,
slight Marie Antoinette draperies , velvet rib
bon , both wide and narrow , festooned lace
flounces , or those of accordion-pleated moua-
aelluo de sole , tiny ruches , trijilu frills , and
milliner * ' folds alt appear on nw Frnc'i
dress tklrta for < ho fall and winter
One of the most useful and faxhlotiAhlc
piumenls for the fall la a toig root or
ulster. One made of ! aii cheviot baa looo
fronts which tnfkc It oa y to draw on. It
haa a belt of leather which holds the fclda
In plnce1 , nnd la fattened with met Al but *
toni. Velvet forms the collar and cuffs ,
with Iho edge of the cloth showing about
the edge. The collar may be turned up or
down ,
A pretty fancy In evening halrdresslng Is
the Spanish colffuro with the tresses celled
high at the back of the hcAd , and In ami
out of the Spanish comb Is twisted a
spray of some fine flower , like forget-me-not ,
scarlet cypress , white or pink star blos om ,
etc. , or tUc a single billlUnt. lult-hlown
damask or tea rose and Its folin < ; o Is
fastened In the arching point of the comb.
The new sovcn-gored skirt differs from the
last season's shapes In being much less flar
ing on the fronts and sides. The fulness
flowing toward the back Is shaped by gores
set "straight to bias , " with a bias ecani
down the back. The skirt measures about
five yards around the lower part , and requires
j'nrds of doubli'-
quires four and ono-Juilf -
wldth material. It ( Us the hips snugly nnd
can bo made to fall loose- from the lining
or be scnnipil on with each separate gore.
A charming model for un evening toilet Is
If c.innry-colored silk bntlsto over a pink nnA
yellow chameleon taffeta silk underskirt and
bodice. On the front Is a bolrro Jacket of
point dc Venlse lace , with a crush collar nnd
girdle of pale-yellow satin held by buttons
of pink pearls Intermixed with tiny French
brilliants. Between the fronts of the lace
bolero shows n full blouse of the shot satin ,
veiled with pnlo-yellow tulle and banded
with pink-pearl passementerie.
The lovely tea-rose tints on pink nnd yel
low will bo highly favored for hnndsomo
evening toilets for autumn nnd winter , both
In heavy silks , brocades nnd satins , and In
the beautiful diaphanous textiles. The
lighter , daintier dyes will be first choice , but
the deeper colors In buttercup , Jonquil ,
malzo and even orange will be en evidence
In the yellow tones , and jncqtio and damask
rose shades , geranium and carnation will
rival the softer cameo , canary , honeysuckle
nnd lemon tints In yellow.
While and black combinations In mllllnrrv
for dressy wear will be very prevalent this
autumn ; black and white laces , aigrettes ,
ostrich tips , black velvet ribbon overlaid
with white lace insertion , black and white
satin-striped ribbon , black velvet'lonps lined
with white satin , nnd tiny evening toques of
soft velvety white French felt garnished
with white and black tulle , doves' wings ,
white birds with black wing-tips and breast
plumage , white sntlu bows and white velvet
popples with black hearts.
I'VlnllillH1 .NolcM.
Queen Victoria was greatly distressed In
her Journey the other day to Balmoral that
the engine of the royal train struck and
killed a signal man on the line. Her ma
jesty will provide handsomely for the man's
family.
Miss Lorraine Lawrence of New York
City has been awarded first prize nt the
Lelpslc conservatory for the highest at
tainments. The honor was conferred by
the board of directors and Miss Lawrence
will take n postgraduate course.
Miss Clara Barton , president of the
American Red Cross society , decided nt
the last moment not to sail for the United
States an board the steamship Servla. This
change in her plans Is duo to the character
of the newu" received from Turkey.
Plucky Mrs. Louise Caton of Lansing ,
Mich. ; Is an accomplished and independent
traveler. Sbe has just started for Moscow ,
taking with her a lot of nine valuable
trotting horses belonging to her husband ,
a well known driver who Is now In Russia.
During the trip across the United States
she had a sleeping apartment hi the stock
car.
Sister Mary Baptist , mother superior of
the order of Sisters of Mercy In California ,
Is the sister of Baron Russell , lord chief
justice of England. Mother Russell 1st CR
years old and bus been In California since
she was 2G. She Is beloved for her kind
ness and esteemed for the same quality of
mental gifts which have made her brother
famous.
Miss Anna Flonner of Atwood , 111. , Is an
undertaker. A few years ago her only
brother , a few years younger than herself ,
decided to begin a business career , and It
wus thought best that his sister Anna should
bo associated with him. Accordingly they
opened a store for the sale of furniture and
undertaking goods and .Miss Flonner became
a practical cmbulmer and undertaker.
Miss Christine Blanche Labarraque of
Berkeley college , California , Is the first blind
woman of the state to receive legal honors.
She will soon be a thoroughly equipped law-
jer. Although blind from birth , she has
been a great student. She took a full course
at the California blind Institute and gradu
ated with honors. She Is also a graduate
from the State university of. California.
Mrs. Bclva A. Lockwood and Miss Frances
Graham French have been appointed to rep
resent the United States at the second inter
national congress of charities and the second
international congress for the protection of
children at Geneva , Switzerland , on Septem
ber 15. They will likewise attend the Inter
national peace congress , to be held at Buda
pest , and the international woman's con
gress , 10 be held at Berlin.
Princess Louise. Marchioness of Lome , Is
the only one of the English princesses who
wears hur Imlr cither artistically or becom
ingly. All pictures of the others show too
much height and elaboration of heavy , deiiEO
waves of hair about the forehead , elongating
their ovcrlong countenances and producing
a topheavy effect. The hundbome march
ioness abjures ull court hair drcfcccrs , and
wears her thick brown hair in a graceful
cell , adapted to the shape o ( her head , with
just a little graceful wave back of the ears ,
and a soft , light fringe on the forehead.
Miss Ruth Hanna of Cleveland , daughter
of Hon. M. A. Hanna , Is a skillful horse
woman , and rides for pleasure almost every
day. When quite n little girl she was per
mitted to sit upon a horse Just as a boy
would , without n ladles' saddle , and the
habit has been confirmed with years , nnd
she refuses to wear skirts , and rides In a
unit of clothes which look at a distance
Just like a gentleman's. She rides a spir
ited bay horse , and frequently wears a
fawn-colored suit. The "coulctteB" are of
a peculiar cut , being loose and full at Hit.
hips and gradually narrowing down to a
close ( It at the knees.
The Empress Frederick Is reported as
making herself extremely popular with all
the Inhabitants of the little town of Kron-
berg. and nho Is Indefatigable- working
for and planning benefits for the quite poor
people. With the richer members of so
ciety , who possess villas In the neighbor
hood , she Is on excellent terms , and she
stands ou no ceremony , but visits them In
formally , and will take a cup of tea with
great pleasure If It Is being served at the
tlmo of her visit. Kronberg Is popular
with artists , a class for whom the empress
has a great admiration , and she shows
many acts of friendly kindness to them and
to her other neighbors.
CONMnilAI-ITIICH.
"Never go to bed with cold feet , " says a
medical authority. But what If your wife
won't warm them ?
Twenty-five bachelors of Jefferson county ,
Ohio , sent a committee to Gallon , Berlen
county , Mich. , whence a report had been
sent out that there were In the village
twenty-one handsome' widows , and the re
sult of the visit was tlve weddings , whllo
In a number of other cases negotiations are
In pi ogress and modi vlvendl have been
declared pending arbitration.
According to London Figaro , Miss Grace
Wilson , now the bride of Cornelius Vander-
bllt , Jr. , was oncu engaged to an English
man , to-wlt , Mr. Cecil Baring. The engage
ment came about during a visit which
Wilson pere and his daughter paid to Mr ,
,
Barlng'H father In England , The lawyers
of the parents of the high contracting parties
squabbled over the settlements and Mr ,
Wilson ultimately withdrew his consent , re
marking that Mr. Baring's demands were
ridiculous , as ho had to little and the Bar
ing family was a nvrf one.
An extraordinary story U current In the
European press to the effect that the Arctic
explorer , lr. Nanien , is about to be re-
i naniM to M * wife In consequence Of the
| fa , l that i.ri T to hi * departure on hli 1 at
\O > HKO in teardi of the north polo h
diumcil her In order to pcimtt her to
matry ngalu tn cane of his dlanpprarance
or death without going to the trouble ot
proving hl ilrtcnxe. In order tu under
stand this It must be explained that In
many countries In liuropp gteal strlctnea
prcialts with rrg rd to the remarriage of
women whose husbands' deaths cannot b
legally proved , absences of seven , ten and
pven fifteen jcnrs being requited by law
to furnish satisfactory cxldence that a mlsa-
IIIK spouse Is no longer In the land of tin
living ,
The youngest eloping couple on record
( pent stc\ernl hours at the Allefiheny ( Pa. )
police fetation one day last wtek and wcro
relumed to their parrnla. The would-bo
gioom wax Charles M. Pouglafl , aged 3
ye.iis. nnd his prospective In Me was Mar-
cm et ParpanU'r , aped S years and 0 mouths.
Both me blue-uyrd , llnvrn-hnlred tots , nnd
appealed very much In love with each
other. They were Indignant when pre
vented from going l a minister's to have
the knot tied. Miss Cnrpentor had her
arm linked 111 that of her lo\er , nnd they
well ) \\nlhlnt ; liunledly nlrng North avmie ,
Allegheny , hoadlns for n minister's houre ,
when a woman met them and asked where
thpy wcro going. "Miirdurct and nip's doln *
to dot mart led. " upoke up Charles , while.
Margaret hung her head nnd blushed and
said It was true. The woman cnvo Iho
youthful elopers In rhargp of an oftlcor.
"
( iot.nK.v uon.
n. 1C. MunklttrlcU , In llnrpcr'a Wocklf.
On the hussy hill It blows
In u Hpleiulur itiiy nnd drenmy ,
And the twilight noftly glows
In Its texluro rich nud crcnmy.
Round It llRhl n ether drifts
When the quail begins to whHtlP ,
And Iho ponslvp llght-wnvo shifts
All the silver of the thistle.
Little fnlry golden tico
in tlio meadow gayly waving.
All the landscape vividly
With n Hood of sunchlne laving.
Though It blows In fiumincr-tlmp.
"fls tbp toich of gorgeous yellow
That ablaze In autumn's ' pilmp
Sets the woodland brown and mellow ,
nnssit" Aiioi'T M > Tin IMCOIM.IS.
Charles Brondwny HOURS , the wealthy Now
Yorker who 1ms offered $1.000,000 for the
restoration of his fnlllng sight , was n Mnry-1
land farmer's boy nnd reached Now York
with hardly the price of n meal In his pocket.
Ho has made and lost several fortunes and
Is now n mllllonalro seVernl tlnios over. Ha
Is always down at his store before the clerks.
He fought on the ronfederuto sldo during the
war and has recently given $100,000 for a
southern "battle abbey. "
The Into Sir John Mlllnls was n graceful
speaker , but his speeches cost him a great
deal ot tlmo and labor. The London Dally
NPWS says that when a dinner was given
nt the Arts club on Lclghton's appointment
as president , Mlllals was In the chair. Ho
made an admlrablo speech so frank , so
sympathetic , so eloquent , so unstudied. They
congratulated him on It , saying they had no
Idea ho had that gift of oratory , or could
speak so well and so spontaneously. "Spon
taneous. " ho said , "why , that wretched
speech has kept mo awake for the last flvo
weeks ! "
Lord RiiFscIl's visit to America reminds the
.London Chronicle of an nnclcnt story. It
says that during Lord Russell's previous tour
In this country with Lord Coleridge ho came
In contact with many members of the bar ,
including Mr. Evarts , It was whllo walking
with Mr. Evarls ono day along the bank of a
stream that his attention was called to a
point at which Washington , according to a
tradition , had thrown a dollar right across.
The water was wide , and Lord Russell looked
doubtful. "You know n dollar went further
In those days than It goes now , " thu Ameri
can lawyer blandly Insinuated. "Ah , " said
Lord Russell , quite equal to the occasion , -
"and It may have been easy enough toYash -
thgton ; it is well known that ho threw a
sovereign across the Atlantic. "
When M. Jaqucs Hebrand , the editor of
the Temps of Paris , represented the
French East Indies In the French Scnato
some years ago , ho sent each of his forty
constituents daily a copy of his paper. On
the arrival of the mall steamer , ns the story
goes , the lucky constituents rushed down-to
the dock , seized their respective packets ,
tore oft the wrappers and proceeded to
fasten the broad sheets round their loins
as a substitute for their simple native at-
tlro. The post coming but once n fortnight
every supporter of M. Hebrand had where
withal to supply most of his male relatives ,
whllo the supplement , or "Petit Temps , "
came in very handy tor children. Thus for
nine happy years a largo proportion ot the
inhabitants were cheaply , If not elegantly ,
clothed by their grateful representative , and
when at last he severed tils connection with
the colony ho was far more sincerely bo-
walled than any tailor has ever been by his
cllonts.
The other day Maurice Thompson , the
writer , visited Calhoun , Ga. , his old boy
hood home.
"Who's that yonder ? " asked an old coun
tryman , Indicating Thompson , who was
standing before a grocery store whittling a
plno box.
"Tho tall fellow ? " .
"Yes. "
"That's Thompson Maurice Thompson. "
"What ! The feller what use tor play
croun' hero ? "
"The very some ! "
"You don't toll mo ? "
"Fact. But ho's a great man now ono of
the most successful of literary men. "
"Onposslblo ! "
"Fact , I tell you. He's n great man now , "
"Well , " said the old man , doubtfully , "hit
may bo BO , but hit don't look reasonable ! "
" ' ' "
"Not 'reasonable ?
"No ! Why" and ho drew closer nnd
lowered his voice a llttlo "ho used tcr go
fishln' with me ! "
Yale's
Skin
Food
Removes wrinkles and nil truces of ago.
It feeda through the porea umj | , UH | | ( up
tlio fatty inumbraiiPH atul wasted tUsucti ,
iiourlnlieH the wlirlvcled and uhrunkcn nkln ,
tcnea and InvlgoratfH the norvi-H und mus-
clcu , enriches the ImpoverlBhcil blood yen-
win and xupplies youth und elasticity to
HID action of the BKlli. It's perfect , ' ,
Ucwuro of niilmtltutt'H and counterfeit/ ! .
Yiila'n Original Skin Food , prlcu Jl.HI and
J300. At all drill , ' toren.
Guide to Heuuty mulled free. Write for
one ,
MMII. If. YAMJ. Health anil Coinjlcixlon |
Hpcclnllit , Yule Temple of Ikuuly. H6 Btal
Ireel. C'lilcagu.
KDUOA TIONAI. .
UfENTWORTII < > ' ' ' ' ' > t"'M- - > . ' ' -Ht Military h.'luii.l In tlm ! iiiitri \Vumt ,
" MILITARY E'J1"lMV' Equipment Completo. Supplied by tu Ooreru
a , * Send tn apAnrTMV nunt with Ami andAruijrOlUcor. AJ.lrusi ,
jff for Catalogue/O U ITH. HAIOII SANIFOftD SCUIRS , U. * . , SUPT. , LIIINQTOII , MO