TIPS OMAHA BAILT , RIBPTEMlUSll 0 , 185)0. ) 11.
Q
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
/ /
Fn < ilil < iiiiililp C'lviitloiiN fur Street , Din
ner mill Hull \\'riir.
NEW VOIIK , Kept. 3 At this moment
lUtlo may be learned In the way of now
autumn idiades. livery w hero there Is a
lull In the affairs at fnshlon. shopkeepers
contenting themselves with conttnucil naloj
nt summer stock , ( hi ? hinnrt dressmaking
, establishment doInK next to nothing , and
-Vlilinb as to jovs pro-spool Ivr.
In Paris ( nil rorselot belts , the colnture
hniltc , liavo been eloRant features of the
rinartest dotiii-soaton gouni. Ulch lace on
very open embroideries , lined with thlti
If.l.ko RllkK. or n web of liatlslc , were ma
terials of many of these holts.
Others were folded affairs of black at
I whltn silk or satin , or the gown material ,
CAIUUAOB TOILETS.
mime Introducing a fold or two In a con
trasting tint In tha plnlts.
.These fastened Innrlons ways , crossing
nt the side with n how or buckle , or else
looking as If theru was no opening nt nil ,
the BuatlihiK extending a llttlo below the
waist line and nt the top , coining high all
round.
This sort Is most charming for slight fig
ures , With some of the lace celntures the
wide effect Is mailo through separate appli
cation. In Vandyke points , leaf designs or
oval medallions. A velvet belt , pointed back
and front Is yet another sort , which Is a
ficqnent accompaniment to dressy Mlk house
blouses , and suggesting , with a dcllcato
MARin ANTOINETTE COLLAR.
lacing through eyelets , the old-fashioned
zoiio girdles.
The little jacket designs are of many va
rieties , always sleeveless and short all round
bolero and flgaro-fnshlon to show the wldo
"bfilt effects underneath , Some are worn over
silk blouses with basques , but If the jacket
Is only simulated , a square bolero In box
plaits will perhaps hang over a blouse of
ki'ted gauze. Hulling out In billows In front ,
or perhaps tiding nt the bust In dainty wing
bows.
In fclcevos , only close models have marked
the tall of tha summer season , so that the
natural Inference Is that the old balloon
affairs , jealously clung to for BO long , are
r.
MOMNR 1'OPLIN AND JETTED GINPURE.
at last entirely demode. At the shoulders
there are still many devices for giving that
bred look considered consistent with mod-
r Ish correctness but thu lower portions of all
jricivvs are as snug au comfort will allow.
DECORATED SKIRTS.
Trimmed sUlrU , fashion folk predict , are
luiuiinent , plain ones having been la now
IOIIR enough. With Ihelr flnunceB , frll !
lurks , embrol.lerles and lace Insets , ser
of the trimmed summer nkltts have be *
Jojs to behold , but , of course , winter le
tiles nrc not suited to tlin airy piling i
of material. When decorated winter skit
will run to flat effects , bands of fur. bra
or velvet , guipure and Jet appliques , ai
embroideries of many sorts. Here .11
there , too , a woman who has bad taa
enough may , with the approval of fas
Ion , be found to wear a skirt with co
trnstlng panels , and there Is a rumor
the nlr that hats arc to have high , st
clowns , and be trimmed with big , dnncli
feather In a s\vashlU"kllng fashion. /
this is breathed , and more , too , but as y
II Is only hearsay In Nuw York.
1'rnm Paris , however , conies word Ui
manufacturers and dyers arc ns busy
bees , and that \\p nro going to have mai
rnro and beautiful silks , and that nil t !
shades of purple , vlolluc , eminence , ct
nro to stay In.
ELEGANT COLLETS ,
Short shoulder capes , the coquettish cc
lets Frenchwomen have found convenlc
in not spoiling- fine slcotes , while adding
the dressiness of the toilet , will positive
be worn.
A few short capes of rloth In pale tin
have been pent out by the English tailor
but those of diaphanous materials , mounti
on silk , are the rage In Paris. All sorts
thin textiles nrc used , black silk nitisll
blnek chiffon and black novelty gauzes b
Ing the favorite ; these flounced , frilled ai
puffed full on a yoke and niched up to tl
cars nt the neck , or perhaps showing
magnificent collar of worked batiste or Jetti
guipure.
Illack no.ir gear In every variety of shnp
In fact , Is snld to be Just now the cap *
with modish Parlslcnncs. And even if tl
throat ruche is of white silk muslin or till
It will be edged with blnek , with chcnll
or narrow black velvet , while black ruflli
of all sorts will have rich facings of will
lace or white moussellnc In delicate tint
The motif is Invariably beautifying. Tl
absence of color at the throat tones dev
too brilliant complexions and makes a pa
red-mouthed face paler and more my
tcrlous. Last , but not least , the collet hi
the dignity of a wrap , many French womc
objecting to appearing on the street nbs >
lutcly en talllo nnd through n dress of on
a plain gown may be made Instantly el
gnnt.
MODELS ILLUSTRATED.
A ff.'w of these short capes pictured w
give some smart hints for nrst autun
wraps.
A dashing little collet of jetted guipu
Is frilled with black silk muslin.
The lining is of thin ecru silk and
breast knot and streamers of black sat
ribbon give n cocky finish.
A very handhomc capo Indeed show's
tippet yoke of jet-studded guipure.
Hero the lace Is pure white , and InstCi
of a silk lining thu back muslin Is llounci
on n circle of thin black cloth , which mak
the garment warm enough to be worn up
December.
The ends of the tippet are tassclcd wl
jet ornaments.
A combination of black tulle and glai
silk showing flecks of a vivid green ai
a golden yellow realize a dress > collet sulti
to n young matron and for very smart o
cnslons. The yoke Is adorned with rich lai
applications in a saffron yellow ; the thro ,
ruche Is of tulle over the figured silk.
For sloping shoulders that are bandson
est when on evidence , and for all roun
graceful figures , a Marie Antoinette colli
Is a pretty departure from the regulatlc
thing. These are also very short , con
across over the bosom fichu style , UIOUR
without the long ends which distinguish tl
flchu.
A charming- one of green spangled ta
fetas Is frilled with black tulle. One er
laps over the other and narrows to a shar
point , where it fastens at the waist undi
u knot of black satin ribbon ; at the back c
the collar there Is , a larger knot , like
stock Mulsh , of the same.
After the same models many other im
terlals may bo used for these capes It thes
are not like-1.
SOME NEW MATERIALS.
Figured silks of all sorts , cmbrolderc (
Imprlme or shot effects , may be employe
if prefcrrc'l , and trimmed with black c
colored gauze and black ribbon knots , niacl
however , is always the best trimming for
cape , showing color and ruches and frill
at thin textile are more becoming than thos
In thicker materials. Resides airy trln
tilings are the fashion which Is evcrythlnf
In th
Illustrated may
The two gowns
materials given be woin for smart moment
almost the entire winter. For plainer us
the vlollne gown could be worked out I
blue serge and black braid with excelleii
Direct. For the narrow quillings on the boO
Ice the belt and stock , black or colored sll
or velvet ; and If velvet is used the plpln
on the skirt should also bo the same.
Apropos of gown materials , "painted silk
French manufacturers ar
Is a nouveato
threatening for evening use. Whether It wll
"go" or not remains to be seen , Hut It ha
i pretty sound , suggestive of tinkling glassc
Hid mad music and Carrie's painted Ladj
NINA FITCH.
MISS TiTTim1 coiiso.v.
Tlir rioiiriT < > f Cooking ; School * li
'I'llIN Country IN Saill.v Altlletril.
There are few women the news of wbosi
crlous and permanent Illness will occasloi
nero widespread regret than that of Julie
fund Is nov
lorson , for whom a testimonial
inder way. There are other cooking schoo
enchcrs now before the public , but It I :
lisa Corson's name that stands for that re
Ival of Interest In cookery which has giver
t a representative place In schools , phllan
liroplc enterprises , and made It somethlni
nero than thu caprice of a day ,
Miss Ccrnon'8 connection with cookery wa
ncldental. It grew out of the panic of 1873
U that time she was a writer In New Yorl
Mty. Of an effort to alleviate the comlltlot
if thu woman and glrla thrown out of cm
doyment by thu sudden stopping of fnctorlc :
nd mills , she was made secretary. The 1m
losslblltty of ( hiding work for these unfortu
lates In the trades , suggested the proprletj
f opening schools to teach them the nrt :
f the laundry , sowing , cooking , chambei
, ork , and thus equip the factory girl foi
omcstla service ,
The first school was opened In Miss Cor
on's library and quickly became fashlona-
If. The fln t year nearly 1,000 women wen
aught. To the schools people came for al
irts of service. Thu greatest demand , how.
ver , was for servants , and thu strength ol
10 school fell In this direction.
Those In charge were wise enough to know
ml the most valuable results are obtained
oni the finest cookery , and an accomplished
lief was engaged. Miss Corson wrote tc
until Kensington and obtained the outlines
! their methods of teaching. These cook-
ig school le&sona were teen the talk of the
iwn , The places of the working girl were
lallcnged by the girl of leisure. When the
( stress saw Pallas , the chef , toss an oroe-
t , she wanted to take a. band. Then the
lok's emulous of the mistresses , made
Ivato demand for instruction ,
Thus there were classes for working girls ,
r rich Klrls. for mistresses , for cooks , for
iplrlng chefs. The town went cooking
ad , The chef , Pallas , by this time had
> en called to Europe , and the cooking lea
ns fell Into MUs Corson's hands. Her
hid Is of the orderly , eyetcmatlc kind. In
Idltlon to being a diligent student of the
arllcal side of cooking , she had applied
reelf to the study of the economics of
od. Her "Twenty-five cent dinners" be-
nie the text book in countless workmen's
lines. A famous dluner was it the time
\en to a dozen of such epicures as Robert
Dosevelt , which consisted of ten courses
id cost something under 20 cents a cover.
No less valuable were the ethical results
Miss Corson's teaching. When the tired
others , the Ignorant girls , and the slat-
rnly cooks saw Miss Corson drawing , bonK -
K , hands deep In everything , with spot-
gs cuffs , her best gown and aprou on , the
use of cooking rose lu every woman who
xards her appearance.
The enthusiasm for cooking i > eon spread
rough the country. Cooking club * .were or-
JVJ JV WJV. C/JV. l/J\J 4/JVJ
ganlzod In every city and town that fcl
Itself abreast of things , and Miss Corsoi
nns In demand from the Atlantic to tli
Pacific coast. Charitable boards , si hoe
boards , hospital boards asked for practlca
demonstrations. Thu organization of a die
kitchen In a Chicago hospital was In fac
Miss Corson's last public work.
TIII :
Srilnn Cliiilr * Hi-Kurdi-d wllli PIM o
li.v tin * ( Itrn-.Smart M-l.
N'outhat that august personage , U Hum
Chang , Is visiting America , we should b
able to sec the novel "vehicle" n scdai
chair. While In France ho was prcsentoi
with one , which Is an exact reproduction o
the one Mine , do Malntcnon used to taki
her outings In.
Of beautifully decorated wood , with jter
fumed leather seats , upholstered In ycllov
satin. It ia n dream of beauty. Fortu
nately , yellow happens to bo the Clilncsi
national color , BO LI Hung Chang can ra
pose In the scdnn chair , lined with that ga :
rolor. without shattering any of his coun
trj's traditions , for not only Is China tin
"Flowery kingdom , " but It is quite as oftci
spoken of ns the "yellow kingdom. "
Apropos to the sedan chair , even befon
there was a hint of Its being Introduce !
hero by the distinguished gentleman fron
China. It was , now and again , spoken of l > ;
society folk as "the coming conveyance. '
In England the subject was agitated a yea
or so ngo , and English magazines and pa
pers discussed the subject seriously , will
delightful Illustrations , in which mlfarti
looked so charmingly picturesque poor'ni
forth from the window of her chair tha
every maid and matron longed to add i
similar vehicle to her possessions. In
deed , one grand dame forthwith ordered i
clmlso a poetcur , made In the highest styli
of the art. She also ordered two extr ;
lacqueys , broad of shoulder , great of c.il
nnd gorgeous In llvcrv , and she sallloi
forth , first In the seclusion of her own pari :
afterward she ventured abroad , to her neigh
bor , Lady 's , for afternoon tea. Fron
that moment sedan chairs became populni
In that neighborhood , and Lilly ordcroi
one. likewise her grace , the duchess of
When Mis. Straus , wife of the Hon. Oscai
Straus , ex-minister to Turkey , resided It :
tliu east , she took her dally outing In n
sedan chair , convcxo'l by two plctuiesquelj
and gorgeously attire 1 Turks and a photo
graph she sent to a New York friend WOE
onu of herself seated In her chair. It \s \
n charming picture. Mrs. Straus being :
brilliant beauty of the brunette type , am1
the photograph has the place of honor upon
a Vernls Martin table in a. Fifth avenue
drawlnc room.
Mrs. Whltelaw Hold Is another lady win
can discourse eloquently of the delights
of riding In a sedan chair. When In Con
stantinople she often used this means ol
locomotion ; her sister-in-law , Mrs. Ogden
Mills , is somewhat enthusiastic on the sub
ject nnd doubtless when the sedan chali
becomes n part of twentieth century life ,
bho will be one of the first to order a trulj
magnificent one one upholstered. In crimson
damask and gold lace , and leather with
gold headed nails.
Although upon Inquiry , the writer cannot
discover that any coach builders have hail
orders In this country for sedan chairs , In
England a number that la four have al
ready been made and more orders arc ex
pected. As yet , however , they have not
appeared In the pimllc streets or parks ,
"Tho Sunday parade knows them not. " sc
nn American girl writes home from London ,
"but In the country , in private parks or
lordly estates perhaps more nourish than
ono would suspect. "
IIKill COMAKS.
The Krn Sinnrt Xi-t'U\vriir Hlisef
Aliov k flit' I2zir lolifN *
By her collar you may know her. If It la
i stock of ribbon or silk , crinkled amnlv
round her throat and tied Into a more 01
less looped and winged bow behind , you may
be nure that some honest but provincial
seamstress controls tl-e destinies of her
wardrobe. As long ago as last spring that
lent but monotonous methods of nook deco-
atlon was emphatically called In by fashlon-
ible modistes and It may surprise the wearer
EARLY AUTl
of the ribbon throat band to flud there mo
bomethlng like a dozen styles of now collars
Hha might adopt.
Now nnd henceforth , or as far as wo cm
see Into future fashion , all neck flnlshlngH
will be just as high or higher and just as
tight or tighter than before. The autumu
tailor suits are not cut off flat at ttu base
of the throat and then a band set on , but
the collar Is part of the cloth bodice , U
shapes right up from the front and back , as
high almost as tha loba of the cars , Is
Ulncked and fitted In , to clasp one's neck
without a wrinkle , shows a continuation of
the shoulder seams and looks as tight as one
can bear it under the chin. At the top It
falls In as narrow or deep a roll over as In
dividual taste demands , or the upper full
ness is nlt ! into a pretty braided ruff of
tabs. If a woman does possess what the
French call a con rte cygno and a good
shoulder line this glove-flttlng collar is the
most becoming thing In the world , but it is
just a little cruel on the individual whoso
head rests nearly evenly on her shoulders.
There never was , however , a greater mis
take than for a short-necked woman to cut
her collar very low , She only em
phasizes her defect , and the clever
dressmaker will give her a very fully
wrinkled stock with ear bunches. Her
stock must hook neither behind nor
before , but under her left ear , be
made of bias silk or satin and where thu
fastening Is made , a > ery big satin or chiffon
rose bow must be set. Thin , and its com- !
panlon on the other Mile , ought to stand
up high enough to cover all rtho lobe of the
car. tifU1
Even on tailor suits stichrear-bunches are
often made of silk muslin or chiffon and of
ruby red azelca pink , or blncK , by why of
dainty contract to the stftfel ? severity of
the rest of the gown. Hut'ofVburae If your
conservative soul demands a rJbbon throat-
let nnd rear bow , make the'bow ' small nnd
turn over , under your chni , t\iree \ or four
wedge-shaped tabs , with law or betdlng
round the edges. They havp 'such ' n good
effect.
,
Just a many smart walking gowns and
house suits have glove-fltllng .collars aa the
tailor's products , but the greatest number
are garnished off with ruffs , , The piopcr
ruff Is deeply gophered , stnndsrout about nn
Inch ami n half nnd Is made of ; silk , or rib
bon , or stiffened linen and lapo. but Jui.t . as
the rear bow swept the country like nn epi
demic so do the car bows threaten to per-
val- ! . ,
valFrom urder the ears now sprout on model
gowns double or single butterfly wings. The
flrst are of wired laco. the second cf satin
or muslin nnd lace Is considered nn ngrjen-
blo combination. The wings must stand up.
not droop , nnd be fastened to n high
wrinkled silk band. Quito as Imposing are
the various uses of starched Inec As inueli
ns two yards are often plaited Into one col
lar. Only an edge nppenrs under the chin ,
but from under the cars a great frill begins
to stand out widening , until at the back. It
The Jnpai'cso language contains no
swear words- which may help to account
NEW NECK DECORATIONS. for the eagerness of young Japan ( o learn
falls like a draped veil. A conservative
adaptation of this fashion -Is exccedligly
pretty , when a length of 1-cally fine lac , Is
used and the frilling only Just toucnes tl1 ; ,
, shoulder seam. But prettier -still are the
j white muslin collars. They nro of two types ,
| the Geneva bands , or half Medici colliers ,
i The bands are among snowy embtoldtred
| muslin tabs , drawn out uqder the chin , just
like the white tabs Calvauistic clegymen
i wear. A Mcdlcl coUlcr stands high up
j around the back of one's , bead , but Is silt
under the ears and folds do n , tabwlse , below
I
low one's chin. Lace or luce-edged muslins
are used for this , for no collar is now com
plete without a touch of lacc. ,
On calling toilets It Is qoiumon enough to
so a rarely fine Mechlin on ( Valenciennes
bcarf simply wound twice about thu throat
and then tied Into an eighteenth century
cravat In front , or a glove-fitting collar Is
, made to flare open nt the top. Inslda a facing -
; ing of mallnes lace Is laid , the points Jast
falling over the top edge and two delicate
ends falling out long at the back.
All of this frou-frou elaborateness has put
I aside , for a time , any use of brooches , pins ,
Jeweled collars and the like , whllt some
I hhrewd women , who care for many Inex
pensive sets of collars , make chiffon ruffs
JMN WRAPS.
or lace ones with satin crmats to knot al
the base of the neck. ;
A THAIMS THAT 1'AYS.
hoiiKlt of Hi'ccill Orlnlil , It Flllx 11
I.OIIK 1'Vlt Want ,
As a suggestion for a thrifty llttUtradi
that might be undertaken py women n our
smaller towns , attention may bo drawn to
one that has recently sprung up In some
of the larger cities , and In the shortest possl.
ble Bpacu of time has assumed the proportions
tions cf a flourishing business. .
Time was when the average woman con-
Eldered it her bounden duly to reblnd and
generally renovate her own dress skirt. Hut
after having fatally Injured many an expen
sive gown drawing It a llttlo , In some mys
terious manner , here ; snipping It In qulto
an Inexplicable way a llttlo too short there ;
allowing It to droop a trllle somewhere else-
finding In fact that by the ono apparently
simple process she has transformed a beau
tiful tallor-mado gown Into a dowdy sort of
an affair that might have been made by any
body , she baa comu to realize that binding
and pressing a good gown Is an art along
with millinery and dressmaking , and la to
be attempted by the specialist alono. In
deed , she can't afford to regard the matter
lightly , and might better economize almost
anywhere elsu than to try to eavu the (1.25
that It takes to have her gown properly re
bound and pressed ; nor Is she likely to fall
into the error after bay IDS once trotcd tuo
cnttstactlon of seeing a somewhat shabby
gown came homo with the fresh new look
that the experienced hand knows how to Rive
it.
Ono must not , however , undertake this oc
cupation without thorough training from a
tailor , Pressing a dress skirt has come to
bo about as Important an affair with women
ns the crease In the trousers with men. Hut
It may be said for the encouragement of any
one wishing to enter upon this business
that a firm in n large city lias within three
* ccks from the date of first advertising this
craft secured the names of 1,600 women en
rolled ns clients on their books.
l' -iili- | III lllxtoryVlio Made Hit-
Uiilnt.i rioncr I'muinm ,
The forpet-me-not , or water scorpion grass ,
blossoms in Juno nnd continues flowering
till August.Two or three wild flowers arc
occasionally honored with this sentimental
name. In Queen Elizabeth's 1 1 mo it was
often applied to the ground pine , a small
yellow flower found on sandy banks or
gravelly fields , with Its blossom so hidden
among f. profusion of leaves us to some
what resemble n pine. In our days the
germander speedwell Is sometimes designated
but It is seldom
nated the forget-me-nots ,
so called by persons well acquainted with
flowers , and It probably originates In Its
being mistaken for the niyosolls , says tl
Newcnsjtlc Chronicle.
Whether the species of myosotls whlc
glows in the fields , the small , brilllai
blossom of which looks like a cluster <
blue turquols. or the large kind , whlc
grows on ihe stream , be the true forget-nv
not , may be disputed. Ilotanlsts , how eve
In France. Germany nnd England seem i
agree thnt It is the Intter. The water sco
plon grass grows plentifully In most coui
try streams. Its long cluster of plnkibl
colored bhoots , bending nearly into a cl
culnr form before expanding , procured f <
all their bpeclcs the name of scorpion gras
Our forefathers , acting upon their UbU
pilnclplcs of analogies. Inferred from tl
shape o' the young shoots that It was
remedy against the bites of scorpions , undi
which name were included snakes , adde :
and other reptiles.
The old legend of the knight who wj
drowned while attempting to Rather for
lady some of the flowers mubt nov yield t
nn apparently more authentic account of it
origin. Miss Strickland , in her history c
the queens of England , gives a statemei
as to the cause of the name forget-me-no
scarcely less than that which has for cer
turles been sung by poets of all the land
of Europe. Speaking of Henry of Luncastc
Rhe sa > s : "This royal adventurer th
banished nnd aspiring Lancaster appeal
to have been the person who gave to th
forget-me-not its emblematical and poetlct
meaning , by uniting It at the period of hi
exile , on his collar of S. S. , with the In
tlnl letter of his mot , or watchword , 'Soi
-\elgno vons ed moy , ' thus rendering It th
symbol of remembrance , and like the subbc
quent fatal roses of York , Lancaster an
Stuart the Illy of Bourbon and the vlok
of Napoleon a historical flower.
"Few of those who , at parting , oxchang
this simple , touching appeal to memory , at
aware of the fact that It was first used n
such by a royal Plantagenct prince , wh
was , perhaps. Indebted to the agency of till
mystic blossom for tile crown of England
H was with bis hostess , nt that time wif
of the duke of Bretngne , that Henry ex
changed this taken of good will and re
membfancc. "
THK l-ATHST KAIl.
Collecting Ti-iiiiolx the I , n test Tlilni
III Cntliiiili.
One of the latest Now York crazes Is th
collecting of teapots. A leader of socletj
who started the Idea , has alieady amasse
a collection of over 1,000 examples , varyln
in capacity from three gallons to under
thimbleful. The material Is most heterc
gcncous ; copper , silver , glaze , crackle-
every sort of pottery Is represented and , o
couise , every color. One pot reprcbcnl
Ruddha ; heads , figures , birds , anlmali
fishes , beetles and reptiles turn out to bo re
ceptacles for the favorite beverage , sonic c
the prettiest bt'ing ' tiny swans , In fact , th
fair enthusiast who spent some years I
Japan In pursuance of her table has rcaso
to bo proud of her trcasuies , though the en
deavors of her friends to emulate her ma
succeed in sending up the price of teapot
to an alarming extent.
AN OIJT-O1'-IJATI3 COUIMiK.
Chamber's Journal ,
AVe nro "so out of date , " they Buy ,
Ned nnd I ;
Wo love In nil old-fiibhloncd way ,
Lonir slncu gonu by.
Ho Biiyu I am his helpmate true ,
In everything ,
And I well , I will own to you
Ho Is my klni , " .
Wo met In no romantic way
'Twlxt "glow and Bloom. "
Ho wooed mo on n winter day
And In a room.
Yet , through llfe'B hours of stress am
storm ,
When erlffB befell ,
Jyovo kept our small homo-c'orncr w.irin ,
And nil WUH well ,
Ned thinks no woman like his wife
Hut let that POBH ;
Terhupa we view the dual life
Through rosi'iito glims ;
Even if thu prospect bo not bright ,
We hold It true
The henvlest burdens may grow light
When shared by two.
Upon the elided scroll of fa mo
Embldzoned fair ,
I cannot hope to rend the numo
I proudly beur ;
But happy In their even flow ,
The yc-ura glide by.
Wo are behind the times , wo know ,
Ned and I. _ _ _
Kaxliliui
Many of the autumn silks have a falnl
not tied ground figured with small brilliant
i'erslan designs , This mottled effect In
'ery pretty "flarabl , " the Parisian silk man-
ifacturers call it , obtaining thu name from
lie technical vocabulary of the French
; lass blowers.
Formerly gray was looked upon as a color
'or ' elderly women alone , but fashions , like
: ustom > , "cbangu with times and cllmc-s , "
md now gray In endless Hutu and tones , in
ovely monochromes , is chosen by girls
icarcely out of their teens , and la worn by
air and dark alike.
Liberty silks and satins hare found such
Brent for with French ateliers on account
of their pliable texture , light weight , ret
rich , limit-on * quality , that they nro be
coming unUersnlly favored for entire ROW-US.
AS well as tor the acci soi lea of bodices stul
fancy wraps for evening wear.
Muny of the prettiest fancy wools for
autumn ntc In mtxtutc * of faun color with
stem green , brown or blue. Downs nf oft
gray-bluo tml gltixving pnnsy tints hae
\ost. rovers and collar of Itenv ) corded silk ,
edged ! with glittering metallic gimps show
ing n blending of rich I'ctsl.in colors.
Pink or violet chiffon Is used with good
effect on the bodices of gray gownt. and a
Very stjllsh dress Included In the lrous eau
ItrUlo Is of slhcr-
of a inospcctlvo St. Louis
crny ctepo tiechlno over gray taffeta silk
dimmed on the bodice with gold nnd silver
gimp nnd palo jellow mousselalno dc sole ,
dotted with gold ami silver sequins nnd
bends.
Some new gowns from the noted houses
of Felix , Pnsquler and Para Mayer are In
prlncosSe stjlo. open nt the back nnd fin
ished either with full slecxcR and bodice
part cut out square In the neck , or cut half
low and slcuvulcss to admit of a prei--
French gulmpo und sleeves of some elegant
material cither very rich and heavy or very
diaphanous.
Most of the new tucked y veiling gowns of
gauzy material ha\p rows of handsome lace
Insertion between , nnd thU forms an cxcicil-
Ingly pretty addition. Other charmln
i toilota are made with full skirts of dlaphn
nous fabric , with Gainsborough fichus c
tulle or mousselalne do sole crossed over th
I corsage , passed under the arms and tied a
! the back.
| With many of the new velvet boleros an
Jacket-bodices will be worn lovely broad col
lars of Venice point , point applique , or t
very sheer batiste embroidered In quaint an
beautiful llemlsh or Renaissance patterns o
old Roman arabesques , with deep culfs t
' match , tunVed back over the close coa
sleeve , or edging In dainty frills , the mous
, i quctnlrc point falling over the back of th
hand.
i ( The new Louts XV. coats are made wit ;
short basqti ° s , elegant walUcoats , high stand
Ing collars , and deep gauntlet cuffs. Th
Louis XIV. models have rovers , wide hi
pockets on the waistcoat , and show no cuffs
Fawn colors , silver grays , and soft nun'
grays with a touch of cream In them appca
among the fall sample lists of some of th
most beautiful taffetas , Liberty satins , lus
trous corded silks , mohairs , alpacas , am
sheer silk-warp wools.
Stylish new ulsters are made of a shor
diagonal material , which has the llgh
charm of alpaca. They nre cut either li
the Chesterfield shape , fastened down tin
front beneath n fly , or buttoned on tin
shoulder with one small strap at the waist
nnd hanging loosely to the hem. Anothci
style Is a sort of jacket shape , made dc
tachablo , so that either portion may be
worn alone , the lower forming n not unusual
skirt.
Many of the double-width soft woolen
fabrics to bo used this autumn again show
the effective close fleecy surface woven on
the reverse sldo that makes them most ap-
pioprinto for Jackets and capes , with gowns
matching them In color , but of lighter ma
terial. Some of the goods for cold wcathei
garments are thus fleece-woven. They an
as warm and durable as beaver cloth , yd
extremely light and pliable , and of the best
quality and purest dye.
For those who have tired of the blue and
black mohair costumes for utility wear out
of thu styllbh tailor-gowns for early fall wear
will bo of Oxford-gray suiting , In which
only a llttlo gray Is woven with brown , yet
every atom of the gray * is visible.
Hyde park woolens are among the early
fabrics designed both for tailor-gowns and
coats. They aio of medium weight and show
irregularly woven threads In light gray ,
green , or brown mixtures with white ; or in
cream and chestnut shades woven In wide
diagonals.
The silk waist , as a set-off and complement
of a separate skirt of some handsome de
scription , has taken another lease of life and
will retain Its present popularity through tin
autumn bca&on at least , spite of opposing
prophcclfH and declarations against Its con
tinued vogue. Fcr autumn It Is proposed
to make It chiefly In rich dark silks the
heavier qualities of fancy taffeta , plain lus-
troUB , flno rtpped faille , unpatterncd or
woven of two colors , velvet atrlpcd Liberty
silks and satlnu , fancy satin surahs In
Oriental effects , etc. , and to harmonize them
us much as possible In point of color with
the skirts they will be worn with.
A gown suitable for a child between 2 and
4 yours of ago Is of pale pink or blue linen ,
made like a simple smock , with the top of
the back and front hreadtlm act In a. multi
tude of very small tucks , from which the
bklrt falls In unrestrained folds. This IB
finished at the bottom with small tucks and
two tiny rufllc-8. The bishop sleeves are
tucked at the wrist In the same manner
as the neck of the frock , forming cuffs , and
from the top of the tucks to the- gathering
In nt the shoulder the sleeves form big puffs.
The dress Is finished at thu neck and hands
with a tiny rufllo e < lged with Valenciennes
laco.
laco.A stylish promenade gown for either the
seanlde or the races IB of dcllcato green
cloth , trimmed with gold or white braid ,
tin ended through cuts In the garment , the
cuts being buttonholed around with white
or gold silk. Tliero are buttons to match
the braid. The skirt Is finished at the
hem with rows of stitching to match the
braid. The i Igcs of the zouave- jacket ,
epauktB , cuffs , anu both sides of thu front
breadth are cut In squares and flnlshcxl by
fastening each point down with a button
over a row of the braid. Under the zouave
jacket Is a white mull bodice , elaborately
trimmed with Valenciennes lace insertion
and edge , and finished at the neck with a
llttlo cravat of thu mull and laco.
1'Viiilnlnc .Viilt'H ,
Miss Ella Hlgglnson has just been ap-
lolnted otllclal poet of the Washington State
'ress association ,
MisB Kate Rorke , the young and popular
{ ngllsh actreca , has decided to make a
our of this country , commencing in the
lUtumn ,
Mrs. Arthur Sewall , wife of the demo-
ratio candidate for vice president , Is en
xpcrt amateur photographer , and baa re-
elved diplomas for her work in Paris ,
Jew York and Boston.
Lady Kortrlght laid the foundation of a
ew wing for thu hospital of thu women and
hlldren of Westminster , England. The
cost w'11 ' b < > JiB.OOO , mid will bo largely
detrnjcd by Lndy Kortrlght herself ,
IMroness Hlrsch Is rontlnulnc ; the philan
thropic cnlcrptl'Cft of her late husband.
She 1ms just given $20,0 0,000 to his scheme
providing for the Immigration of Indigent
Jews from Russia to the Argentine re
public.
* ' .rs. Eugene Field It the proud possoainr
of a Jefferson Davis chair and n Oladstono
n\ . among other articles left by her hus
band. The furniture mid brlc a-brno arc
valued at JC.oOO. and cnmpilso many nuo
curios.
Miss Florence * K. I'pton. the llluMrntor ,
has ( issued n book , In conjunction with her
sister , Miss Itortba I'pton. who wtoto the
words of the poem. The elaborate pictures
show the numcioiis aiUmtutco of the Gol-
llwogg llleyelo club.
Miss Ragna lto.\oseii. sister of the Into
distinguished professor nnd lecturer , Or H.
H. lloycEeti , Is lecturing most ncccptnbly
throughout Noiway There Is n strong
probability of her making nn American tour
this coming winter.
Miss Barbara llrndb ) Is the first Oxford
woman Million ! who has taken first honors
In two ICiiKllsh tmherslty examinations ,
both being , In her ease , classical. She has
Just now passed the most creditable ox.nn-
Inntlon nt the school Lltorrao llumnnloren.
Mine. Wagner Is unusually pleased nt the
success of the summer festival nt Beyrouth ,
nnd hns nlreadv decided upon repenting
"Her Ring des Nlbleliingen" next year , And
there will be two representntlons of "Pnr-
slfnl , " which for many > enrs will bo given
exclusively at Beyrouth.
Mis. Stdson. who corresponds for vn- '
rloiis newspapers throughout the world , nnd
Is best knnun as the author of n book en
titled "For This Our World , " recently rep
resented the stntc of California nt nn In-
tern.ttlonnl tongrcss held In London ami
was considered ono of the most Interesting
personalities plcscnt.
Lady Kntherlno Someiset has been pic-
sented with nddrcsscs of eongr.itulnttoii
upon her mnrrlngo. This testimonial wnn
from the tempeinnee women nnd the Young
Women's Christian nssoeiiitlon , Lord Henry
Pmnerset , Lndy Kntherlno's husband , ami
his mother being present nt the ceremony.
Mrs. Susan N. Carter , who died recently
In New Yoik , was for twenty-lho years the
olllclent principal of the art school of Cooper
Institute. Mrs Cnrter wns eminently titled
for the position mho filled successfully so
many years nnd rendered many services
for nrt In general In this country. The
struggling students found In her n motherly
friend , who assisted them to help them
selves.
A > t'Xiiinnn.v RUHST.
Christina lliirkr In I'.ill Mull Mainzlno.
Sorrow once s.ild to Youth : "I needs must
dwell
With theo nwhlle I pray thee let mo In ,
Tor If than shelter mo It shall be well ,
And tliou fresh treamiru for thlno own
shall win ,
New conquest qver Self , new Htrongth
'gainst Sin. "
But Youth rutuseil ; and swift shut-to the
door ,
Crying , "Depart , I will not see thy fncel"
Yet Sorrow knoekvd more loudly than be
fore ,
Ple.iillniT , "Lot mo nbldo with thee n npnco
I.cs t 1 some fo.ir.Mome foim nm forced to
taku
The heart Hint will not yield I needs must
break ! "
Then Youth , with tears , no longer dnred
delay.
Hut bade the Rti anger welcome till ono
day ,
Jlehold ! Joy s.it In SOIIOW'H v.icnnt place.
n * . . ! ! . . t. .
English.
Removes wrinkles nnd nil traces of ago.
It feeclH through the pores and bulldH up
the fatty mombrnni'N nnd wasted tlsmieH ,
nourishes the Hhrivcled and Hhrnnkcii Hkln ,
tones and invigorates the ncrvcx and inus-
cleH , enrlehcH the Impoverished blood veu-
Hols and Hiipplles youth and elasticity to
the action of the Hkln. It'x perfect.
Hcwaro of substitute.1) and counterfeit ) * ,
Ynlo'H Original 8kln Food , price fl.DO and
$3 00. At all drug Hton-H.
Gnldo to Beauty mulled free. Wrlto for
one.
one.MMi ; . M. YAM ? , llenlth nnil Complexion
KpeclullBt , Yule Temiilu uC llciiuly , HI' , Hlute
street , Chicago.
PATRONIZE
INDUSTRIES
Y purchasing uoodn made
at tin ; following Nebraska -
ka f i dories. If you can
not fitul what yon want ,
communicate with the
inaiuif..cttuvr- to
w li a t dt. Icrs handle
their i
BAO.S. HUHLAP AND TWINE.
IIHM1.S OMAHA llAfi CO.
Manufacturer * of all klnii of cotton and bur
lap IIUKU , cotton Hour urki and twine u nueo
laity. CH-llC-tlS H. llth HI.
URB wisni us.
0.11AIIA lilt i\V AhhOUIATlO.V
Car load ililprnents inailo In our own refrig
erator turn. Iliue Itlbljon , Uliie llxporl , VlentA
Export und Family Import delivered to all pa'.iw
of the city.
IHON WOHKS.
DAVIS A ; L'OXVIilM * 1KO.V U'OHK * .
Iriiii anil llriiNH i''oiiiiil < > r .
Manufacture ) * and Jnliberi cf Machinery. Utn.
fral repairing a ipeclaliy , KOI , 1503 and ICO )
) ) ik&on Hlreet , GiimlM , Neb.
iNniivruiAK mo"woilics. .
Manufacturing and repairing of all klrWI of
r.uchlntry , enKlnca , pump * , uletator * . prfntInK
> re silianKtrn , nhafluif and roupllnvi. Hl ( and
< 0i Howard HI , Omaha ,
I'AXTOIV .V VIKKI.INfJ IltO.VVOHICN ,
Manufacturer ! ( > ( Architectural Ircn Work ,
lenerul Kuundiy. Machine and llluck inlll' work ,
llriKlni'i-rs and Onlructnm lor Flie 1'ioof Kulld-
ntri. Ofute and works ; U. I' , IIy. uid Bo ,
lith rlrret. Omaha.
NIGHT WATCH , PIUB BI5RVICIS.
"
VMKHItJ.V.V DlhTHICT Tiii : < ) UAI'll ,
Tlie only perfect protection to propettx Kiam-
ne 't. ' lint tlilnK on earlli , Iteduce * laturunc *
atn. 1304 DoUKlai itrcH.
KACTOHIES.
r. n , 15VA.VH MIIUASKA : BHIUT
ilscluclve cuitcm ililrt tatlot * . 1511 Furnarn.
TENTS ANIi AWNINGS.
\VOM < ' IID.OH. A ; CO ,
Manufacturer * u ( tenli , swnlnti , larpullani ,
[ K > . liannen and tr merii. TKNTH FOli
UCNT , 7W-7W Boutli UUUenth cue it ,
