THE 03rAITA DATLY 1M3E : A1T0 TST 30 , 1890 , 1.1
W feAl l l lJ l lM 'fe '
I I F IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
l-'lin.VCII FASHION'S.
ff.ntc .Siiiiinirr Style * SuuKonllvc of
Kui-lj- it I tun M Minion.
PAHIS , Aug. IB. Thoio tliftt were nt the
[ TrouvlllC'Dcauvllle races can say with truth
thnt they hnvc seen the full blossoming of
' the year's fashions , and In ft worthy netting ,
nltln Ben nnd while sand circled them nboul
ml the sunlight fell , not nti at Paris , hut
gently on the wing of fresh breezes , with n
I gliding and a caress. Thu betting and rnclnp
I kept the senses nlert. Uvcry toilette waa
I seen to advantage and every toilette wns In
nome part a synthesis ! of the year's art. The
grand boulevard was out on picnic.
The dress appeared astonishingly simple ,
I but this Is because It WHS well designed.
All good art , an 1 Imvo remarked before ,
looks simple , whether on ft canvass or In a
gown. It does not follow thnt It IB easily
produced. This Is a good gubjcct fbr incdl-
CHECK SUIT.
tatlon when one Is on the eve of spending
money foolishly.
The Duchesso do Luynes , who Is here on
her native heath , having been born In Dou-
dcauvllle , was In old rose batiste over rose ,
with rovers on the blouse of white muslin
and Valenciennes lace and pink straw hat
trimmed with black velvet and red roses
And the Daroness do Haycn was In whit
muslin and guipure mounted over yello\
Bilk , with flaring collar and cuffs of orang
satin and bolt OP orange velvet. White gu
| pure toque trimmed with black. The Baron
ess Alphonsc de Hothschlld wore white sll
with black designs and largo black hat with
white plumes. The Countess Jeanne d
Ganay wore biego muslin trimmed with nar
row black velvet ribbon ; the Countess d
Porlgord was In white pique , and the Count
FLANNEL. HOUSE QOWN.
PBS Boiil do Castellanc nco Gould In
flowered rose muslin.
These toilettes worn on the race course
worn equally worn for dinner nnd the Casino.
They represent the full dress of summer.
FINE COLOR EFFECTS.
Many thin gowns seem to depend on color
for their effect and are very llttlo trimmed.
Soruo are In crosswise tucks. The whole
blouse Is In Inch tucks'running round and
the skirt Is tucked to the knee. The sleeve
tops are tucked also. This seems to glvo
body to the material and kc < n > It In form.
Such gowns If elaborated have a band of
black velvet ribbon sot between each tuck.
For foulards especially this Is the latest Idea.
I do not know how It may strlko the Im
agination of the reader hut ouo of the most
FLAX COLORED JUTISTH.
effective toilettes on the race course was'all
black with the exception of the lower .part
of the blouse front front thu yoke down ,
and this wan of light green. The yoke Itself
wan black. No color anywhere cUe. Large
hat all black. The gown wag utauilne and
thu green was plaited chiffon.
In the catalogue of more elaborately made
Kowus may bo described one of flax-colored
latUto , barred .with browu aud yellgw. Oil
the skirt nro three narrow overlapping ru
flits at the bottom , the lower one of blat
velvet , nnd at the height of the knee ai
two more , the lower one also of black velvc
An nccordlon-plnltcd bolero , closed In fron
falls over n wtdt belt of black satin. Tl
Blcrvo top IK formed of three ovrr-lappli
rufilcs , draped to cross each other , tl
lower ono of velvet. Hot of llax-rolon
manllln stiaw turned tip toward one side , li
stead of directly behind , as has been tl
sale fashion and trimmed with block vt
vet ribbon , black iiillls. | A large rhino slot
hucklo directly In front , and red and orani
flowors.
AUTUMN SUGGESTIONS.
The reader's attention Is called partlci
larly to the above toilet , an It has In
some elements for autumn. Gowns will 1
made like this In cloth , and the matcrlft
and colors In the hat nro the latest woi
In millinery.
A toilet that had much success was
black trlinmod with bands of black gillpui
laid over orange. The material wi
ctnmlne. A wide band of the trimming rn
down the front of the blouse nnd down tl
front of the shirt to the foot. Then tl
remainder of the blouse was covered wit
narrow bands of the guipure running roun
The top of the slccvo was formed of tv
double ruffles , one falling over the otht
and both striped round llko the blotis
Manilla straw hat trimmed with black vc
vet nnd flowers ,
An Idea that has been popular all summi
Is Illustrated In n gown of pcvres blue vel
Ing trimmed with narrow white soutacl
braid. The upper part of the blouse to tl
top of the neckband nnd out to the vet
edge of the rolling collar , nnd the skirt I
the knees nro covered with bands rim tilt ;
round. The braid docs not go directly r
the blouse , but on n yoke collar wit
epaulettes attached , the whole making 01
rounded outline over thu sleeves. I hn\
seen at ono of the dressmakers n modi
like this for autumn cnrrlcd out In grco
cloth nnd brown snutnche.
Plaids nnd checks continue their trim :
phant career. Nothing Is In more fnvi
with chic women. The cnecks are In bint
nnd white only ; If color Is used somcthlr
Is lost from the style. This something
simplicity. There Is little now to say as
their make-up. They absorb quantities
black velvet ribbon , and black , white ni
silver braid. Some In silk made for cor
mnnlous wear are trimmed with plaltlni
of black chiffon. Thus a checked silk ski
has three flounces of black chllTon and tl
blouse Is covered with the chiffon.
Some of the new Jackets have flarlr
cuffs at the wrist. They arc not very wld
but they stand almost straight out , and ai
slashed In two places. Very few polntt
rcvers are seen ; they arc for the most pa
all straight and run down to the edge i
the Jacket.
Very much admired arc gowns of blac
foulard flowered with a large pattern. Tin
are made up without a vestige of trlmmln
the pattern being quite decoration enougl
The skirt Is shirred round the hips ai :
hangs very full , and the blouse Is shim
or else has some full yolc drapery. Tl
Idea Is to cut the material as little as po
Bible. The style of these gowns Is In the
simplicity. They are considered ceremon
ous enough for dinner and evening wca
The necjc Is made high , as Is that ot all hi
the ball gowns at present , hut the sleevi
may stop at the elbow If desired.
MATINEES AND TEA GOWNS.
More things than the long traveling cloa
toke their cue from the loose box coat. Th
morning gown used to bo fitted behind an
bolted In front , but now It touches the flgut
nowhere but at the shoulders and hanf
loose all round without suggestion of bel
Such gowns cither are accordion or sir ]
plaited , or else they have plaits only In th
middle of the back and front , according t
the material. Thin ones are made of ecr
battsto and of light wools printed llko th
foulards of this season In Japanese mnnnei
white on blue , white on black , red on whltt
Very delicate ones are of dotted Swiss mm
Iln over color. They fall from a yoke and th
loose sleeve reaches over the elbow. Warme
ones are of flannel. I have seen one of grn
flannel , side plaited , and trimmed wit
bands of narrow black velvet ribbon , a clue
tor of bands near the foot , another part wa
up and a third Just below the black velvc
yoke. Square epaulettes of velvet fall out 01
the sleeve , carrying out the line of the yoke
And another of plaid annel In which thcr
Is much white and yellow , trimmed als
with black velvet.
A rr.oro formnl style of house dress I
made with a Garibaldi blouse and a fill
skirt In plaits or shirs. The blouse I
gathered on the shoulder under the stra ]
stitched down over the scam , a stltchc
box plait Is down the middle and th
hlouso droops over the belt all round. I
should bo made In soft material such a
foulard or liberty silk. This model serve
for n simple breakfast gown or for a rlcl
afternoon reception gown at home , accordlni
to the material used , and there Is consldera
bio chance to vary the design. For aftcrnooi
a pretty gown has the skirt of black llbert ;
silk printed with a cashmere pattern , and j
blouse of scarlet chiffon. Over the blous
may bo worn a sleeveless bolero of blac ]
velvet. Another has the skirt of red foul
ird and the blouse of cream chiffon , wltl
licit and collar band of black velvet.
Gowns having n similar effect are madi
also In ono piece on a prlncesso lining
This permits the addition of some loiif
lines running from the shoulders down
Dno thus made has the skirt of browi
China crepe figured with white , and tin
jlouse of white crepe. Over this nro lali
loose fronts running from the shoulder
lown to the foot , of the brown lined will
white ; nnd on the back. In order to carrj
> vcr the shoulders and complete the line 01
irown mndo by the IOOBO fronts. Is ar-
angcd n bolero effect , really a big box plali
> f the brown lined with the white , thai
falls loose to below the armholes , and rlsci
ilgh in the neck to form a standing collar
rho effect of this Is exquisite ,
Short house Jackets are loose also ant
itralght nil around , A pretty one of bnlzt
lannel In side plaits Is trimmed with i
iluster of black velvet ribbon , running
tround , beginning at the depth of n yoke
iml continuing around under the arms , cacti
land ending behind with a bow , which makes
> row of hews down the mlddlo of the back.
The high collar band Is circled with the
nmo ribbon , with bows behind , and bands
.ml bows are at the elbow. Other llannel
ackcts are double-breasted and plain , and
invu an applique on the edge of llannel , In
contrasting color , cut In n fanciful pat-
em , Thus , green on dark blue , dark vlo-
ct on rose. Hut such trimming Is difficult
Dr the amateur. In another style Is a Jacket
f chamois-colored cloth , trimmed with nnr-
ow white ribbon , The fronts nre open ,
, 'lth straight rovers all the way down , and
lie revers are striped across with the rib-
on , each ribbon ending In a tiny rosette ,
he same trimming covers the turn down
ollar and the lower part of the sleeves ,
mong the Jackets In silk-faced mollcton , an
ffectlvo one Is made of gray-blue , lined
iroughout with black silk , The collar Is
iced with the black , and the sleeve , made
i a loose puff to the elbow and ending In
rulllu. has the ruflle lined with bluck.
Is finished with blue ribbons.
CHILDREN'S DRESS.
Following the taste for long lines , chll-
ren of both sexes are wearing , as has been
ild In a former letter , blouses of extra
ngth , This entails for'the girls a skirt In
roportlon , and for the boys a sailor collar
i large that It looks like a roof. If knee
ousers are worn then so much of them
i covered by the blouse that they , llko the
klrt , have an air of being very short , and
hen long sailor trousers are worn they
re made less wide than ordinary , so as to
[ cover In appearances some of the length
nt off by the blouse. It goes without say-
ig that not all children are thus dressed ,
ut this Is a well defined style where the
: st Is vogue or commonplace.
As model of full dress for children may
D cited a costume being worn by the 6-
nr-old son of the countess of Sayvo. Sailor
ousers down to the heel of line black
rise ; blouse of white serge , with sailor
illar of red silk covered with Irish guipure
ce. Sailor knot of red silk. Manilla
raw hat with large rolling brim ana black
band. And another costume being worn by
thu little son ot the countess dc Pnnlsse-
Sassls. Short trousers of dark blue serge ,
nnd blouse of white alpaca , with blue silk
collar , on which arc stitched two bands o (
whlto silk near the edge ; sailor knot of
blt > silk ; hat like the first. The hnlr la
worn short. It Is to be remarked , however ,
tlmt some boys ot this age have the hair
In curls.
For girl's dress great use Is made of flax-
colored batiste , which has been found both
practical nnd cheap. The thicker qualities
are not transparent nnd so can be made
up over ordinary cotton linings. When :
elaborate dress Is wanted the thin linen Is
used to make a transparency over color. At
n full dress model for n 12-year-old girl may
be described a toilet being worn by the
daughter of the Countess dc In Landc. It
Is of flax-colored linen over blue silk. The
blue skirt Is gored and reaches nearly tc
the nnkle nnd the linen covers It smoothly
and Is quite untrlmmcd. The linen Is
pialtcd over the blouse. The sleeve Is close
and wrinkled , with n puff nt the top , like
an adult's ; blue sash tied behind ; white
breeder of It known , It the princess looks
kindly on his offering and cap bo aroused
to special Interest In the btcca. the puppy
represents that thnt particular type of dog
Is guaranteed an era of fashionable approval
In London society. >
In the Inst English dog * hJw ( this was
successfully demonstrated when1" ( he princess
benched a handsome new Rirssl.ln hound , a
Dorzol , nnd carried off qn 'armload of
prizes. The beautiful creature ! 'belonging ' to
the Imperial family of wolf hMun-ls , of which
the czar possesses the noblest' specimens ,
was sent the princess two yours nco by a
Russian dog fancier of notd rind since the
stntcly Alo.x , In his roURh. white nnd fnwn
colored coat , carried off first honors every
loyally fashionable woman In England has
purchased or bid for a Uorrnl uuppy.
As n matter of fact , three ftnll , slender
dogs are scarcely to bo valuedr except for
their beauty and quiet companionship , but
the princess apparently especially delights
In her Russian hound chiefly for his size
nnd gentleness , as. In nil her kennels , not
one lap dog nor one fierce specimen of the
canine race Is to bo found. The only little
fellow she ever owned was n bright eyed
Japanese spaniel , the breed from which all
our King Charles' and nicnhlm's come and
"Jnp , " as ho was called , was by her spe
cial order painted Into her portrait by
Liiko Fields. With this exception all her
doRM are Inrgc hardy outdoor pets. Sev
en magnificent collies alone nro counted
In her collection. Sandrlnshnni Dainty ,
nnd Newmarket Nicety , being among the
prize winners nnd her fnvorltcs. whllo four
great danes , two snowy and two tinted
Pomeranians , a couple of dignified Scottish
deer hounds , n whole troupe of smooth coated
nnd wire haired Ilnsset hounds , fox terriers.
Newfoundlands , n noble greyhound , two
Irish setters and a ponderous St. Uernnrd arc
/HSSPas
SOME OUTDOOn CRADLES.
leghorn hat bound with black velvet and
trimmed , with blue satin ribbon. The rib
bon Is twisted Into a rope and the rope
passes around the bottom of the crown and
again close to the top of the crown still
twisted , and Is made Into a bow of standIng -
Ing loops at one side.
A new Idea In the trimming of children's
gowns Is to make applique patterns with
thin sleazy ribbon or silk braid. The ribbon
Is drawn up with a thread on one edge
where It Is needed to form curves. As an
example of this work Is a blue veiling gown
with the blouse front covered with an irreg
ular spiral pattern in white ; also a brown
mixed wool with brown ribbon on the skirt
and jacket.
The hats worn all Bummer by little girls ,
of a straw crown and chllton runic for brim ,
have grown In size till they look somewhat
extravagant. A now Idea Is , a close bonnet
covering the cars and tying under the chin ,
an exact copy of the women's bonnets of
1810. I have seen one on a child of 5 In dark
blue trimmed In the outside- with long-
stemmed rosebuds. No bow and no other
trimming.
The fashion In halrdresslng for little girls
Is that which may be seen in the well known
picture by Velasquez ot the Infanta Mar
guerite. That Is to say , the hair Is parted
on the left side nnd some hairs are caught
together on the right side opposite the
among the Inhabitants of a ' 'row of little
artistic houses In Sandrlngham grounds ,
always pointed out to visitors''OB "Her High-
ness's village. "
The village , of course , Is the kennels ,
where every dog sits unVicr his own vine
and fig tree and lives In supreme luxury
while two accomplished trainers and vet-
erlnnrles have an eye to1' ' their health and
manners. At one end of nit'1 ' row ot canine
homes Is a neat little house used as an In
firmary , where Invalids are succored and
where many valuable little puppies take
their first peep nt the wftrld. '
A-3 often as twice or three times a day
the princess Is among her1 pets' , feeding , cod
dling , sympathizing , taking out for exercise
or photographing some special beauty , and
about the grounds of Sandrlngham , when
riding along the ccimtrj' tah'es or visiting
cottagers , there Is Invariably a dog at her
heels. She subscribes liberally to all the
dog hospitnls and homes , is the first pa
troness of the Ladles' Kennel association
and one of the few women competent to act
on a committee of Judges at a bench show.
Perhaps her especial pride as a breeder
of gcoil dogs Is felt for her noble family of
Pomeranians , not one of wliich but shows
every point of high birth. Her white ones
have all those rare signs of beauty and good
blood , deep dark eyes ana Ink black noses ,
while almost worth their weight In sliver
A FIGURED TAFFETA GOWN.
parting and tied with n small bow of colored
ribbon , The smallest bit answers , as It Is
not a bow that Is wanted to much as a
touch of color. The ends of the hair bang
loose. Girls up to 12 and even to 14 wear
this coiffure , which certainly has Us pi
quancy. ADA CONE.
THU I'AHIIIO.\\IUi : CAXI.VI3.
Sniiirt Woiiu-ii Who Arc ICn erl } ' Illd-
illnir for llorcol I'iiiilfN. |
One of the very most enthusiastic dog
lovers In all England Is her royal highness ,
the prlucens of Wales. The same amount of
money that her Imperial mother-in-law
spends on fat cattle and her husband de
votes to horses and his stables the princess
lays out on kennels , that are the Ilnest
owned by any woman In the United King
dom , and at present shelter a dozen varieties
of canine t > cauty.
Not a dog fancier or breeder In Europe
but knows of her Interest In these pets , her
knowledge of an animal's good points and
her splendidly appointed kennels , and at In
tervals she receives from some famous stud
a particularly handsome puppy , Naturally
the imall dog la sent as a gift , but thu
ore the orange , black and 'chocolate tinted
Spitz In her group , for they1 are as dllllcult
to find and raise as chlncllla poodles or
pure-blooded Dutch pugs : When In her
royal highness' kennels a family of puppies
arrives , orders Invariably ro forth that not
a single Infant must bo destroyed , and.
after making her own private selections
from the litter , the princess takes Infinite
pains In settling her tiny pVotegea lu secure
and comfortable homes , Tile puppies , when
large and strong enough to leave their
mothers , are carefully distributed among
friends and relatives of the royal family ,
after their births have been registered In a
big recording book. Occasionally a Sand-
rlngham puppy Is sent anrely over ecas ,
oven as far as Russia and Greece and always -
ways with a moving appeal from the gentle
donator that great favor will bo shown the
llttlo animal for her sake.
Si K \ JUAl7l7uH. .
Varh-tlt-M of liifiuil Crllm Aniirovcil Of
! ) > I Mfillcul I'rofL-Hnloii ,
The strictly hygienic Infant of the future
Is In danger of never experiencing the prob
ably Injurious delights best descrlbablc- the
old lullaby ns "Rock-n-byo Baby. " A mnn-
\ifacturcr ot Infants' beds asserted thnt med
leal science hss recently discovered germs
of nervous prostration In the Innocent look
ing cradle rockers and relegated the young
sters to beds that nre cribs , or to cradles
that do not swing. "
"Tho fact Is , " he explained almost regret
fully , "we only build rocking cradles today
to order , and when they nro usually very
small wooden ones , made almost exactly on
the pattern of the one Baby White used ,
when coming over on the Mayflower.
"Perhaps too , It Isn't Just fair to tell you ,
but I hnvo discovered that the deslro for
these quaint llttlo beds Is always exhibited
by young mothers , who hnvo a pretty daintily
slippered foot to show. To the minutest
detnll wo build these cradles after the May
flower pattern and turn out such exact copies
of the nnttqiio model that not n few of our
own make have satisfactorily passed for
"tho crndle my dear old great-grand-mamma
was rocked In. don't you know. "
However , n majority of modern mothers
arc firm In their determination to raise the
nngcl of the household on sternly sensible
lines , nnd explain to me thnt they wnnt
something that stands as firm as n rock , nnd
If Its a first child the price of the cradle
Isn't a matter ot consideration. A few ,
Just a few , aesthetic Indies buy or order
delicately carved white wood or Btalncd
oak beds , set between four slender pillars
with n tester of silk , but the popular bcd'ls
n boat-shaped cradle , of metal , that docs
not swlnc-
METAL CR111S.
Enameled Iron nnd hrnss nro the ma
terials , more or less dccorntcly worked , and
though the doctors do talk about germ
traps , I never found the maternal heart
thnt could resist mnsscs of Mlk nnd lace
draperies. The very up-to-date berceuse of
white Iron , trimmed with brass and set !
a frame that folds up , to be handily ca
rlcd or packed , Is usually hung with was
silk , while the two little mattresses nro i
mndo that In an hour they can be tunic
Inside out , the cover nnd contents washt
or thoroughly disinfected nnd put hue
again , jmre nnd fresh as new.
This , of course , Is n vnst Improvement c
anything used before , and now thnt tt
physicians have taken even cradles undc
their supervision we make one mnttres
hard and another rather tightly stuffc
with down. For the first few months , whll
the child's bones are soft and the flcs
very tender , the plump down bed In 11
linen tick Is used , but by medical advlco
baby must as soon as possible sleep on
hard springy layer of the Ilnest hair.
This Is supposed to keep the small bed
cool , and contribute to a straight spine , an
both these mattresses He on n bottom <
fine-woven wire , but no nmount of serlon
talk of ventilation and microbes has Ir
duccd mothers to do away with the canop
cribs , and the average woman likes to st
lect her child's bed untrlmmcd and the
order her decorations.
POPPY AND TRAVELING BEDS.
The very smart baby , who takes his nai
In n cradle of the most exquisite bras
work , slumbers under a huge poppy flowe :
made all of silk and suspended over hi
head by a stem springing from the bacl
The stem Is enameled to resemble that c
the natural flower , and the pink or yello'
poppy Is quite the size of n small sunshadi
with the calyx nnd streamers all carcfull
copied In green and yellow.
Right inside the head of these crndles
thermometer fits Into a slot , and the leg
on which It stands have their castors en
cased In rubber. Now and then we ho
arders for traveling baby beds , woven c
wire and so arranged as to fold up tha
bed , stand , canopy nnd mattresses will al
fit Into the top of an ordinary trunk , o
compress Into n medium-sized hand parcel
The mattresses are filled with air , and th
under gear Is a nice device llko the spring
of the carriage.
Mothers of moderate * means always wlscl ;
buy pretty baby beds of willow work , an <
this season many children of the hlghcs
degree have lain In baskets , woven of dell
cate wyths and swc t hay , of Indian grasse
nnd reeds , colored and worked by the In
dlans , who have found In this a market t
replace the ruined trade In hand boskete
Light us they nre , these grnss nnd reci
beds are strong enough nnd very plctur
esque , but the physicians , who have takci
away our business In rocking cradles , hav
done ono good turn.
OUT DOOR CRADLES.
No longer Is a inotheor nursemaid al
lowed to cosset or dandle a child , put It ti
sleep In their arms or hold It longer thai
la absolutely necessary. Weak spines
bowed legs nnd bad tempera are to a grea
extent avoided by keeping the child In i
day cradle. These are made of canvas , am
the beat ono Is the Hlndooatanee hammock
of white duck , swung between two woodci
frames. This pretty day cradle can be se
up anywhere , out In the garden shade , 01
the veranda corner or In the hallway nn <
tipped In the slinging to eult any posturi
the baby seems to prefer ,
From colored silks or flax threads we d <
make small Imitations of the regulatloi
grown folks' hammock , and hero Is n child' :
beach cradle , n square white canvas box 01
four legs and the bottom of the bo :
stretched so taut thnt It forms a cool cas ;
mattresti without further additions , A boo )
of wood holds a canvas hood over one cm
If shade Is needed , and in a trlco all thli
can be folded up and carried off as tasll ;
as a camp chair.
II HI'UIIMOA.V WO SI 13 .V.
Hfo | > i > of Uic MoVfinfill Ulrrcd-il li ]
tlit * .Vntloniil Coiuiiilliff ,
CHICAGO , Aug. St. To the Editor of Tin
Bee : You may like to know what we of the
Woman's Republican League of the United
States are doing In this campaign. Oui
president , Mrs. J , Ellen Foster , has been
appointed by the national republican com
mittee to take charge of the work of or
ganization among women. No one Is more
capable. In such an appointment Chairman
Hanna has given another evidence of his
political sagacity. This action of the na
tional committee attests the fact that the
Q. O. P. Is not unmindful of woman as a
Factor In politics. This action , too , on the
part of the national republican committee ,
Is further testimony of the honesty of the
party when they. In the national convention
ti St , Louis , adopted the plank , "Tho re
publican party Is mindful of the rights and
Interests of women , protection of American
Industries , equal opportunities , equal pay
'or equal work and protection to the home.
SVo favor the admission ot women to wider
upheres of usefulness and welcome their
co operation In rescuing the country from
Jemocratlo and populist mismanagement
and misrule. "
The adoption of this plank was no small
compliment to , the women of the republican
party , Every woman , la fact , iuy take
courage from this polntcJ recognition c
woman's worth ,
The national tommlttre authorized Mri
Foster lo open headquarters nt the Aud
torlum annex. From this now celebrate
center of nrtlvlty" hp U conducting ht
correspondence end directing the organize
tlon of republican leagues , found monc
clubs , McKlnlcy nnd Hobnrt clubs , nn
keeping herself In touch with thc < work nn
speech of all women , ami especially wome
In politics. The lltorature sent from tli
woman's headquarters 's mailed t the gel
ernl nulling dcpnrtnunt of the imtloni
committee , supervised by n woman undc
the direction of the mnnager of thnt di
partment. Cnptaln Thomas W. MoKoe.
In the states where women vote th
usual cnmpnlgn methods will be observct
In other stntee the work of organlzln
clubs where women can come togctlior an
Inform themselves , and help others to hi
I'omo Informed on the great Usucs now b <
fore the pcoplo will be closely ptirsuci
Mrn. Faster Is everywhere nml upon ever
ono urging the Importance ot Influencln
first voters with the Importance of begli
nlng right , ot Influencing each ono to tnl <
lilt , place in the ranks of the nation" * di
fenders.
It Is Interesting lo note the nrtlvlty <
the women III Illinois. They may vote < !
school questions and for university trustee
At once after acquiring this privilege tl
republican women set themselves to 01
gatilzc for the campaign of two years ngi
nnd did good work. They are organized li
congresslounl districts under the dlrectlc
of n stnte committee , nnd , of course , Illluo
women know how lo get results from n
organization. This year the orgntilzatioi
Mrs. J. II. Phattuck. chairman. IIHE hcai
quarters nt the Grent Northern hotel , nn
arc working ns hard ns two years ago. I
New York , where women have so effective !
proven their power In the overthrow i
Tammany , there are several leagues. In tl
metropolis Is Helen Vnrwlck Iloswcll , tl
national treasurer of the league , n tapab
nnd rising young woman , every way fitted i
serve with distinction In n cause to whlc
she brings HO much enthusiasm.
Mrs. Foster Is such n grent worker , (
resourceful ns n manager , tlmt women ever ;
where should feel the compliment pal
them through her , by her al.iolnttncnt | i
this work. She desires to aid all n
publican women , and It. particularly di
slrous to bo of Assistance In every state wlu'i
women of her party ure active. PI
answers nil Inquiries pent In nnd Is un.xlov
to hear from the' workerU us well ns of r <
suits.
The continuous work of this woman pel
tlclan nnd orntor brings Inrgo results i
the polls , n tul everywhere Impetus t
woman's work In the republican pnrty. SI
Intely spoke In Valparaiso. Ind. , In the ope
to an Immense assembly , nnd nt Hoselnm
Chicago , under the nusplc.cs of the Woman
Republican club ot the Thirty-fourth wan
The last named audience was largely con
posed of wage-earners from Iloscland , KIM
slngton and Pullman. They were given n
address not only Instructive to nil voter
but ono thoroughly cnjoynble , nnd whlc
was listened to with Intense Interest. SI
spoke for sound currency , saying thnt dli
honesty , In our national life would woi
Iteslf out In the life of the Individual. SI
defined n national standard In cltlzcnshl
nnd finance. She drew no lines hetwec
men nnd women ns citizens. She spoke ft
nil nnd to nil , and right here , I may n
mark , lies the Influence of this womni
She feels no need for pleading , sees I
cause for hesitancy. There Is a future ft
which we nre all endeavoring to build beai
ttfully and well. She speaks to men an
women of the needs of the times , c
woman's Influence and man's power an
holds aloft n high standard for their n
tnlnment. As n speaker Mrs. Foster has l
superior. She has small use for scntlmen
being rather argumentative than assertlv
as are most women In their public utte
anccs , thus showing her legal train tin
She 1ms grent clenrness nnd In cogency
really superb.
ALICE ROSSETER WILLARD.
Alpaca retains Its popularity for sumnu
riding.
Skirts are changing considerably , both I
the manner ot making and In the dlmci
sinus.
A pretty morning dress of blue and whll
striped linen do sole has three bias plplnt
of the stripe on the skirt.
White muslin Is far prettier lined with flr
white organdy than with silk , for It has
much more transparent and fluffy appcn :
ance.
In London shirt waists of fine cloth I
pretty monochromes or French flannel I
fancy stripes and checks are finished wit
linen collars and cuffs.
Loosely draped sashes are charming wit
muslin gowns on very slight figures fc
youthful wearers , and are now almost
necessity for a complete toilet.
The daintiest summer bolero Jackets ar
turned back with white embroidery or ham
some appliques cut from net-top Russia
laces nnd Inld on ecru muslin or linen Inw
of exquisite texture.
Yokes of velvet or lustrous silk laid I
deep tucks across the chest from shoulde
to shoulder nro n feature of fall fashions I
waists , and In some Instances the forean
ot the sleeves matches the yoke material.
Sklrtn made of silk or woollen fabric nr
sca.cely ever lined now , but If necessary ar
mounted on a foundation skirt cut much th
same , though not quite so full , as the out
side skirt , and Joined to It only at th
belt.
belt.A new Invention called the zouave skirl
has Just shown Itself. It has a slmpl
device by which bloomers can be at one
changed Intern divided skirt when required
and so the rider Is always ready for on ;
emergency.
Belts and sashes are all-Important feature
of costumes. Closely folded belts as deep a
n corselet are very graceful and must fl
the wearer llko a glove. When made of sill
or satin such a belt can bo worn with an ;
gown.
A pretty thin cycling suit can bo made o
heavy linen with pique facing to the coa
and worn with n colored skirt. For Joni
rides a very useful suit Is a tweed sltlrt , i
thin flannel shirt and n Norfolk Jacket mad
with n yoke.
Ono of the most fashionable bodices nov
worn Is the short bolero or zouave Jacket , o
which there arc many types. Ono made o
embroidered grass linen , edged with a tin ;
Heating of cream silk muslin , Is n delight
ul finish to a light silk or muslin gown.
A white pique costume made In the fashloi
has a largo sailor collar of ecru linen em
troldered In whlto and edged with a tlnj
ace-edged frill of linen , which gives i
quaint effect to the Jacket , that opens over i
ilouso front of the linen laid In three cm
iroidered box pleats.
As the fall season advances velvet rlbboi
n black and pretty autumn follago colon
vlll be In great use both with dressmaker )
and milliners. Every width manufacturer
will be utilized and the ribbon will decoratr
'owiin and waist's both for day and cvenliu
wear.
Among the novelties In evening Blecvei
trn those of Victoria silk trimmed , wltl
hlffon frills. The lower portion Hares out Ir
x gauntlet cuff , Is then tight fitting to th <
irmhole , and has a puff at the top so draper
n the center that It reveals the entlro uppei
tortlon of the coat Bleevo.
A sleeve with a close forearm has a wrls
rill of accordion pleated rnousselnlne ill
ole and Is topped off at the shoulder with c
iuff daintily finished with many rows of fini
' "rcnch shirring In 1830 style. The puff h
birred again above the elbow , but UK
birring Is turned under , with no frill led
IB a finish ,
A stylish gown for early autumn wear U
orined of sheer grass linen , made up ovei
erlse satin ribbons , Including shoulder bowt
nd a belt with many loops and ends. The
ull bodice has five half-Inch tucks on either
Ide below a pointed yoke of embroidered
Inen finished with a twist of the ribbon
ndlng on either side of the yoke In a small
osetto.
The majority of the most fashionable enr
ages are cither seamless and drawn over
love-fitting linings or merely fitted with
Idc forms , with the Immediate front ami
ock uhlrred or pirated. It Is of less conne-
ucnce , however , than formerly how per-
ectly they are adjusted after the lining has
ten titled , slncu the actual bodice Is now
icrely a foundation for elaborate decoration ,
rider which It Is nearly hidden from sight.
In Jacket shapes for the autumn both
DOSO and fitted forma will be favored. The
ollars will be high ttandlng bands linluhed
, -ltli ruffs , falling frills , tabs , Vandyke
olnts , wing piece , crenelated bands of
blvet nnd other fancy shapes formed and
ccoratcd to conform with the rest of ( ho
oat. The sleeves an a rule are of the modi-
ed mutton-let' shape , finished cither with
flare nl the wrist or tinned back with n. deep
machine studied cuff.
I'ciiiliilniofr * .
Ex-Quren Lllluokelanl hss been baptltreT
and confirmed by the Anglican bishop of
Honolulu ,
Mine. Nordlen has consented to take tha
purl of Isolde In Jean do Roszkp's "Tristan , "
In n tourr of this country for next season.
Miss Cecelia Iloatu of Philadelphia an < t
Miss Kate Carl of IxxiUlana , whoso work In
the Champs do Mars salon was recently
admired , have been elected associate mem
bers of the Champs dc Mars society.
The Empress Eugenie recently forwarded
$500 toward n fund being raised for the
erection ot n hospital nt Aldershot , Eng
land. The foundation stone was recently
Inld by the duchess of CannaURUt.
Two of the three Hatlgnrtcn prizes for
pictures recently exhibited nt the Nntlonnf
Academy of Design ot Xe\\ York City were
won by women. Mary Urcwuter Hazeltlno
took the first prize nnd Louise Cox the third.
Mrs. Humphrey Ward , although hi III-
hrnlth , Is busily engaged upon her new book
nnd Is nlso supervising the ntTnlrs of 1'nl-
vrrslty hall , which linn ; ust changed Its
name * to I'nssmoro Kdwards Hall and will
i-oon bo established In n new building.
Mlsr Eleanor Ormerod nnd her sister. Miss
0. 13. Ormerod , have achieved the greatest
success In entomology , nnd have Just been
elected honorary members of the Hath nnd
West of England Society of Entomologists ,
In recognition of their services to agricul
ture.
Miss Sarah Kennedy of New York Is n
cosmopolitan of many allegiances. She was
born In Ireland , became a citizen of Franco
under the empirennd later under the re
public , nnd now she wants to be naturalized :
In th < United States to round out her col
lection.
A unique anniversary was celebrated In
Newport , N. H. , the other day. Itns the
ninety-sixth anniversary of the birth of twin
sisters , Mrs. Mary llrozco nnd Mrs. Mary
West. Both sisters are active nnd In good
hrnlth. Their fnthcr llvcil to bo 1)2 ) nml
their mother to OS.
Mrs. Cresswcll Peelo Is one of the- most
philanthropic of English women , being ono
of the foremost movers In the Society for thn
Prevention of Cruelty to Children. She has
been most energetic In the success of n ,
mammoth bazaar which wna held at her
palatial home nt Shropshire for the benefit
of the society.
Miss Ctnrn Parrlsh of Paris , III. , sailed
from San Francisco August 26 for the
Hawaiian Islands and Japan. At the same
time' another young woman started from
the c\nst , both beginning the circuit of the
world as missionaries under the direction ot
the World's Women's Christian Temperance
union. '
Miss Jane Harrison , the first woman.
LL.D. , who was recently rejected , on the
basis of her BOX , by the Society of Arch
aeological Professors In London , has been
elected n member of the Archaeological
Society of Berlin. This Berlin society has
been in the past avowedly against the ad
mission of women members , therefore this
Is n great honor.
Two prominent women , who are Joint
luithorK , Miss Jestle Boucherett nnd Mlsa
Helen Blackburn , hnvc written n book on ,
"Tho Condition of Working Women nnd tho'
Factory Acts. " It deals with questions ofj
great importance and will be of Interest to
the women of the social science department
of civic leagues and women's clubs.
Miss Clara Williams , who pursued her
musical studies for years In this country ,
principally In Chicago , bus Just been awarded ]
what Is called the Pnrepa-Rosa gold medal 1
nt the Royal Academy of Muslo In London.
Since the World's fair she has carried her
musical studies forward In England , through
the advice of Hon. John Thomas , the harpist
of the queen , who recognized her talent' il
when he heard her sing at Chicago.
Mrs. Kemp Welch bids fair to be the sect
end Rosa Bonhcur. She pursued the study
of painting animals In a. systematic way ,
gaining her knowledge of horses under tha
Instruction of n well known veterinary sur
geon. She copied all the animal pictures oC
Prof. Davlcs * study at Bournemouth , after
ward taking a course In an art school at
Bushcy , and she Is tsdny regarded ns one of
the best pnlntcrs of the horse this century
hns seen. Her most fnmous piece , "A Study
In Horses , " Is sought for exhibition through
out the world.
The Baroness do Rothschild of London Is1
deeply Interested In what Is known as the
largest charitable school In the world , thcrej
being 100 teachers and 3,500 scholars. Most
of the pupils arc Russian Jews. The baroness
and her husband not only give the tuition ;
but breakfast Is furnished to nil who need
It nnd two suits of clothes nnd two pairs oC
shoes per year to such ns are In need. There *
Is a savings bank In connection with the
school where pupils receive 10 per cent In
terest on deposits up to $50. The school was )
founded fifty-five years ago by the Roths ?
chillis and has always been under their
care.
Wine ! Drink Cook's Extra Dry Champagne ,
Wine ! Pure Juice naturally fermented. '
Wine ! Of forty years' record. Try It.
AN inn.vi , .
I'lillnnJer Johnson.
Each to his fnncy. Some there bo who lova
the nrlnm'd glare .
Of gaslight as It lingers o'er n. ball room
fuvorlte'B bnlr ,
The silken rnurrnurlngs thnt sound whcroi
beauty lightly glldc-H ,
And some there be who love to cross thq
world with rmirtlnl ntrlden.
Hut compliments are sorry dross ; n mnllo
IB oft ti miiHk ,
And life's a long , hnrd Journey where *
deceit's too much to ask.
So give me , now and then , a nook along ;
the weary plko
With tlmu enough to sit and talk with )
fellows that 1 like.
It matters not the topic nor the numbers.
Two or three
With HctiBn enough for friendship and tha
wit to disagree ,
Where comfortable perfumes float ncrosa
the atmosphere
Such are the folk who rightly learn tha
Hecret of good cheer.
Ah , Buroly in the future sphere where mnn.
IB promised bliss
Wo need not sacrifice the Joys that wo
have known In this ,
For , though wn'vo glittering crowns to
wear and golden harps to Hfrlko.
We'll Btlll find time to sit and talk wlthj
fellows that wo like.
Yale's
Skin
Food
Removes wrinkles nnd all tnineu of nge.
It feeds through the porr-a and builds up
ho fatty membranes und wasted tissues ,
lourlslicH the shriveled and Hhrunken nkln ,
ones and Invigorates the nerves and mum
iles , enriches the Impoverished blood ves
lels and supplies youth und uhiHtlclty to
hu action of thu xkln. It's perfect.
llowaro of substitutes und counterfeits ,
fold's Original Hkln Food , price Jl.Kl and
300. At ull drug stores.
Ouldo to lieuiity mulled free. Write fov
me.
me.MMB. . M. YAI.K. Hcultli and Complexion
il.L'clulUI. . Vulo 'fttinplu ul Ueuuty , JtB matt
itrtel , Clilcuju.
