TITE Cm AHA BATLY BEE : ATTOUST 20 , 1800. It
jsfi i & weflllfi9ertlifsflliWe ? / ' / 'i ' ) | [ / ,0 ? ,
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IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. li-
VM.\J
ilN mill I'niK-li-N ItclKiiliii ? In ( In-
KiiHlilotuilileVnrlilt
IBW YOIIK , Aug. 20. At tills period of
ne > nBon little mny lie expected In the way
now fashions , It Is too early for autumn
and too late for summer ones , RO
aclthcr the dressmaking establishments
he shops have anything novel to show ,
cw York , too , as fnr ns the fashionable
Id h concerned , In still deserted , the
tn bcjmj filed with out-of-town and
folk , nnd In the way of elrrss prc-
thnt democratic look thnt ROCS with
tnll of summer. The shirtwaist and
In skirt of duck , scree or linen , Is par
cllcnco the costume of the moment , but
and there , driving In the park , or sit-
| llN YELLOW SILK MUSLIN AND
VIOLINE VELVET.
In BoniQ smart eating place , will bo
n a dressier frock , a damaged summer
art butterfly , with Its tumbled gauzes and
IB , that has wandered back to town ,
tli their attendant tulle-trimmed hats and
c fluttering ribbons , there Is a world
pathos about these faded summer gowns ,
lieu the grasshopper they have danced their
1st dance and arc here to tell us that the
Touts of summer are dying and that the
I'll ' winds of autumn are coming.
I'llcqulescat In pace ! " olio would be
lased to say and SRC them laid away
1 lavcndar as faded souvenirs of a brll-
111 seasonr but In these troublous times
cannot afford always to bo sentimental ,
| l there arc other uses for the pause sum-
frock ,
fhoso who have old materials that may
utilized for fancy bodices , will doubt-
i i bo glad to hear that plain black skirts
I FOB STREET WEAR.
odd bodies will bo as much worn this
Irlth
utumu as over.
The combination has proven too practl-
and effective to bu done away with , and
etwccn Reasons , before other modes have
Sal themselves , there Is nothing safer
r moro economical to fall back upon ,
On the cool days that have appeared hero
nd theru through August many taffeta silk
ilrtwalsts liavo been seen In the streets ,
orn usually with plain black serge skirts
nd by the smartest women. The shops are
iso continually showing fresh supplies of
ion ] , which would Indicate the probability
: their being worn straight up to winter ,
Only plain taffetas are used , and the colors
ro the same strange purples , blues , and
- *
I
n
Fiauunn SILK.
Ireens that appeared at the beginning of tuu
eason.
TAFFETA WAISTS ,
lln design the taffeta shirt waists copy
l-actly the cotton affairs. Thcro Is the
[ imo yoke at the back and moderately full
ont with one stud plait , smallish bishop
oevca , straight and square cuffs. At th
Ick , with a narrow bow tlo , uu adjustable
Veu collar U wpru , Cither * turned down
or Elnnil-np shape with bent points at tin
front.
On n trim figure , belted neatly and will
properly simple accessories , these shir
waists arc Very fetching. Some have a half
fitted lining , but only the yokes of otheri
are- lined , and so simple are they made
that , with a pattern , any woman who knowi
how to handle her needle at all clcvcrlj
may fashion them at homo.
Kor dressier bodices , for evening housi
nnd carriage use a few fresh breadths fron
an old summer gown will do wondcri
toward helping out a slim autumn ward
robe. It Is not necessary to have stuf
enough for the entire bodice , as lace , silk
gaii7o and velvet may all appear In oni
corsage , and with the deep girdles now
being worn many n short length may b <
hidden at the waist In a cunning way tin
world little dreams of.
In I'nrls this summer , deep celnturcs o
nil sorts have been the rage , whether foi
short bodices or for those with basques
Sometimes the belt was In the shape of i
wldo velvet bias that met slanting at tin
left side and fastened perhaps with a Strasi
hucklo or n great grasshopper how. Agnti
several rows of narrow velvet ribbon oi
gilt braid , would form the wide colnturo , o
an airy gown would have a deep bell o
silk elastic the same shade as the costume
or else one sewn thick with spangles erich
rich with embroidery.
These wldo girdle effects will doubtlcs !
be used for many of the new autumn am
winter bodices. Some of the late summci
gowns worn hero by ultra-fashionables havi
already shown ilium , and on slight flgurci
they proved very becoming. For bodlcci
of made-over materials they will be fount
Invaluable , as besides eking out a shortncs :
of stuff they provide excuse for the stroni
contrast In color a once used material re
cHi Ires.
SILK MUSLIN EVENING DHESS.
One of the prettiest In the groups o
bodices Illustrated gives an Idea of wha
may be done with an old silk muslin cvrn
Ing dress. Muslin In several other tint !
may combine with the same shade of velvet
but In this Instance n tender corn yellow li
blended with a rich vlollne. The bodlci
of the yellow muslin is laid In fine plalti
and hung In a seamless blouse over a lln
Ing of vlollno silk , which gives violet shad
Ings to the plaited outside. The velvet Ii
used for a clashed blouse effect over thi
kilted muslin , the cutting out of the nccl
giving a full lifted look to the chest , am
n long , slender point running down to tin
waist , back and front. Increasing Its small
ness. Sleeves , close coat affairs of the vlo
line silk , covered with bhlrrcd muslin nm
finished at the shoulder with two klltei
frills of the same. The folded girdle Is o
the velvet and at the throat , Instead of tin
ribbon stock so long seen , a narrow vlollni
velvet plaiting finishes the top of the tal
neck band , which is covered with the folde <
mousscllnc.
The sleeve bottoms , slashed In scallop a
the outside , come low over the hand In tin
present approved fashion. They are nls <
edged with a narrow velvet quilling.
Those little quillings are made of velvel
on the bias , doubled and then side or bo :
plaited. Lately they ha\e been the nccl
finish to several handsome Imported gowni
seen , and fashion authorities predict thai
In the winter they will entirely take the
place of the ribbon stocks. Like the wide
girdles the velvet neck quillings have the
merit of novelty , but one trusts will staj
with us Just a little longer. And even II
popular favor has vulgarized narrow bclu
it Is better In many cases to have the walsl
look small If a shade behind the times
though strictly up to < ! ate and thick. N'esl
co pass.
So take the hint , and If you have a big
wnist stick to a narrow belt for your now
bodices.
GLACE SILK WITH TURKISH JACKET.
Glace silk , changeable or striped , Is an
excellent combination material for the model
with the Turkish Jacket , and which is an
excellent evening design for a young lady.
Say the silk is white , with opUlne shadlngs ,
blue , green or pink , and showing no pattern.
If for strictly evening use the jacket maybe
bo one of the Imported oriental affairs , but
It will be just as effective , less expensive ,
and If anything , In better taste , If made
at velvet and appllqued with guipure.
Since It Is to bo so covered up the velvet
used could bo even defaced and not show
It , and If the pattern Is carefully chosen
the lace might be of a moat Inexpensive
quality. Short , loose jacket effects of all
sorts have lately given tlash to some of the
choicest imported gowns and nowheio could
bo found a freak of fashion that lenfls Itself
better to bodices of scanty or made-over
materials. With sleeves and basques of
striped or figured silk there could be a short
square bolero , hung In box plaits from the
shoulders , of soft plain silk or satin. Heavy
lace In black or white , separate guipure
applications , or narrow thuel braids , arc
handsome additions to the bolero , arid may
appear In trim collar effects tml smait little
rovers. These last , however , must bo very
small Indeed for the proper effect , as the
old stiff , wide-shouldered look Is giving way
to lines with drooping tendencies.
Last , a corsage on this order may have a
wldo belt of dark velvet and an entlro front
of white tucked silk muslin ; and lo ! out of
thcso "many pieces" realizes something that
street fashion not only put her stamp upon ,
but that Is considered very cocky Indeed ,
CORSAGES FOR MAID OR MATRON.
For cither maid or young matron a be
coming little corsage Is demonstrated In
pale blue shot silk and blue silk muslin.
The bodlco IH of the muslin , In fine kilts ,
and overhung back and front with an ec
centric blouse effect of the silk with a fin
ish of narrow black lace. Insertions of this
also show In the sleeves , which are made
In three puffs .at the shoulder and go In
close cuffs ! o the elbnw , where they are
finished with ribbon u , .sts.
The same ribbon , a black and white striped
design In this Instance , Is used for belt and
stock.
Made In this way black-dotted Swiss and
yellow Valenciennes lace would be most
effective over a llk lining in a rich color.
For the yoke blouse and sleeves , a figured
silk In the tones of the linings and the
same black and white ribbon finishings.
The fourth dressy bodice Is of butter
white tambour muslin over stem green silk.
Ribbons pale green , patterned with raised
white ( lowers. This model Is especially
suited to slight , youthful figures , and slop
ing shoulders , and the materials here em
ployed are sufficiently elegant for almost
uiy evening occasion. Lens expensive materials -
rials for the same design could be white or
roloied mulls , chiffon or ellk muslin ; If
foulard or plain surah are liked , they could
iUo be used , and the some model servo for
l > rnctlcal wear.
For evening bodices the possibilities of a
fichu drapery are endless. Though chronicled
as no longer the thing , all summer many
of the smartest dance frocks have shown
fichu kerchief effects In soft laces and mus
lins , that are not only channlngly becoming
to young cheeks , but seem to soften old
ones. Several jeweled buttons of uncom
mon beauty also Bonn-times appear on the
low cut corsage , catching the lace down
Ilko a ical gem , holding up a billow of
the Blcevo or keeping a little belt tight
together. For very young ladles , however ,
these buttons are not considered In ex-
jctly good taste , though they come under
the head of legitimate fasteners.
, Sleeves are growing every day smaller and
there Is no probability that they will stop
lolng It for the next six months. Those
it all of the latest gowns have shewn a lean
ing toward the quaint old time models
that wrinkled over the arms Ilko a glove
und half covered the hand. At the shoul-
lor the breadth that one Is not yet quite
willing to do away with Is made commonly
Dy on extra trimming , small puffs , cap
[ rllla ami draperies of all descriptions.
NINA FITCH.
WOMIS.V AMIVATOIIUS. .
IVry Seldom thnt the Tito flet oil
Well Toirrtlirr.
Women and watches seldom get on well
ogether. Charles Dudley Warner , dlscuts-
ng thli subject In the current Harper's ,
loubU if a flue watch bus those feminine
which make women no attractive.
The watch Is nothing If It Is not methodical
and regular. It Is exasperated by fitful
and jerky treatment. And this quality of
steadfastness makes It not loved of women
as men love It. They like It as an orna
ment , as a decoration , like the ring and
the brooch , and It Is sometimes a con
venience' In order to tell them about ( not
exactly ) what time It Is. Women do not ,
as a rule , except In cases of entlro eman
cipation , care what time It Is exactly. They
can go without n watch with no sense of
Incompleteness In their lives , whereas a
man feels lost without his faithful time
keeper. This relation of woman to the
watch. Mr. Warner observes , needs to be
seriously considered tor the light It may
throw not only upon the differentiation of
the sexes , but upon their adaptation for
keeping the world going In Its various
functions. It Is possible that there Is a kind
The news of the snub had Just begun to be
bruited when the Countess do MgAtlJti. who
had been a guest at nearly all thte Wesldcn-
tlnl house parties , begged n private Inter
view with Louis Napoleon , and. gently In
formed him that his attcntlo il"b ( her
daughter were beginning to pxettd Mtmmont
and she had better leave Paris. . ' . | 'TMs was
at St. Cloud , where mother an Daughter
were both staying. , . ,
The prince asked the countess ( fa thrry one
day , as by the motrow ho mlgnt'HaVc some
thing of Interest to communicate ! 'to her.
Ho employed those twenty-four Ji6urs In
acquainting his ministers with W decision
to marry the beautiful Mile. HuRcWfc. The
news fell upon them Ilko n bombshell , nnd
all of them Implored the prince 'not to con
tract the mesalliance. Hut NapfiTctftn was
not to be dissuaded , and the marriage fol
lowed soon after.
The Countess do Montljo shared the tri
umphs of her daughter as well as many of
her Unfortunate years of exile , and those
who knew her say of her that even late In
life she preserved much of the beauty for
which she was famed when As the Scottish
country girl she married the Spanish gran
dee. _ _ _ .
M'Jtt"VOMHX IX Kll.AM'12.
r 1 I 'MM ll 'lil Arc Not It
liy Their MaliKrlriiilo. .
The French papers are having n lot of fun
with the new women. An assembly of them ,
called the "Solidarity Group , " has been
holding meetings In Paris , and one of the
DRESSY FALL BODICES.
of touchstone which can be applied. For In
stance. If a woman finds that she has tli
same feeling toward a watch that a mai
has. Is she not justified in concluding tha
she has the qualities needed for success li
what arc still called masculine occupations
And In trying to bring about the reforn
should not the first effort be to put the EC :
Into proper relations with the watch ? .
MOTIII3II OV AX EMIMUCSS.
The UciiiurKalilf Career of the Count
I-HS < ! < Moiitiju.
The history of the Countess do Montljo
ex-Empreis Eugenie's mother , Is as roman
tic as thnt of her daughter Is sad. Is I :
not so generally known as not to be o
Interest at any time , says a writer In UK
St. Louis Republic. The Countess di
Montljo was the daughter of an Engllsl
consul at Malaga , whoso name was Kirk
Patrick. Thomas Klrkpatrlck , his father
owned a small property , called "Knock , '
In Dumfriesshire. The consul's daughter
Maria , was a remarkably beautiful girl , one
attracted the attention of a Spanlsl
grandee , the youngest son of the greal
house of Montljo.
The marriage of the daughter of a Scot
tlsh merchant with the son of so noble t
house was considered a mesalliance , ant
King Ferdinand of Spain refused consent U
the union. The young man was obstinate
nnd the Klrkpntrlcks eager , and they civ
gaged Charles Klrkpatrlck Sharpe , the notci' '
English wit , to prepare for his fall
countrywoman a family tree. In which the
dagger dripping with the heart's blood o !
"the red Comyn" made a conspicuous fig'
ure.
When this pedigree , beautifully drawn up
was sent to Ferdinand VII , he acquiesced
exclaiming :
"Oh , by all means , let the son of Montijc
marry the daughter of Flngal. "
The pair was married , but the Spanlsli
don soon tired of his beautiful wife , nnd
they separated long before his death. Wltli
her two daughters the countess then trav
eled from country to country , and spenl
some years In London , where she lived In
retirement. Upon leaving London , whlcli
she found too expensive , she returned tc
Spain and resided for some time In Seville ,
In 1843 she transferred herself and her
daughters to Purls , anil some documents
found at the prefecture of police under the
commune brought to light the following
queer notes about her :
"There Is staying at No. 45 Rue St. An-
tolue , In a rather shabby apartment on the
third floor , a Mme. de Montljo , who pro-
fefcses to bo the wife of a Spanish grandee ,
Her style of living Is modest and she re
ceives no visits from ladles , but three or
four times a week a number of gentlemen ,
principally foreigners , come and spend the
evening with her and play cards. It Is
presumable that they arc attracted as much
by the beauty of Mme , de Montljo's daugh
ters as by the wish to gamble. "
On the margin of this note the prefect
of that time had written :
"Find out whether Mine. Montljo Is really
the wlfo of a Spanish nobleman. " On a
paper appended to the above Is this brief
statement : "Mme. do Montljo Is really what
she asserts she Is , but the couple were vir
tually divorced three years after marriage
and the countess professes to live on her
jointure of 10,000 francs a year. " The word
"professes" was underlined in both quota
tions , and it Is evident that the lady de
rived the larger share of her Income from
the maintenance of one of those private
gambling salons which have at all times
been common to Paris.
Her two daughters were really lovely to
an astonishing degree , The elder married
the duke of Alba , and , thanks to his rank
and wealth , the position of the Montljos
was soon very different from what It had
been before the marriage. She lived sump
tuously for a time In her son-in-law's house
in Madrid , and when she returned to Paris
Bet up an elegant establishment In the
Champs ElyEees. To get rid of his mother-
in-law , who had a somewhat domineering
temper , the duke of Alba allowed her 100-
000 francs a year , with the request that elm
live anywhere but In bis own home In Mad
rid.
Eugenie , the younger , had many suitors
for her band. An English earl , an Amer
ican banker , a young cousin of the duka of
Alba , and shoals of Frenchmen , among
whom was a famous novelist , proposed to
her. One night at a ball given by the pres
ident at the Elysee , Eugenia met Louis Na
poleon. Ho bad Just been snubbed by the
prluco of IJuvarla. who had declined to give
the hand of hU daughter to an adventurer ,
leading speckeis Is quoted ap,1 6jcctlnB tc
nil evidence of gallantry , or even , courtesy ,
on the ) part of the , other sex. She refers
scornfully tq the' ways of the knlghts-enant
In legendary times , and then says : "The
companions of our lives now content them
selves with raising their hats when they
meet us , bowing their heads and bending
their backbones when they speak to us , and
spreading themselves In assurances of re
spect when they write to us. Now , It Is ab
solutely aggravating. We don't want to bo
respected. This show of deference Is sim
ply a sign of contempt. It Is tile mark of our
servitude. We have no means of forgetting
for a single Instant our weakness and our
misfortune. Our so-called lords and mas
ters constantly remind us of their superior
ity. We want to Ignore the fnct that we are
women , but they won't allow us. " Her hear
ers agreed with her to a woman , and then
by unanimous vote it was resolved to re
nounce and condemn Mme. Pognon. This
lady , It seems , presided at a meeting similar
to their own a few days previously and
some men present were rude enough to In-
tcrrpt the proceedings by cat , calls. Then
Mme. Pognon committed her fatal mistake
, She silenced the men by appealing In e
( sweet volco to lliclr gallantry. For this
she was renounced and condemned , An
other resolution was also passed unani
mously , demanding reciprocal treatment
whereupon the Paris Figaro comments
"And so wo must now stand on n level with
the ladles , treat them like chums , man
to man. It was not enough for us to wit
ness the gradual extinction of the exterloi
differences by which wo formerly recog
nised a pretty woman In the street. It was
not enough to see the arrival of the rcwdj
woman , the professor woman , the medical
woman , the lawyer woman , the woman In
trousers , the little bicyclist zouave. Our
last Illusions must be taken away from us
Wo are forbidden to be polite ! It appear * ,
that there are not enough roughs and muffs
among us. All right. Everybody remem
bers the drawing by Wlllette , where the
husband says to his companion In misery :
'Oh , If you were only my equal , what a
splendid licking I would glvo you ! ' That it
a historical expression , which In a short
tlmo will become antediluvian , "
.Mrx. SIIMVO In I lit- Hole of lloiur-
imiKiT and IloiiNi'kfi'iKT ,
Mrs. Harriet Dcccher Stowc's life stands
out from the pages of history as one that
has had a large share In the uplifting of
humanity , and so great was her Influence
that President Lincoln Is uald to have
greeted her as "tho little wpman who
brought on the great war. " That this bright
genius was a comfortable , economical , prac
tical housewife Is a fact tlm'f'EUyjufJ ' ! bo an
Inspiration to the housekeeper , whose dally
round of duties seem otter ) ] HO , , humdrum
and narrow , Indeed. Mrs. j.Stow.i . ; herself
tells us , how while writing onP ofjicr early
novels , which for literary jn.cjrlti.ijs placed
by critics among her best' , I if he was
papering n room and would think up a page
or two while putting up a [ e\v \ engths of
pappr , write these out and Jreturo to her
manual labor again , and so "tmn.und turn
about" with pen and brush until the room
was finished. , | ,
It Is a refreshment to rpracmber that
Mrs. Stowo was In her pr/fncjjwhen / she
turned her pen to domestic niatprsand ( gave
her mind to such topics as "The , lLady Who
Does Her Own Work , " etc. , JTEI ,
In her article on "Tho I dya. Vho Docs
Her Own Work" Mrs. Stowe uwells on the
value of housework In giving rtjtho very
healthiest form of exercise , ' .for the
average woman shows It to l > q far prefer
able to the work of the masseu , who , even
In thoEO days , moro than thirty years ago ,
bccm to have fcund plenty of patients , She
quaintly speaks of them as "hired oper
ators to stretch and exercise Inactive mus
cles. " "Women , " she continues , "lie for
hours to have ) their feet twigged , their
arms flexed , and all the different muscles
worked for them , because they are so
flaccid and torpid that the powers of life
do not go on. "
"Would It not be quite as cheerful
and less expensive a process , " she asks , "If
young girls from early life developed the
musclea In sweeping , dusting , Ironing , rub
bing furniture and all the multiplied do
mestic processes which our grandmothers
knew of1 and then adds : "I will venture
to say that our grandmothers In a week went
over every movement that any gymnast
has Invented , and went over them to some
productive purpose , too. "
Here Is a hint that women with thin arma
would do well to take , U is said to be
really a fact that Clara Loulso Kcllogg , th' '
singer , when a young girl , wan much an
noycd by the attenuated appearance of he
arms when she began to don cvcnlni
dress at her crowded concerts. Some on
recommended a brisk use of the broom
which ndvlco she followed , and soon had
round , plump member ns the reward of he
labor. If a thin , listless girl , with a dul
cyo and stare can by any means bo per
suailed to try the "broom cure" she wll
bo astonished to find what a bcautlflcr I
surely Is.
In the matter of wall paper Mrs. Stow
gives advlco for very artistic and chccrfn
effects and now that summer Is drawing t
n close thcso hints will be very useful t
the housekeeper.
"AH you want of n paper , " says Mrs
Stowc , "Is to make a ground work to thro\
out your pictures and other matters , ante
to icficct a pleasant tone of light. " Sh
further bids us beware of cold blue grays
It wo must have thin tint to lurmonlz
with carpet or furniture let It bo n "wnri
gray suffused with gold or rose color , sue
ns you see nt evening In the clouds. " "llct
ter than all , " she declares , "for the room
wherein the family Is most often found I
a paper with n buff tone , something tha
produce's warm , yellowish reflections thn
will almost make you think the sun I
shining In cold , gray weather. " Nothln
lights up so cheerfully In the evening an
the color of the old-fashioned zaftcran
rose , which must have been very like som
of our beautiful yellow ones of today , sh
commends for cheer and brightness.
She , nlso commends a color which wa
then called maroon , n rich , deep crlmso
and which with brighten tints of the sam
and n dash here and ( hero of heaven's ow ;
blue In draperies nnd brlc-n-brac woul
make a lovely motif for n family room.
The tlmo when Mrs. Stowe writes , \t <
must remember , were the days of nbomlna
tlona In the wny of carpets with huge me
dalllons nnd Impossible Mowers nnd stll
sets nt black walnut furniture , general ! ;
covered with green rep , upon which walkc <
and sat men with long hair and women will
enormous hoops nnd flowing ringlet * , niv
> ct In spite of nil this she conjures rp th
loveliest rooms Imaginable.
Kit NI Ion \ orH. .
A white snllor hat , fwccd under the brln
with daik blue , has a band and whig of darl
blue for trimming.
There Is n growing fancy among designer
for rich , beautiful oriental effects Instead o
the dresclcn and pompadour patterns so loni
the rage.
H Is llgely that the craze for gay-pat
ternod ribbon will decline by another
season , and that plain , rich weaves In satin
taffeta and velvet will survive the fane ;
varieties
It Is said that aigrettes will not be It
such favor for the reason that the roya
bride , Princess Maud , has decided to m
longer countenance a fashion which causei
Buffering and death to the nesting heroi
which provides them.
A white hat Is the most appropriate ! ;
worn with an all-white costume , or If tin
gown be of coarse ctamlno or Holland , i
hat of coarse cream stiaw looks well with i
twist of ilbbon and a butterfly bow will
painted ends ns n simple finish .
A gown of white pique has the skirt nm
collar trimmed with n narrow band of blui
linen. The shirt and collar arc made o
striped blue nnd white linen. The full fron
of the bodlco Is caught up under a large bov
of the pique , lined with blue linen.
This season the etamlnes , canvas , fabric
nnd ether rough las'tet effects are conslderei
smarter gowns than those made of soft
smooth woolen. There arc countless pat
terns this year of this description , also ii
mixtures of two contrasting weavrs.
Exquisitely delicate and beautiful design :
on Venetian , Renaissance , Honlton , Llerii
and Vandyke laces and insertions are lali
over tinted chiffons on elegant cvcnlnt
waists made to wear with skirts of satii
brocade or taffeta silk , plain , changeable o :
flowered.
White serge , white flannel , mohair ani
linen duck are all extremely popular bcacl
gowns this season , and an attractive com
blnatlon just now Is a white serge or mo
hair skirt worn with Persian patterned sill
or cashmere , the patterned fabric being usei
to form a corselet or shirtwaist.
Ribbon In 'every width nnd color and pnt
tern Is prodigally used for vests , stocks , gir
dies , belts , sashes and shoulder-bows as wcl
as fcir any other decoration that fancy cai
contrive for. waist or skirt. The ribboi
stock Is still ubiquitous , and with the match
Ing belt garnitures Is often the saving graci
of a gown.
Most of the huge round hats piled will
gauze or tulle of two different colors , wltl
* basketful of roses , intermixed with a bit
unrefined looking buckle , and the whol <
overspread by a pair of far-reaching bird o
Paradise plumes arc absurd to a degree , ant
look ridiculous above a face either full 01
slender. It It to be hoped that these cleco
rations will pass Into desuetude with the
Doming of autumn hat garnitures.
For autumn gowns the mohair fabrics
will lose none of their prestige : on the con <
: rary. they will find additional patronage
mil sample cards show additional novelticf
: o the already great variety of their wcav-
: ng. Among these are bcuretto , mohairs
ivlth rough , shaggy figures woven on theli
ustrous surface , also mohair serges and mo-
inlr diagonals woven In twills In various
. olorlngs. There are also new pretty chame.
eon mohairs , Persian effects on rich Oriental
: olorlngs , and dressy nnd effective satin
Inlshcd patterns that could easily bo nils-
: aken for fancy silks.
Kflllllllltf XotL'H ,
Ellen Terry and Sarah Bernhardt are writ-
ng each a book of memoirs.
Queen Victoria did very handsomely bj
ho Princess Maud. She presented her wltl ;
1300,000.
Baroness dc Hlrsch has donated $2,500 tc.
he Rons memorial fund In memory of her
ate husband , Baron do Hlrsch.
The daughter-in-law of LI Hung Chang
, vlll In a few da > s receive some handsome
ilcccs of Jewelry which were ordered by
ho viceroy when he was In Berlin.
Miss Hllller and Miss Cannington , mis-
ilonarles , will start In a few days for Wu-
ihang , China , to work under the auspices
if the Woman's Auxiliary of the Wesleyan
loclety.
The empress of Japan has named her new
laughter Yukl-Ko , which , Interpreted , means
'Beautiful Leaf. " The empress already has
i number of daughters and but one son , wha
s In very poor health.
Queen Victoria is Interested In many re-
orms. She Is at present trying to convert
ho prlnco of Wales to the belief that the
locking of his horse's tails is a barbarous
ustotn and will soon be entirely out of
tylo.
Olga Ncthersole Is considered ono of the
hrewdcst financiers among the actresses ,
Llthenigh so frail , so nervotib , and apparently
ndlfferent to the value of money , she never-
helcBB counts her funds regularly and knows
i'hero every cent has been spent ,
Mme , Fcdossova , a Russian peasant of
ho province of Pctrosaawodsk , Is said to
lave the most prolific pen in the kingdom
f the czar. She has already produced over
0,000 pcems , many of which are greatly
dmlred by well known authors.
Miss Lorraine Lawrence of New York
lity has been awarded the first prize at
ho Lelpslc conservatory for the highest
ttalntntmts. The honor was conferred by
ho Board of Directors , and Miss Lawrence
/111 take a post-graduate course.
Baroness Gabrlolle Possaiiner has passed
n examination as doctor of medicine In
'ienna , She hns received great praise from
10 professors for the excellence of her work ,
'he ' baroness passed a similar examination
31HO time ago In Switzerland.
The duchess of Marlborough has returned
> Blenheim , after a very gay season In
lOiiilon , Since her arrival she has given
n elaborate garden party to the people of
10 entlro county and another to the tenants
nd employes , with their wives and clill-
ren , who were royally entertained.
Miss M , Browne has been granted by the
oclcty of Apothecaries of London a diploma
iitltllng her to practice medicine and
jrgcry , and enabling her to compete for
ledlcal appointments for the army , navy
ud Indian service , as well as poor law up-
ointments.
Mme. Bartet Is said by critics to bo the
val of Mme. Bernhardt and the superior
[ all other French actresses. Ltko Jane
lading , she bases her reputation upon
: auty first and art afterward. Mme. Bartet
refers the homage of Paris and refuses to
ipear In any otliur city In the world.
The queen of Italy may be seen every
orn Ing out for a spin upon her wheel ,
his accomplishment Is of recent acquire-
ent , she having received Instructions from
professor of Milan. Hitherto this gport
in uot , been the thing for Italian ladles ,
but many are now following her majcsty'i
example.
Miss Christine Blanche I < nbnrraquc 01
Berkeley college , California , Is the flrsl
blind woman of the state to receive lega
honors. She will soon be n thorough ! )
equipped lawyer. Although blind fron
birth , she has been n great student. She
took a full course nt the California llllin
Institute and graduated with honors. She
Is also a graduate from the State unhcrsltj
of California.
Miss Agnes Huge ! , the president of the
German League for the Prevention of Kill' '
Ing of Birds , delivered nn Interesting nd
dress the other day before the Internationa
Congress for thp Prevention of Cruelty te
Animals , In session at Pesth. The Indj
dwelt upon the fact that millions of In
noccnt birds have been destroyed during ihi
last tew years for the decoration of bonnet !
and hats. The meeting was cnthuMastli
and resolutions wcro passed to aid in ac
compllshlng some permanent teform.
cossir AUDI"e ! > Tion IMCOIM.K
A college chum of Tom Watson says thn
the populist nominee for vice president wai
the hardest student he ever saw. Ho wouti
rend so persistently through the night tha
often the next day his oycs would bo con
traded and bloodshot , giving him the np
penranco of n man recovering from a de
bntich , and the question was frequent ! ;
asked : "Doesn't Watson drink ? " Ho wai
too poor to buy oil , nnd It was his custem
to arrange n row of chairs before a ptni
knot 11 ro nnd llo thcro reading history til
early In the morning.
The homestead of Hryan's great-great
grandfather Is still standing near Culpcper
Va. , at the base of one1 eif the tallest peaki
of the Uluc Rldgo mountains. It was bull
about 17G2 , of heavy notched logs. Neail ;
two years ago the present occupants of the
house had It vi'iUluT-boarded nnd enlarged
Not fnr from It Is what Is called the "Dryai
Meeting House , " n rambling old Hnptls' '
church , the nnmo of which testifies to tin
family Interest In religious matters , nm
perhaps explains the candidate's tendency te
use biblical metaphor.
Max Nordau Is n great cnfe visitor Ir
Paris , nnd an American who saw him , n one
of his favorite resorts sajs of him : "No won
der ho abuses everybody , for he Is 'he vcrj
qulncsscntlal figure of gall and bitterness ,
He Is small nnd mallcloutt , and as hairy
as a monkey. Ills oycs are large , nnd when
ho Is not glaring nt Ibsen , Wngner oi
Maeterlinck they nre line nnd rather sail
In expression. He Is a remarkable linguist ,
and he hns an excellent practice as a phy
sician. He Is at work on his new book ,
said to be entitled , 'How to Bo Decent
Though In Paris. ' "
A friend of Hamilton Gibson , whose recent
untimely death Is so grcnt n calamity to the
world of art ami letters , says that the artist
had a singularly powerful magnetic attrac
tion for birds nnd other small wood-dwellers.
He mentions particularly one warm , still
day , when he stood patiently aC his camera
taking such glimpses of water through the
trees and bits of woodland as Mr. Gibson
suggested , when the latter suddenly lifted
his arms high above his head , pressing both
wrists together and forming a vlsellko hol
low with his hands , Into which quickly
fluttered down from a tree n little bird. Mr.
Gibson softly drew his hands down to his
face and made caressing sounds to the little
prisoner , who showed no terror.
George H. Millar , the assistant architect of
the capltol , who has just died , had held that
oflice since 1852. "He built the great white
dome that surmounts the capltol , " says the
Washington Star , "nnd In doing BO took n
deep personal Interest and continuous risk
in the work. He superintended placing the
colossal bronze figure of Liberty on the
dome , nnd was the last man down , retrcnt-
Ing step by step as each board of the scaf
folding was removed and lowered. Although
there was no such official position , he was
practically first assistant arhcltcct of the
capitol , and naturally , during the forty years
he spent In the building he became known to
nearly all the public men prominent in na
tional affairs during that period. He was a
public-spirited citizen of Washington , ami
was one of the first to enlist for the defence
of the capital In 1SC1.
The Emperor MenelPk gets bushels of let
ters congratulating him on his victory.
An Englishman , with a sly sense of humor ,
addressed him as "My dear Negus , " but an
Australian clergyman , whose sense of humor
was by no means so keen , sent him long
quotations from the bible. Inhabitants ol
Trieste , disliking Italy , sent him nn address
in verse * . Swiss admirers reminded him ol
their own struggle for Independence. Ger
mans and Austrians ridiculed their Italian
allies. Schoolboys begged for Abyssinian
postage stamps. Jews offered to float Ethi
opian bonds. A French girl sent him a
prayer which cured all diseases and warded
off all bullets. The correspondent also saw-
French caricatures of Mcnclek and SIgnor
Crlspi , over which his majesty was very
merry. When complimented upon his
hospitable treatment of his prisoners he re
marked that , though the Italians might
have depleted him as a savage , he had In
this respect simply followed Abyssinian
usages.
In noting the retirement from the army
of Major George E. Robinson , the Washing
ton papers recall the fact that he saved the
life of Secretary Stanton on the night Lin
coln was assassinated , Major Robinson was
an enlisted man In the army during the
war. Ho was soon afterword transferred to
the hospital corps , with station at Wash
ington City. When Stanton was thrown
from his carriage and so badly Injured that
he required the services of a professional
nurse , Robinson was assigned to look after
him. On the night when Booth shot the
prc&ldent and Payne made an attack upon
Stanton. Robinson was In the secretary's
room. The assassin , on entering , was seized
by Robinson , but he succeeded In attacking
the secretary. But for Robinson's presence
Mr. Stanton might have been killed. A gold
medal was given to Robinson by congress
for his services , and when Hayes came to
the White house ho was made a major and
paymaster In the army.
Hero Is another story of Prlnco Bismarck
that Is told en the authority of a German
paper : It was during the reign of Emperor
William I , when the present emperor was
a boy , that Prince Bismarck , walking one
day through a corridor of the royal palace
at Berlin , came upon a strange scene , Hear
ing within the room which ho passed a
great racket , ho opened the door and saw
the young grandsons of the emperor dancing
about , while their father , the crown prince ,
ground the handle of n hand-organ. All
wcro In high spirits , and , seeing the chan
cellor , the young princes laughingly Invited
him to Join In the dance. Prince Bismarck
declined , but ho offered to turn the organ
If the crown prlnco would join his sons.
Prince Frederick consented , and the chancel
lor turned the handle with great animation ,
The laughter and sport grew louder with the
Increased speed of the playing. Just then
the old emperor came In , llo took In the
situation at a glance , "I see , my lord
chancellor , " he said with a smile , "that
you are beginning early to make the princes
ilanco to your music ! "
I.AIIOIL AXI ) IMMISTHV.
Six thousand glass workers withdrew from
the Knights of Labor July J.
The building trades are dull In all sec
tions of the country , although this Is gen
erally the busy season.
The efforts to secure ) an annuity far Joseph
i\reh , the English labor leader , are meeting
tvlth treat success ,
The Amoskcag corporation at Manchester ,
N. II , , has shut down Indefinitely all Its
: > otton factories except one , throwing 0,000
operatives out of employment.
The mueh-crltlclsed Raines law In Now
York has proved a windfall to the bottle
Ulowcrs , This , In addition to the good
fruit season , has created a demand for
Aorkcrs that exceeds the supply.
Illinois Is the next state to Pennsylvania
n the production of coal. Now labor-saving
ncthodu are constantly being Introduced ,
me of the latest being the cutting machine ,
.vllli which one man can do the work ot
fifteen.
The German printers of Indianapolis have
taken the Initiative In establishing the forty-
hour week for machine operators , that Is ,
five days ot eight hours each , nil other em
ployes to be privileged to work six days a
week.
The bridge nnd structural Iron workers of
Chicago will demand an advance In wages.
The new scale w 111 go Into effect May \ ,
1S97 , nnd provides for nn Increase of 3 i
cents , nnd the scalp wltl apply to suburban
towns and some of the cities In Indiana ,
There Is a discouraging condition of af
fairs nl Klmwood , Iml. The shutdown of
the American tin pinto plant , where 1,200
men were employed , Is ono of the worst
features. The company nsks n cut of 15
per cent In the wages of the men who work
In the licit mills , numbering about 300 , Mlilch
they refuse to consider , and demand that
the company sign the amalgamated wage
scale ns other plants have done * . The com
pany shows that the market Is dull and that
It has n Inrge stock on hnnd. Many of the
glass factories nro nlso shut down Indefi
nitely.
Removes wrinkles nnd all truces of ngc.
It feeds through the pore-s and builds up
the fatty membranes nnd wasted tissues ,
nourishes the shriveled ami shrunken skin ,
tcincH and invigorates the nerves and mus
cles , enriches the Impoverished blood ves
sels and supplies youth nnd elasticity to
the action of the skin. It's perfect.
lieware of substitutes and counterfoils.
Yale's Original Skin Food , price Jl.BO ami
$ .100. At all drug stores.
Guldo to lienuty mailed free. Wilto for
one ,
MM13. M. TALK , Hcnllh nml Cninplrxlon
Specialist , Ynle Temple of Ilciiuty , 140 Htnto
street , ChlciiHO.
PARROTS
We oflVr tlicm tills ' .vein
t'htMiiier tliiin it'vcr
bcfons
Yodng Piin ISlanl
Parrots
The most bcnutlfiil
easiest nnd quickest in Icum to talk nimmg
nil p.irreits only SGOOonuh I'lils prleo In
cludes n slilppliiK' iiio : , L'-lln. purreilt sc'cib
with valuable * directions and a wrlttrn Kunr-
nn'eo. ' l.irce. ; solid I'm ml CUXGN , Si.bO.
1'arroU blilppuel ultli perfect safuty all over
U. . A.
Geisler's Bird Stora , Oiniha , Neb.
Established 1888
.VfOnPfliNE HABIT
PAINttSSlY & PCRMAKENTU CURED
PAINLESS ® Pmm ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND OIILV GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered In 1060. "TIIERIAKI" Book Fret ) .
Office 312 , 70 Monroe Street , flllfAflft III
P.O.Drawer663.WlllAUU > ILiL .
Y purchasing uoods iiiailo
|
at the. fe > llovsinu Nubni.s-
ka f.ictorios. If you can
not linU wlnst ymi want ,
coinninnicntuvith the
* t niantifiictiircrs as to
\v Ii a I dealers handle
tliuir Roods.
BAGS. BUHLAP AND TWINE.
Manufacturers of all klnda of coitua anil tur >
lap tiK . cotton Hour Barks anil twine a cpeo *
lally. GH-niG-618 H. nth ft.
BUEWEIUKS.
OMAHA lililSiVIXCJ"AS.SOOIATJO.V
Car luad ililpmenU made In our own refri * .
orator earn , lima Itlbbon , KIHe Uxporl , Vlcni *
l' i rt nml Family ISxport delivered to all paiu
of the city. _
utoN wonics.
_
" ii A vi IT t cov < ; 1 1 , i , ino.v wonuJT *
Iron anil IlriiHM l < 'uuiiilurii.
Manufactured ! and JnUjera of Machinery. < ltn-
rul repairing a ( pcclalty , ISO ) , 1S03 and 1WJ
J'ichEoa mrcet. Onmliu , Ken. _
1MJU.STHIAIIHO. \ WOHKS.
ilnnufacluilnn and repairing of nil kln'Ji ot
machinery , engines , pumi > .i. elevators , prnllnt ;
[ ircnsps , hangers , clmftltiK ana couplings. HU and
1408 llownid fit. . Omaha.
I'AXTO.V A : VIKIIMM : IIIO.V WOitlCN.
Manufacturer ! of Architectural Iron Wnrk ,
[ jcneral Knundry. Machlnn and Illacktinltl work ,
innliK'ern and CoMrnclom far Klre Proof llulld-
IRK * . Ofllce nnd works ; U , I * . Ity. ( nd Bo.
17th flffft. qmnSa.
AM Kit I HAN DISTIIIC/r TKMUJH AI'H.
The only perfect protection to property Ilxam-
no > t. Hfst thing on cnrtli , Redacts
rates. 130 < Douglas itrett.
_ SIIIRT KACTOIIIR9. . . .
I. II. "UVA.VS NIJIIHASICA 8IUUT
COMI'AJVV.
Exclusive custom shirt tailors. 111 ! Farnam.
TENTS AND AWNINQ3
\VOI < P 1II/.OS. / .t CO.
Manufacturers of tend , awnlnK . larpolluni ,
latin , tanners anil sUimncis. TKNTU 1'OH
tiNT. 703-70 : ; South ( iliUtnth street. Onmlis ,
A T i o\i 7
THE PRINCETON-YALE SCHOOL ,
l > roi.l Ilouleiurd .nil-ll.t Wlrttl , CIIJUAdU.
Ainiliiteil ullh IliB Unlvi-r.ley of C'lilriiKo.
Huyii thoroughly | immre < l fur uiilvtreltleiiamitcliotili
of science ! finely equipped iivardliiK dt | rtnienti lie"
and elegant fire-proof building * ! all modern lni | > ruve-
menUi faculty of 14 mile teulien , all | ifcUM t !
complete l bor turlui , gyinnxluni anil auillUirlumi
! > rlnutry , umiuimr anil colleue preparatory iH-jialt-
lueuUi lufAtlun near the itinlvemliy , llyilel'itrk rot *
driicedlttrlcti ununual literary , inunlral amlfducatlou-
' " ' "
a ! V , rlti'for "rat'aioKue. hcliool opens
bctt.2iit , live. iddrex IIIHA1I A. liUUCH , Ucuu.
> ' ' ' " ' ' " " > l.'Ti.-1-.l . Mllllilp Scjintilllillinriilllrul - l.
RJJIL1TARV KiH > ui > es Ix > ir. Equipment tknnpletv. bui > plle > il by the Govern
Souil Ifi m VnrMV went wUUAriuiiiiuil Army Ofllccr. AUilre-m ,
for Cut"loguu * . " . MAJOR tANCrORB SIUtRS , H , A. , SUPT. , UIIKOTOH , MO