Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, August 16, 1896, Page 11, Image 11

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THE O fAHA BATLT I5EE : ArG-UST 1G , ISOO. II
S Ss S0N @X 0X 0\5\c \ FN * FV ® \
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
VLL , \M1HS I'OII I.IT1JLU MUDS.
stfcnttnlilc. n
Anltintn M'lm > l Clotlu'fc.
Tft nK Aug. 14 This I * tlie montf-nt
* lit * car vli'-fi mothers Tftb < hove *
, gl ere IL edocatt we * to betfe
lout T t'f their iiutoinn wAKic ?
h ' 'itttiber lo ImmHIIiito pro | cct aafl
hot ! tptiutpf to fellow cm tit , bt-elii , a.
onh it teiji toe mvrh Uffle fw thi cet-
tp of t'fii'y fl wtihlMe w.bonl tre ts
auiwbfhir for ene little maW er Jer
vrral
ere BO maitj thlncs to lit
frr' ' m.art trim weirt qoxrnt ; of
Kte K i.rL.lc | becoming halt und lliSht ,
BROWN NOVELTTWOOL. .
lose coatE , lo flrnxv on with the earlj- winds
laen f.cxeru.1 pairs of city , well-made thocE
fid a world of little things btockingt. . hand-
lefK ) oxcs aud rolla.te.ltfs. In various
I.aterlals and shapes for the Bumrtenlng
of plain or damaged e-OKtumts
i Where an old gown of ail ejder tihter IF
iiale to do Fen Ice for a > ounger one , the
llditlon ut a laee or emlueider.x collarette ,
u ni-w yoke of some nort. Avlll do xvondcrs
the way of freshening up. Then the loot
1be hunded-doxx n f roc.lt IE also chanpe-d
lalch IE very ne-cetsnry in * ome casti. , at
| any semitixe children are made Aery un-
ppy at being forced to wear the clothes
SCHOOL APRON
| > t a brother or titter but a year or two
lilder.
Important In the underwear line are Bev.
lira ! neat flannel petticoats of graduating
IlilckneBB to chance with the weather , aiid
livery little fme.li thould haxe u pocket for
f.he huudla-rclilnf.
In the hoarding ; cchool tror.pccu a iiali
bl warm worried BllpperR. to put on wlier
[ umplnc out of bed , t > hould always be iu-
Muded. Aliio n'veral 'BtudjBprons ol
Jilack ( ,111 : or black alpaca will te fouuc
o be Rood InieEtmeutE.
Made lone. Hl.e a cooking apron , will
i hi h bih and loose clee\eE , thtBe will
AND MIXED 'WOOL.
'jTt tbr imlf ff HBc At the points whari
' } ctt liardit * cenior tud bo L ep thin
it ces.t rouo'ioo Tten a ralKEy IE i
\utsjf i DUDE JH rkoD v nil a taste lor nnery
rufllt * nod rolo'-ed ribbon
tea fcliouider * . tie blktt
any \ > * made a irrj
I KSW AfTVMN STTLn.
I As to at-tr avtamn rlt tor dhitdrnu
nt nrarm , thPT ft & t all to tie r-
krt BC r t. It will I * OUolKir , at Hwct ,
before Mrt. . T nfalnn aiwJoiurf nil ot her
IntMit niwrctt , . vbettHir for We ixtopto r
for lltthjM p1f. Meenwkll * , iMrweter , tbe
( tine H J.plnq don * , cwwtif
a llttlt mwr tward t
f BUttino hid nnfl tbc nktop *
nil autumn lielleve Jo left-iner prtec
At tbe ehlklrpiTs fmnlabltic ahopr In tbe
line theonlj aexx thlucs as jt
Ube n are certain simple little wool gowns
and neat , plain jail.ft * put forward tor
ncbool wear Thfwe tre tbe firnt tWncs
ii 'ded. and MI are the firm inertr. tb * out-
llttprK nexer waiting for cfivices from I'trie
for these garments
"Why ? " repcate-d a French forpworaan
recently "Be-eautie there erf no snrh
things RChonl fashion * for children In
larlK Pustom only exact * tbat f-rhool RlrlE
Khali areas lit , plainly us poimihlp , anfl in
cxory pension the tone black npion IE re
quired nnfl , in many , n blacl ; sortie or polag-
crat Irork. "
Contrary to these x-ery excellent notions
of simplicity for jouth , ut manj of the Nexx
Tt rl : boat dine schools the girls ait ullowed
to dress DE extrnx-agantly as thlr tnothers-
clect tnd the > cbeiose A xery bad disease
calif d "clothes jmlourj' " Is the lesult. to
the rtarnEge ot health und ticglect of let-
SOn ; .
The designs fhoxxn will givr a fexx scnBl-
ble tnd prettj Idckt tor i-chciol gowns for
glrlE from k to 14 jearr.
A costume for a niias of 14 made1 of brown
noxelty wool ringed with cardinal The skirt
which IE made without lining to lusuii
of weight , is cut xxith D cirrult.1 '
front and godet back , und Is finished ct tbe
bottom -with flx-e roxxs of nar-pxx caramal
braid aboxe a small hejn. Tbe blouse-byf
lee. which bus a box-plaited gutmpe end fas
teur at tbe back , has the ! > Vlrt buttoned on
to tbe waistband end at the ner-U tbne it
a beading of tbe itidlnul braid through
which is run a draw-string of brown ribbon
tying nt each rhoulder in a small boxx Pla n
neckband and sleexes fimallish pi pots made
very close at the bottom and xxitb turu-bael.
CUflE.
CUflE.With
With this gown a cardinal or brown |
leather beOt maj be xvoru , aud the bet may
be UE simple ac desired. In this instance j
it IE u rather smart affair and suitable tor
ex en a dressier frock A high-crowned sailor
of brown braided satin and felt is tht shape
which is trimmed at tbe left -with rose-ties
of white and broxvn ribbon and cardinal
quills.
BLUE WOOL FROCKS
A short wool dress for a girl from 10 tc
14 is < n a curious tint of blue vith x-lolme
shadings. The blouse-bodice of this it tlsi
de-tuchcd from the skirt vhloh here buttons
on the waistband tmder'u crush belt of the
cown material A noxel and ornamental
feature of the bodice is a slashing of tbe
outer blouse to show un under one of vh e
silk crossed at interx-ols by Tjlue e-ords oxer
tiny pHt buttons A white sill ; collar in
two separate * tabs , falls ox-e.r a ribbon stork
and tlee-xes. tbe eonxcntional gigot shape
Here apropos of school girts and s. ! > a
xvord Sill , is not necessarily an ertrara
gant or unsuitable texture for school v ear
If used -with discretion and combined -xritb
wool ts silk Eleexes and vote in a cash
mere tioclv , or perhaps an entire Bilk blouse
with skirt and bolero of serge. It may lit
worn by any age , though , of course , an entire
tire- silk gown vould be out ot place in tbe
schonl room
Other silk trimmings for -wool gowns
either in plain or figured WCJ.X-CK , could be
in the shnpe of narroxx bias ruffles for the
siirt. and for the bodice , n crush belt and
collar , bretelles and turn-back cuffs If the
wool gown is In a plain weave , tbe silk trim
ming Is best If showing some deblgn , plaids
figures or stripes When the gown Material
is patterned then trio trimming should con-
trap * in plainness
Oil no account should velvet or metal em
broideries ot uuy sort appear on a school
frock A nsrroxv edge of gilt braid may be
used sparingly , and also small gilt buttons
but where a smart dress-up frock is turned
ox-cr to school uses all superfluous decora
tion and finerxEhould be first removed
Otherwise there -would be the clothes jeal
ousy mentioned
And ten chanres to one little missy's fine
feathers would look exactly what tbej were ,
her old last winter's best frock , which her
mamma was ttying to make her wear out
before getting her B new one.
SMART CHEVIOT GOWNS.
A verj cocky little gown for a girl of
10 , IE made of noxelty cheviot tnd plain
scarlet cloth Black , scarlet and art green
are tbe colors of the cheviot xxhlch is In
n voolly x\eax-e tnd a tery smart effect is
made by a braiding of art green , vhlc.h. In
a Roman band , finishes all of the plain cloth
trimming Then take tbe shape of a peasant
bodice with square bretelleE over the
shoulders a cuff hand for the sleeves and a
band at the bottom of the sklrt-
This pretty model will look equally well
made up In other wool fabrics , fipured
striped or checked
Only , for anv sort of a t hecl-ed or plaid
material the square de-sign of the braiding
would nee'd to be changed to straight
rowr. us otherwise the trimming would con
flict with the gown material
Any sort of a little sleexeless Figaro
or bolero jacket will be found a dashing
addition to u simple xvool gown , and may
be made of plain cloth and trimmed with
gilt braid if liked In the way of com
binations , a plain red one xxlth a plaid frock
xvould b < - very smart , tnd if the plaid is
vary gey jet showing a blae.1 ; stripe , a
black bole-ro would be an even smarter touch
A half jard of cloth , of the usual width ,
would be ell the material required to intke
a rleevelt-Bt rigaro for a girl of in Tor silk
trimmings there are many colored remnants
to be bought very low , and more economies ,
ex' n. may be made by utilizing the fresh
portions of gronnup Bilk gowns some big
member of the family has discarded.
SAILOR MODELS.
At the children' * furnishers are seen some
very neat and Inexpinsixe little suits In
navy and fisherman's blue serge and flanne.1
These follow , in many instances , the usual
sailor model , a louse blouse with u shield
trout and u sailor collar and lull gathered
skirt Tbej are trlmmud with coarse xxoolem
braids , commonly in straight rows and L
nan owe ! width abcx-e a wider
In the way of color combination , a blue
gown would hcxe white or red braid and a
re < d one black
OnlrotUs of other colors , in plain thetled ,
plain and figured wools of all eons , round
black mohair liraidt in rows of three , or
more made an cffuctixe garniture. All of
these little frocks vue offered for n.boal
wear
The gown modet ) lor girls under 10 ic usu
ally what Is celled oue-plix-e " which meant
bodice and tkirt seweid together. Froiks
tor older girl * have sUlrt and waist separate.
us describe * , } , but tor nil age * up to 1C , the
costume buttons ut the buck Separate i.Uu
blouse i and Norfolk bodice , with bubques. lo
be worn IxJtfil. iBKttsn at tbe trout.
Corsets ere not adx-U d for girls under
1" but they eifttm neeid to be w rn , to care
should be tal.im te get those that will do
the leuH harm. A simple bound bodice
with shoulder urcpf is a simple win that
may be found reedy raade at all of tbe
large shops. I'nlera the figure is uu < xim-
numly de > eJiHd or ne < e < ds straightenins
in eome diiortion. these will trapply Ul the
utuwutry for school girls of tuj
Vary ( .mart little } u.cl. ts and cspes for
first eututnn use may tlHo be found tt
the lilliptliau shops All are about first
trine weight and tbe storm cujms with
their pJald luelugt nud the tan tiid blue
tttf ooatfc took > utt as they halt lotiLwi
lor t-exwal ti'inmt. Out brand a u oout
' < iiKte ] u very Iet < blue
' Tbi * was in jeJUm-uin wbipi-urd and on
' the oruet of the l/bort iuobtnouU Frt > nih
s The t.l tL r bcx { as. , ted btck anJ - rt
- 1 uuaer . i-b itcd j&Lt , tltc\ft catil
drawn rocgl ) down 1o the wrlct with a
pattnUrt PUS and high flaring collar.
On n little nw.nik.ii of K ? * Wf of cpt
tke vffvrt wa killlacljcrownBi > .
With tbe Mono mats and cci > ef were
MWAH MtBH- neat little Alpl&e bats IB Mtrat
Ltltcbe4 x\ools. also for ba4 wcatb < r a .
NINA nTCH.
ljircl .r I'opil lij Bin in n nnnif * for
I > fiI opium t of Cif t.
AE a matter of 'act , not one w * man in
a buii4re4 breather normally. TJte reKpira-
tlon nf th * average woman varies with
every cbange of tnt-ntal utate or physical
condition , grief , depletion , fatigue , all bate
their Influence in lowwkm the urooant ti'
oxygen thtu goes into the rxstem , and it
is a rare thitig lor woman to use her lungs
to the best possible advantage unleBE Khc
has bad tbe speri&l and definite instruction
in brpathinc iucldent to the vocal training
of a singer or elocutionist A little knowl
edge of physiology , and a fexx hints on tbe
wibjocts , bowexer will enable anj woman
to comprehend the precise art oT filling and
emptying the lungs on scientific principles.
SCHOOL G0\
Tbe main thing is to be sure that the lower
lobes , of the lung-E are well filled with air ,
and that one breathes from the abdomen
ATtrr one hut acquired thlE habit , the chief
thing is to breathe in as much sunshine as
posblblc. and to belhxe in the efficacy of
oxygen as a remedy for nearly all the ill
that flesh is heir to.
The following are some excellent rules
for improving the respiration and bring
ing it up to a normal condition Stand
at en open window or recline on a couch
vith the waist and chest unconflned ; bold
the chest walls high and inhale in slow ,
long breaths ; exhale as blowly. three times
only at first. Gradually the number of
times may be increased and the time length
ened for the breathing exercises , riltecn
mluutcE. twice u day at least , should be
devoted to this exercise to accomplish the
desired results. To Inhale long , deep
breaths while elowly raising the arms aboxe
the head and to exhale as slowly while
lowering them is one of the best breathing
exercises exer indented The practice of
breathing \ery deeply while walking in
the open air is recommended not only foi
the general health , but is one of the best
curcE for obesity , as the increased amount
of ox > gen greatly augments the consumption
of waste material.
Mrs Emma Eames Story , whose full and
generous outlines are beautiful examples
of the results of vocal and breathing gym
nastics , not only ik fond of outdoor life ,
of walking and bomback riling , but says
that the requirements of her art demand
continued dalls practice of tbe very exer
cises which we have- recommended for the
development of chest , back and abdomen.
THE 1VILSO.NS.
Miitrifiiunlftl Trltiinplib fif tli * * l &iul-
AVlilrli Coilnrfd n Yiiiidcrliilt.
Tbe house of Wilson tbe boclal bead of
which is Mrs Richard T Wilson , las , like
the bouse of liapsbure acbiexed greatness
by marriage , says the New York Journal.
The SOUE and daughters of Mr. and Mrt > .
Richard T. Wilson have allied thembedxes
with the richest families in tbe world.
Miks May Wilton , their eldest daughter ,
galue4 the firet great victory in tbe social
career of her famllj. She rnurriod Ofdcii
Gotdtt , whose wealth is estimated at Ht-
ODD.OdO. He and his brother , Robert , huxe
nearly e-qual fortunes. The Goclcte are.
next to the Aston , , the. greatest owntrb of
real property in New York.
Marthall Orme Wilwm , eldest son of tbe
family , rnarrlwJ Miss Caroline Abtor. young
est daughter of the late William Astor , tbe
ilrJer of John Jacob Astor Her fortune
iiuountE to TlS.fiuli.OOO MIES Belle Wilson ,
tbe sttcoud daughter married Hon. Michael
Henry Herbert son of Lord Htirberi f Leia.
atid brother of the burl of Pembroke. He
I w at. at onetime first secretary of the Qrit-
| ifth 1 eeat ion et WrfchlngUm. Mr Hurburt's
eieutriUuticin 10 tbe Wilwm { tmily greatnesc
cannot be rotV.ouod in dwllart. although hit
wife has a EUfbcimry Through him tbe
Wilbonc tre conn ctt < d with the nuist e-ncitnt
and lamouE fi-tniiiut in the Ilrititb aris-
toeiracy A Htsrbevrt who war carl of Pem
broke x\ac among tbe patrons of WiUiam
Shtkecpeare
The greatest of til the Wilson cllinuttt
ik that with the bouw of Vtuderblit. whirb
was rocttnUy oonbummtttid Tbe f tbw i f
j tbe croom , Oomdtus Yi-udtirUit , is nuw
worth over Jl . 'B ' OUQ Tbtu-ofwr. U > u.y
, thut tbe MUI will inherit f 1W luii ( ibD. U IM
twideut oortirs U a moderate e&nnute
1 ? has lately been reported bat the i-
tpimeiit vet i.bout to be ar.i > t-t i 1 e > f
Ljihtrd T T\Jbon yi UCE"k " 1 t 'bf
lioubt , to iliti Otrry , uc.ucLt.tr u. ' Mr. c U
Mrs Elbnflce T Gf * ah-1- * ! ! icbtrlt
fct
\bf brinptnc of JlTfcWflWM. nno
on famUv Tbl ; total < Pr aart iB
the fortune i f Rle iard T "WHlwin bimwlf
whh-i Is larpp He i prtim&tii < lo 1 *
wt rth tlti W f > W It Bl in Ulii > bo BrcB Bt
of tb t * ltk of tbs brotbnt < Bister * and
Mhw immvdtfctr rpl tir of fcBy of tbow
wko h xe ptttrfd tbe WOMfi Htaily
Mrs. Hichtird T
tbe most lnflv jtlEl juntas 'a Jvpw York
Boelcty tcdiy This fart h * "pDVTt < * n $ . *
erally rwv iird Tbf 1st ? ' Mrs r ran
Strvpns war once regarapfl r 6' the
IKtwerful w-oaian IB sorlrtr. Wft a
can w * BOW that Mrs wnwas alwti
a p-eetw p < t er
OomlBg from a poofl M Bthfrn faaiily ,
rtw has tbe a - of manfters and pleas
ant x-oH-e xxbJcb often Ix-lMig te b r olaBC
hut be has roach more erey than tbe
typlfBl HotiibeiB xvmnan
} her mBlpbmEklBF skill Mrs Wilson
h brought into ber family we mottpy
th n tbe original Joan Jtapob Astor or Com-
nodttre Va.u rbilt c&ia d No financier in the
orld controls as macb money hs Mrs TVU-
wtni n&d her sent mid daoghtATE No Ameri
can natron hat ever apprroclicd her record
as i mttchniBkt'r Only Que-en Victoria tnfl
the qtiefn of Deamark caa be compared to
berHlchard T Wilson i * a uontherner of bum
ble origin. In addition to brains , he pos-
ne pt a muCTintent pbyglqut. He is now
about Of. jears of ape He stands over six
fwt high and has remarkaWy broad should
ers Tbe eroctneas of his ctrriage shows
that he carries his jears with -ease His
hair is gray Imt as thick ES that of a
young man
He was bnrn in Habersham pwunty. in the
northern part of Georgia. On leaxlng
school he went to KuexxUle. Tenn. . where
be VUB a. clurk In . blere for sex era ]
jcari.
VNS TOR ArTTMN.
His next move was to middle Georgia
Prom clerk of a country store he rapidly
rose to be a proprietor He dealt largely
with planters , supplying them xxith pro
visions and receiving in many cubes portions
tions of their crops in exchange
Itwas at this time that be met and mar
ried Miss Johnson of Macon , -Go , . a member
of a well known southern family She was
a beauty and a woman of mueb force of
character and social talent.
At the outbreak of tbe war be entered
tbe confederate Lrmy. and even there his
business ability decided tbe direction of
his military career He rose to be a com
missary general About the same time he
secured . position ar. an agent abroad to
dispose of tht cotton crop
While in England he made the acquaint
ance of many great merchants and estab-
libhed friendships Lnd connections which
hexe lasted him e'ver since He made a
small fortune during the war period , es-
j tablibhod at TSHO.IiOO.
Till ! 1IH1UC.
C n Curler in Cltlcupu Rernrd
As home fair morn unfoldh n dfwy rose
To more of frajranee and of color blight
That moxes to admiration and flcllpht
Prom hour to bour until tbe eve-ing's close.
So marriage pruets woman with repose.
And thus tbe beauty of her being wems
The e-ounterjiHrt of nature's perfect drcums.
With such dix-inenehh her dominion hhowB
O flower of loxe beyond Ecleulc themts ,
A type of purudine enthroned uboxe1
All t-ordld paHslons and a.11 x-oln desires ;
The norJd Krowt , warm of heart while it
admires
And in "one touch of naturp" kindly grows ,
Tb m rroxxns the reigning bride the queen
of love.
MIVI2L.TIES l
Trlflcu Hint HfisliJeii tttt Ildiulj of
- -
Bachelor buttons ait utulnip to a fa
vorite place on tea and traf cloths They
are embroidered In the natural bbades , in
keaslngtou stitch with ceeff' eiilers. The
true x\ay of working them V ( study tbe
natural blobsomb and maUh he > ir hues
with the silks Those eim ircydered on a
tea cloth receintly be-en werp Awhile at the
outer edge'E of the pe-tnls , 'vHti ' a btai-
thaped c ntBr of laxender , MHp ] yellow and
ri-d. and tends of a eiouu'&JiuB color.
These floworf oombined v.ilii , i.cuves and
scrolls make a pruttjdfccinttuiii and are
a departure from the x-arltty bf flowers
that we hax-e grown aocubtoait4 to beeing
' * r
In ombjoic'tiry
' 4 >
Jewea embroidery is Hke'd'v.f'eudolllus es
weill HE the more prtaemtloufpitioeiE and
the bright dashee of oolor thus lent the
work enliven en otherwise common pluce
pattern wondortully
Bright little Dresden flowers tretiry
"takiiig" on small bits ef work , A dtli-
cate HUtiy iu dull green with a lew of tbete
Quaintly gej blokMimb , makes a charming
deioorauou
Doilies haxe tilmottt unirorsally had tbe
button-hole edge made with wbite But
now there uomtc an limitation Altwuatf
QAlors areutud in the Millojit One obowE
jttllow , old blue tud c4fl rttd in sueteibBien ,
while otberb are iu opaiehcent tiCocts.
i The Pergtim embroidcriof vie with the
Mewnldd in their richnebs of oolor ID relegating -
| legating cilkE for tbwe do not lose eight of
j tbe lull thta tht bartnony of tbe ooloifc
I must bt maintained w hile > ricbuii. tsid
* xiaitty of color u bf ing tougbt utter
J A bf.autlful write-rj. it' ( . - rtictDtiy ttun hud
a border of butterflie.4 xvicg tciu'hme wing
. -t was all in white Tbe f 01 r wicgk of fb
j lii/'ttrfly were of u jjr-e t'-j. a li me Sal rn
llri-.a , cpj nufcd viii liuttonliole t.i'O : in
xrbluClfi. . loft the goods Pot Btxay
Ih * I P * Th * ldy atiS * e d f UM ? ul-
Tre iforkrO solM la wbttr fi * . <
OIUIK-T
Ot l K > Injun In th * w nr
Wbo tiioxicht Mop th * nirtrtnc train
In wattn t Jxth tmh
Hf xvii t tm -
With W liiwo tarn * * * n f" K ,
And w trh * t > tf tnttto * " * * ? *
Watcbf * till th * wamltw : whlirtl * t tw.
And thfn. us th * n on * T thunder * * by.
H * 1ft hi * trusty 1 flyl
11 rtttnwd rlpht owr tbf rremt itnft * t eU
But th * tnSi dirt'rvd tc U lotwljtimck
And all they found of tiw raHrtitr
flangllng cord nn a llttlt
There's rrxiral flw In thl ? Btipfnt talc
That * ow hew PRFJIt l i to ImU
Whn you trj" to stop with r v Mn * Btr
A ferce timt tliuiifler i through tbe mnfl ;
And I think th ? daroe * In thplr TM'W rrx s fle
Win find thpmM-lvp- f t l cmce
Atid appreciate hoxx the chi -f fllfl IPM
When the ? tr > to la io the flying wheel.
THIE IVOMAV I OCTOIU
Cnrrr f tlir
Plom-fr of II rr Srx.
The first woman dtctor to rccrivca diploma
tram any medical college In this country > r
Buropc was Bllrabetb Blackxvoll. who. at the
age of 7 . has imbllshfd n book of
autobiographical notes calle-d "Pioneer Woik
in Opening tbe Medical Profession to
Women "
Though Imra in England. Dr. IHsckxxell
Is an American by adoption , hax-tnc ; taken
her dcgre-e and purmed the greater
part of her medical practice here
She is noxx living qulPtly In bet
nnthe country , wattbitiK the } < urly
increaEing number of hospitals.
dltpenisarles and nifdlcnl colleges foi
xxomea which are Jlrcctly traceable
to .heir example aal influence.
In 1M7. hoxvex-up , when the >
E icHsh-Amrlc'in girl of 20
battering nt 1sie tloors of
v schoals , the 'd ' a of anv one or all
cf these initilutions vat simply
purulyrlni ; to SOCITXNo end of
funnj incident , and tome which
! . wue far from funay to * he deter
mined little tnf 'iit surrounded her
first .ttteinpt 15 muko licnple be
lieve that her wlrho itudy in dicinr
was not a Jol : * and ; i rath"r im-
prcper joke. Trnm prlxatc U.iuy
'J.p . hud alrij-iy gained mtu h
theorfllcal kuoxil il . > im rbe
wa < ted a prnct'oal ' tours ? In a ic ulnr
college , where she could duly take
her diploma , and to obtain this end
she performed a veritable pllgrini-
nre from one great city to another ,
meeting rebuff onevery band , till
she recorded In her Journal that she
5 "felt as gloomy as thunder "
At last a small but x\ell-knoxxn
medical college in Genex-a N. Y.
elevated Miss Blackxx ell's spirits
Into the spx-enth he ax en b } replying
to her application by a letter , in
xxhich it xxos stated that the lacultj
hud left tbe question of her rntranr <
for the students to decide , that thej
had unanimously paBsc'd a series of
resolutions to the effect that "the
application of Elizabeth Blatknell to
become a member of our class meets
our entire approbation , and we
pledge ourselxts that no conduct of
ours shall cause her to regret her
step. "
Fitiollj the neophyte graduated.
pasting examinations with high
honors ana receiving the diploma
after some hesitation on tbe part of
the faculty , and the title of
"Domina , " vhich. after mort hesitn-
.tton they ttlee-ted as the feminine
of "doctor. "
During tbe summer
vacation preceding ber last year of
college .Miss Blackwell epent some
time in Philadelphia -ttudving in the
female xvurd of the Blockley alms-
house.Hheae the "woman doctor"
was an object of curiosity. ' Stealthy
steps would crep up and down tht
ward and stop outside her door ,
while ejes would be seen peering iu
ut her kejhoie to see what this
strange anoinalj might be up to
Tie young resident phjsicianB
ostentatiouslj wUked out the
ward wheuex-er she xx-alked in. itnd
made a point of forgetting to write
a diagnosis cf each case on a card
at tbe heud of each bed. as was the
custom.
Returning to this city , the at
tempt to e'srnblisb u medical practice
for herself and open the way for
other women was beset with dif-
_ ficultics. many of them curious ones
Doubtless man.x a grim smile was
called up by tbe remembrance of
the objection to women In the profession
trcnuy stated by one physician , who showed
hoxv he feared their rixalry bj asking"Do
jou expect us to furnish jou with a stick
to break our heads with' " And one of
the professors at Genexu college , where D *
Black-well graduated showed a similarly
mistaken notion of tbe rapid success which
would attend a "lady" doctor bj proposing
u professional partnership with her , on
condition of sharing all profits oxer ? SOCI3
on her first year's pinctice
Her first medical consultation wut a funny
cxjKTieiice The physician whom she had
called in , after seeing the patient , accom
panied Dr Blackwell into the parlor and be
gan to walk up and down In great agitation ,
exclaiming. "A most extraordinary cast1 I
really do not know -what to dol"
" 1 listened In surprise and perplexity , as
it was a clear case of pneumonia , with no
unusual danger , until ut latt I discovered
that his perplexity related not to the pa-
tirnt , but to the propriety of consulting
xUth a lady phjblclan. "
The lack of hospitals and dispensaries for
women practitioners here led Dr Blackxx ell
and her friends to establish the Nexx York
Infirmary Jor Women and Children , whose
resident pbjsician was her Finer. Emilj
Blackv ell , who hud followed in he'r path
and graduated ut the ClexelLnd Medical
college. The infirmarj , to w hlch u medicU
colhge has since been added , it now a
flourishing institution. But in 1KS7 there
WLE such opposition to the idea that the
new dlspeniarj found difficult- standing
on HE fe-t. financially. Fenny Kemble WUE
at thut time gixitig u series of Shakes
pearean readings here and often rendered
generous assistance to benevolent inttltu-
tlonE by means of tree readings. Dr Blkck-
vcll x-ibited her in the hope of gaining her
co-operation in this wuj , and the tragedienne
listened with interest until the grasped the
fact that tbe infirmary pbyEicians all be
longed to her own sex , then "rhe sprang
up to her full height , turned her flushing
ejes upon me. and with the deepest tragic
tones of her magnificent xolte exclaimed ,
"Trust u woman us a dot-tor nexe'r1' "
Philadelphia , Boston New York and other
large cities -\\prt beginning , however , to
disagree with Tunny Ktnible. and medical
bcboolk for women weire tsttbllkhe'd in each
of those cities and tie-e. and equal entrance
tt the college * teicure'd for them by JfcCit
whtn Dr Blackwell went to England , where
the found the medical dikpensarj for women
established bj Miss Elizabeth Gurrett whlib
has now grown into the New Hofpital and
London School of Medicine for Wome'n. con-
neictd with , the Royal Prep hospital in * .
prosperous condition Dr Garrett we * the
ploner of the me > dlal ncnemrat unong
English women , one of whose outcomes hLs
been the inp imi.ble blessing to Hindoo
women Lady Dufferin's Mc dicul mission to
the Zenanas.
AE Itr Garre.lt war a pupil and ccmert of
Dr Blackwtdl. it IE but fair to trace the
whole nioxmixnit buck to htir indofattgable
eCuru. which huxe s t the ball rolling in
evcrj direction BO thnt in fveg-y purl ot tht
olx-ilizeid world womeui cen be utcuatid by
their own sex if they desire it , and the
ucinan doctor bus buoome a social oommon-
_ pliu < : Dr BluckwcJl fincJl } returned to
England after living in Ame-rica U > tut tbe
BueKx.strfiil fruitt of her example , tad now
roKldt * at } 1ut.tlncs wheire her intere l iu
rrfurm nu > vejiieiit in ex fry line rciaulus un-
io P ) > ite of bor advunceid t.ge
I'nvliltiii > < > ( < .
The bardy Soottli twtbAc have u favored
place ciuoBg the ceuiwu'E popular lenllt *
Klbbonb ore > ery beautiful tliit year and
rttter i to the < ompot > iuon of many tbarm-
Mubra'iDe CT rcutlmejon jmft w.4 be
tt-ith to LUiuu.ii Led v uj-
ctrt te fit the * rm Jowi } Trt > m
wrlot to bo lpr.
ttttt thtt tmm M > wn t
rren then UM > niiu pk-rwre but art v.trs
tt ny rt tbc rrri Arrm fklrt * 1 B * B
rtrtmq t nfli-BTT for trlRMBlng Ui * bofltrf I *
still tbe Jrtkic tt the fov * vttfn
Mont ctmtltKH' t flmtrteh wUWoxit limit.
New ( .stln fi MH4 UK S ( ! ! > ( *
dul ; rltb polors brocmJed IB raiall
nd Marlv Astrtupttt ptlgti * tb *
under tbrmds impanins a HiiplitJ ! ch tijrpJ J
aWe efwl j
It hat pome to bp quite the tBJi1m t '
wrar i trtpek of tullr in ti nMttmfT > r
grindfttb if wore tJifm.ty nindlni ; nrwral j
tlttH-t Bbotit tb thriHtt tad fltitebing in t. I
big kiKit tt tbe front.
Triple rufflvr fmlchleg tbp top * oJ CM !
rteeipt ; will oontltim to be rwy } H > pBlar
tkroupbout tbe tall WBrtm TlH-y are wir
on tbe .of of tbr i.rin. t | > erlnf : tltn-jst tt >
B fiolut on the anrtrr part.
Plain white sstln inrfapriixelJp4 with
white moiHH-nlaltie de ri ( tHlffpdrfth Yenf-
tlan IBCP tnd Insertion , xvoraulth white bro
caded tuttii slctrtF form utimc of Ihr- wont
elegant and fashionable etenlng toilets of
tht Ht'UMlIl.
In sbopt for dre-nrj vciir pale foft gl cc of
finest quRlltj boldt Its own u InvcrHi design
the Inrpe-tongucd Cromwell with
bud.leB of alitiQUe pllxer. A ] > laln patpnt
leather tipped shoe looks also \erj kinait
xxheu xvorn with a black Bilk stocklug
Dlrectolre beltf are much worn espptlall.x
tor ex tiing drncot * Some of them ure com-
almost entire lj of jewels , are fuie-fl
to tbc figure and are oftt'ii rurxed un'ltr
tbe bust M , xxerp thow that our gtmt
grandmotueis wore xxith their muklln slips
The next CBDPE 8t In at the waist w nh
one point tn the bark uiid txxo pnltts in
front , alii ] the Rlepxes lire full capes either
single 01 double Yards of ribbon are uwO
for drcoratlnn on all rapes , mid high col
Ists ati < 3 ruihes wound the neck are another
dlt-tlnctixe fe.nture.
An attempt will Lgaln be madt thic cxi
tumu to introduce the empire bonnet xmb
the iui'omlng of the closet sleeves and skim
moif sheath-shupcd on the front and slde > s
but Its suet-ess is doubtful although u inod-
ifie-d xersinn is eiteedlnglx unique and its
shape bpcomlng to many w omen.
Some of the beautiful Trench embroid
eries show this summer a delicate bordering
exact ] } resembling In design rnunj of the
exquisite patterns of Honlton guipure Medici
or Irish point Tbene designs ate wrought
upon tbe sheerest of Indian muslin , and
ate designed for skirts flounces and petti
coat fronts , with narroxxer xxidths for the
bodice und sleexes.
The whirligig of fashion bus ruddenly
brought us emce again the hideout , hat xxlth
a conical crown that Is the exact replica
of the tucar-loaf stjle of other duys always
Kuqgektive of xx itches , black cuts and broom
sticks. Some jeurs ago tbe shape wut
known as the Amason. There Is xerj little
brim to speak of. tbe hat is In tact moktlj
crown , tapering upxura In the most ag-
gressixe aspiring manner.
White petticoats haxe declde-dly re-turned
to fax or Thej are xxorn with all kinds of
goxvns and are appropriately elaborate
They are cut of ample width , and tre of
muslin or lawn , trimmed xvlth multiplied
frills , e-dged with lace or embroideij und
perhaps enriched with insertion as xxell
They are so full that a light summer pown
requires no additional support to make it
flare properlx.
The satin band collar , draped or plain , is
still worn , but an addition of some sort IF
made at ahe top. The addition muj con
sist of points , tabs or a ruche of some kind
Often it is a trill of accordion pluitel mus
lin. edged xxlth nurroxv Valenciennes lace
All these arrangements arc kept in position
by means of fine xUres run in invisiblj a >
are the Medici collars which ore also much
xx-orn.
The nexicst of the dressy summer toilets
of thin material haxe the skirts decorated
variouslj xrlth lace-edged ruches fiut bandr
of Insertion alternating xvith nauoxi puffings
that encircle the e-utire skiit tiny frills
overlapping e-.ach other , loufc-pleatings.
Spanish flounces of xurious depths , and Yun.
djke points set Into the gores on tbe front
and sides. However with simple day gowns
there Is nothing more cpproprlate for the
finish of a transparentKklrt thun a broad
hem corefullj measured and neatly laid
The fancj for striking bicycle costumes
xx hlch has rax-aged Paris bus penetrated in
a milder form to England , and rjmptomE of
it hax-e alreadj uppeurc'd here It IE doubt
ful. however , if really ell-droned xxomen
will ever "go in" for anything much more
striking for the bicycle than for horsibaik
exercise. English women indulge in slashed
fklrts of graj. dark blue or ether dull
staid shades , 11. e slashings cxhlbintit an
underskirt of jellow , ted , pink or some other
brilliant color , and the hat being trimmed to
match
Tcr elegant white wool gowns iu to-ilor
style Parisian designers ore ueltig xerx fine
camel's hair or bllky mohair combine J itb
Marie Antoinette brocades In delicate leuelj
patterns on cre'um or Ivory grounds Tbt
most ornate und expensive costumes saitatlc
for dress occasions are garnished xi ith xery
fine gold braid The brotude represents ihe
Louis XIV. waiEtetiat , and the handsume
white x\ool jacket uboxc , lined with white
taffeta. Is simply piped with the gold cord
On less elegant gowns 'the ' Norfolk waist
is edged xxith. fine gold braid , with the ad
dition of tlu > gold and opal buttons by x\.uy \
of garniture. .
F < - in lii I lie Miti > .
Mrs John Morley has presented the Tot
tenham hospital , London , with a gift of
? J.OiO. (
Mrs Humphrey Ward has been ordered
by her pbtician to give up her literary
labors far a long time.
A number ol prominent xxomen of Tas
mania huxp recently organized a large lodge
lor Female Odd FclloxvE
The ex-Empress Eugenie after her ex
tended traxels through Algeria , Spain uid
other countries has now returned to her
residence at Farnborough. England.
Rosa Young , a direct descendant of one
of the Pittuirn mutineers , and a woman o !
considerable intelligence , is writing a his
tory of the Pitcalrn colony.
Miss Bertha ROBSO has been awarded tbe
first prize. R grand piano , in the htiprauc
competition held the other day In London at
the International Musical exhibition.
Mrs. Arthur Jackson of Sheffield. Eng ,
has just presented JliS.OdO to the Sheffield
School of Medicine to endoxu chair ol
anatomy to be nerned after her lute hus
band.
Signora Lola Rodriquez is said to be tb <
grtutesl of lix-lng Spunish poets She is at
intense udvocate of Jubilee for Cubu , und
bus published u volume entitled , "Mi Libre
de Cuba. "
Miss G M Lodge , who IE not yet 17 yean
old , has passed the matriculation eiamina.
tlon of the London university , having tb <
highest uxerage of uny one In the firs !
dixiMon
Miss Mary Kerr of Edlnburg bus received
Irom Washington , D. C. a diploma of bonoi
and a bronze medal for the ingenious astro
nomical globes exhibited bj her at tbf
World's fair
Hon. Ella Scarlett bus Just passed an < !
celleut examination , in London , in anatomy ,
histology and physiology , and after further
perfecting her studies the intends praotlc .
ing medicine in India.
Mrs Puullue. G. Bw&lm hat become join
editor and proprietor of the Oskulausu ( la. ,
HeTuld Bhe is thoroughlj familiar with the
detaiU of the composing room , ilso will :
editorial work Ebe it u college grbduute
The ex-queen of Mudarastur whose hub-
baud has just d ! d ut Algiers. If still at
Antanarix-a. not hax-lug been exiled will
her husband. She HtalCK that she bopd
to remain there the rest of her days. She ii
quite popular xxith the French
Miss Dareiatbta Klumpke , tbe Callfornli
women xxbo hat ucbieieiii suoceks as ai
uMJonorner. and who inuny ytari ego cur
rk'd off u prize of I DUD f ruiicr ofie red b )
tbe Paris observatory , uworapaulod th <
British expedition to Norway to obserxe tbi
eclipse of tbe sun
Ludy Warwick hue opened o milliner ]
fiBUblishment in London. Her name Count
eb8 of Warwick tli.m-p resplendent in gill
) Mfirii tnrr tbr floor Snf 1\n * B frr t
of talent BC to ttav diirrunc of tht > trim-
wing rt batn. Mid nrtibaM ) tut * * * * to BHIV.B
brr frkuflt pay wmr tanry prlrf *
IV RHM M Ms > tw. wbrill rartor njwa
her Tl tbf ! M tt t > tchrr B | ref ( or t
IB UK Vsh mltj of Mleklpam. b i
B Bwfllrnl tratatac In thin po try ana
nn4 I r juTfiral j-wu * pmcMt l mtr-
ta Brooklyn 9hf If UM-
woman raltod ! fill a tf < lT In tin-
er MiniiiRRB.
Th qvrvv tif Crcw 1 * nutrtlhiR the Mitn-
raw upon tb * IxtanJ of rnn-lu. ant fc
tni ; berwlfFt < luovnlx te it i htn
P l itlnp Shr i * BO nrpmuplU.irt < y
omtitu and the bnnnran rank at 84Mlral IB
the Rumian Mivy bttr Ift-n ornifnrod upon
br ot apt-nunt of n < n IUKWW * to pm * ep tbe
i-crwbir crxamituitloo tor h BBillng naMor *
rwtlhcttr
Mr Mbrgatet lx tbr | I * plunntnc tbf tr-
CBnti ) < t < H of B numltci nf Bddttional w rl-
-1 Irf Cbllen ot tbe AtiM-rtcBH Rvoh
tlon lor t-arlj In tb - Jail Tbrrr will Vr
reading rlirlpt drvotpd te Vtnprlrao bitter -
tor } , and cite 1ms tnxlted Prof Hdlie to
prepare u M-t of suitubli biKiKt for tbi xtudy
ol Clilldien pf thr mrrtcan Rrxolutioa A
numl er f pilprlmBBrt. arc liMnc pUlincfl o
iKilntt nf hlstortral lstrre t all national
Ie'irtHbf ! x < 1ll be oWrxed Hnd the
P lle will be i jiowe-r 10 the union
Food
Removes wrinkles and all truces of age-
It fcedi throucli the poles tind buildf up
the futtv mtmbrune nnd xxaMc'tl tissues
nourlshe" . the -brlvelfO and shrunken hkln.
tones utid Inx-lporate's Uie nerxt * and mus
cles , eniicbt-h the impoverished blood res-
nels und supplies youth iind e-lantlclty to
tbe action of the skin It'spvTfeci. .
Bewurp of suliMituti"nnd poutiterfelts
Yule's Oriplnul Skin Tonil price n.M a.nd
$3(10 ( At nil drug Mati
Guide to Beaut } mulled In-p Write for
oneMMC
MMC M TLU Hi-alth nni Ciiinritcsnn
SliftIu.llKt. 1 ule Jimjilt ol Ili'iiuts , 141 bwto
PARROTS
oITi i Hit-in tnK .xcar
cbfiijier thun excr
bi tint ,
Toung Pinj Islani
Pairots
Th' uio'.t
ensiust i nd qir IC"KI ti. 1'iu n 10 talU : umm
all p urom < uilj $ SOO rac-li I bi < > pi Ire In
cludes a shipping cure. L'-Ilm iiurrolt writ
\xitli xu.lu.it > lf dirniM ions utid u wilitiMi guar-
' untoe Lu.rr . scillti I'jirj-ot Cupeh 0 .10 ,
i I'm rots sbippt-d xi itlj jiorfi-cthu.f fty ull ovur
t . b A.
' Geisler's Bird Store , Omaha , M
' Efcta.bHi.hed 18SS
n.
NEW
COLLRR
PftTBOiZ
HOME INDUSTRIES
Y r-urchasng goods made
at the f illo-win Nebras
ka f ctorics If 3oti can
not find -nhut you want ,
communicate : with the
manufacturers as to
xv h a t dealers handle
their goods.
BAGS. BUP.LAP AND TWIKE.
-OltAHA ll.VO CO.
Manufucturerfc of all l.tuda of LOIIOU utifl bur-
lup liuer ' { illiin Iluur tin l.t und * twine a ppe >
lulty. E < - r-ClE 6 Iltli ft
OMAHA IlltilU'l.NG
Cur IciuS thtiimcnu muflLin uur own irfr- .
crater cure , lliut Jtlbbun. UtiitEipnrt. . VJeni
Elliott mid runillj Hijpurt ijejlvtu-fl to ult
of the cltr
IRON WORKS.
IIA VIS A COYVGII.L , IKO1VOKKI. .
Iriui mil ] II r lit. * Ki.uuderx.
MunufikCtureiii und JoUtierE uf Ihcluntrr (24-n-
< Tul rrjikliliiE. c Kpi-claltj Hal. Ijta uud UUS
JMJISTHJAL IIIO.N Ax
MnnufuL-Iurlr.r und rrpalriiic of nil l.ln'j ot
n.uc liliif ry. rnrlnci. puirio , . Llrxutim , Iir nttnc
prtiiiiieR tiuncprR shuftinc uito roujilincB lid unA
HIIS Howard Bl Omatm
I'AXTO.N A. VIKIILrVG IItO >
Muriufnnuitrj of Arctiituruirul Inm M'orl
G Mitral l"uundr > Muciilnr biid lllui-l itmttt wiirk.
Eiurtticeir nnfl CuT.Truptciit lor Pirt 1'riuf Dulld-
Inrc. OMlii' und Korl.t : U P. Ij ma So.
I7th rtrret
NIGHT WATCH. F1KC HERV1CE.
AMBIIICAN IJIS.THICT TiL.BtiUAI' | [ .
Tbe on ! } parfert jirotcctlcr to prnjiert ) Etuin-
Ine a In HI tlilnr on uirtli Ufflu-jia. lui.urunii
rutfc 3iM : DouKluf Ftrcit
SHIRT FACTORim
J. II. 12VA > hM llIIAMvA frJMHT
COMI'.IM * .
cuetuic ( .Inn tu'.lore. 1S1" rurnum.
TENTS AND AWJC1NGS
WOL.I * III OS. JL. CO ,
Manufumuxn. of trni cniiliipi. ,
iTk LUMicit , unfl Eti ! in if. I'K'VTS
JIENT 7 5-7ePl fcoutti Bii.oBntii pftit. Oau.uk.
KIJICATIO AL. .
THE PRIKCETOHYALE SCHOOL ,
DrrctJ Uvulrird und 4ln11
A IIUit < J ultU tbr I'uUrr lIj * * * C'Miuc * ' .
iu ttiuruuirtil > ] irftutt < if'truiuur itu n m ) wttouU
uj ttcieut * tuuJ3 ) bguiio d lintLrdiiir ari < urtuu.iil brw
iLUtliltr .ntnro-irutif } buiiUiut' * * ' ! " ' " "lorn Jiuiruv | k.
n cults' 34 mue VitriiertH njwmdlliit * <
trruinni .r wirt c Urn : | trp | * iriii. rr ti
Cktiitii itt-nr tin lutuvurttttt iiratfVri
unimufa jiu-rfcrr inuKjcKlftiidttOtiu
, Vrivi fur
KDFCA TIOAAL.
L > K l-ji. ; aut ut C nuijili-Uj huj tid i t tUu Cuxuru
inn I wnt ; ; Ani-t laid Aru. j 'JfliCi-r
MAIOP ItkCrCRt ttUlUS , M.t.tUPT..tUlliCTBK , KD