Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, June 28, 1896, Page 11, Image 11

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WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
MONT \im.iji : .
ClllirilllllU' r'l-OI'1.0 , l.ollliulllir CJlM HN ,
'tin 11 liftJut'kilH , Silk \VritliK , 13l f.
NEW YORK. Juno 25.-No garments are
more unlvrrcnlly becoming to tlie KVS than
Mimmcr negliges.
Unlit up of nlry textiles and fluttering
with ribbons nnd tnlsty lne.es , they com
bine tliu graces of coquettish femininity
with luxurious cnse , I'lnln IndtCtl would
bo the woman whose tlinrms arc nut en
hanced by a lounslng rig thnt shown any
degree of prcttlncss ; mid when worn by
a woman not plain , the Fort whose
clothoH are a part of her , the possibilities
of n graceful neglige are unlimited.
The lounging clot lies of the present fon-
BOII nro moru charming than ever and arc
yet of a delightful simplicity.
They comprise' lea gowns , matinees , slm-
CIIEPON AND EMBROIDERED LINEN.
pie wrappers for bedroom use , and dainty
costumes , In two pieces , called breakfast
frocks , that all the world may see.
The breakfast frocks arc made of fig
ured and striped muslin , Indian dimities
and lawns and are trimmed often with a
profusion of lace and ribbon.
They combine a gored skirt , with one
orhrcc narrow lace-edged mines , and a
loose bodice made on the matinee order.
This Is girdled gracefully and trimly at
the waist with a ribbon belt , which fin
ishes at the front or left side with a bow
and streamer.
A deep sailor collar edged with a fall of
BREAKFAST SACQUE OF EMBROIDERED
BATISTE.
lace and surmounted by a ribbon stock Is
ono llnlsh for the neck.
SLEEVES AND SACQUES.
Another Is a scarf arrangement of the
frock material , frilled with lace and draped I
around ( he shoulders to fall In ends held I
down with ribbon rosettes at each side of
the bust. This style of bodice decoration Is
equally charming on slight as well as
rounded figures. Sleeves of breakfast
frocks arc commonly three-quarter length
bishop shapes , with soft turn-back cuffs era
a fall of lace at the hand. Many of thu
odd snug models of dressier sleeves also
sometimes appear In the more expensive
VIOLET DIMITY MATINEE.
costumes , but the cocl bishop design is
moru popular for hot weather wear.
There are likewise breakfast frocks of
embroidered muslin and dotted Swiss , thu
ribbon trimmings of the latter matching the
black or colored spots. Tlie lact > s used on
these little costumes anil other easy home
rigs ure of many varieties ami qualities.
Valenciennes In pure white and pale yel
low Is much In favor and tbero are cheap
point d'itprlt lucrs with a pointed or scal
loped edge that are most effective. An In-
lertlou of black or whit * footlni ; will be
vJ
seen on some of the thinnest materials , ami
if 'he goun is not to be washed there may
be dnlnty quillings of tin ; same as a heading
lo another trimming.
IN MANDAU1N YELLOW.
A lireal.fast frock Just Imported for n
July bride of mandarin yellow dimity with
a trimming of whlto and jellow footing.
A frilled gored skirt , nnd an unllned sur
plice bodice comprised ln ! > mode ! nnd any
thing lovelier than the get up could not
be imagined.
The skirt \vu full , with that umbrella
fullness \\hlch fits the hips without n wrin
kle and shows flouncing petticoats ut every
movement. At the bottom there were live
narrow kllt-plaltlngs surmounted by a lit
tle iiullllng of yellow footing nestling In
line ofhlte. .
The fronts of the surplice bodice , which
ended In long scarf ends , were to cross at
the bust , milking n V-inpt-il neck nnd tic
nt the waist in the back In n soft bow.
The white nnd yellow quilling also edged
these completely , but with this exception
there wns no other trimming on the bodice
Itself. On the other hand , the three-quarter
bishop sleeves v.cro nothing but trimming.
At the top a close-fitting enp KX ! Inches
deep was shirred In the putt between tiny
rows of the footing quilling. Delow this
the puff was crossed In great squares by
footing InscrtloiiH , nnd at the bottom of
this again , and just below the elbow , there
were snug cuffs to mutch the cap nt the
top of the alcoves.
A whlto taffeta ribbon rosette nt each
shoulder scam of the bodice , nnd at the
outer line of the I'liffs , wns the final finish.
IN SIMI'LER STYLES.
Many very fetching nepllges may be
found ready made 111 the shops nt prices
astonishingly low. Pretty wrappers of
American lawn , trimmed nt the collar and
cuffs with lace and belted with ribbon ,
can be had as low as $1.
Others of wash silk nnd white nnd col
ored pongee sell from $9 up , the more ex
pensive pongee affairs often showing drawn
threads ami delicate needlework In white
or colored silk. At the buck of the Mlk
or pongee wrapper or gown there may bo
n yoke , shirred or plain , or n Watteau ef
fect In double plaits.
The front hangs loose from the shoul
ders and Is tied nt the neck with ribbons
nnd perhaps girdled at the waist ; then
there nre soft turnover collars and square
turn back cuffs to the bishop sleeves , on
which the needlework will appear , In
drawn threads , feather-stitch herring bone
nml dots.
The bottom of the gown may be plainly
hemmed or else show several wide tucks.
1'ICTUHESQl'E EFFECTS.
Made In this way the English silk
house. Liberty's , yearly send over silk ,
ctcpe and pongee gowns that arc as beau
tlful as durable.
They make no pretense of following the
prevailing styles , but have n plcturesqueness
all their own. All are made with an eye to
becomlngness , and many of the more elab
orate designs have that clinging sentimental
air that ever since the aesthetic craze has
distinguished English house gowns. Hut It
Is a vastly becoming nlr If all women would
only know It.
A trimmed silk petticoat In gay colors
nnd a matinee Jacket In delicate wash cot
tons Is a charming and quickly accomplished
neglige.
French women go so attired even to the
luncheon table the "fork breakfast" as thin
meal Is called , Even If sudden visltoru
should appear there Is no embarrassment
over the get up ; In her elaborate silk petti
coat and trimly girdled matinee nmdamo Is
wearing the most becoming clothes In her
wardrobe and so sets the fashion for thu
world.
Many of the silk wrappers and lounging
gowns have wide loose sleeves In Imitation
of the Japanese Klmonas. The looped
sleeve Is made of one long shapeless length
of silk put In without fullness. Klmona fashIon -
Ion , and of course the fronts arc folded
black a la Japonals.
For young matrons a neat compromise
for easy lines will be found In the matinees
that have Jacket fronts.
A fichu vest , with long scarf ends that
hang loose from the figure may be Inside
but the back can be fitted to the waist
with scams or else be girdled with a ribbon
FOR THE UOQ DAYS.
Numbers of the gowns , wrappers nnd Jack
ets for the hottest weather have the necks
illghtly decollete , cut round or else in the
little Marguerite square.
Among the trimmings fine cambric head
ings run with ribbons are extensively used.
Several matinees seen , one of fine white
mull , and another of sheerest nainsook ,
had big ornamental collars made In alter
nate rows of Dresden ribbon nnd footing of
lace. Other ribbons seen nro plain satin ,
anil figured and striped taffetas , and a glitter
ing wash ribbon In whlto and palo colors.
Along with the negliges may be men
tioned the shirtwaists < whlch nro being
made with soft turn back collars and cuffs.
These are seen In the grass linens and many
dainty dimities , lawns and batistes and may
bo plain or lace trimmed , simple or elegant ,
as thu buyer chooses. Worn with scarf
ties they are delightfully cool and will be
found wlso purchases for midsummer.
NINA FITCH.
I'AIVI'KIl FACKH.
TinFliNt Clinriii of n Wuiiinii ! -
Hlrii.i i > i | | i- 111 , . IlniiKiI'ol. .
In spite of salves and oils and perfumes
and baths , 110 woman ever had so much
care taken of her .health and her person
as the modern woman has , says Herpcr's
Bazar. Indeed , fo thoroughly Is thu care
given nowadays that the unpleasant term
"well groomed" is applied to It , UH If the
object of the cnro were placed In the same
category with the brutu animals. For it
Is somewhat of n "horsey" age , and to call
a woman a thoroughbred Is considered by
many men , and women , too , the best that
can bo said of her.
Although in classic times tha bath seems
to have been onu of the chief features of
life , yet In the mediaeval days so had
things changed a lady's toilet , If not by
any means a thing of brief or slight matter ,
had very little to do with the bath. When
her hair was pomaded anil braided with
Jewels , and her head-dress , her gowns and
gear were arranged , the thing was done.
Nor wan there much bathing donu In tlie
days of rougu and patches. Even less than
a hundred years ago the habit of frequently
bathing the entire person was called by
good , .old , careful housewives a "nasty
French fashion ! "
At thu present day the first charm of a
woman Is the bctisu of cleanliness about
her thu bloom on her sweet skin , the lus
ter In her hulr , the sparkle of her teeth.
This cleanliness It Is her wlso effort lo
maintain , and If the least particle of what
Is known as "making up" should become
apparent about her , shu knows her charm
is lost. The rouge pot , the hare's foot , the
pencil for the eyebrows , the coral lip-salve
If there Is a suspicion of the use of any
of these , there will bo left a Ulnt , a sug
gestion of uneleanllness In thu beholder's
mind , which utterly destroys anything ac
complished by skill In the pictorial line ,
for no one who U not virtually an artist
can use these articles so that she will not
bu discovered ; and shu who Is discovered
bears not only the stigma of having failed
In her purpose , of the vanity of caring
too much for her appearance , but of having
tried to cheat and been unsuccessful in
that also. For thu woman who makes up
lu her dressing room never known exactly
what thu effect Is going to bu In the full
sunshine of outdoors , and shu who pow
ders and paints and pencils In the daylight
has no notion of the effect of her work
by caudlellghv. and kbu who puts on her
bUmuth and her antimony , and goes to
bail or theater , docs not know at what
; moment the gns from the chandelier , ot
from other sources. Is to streak her with
moldy grren and bistro-brown and blue.
The good grooming of the bath , the brisk
| rubbing of the brush , Is really all-sufllclent
whcnvcr there Is any good degree of health.
{ ! | Those whom thnt does not make lovely
will never look lovely In false colors , and
It will make every ono who Is at nil whole-
Home nnd henlthy look more so , nnd in
the lone run the wholesome look Is the
greatest nttrnetlon of all. For when the
beauty of early years has faded , the per
fectly healthy woman who never had
beauty Is bound to bo more attractive than
she who has neither beauty nor health ,
health Itself being n beauty , and continu
ing u beauty into old ace.
It IH fortunate that coed breeding and
good taste have now become so general
and that the liner world has so much to
preoccupy Its thought and activity that
the fancy for heightening or for Interfering
TWO TE.
with the work of nature is found only In
the most feather-brained and empty-headed.
SCOI.UI.VC WOM13.V.
Formerly n firi-nUT PoM In Ki
Tlinii nt < ! " I'rcHfitt liny.
Formerly the "common scold" the woman
who made her neighbors' lives Intolerable
With her raging temper , her bitter tongue ,
her slanders and calumnies was found ev
erywhere. Laws were passed recognizing
her as one kind of criminal. There were
two forms of punishment , says the Phila
delphia Ledger , by which she was repressed
or deterred , or cowed Into gentleness , viz. ,
the ducking stool and ( he brank. The duck
ing stool assumed various shapes , but It
generally consisted of a chair on one end
of a beam , which rested on a bar so as to
make a see-saw. Sometimes the chair was
hung from the beam by a chain. The cul
prit being tied on the chair , the other end of
the beam went up and the chair went down
Into the water , aoiy.lng the woman com
pletely. They did" this three times , after
which they let her go.
Such stools belonged to nearly every par
ish ; like the stocks and the plllary , they
formed part of the furniture of Justice. For
Instance , about London. There was one on
Bankslde with which they duckeu the wives
of the players. There was one at Hatcltffe :
one at Klngston-on-Thames , and there was
one which stood till the beginning of this
century beside the great pond or reservoir
of the Green park.
Apparently the chair and the cold bath
did not completely destroy the female ten
dency to scold , for It was found necessary
to Invent another punishment , which was
extensively adopted , although not author-
Ijcd by the lav- . This was the "brank , " or
"scold's bridle , " which consisted of a small
engo formed by Iron hoops to fit the head ,
with a piece of Iron which pressed the tongue
nnd formed the gag. Thus adorned , the
scold was either lid or carried about the
town for nil the world to see. Sometlrscs
she was placed on a high scaffold. The
brank was used in some places down to the
beginning of the century. Its disuse. Its
disappearance , the universal oblivion of the
punishment , make one Incline to the belief
that the scold has alee disappeared. How
ever , such Is not the case. The disease or
Infirmity of scolding still exists , but In a
much milder form. The mildness of the
modern form is mainly duo to the Improved
conditions of life.
Two hundred years ago the village house
hold was Insufllclcntly fed. the quality as
well as the quantity of the food war bad ,
work wns hard , men were rough , husbands
bent their wives habitually ; In cold weather
they were thinly clad ; In hot weather their
clothes were too thick. If there was any
Indulgence possible it took the form of beer.
Tea did not exist. Children , hungry nnd
cold , cried all day nnd all night ; everything
combined to exasperate a woman. What
wonder If , from time to 'line , she lost con
trol of herself and became copiously elo
quent over her wrongs ? Things have greatly
Improved. The huauuml no longer or vcr )
seldom beats his wlfo ; the food has become
cheap ; wages have gone up ; luxuries for
merly unattainable Imvc becoino neces
saries : the scold Is dying out of the land ,
because there Is so little left to scold about.
SIMS M nil .MKIIIKWOIIK. :
llntl ( \VorUril in Coloi-M Siiii | > rNt > il-
IliK AVIillc l.llH-H for tin'I'lililc * .
Among the really dainty and delicate fash
ions , which have been highly appreciated ,
and Justly BO , Is that of embroidered white
linen for table use , but even that has al
ready begun to pall upon a satiated pub
lic , and Is being supplanted , temporarily at
least , by a very different style of work , B | >
though It will revive in time , no doubt.
It 1s too appropriate and beautiful not to
have a continual support from many of
Its admirers. Those who have wearied of
It will return to Its charms with renewed delight -
light after the departure of the craze for
strength of tone and brilliancy of coloring ,
which is apparent In everything , from mi
lady's bonnet and gown to the smallest
plcco of domestic decoration.
After this prelude It Is obvious to the
reader that embroidery , that engrossing fem
inine occupation and recreation , Is In n
transitory state , From whlto linen worked
in pale colors , or pure whlto silk , we pass
to grass linen shades , done lu strong Ori
ental colors anil designs. In spite of their
foreign endorsement , they naVft , , not become
popular here , nor arc there.iulcntlons | | that
they will Increase In favor. , "
The work most liked JuriK ! ) the past
winter for household decoration , cofa pil
lows , etc. . has been the Hul arlAn , which
U of strong eastern or OrUuital type of
coloring ; only conventional' i designs are
used and heavy cotton tlir ad. fills In an
outlining of black , on a buff or ecru back
ground. Effective ! Stylish , ! ypu may say.
Yes. but not dainty or suHtid to table use.
For the latter the snmo .effect . of color
Is obtained In thin batiste.Jccornted with
colored silks , while grass illuens , nnd nlso
those of pink , green , vlokt. yellow , etc. ,
nri < much In vogue. The iliattstes , worked
cither In harmonious colors -or In pure
white , nnd covering mahogany or other
hard wood tables , nre the prettiest cx-
ponrnts of this new phase In table adorn
ment.
A decided Innovation In this latter In
troduces an open work medallion Into the
design stamped upon the batiste. This Is
cut out , nnd button-holed closely about
Its edge. Then construction lines of heavy
linen thread are laid ns In nil drawn work
and the oval l filled In with nn ns elabo
rate design ns the embroiderer's skill or
tnney dictates. To bo absolutely correct
and up to date these must be made by
hand , but nny delicate Inco medallions
may be npplled , giving , It not the snme
effect , one at least approaching It. and the
great difference In time and skill required
to put the former In place , will enhance
the charms of the latter to sueh n degree
thnt we may bo easily Induced to regard
It with almost equal approbation. Of course
these especial bits of decoration only occur
nt Intervals In the piece , nnd nre con
nected by n grncetul , running vine , or fern ,
or a well drawn conventional scroll or
figure. These hints may prove of value to
Homo who 'arc yet uncertain ns to whnt
to choose for summer work , and If followed
may be relied upon to supply a stock of
5A GOWNS.
artistic house and talile decorations for
next winter , while the favorites of a year
ago take a well-earned rest.
AH'CIIKHY TUAS.
iylruii iic-liililllty anil .Sportvltli
Ito vK mill Arrinvs.
One of the favorite entertainments this
summer with the society girl Is going to be
the archery tea and sport with bow and
arrows.
This classical and aristocratic game Is be
ing revived , and with great enthusiasm ,
perhaps not so much on Us own account as
a pastime , "as for the picturesque oppor
tunities It offers for a festive outdoor frolic.
For the archery tea , which Is modeled
somewhat upon the lines of a garden party ,
Invitations are cent out for 4 of the after
noon , and a me/derate degree of promptness
is desirable upon the part of the guests ,
that the games , which precede tea , may have
some show.
Indeed , the result of the sport Is impor
tant , as the lucky Diana who wins the most
gelds or , In other words , hits the bull's eye
the greatest number of times receives a
prize.What
What the prize may be Is only revealed
when tea Is served , and the gift la found
reposing beside the fair winner's plate.
She also finds other gifts , second , third
and fourth prizes , nnd these she has the
pleasure of giving to the other victorious
archeresscs.
The prizes for the men arc distributed
by the girl who earns the lowest score , and
who also comes In herself for a prize a
"consolation prize , " as Aur. ' ngllsh cousins
' 1M ' '
would say.
'
SERVING TEA.
Tea IB served at small ttahles. each decorated -
rated to represent a target.Vtho gold center ,
banded with red , blueliaml white. These
variously colored rings are formed of flowers ,
spaces being left between for thu dishes.
The menu Is written prv target cards. In
addition , a floral canopyiattangcd In colored
circles to correspond wlth : > tue table decora
tions Is suspended over -.each table , thus
giving a picturesque ftnl/shlng touch.
A number of teat * will bo given during the
EcaMjn , and each will be specially designated
for Instance , the Vulo of Archer's tea ; the
Forest of Ardcn tea ; the Toxophllite tea ;
the Forest Archery tea , and so on.
An archery tournament lu being arranged
for August. Among the glils who will talco
part are Miss Sloane. MUs Francis Ivcs. Mis *
Webb , Miss I'arsona , .Miss Vamlerbllt and
possibly Miss Virginia Fair , who ia clever
at all gumcs and always u formidable antag
onist.
The challenge prize will be for n silver
arrow and -vhat Is termed the Columbia
round will be the range shot ; this consists
of twenty-four arrows each at fifty , forty
and thirty yards. And all the maidens who
Intend taking part In thu contest have be
gun the btudy an well as the practice of the
"five points of urrhery. " viz. , standing , neckIng -
Ing , drawing holding and loosing
TECHNICALITIES OK THE GAME.
In taking position , or "standing , " the
keels must be about six or debt inches
npnrt. with the feet flat nnd firm on the
ground ; the knees must bo perfectly
fttralght. not bent In the slightest degree ,
with the weight of the body thrown equally
on both legs ; In short , the footing must bo
firm , yet at the same tltno easy and
springy.
In "nocking" place the arrow on the
string at the spot prepared for It which
Is about a qnnrtor of an Inch above the
upper end of the handle , catching the fling
with two or three fingers and the arrow
between the first nnd second.
In "drawing" stand with the left shoul
der toward the target , turning the head
only front the neck , nnd looking over the
left shoulder. Then raise the bow with the
left hand , keeping the upper etid Inclined1
one or two degrees from the body ; with the
right hand , draw the nrrow to the level
of the chin , and below the ear.
In "holding , " when the nrrow Is finally
drawn , dwell for n moment or two to steady
the nlm nnd keep the point of nltn directly
In view , looking along the whole length of
the nrrow. In "loosing , " do not Jerk , but
loose smoothly , nnd bo certain that your
bow arm docs not move when loosing ; to
get a clean , sharp loose Is half the game.
TECHNICAL TERMS.
Not only are members of the archery clubs
becoming Initiated Into the mysteries of
these five points , but they arc studying also
the technical terms. In order to astonish
Miolr friends with the amount of their knowl
edge of archery lore. For Instance. It Is dis
tinctively smart to call three arrows "a
pair , " and not to speak of them as three
arows ; this Is correct. In archery , on ac
count of the liability of one nrrow to break.
The "petticoat" or "spoon" Is the grounl
of the target beyond the white , while the
cock-feather is that feather on the nrrow
which Is uppermost nml of the darkest color.
That arrow Is n "gone , " or a "wide" when
It may , from Its night , be Judged to fall wide
of or far from the mark. An archer Is
"over bowed" when the power of her bow
ls nbove her command ; ' 'under-bowed" ' > ; ncn
using n bow that Is too weak to shoot well
with.
In choosing a bow , get ono thnt Is under
rather than over tiio strength which one
can use without dllllculty. Hews nro made
of three pieces , two pieces and one piece ,
and nro called "three-woods. " "two-woods , "
and "self. " Hews for the use of women
are about flvo feet In length nnd arrows
twenty-five Inches long , and It ia always
n saving In the end to buy the very best
arrows In the market. They cost from ? 4
to $0 n dozen nnd the purchaser must sec
to It that the nrrow Is quite straight ; this
can be done by bringing the tips of the
thumb and first two fingers of the left hand
together nnd laying the arrow on them
while turning It round by the right hand-
It It goes smoothly It Is straight ; if it
jerks at all It Is crooked. As to a bow
one mndo of yew Is the best , nnd It can
cost J200 , If money burns In your pocket ;
the cheapest bows are made of Inncewood.
backed with hickory and cost about $10.
In purchasing the bow see that It tapers
gradually from the handle to the horns ;
that the wood Is of straight , even grain
and that the handle In not quite In the
middle of the bow , but the upper edge of
It Is about an Inch above the center ,
As to targets the selection Is not n mat
ter of great Importance , that Is , ono target
Is about ns good as another. Sotno one
saucily declares that the targets oftcncst
hit are not In the game- Dan Cupid not
choosing to be beaten nt his own little game ,
purposely misdirecting a pretty girl's
weapon.
. \T T1IK XATIOXAI. COXVI2XTIOX.
Many Charming < mn'ii VlNlfot-M nt
SI. 1nils.
Not tiio least of the many Interesting
phases of convention life , says n writer In
the St. Louis Republic , have been the many
charming women visitors In St. Louis. Mrs.
Fred Grant takes precedence by virtue of
her husband's prestige , combined with her
own happy personality. During the various
social affairs at Washington , where she
spends most of her time , she Is frequently
taken for her sister , Mrs. Potter I'nlmer.
"Yes , " she said to me on one occasion , "I
frequently shine In my sister's glory , but
while I am obliged to say noI am not Mrs.
Palmer. I feel flattered at the resemblance
always. " Mrs. Grant Is one of the best
entertainers In the land , and her dinners
are always a delightful combination of good
eating and a number of congenial souls.
She Is an excellent conversationalist , with
more warmth of manner and geniality than
Mrs. Palmer ever exhibits. She lacks , however -
over , the little touch of style and carriage
which has made the latter woman EO far
famed for beauty. She Is greatly Interested
In political life , nnd Is "up" on the money
question to a charming degree. She always
enjoys St. Louts , and has been enjoying her
four days here listening to speeches and
attending to some social life also. I re
gretted not seeing Miss Teller , who was to
liavo been here with the senator during his
stay In St. Louis. She Is a beautiful girl ,
with a great love for music , which has
made her an excellent player. She was a
belle even among the greatest of belles
during the World's fair social functions , and
our St. Louis beaux would have been
charmed no doubt to have extended to her
the graclousness of their attentions. She
Is such a prime favorite with her father , ono
has but to mention her-name to have n
happy smile appear , which even the worry
of the silver question cannot destroy. Miss
Teller Is also a linguist , speaking several
languages fluently. If the fates should or
dain thnt the senator should ever sit In
the president's chair , his pretty daughter
will bo ono of the great attractions of the
executive mansion.
I could but watch Mrs , Thurston's un
tiring Interest as Eho sat hour after horn-
on the Auditorium stage. I suggested later
that she must be fatigued , and she replied :
"Oh , I love to have Mr. Thurston appro-
elate how proud I am of him , and how
Interested I am In nil his work. No , I
Xli"
v *
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, 'lr ; AllCIIBUY TOUHNAMBNT.
do not care to vote , but I want to know all
about It. "
Mrs. Thurston has spent a great deal
of time In Washington , and entertains a
great deal , with the true western cordiality.
She has enjoyed her visit hero greatly , and
thinks the Planters Is the finest hotel In
the United States , both for services and
looks. While attending to the duties of
political life , Mrs. Thurston gives much
attention to rrllstlc matters , of which she
Is a great lover.
Governor Grosvenor eoes to few places
minus the ladles of his family , and one
does nut wonder at this after having met
both ladles thu past week. They were
among the few prettily gowned women
at the convention , and seemingly enjoyed
It all. Miss Grosvenor was the object of
much attention during her stay here. Shu
is a particularly good musician , und has
studied abruud. She sings well , and has
much of that happy personality for which
her distinguished father Is noted. As an
assistant preslder over the state executive
mansion , she contributes her grace and
savolr falro to all the social functions.
The moat popular woman with men
and women alike has been .Mrs. Colonel
Swords. She came with the colonel when
the first meeting of the national committee
was held. Her room was constantly crowded
with distinguished friends , and the best of
harmless political chat I heard IIHTC. She
ia remarkably well Informed In til phases
of social and political life , .vlth u memory
for faces and names most btncfldil 10 her
husband. The colonel U a particularly
handfomo man , and evinces prent admiration
for his Interesting wife. They were for-
meily from Iowa , but of late months 1'nvo
lived In New York , where both trc valued
members of society.
Mr * . Hanna , with her daughter , has en
joyed a week In St. Louis. Wheeling was of
special Interest to the younger woman , nrd
she never tied of riding through Fonst
park. She loves this belter , she onys. than
politics , nlthotigh proud to belong to ono
of Ohio's lllg Four during this convention.
I met nnd tnlkcd with nil the ladles of tbe
political party , and ns far ns I umld linrn
not one of them enred to vote , 'cellng , ns
Mrs. Swords said , quite willing to leave It
to the men of the household. I suggested
this condition of affairs ns pecullir to Mrs.
Ellen Foster , nnd she replied : "Oh , It's nil
wrong. We must have a voleo In politics
sooner or Inter. "
The republlcnn pnrty evidently Intends It
to be Inter , since they only smllo "good-
naturedly" over this stiffrntje question to
fnr Hut It wo might nil be Ellen Kostors.
with the snmc happily broad Intellect cud
none of the pettiness likely to bob out nt
Intervnls , then I might favor the woman
voter.
Fnililnit Note" ,
The hat that Is tilted right over the nose
Is the fashionable lint pro tern.
Penrls nre In grenter demand than ever ,
ntul nre largely used for necklnces.
Opnls remain fashionable , ntul ecrtnlnly
lend themselves well to the lapidary's art.
The rnge for belts of every description
Increases rnthcr than lessens ns the season
ndvnnces.
The favorite sleeve of the season combines
n short puff with mousquctnlrc fullness to
the wrist.
The peculiar greens nnd blues that pre
vail In dress fabrics nre shown In enamels
on gold and silver.
lllch Perslnn silk vests will be worn with
stylish white costumes of English scr e eta-
mlno. mohair , pique nnd cnnvns.
Although the severe coat sleeve Is pre
dicted for cnrly full , it hns so fnr ben only
In conjunction with n few plain tailor
gowns ,
Flowers and scrolls represented in bril
liants nre arranged as n pcndnnt , which Is
also adapted for wearing In the hair , or ns n
brooch.
Dlnmond aigrettes and hair ornaments of
exquisite design nro among thu sparkling
fascinations thnt rivet attention In Jewel
ers' showcases.
Smnrt little summer Jackets , cut variously
In Hussion. Eton nnd Spanish shapes , nc-
company thu shirt waists that nre again
the rage this season.
Grass-lawn pocket handkerchiefs arc the
latest development of the craze for this liny-
colored textile , that Is unbecoming to nlno-
tenths of the' women who wear It.
The huge tulle bow , however. Is of the
past. Its popularity wns limited nnd Us
downfall not dlllleult to foretell. Much ns
the material Is liked , the bow Is not becom
ing and was foredoomed.
Ono elegant French dress of black fancy
grenadine has an underdress of gold-colored
satin duchess , nnd the waist Is trimmed very
elaborately with black lace and Jet and gold
passementerie.
Black satin brocade dresses of pictur
esque effect nre In princcssc style fnstcned
up the back , cut pompadour front and back ,
and finished with puffed slashed sleeves that
barely reach the elbow.
The now , very fine , double-width light
weight English serges rival the mohairs ,
brilllantlnes. and nlso the fine French flan
nels which have so long been considered In
dispensable In thu make-up of an outing
wardrobe.
Among the dainty evening waists Is one
of Nile green satin , draped with mousselalnc
do solo , and worn with n skirt of dark green
brocade. The brctcllcs and ceinture are of
dark green velvet , edged with pearl , opal
and emerald bead gimp.
There Is for the moment a great liking
for the bird of paradise plumage , and on
very expensive Imported hats the entire
bird appears. Even the plumage , however ,
of this bird is costly , nnd there nre really
more Imitations of the gracefully nrchlng
feathers than of the real upon hats of me
dium price.
Persian belts In gold woven galleon and
linked patterns , of fine rolled gold , In me
dallion effects , nre the first choice to wear
with round-walstcd gowns made of elegant
material , and belts of very clastic webbing
are covered with spangles , so closely lapped
that no matter how much the belt Is
stretched In adjusting It , the webbing foun
dation is still covered with the glittering
paillettes ,
Fu in I ii I ii tNute * .
Princess Beatrice is nn accomplished mu
sician and reads the most difficult music
at sight , She is now composing an era
torio.
Miss Glleon , a Cincinnati school teacher ,
lost her Job by carrying flowers and deli
cacies to Scott Jackson , the murderer of
Pearl Bryan.
The Baroness von Ebcr-Eschcnbach Is not
only a celebrated novelist , but likewise n
practical watchmaker. Her remarkable col
lection of watches has had many wonderful
accessions.
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe Is younger even
at 77 than she was when Oliver Wendell
Holmes called her " 70 years young. " ghc
preserves with her advancing years n flue
.enthusiasm for everything of feminine in
terest.
Mrs. Ollplmnt's new monograph Is about
completed and will be published under the
title of "Jeanne D'Arc , " as she prefers that
to the usual name of Joan of Arc. It will
bo one of her scries of "Heroes of the Na
tions. "
Mrs. Basil Holmes is writing a book upon
the doleful subject : "The London Burying
Grouuds. " Shu will give the antlqualriau
details of burial grounds lu nil ages , and
the treatise will be a historical feature of
London.
The first woman who has received the per
mission of the minister of public Instruc
tion to attend lectures In the University of
Munich Is Miss Ethel Gertrude Skcat. daugh
ter of Prof. Skeat , the eminent philologist.
Mrs. Fassett , the author of numerous
poems and hymns , has from time to time
received royal approbation from Queen Vic
toria , nnd now her majesty has conferred
upon her a literary grant of } 500 from
the royal bounty fund.
Miss Margaret Cresswell receives $3,500
a year for acting as postmistress In Gib
raltar. The Gibraltar mall cannot be very
heavy , for Miss Cresswell at the same time
acts as superintendent of all the postofflccs
on the North African coast.
Fran Emllo Kempln , the only lady prac
ticing law In Berlin , has opened a new of
fice In Unter den Linden. Hho formerly
studied law in this country , practiced In the
city of New York and later lectured en
English and American law at Zurich uni
versity ,
AIlss Elenor A. Ormcrod , the most dlstln-
( Sillily tlilH out mill try It yuurNflf. )
Who can form the ureuli-ft number nf wor.ls
from tlic let ten. In I'ONTISSTA.NTH by utlnir
them backward or forwuril ? You aru trniirt
fnouKh to make tlfui-n or mole wunl * . < lerl
sure , anil If you Uo you will rtcelir a KOOI ! le-
wanl. Uo not mo any It-tier more ( linen than
II appear * In Hie w.rd. litre In un example of the
way to work It out : Ton. cunl , i-oai. on. ten
to , eat , etc. Tlie iiulilliherH f WUMAN'K
WOllU ) AND Ji.NNiSH ; Mllljit MONTIII-Y
will i y W In Kiil.l . | U the i r.cii al.lc | U i'u& !
the larifest lift of words fiom the IctUm In
the word CONTB8TANTH ; JC for tlie n-con > l
larKvrl ; IS for the t.ilnl ; J3 for Ilic fourth , nnd
il to the flail , und u Imly'H humlromv Ainvrlfiin
movement watch lor eac'i of thu trvt-n next
lurtrefct l ! t . The above reward * nre Klven frtc
and without cunplileratlon fur lti iiuriHirv nf at
tracting attention to our hunilkumr uml valuable
laillet * masntlnr , twenty-four pugm. ninety -
tylx lontf columnc , finely UluMratiMl
and all urlxlnal matter , Ionic uml khort
Horlce by thu btt-t author * : prli'e II ( > J
per > ear. It in nvcewury for you tc , imil
twelve two-cent i > t m | > for a thrte month * '
trial kubucrlptlon with your 1IU nf worcli. ami
e-u-ry | wr on vendlni ; 21 cent * nml u ll t of 11 f-
tce-n wont * pr more li guaranteed an extra pret-
ent by U-turn mall ( In addition to the manuztne ) .
uf u liirue iw-pase book , "IH > IJe.t ! Itonnle Itrlar
lludi. " by Ian .Maclart-n , one of the moni fund-
natliiK botiUe of the liftKntlrfactlon guaranteed
In every cajo or your money rc/umleil. I.ln
nhould Lc tent at once , and not later than July
21 , to that the name * of vuccevtful cnntevUntH
may be In the tieiitemUr Utuv. [ 'Ubllxhed in
Auvuit Our publl Jlln ha * Urn e taldl hp < l
nine year * . We refer you to any mercantile
agency for our ( landing Urllt mw Aildrrr *
J 11 I'Ll'MMtnt. I'ubllihtr , M TwnUe Court ,
New rcrk City.
. i won-.Xi ontomoloslat In the worlh (
has decided lo present her costly collection
Illustrative of agricultural entomolony ,
which Is now on exhibition nt St. Albnusrf
England , to the nuthotltli-a of the t'nlvcr *
slty of Kdlnbttrg.
Miss Winnie Simpson of Onrflcld'a li.
makes qulio ,1 tnug amount of pin money
by shooting tqiilrrclF. She handle * n gutr
to better effect than many of llir men lu
that region , her average being thirty a lffIsJ
n day. She also distinguished lioifrU Intrlyi
by winning the fitst pilze In nn oratorical
contest open to both sexes.
Mljs B. llootli presided the other evening
at the mass meeting held In Exrtrr Hall ,
London , where she iniulo nn eloquent nd-
dress nnd took formal Irnve of the members
of the English Snhntlon army before em-
barklnr ; for America to take charge nf the
Canadian branch of the Pahntlon ntmy.
Miss Elizabeth 1'eiklns. n pretty Klrl. do-
tnure nnd unassuming , heads the Newport
heiresses.Vlthln n few yenrs she will oomo
Into the fortune left by her grandfather , the
late Stephen Weld of Boston. He beiiurnthcil
her and her two granddaughters $17,000.000 ,
which hns since Increased largely. Miss
Elizabeth 1'erklns Is nn only child , nnd hex'
mother's fortune was ns large as her own ,
Miss I'crklns Is nt present traveling In
Europe , chaperoned by Mnud Howe Elliott ,
dn'ughter of Julia Ward Howe.
Yale Beattty
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Old Girls
Mothers and
Grandmothers
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Brent discoveries. They are nil the rage.
World's Fair Medals and Diplomas
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Yiilr'N Siirciiil Lotion a sure cure f r
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Yule's 1 yt I < iiNli nml Kyllr < > w
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Viilv'H Hnlr Tiiulp Stops hair falling In
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Ynlc'H Illooil Tonic searches the blood
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It Is a'.lfe-glving fluid that men. women ami
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Ynlo'H Fi-iiltoiirn Is the nliswor to thou
sands of women's prayer ? . A speedy euro for
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Mme. Ynle Is especially nnxlous to have all
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Vnlf'N Fnor 1'iMviIi-r three shades ; plnlc ,
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Ynli-'H Ciiiiiil < * iloii Soii | > , - . " . i-oiilH.
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Mine. Yale's "Oulde lo Beauty" will bo
mailed to all who request It.
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