THE OM.AIIA DAILY KB 18 : SUtfD . FMISHIJA.HV 10 , 185)8.
WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
I.nXTHX UOSTfMKS.
KiiKKPftllotm nnil TnllrlM In Ho
Worn ItnrltiK 1'Vlirtinry.
NKW YOHIC , Feb. 15. Tha gowns at
present being ma Jo up and which will make
ti"lr ! first appearance during Lenten week
ore a compromise between winter and spring ,
suitable to the deml-scason.
Much French broadcloth Is used , In rich
browns , blues , gretns and vloletP , with here
and there a costume In the superb "emi
nence" purple , so becoming to'women of
the red type.
Trimmings for these run chiefly to bodice
decorations of white satin , spangled In jet or
Relit , or embroidered In elaborate threads , In
troducing silk flgures In Persian colors , or In
the tone of the gown. White dressed kid ,
worked with colored tllk and phape < l Into
vests , re\ers , collars nnd cubs , Is seen on a
few of the handsomer gowns.
One splendid visiting costume of "emi
nence" cloth , Just Imported by one of our
smartest dressmakers , had bands of the
white kid running loosely over a blouse
bodice of violet chiffon. The chiffon was ac
cordion plaited , and the kid bands were left
plain nt the center , and outlined with a Jet
CHINCHILLA BERTHA AND VIOLET
CLOTH SUIT.
thread Inclosing a narrow vine of purple
violets.
The effect was very charming , and the
lucky purchaser of this fine rig would have
the satisfaction of knowing that a newer
thing could not bj found In New York.
TUCKED SKIRTS.
For the sklrtH of the cloth gowns there
is nn arrangement of big tucks that Is. ' ef
fective and easily managed. The tucks are
three Inches deep and three In number , but
the front nnd back breadths of the skirt
nlono show them. A novel point Is that no
etltchlng appears1 * at the outside of these
tucks. The folds are pressed and caught
down underneath , which gives to the loose
surface a look of elegant simplicity.
A skirt of light unllgured wool , or one of
eolld silk , so tucked , Is an agreeable change
after so many plain Jupes , but If made of
cloth , the material , cf course , needs to be of
a , very light quality'to admit of the extra
WElghtjbcottsloned. " & * - " iS
Gowns of cotl ( | 'of silk" that have begun , to
how winter service are being rejuvenated
SHEPHERD'S PLAID SKIRT AND TAN
COAT.
with smart little basque bodices of brocaded
ellk. The basques are rippled , or In flat
coat tails , and there Is commonly a vest of
chiffon or white satin and maybe revere of
the same.
At the waist , 'In nine cases out of ten , a
narrow belt of gilt or silver braid that
fastens In front with a miniature buckle
girdles the brocaded bodlco becomingly.
Again the belt will bo of jet and the rcvers
of black satin , outlined or barred at the top
with rows of jet. But whatever the ma
terial of the bodice , whatever the color ,
ivlilto satin Blocks reign supreme as the
finish for the throat. The very heaviest
finality of ribbon Is chosen for these and In
a rich Ivory tint , and at the back spreads a
great round bow In four loops and two
BROCADE JACKET.
ends , which Is so huge that It hides quite
Iialf of the head.
SPRING WRAPS.
Fur wraps , cf course , cannot yet bo en-
tliely discarded , but gowns are dropping
their skin trim in I DBS as If by magic , and
there Is a very spring-lIU ? look about som
ct the new mantles ,
The short "collets"
capes are very , were
in tome Instance * , and there are some- very
full little affairs of black 01 colored velvet ,
With pale silk linings and fluffy chiffon
fixings about the neck that are charming ,
. .Tlicit ) are In one or two full lloimccu and
4 fcll cam the chiffon li black , with souie-
time tmill bl.ick ostrich feathers falling
scftly over the big neck ruche. The collets
are- shaped much like the chinchilla collars
worn during the winter.
Instead of the high collars of thc e , how
ever , the black chiffon ruche tops , the velvet
tltlclc with adorable bccomlngness , and
here may bo an Upper collet of pllsscr
chiffon with bit ? rosettes each side of the <
rent and floating stole ends.
All of these new shoulder trappings are
lellghtful , and the woman must be plain
ndted whoso looks would not bo enhance !
jy one.
For throats that have passed the ( lower of
youth they are gracious aids to softness ,
seeming even with fluff and furbelow to
firooth out the lines In tired faces. On
certain pile dark types , red mouthed and
subtle gray , they are coquettish to n degree
that baffles description.
It Is ml CM to talk of spring coats as a
flxtd family , even as late as this , for one
never knows what women are going to wear
until the time comes to wear It. However ,
the shops have bloomed out In cmart light
coats lately , loose and tight fitting , and
many of them reaching barely below the hips.
One loose model In pale covert cloth , hero
shewn , In advised aa a Lccotnlng design for
slight figures ) .
It I ? glrJUd trimly Into the waist with
a narrow bolt of yellow leather , and the skirt
pictured with It Is of checked wool In two
shades of brown.
VALUABLE HINTS.
Another suit combination to be worn during
Lenten days consisted of n plain eklrt In
green , and brown novelty wool and a short
capo of plain green cloth. /
Very beautiful hairy wools are being shown
for stylish street gowns , and these are made
up simply , with the bodice with short
basques , and often a wide girdle-shaped belt
and sleek of velvet as the only trimming.
The late hats are taking on an airy look ,
Indicative of the approach of spring , though ,
naturally , It Is too early for shapes and ma
terial to qulto decide themselves. Lenten
headgear , nevertheless , Is very smart and
hero and there demure simplicity lends Itself
becomingly to the reason. Many cf the small ,
lound hats , and these on the rallor order ,
with narrow- brims , are made cf a satin
braU in which a coarsa straw one Is- Intro
duced. Big loose roses. In a vivid pink ,
touch them up becomingly against the hair
at the back or under the brim at the side.
On the outside , there Is a tendency to run a
vast gauzy bow across the front of all the
small brim hats , with spreading wings behind
It , and In the center little curled aigrettes
like a pheasant's crest. NINA PITCH.
A WOMAN OK LETTERS.
KOIMIUT Oinnhn. Soliool Tpnchcr 10m-
liloytMl In HitClilonen I'oMlofllvc.
If you go into the Chicago postofflce an.l
stand opposite the 'department labeled
' 'Ladles' General Delivery L to Z" you
wllll tec behind the. office window a bright-
faced llttlo woman , with soft gray hair and
a pair of shrewd eyes looking through her
gold-bowed spectacles. Her trim little figure
Is Incased In an equally trim black dress ,
and , if you watch the stream of applicants
for letters that passes before the window , you
will notice that sheeecms tQ be on familiar
terms with many of them and had a cheery
greeting or kindly word for each.
Miss M. Louise Olllmore Is the little
woman's name and for twenty-eight years
she has been at her post In the general de-
llvety department. Her brother. Colonel
Robert A. Qlllmore , was once postmaster of
Chicago and when his death from drowning
occurred Miss Glllmore was appointed clerk
In the general delivery department and there
she has remained ever since.
Miss Glllmore is well remembered by
many personal friends among Omaha people
who resided here In territorial days as the
daughter of Hon. A. R. Glllmore , from 185G
i to I860 receiver of the United States land
ofllce In the Omaha dlstrlc' She was the
first principal of Browne ! ) hall when It was
located at Saratoga and was recognized as a
woman of unusual culture and refinement , as
faithful and devoted then to all her duties
us she has been since in tbe service of the
Poflolfice department.
Chatting with a reporter of the Tltnes-
Htiald respecting her work in the Chlcigo
ppstofllce. Miss Glllmore said : "No , I do
not find my work monotonous. , I am In
terested In It and never get tired. Yes ,
twenty-eight years Is a good long time , but
I am not the oldest clerk In the department.
When I first came- here there were two
wrnen In the general delivery , and one of
them , Mrs. L. P. Cook"was here until last
summer , when she was obliged to resign on
account of falling health. If she had re
mained until October she would have been
thirty years In the postofflce.
"Would I like to change ? No , I prefer
temalnlng In this department ; I am ac
customed to It. I like the work and I have
rnado many friends among the people who
come for letters. Often they bring me
( lowers and at Christmas many of them
bring me little presents. I would miss their
familiar fares If I went Into another depart
ment , and I think , perhaps , they would miss
me. You see they often talk to me and
tell mo things about themselves , and to ,
even though I do not always know their real
names , I am Interested In them.
"A great many people are under the Impres
sion that It Is only transients and a few
foi signers who get their letters at the gen
eral delivery , but they are mistaken. There
arc crowds of shop girls wbo come here
regularly for their mall , perhaps because
the firms they are with do not wish their
employes' letters delivered during business
houri' , aud the girls change their boarding
houses so often that they find It safer to have
mall i > ent here. Some of them come > ear
In year out , until we get to know each other
well enough to have friendly chats. A
woman whoso face was familiar to me told
mo tbe other day that she was going to ba
married at last , after an engagement of five
long years , and I felt as Interested as If I
had been her dearest friend. And yet we
have never met except at the ofllce window.
"At the time of the World's fair we had
many foreigners calling for letters , and a
largo percentage of them were titled , One
Russian countess came every day , and now
always has her letters addressed here aniJ
forwarded by us to whatever part of the
country she happens to be In. At present
she la In Cripple Creek.
"Wti have some peculiar experiences here
sometimes. Well dressed , handsome women
call for month after month and ai > k for let
ters addressed to Miss A or Miss B , and then
qulto by accldcni we will see them an the
street or In a shop , and bo told by tome
one Hiut they are Mrs. C , or Mrs. D. We can
only suppose that they ore- receiving letters
which they da not wish their husbands to
see. Actress get a great many letters
under assumed names , and eometlmeB young
girls who ; wish to correspond wth | men their
parents disapprove of take this method of re
ceiving their letters. We had qulle a ro
mantic case not long ago. A very prettj
girl , whose name was well known In society
circles , began calling for letters which were
addrcsi < e4 to her at the general delivery. At
length , by some mistake , one of the letter *
was forwarded to her at her father's house ,
Instead of being left here. When she came
down the next day her pretty eyes were red ,
and she looked pale and 111 , She told me thai
tha sending of the letter that bad been ad
dressed to the general delivery had gat her
Into great trouble at borne and that aha
wanted all her letters kept until she called
for them. We heard afterward , for all these
things leak out through the papers , that tOic
was secretly engaged and her parents would
not give their consent to her marriage. I
tiuppose It was one of his letters that was
cent on and got tbe poor young thing Into
trouble.
"One of the queerest cases that has ever
come- under my notice happened two years
ago. A thick envelope with a 4-ce-nt btamp ,
addressed to a married woman whom every
one knows In Chicago , carne to the general
delivery , It was never called for , and then
was advertised , and still left unclaimed , al
though we knew the lady was living here.
In due time It was sent to tbe Washington
olHcvi. Soon another letter came , addressed
In the tame way , and another and another ,
but no ouo came for them , and the same
routine was gone through. This has gone on
for nearly two years , and the letters , always
addressed in the same writing and bearing
{ cent stamps , came nearly every day , and
will ! the mjstery Is unsolved. The only pos
sible explanation Is that the tender U crazy
end that UKUdy to whom they are ad
dressed knows from whom they come ,
"Whtn ladle * are r c hlng letters under
assumed names we can almost always dis
cover It. They ask for the letter hurriedly ,
and when they receive It crumple It up In
their hands and glance fearfully around to
t < : e If anyone 1ms noted the address.
"Sometimes we have glimpses Into the
tragedies of life. One day n young girl , a
foreigner , called for a letter , and I handed
her a black-edged one. She opened It In
the hallway , then there was a scream and
a fall the girl had fainted. A little crowd
gathered to help her , and presently she re
vived and walked unsteadily away with a
white , drawn Icok on her young face. It
gives me a headache now when 1 think of
her. She never came back for more letters ,
so I suppose that blnck-edged letter told her
of the sundering of the last tic which bound
her to her native land.
"I have been In three fires In the pos'.ofllce
flist the big fire ; then , two years later , a
large fire on Wabash avenue which burned
the postofllco , then the Honore building on
Dearborn street , where wo were burned out
again. We were all In the olHco when that
fire came , and all stayed after the alarm of
fire was given until we had the mall fas
tened up In packages ready to be token
away. When we came om of the building
the crowd was so great that I was knocked
down and run over by a street car. and my
leg was broken. I was laid up for three
months , and that IE ) the only time during
my twenty-elgliU years' service that I have
tver been absent from the office because of
sickness.
"In the summer we are entitled to two
of women to vote at thi * rbcfcrH election
Mrs I'ardsc volunlarlly wlthdr * W ' } it > r name
from Iho ticket , In order nof to' endanger
the Interests of her party In the legislature.
The president of the scnalin recom
mending Mrs. Pnrdee for seeVctnry of Ihe
Donate said : ' 1 recommend Mrji.'t'ardee by
reason of her fitness for the 'pWe' ' . I con-
si Jer her work In the commute * Moms fully
up to the standard of any mart'sl'D '
In private life Mrs. 1'arded U womanly
and unassuming In manner , 'fcrle has un-
doubtcJIy a career of brllllanfj * ftnd useful
ness before her. _ *
thnt Will .
OliNllnatc Cn r"t n Hiii-wnln.
"I beg your pardon , my dear , but I took
you for your younger sister. How charming
> ou are looking. To what miracle do you
owe- your recovered health and beauty ? "
"Oh. It Is quite a long story. You re
member how 111 I was when you last saw
me ? "
"Yes , Indrcd , nnd altogether hopeless about
ever bring any betler. "
"Quit" to. and 1 grew much worse after
'
that. In fact , I suffered so'grleyously from
Indigestion that eating became a dreary
penance , and all mundane things seemed a
uclitslou and a snare. One day , standing In
( . Strom ; light , I beheld reflecled from my
mirror the face of an old woman. My skin
was dlsoclored and withered , and myhole
fnco HE deeply seamed with nrlnkles as llmt
of n urninn of 65. This sight stung me Into
KSolulJon. Per two years I Had been under
the canof the best specialists , and hero I
sloo'l nt 30 years of age this hopeless .vicck.
Something must be done. I Immedluely
s t about making Inquiries , which rosuU 'l
In my casting medicines to the win Is and
entering upon a persistent course of gym-
n 1 t <
' ' '
CLOTH GOWNS WITH CHIFFON COLLARS.
, , ,
weeks' vacation , but we did not get It for
many years until Mr. Heslng was appointed
postmaster. Now we get It regularly. We
will be glad to get Into the new building
and have daylight. Even the young clerks
have to put on glasses after they work a
little while here. "
IIAKOXEfcS HOTHSOIIlL.n'S FAIIM.
It Miikt-H n Guy ImiircNxloit Upon n
Mini SreUlllK n CiiNtly Kml.
Baroness Adolphc de Rothschild' nay fairly
claim to be a fln-de-sleclo agriculturist. She
keeps a farm at Boulogne-mr-Selne , just oul-
iiido the Bols , and here during the summer
It Is her delight to Initiate the weary votarlen
of fashion Into the simple pleasures of rustic
life.
life.The
The guspls are welcomed In a Louis XV.
drawing room , where the furniture Is cov
ered with satin brocade of the palest bluish
pink hue and all the knick-knack
, - ? and en
gravings are suggestive of the ancient regime.
One of the walls , however , conrlsts of-a huge
yheet of plate glare , giving views Into the
cowshed. If M mean , a word U applicable to
the superb apartment within which a double
row of "milky mothers" browse peacefully at
their marble manger ? .
A Breton herdsman and his wife In natural
costume tend the sleek cattle and make the
picture complete. When aesthetic cravings
have baen batej by this charming spectacle
an adjournment takes place to the dining
room , and a dainty lunch Is served amid a
bower of fragrant orchids.
Then follows a stroll through the gardens ,
laid out In Louis XV. style , with nymphs
and fauns of stone gleaming through the foli
age , and lastly there Is a visit to be paid to
the dairies. By this time It has become- cool
enough to venture on the homeward drive ,
and the carriages are brought around , but
each hau to carry besides Its passengers a
load of dairy produce and a colossal bouquet
of roses as souvenirs of the visit.
The visitor goes away with the feeling that
farming , after all , Is not such a bad trade If
you have an Income of a million or two to
fall back upon.
XEW 1IONOHS FOn WOMEN.
SUi'tt'Ii of tile Secri'lury of ( lie Scnntt *
of lllnli.
Mrs. Llllie R. Pardee of Salt Lake City ,
who lias been recently elected to the secre
taryship of the senate of the new state of
Utah , was born In September , 1864.
She Is a native of Ohio and was graduated
from BucMcl college , where she received the
hlphesl honors ever given to a graduate of
that college. Until her marriage four years
ago she was professor of Greek and Latin
and Instructor In the gymnasium of the
same college.
Her maiden name was Llllie R. Moore ,
MRS. LILLin II. PARDKE.
Jcmes D , Parclee , on attorney cf Salt Lake
City , Is her huiband , and they have a
daughter 3 years old ,
Mrs. 1'ardce Is a type of the younger Ren-
eiallon of Gentile women , She was brought
Into prominence during the preparations for
statehood , through her glfta an an orator ,
She 1ms a flno Htage presence , a rich ,
sonorous volco of great carrying power ,
which hag had special training under the
direction of Lr. ) Curry of tLe Boston School
of Expresilon.
By icakon of her earneit work la the
Woman'u Republican league the wan ap
pointed secretary of the county committee
nd afterward wan nominated by the county
convention for a seat In ( ho senate of the
nevv state. Owing to the decision of the
Utah tuureme court Hgalost the legal rlgbt
nasties , trfn : which I have nc ver deviated
for a s'nele'Uay , and now L can do my duty
by a W'jM ; rarebit at midnight with the
best , Jnd sleep thg sleep of' th Just aftfci-
" ' ' ' * u
\\ard.
"Do you mean to' tell mfe-tHat your' ' cure
was effected solel by gytorWstles ? '
' ' "BV gymtiastlctPalone. ' ; ° 'M ' < > ' ' * ' < " ' " '
"Do tell mo what areJ the 'special movei
menls. I myself suffer agonies' from' indi
gestion at tlnleS"
"Wlth thb 'greatest pleasure. The chief
aim of each movement is , of course , to ex
ercise the miu cles of the stomach and abdo
men. The ordinary calisthenics for the arms
with which every one Is familiar are the first
exercises upon my program. Then always
standing upon the balls of the feet extend
the arms upward , parallel with the head ,
and , keeping the knees perfectly stiff , bend
the body until tbe fingers touch the floor ,
thence back Into an upright position. This
should ba gone through with from fifteen to
twenty times. You now extend the arms
outward until they are at right angles with
the body and , holding the right leg firm ,
bend the body toward the right until the
fingers touch the floor , then back to position
again. After doing this four times , go
through the same exercise toward the left ,
and then alternate from right to left.
"The next exercise upon the program Is
to lie flat upon the back with the arms
parallel with the body ; then ralo ? the arms
as slowly as possible , drawing in the breath
at the rame time , until they have described
a complete s > eml-clrcle and are extended at
full length upon the floor above the head ;
then very slowly move them back Into posi
tion , letting out the breath simultaneously
with the motion. It Is best to do this exer
cise four times wllh each arm separately ,
nnd then both together.
"Now comes the last and most difficult
exercise of all. Still on your back , raise ths
legs very , very blowly , with the knees slllt
and tees pointing outward , as high as you
can get tbem , and then let them drop as
slowly as possible back into position , wlth-
'cut bending the knees. ThlB is a very se
vere exercise , and can rarely he done more
than three times In succession with safety. "
"And did you do nothing directly for your
complexion ? "
"Oh. yes. Every day after washing it In
very hot water , I rubbed It at least five
minutes with a flebh brush , being careful to
always pass the brush from the eyes and
mouth In the direction of the ear. I fol
lowed this with a generous application of
cold cream , gently rubbing It In , until It
was quite absorbed. "
"And do ycu never have even slight symp
toms of the return of the old enemy ? "
"Occasionally I do. But instead of taking
any of the so-called aids to digestion , I don
my loose gymnastic gown , and go through
my cxerclt''s , and I have never . failed to
find Immediate relief , "
"Thank you , my deir , FO much , But tell
me , how long does It take to go through
thfso exercises ? "
' 'Only half en hour ; and If you lnow : any
one suffering from chronic Indlgosllon , do
not fall to recommend to ( hem this niost
effective , treatment. Sure .cure and no pay , "
TIII3 UH12.YI3I. II'IA.VO.
.1 1JH
A CiiHlly Work of Art'fcii'iuiili'ltMl ' fur
it
Edwin H. Bloshfleld , now at work upon
the decorallons of Iho J'jMv'1 ' , congressional
1'brary ' at Washington , 'jlus Just finlfhed
painting a piano for Mrs , UEorge W , Chlldu
Drexcl of Philadelphia thatl will easily rank
as one of the most distinguished pieces ) of
atlUltc workmanship of Uiodejn times. In
deed Its only possible rivals , | n the field of
piano decoration are IhD-rfanjvua Alma Ta-
dema , owned and dccorqtyu 0by himself , a
characteristic Burne Jonjjs , p ano , and an-
clher euperb Instrument fmyitly designed
by Alma Tadeina for orm of , the foremo l
art lovers and connols8siiia , / Now York.
This latter design , how fer. Is along en
tirely different lines from the Bluuhfleld
piano , following as It dops-jllie pureut style
uf Greek art to conform 'to the Idea which
rules throughout the room In which It stands.
The general scheme of the ornamentation of
tlilu piano It ) bated upon ebony , supple
mented by toft grades of cdar , yellowlth
boxwood , brown oak , mother of pearl , coral ,
t'lver and other metal tracery , and the pre
vailing designs are of a structural nature
lioin which radiate tendrils , leaves and
elcnis Intertwining wllh scroll-like effects.
U contains but one picture , which replaces
the board above the keys. This IK an ex-
( lU'.flte competition by K. J. Poynler. R. A. ,
director of Die national gallery , London ,
representing music and dancing.
Mrs. Drfxt-l'B piano U a parlor grand , the
carving of the legu , etc. , having been de
signed by A , R , Blackmore. The piano was
first completely glided with gold leaf and
upon this ' gold leaf Mr , Blashfleld han painted
tlx panel's , five of which repreient tbe differ
ent kinds of music. Kach panel la tur-
lounded by scroll work In the style of the
Italian Renaissance , aeanlhu , shells.
sphinxes , etc. This icroll work 1 painted
n rort of cream white , nnd serve * to con-
icct the colored panels with the gold le f of
the piano.
About the body of the casa run four long
rectangular panels , Also connected by this
scroll work. The first panel represents a
youns girl , both flgures being seated In the
boughs of a tree. A banderole running In
and out among the boughs and flgures has
upon It the words "Muslca I'astorall ? . "
In the second panel an angel kneels be
fore an organ and plays upon It , and at the
other end of the panel a bishop In full
ponllftcals kneels with Joined palms and his
head bowed. The banderole for this beautiful
panel Is Inscribed "Muslca Sacra. "
The third panel has three soldiers In fif
teenth century armor , one running forward ,
two blowing long trumpets , bearing upon Its
graceful banderole "Mus-lca Mllltarls. "
The fourth panel has a prlma donna , boldIng -
Ing In one hand a dagger , In the other n
tragic mask. At her side a young man plays
a vlollncello , and this , 08 courfo , Is "Muslca
Uramatlca. "
At the rear of the piano Is another panel ,
containing a group of Instruments ; pan pipe ,
violin , lute , etc. , and a shield bearing an
Inscription as to the painting of Ihe Inslru-
But perhaps the most beautiful of all these
oxnuU'lte pictures Is the largo round medal
lion upon the ld ! , rtpresoitlng class cal music.
Thin Is simply represented by two figures
In Greek costume ; a young man nearly nude ,
wearing a light colored drapery aud playing
a violin , nnd opposite him a girl In crocus
colored drapery , playing a harp.
These paintings In composition , drawing
nnd color are beyond praise , nnd arc perhaps
the most perfect examples In existence of
that y'.ncere decoration suggested by the
nature of the object decorated.
HKXKWIMJ OI.O UHHSSBS.
I" 'I' ' ' I'l'lllllllll-
KOIIII' SlIRKOHllOIIM II" " ' *
lottl UNI * of MiiU-rliilM.
Whether they will succeed or not It Is hard
to say. but the costumers will make strenu
ous effcrty to Introduce trimming on Ihe now
skirts. A few Parisian skirls have gore
panels with trimming running up and down
beide ! them. This Is an advantage In re
modeling an old dress. Two skirts that har
monize may be put together by this means ,
Thcro Is no enll to the variety of passemen-
Icrlo and Jeweled trimming that can be bad
to give the refurbished gow-n nn appearance
of ncwnesj. Speaking of trimming , one can
buy set pieces of II for yokes to old wauls
for about $3 which give a very dressy effect.
Go lo the trimming wlea and see what you
can get In the way of festoons of Jet or Jew elf
and applique pieces when you are wondering
what to do with a dress that is scuffed , but
not nearly 'worn out ,
A remnant which one buys < for $3 or ? 4
may be made up very cheaply with the
trlmmlngo I have been lalklng about , and
In this way one gets n pretty spring dress at
very little cost especially since haircloth Is
no longer an es-Tcntlnl. The new lining that
Is stiff but very light Is much better than
haircloth and much cheaper , too. A skirt
nowadays need not be more than four or five
jardo wide. It Is lined with cheverctte ,
bcund with velveteen , nnd finished with a
ribbon ruffle around the Inside. Some of the
cvenlrg k r s have velvet tr'nirlng A Dres
den silk gown with a train had an Immense
amcjphous blue velvet bow Just below the
right knee. There were three or four ostrich
and against the tulrt.
t'p ' : < standing cul up
The bodice had large blue velvet sleeve puffs ,
with ostrich feathers and blue velvet bows
on the shoulders and at the waist.
VVHIHJIXG COSTUM KS UENTHH.
Illrort Kliu-rr CoiiKiilcmuiM lit Xew
York Altr.rM.
In the pact few years an unromantlc cur-
lorn has developed In New York City lhat
of brldw hiring the cobtume In which they
"ttand up" at the altar. The curlom has
not of course , been stamped with the ap
proval of the 400 , but then. It Is tiot confine. !
lo Iho poorasl people , cither. It was started
Ly the lattar , but is growing In favor among
people who are comfortably off. A coslumer
on East Houston street dees a large business
In this way. his Income from this source
t'teadlly ' Increatliig anbVoffCrdlng\-trri } ! reason
able as-siuranfee-ot-a competency' before many
1 ' ' -
years.- ,
for twenty-three ye3rs , but Its proprietor ha ?
made a t-peclalty of renting out weJSIng
dresses during the -past len years only. Up
to that time he bad no call for anything but
maaquerade and theatrical .costume ? . People
bought their own wedding gowns In those
days and never thought of hiring such gar-
ment'e. except for theatricals. Then the tide
of immigration set In and the east side , al
ways thickly Inhabited , become so densely
populated that life there wag a struggle
Still the peopleof the overcrowded dlctrlct
continued to marry , and their Increasing pov
erty created a demand for hired wedding cos
tumes. This the Houston street dealer was
quick to discover and to profit by. Now it is
the rule rather than the exception for the
brlden of .southeastern New York to weJ In
borrowed ccsturnee.
Finding that wedding dresses could be
rented , wcmen in a belter class of eoclety
began to clamor for ball dresses as well , and
Ihe cos-tumor now rents out hundreds of these
every season at from $2 to $3 apiece a night.
Theoo party dreasss are very handsome.
They are of all cuts and colors , and are
fashlonoJ In good rtyle from plain and bro
caded satins , surah silks and other costly
materials. They are alee prettily trimmed
and finished , and many a maiden has bruised
hearls right and left In the ballrooms of New
York In thla borrowed finery. Renting ball
dresses has become as lucrative a source of
revenue to the costumer a.9 the hiring out of
bridal robes. The latter are mostly of white
surah silk , elaborately trimmed with lace
an3 crango blossoms , and rent for $2 to $8
iplece. Their material and manufacture cost
the coutumer from $30 to $40 each , and he
leta them lo hundreds of brides every year.
They are made by a dressmaker , who la kept
buty all the year rountY In a room over the
little shop.
KlINlllOll
The posy ribbons will be the summer rage.
Bizarre effects in millinery are the desid
eratum of rprlng style.
The new "old rose" shade Is almost as
pink as a rai nation blossom.
Violet , purple , white and gray are the
colois employed for light mourning.
The scent of lavender Is just sufficiently
old-tlmey to bo quite up to date.
Fancy girdles will figure conspicuously In
the Eummnr girl's wardrobe ,
Fashionable modistes are gradually reduc
ing the circumference of the over-wide nine-
gored sklrtH.
Purple Ink Is faddish , but unreliable If you
expect your communications read.
A single large poppy with Its leaves placed
on the skirt of a ball gown about n foot from
tbe hem Is considered ultra modish ,
The new lawns and dimities are exceed-
Ipgly pretty , with flowered stripes In foft ,
faded colors and plain Blrlpes of color on a
white ground ,
New ginghams have a frlso effect of white
or black loops over the pretty soft plaid ,
which makes them look like anything but
cotton ,
Swiss muslins are quite now In design ,
with lines of color and Dresden bouquets
scattered all over them In addition to thd
iibual whitedots. .
, Ileal Valenciennes lace Is In grealcr de
mand than ever nnd Is used for trimming
Jabots , ruches , collars , chemisettes and all
toils of neckwear.
Chine laffela silks In toft , beaullful Dres
den pallerns are again lr\ great use for
separate Vests. The now spring patlcrns are
In very loveiy colorings.
French tailor made costumes arc made
wllh very rhort full basques elaborately
braided and trimmed In front with frog
buttons and the faldrtu are also braided.
The coat which bids fair to bo mpst worn
through the spring Is a tliort loose-backed
Jacket hanging straight from a yoke and
one styio Is made with three box pleats In
the back and plaited epaulets aver the
sleeves.
Carved leather card catua are one of the
reason't ) novelties * . The leather Is light brown
In color , and the carving U seen In many odd
dcslgni. Alligator card cases , In vivid green ,
with the corneru capped with gold , are an
other In favor.
Fancy buckles , c'arpa and buttons will re
tain their popularity through tbe spring , and
fancy gold-plated belts an Inch wide , In great
variety of filigree patterns , uometlmes sot
with Imitation Jewels , are worn , and alee tbe
plain gold baud so effective with dark velvet
coat a. '
The cow ecru embroideries vliowa for trim
ming batiste gowns are \cry elaborate In dc-
rlgn and much more- beautiful tlmn any wo
tiavo hnd before. They come In various
widths of Insertion and edging lo match , and
In very opsn patterns , which can bs applied
like lace.
"Sw1 j"-the good , thin but stiff , dead-
white Swiss has n descendant In Swl 9 ns
theer a the old kind , but much more beauti
ful. U conic ? now In soft cream tone ! , and
la barred , strlpeJ and flowered out of all
Ilkcners to Us prototype.
Wide while ratln ribbon wrinkled about
Iho neck nnd ending In a bow nnd ends at
the back , now takes the plnco of the long
popular black neck band. These while col
lars are worn with cloth gowns ns well as
more dressy frocks and are generally becom
ing.
ing.A
A pretty farhlon which has the merll of
showing elf to perfectlon-tlio beauty of n lace
fiounco the berthn IP revived again , nnd ex-
lenslvcly employed on evening gowns. Point
d'Alencon , and perhaps n dozen yarJs of n
five-Inch lace edge of the same pattern , make
an exquisite bertha.
A new- style of applique trimming Is made
cf several thicknesses of French crepe ar
ranged In handsome patlcrns on light-colored
silk. Small diamonds are Introduced Into
some of the new embroideries with fine
effect. Ficelle lace ptudded wllh turquoise
and dlamondn N used for the yoke ot white
nnd colored chiffon waists.
Plaid silks , combining throe colors , as
while , green nnd black , or velvet green and
rose , brown turquoise blue nnd amber , nnd
an Infinite variety of equally artistic color
combinations are shown by Ihe houses which
make a ppcclally of exclusive and advanced
styles In fabrics. These silks will be worn
during Ihe summer.
The doom of the abnormal dress sleeve Is
sealed. All gowns now brought from Paris
by relumed Importers nnd tourlrts show the
bodice finished with a close-flUlng sleeve ,
completed at the top by n very modest mod
erate puff , or slightly larger divided puff , n
Vandyke point , Hungarian cap , or tuckcJ or
pimp-trimmed chalclatnc drapery falling to
the elbow.
Sleek collars lhat recall the pictures of
half a century ago are modish adjuncts to
modern feminine toilets. Black satin Is the
preferred fabric. A stiff band Is covered
with black satin. A cord of white Is used
on the upper edge and around the lower
edge a black satin tie Is worn , which ! s tied
squarely and primly In front.
Delicately flowered pink chiffon over rich
pink satin formed nn exquisite gown recently
worn by a charming debutante of the sea
son. The satin was cut In fitted prlncesse
style , low and rounding In thb neck. The
pink chiffon was high at the throat , and was
In one continuous length from neck to skirt-
hem , being finely shirred at the throat and
again nt the waist , all around , the wearer
being tall and very slender.
Stylish and dressy costumes for spring are
made of blacker dark green satin or
corded slllt , brocaded with small blossoms
and fcllagc In natural colorings , with a full
Stuart capo of black or green velvet , tbe
historic collar wholly covered with rich galleon
loon , whoso varl-colored spangles nnd Jewel
beads repeat the colors In the brocade. The
cape Is lined with brocade , and a hat or
French tcque cnsulte makes an elegant finish.
English tweeds- Venetian cloths , silk
threaded cheviots , rough boucle materials ,
and mohairs r.re among the new dress goods
for spring. Crepe Is worn by English
women for mourn'ng much more generally
than It was a year ago , but only by nearest
lelatlves , and It Is not applied so conspicu
ously to dress as It was some time ago ,
when every member of the family affected by
loss was loaded down with this wearisome
expression of their grief.
Yellow , In r.ll the shades from a delicate
tint to the bright screaming red-yellow- simi
lar to the old-fashioned flame color , Is first
In the list of fashionable colors for the corn
ing season. But ns no speslal shade ever
rules the day in fashion , so there are no end
of new greens mixed with blue , lovely rose
tints , marine , Neapolitan blues , and metallic
gray , which makes a pretty background for
flowered and Persian designs. All the violet
shades and the pretty dark blue , with pea
cock or plum tints , will be worn. In fact ,
the sclieme of color [ Is trie same as ever ,
'with "endless variations In shading.
' ' ' * '
? / . 1' ' - i
> ! * * Feminine > o rM.
Susan B. Anthony Is of Quaker ancestry.
Viscountess Postman has Just been reelected -
elected president of the London Young
Women's Chrltitlan association.
Mine. Navarro ( Mary Andersen ) Is devoted
to chess and always carries a board an3 set
of chessmen with her when traveling.
The first and second prizes for butter
making at the Dublin winter cattle show
\vero won by Miss Lllburn and Miss Nellie
Carroll.
Duchess Carl-Theodore of Bavaria assists
her luuiand In all his active schemes for the
good of their people , by whom they both are
worshiped.
Ouida. leads a retired life at Valleblna ,
Italy. She seldom receives now , but occa
sionally Is S3en walking Ira the neighborhood
of her villa , followed by her six dogs.
Princess Maud of Wales , who IB to marry
her cousin , Prince Charles of Denmark , Is an
cnthuslasllc cyclist , an admirable amateur
photograhpep and an excellent cook.
At her ball In New York City Mrs. William
Astor wore a gown of purple velvet , richly
trimmed with point lace. She also wore a
coronet of diamonds , and her famous stomacher
acher of diamonds.
Mlsa Clara Barton la accompanied by Mire
Lucy Graves , a stenographer ; George II. Pull
man , private secretary ; Mr. and Mrs. Ernest
Mat'on. linguists and Interpreters , and Dr. J ,
B. Hubbell , fleld agent for the Red Cross so
ciety.
Mrs. Krueger , the wife of President Krueger
Is greatly esteemed throughout the Transvaal
and IB regarded by the Boers as a pattern
housewife , and a model of all tbe domestic
and social virtues ,
Mrs. Clara Louise Kcllogg-Strakosch after
a dinner party the other day , Instead of hav
ing finger bowls , had an exquisitely wrought
basin , half filled with rose water , passed , It
served the same purpose.
The queen of Italy has written a book de
scribing her adventures as an Alpine moun
tain climber. The queen took to climbing to
reduce her weight , She rides a wheel for
the eame purpose.
Marlon Harland wears a beautiful silver
star , the points of which are finished with
costly pcarla. It was presented to her by
thd members of the Mnrttm Washington
Monument ns'oclntlon , othlch she was the
prlnclpil founder.
The I'aunttwe dc Muriel , " ( lyp. " h s al
most recovered from her recent twcro 111-
ncx . Her new novel has Juit been pub
lished , U Is called "Le llonhcur il.i Olnetlo , "
ni > d Is n foc'ely ' story , written with de
cidedly refreshing sltunllon ! .
In Armenia the prollucts of Indiiitry which
have made the country famous , si I Uc , wools ,
carpels nnd embroideries , arc all made by
women , from the treatment of Ihe raw ma
terial and Ihe designs to the final proccstes
ot manufacture ,
MlM Mary Klngsley , niece of the author
of "Weslwnrd , Ho , " considers skirls , In-
slead of bloomers , Hie- best co'lume for river
and forest work. In them she faced canni
bals and ilwnrf.i , shot gorillas and became a
Stanley among women.
Pr ncess Beglarlnn of Armenia Is Rlvlnre
medical ndvlec nnd attention to the patients
In her neighborhood. She often has ns high
ns seventy patients , nnd Is very competent ,
as she studied medicine In Berne and prac
ticed In cholera hospitals In Russia ,
Lillian Russell nnd Mrs , Frank Lesliearn
running each other n close race on nmtil-
monlal rumors. The former had Just punc
tured n report thnt she was to marry again
when n report bobbed up thnl Mrs. Leslie-
wns arranging to embark on Ihe sea ot
matrimony.
The czarina of Kuraln has agreed to be
one of the patrons of the Russian Society for
Rational Costume. The most distinguished
ladles of St. Petersburg and Moscow nro
Joining the society , which Is seeking a typo
of dress which will bo hygienic , elegant and
convenient ,
Frau Kmlllo Kempln Is the first lady law
yer In Berlin. She has opened her ofllco In
the fashionable street of Untcr dcr Linden.
She Is a doctor of law formerly lectured
nt thd Unlvort'lty of Zurich , nnd before that ,
attended New York university , and practiced
In that city.
Mme. Von Chclnilnsky , n German lady.
about 30 years of ape , has lust achieved the
lion or of reaching the top of what Is known
as HajoletM Tower , ono of Iho Rose Garden
range In the middle of the Alps. This as
cent surpasses that of Miss Peck , who scaled
the Mattcrhorn.
Several ladles of the court of St. Peters
burg are Intrepid horsewomen and daring :
cross-country riders. The other day a bear
hunt was given In honor ot the Grand
Duchess ( Vladimir Alcxandrovltch and a ,
novel feature was a luncheon on the bnow
with the mercury nt the freezing point.
Mrs. Agnes Rcppller writes In the Cosmo
politan of the Journal of Countess Frnncolso
Kraslnslo , of which she say ( > : "Of all the
memoirs kept , or presumably kept , by youth ,
and handed down llko dried rose leaves to an
other generation , this little record Is the
most appealing In its simplicity , its gayely *
and pathos. "
At a. council of the Congregational church.
nt Fort Pierre recently Mrs. ( Henrietta Ly-
man of Pierre was ordained as minister In
that church. Mrs. Lyman In the wife of the
pastor of the Congregational church , nnd baa
several times In the past preached there.
She will from this time 1111 the pulpit of the
church across the river. >
Old
Old people who require msdlcine to rcgulata
the bowels and kidneys will find the trim
remedy In Eleclrlc Bitters. This medicine-
does not stimulate and conlatns no whisky-
nor olher Intoxicant , but acts as a Ionic anil
alterative. It acts mildly on the stomach
and bowels , adding strength anl giving tone *
lo the organs , thereby aiding tuUire In the
pcrformai.ee of thi functions. Eloctrl' ; Bit
ters Is an excellent appetizer and aids diges
tion. Old people find It Just exactly what
they nred. Price fifty cents per boltls at
Kuhn & Co.'s drug sloje. _
A Wichita girl rejected a young man nt
9 o'clock one night , and within nn hour ha
had proposed to her sister , whom he found
nt a neighbor's , and was accepted.
YALE
HAIR
TONIC
' '
LADIES AND QENLEMEN :
It affords me great pleasure to cnll the atten
tion of the public to Yule's Uxcelflor Hair Tonic ,
which la the first mid only rfmedy known to
chemistry which positively turns gmy hnlr back
to Its original color without dye. It has none nil
iccord that Mmr. M. . Vale wonderful woman
chemist him ninde thlx inont Milunljtc of all
chomlcnl illBcoseilea. Mine. Yale personally en
dorses Its nctlon nnd gives the public her nulemu
guarantee Hint It linn been tented In every con
ceivable way find lints pro\c < l lUelf to be the
ONLY Hair Specific. It BTOI'H HAIU TAIL
ING Immediately unit cieaten a luxutloua Krowth.
11 contains no injurious Ingredient. I'liynlclims
and themlstH Invited to analyze It. It Is not
sticky or tcrcimy ; on the contrary , II makes the
Imlr xoft , jouthful , Huffy nnil keeps tt In curl.
For gentlemen and ladleji with hnlr a little way ,
stiroked Riny , entirely ( -ray nnd with IAI.l >
linAD.H , It IB fp-clflciilly rccnmmfiidcd.
All druKKltilH Hell It It. I'llee , SI.OO.
If anybody offers n suhstltuti' , Khun them.
MMC. M. YAMO , Health nnd Complexion
HpvclnllBt , Yale. Temple of Ueuuty , HC Htat
Hired , C'hlcugo.
One Bottle Every Day
meanrfrom 2 lo 5 pounds a week gained
in healthy flesh.
ft :
.
7DADB MARK.
the food drink is crushed from the
best malt and hops. A rousing tonic. To
the nursing mother it is nourishment
for herself and babe , To consump
tives and sufferers from wasting dis
eases , to all who are tiiin and sickly ,
it means more flesh and greater
- , . . ' " , '
/ A. , * : strength ,
.
-
UrtiJJM. S- s
' .rPSt At all ' ' .
. t- Druggists' ami Grocers'
Prepared by
WtMCMmMUUW ANnEUSER-BDSCH MEWING ASSW ,
: UUX4MOS
tftJiyfcuKO St. Louis , V. S. A.
" ilP PM
v e S& * . i
