THE OMAHA DAILY JBEE : st FTDBRUAUY n. isno.
WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
.SIII\KS : AMI SKIHTS.
Homo limllcnl CliiniKCM Sliotru In lin
SjirliiK St ) Ics.
NBW YORK. Pob. 6. If the prc nt. ten-
dcnrjcs of modes may bo regarded as Indica
tions ot what the future will brlr.n forth ,
then spring sleeves will run to actual smallness -
ness and shirts be wider thnn ever.
A tcngown sleeve named for Miss Olga
Nothersole , the Encll'h actress , wrinkles
over tlio arms like n loose glova and Is so
long that It covers the hand to the knuckles.
At the tutnldc scam of this a frill of lace
or plaited chiffon Is Inserted , to hang nud
flutter llko the fringe of an Indian's leggln.
The wridt portion Is 111 cliape.il , which Is
a capital arrangement for divulging a too
thin hand , anil the flontlnR Incc t the outside.
Beam take * away from the severity of the
sleevo'si fmicnwH.
Hut speaking of actresses , It Is really to
their Iniluencc wo owe the reform now shown
FOR A MATUON.
In scattered Instances and that threatens
soon to sway all sleeves.
The evening gowns at present being worn
at the bent theaters have , In the majority
of cases , short puff sleeves , modeled after
tlioso worn during the dlroctolro period , and
not a great deal larger.
MISS NEILSON'S SLEEVES.
In "Tho Notorious Mrs. Ebbsmlth , " Miss
Nellson wcarw a pair of sleeves that may bo
said to have inado the hit of.tho piece.
They form part of a black spangled gauze
gown , such as the stage always associates
with wickedness , and are a revelation as to
what simple draping , may do for a beautiful
If arm.Tho
*
The bodice of this gown Is very decollete-
back and front and Is kept on the shouldera
by a narrow spangled band.
Another similar to It encircles the bare
arm Just below the elbow like a bracelet ,
and through this underneath , goes a long
ecnrf of the spangled gauze , looping loosely
between the bracelet band and the armhole ,
where It > ls sewed In , and hanging from the
elbow In a long flowing end.
The effect Is bizarre , of course , but In
Miss Nells-on's case It Is extremely becoming.
FINE AND CORRECT.
Again , a French chanteuse , who lately en
raptured and astonished New York , wore no
sleeves at all , and then , also , a charming
arm got the benefit of the Innovation.
A few of the newest evening gowns shown
by the smart dress-makers are also without
Bleeves , a graceful little fall of lace or arti
ficial ( lowers at the. shoulder taking their
place. Even where there are sleeves there
Is an evident desire to show as much of a
pretty arm as possible.
To accomplish this the bodice Is often
made very low at the shoulders , -or Is held
on only with a strap , the short puff sleeve
banging away below on the nrm.
DECORATING SLEEVES.
A charming short sleeve recently worn by
Mrs. John Jacob Astor at the opera had tha
upper Inside of the puff cut away In a big
half moon to show a very white and pretty
arm , Indeed.
Another sleeve seen at the opera was as
simple as effective. The corsage of this
was of white satin , but the sleeves were no
A SPniNQ HOUSB GOWN.
mere than a pair of bracelet bands above the
elbow , of geranium pink velvet , and to the
outside of which was tied a big white tulle
tow folded Into butterfly ulngs. At the
Inside these were held on the arm by a band
three Inches vUdo of the pink velvet that
extended from the armholo.
With street sleeves a point for congratu
lation la that the hideous "melon" affairs.
Introduced at the first of the season , have
been banished to the limbo of modish dis
approval. Those with the vorx short puff
anil long cuff portion are also not eo much
seen , the old favcrlto glgot , remodeled , having
almost entirely taken the place of both.
The lower portion ot these is now cut
with an Inside and an oululjo seam , Instead
of In one , as formerly , and the puff has a
mere bias hang , being longer at the outer
line than the Inner one.
The folds droop heavily , showing there Is
no stiffening , and in ever/ Instance there
Is distinct evidence that much leas cloth Is
being used. Sleeves of Indoor bodices run
much toward long limp puffs that finish just
below the elbow In a wide cuff band.
Methcda of trimming these vary according to
tatte , but an effective fancy Is to have a wide
stripe extending down tl10 outside of the
puff , of lace , velvet or embroidery.
A MIXED BKKKC1T.
A serge- street gown recently ( ported by a.
HIM art woman had a stunning fleevo. TJje
color was ono of the strange , bright bluer , at
present In favor , and with the heavy ser o
.WAV combined a vouderlul brocaded , il k In
changing greens n < l purples. The r.cw
mutton leg was Ihe model of the sleeve , vlch : !
was made ot the serge , slashed openings
being made In the loner portion to ehow an
umlcrskcvo of the brocade.
Apropos of this model sleeve there was
n very dainty little pin worn with tint boillce
Hint It Juit now the thing with up-to-date
mnlils and smnrt young matrons. .
This wag a brooch , made of a bis rouml
topnz , cut with the smooth cabochon furfnce
and set ilrep In n narrow gypiy fceltlrg of
very yellow gold.
These charming little brooches mnkc a vrry
stylish finish to the throat of n Hsilloc , * ntl ,
compared to other ornaments now being
worn'their cxpenreIs a lncJjO , rn,8.1Tcn , [ ,
Unit AM12IIICAN SISTBIIS.
Vvi'ttc ( itilllicrt'N Opinion of tlic
Women of TlilH Country.
On the eve ot her departure for Paris I
had n chat with that fascinating queen of
music hall singers , Yvctto dullbert , who ,
with charming unprutcntlousncss , gave me
came- views she has formed ot American
women during her stay hero. A thorough
woman herself nml n Parisian , Mile. Gull-
brrt ha talieti full advantage of her oppor
tunities to study her .American sisters anil
note wherein , to her notion , they dlfter from
the women ot the French capital. Her
crltlcluniH , ventured with becoming modesty ,
bear witness to her alertness of ml nil and
kcciuiCFa of observation anil merit considera
tion.
tion."You
"You must know , monsieur , that I have
traveled very much and e > ung In all the
capitals of Europe , but not anywhere have I
found women who resemble our women of
Parlu so much as do those I have had the
honor of meeting In New York and llcston.
Not Spanish women , nor Hussion , nor Italian ,
nor Kngllsh oh , mon dleu , certainly not the
English seem to me to possess such points
of likeness to the Parisian women as the
ones I pec on Fifth avenue and Broadway ,
"You see , I do not admlra English women
very much. I am sorry , but It Is that way.
They have lovely complexions and pott , low
voices. Perhaps In those respects they have
the advantage of cither French or Ameri
can women , but they cannot dress ; dear me ,
the poor things cannot dress. And the funny
part of It Is that just now there Is quite a
wave of Anglomania sweeping over Paris.
French ladles find nothing so chic ao to
wear London-made gowns , and the swellcat
houses In Paris abound In furniture designed
for London. Oh , for that , there Is no doubt
the English lend the world ; they do know
how to make beautiful furniture. All the
same , English ladles seem to me sadly lackIng -
Ing In taste. This mania In Paris for doing
things a I'Anglalsc Is , I suppose , only a'
caprlco that will pars away , but we have
had It In a bad form Just now. Why , French
newspapers are full of English words and
English sports are all the rage In Paris. Just
look at the bicycle. "
At this word "bicycle" Yvetto shrugged
her shoulders In marked disdain. I asked
her If she disapproved of ladles riding the
wheel.
"Not If they llko It. I believe Ip freedom ,
bu' It seems to mo very horrible. For my
self , I shall never do guch a thing. " And
then , as If to combat some look of Incredulity
In my face , she added : "If over you hear of
me riding a bicycle , you can clalnvtha rrosccls
of any ono of my night's singing to be given
to any charity.
GOOD FRENCH SCHOLARS.
"Ono thing has pleased me very much In
America , " she paid , "and suprtsed me , too ;
that Is to find so many ladles able to speak
Frsrch fluently ami understand It. I find
Fiench spoken much more generally here
than In England , and the accent Is much
ple&pantcr ; Indeed , I find the American
accent very pretty. I must say that the
American men , I have met do not make as
good a showingIn-this regard as _ their wives
nn.1 sisters. I suppose they are too busy makIng - -
Ing money to learn foreign languages. That
Is a pity ; don't you think so ?
"In Uoston I was amazed at tbe ease with
which ladles conversed with me In my own
tongue. I felt quite- stupid not to know
English better. And they tell me that In
Washington French Is even more generally
spoken. The fact Is , very often when I have
been dining In one of your splendid hotels or
driving In the park , the whole effect of the
people I met and conversed with was to make-
mo feel that I was In Paris and not away from
licmo at all. I suppose that Is because your
ladles go to Paris so-of ten that they finish
by becoming half French , at least In taste. "
"Do you think , then , madame , that the
N\w ) York and Doston ladles who have seen
you nt th-n theater understood "all the words
of your songs ? "
Yvette laughed mischievously. "I think
a great many of them did ; but then you see
they had the advantage when I came to the
shocking parts of being able to pretend that
tbey did not understand. Is It not so ? "
FINE LINGERIE.
This led us Into a little diversion on
national hypocrisy and Incidentally caused
Yvetto to give her views on ladles' under
wear.
"A lady came to see me the other day , "
she said , ' 'qulto a wealthy lady , too , and
expressed astonishment and admiration when
I showed her some of my underskirts and
chemises , which were made pretty with
ribbons and laces , as French women always
wear them.
" 'How much did this cost ? ' she asked ,
picking up an underskirt. '
" 'Ob , about 500 trances , ' I said , and went
on to explain to her that even the poorest
women and girls In Paris take pride In spend
ing their money on their undergarments.
I told her that a Parisian girl would find
It quite natural to wear a simple gown that
cost perhaps sixty frances over an under
skirt and chemise that may cost ten times
as much. "
" 'What a queer Idea ? ' said the lady ,
" 'Don't you do that way ? ' I asked her ,
'We think that In dressing ourselves It Is
ptoper to give the costliest and daintiest
garments the place of honor , even though
they are not seen. "
"The lady said she had never looked at It
In that way , Which made m laugh.
"Hut tell mo ono thing , monsieur , "sho
asked eagerly , "why Is It American women
have their teeth stuffed full of gold ? That
seems to mp very dreadful. You would never
see- such a thing In Paris. And I have heard
that some of your American women , but I
dcn't really believe this , have gone to the
point of having holes bored In their teeth
to set diamonds In. Horrors ! How could a
man kiss a woman with such a mouth. I
should bo afraid of her. It must be that
your American women cat too many bon-bons.
I have noticed them crowding Into candy
stores when I have been going about New
York. It must bo bad for their teeth to eat
all those sucrccrles. In Paris we have very
few candy stores and do not care so much
for bon-bons ; but we have something Instead
that I miss In America. I mean the little
cake shops , patlecrries , that you find all
over Purls where ladles may drop In for a
few minutes while shopping and drink a glass
of wlno with some rakes. Those don't seem
to harm our teeth , though ; look at mine , "
and as she laughed merrily Yvetto showed
UB perfect a double row ot white teeth as one
could find anywhere.
GAY FOR THE STREET.
"Do you think , " I asked , "American
women dress as well as the women of
Paris ? "
"That depends. In one way they drew
better , since they put on more things , In
another way they do not dre a as well since ,
on the street , at least , they seem over
dressed. I must admit the effect Is very
pretty and brilliant and their style of dressIng -
Ing certainly eeems to suit them and their
surroundings , but to me , coming from Perls ,
It looks as If they were all decked out for
a wedding mast , when they are really just
going about their ordinary business. You
know French women would never think cf
wearing so many colors on tbelr gowns and
hats as Is common In New York , and In
Paris you would seldom see nomen walking
about in the daytime with white gloves on
their handy or diamonds In their ears. French
ladles like to dress quietly and In subdued
colcrs. Out after all that is only a matter
of taste.
One thing I do criticise In the way the
American woman dresses and that Is her
habit of letting her skirts train on the side
walks Instead of lifting them. Whenever I
have aecn them sailing along with expensive
silks and velvets dragging In the dirt , I have
always felt as If they were dolnt It from
ostentation , as If they would say to every
one : 'I know my skirt Is dragging on the
sidewalk and getting spoiled , but that does
not worry mo a bit. My husband pays the
bills , and there IB plenty more where this
came from , ucsldes that , I like to sec a
woman show a well turned ankle now and
then , don't you ? And surely the American
women , with their pretty feel , could afford
to do that. "
Hut , Madame , " I protested , "what you say
amounts almost to charging American women
with bad taste In dress. "
"Oh , mon dleu , no ; that Is the farthest
from my Idea. On the contrary , as I told
you , I think the American woman tjns won
derful taste , and It la In a way from having
that that she errs. Let me explain what I
mean. You see , the English woman has
simply no taste at all , No matter what she
puts on she Is sure to ; cem badly dressed ,
whereas the American woman seems well
ilreraed , although she puts on too much ,
Anyhow , she knows how to wear her clothes
and to walk In them. Hut I think she fol
lows the fashions too slavishly. Every day
on Fifth avenue onamay see the latest modes
from the Rue do la Palx and from Regent
street , worn with exaggerations and addi
tions. Hut all the women seem to me to
wear the same things , as If they were afraid
to exercise their Individual tastes and study
what might be specially appropriate to them
selves.
"In Paris women know what the fashions
ore nml follow them with limits. Hut they
always control their dressmakers nnd refuse
to be their slaves. Every French woman
knows her best points and her personal de
fects ; what she can and cannot afford to
beauty , can be acquired by anf 6ite'\vho will
take the trouble. Why thourof afry womsa
bs willing t : > make herself rlfll iout' ? If
yo Mant to walk well , hold joirfsjslt erect ,
don't throw your shoulders .bafck. though
you have probably often heard , ttnt piece
of erroneous advice. Just kcppJlfiom In a
natural position , Don't put your toes down
first , llko a dancing master , bnt try to make
both heel and ball of the ftot touch the
ground at once. Hold your fcody firmly ,
your head up , your chin In , ' Jihil walk a
great deal with these things In tnlhd.
I'HOMOTINO RAMlilllW.
1 *
SlKiilllvniil I'Vnlnrm ' of tlic French
Income Tax I.itw.
Harold Frederic cables to tjti | > New York
Times that the first genuine tett ot the
stab'.llty of the Bourgeois ministry In France
will come on the Income tax proposal In the
annual budget. The scheme differs In a re
markable way from all previous attempts
to apply a graduated scale to Income taxn-
ton : In that It separates Into different classes
etch Individual Income. Thus , a man with
? 15,000 a year pays 5 per cent on $5,000 , 4
per cent on $6,000 , 3 per cent on $2,000 , 2
per cent on $1,000 , 1 per cent on $500 and
the remaining sum. ot $600 Is to bo exempt.
To this extraordinary complication Is added
the Intricacy of a system by which deduc
tions nro to l > c made on account ot the num
ber of children a man bap. which , In the
case nf a largo family , might wipe oft halt
oC his taxation.
This putting ot a premium on population
Is only too excusable In France , 'where people
ple look forward with positive driail to the
results of the quinquennial census In the
coming spring , but It makes the budget
caotcr for the opponents ot the tax to assail.
Their campaign Is to be based broadly on
the fact that the proposed change , by Us
concurrent abolition of the house tax , will
relieve of all taxation 5,500,000 present tax
payers , reduce the taxes now collected from
another million nnd put on the shoulders ot
SOME FRENCH SLEEVES.
wear , and no fashion could compel her to put
on something she realizes would be unbecom
ing. I think It Is ths ! which gives'French
women the reputation for being chlu In their
dress ; chlo Is the power to make the bsst
presentation of one's self , regardless of what
any cue else may do. I think American
women should remember this more than
they do. "
LACK OF INDIVIDUALITY.
The fact Is that It may not be easy to con
vey this Idea In the cold , matter-of-fact at
mosphere of a printed column , that thin out
spoken , delightful French woman was simply
talking away as he 'felt ' and the thoughts
came to her without the least particle of at
tempt at posing or criticising. She was de
lighted with the country , with the women ,
with her reception here , and yet when her
Ideas were asked she gave them frankly.
And one of her fixed Ideas was that America
In Its streets , Its buildings. Its women , Its
customs , lacks a ) marked Individuality' and
typical national characteristics.Vlthout
saying It in so many words , for she was too
polite , ehe seemed to look nt this .country
as a rather Incongruous though Interesting
and wonderful mixture of Continental Imi
tations and dilutions. She could find Paris
here and London and Europe , but she could
not find America. j
"Why , " she said , "let me tell you of some
thing that caused mo a real disappointment.
These last two or three days I have een
driving all over New York , buying things to
bring back to Paris , and , of course , I wanted
a lot of souvenirs for my friends , something
that would possess a flavor of the land In
Which I had been. And do you know that
among all the beautiful and costly things
they showed me I could not find any bibelots
or articles of any sort that would seem to me
absolutely American. Stop a minute there was
one , the typewriter , but that was too big to
bring back by the dozen , and I am afraid
my friends would not have bsen abl& to use
it. Doesn't that seem strange to you that on
Broadway I could flnd everything that would
be on sale In the great shops of Paris or
London and scarcely anything that would
not uo on saie inure i
THE AMERICAN HUSBAND.
Wo wound up our talk with a reference to
American husbands and wives , and here
Yvetto thought that the former were to be
at once congratulated and pitied ; , congratu
lated on being married to the most brilliant
and beautiful women In the world , pitied
because it seems necessary for them' to slave
so hard to make their wives happy. She
thought the rush after money was too hot
and fierce for that even enjoyment of
domestic felicity so common in France.
It Eecmed to her that American husbands
work so hard through the day as to leave
them no strength for tbe wholesome enjoy
ment of the evening with their families ,
nnd she ventured the opinion that since
An erlcan wives are left so n.uch alone by
their husbands there might be danger of
their seeking the companionship they crave
outside the family circle. She thought It
strange , too , that In America it should be
considered bad form fop wives In moderate
circumstances to do dally work just as their
husbands do and as women often do In her
country.
"I suppose It Is all right though , " she
said with charateristlc lifting of the eye-
brews , "if the husbands do not want their
wives to work , and the wives are unwilling
to work , why everybody is happy. It would
teem queer , though , to people In France.
Why in Paris , you know , nothing is more
common than to see a wife go to the shop
every day with her husband and assist him
In the business , either selling things or utani-
Ing at the little desk , and keeping the ac
counts. Indeed , French women are often
the guiding spirit In their husbands' affairs ,
but in America It Is the fashion for wives to
know little about how tbelr husbands earn
their money , I am told though , that they
know how to spend It. "
CLEVELAND MOPPET.
TUB AHT OP AVAI.KI.VO AVI2M' .
To Do It r.rncrfiilly CiilU for Careful
Training.
Have you ever noticed how few women
walk well ? Nowadays , when the streets are
full ot all sorts and conditions of women ,
you have a good chance to watch the varie
ties of gait. Very few walk gracefully ,
says the Philadelphia Ledger , One gives
you the Idea her feet are too heavy , w un-
elastla Is her tread ; another walks as If she
Is pursued. Yet another walks as If every
step would jolt her to pieces , and there are
some students ot Delsarte who are thlnklnc
all the time just bow they must do It , and
the result Is an affectation worse than any
awkwardness. French women have a special
style of walking , pretty enough In Its way ,
and which makes their dresses hang better
than they do In America , They throw their
whole bodies forward , keeping them quite
erect all the while , so that a line dropped
from the chin would touch the bosom and
then fall sheer to the toes. The difference
Is so marked that American women are
known at once In Paris , Most of the girls
who stay long enough In Paris , howaver ,
adapt themselves to the French manner.
English girls have a distinctive walk , and
such a walk ! They have a stride which la
better adapted to flowing Greek draperies
than to gored fklrts , and the. result moves
to amazement rather than to admiration.
Walking Is an art that deserves to be cul
tivated , especially In these athletic days.
In the old-fashioned novel the aesthetic
heroine never walked. She always "moveu1
or "floated airily" or "glided. "
It Is strange that woman doesn't realize
that It Is her mission to be graceful. Wo
cannot all be pretty ; but the cbarm vt
ftece , even more potent than that ot
the remaining well-off half million the bur
den of not only making good tlUu huge defi
cit , but ot providing am extra , sum of
$1,200,000 above what the treasury now re
ceives. i
A , SOLDIER MJHSH.
t 11
Dcnervoil ItvwnrilM mill \IMV HonorM
for mi ICr.KllNli Womtni.
Miss J. A. Gray Is an English woman with
an unusual record as a hdspha'l ! nurse end
four handsome decorations to bear witness
to-- some of , her gallant aih yVinonts. At
home , that Is In London , she'jccuples ( the
position of superintending nurseif the CuIJ-
strcam Guards hospital , but hpn'the English
government decided to fit , up- the steamer
Coromandel as a floating Ifdspltoi , to cruUe
. was selected to' taTte- ' full charge
of , all thenursing facilities. Her appointment
'
ment was'declded ( upon not oyilyrlbecause 'of
her especial cleverness as superintending1
nurse , but owlng to her exceptional record
on various * occasions and dangerous relief
'
expedition's.nln'lfe79 _ , when the Zulu war
broke out , she was , In military form , ordered
to the .front , and promptly obeyed. There
she stayed through jthe war and in 1882 sailed
again for Africa , 1thls time to 'nurse the men
through the contest In Egypt. Four years
In all were spent In this last 'expedition 'to '
Africa , ' for-'at the end she was sent up the
Mile In the Gordon relief boats to Wady
Haifa at the second cataract. Twelve
months of this period she'llved under a com-
MISS J. A. GRAY. CHIEF OP THE NURS
ING STAFF.
mon army tent , and then , when the plague of
the east , cholera , was pronounced epidemic
among the regiments , she settled down to
nurse her charges through It , It was only
to be expected that wind of these plucky
doings should reach England and In the
course of her seven years of African
duty Miss Gray was formally presented
with four decorations. These are the Zulu
and Egyptian war medals , the Egyptian cross
and the royal red cross , pretty , much all tbe
hcijors In the way of pretty trinkets a skill
ful , courageous hospital nurse can expect to
gain. With this extraordinary record to her
credit Miss Gray , who Is aPfeUyspinster on
the sunny side of 40 , wasnft atffall surprised
when her order from tne. war office ar
rived , to report on hoard/ , the ! Coromandel
with two skillful undcrnursesJr There shi >
was Installed In quarters qJLhML.ewn , put in
absolute , control of the.adinlrably fitted
hospital ward , of the JOW"Q ( patent padded
berths where delirious patient * are to bo
placed and In full authority over a competent
corps of trained male nurscs.irAfter all this
charge Is about the hlghcit sjie has been
required to assume , for Hie' men who have
been fighting the wily Adhanils in the In
terior are more rapidly strlcJie/rrdown by the
severities of the climate df/ / } hardships they
mutt endure than by wcappjip ; Jn the handset
ot the rapidly capitulating [ African savages ,
anil are consequently mofo6djfllcult to coax
buck to health and flghtlux trlrn. But In
'the ' army hospital ward tlrl c .ble nurse feels
only In her element. Sho'rdfcrets the gov
ernment never sent her 1A'irl a'ward nt the
time of the- first Doer wat and ; sayg that In
careful , clever nursing women can do as
much to win victories for their country as If
they took part In actual conflicts and as
many hazards with genuine endurance and
precious bravery can bo shown In following
the flag from the nursing tents as In
shouldering a rifle with the fighting corps.
FlIHllIoilOliH. .
Marie Antoinette modes will prevail next
summer , '
Gray gowns are being ordered for spring
wear.
Engagement cups and saucers In Delftware -
ware are new.
The Trilby bouquet Is one of white lilies
and will bo much In vogue at Easter.
Not a few bridesmaids carry , In addition to
the Indispensable bouquet , muffs made en
tirely of flowers.
Bees , lizards anil dragon flies as natural as
life will bo seen nestling amid flowers and
foliage on our summer hats.
Armuro croquette U exhibited among new
itrcfs fabrics , this material showing a broken
Bedford cord ot Irregular pattern.
Plain , flowered , dotted ami Mrlpcd KM
linens of exquisite texture and coloring \ \ \ \
be In highest fashion next summer.
Ynny ot the newest evening .toilets show
bodices liberally decorated with natural How
crs , these usually fine , llko half-blown rose *
valley lilies , violets , lilacs , etc.
Two-toned basket weaves of domeMl
manufacture will bo used for Inexpcnslv
walking and traveling costumes for spring
also mohilrs and French alpacas , both plain
and fancy.
In check goods the shot effects differ from
those worn last spring , In so far as the linear
ar- > finer and run diagonally In both dire ?
tlor.s , forming small , tasteful check pa tier HP
Fancy Iridescent twill Is a very prett }
style of dress goods. It Is something like nt
English serge In weave , only there Is n
ilfl'catc doilgn on the surface , and the clotl
Is Iridescent.
Though there has been so little snow thl
season It has been a whlto winter neverthc
less. Whlto wings , white furs and whit
satin neck ribbons arc the Insignia of fashion
ncwadays ,
A pretty example of cloth In comblnatloi
with silk Is a brown cloth gown , with a
fancy silk waist In which green predominates
and the wide t overs-shaped pieces whlcl
form the collar are of cloth , stitched arouni
the edge.
A dressy and economical way ot making
over a black silk or satin gown Is the oddl
tlon ot full sleeves , vest and collar ot som
of the beautiful shot and figured taffeta silk ?
chameleon surahs , fancy tntliiF , or plaldei
silks.
Velvet never his been so universally won
as It Is this reason , nnd striped , watered am
art velvets come In for a share of favor will
the plain silk velvets , which arc always th
moro advantageous purchase because thej
are always In style.
Among the pretty evening waists Is ono o
Nile-green mtln , draped with Mechlin ne
and worn with a skirt ot the same materials
The bretellcs and wide belt are of the plain
satin , and braces of roses over the shoulJcrs
hold the bodice In place.
Among the dressy afternoon gowns of c'otl
lu one of dark Sevres blue , with a yckj o
cyclamen velvet trimmed , with squares o
"clalr de lune" embroidery , and these trln
the stole of velvet down either side of the
skirt. Mink Is us3il for the bottom finish
and for the sleeves and waist.
Large collars of whlto nionrsellne do sole
covered with a pattern of appllqu : lace am
trimmed around the eJge'wIth a frill of mus
lin edged with lace arc one of the pretties
varieties , and make a simple waist of rill
very dressy. Black silk muslin la employee
In the same way , with cream lace appllct
when lesj white Is required.
Diagonal Blurts for next E > 3ason will be In
all possible variations. In seme cases the
diagonal stripes are formed by thick bu
small colored tufts ; In others they arcIn
two distinct colors , on a soft shaggy ground
on which silky mohair threads add to th
effect.In the form of short tendrils branchln
out from the diagonal lines.
Fancy walrts are made of Persian all
handkerchiefs with bright red ground am
palm-Jeaf borders. Some are accordion
plaited and finished with bows of plain Eatln
ribbon ; others are fulled to a yoke of thl
bordering , and have a deep epaulet fallln
over tbe sleeves made of half n hnndkerchie ]
giving two points to each sleeve.
Stock collars of black ratln to wears will
shirtwaists and thin rummer drcssss appea
among the novel accessories of dress. Thej
are a simple plain stiff band , with a Inrg
cord of white satin on the upper edge am
made to button on to the waist back am
front. Over this Is a narrow black satin tie
brought around and tied In front like a man's
The new printed velveteens are of ex-
'qulsltc designs and coloring , and rival the
richest products of the Lyons looms In finish
and effect * They come In Persian and flower
brocade pattern ? , and are most useful In
furnishing a partly worn gown. Entire
bodices are made of them , and they are both
excellent In effect and low In price.
White trimmings and accessories are a
special feature of bodice decoration this sea-
so'nTand a mantle of "white seems to have
fallen over the audience at the theater as ycu
view It from the balcony. White collars ani
vests of satin and lace abound , nnd the gown
whlcl ) has not as much as a band of white
ribbon around the neck with a bow at the
back la a noticeable "exception.
The knitted jersey blouse so much worn
when golfing , cycling , skating , or taking any
other form cf vigorous exercise Is now made
in a , score of different colors and patterns.
Sllk'bands for the neck , with corresponding
bands for thq waist , are made In all colors to
match the jerseys , nnd Impart a very smart
finish' , which takes from the severity of out
line , and in fact gives It quite a dressy ap
pearance.
Among the elegant costumes worn at a
church wedding recently was cne of nun's-
gray Venetian cloth , with trimmings of nar
row sable and fine gold passementerie. There
was a yoke effect of the embroidery ending In
the fur roll , and the corded silk sleeves had a
fine arabesque embroidery at the wrists , with
fur each side of the band. The gown was
a picture of refined and novel elegance , the
muff and toque being cnsulte.
The fulness of the most fashionable sleeve
begins quite below the shoulder , which is
well defined under a Vandyke trimming of
jet , lace , fur or closely set runnings , unless
the sleeve begins at the collar , in which case
the sleeve Is quite flat below the shoulder.
Seme of the sleeve puffs are tucked their
entire length , others are clashed and finished
with puffed Insertions of contrasting ma
terial , copying the picturesque Huguenot
sleeve In style.
While It Is yet too early for spring hats
to be really In evidence , summer millinery
Is already practically decided for the season
and fancy rough straws In a great variety
of colors are to be worn. These are mixed
with shot effect , In decided contrast or plain ,
and the shapes are as varied as the colors.
The brims are gracefully fluted and the
crowns are pointed , with plaits at top , low
and square , bell shape , or sugar loaf , as
you wish , and the trlcorn hat Is commended
as especially suited to the new mode of
trimming.
Embroidery Is still n mark of exclusive
elegance , particularly the superb French
work wrought In special designs directly on
the bodice , sleeve or skirt. The Cairo gold
embroideries , which are warranted not to
tarnish , are used constantly on elegant dress
making. Some are' gold alone , others are
jeweled and spangled. They are sold In
tets , Including vest , standing collar , flaring
broadly at the sides , cuff trimmings , slcovn
caps and revers. Gold embroidery Is also
wrought on tan , silver , gray , , fawn , black
and green clotb.
To Insure the -perfect hang of the skirt
It Is still necessary to wear either a moreen
petticoat beneath the silk lined drets skirt
or to line it , at least nt the lower portion ,
with genuine horse hair cloth to give It the
requisite support without stiffness , which Is
otherwise unobtainable. Tnese linings are
very pliable and comparatively light , pro
tecting the silk lining as well as the dress
material itself , and Imparting a stylish
cachet to the entire toilet. Although severe
in outline , the fkirt Is as much of a test
of the makerls art as the most elaborate
bodice. It Is a success only when made by a
professional. Some of the newest models urn
tr'n'med , but ns many , and more , are not.
I'Vnilnliif Notc-M.
Poet Lore Is edited and published by two
women , .Miss Clarke and Miss Porter.
The Crown Princess Stephanie of Austria
Is a , mountain climber , a talented artist , and
shows more or less skill In writing.
The little town of Manellus , Mich. , has
two women on the school board , a woman
undertaker and a woman barber.
Miss Agnca Zimmerman has completed
the edition of Schumann's pianoforte works ,
upon which eho has been engaged for the
laut twelve years.
Mary A. Wisby , who was a schoolmate of
General Grant , died In Seattle recently nt
the residence of her daughter , Mrs , Jacob
Miller , She was oyer 83 years old.
Princess Marie , wife of Prince Waldemar
of Denmark , has just startled ber relatives
by having her photograph taken In a fire
man's uniform , helmet and all.
Mme , Jeanne Hugo , the granddaughter ot
Victor Hugo , who was recently divorced
from her husband , Alphonse Daudet'n eon , U
about to marry a young doctor of Paris ,
Mrs. Ollphant Is out with a vigorous de
nunciation of Hardy's latfttt novel. Grant
Allen'n recent work , and all tbe production *
of what she calls the anti-marriage league.
Hoie Hart/wick Thorpe who "
, wrote"Cur
few Must Not King Tonight , " live * in San
Diego county , California , Her fungus poew
was written whtn she was a schoolgirl cf 10.
This nas In 1SC7.
The clsver Illustrations In the "IMnok
Cat" arc made \ > y the wife of the c.Wor ,
Mrs. LHtlchnle Vmbstflftler. She nnit her
husband have a charming homo In the
Hack Hay quarter of Boston.
Mrs. Phlncai M. Uarbor of Philadelphia
U about to erect and equip at a cost ot a aut
$10,000 a seminary for girls at Annltton ,
Ala. , and haml It to the Prc bytcrUn Board
of Missions for Frefdmcn.
Mrs. Robert Louis Stevenson will hereafter
live In Sun Francisco. h r former home.
She has gone , Accompanied l-y her son and
daughter , for a brief visit to Samoa , In nider
to arrange the affairs of the defeated nov
elist.
elist.Tho
The first American novel was written In
17S9 , nnd Its author was a woman , Mm.
Sarah Wcntworth Morton , hose pseudo
nym \\.is Phllcnla. This no > el was In two
volumes , and was called "The Power of
Sympathy : or. the Triumph of Nature. "
Miss Marguerite Mcrlngton tins just fin *
Ishcd the libretto for n comic opera , the
wore of 'Which has luon composed by Mr.
Arthur Ulrd. Miss Merlngton' * play , "Capt.
Lettcrblalr , " has been most successful , and
Is marked by a sense of humor rare In
women.
The queen of the Belgians U an efficient
nurse and understands the modes of pro
cedure prescribed In the course of aid In
emergency caccs. Recently ono of her serv
ants was atttrkod with apoplexy , and the
queen made a very practical and successful
demonstration of her skill.
It would be by no means an unheard-of
thing for a woman to be a professor of
anatomy at a. university. In the sixteenth
century the Italian universities had several
in omen professors , ono at Bologna teaching
the science In question , while another was
a great mathematician.
The young Dutch maiden , Maria Cvclskons ,
who now lies asleep at Stcvcnsworth , has
beaten the record In the annals of somnolence.
On December 5 she had been asleep 220 days ,
The doctors , who visit her In great num
bers , arc agreed that there Is no dcccptlm
In the case.
Mrs. McKlnley , wjfo of Ohb's cx-governo
end the possible future mistress of the white
house , has a pretty fad of making dainty
bedroom slippers for her friends. Durlnp
the long years of her Invalldlsm she has
made nearly 3,000 pairs of these slippers
every pair of which she has given away ,
The empress of Russia has caused to 1"
built a magnificent swimming bath at tl. <
Winter palacoj It covers an area of som
1.-IOO tqurro feet , Is rlx feet deep , and U1 bul"
of white marble. Ttie young empress hr
altogether had a great many alterations maii
at the palace , which are said to have ci
tailed an expenditure of several million '
roubles.
Mrs. Nellie Marshall Shswalter of Ker
tucky , a charming society woman , has wltlili
the past few years won unusual dlptlnctlo
In the chess field , which In suppoyjd to be
long peculiarly to men. Mrs. Showalter wll
take part In the International chess mate )
by cable , which will be contested In Aprl
between the women of England and Amcrlci
Miss" Frances Power Cobbe was the first
woman regularly employed on the staff of f
London dally. Her long career of lltcrarj
and journalistic activity began fifty years ag'
with this pioneer work In London , the foun
datlon of her later success. Miss Cobbo lolc
In her reminiscences of her hard work anf
untiring labors when she was London's first
newspaper woman.
Miss Fannie Leld.esorf ot San Francises nc
longer dreads downpours of rain and drlftf
of snow. She has adopted a dress which she
considers perfect for the braving of stormp
Bloomers arc its most conspicuous feature.
They are of navy blue cloth and fall well
below the knee , where they are met b >
leggings of the same shade. The rest of the
costume centrists of a black jacket , a black
and yellow hat , and n black serge skirt lined
with moreen , but not stiffened with It. Mlsi >
Leldesorf throws It over her arm when walkIng -
Ing and drps It when In stores. In the
former position the hem of it docs not reach
( ho knees.
YALE
HAIR
TONIC
LADIHS AND GENLnMEN :
It affords me Krent iilcnsnro to cnll the nttcn-
lon of the public to Ynlc'H Kxcrlnlor Hnlr Tonic ,
which In the llrst ami only remedy known to
chemistry which positively lurnn uruy hair back
o UK orlKlnal color without dye. It him gone on
record thut MiniM. . Yale wonderful womun
chemlut him mnxlu this moxt valuable of all
chemical dlxcoverles. Mme. Yale [ icrsonnlly i'n-
dorsfM Us action nnd elven the public her solemn
cunranleo that It ha been tented In every con
ceivable way and has proved Itself In be the
ONLY Hnlr Bneclfle. It STOPS HAHl FALI.-
NQ Immediately and creatcH a luxuiloun Krnwth.
t contains no Injurious Ingredient. Phynlclans
and chemlstH Invited to analyze It. It lu not
tlcky or ( fren y ; on the contrary , It makes the
uilr soft , youthful. Huffy nnd keeps U In curl.
\ > r gentlemen und ladles with hair u little gray ,
strrakeil KTUY , entirely gray nnd with DA 1.1)
IIIADH , It IK Epeclllcnlly recommended ,
All druggists sell It It. 1'ilce , 11.00.
If nnybndy orTers a ul lllutc , uliun them.
MMC. M. YALE , Health and Complexion
HpevlallHt. Ynlo Temple of Ileuuty , 14G State
Street. Chlcngo.
TOBACCO-TWISTED NERVES ,
The Unavoidable Result of the
Continued Use of Tobacco.
IK Tin-re a Sure , Kimy nml tliilch
( if OhlnluliiK I'lTiimttrnt llellrf
friint ( ho Iliililtr
Millions of men
think they neoil stlmi
tllnnl , beratiso their
nerves nre set on lire
by tolMcco. The per-
slitent nbuso to
which the tobitcco
user subjects his
nerves ranmit po'sl-
My full to mnki- weak
the strongest num.
Chewing anj smok-
IIIR destroy m.xnhooil
nml nerve power.
What you cnll n hab
it Is n ncrvotittli&enpc.
Tobacco In the nin-
Jorlty of cnfta ilcail-
rns the foclii ! ( ! . You may not think to-
liacco Itiirtn you , but how nro you over po-
ItiK to tell how muuh bettor you woulil
feel without It unlHs you follow the ml-
vlco of 1'o ttnnnter llollirook :
Cflini ) t'ASI.'H Ol'T OV t } .
lioiHltOOK , NCI.lime 13.
Ocnllcmcn The rrrccln of No Tivllno nre truly
\\onilrrful. t liml unnl tolmoco for foily-thrro
yinm , a pound iiliiir n < ! ( . I u ofl two box ref
of No-Tn.lliip unit linvo linil 111 ilwlrn for to-
I'nco ' plnco. 1 Kn\o two l o\ra of N"o-To ltne trt
n limn nnindl Wt st , wlui hiul imul tnlmi-ro for
forty-o\pn yrnm , luul two boxes to Mr. White-
man. unit neither or them Imxo us.o.1 ( Mmcco
since imil snv thL-y lime no ileslro lor It. Over
fifty Hint I know of hnvo ueea Nn-Tn-llna
through tny Inlhipnce , ami 1 only Umnv of ont
case uhcrn It illil not euro , nnd then It wni the
fnult uf the lull-nt.
I was PI jcurs i.Ul Lint \\ccli. t Imvc RixltKil
KOMVitrrn | iumta In llmh r\ncf \ I quit Uio line of
Miai'co. You enn UKP this loiter , or miy jmrt
if It , HH > ou wluh. Ynun rraiwotfully ,
C. U IIOI.IIIIOOIC , I1. M.
Vou say It Is woiulcrlul. Indeed. It In.
Jo-To-llno enroll ovi-r 300,000 cases Just as
jail. You can be mnilu well anil BtionR by
No-To-Uac. Your own druuulst uimrnntrea
n cure. Get our booklet , "Don't Tobncco
Spit anil Smoke Your Life Away , " written
minrnntco of ctnv anil froc sample , malleil
for the ashing. Addrora , The Sterling Hem-
ily Co. , ChlcaRo or Now York.
CUKES QUICKER
TH VI ANY OTHER REMEDY.
Tnrranfe 1'xtract of Cub -
b M nnd Cn | < .ilun It n nfe ,
rrilnln nml quirk cure for
EonJilien nml irtret anil !
an o'll-lilnl remedy for nil
illiearra of the urlimry or-
Knn . Combining In n hlslilr
concent i nipt ] form the me-
illdtml * \ Illucs of cubfbt
nml cniiallm , It3 portnbls
nlmiip , freedom from tnstt
and rpecdy nvilon ( curing In
lri Ulna thnn any olher
nieruratlon ) make It THE )
MCWT VALUABLE KNOWN
I1KMEDV. To prevent fraud ,
ee Hint uscry package lm > a rod utrlp acron ll > < >
face of Inucl , with the ilgnatura of Tarrant A
Co. , N. Y. , upon It. rniCD. $1.00. Bold by all
drusrglata.
OPIUMQR MORPHINE HABIT
WI IV HI pinrLESDLY 4 rEBMAHEHTL ? CUBED
DR. 8. B. COUL.INS'
PAINLESS OPIUM ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered In 1868. "THERIAKI" Book Freo.
Office 312,78 Monroe Street ,
CHICAGO ILL.
. O. DRAWER 459. , .
\Vo tend the marvtlnus French !
RcmiMr CALTHOS f ivo , ami n I
legal RimrantcatlmtC'ALTIICs jrll'l '
RTOI ninvhnrcr Jk rmlwlani ,
CUltK FnormHtirrliru.Viirtcovc
anil ItI > TOKE Ix t Vlcor.
Uit it and fay if satisfied.
Ad.lrMi.VON MOHL CO. , ,
Bolo Jlucrrfln ! AsonU , UatlnoaU , Cblo. I
Patronize
Home Industries
liy piircIiiiHlnnr BrooiU niiulc nftlic fol
I ( Mr I it K NvbniHlcii fnctorlcn. If yoit'
cnnnot flnil irltut you want coiutiuiiil-
cute irltli < ai ! iiianufnctiirora an to
what ilcnlorH linnillc their ioodH ,
DAGS , 1J till , A I' AND TWINli.
BEMIS OMAHA BAG CO.
Minufuclurero of nil kinds of cotton and bur
lap bans , cotlun ( lour sacks und twlno a
lalty. 614-C1C-C18 S. 1111) St.
OMAHA BREWING ASS'N.
Cnr load shipments made In our own refrlff *
trator cars. Dluo Klbbon. Elite Export , Vienna
Export , nnd Family Export , delivered to all parti
of city.
COFFEE. SPICES , MAKING POWDEIU
"Ifo oTTITATEb COFFEE CO"
Coffee Roasters , Spice Grinders , Mnnufactureri
German Ialln ? Powder and Qcrman Dry Hop
Venal , 1414 and 1416 Ilarney St. , Omaha. Ncli.
FLOUU.
S. F. GILMAN.
Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour.
C. E. Black. Manager. Omaha.
I It ON WORKS.
DAVIS &COWGII.L IKON WORKS
Manufacturer ! ) and Jobbers of Machinery.
General lenalrlnK a upi-i-lnHy. 1501 , IW3 and 15(4 (
Jack on slret'I , Onmhu , Neb ,
INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS
Manufacturing end Repalilng of all kinds of
machinery , engines , IJUHIJIS. elevators , printing
pregcen , hangers , shafting ana couplings 1408 and
I40S Howard fil. . Omaha.
PAXTON& VIERLING IRON W'RKS
Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work.
General Foundry. Machine and IllacUnmllli Work ,
engineers and Contructors for Fire Proof
U-jlldlngs. onice und works : U , P. Hy. and
io , 17th street , Omaha.
NIGHT WATCH , FIUE BEUVICB.
" ' '
"AMERlCAN'lMS'fRfCT TELE-
GRAPH.
The only pel feet protection to property. Exnmlnt
I. Beat thing on earth. Iteducei Insuranc *
rales. 1304 DOURO | fit.
SIIIHT FACTOHIICS.
J. II.EVANS-NEBRASKA SHIRT
COMPANY.
Kxclualve cmtom lilrt tallcfa. :6U Farnam.
Let in the
Sunshine
of health. You can brighten
your life , banish debility and
gain strength and flesh by
the use of
TRAOC MARK.
the food drink. It is the ideal tonic , vitalizes the blood ,
unravels the snarls in your nerves , putsyour brain in proper
working order , Great nourishment for nursing mothers ,
consumptives and all sufferers from wasting diseases.
To be had at all druggists' ami grocers'
Prepared by ANHEUSER-BUSCH BREWING ASSOCIATION ,
ST. LOUIS , U. S. A.
Send for bandsomtff illustrated tolortd booMtt and otltr reading tnatltr.