r
THE ( XM.AIIA DAILY JUSIS : SUJr. JANUATtY 20. 185)0. )
SJJ
WOMAN'S
DOMAIN.
ii
STVLUS I.I'AHIS. .
\Vlmt In Cnnnlilrreil tlic Very Mo lit of
I'orin.
PARIS , Jan. 14. Do not believe that ex-
trcmo fashion consist * In novelty. It If
not true. Elegant dross Ignoring the novel
OR much conforms to the prevailing Ideal
and look * familiar.
Tim Princess Jeanne Ilonapaftc wore at a
reception the other day a gown of violet
velvet made with the skirt plain , the blouse
In plaits or gathcre , and the sleeve In a
ftlmplo balloon , reaching nearly to the elbow ,
to hero It was met by a long white glove
On the slccvea was a Jet pasaehicnlorlo rib
bon that ran from the top down part way
and then turned a right anglo and went
toward the front , nnd thete square flguron
balanced each other and gave width and
style to the figure. Round the neck was a
ruche of black chiffon , or was It of Jottci
inotisscllnc , and on the bead waa a. Spanish
tin tan , flat and all black , with jet trim
ming placed wide at the sides. The whole
composad a dres worthy a princess nnd ont
that any modestly placed woman might wear
AN EVENING DRESS.
and barring the felicitous cut , might cvoi
have been made by the sewing woman n
home. It was the most elegant dress li
nn assembly of fashionables , nnd yet I
might have been made last year or the yea
before.
Tlio further details of the princess' dress
nro Individual and do not belong to the
text , but they are Interesting and complete
a picture. They wcro a large ermlno mult
soft and flat , through which a gloved arm
was thrust to the elbow , the hand emerg
Ing clear , and n long gold-headed cane. The
head of the cano opened and held a smell
Ing bottle. The Princess Jeanne Is no
young by some decades nt least , but has
thanks to art In dress , the semblance o
45 , Her hair Is blonde and her eyebrows
are black , by nature at first hand or eec
end ; the ermlno and staff have a suggestion
of the symbolic , so as In some sort to prepare
pare the mind to see her friends bend the
IUIPO In salute.
Other gowns at this reception were o
novel cuts nnd new materials , but they did
CLOTH GOWN.
not produce the same effect ot elegance.
They liad fifteen or was It twenty godets
very precise and Louis XV basques ! by the
latest bulletin , and bore In all their lines
a mortal challenge to you to say why they
were not models of style. They advertised
too much .the accidental and the new.
Doth were equally fashionable and very
likely of equal cost , but the result of ono
was refinement and of the other a certain
vulgarity.
There la a principle that governs dress nnd
blcod alike , to wit that ago and cultivation
tend to Improve. In life It makes aristocrats ,
or , .If you like , refined persons ; In dress It
ir-akes beauty. An Idea In dress first
launched Is likely to bo crude and only
time and art will subordinate and har-
monlzo It to the figure. It Is
jui upstart whoso titles are not yet
good , an experiment that may or
may not nucceed ; It finclls of the shop as
it were. Hut once accepted and modified
by artists ) It becomes a decoration and ac
ceptable to taste. This IB why the elegant
woman with aristocratic , or ahill we eay
CLOTH AND PLUSH DUKSS.
cultivated , Instinct , chooses a form that Is
familiar and scorns the novelties. It may be
all true that crlnolatcd collars have ap
peared , that pompadour bodices are the rage ,
and that tklrts and sleeves are split length-
wlua to show trimmings ; he may know that
poau de tote la a later corner In the market
than gro grain , but she does not care. She
understands that these are Incidentals that
neither make nor unmake the fashion. Her
Idea U a conservative one ; It U not to differ
but to conform ,
U you go Into the shops of Parla that
cater to a retlnc-J cllentelle you will be
* . . astonished at the simplicity of the carmenti.
It is not fashion that 1 convulsive , It U
the pattern sellers , that wish , to keep up
ft itMdjr market for aoveltle * . TO under
this should be to save both the ap
pearance and the put so.
KASHIONAULK DAY TOILETS.
Made for travel down to Cannes , a navy
blue gown nlth cape. The skirt In stitched
and the bodice U a jacket , several Inches
longer than the waist , fitted behind and
loose and very open In front , over a dull
old rose taffeta blouse. Straight revcrs be
gin half way up the front and run Into a
collar of the name width. The edges arc all
stitched , The Jacket It lined with black
Hlk. The blouse has a wide. pUlt with a
cluster of line tucks down the middle of It
and a plaited ruffle on each edge. The cape
Is long enough to cover the jacket , Is round
and IB In three overlapping ruffles , the ruffles
standing out full at the edge , and all lined
and rtltchod. There Is
a high turn-over col
lar and In front a large rosette of blue
satin ribbon with long ends. Not a touch of
trimming , not A trace of fur Is abut this
dress , but ltt > style Is In Its cut and Its
simplicity , and ltt > Ktyle Is great. The hat Is
a black velvet sailor with a roeette and
pompon at one side toward the front.
Made equally for wear at Cannes , a black
serge gown with Jacket. The skirt ti
stitched In parallel rows from the edge up
twelve Inches. The Jacket Is fitted behind
and looc and double-breasted In front , blind
fastened , with equate revcrs and moderate
sized collar , and la finished with stltchlngs.
A foulard blouse Is worn under It of blue
and green Scotch tartan , made up on the
ttrnlght. It IH shirred In front and back ,
rather deeply In the back so as to keep
It flat , and there Is a plait down the front.
The sleeve ? have the close lower part shirred
In the scam. The collar Is on tlio bias. For
near \vlth this a sable ba and muff and a
black velvet hat of medium size , turned up
behind with black plumes and mauve
flowers , and finished In front with a strass
and pearl buckle.
This model was recently carried out In
gray cloth for the Infanta Eulalla , with the
jacket garnished with velvet facings and
crocheted buttons ,
CLOTH GOWNS.
Cloth , unlike serge , having n full Hat sur
face , demands trimming. It Is Improved by
velvet and fur , and both are used. A gown
of dark blun cloth with plain skirt has 11
blouse trimmed with green and blue plaid
velvet. There Is a double box plait down
back nnd front with a fold of the velvet
set under on each side , and a collar and
belt of the velvet , draped and fastened be
hind. This town was made for a young
woman for wear under a chinchilla rape.
I have seen three cloth gowns of exquisite
make , two belonging to a Slav princess liv
ing In Paris , nnd the third made for a star
of the Comedlo Krancals , Unit are thus de
scribed : The first Is of mauve cloth , mnuve
velvet and sable. The cloth skirt Is bor
dered with fur. The long-sleeved blouse Is
entirely of velvet and extends four or live
Inches below the waist line 1.0 as to form
a little basque. The Russian belt Is of gold
and silver cloth with enamelled clasps.
Sable tippet and muff. Large hat ,
all black. The second Is of
dark myrtle green cloth and plush of the
same color. The sk'rt Is faced some fif
teen Inches deep with the plush , and near
the top of the plush are several rows of
narrow green soutache braid , The bodice Is
a bolero with the fronts draped in plaits ,
and opening over a bouffant cf cream lace
over yellow. The floating revers and collar
are faced to match the skirt. A cape of the
plush , with lines of soutache near the edge ,
Is very full and Is so cut as to fall partly
by godets and partly by gathers from the
neck. A very wide- turnover collar Is faced
with chinchilla. Tills with a chinchilla muff
forms a very handsome visiting dress.
EVENING DHESS.
For some guests going down to the
chateau of Damplerre , where the duchess of
Luynes has been giving some fetes , one
of thn ilrp.ssmflkprH nrov.'dpd the fnllow-
Ing : An evening gown of gray-blue velvet.
The skirt was plain and slightly long round
the back ; the bodice , a blouse with three
box plaits In front and back , the front fallIng -
Ing slightly over the belt , and the ncqk cut
square and finished with a simple blnd'ng ;
the sleeve a ehort puff. For all trimming
a drapery of lace passing over each shoul
der and down to the belt in back and front ,
the two draperies being quite .separate. A
dinner gown composed of black velvet skirt
and yellow satin bodice , cut In basque form ,
the basque with an Irregular slashed edge ,
very ornamental , and long double pointed
revers faced with white lace. H opened
over a cream lace front very much draped.
Cfillar and belt of orange velvet , the bjlt
showing only across the front. Another all-
black guwn was of Jetted tulle mounted over
silk. The bodice had the lining cut down
to give a square decollete , leaving the tulle
high. The sleeve reached the elbow. The
sk'rt border , belt and collar bind were
of heavy glistening cut Jet.
ULTRA-ARISTOCHATIC.
While people pf taste seek to appropriate
what is beautiful In the fashion , there exists
at Paris , as there exists elsewhere , a class
of women so superlatively aristocratic , so
anxious to differ from the rest of the world ,
that they exclude from their dress not only
novelty but beauty as well. This phenom
enon has its Interest. These people do not
underrate beauty , but they know It Is the
end sought by ordinary mortals and there-
frn. . Itu vnlltn. la r1nninrlf ) t f/I fnv > t Tt am TIID
necessary to them to have something ex
clusively theirs , and so they possess them
selves of the ugly , of which they are mod
erately sure to remain in undisputed pos
session. Every one to his fancy.
This class has this season evolved a fur
jacket that costs a lot of money and Is as far
removed from the possibilities for beauty In
the actual mode as a wall flower Is from a
laughing rod rose. Mais , que voulez vous ?
It is eminently respectable ,
The jacket In question Is of curly as
trakhan , cut after the common model of this
winter , with fitted back nnd half-loose front.
A meager collar and revers surround the
neck , and the sleeve Is cut with a small
dumpy bag at the top. In such shape that
beside all the beautiful forms now being
made no one would wish to dispute a patent
upon it. But It does not do to give too much
pleasure to the eye. ADA CONE ,
FI.OWKIt COMIIIVATIOJVS. i
\uvfllli-H In lliulH mill llloHNoiim ije-
velopfil liy Sfiuirt IIunteNMt-N.
Few of those who entertain at this season
can afford to give carte blanche to a florist
for his beautiful wares , yet there Is no need
to bo discouraged. If orchids are out of
reach , lilacs , provided they can bo obtained
In the season , are cheap , and It Is to be
remembered that every flower has a beauty
of Its own , and , If properly treated , will
furnish grateful results In obedience to a
tasteful mind and skillful fingers.
What would the Scotch peasants say If
they could see lovely misty plants of heather
which sweeps over the moors far as eye
can reach selling on Fifth avenue and Broadway -
way at $8 and $5 a plant ? How they would
augh at the Idea of this plant so common
to them for decoration. Yet the lovely
> ead-lke | blosscma , with their tinge of purple
ilnk , are among the very latest crazes In
he floral world. Tied and festooned with dull
oe satin ribbon , they make perfect con-
erpleces , and nprlgs laid at each plate with
he menu card , bearing a Scotch motto and
a thistle , have become very popular as a new
loral device1 for ( Illinois.
Formal set pieces have gone out of fashion ,
being supplanted by graceful and natural
arrangement.
Ono of the most fashionable and beautiful
methods of table decoration Is a basket filled
and completely covered with the luxuriant
and graceful falency fern , whose one end
contains a bunch of purple cattleya orchids ,
or the favorite green and brown cyprepedlum
resembling the old " "
"Jack-ln-the-Pulplt , and
he other a cluster of roses. These should be
arranged gracefully , and either an orchid
or a small bunch of the game roses tied with
a satin ribbon of the Identical hue should bo
aid at each plate or grouped In a similar
tasket and handed to the guests at the close
f the dinner.
When the cattleyas are used alone the as-
> aragus feiu is preferred , though the maiden-
ialr fern a tut the falency fern are alto ad
missible.
The great rub In ti.ble decoration U to
keep strictly to om > or two kinds of flowers ,
using their own foliage whenever possible ,
or something -that harmonlsen with the
hosen blossoms in sentiment , form or color.
Many flower * have their fathlonable aeeo-
clt flovtwi , ( or la tanc , wltU th roe
pink carnations the florists always combine
the delicate white sprays of stcvla , which
seem to throw a veil of beauty over the stiff
blossoms ,
U Is easy enough to Imitate some of the
latest London combinations , which arc :
Mauve orchids , gold roses and dark Ivy :
pink roses and green orchids ; salmon colored
geraniums , white roses and Ivy ; water lilies
and pink roses , with the simple rose
stem for green ; water lilies and
grasses ; Iris and grasses ; Iris and cop
per beech leaves ; pink gladioli and grasses ;
pink peonies , white marguerites and pink-
veined caladlum leaves ; cattleyas In Benares
Kilt bowls ; yellow roses and lilies of the
valley : white lilac and daffodils ; while Illlos
and scarlet amaryllls with the green spikes
of the latter ; syrtnga , heliotrope and maid
enhair fern ; flame-colored tulips and white
splrea ; pansles , Glolre dc Dijon roses and
mignonette with ferns ; purple heather In
silver vases ; and a charming combination Is
of popples , cither scarlet or pink. With
green wheat.
.vu A iiou si.nn.
Illonniem mill lllunkrt Contn for
Con N tern.
The big bob sled has this winter cut the
well-patronized tcboggan off two years of
growth In popularity ; at least , that Is the
opinion of the new athletic woman of the
east.
east.She
She used to think toboggan'ng about the
best tun t ? bo had In the way of sliding
down a snowy Incline , and some of her ad
venturous kind even tried to take these
Indian flyers over the most reckless looking
hlllr , hanging on behind and steering w th
the right foot , but bloomers have changed
all th--.t.
Bloomers have made It possible for a
woman who likes outdoor fun to take
the captain's seat on an eight-foot long bob
sled and carry a load of screaming , excited
passengers down the longest incline at Tux
edo park. Of course , no woman can do
this who is weak of wrist , uncertain of
ankle and apt to get rattled In the face
of a little danger , because It requires nerve
and muscle to manage a bob sled In style
and safety , but the new athletic woman
knows what she's about. The bicycle has
put sinew Into her nether limbs which she
clothes In full woolen bloomers and from
the knees down she dresses herself In the
heaviest golf stockings and dongola laced
bcots.
In the captain's ssat she sits with the
big steering bar between her knees , braces
her feet between the drag brake and then
somebody gives her a lift over the hill's
crest. In her opinion , piloting an eight-foot
sled on a three-quarter cf a mile run must
bo as cxhllarat'ng as standing at the throttle
of an express train and the first woman
who tried It this winter at Tuxedo has al
ready a noble army cf Imitators of her own
sex.
sex.A number of women own club sleds ,
big $14 fellows , and to relieve the rather
severe effect of the bloomers wear hand
some Canadian blanket coats , reaching half
"HypatU" may be both IntcrJAVylnd rtlmu-
lated by "Robert Ord'a Atonement. "
But for the girl who 1 taro with that
rare and precloup gift , a tasjq.ro literature
per PC what a ( lell8htsomoltU roublcsome
task to regulate and train Hlj Shej will enjoy
LeJthcrstocklng , and fcssl 95 ( " "Pavld Cop-
perfleld , " nnd with a little , ' | uaclous ( skip-
pink' , such as even her elders JInd Involun
tary , will relish "Wavcrly.'J You can en
chain her Interest and Imagination by the
story of the lonely lives on tie | moors of
Hnworth , and so give a greater zest to her
pleasure In "Shirley.yeitward Hoi" nnd
"Ravcnshoo" will rouse thp heroic In her
blood ; "Lorna Dsono" btlngsi her close to
nature and feeds the taste for ) Incident and
action ; Stevenson's touch will tcaph her the
marvelous use of words aad the exquisite
delight of style ; even Jane Austen's dainty
prc-Raphaclltlsm will appeal to her as her
finer senss develops. You can fill her so full
of wholesome dainties that thcro will be no
craving for the stimulant of modern poison.
If the mother will read with her , encourage
the discussion ot books , study and defer In
a measure to her taste , while making It n
rcrlous business to guide It , there need be no
fear cf contamination through the pages ot
a novel.
People are taking mattere more setlously
now than was the wont of pld ; questions ot
education , the study of child-nature , all
psychological Investigations am ] experiments
nro the fads of the time. Thoughtful women
In conclave assembled have'recently dlsctissad
the Immoral tendency of fairy talcs and the
crying necessity of shielding Infant minds
from the polluting Influences of "Jack tlio
Giant Killer" and "Puss In Boots. " Will
these earnest reformers go a step further ?
Do their daughters read Indiscriminately the
works of Thomas Hardy , Sarah Grand nnd
Grant Allen ? Has It ever occurred to them
to study the boundary line between a whole
some , because natural and simple , knowledge
of these existing realities of life with which
a well brought up girl ! s likely to come face
to face , and the unnecessary nnd defiling
study of moral disease ? Leave the little clill.
LATE WINTER TOILETS.
way to the knees and caught in at the waist
by broad sashes of blue or scarlet.
LITEIlA'l'imU FOIL GIHLS.
'A. Flooded Market I'rexeiitM n .Si-rlou
I'rohleiu for 1'nroiitH.
Given the Indifference of parents , and
given the literature of the day as It Is
piled upon every book counter and cheap
stall , says Leslie's Weekly , does not the
question of a young girl's reading become
rather a serious one ? Twenty years ago
the' problem was simpler , because aprrt
from the great fact that the writers of
that date were still content to deal mainly
with the decencies and amenities of life ,
and disposed to kc p the vllenesses of hu
man nature at least as far In the back
ground as society usually puts them apart
from this , the cheap book counter and the
paper covered "libraries" of reprints were
things unknown. Unless a girl was pos
sessed of strong literary taste and a thirst
for reading she would rarely treat herself
to the purchase of a book. Now , at a cost
of from 5 to 60 cents , aha can acquaint
herself with all the poclal questions of the
day , and on her way home from school ,
at the xpcnse ot a single car faro or an
Ice cream noils. , can become thoroughly In
itiated Ir the Innermost depravities of hu
man nature.
How Is It to bo prevented ? What are
girls to read , apd how Is a pure taste in
literature to be awakened and educated ?
All sorts of lists have been drawn up by
all sorts of people , mainly men , and offered
as guides to the young wanderer In the
paths of fiction ; and all these lists , indi
vidually considered , are more or less fail
ures. Dickens and Scott are the best pos
sible beginnings for a novel reader , but not
every girl wants to read Dickens and Scott ,
You cannot force her to enjoy the cssent.ally
manly fun of Pickwick or of Charles O'Mal-
ley , whnlosoine and jolly as are the English
and the Irishman ; she may refuse to stum
ble thro'jgh the delicious Scotticisms of the
"Antiquary , " and declare the "Bride of
Lammermoor" tedious , and "Ivunhoe"
"deadly stupid. " If her toul craves the
society novel , and the modern man and maid
If George Eliot Is too philosophical ,
Charlotte Bronte too sentimental , and Thacke
ray too dldatlc and satiric , what are you to
do ?
All girls are supposed to find Mlsa Alcott's
eminently jolly books an absolute necessity
of mental diet. To our mind these books
are not the best helps to the formation of
a pure taste , nor Is , their essentially narrow
view of life a very fair one. The girl of
average Intelligence , whoso reading we might
be called upon to direct , should make the
acquaintance of Miss Yonge's populous and
cheerful families. In preference even to the
"Little Women" of provincial Concord-
families whose moral code Is as pure and
high and strong and unihaken as tbelra ,
and whose manners , If we may be allowed
to say It. are Infinitely better. Or there IP
the prolific author of "Not Like Other GlrU"
her Btorleo are on every 6-oent counter , but
they are bright , iweet , wholesome torle > ,
full of goodncs * and purity and healthy senti
ment. The daughter who yawn * over "The
21111 oa the Flout , " or "Kidnaped/1 or
dren to the tender mercies plrtHpns.Ander-v ,
ien nnd Grim.m the aptly * , nsmed-r-but/-
pity let ) us try ta.keepith.e mlnd'of .glrliopd ]
clean and Its Imagination wholesomeSocner
or later the budd'ng woman must painfully
learn what fallen humanity is , but lot her
learn It In pity andtwlth prayer , that by her
knowledge she may help to raise It ; not read
ing the foul story as pastime for an idle hour.
And even In giving her the sad If needful
knowledge , let us spare her the.horrors of the
d'ssecting roonr and shut tho'door en those *
cabinets of bottled monstrosities which the
flir fle sleclo novelist labels studies In human
nature. _
Sliqi' W1NI1OW
Lay FlpriirrM IU-Nciul > l - Well
Kiioivii Actn-HHi-M.
The high-born wax ladles In the shcps
used to be foreigners , generally they come
from Vienna. Ths natives We'o compara-
slvely plebeian ; their complexions wereIn -
feilor and their hair wig-like- . .
But within the last two years the art and
tradeof mr.klng wax figures has been br > ught
to a high degree of perfection"1n ! New York
City. More and more of theAi are used In
the show windows , and the fiuo full length
ores , even when homemade , cost from $150
to $200 each. The fine figures for the muse
ums are still more expensive.
Inferior figures were formerly copleU from
ono another or modeled according to .in\-
slipshod device that suggested Itself. But
now the two or three first-class wax model
ers in the country all work from the living
mcdel. The head Is first roughly shapeJ In a
plaster mold , Its general proportions thus
fixed , and then the artist toorks up detail ?
with his eye on the pretty girl he has hired
to pose for him. He does not patronize the
models that serve academicians ; painters go
In for the suggestive , the expressive ; what
he wants first and last Is smooth , contours
and regular features. The young Italian
girls of the east side furnish most of his
favoritetypes. . He says they are the most
regularly pretty class in New York. The
hair In good figures Is put In hair by hnlr
with a hot needle ; It can then be combed
and washed and dressed Just like human
locks.
The dry goods shops often llko their figures
to resemble popular actresses ; Ada Rohan Is
a favorite with them. The artist gets hie
Ilkenesa from photographs used with the besl
model for the purpose he can find. One
girl Is in great request because she markedly
resembles Modjeska. Each different manu
facturer has a private rcclpo for compoundIng -
Ing his wax , and that secret bo will divulge
to no one.
Papier macho figures are Jnuch cheaper
than wax , but are also much' less admired
by the- passing crowds. Their wocdeny
hair Is their hopeless
lnrer/loyjtyjf.and / a man
Is now trying to invent opui'ewaV | to put
real hair on them. The blg-drj gpods dealerc
pay large and regular hair $ lrfls.lns bills , for
professional combing of the lialjvpf their lay
_ 1JIa ! nc
UOOIJ OLD QUILTIJfG"
Tlicy Are IlcLMunlnir INipUlifr
In \c > v
York FiiNliloiiuliliClretH ! ,
A New York hostess has hll' ' Jon a clever
Idea , to which her circle Jjf : ' intimates are
looking forward with a dealijqr pleasurable
anticipation. It Is a "qullllms bee" of the
real , old fashioned sort sapslthd Now York
Journal. One of the o-called"l'niw women , "
who Is supposed to sniff a JiTs revival of
early century Institutions , } -tjieso days of
progress and reform , will exhibit ; . with pride
a quilt which "grandmotheV fmaile. " There
Is one noticeable distinction ' ( k-tt een grand
mother's quilt and that of 'tho present day ,
The former Is of patchwork , while the latter
Is on a more artistic and less laborious scale ,
In olden days It required months to gather
up the odd blu of calico and piece them1 to
gether In patterns known as the "Irish
chain , " "log cabin , " "sunrise. " "Philadel
phia Pavement" and "Jacob's Udder , " while
the modern quilt Is ot white sateen , with a
border In colored applique and a quilted cen
ter ; or , again , the applique patterns are
scattered over the entire surface.
For a quilting bee of modern daya the Invi
tation reads "from 4 to 7 p. m , " an throe
hours' time Is quite as long a : the fin de
slecle woman cares to upend In sowing. But
then she can drop In late , If ohe wishes ,
and need not fill In the whole time. The
quilting frame consists of two poles , upon
which the quilt la stretched and which reit >
upon two wooden horvei , If the spread Is
to be all white , with an sppllqued border
and a quilted center , the pattern U already
marked out , and all fluit la required of the
guest I * to come armed with scUaorg and
thimble. A pretty design for the border l
the sunflower , poppy , lotus or daisy , con
ventlonallzed , In yellow , red , pink or blue
sateen ftlth green leaves ; or a simpler
method still la to cut a pattern ot flowers
from French cretonne and applique It upon
the border , the edges being neatly hemmec
down. A centerpiece of these flowers , prct
tlly grouped , may be added If so desired.
For the nursery bed the "brownie quilt" Is
qulto a novelty. These stamped brownies
may be bought at nearly all dry good shops
and with a little taste and Ingenuity may be
arranged In various curious and amuslni
postures upon a white or colored ground , am
afford a deal of amusement for the llttls ones
under the coverlet. Gentlemen are not ex
cluded from the "quilting bee , " and may af
ford nnmp llttln Arrmapniftnt hv Inndlnp n
hind at the sowing , even If It must , per
force , bo ripped out again. Dinner may be
served to the assembled guests at 7 o'clock
and a more picturesque effect Is the result I
the ladles drcs * In the mode of a century ago
with a flowered tunic , a white kerchief and a
mob cap , or powdered hair , with black
court plaster patches here and there on the
fair faces. Dancing may follow , with a co
tillion under soft candlft light , and while very
much sewing may not have been accom
plished , a deal of sport may bo derived from
this novel mode of entertainment ,
A ni.tiiTlsiTAss'nn.vtJTY.
The VOIIIIK I.mly Who Will ChrlMti'ii
( lie Wnr Ship Kentucky.
News from Lexington , Ky. , Is to the effect
that great satisfaction Is felt there because
of Scc-etnry Herbert's selection of Miss Har
riet n. Richardson of that city to christen the
now warship Kentucky. Ever slnco It was
announced that the new battle ship was to bo
named the Kentucky , there has been much
speculation In the Blue Grass state as to
which of Its many beautiful women would
have the honor of breaking the conventional
bottle. There Is reason to believe that ap
peals on behalf Of Sf > vr > rnl hnllno Imvn lioon
spnt to Washington , Congressman Owens ami
other distinguished Kentticklnns nt the cap
ital acknowledging ns much. The honor \\na
entirely unsolicited by cither Miss Illchai-d-
son or nny of her friends , nnd this makes li
not „ . ' . ? , moro of a surprise. It Is
difficult tn see how she was chosen ,
however. She is well known In Washington
and New York society , and there Is little
uotibt that unknown to her or her relatives
the secretary of the navy was Influ
enced on her behalf by distinguished social
aniunlntanrcs.
-Miss R'chardsnn Is a southern of southrons
and , above evcryth'ng else , a Kentuclf'an.
mn I ? great Brand-daughter of Captain
ullllam Hall Richardson of revolutionary
rime , a great nleco of Commodore Baln-
hrldgo , and on her mother's side a descendant
of JcfTerion Davis. Her father , the late
Colonel William Hall Richardson , was one of
the most famous turfmen of his day. His
home was Elk Hill , on a picturesque spot In
the blue grass , near Lexington , where upward
of a score of years ago this youngest daugh
ter of an Interesting family first saw the
blush of morn , nnd In the dnyy of her child
hood dashed over paddock and pasture
mounted on the fleet-footed racers , who so
often carried to victory the "silk" of her
father's Jockey.
A season or two ape Miss Richardson
passed some time In Washington while on
her nny to Europe. While In the capital
she was the recipient of numcroii' < social
honors , particular attention being paid her
ty Secretary Herbert and family. On her re
turn home , aftsr a year spent abroad , slip
sent to Miss Herbert , with her compliments ,
a bottle of 43-year-old bourbon from
the wine cellar of Major B. G. Thomas. , "tho
sage of Dlxlann , " and the most famous of
Kqntucky's pioneer turfmen. From the sec
retary she- received a grateful acknowli'lg-
ment for the rare ol I liquor. Mr. Herbert
said that Pres.dent Cleveland hnd been aiming
thoM favored with a taste of the- whisky ,
and that the chef : magistrate of the nation
hd toaste.l the fair donor enthusiastically" ?
Fnnhloii Xoti'H.
Sk'rts ' for spring will benarrower. .
Delft luncheons ar > pronounced ver chic.
.
T > nptlfi .nH nf real nlintnc nrn nnvnl litlt nn *
decorative. *
i Large visiting cards , almost square , arc
the proper thing. > '
Buttdns of brown and white brilliants are
new and pretty. '
A swinging basket hao taken the place of
the old-fashioned eradleb.
The black veils with a thin edge of white
lace are becoming very popular.
Black hats with aigrettes and choux of
white are much the vogue in Paris.
I Wall paper in white and single clusters
of poppies scattered here and there Is new.
Bracelets are coming back and the fad
of wearing them over gloves is again re
vived.
Gauze rlboons will b ? popular next sum
mer , along with end-of-last-century cos
tumes.
Theater coats are becoming more and more
gorgeous , but people ) of good taste cling to
the happy medium.
The bustleIn a modified form is abroad In
the land , and has already been donned by
some of fashion's most faithful devotees.
Ladles' cloth and lustrous ribbed silk will
be used In combination on spring dresses for
church vcar , , dinners , calling , etc.
Some of the new neck garnitures consist
of Parisian figured ribbons with narrow yel
low lace frllleJ on vertically every three
Inches.
Yellow , In all the shades of the nasturtium
and every tint between cream and gold , Is in
fashionable favor this season for collars and
vests of dark wool gowns.
Colored moire silks , which are watered In
such a manner that there Is a distinct pat
tern , are very popular for waists , and are
also used for revers and collars on gowns and
cloaks.
Small ylde combs with very fine gold or
jewelled tops , or set with Frenc'r brilliants ,
are extremely popular. Not only are they
ornamental , but they servo to keep the hair
neat.
Same of the new black gloves come
stitched with red thread. This makes them
look smart. It also adds to their general
usefulness , becauss gloves of that kind may
be worn with a variety of gowns.
Black taffeta ribbon , four Inches wide , with
a half-Inch edge of black oatln carried
around the neck once- and arranged In a big
fiailnR bow at the back , makes a chic stock
suitable for all occasions.
Emeralds , with rubles second In favor , are
said to bo the leading Jewels of this season ,
always excepting the diamond , which Is ever
first. Opals are also popular at present , and
pearls are considered especially suited to
younc ladles.
The Indications are that the skirt and n at
style will continue In favor for ordinary
walking , shopping , and traveling costumes ,
and that mohairs , cheviots , English tweeds
and uergea will be the fabrics used for
these.
Handsome cloth gowns show a novel con
trast In having the Beams open and
stretched down on both sides over cloth of
a contrasting color. A black broadcloth
over crimes' ) mikes a striking combination.
Quaint-looking berthas are made of light
figured silk and edged with narrow ruflles.
Some of these dress decorations look much
like regalias , or lodge decorations. When
the long tabs come down below the jacket
the effect Is rather odd. '
A Porislaji novelty which adds to the
elegance of an afternoon or evening toilet
Is a fancy fan case. It looks like an ex
aggerated spectacle case covered with beads
and hung from the belt like a chatelaine.
The beads may be In colors to match the
gown or In direct contrast to It. A case of
this kind which will go nicely with different
toilets has a background of black sprinkled
with gilded beads.
New weaves and colorings In repped wools ,
vicuna cloths , roughly woven English serges ,
hop-eacklng effects In Bilk and wool mix
tures , mohairs , and French cashmere In
fancy designs or In rich monochromes are all
In the hands of fashionable modistes who are
already making quaint , quiet and ulegant
costumes for the Lenten sea Eon , and also
planning novel and exceedingly smart gowns
( or Easter time.
Persian-velvet blouses are as yet too novel
to be seen very often , but those In lovely
delicate effects seen at the opera and occa
sionally In theater boxe * were garnltured
either rich cream Venetian lace Jabots ,
and wrl t frills , or with elaborate jewelled
and spangled passementerie and applique
pieces In oriental designs and colors , The
sklfta worn with these waists are usually
black eatln duchense , broche , ellk crepon or
dark green corded ellk or satin ,
In sple ( of the fact that the Immenie
leeve ha been frowned upon In high quar-
teri , fa hlon blo women In toclety continue
to appear In clcovos quite as voluminous as
ever. At a recent very elegant dinner In
this city , observing gursti ncto tbtn and
thcro convinced th t , though women may
consent to defer to fashion regarding the
flto of sleeves on every-diy gowns' , It Is al
most certain that It will take much longer
to reconcile them to any great reduction
.where evening lollets are concerned. They
appear to cling to the huge , sleeves with
qulto ns much tenacity as to the long-
walsted gowns.
Among the new things for spring will ap
pear coats of various shapes and lengths ,
most of them happy mediums between the
ovor-long-aklrted ptyles of a year ago and
the bobbed-oil shapes of this winter ; also
round waists with stylish elegant belts and
hnrklf > < t. Krpneh rrillncntos nnd trimmed
princess * dresses , ' gowns with pcplum overskirts -
skirts , tunics and slight panlerr ; yoke-top
kilted skirts , gored skirts , slightly reefed In
circumference , and those slashed nnd pan
elled , will all be seen , nnd for garnitures to 111
appear elaborate bruldlng * In Greek key or
vine devices , arabesques , and purely con\cn-
tlonal patterns , fpnnglcd gimps and passe
menteries , leather bands' , ribbons'In rows or
points , nnd jet and fine gold galleons In
Vandyke designs.
Feminine Nolcn.
The post of secretary of the Utah senate
Is filled bya woman , Mrs. Pardce.
Miss Allco Uothscnlld has n passion for
flowers. Her collection of rosss alone Is
\\orth $ .r > 0,000.
Mrs. II. H. Kltson of Bopton enjoys the
distinction of being tlio first and only woman
admitted Into the National Sculpture society.
Yvetto Gullbcrt Is a talented artist In nd-
dltlon to her other accomplishments. The
best portrait of Mmc. Gullbcrt has been re
cently completed by Yvetto.
The duchess of Bedford has become a
patroness of the Dublin Homo for Starving
and Forsaken Catr , nnd has given n hand
some check to aid the work.
Mine. Jeanne Hugo , the granddaughter of
Victor Hugo , who was recently divorced
from her hupbnnd , Alphotuxj Dindct's son , Is
about to marry a young doctor In Paris.
Mrs. Harmon , wife of Attorney General
Harmon , llko the marchioness of Lome and
L-idy Aberdeen , tries to make the lives of
her domestics as cheerful and happy as
possible.
The English comic paper , Judy , has Just
been purchased by a woman. She IB so
overflowing with good humor that the re-
spon-ilbllltlcg of the publication will be as a
sufptv vnlvn.
Ex-Queen Ulluokalanl of Hawaii and her
nlpce. tVo Prlncoss Victoria Kalulanl , will
vlolt London In the spring and Aurtrla later.
They contemplate building n castle In sunny
Italy.
Mrs. Ollphant , who Is the oldest of living
novelists , has Just written an article which
Is a protest against the typo of fiction of
srach books "as "Jude , the Obscure , " and
"Tho Wemnn Who did. "
Miss Clara Barton desires that all dona
tions to the Armenian fund should be pent
to Mr. E. G. Kplth. cashier of the Metropoli
tan bank , the Temple , Chicago , as ho Is na
tional trearurer of the Armenian Hellcf
society.
The queen of Portugal Is addicted to mas
culine pursuits. She Is passionately fond of
hunting , and has been E > acn to herself thrust
the knife Into the throat of a dying stag.
Her lov for a bull fight Is notorious.
Mlrs Piper , A. H. E. , of London , who I ?
the only Icdy etcher of original architec
tural subjects on a large scalp , Is now com
pleting two new fwrlpa of etchings nnd Is
about to publish a work on ecclesiastical
irchltccturo.
It Is Interesting to know that Miss Nornh
Hopper , whose Irish ballads and verses are
the mort alrtlnctlvely Celtic of all the new
Irish school of writers , has never set foot
upon the Emerald IE > ! C.
Pearl Eytlnge. at one time one of the most
popular actresses on the American stage , IB
dying In Now York of alcoholism. She once
received columns of praise. Now she gets
a paragraph. Such Is fame. fame.
Mlta nnrhol rtamnron. a daughter of Don
Cameron , the Pennsylvania senator. Is'con
sidered the most beautiful young woman In
Washington society today. She Is raid to
have a charming personality as well.
Miss Rachel Frank , who Is the first woman
rabbi , In so far as Hebrew ecclesiastical lav
will permit the Innovation , has recently bee/
welcomed by the congregation of Tempi
Emanuel In San Francisco , the most arlsto
cratlc synagogue of "tho west.
Mrs. Mary J. Holmes , a novelist , living In
Boston , has Just brought suit for divorce
against her husband , William Holmes. This
lady Is not the well known Mary J. Holmes ,
liut bears the same name , to the annoyance
of the original Mary J.
George Eliot's grave at Hlghgate. London ,
presents sign" of neglect , but a sprig of Ivy
a ovorl time ago crept from the tomb of
3eorge Henry Lewes nnd clings around the
has ? of th ( > column erected In memory of the
woman whosa life was so Interwoven with
his.
MIsa Ida Monroe of San Francisco recently
accomplished what she considers a simple
feat at of painting her mother's house.
She Is also an adept at driving nails , fixing
'enceo and the like. She does all such work
n her bicycle bloomers.
Mls Dora Kohn of San Francisco , Col. , Is
the first American or English woman who
has nvnr reached 80 decrees north latitude.
She celebrated the event by planting the
stars and stripes on the island of Spltzber-
; en , amid the cheers of fifty-two European
scientists who composed the party.
Mr ? . S. A. Bushnell , wife of Governor
nushnell. Is a most artistic lady , and has
lust had the walls of her apartments hand
somely decorated In delicate colors , each
room different from the other. Mrs. Bush-
lell Is the proud possessor of many beautiful
curios and costly tapestries.
Sarah Bernhardt Is devotedly attached to
her daughter-in-law , the Princess Jable-
nowska , , who married . Maurice Bernhardt ,
and ai'aumes the role of grandmother with
great enthusiasm. She often says : "I take
nero Interest In these young people than In
all my plays. "
The queen regent of Spain Is a confirmed
smoker of cigarettes , and when at work Ig
oeldom without one between her lips or In
a box near at hand. It Is the especial pleas
ure of "Bubl" ( his Catholic majesty , King
Alfonso XIII. ) to light the cigarettes for his
11
tr a mum. Carmen Sjhn the queen of Ron *
mania , Is alto nn ardent smoker.
Mr * . Fleming of Harvard obwrvatory has
been bay dlrcovcrlng new sMrs. Only four
teen ha\o been found In the lait 300 ye r
and four of these are Mm. Flemlng'B dis
coveries. She dlccovercil ono In llic con
stellation of Pertctis In 1S87 , one In Nornm
In 1S93 and one each In Carlna end Cen *
tarns during tlio present year.
Elizabeth Ney , daughter of Marshal N > y ,
famous In Europe for tcr deMatoork In
sculpture , 19 found to be the mine- woman
who for twenty yeirs has been known as
"The Strange Lady. " Mln Ney now Mrs.
Montgomery Is wld to bo a very bc.iutlful
woman , untiringly devoted to her art and to
have Accomplished wonders In tlio way of
raising thp somewhat hazy esthetic MandnrJ
of Texas. In the Texas building at the
World's fair was a finely wrought m.irblo
statue of flcnor.il Sam Houston , the work ot
Mrs. Montgomery. >
Mrs. Mary Lord Dlmmlck ban had fame
thrust upon her during the past fortnight erse
so by the rumor that she and ox-President
Harrison were about to be married. Slnco
then the fanto has been Increased by the
presence of OencMl Harrison In the city , and
the public announcement of their engage
ment. Fortunately Mrs. Dlmmlck Is ono of
the women who can stand the light th.it
beats about an ox-prcsldent's * finance , for elm
li fairly young , very pretty , very charming ,
and possessed , according to rumor , of the
crowning glory of not wishing "to talk
while other persons wish to think. "
The young czarina may bo Interested In
women's clubs , but eho Is not new woman
enough or Husslan enough to believe In
smoking. She has requested her ladlcln -
TCaltlng not to approach her If there Is an
odor of tobacco on their clothes. All the
Husslan grand dutchessca cmoko , Including
the czarina's sister , the Grand Dutchcss Ser-
glus. On entering a room one day wbcro
several of these ladles were enjoying ciga
rettes her Imperial majesty looked reprov
ingly round and snld : "I consider a ciga
rette In a woman's mouth Is as bad as an
oath In a. man's. "
Kvory blemish will quickly dlsiippcar
from tlio skin mid tlio complexion will
lioeoiuo nlHoluU'ly perfect mid clear s
crystal by I ho nso of
Mine. M , Yale's
World-Famous
Complexion
Remedies
AI < 4 > cars of riRe Mmc. M. Ynlc Is called th
most bcnutlful woman llvlnc. She does not
look more than IS , ami resembles nn imgel more
than n live woman. Her lieauly lias entirely
been cultivated ami lier jouth presened by the
URC of these remedies.
WHIP. YAI.IS'S Alinoiiil IllOHNon Crcniii
Refines coarse poies , Iceeps the skin mootl
imil nt'rfppl. SI.00 upr 1nr.
Miiir. YAMi'S Skill Ftioil
! nn&IOVKS WIUNKLEg nnd all trace of ngc.
llc" ti > res anil preserves youth. ll.W und $3.00
Jar two slzeft.
.lime. VAMS'S Siirclnl I.ollon
v is n sunn cunn ron PIMPLES , ll.oo
per bottle.
MiniYALE'S Sin.0inl Oln iiion
A ure cure for Blackheads. $1.00 per Jar.
Into. A'AMi'S Mole A Wart Hxtrnctor.
Removes Warts and Moles In a few applica
tions. $3.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAl.U'S Hunt Food
De\clops n perfect Neck and Hunt ; It cre
ates plumpness nnd llrmncss. $1.60 nnd 13.00
per Jnr t\\o sizes.
Mine .YAI.IO'S Complexion Illene.Ii
Guaranteed to remoxe Ballcmncvi , moth
patches anil nil skin blemlshe * . It Rives a
natural complexion of marvelous purity nnd
beauty. $2.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAKUTS Ilnlr To ill c
The Hist nnd only dlsco\ery In the history
of chemistry known to turn erny hair bnck
In Its natural color \vltlicut ibr. It Mops
hair falllnK In 24 hours and cri-ntes n lux
uriant Rrowtli. It Is a perfect hair dresilnfr
for Kencrnl ime and a guur.snlced cuie for nil
manner < if pcalp disease pure nnd wonderful.
Jl.OO PIT bottle ; C for J5.00.
MintYAI,13'S Kllxlr of Iloiinty
Cultivate ! ) natural rosy cheeks. A wonderful
skin tonic. $1.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAIK'S Illooil To ill e
Purifies Ihf blocxl nnd cures ll\er and kidney
complaints. $1.00 per bottle ; C for JS.OO. II
Mine. YALE'S Eyebrow iiiul EyelnitU
Grower
Mine. YALE'S Ilnnil Wliltcner
$1.00 per bottle.
Mine. YALE'S CcIcl.rnU-.l L FrecUIn
The only Freckle Cure. $1.00 per bottle.
Mine. YALE'S FniiioiiH Great Scott
The only permanent cure of eupeifluouB hnlr.
Taken but live minutes tu remo\o hnlri ,
roots nnd all ; does not hurt. $5.00.
Mine. YALE'S Km It Ciiru
A distinct remedy nnd never falling cure for
female weakness In any form. The beat
tonic ever compounded for tnnlnir up n weak
svstcm. $1.00 per bottle ; C for J6.00.
Write for Mine. YALE'S "Gulile. to
Ileiuity. "
Bend 10 cents to pay pottage.
All druggists and dealers sell these remedies.
Hew are of counterfeits.
N. 11. I will pay $5,000.00 for the nntst nnd
conviction of nny one counterfeiting my run-
edlea. ( Blsni-d ) Mme. M. YAM- : .
WJLCOA. COMPOUND
. Rafonnd 8IJRH. Alwnya reliable. T k
BOBUbatliuie. FomnlebyallilruKKlitH. tt.uo. Bend
4c. for Womnn'iSafipiiard. WIICOX HI'KCIFIO
CO. . ZMbOUTIt KItJ117Kur.IMlII.AUA.PA.
The Food Drink
\ . Tlicre is great nourishment in a single sip of
more than there is in a dozen loaves of bread. It is invaluable
as a flesh-builder and tonic for nursing mothers , consumptives ,
and all invalids.
invalids.To
To be tiailal all Dniggiit ? and Grocers' ,
PREPARED HV
ANHEUSER-BUSCH BREWING ASS'N , St. Louis , U. S. A.
Send for handsomely illustrated colored booklets
and other reading matter.