Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, January 19, 1896, Editorial Sheet, Page 11, Image 11

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    WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
IN THIS HOM'.S.
Vrevnlllnir FiiililoiiN IlliiMtrnril ( nf
( lie Opera anil Thenter.
NEW YORK , Jan. 16. A vlilt to the
opera In UICBO day * of gorgeous stuffs nnd
showy trlmmlnga reveals so much splcndu
that anything like a plain gown In ono of th
smart boxes ID apt to attract attention tron
the mcro force of contrast.
Such attention Mrs. John Jacob Asto
brought about a few nights ago , when In
dainty costume of pale green velvet , wlthou
n shred of trimming , nho tat In her box a
tbo Metropolitan opera house.
The model of this charming gown was
youthful round bodice , and a plain full skirt
tint hung In godcts at the side.
The neck was cut pquare , and not to
decollete , and the short puff sleeve ? wor
small. At tha bottoms nf these the matcrla
was drawn tightly around the arm , to th
outside , as If tied ; long white suede gloves
wrinkling considerably at the upper portion
meeting them.
With this enchanting simplicity a whit
DINNER GOWN OF VELVET.
spray ilgretto , fastened with a round dla
mend brooch. In the hair , was on this occa
slon Mrs. Aster's only ornament , If one may
except'the superb bouquet of white carna
tlons and roses. ,
On another , however , with the same gown
a long brooch of diamonds and pearls
shaped Into a true lover's knot , was addec
with stunning effect to the front of th
bodice.
CORRECT OPERA TOILETS.
These palo velvet gowns , all In one tone
It Is observed , arc now much affected fo
opera wear by the prettiest women In the
swell tot.
For , of course , one must have more that
a moderate share of good looks to stand
the severity of simple lines , a single tone
and no trimming.
If trimming is uwd , It Is in the form
only of fine laces , and Is confined to the
b9dlce , there hanging from a round 01
square neck In soft berthas , or else shaped
In , splendid rovers and collars.
If untrlmmed , all the Jeweled pins am
brooches In possession are sometimes callei
Into account , and are fastened close togethe :
In a glittering line across the bust. Pear
A HIGH-NECKED DINNER GOWN.
necklaces are also much peon , In three close
rows , with diamond barrcttes , and again In
a long single string ; that IB wound twlco
around the throat , the lower loop , In some
case ! ) , falling almost to the waist. '
Again another necklace recently econ at
the opera house was very charming , and on
Investigation nrnved to be aulto within the
reach of modest folk. <
This was a plnglo string of tiny seed
pearls , that fitted close to the throat , and
from which hung at Intervals of an Inch
a variety of unset stones. The stones were
bored and strung through with a gold thread
to hang pendant ; a great shapeless pearl
forming the center drop. The other gems
were colored and of a dozen kinds. This
necklace- was a Japanese Importation , but
otlieru similar to It can bo found at the big
Japanese Importing houses on Broadway ,
In their cheapest shapes they cost $50 ,
though those more expensive arc , of course ,
correspondingly more to b desired.
FOR TUB COIFFURE.
The hair ornament most In favor at the
opera , and , Indeed , for other evening occa
sions now. Is the white osprey aigrette with
the jewel fastened mentioned , but a more
gracious effect oven lu to have , the fastening
BROCADE AND VELVET DINNER GOWN.
n pair of soft crush roaes , In a gay or deli
cate tone.
Sometimes the roaes will be 'of white silk ,
anil In the adjuitment of the ornaments they
will bo placed low at the left vide of the
coiffure , almot > t behind the ear.
If the wearer U a grand brunette , with
Inky locks , the effect produced U delight
fully Spanish. For blende beads there are
very pretty butterfly and bird wing * In gold
and t41ver net , and young ladles are much
given to simple bandeaux of white , or pinker
or blue catln ribbon with an aigrette In the
Bame tone , or eluo a perky bow at the sldo.
Opera gowns for young l&dlei algo run
U Implicit * , and the moat charming one *
te n torulst'd tt A plntn sitln skirt and a
tulle bodice made In a round baby Iishlon
The color afways Is cream white , or a pale
tint , blue , pink , or yellow , nnd mnall nrtl-
flcnl ! fl6wers trim the corsage of these ef
fectively.
Again a tulle bo'dlee for a young lady ,
tlietheP In white or color , may have only
t belt and neck Ktunltlilngs of while satin
ll < bon , and , though Dimple , the look of this
Is always very ek'c.ant.
Velvet and-satin gowns for those who arc
fond of much trimming have sometimes tulle
and artificial flowers on the skirt as well as
bodice.
A dinner gown trimmed In this way , Illus
trated , appeared at the opera a few nights
ago , and Is of block velvet with a scarf
decoration nf scarlet ttillo shadowed with
hlaok figures. This drapes the neck of the
litdlco and crosses the bust diagonally to the
waist , a great scarlet crysanthcmum catchIng -
IngIt In front and at each shoulder. The
eamo flowers hold down the sah pieces on
the skirl and show at the outside of the
short puff sleeves.
REVIVAL OF OLD TINTS.
In the costume with tlis Infant rcbe front
U shown ono of the newest colors of the sea
son , and that Is no other than the old-time
Nazarlne blue worn a quarter of a century
ago.
ago.Tho front and sieves of this gown are of
velvet In this color , the other material being
silver brocade showing big eccentric figures
In the Kazarlno. The lace on the bodice IB
old-Venetian point , the belt a narrow band
of dull silver act with sapphires.
A high-necked gown of black and white
striped silk Is especially suited to polite
mourning and U dressy enough for any occi-
s'on. The skirt and sleeves of this are of the
rllk , the bodice , cut low at the top and with
sleeve epaulettes , Is of white velvet em
broidered with Jet.
The neck la covered by a | white tulle gimp
over white' silk and Is finished at the throat
with a wide jet band. Over this a full ruflle
of whlto tulle falls becomingly ,
i Odd bodices arc more than ever seen just
how , nnd some of thosw sported at opera and
theater are very beautiful. They arc worn
with silk , satin and velvet skirts , and the
skirts need not necessarily be always black.
For example , a magnificent skirt of dark
rod velvet , recently worn' In a theater box ,
has a little round body of pale pink chiffon
with trimmings of laca and white satln'rlb-
bon.
bon.A '
A skirt In a rich black pea'u do sol was
worn with a darling waist. This was also
the baby shape so much affected nowadays ,
ard that seems to carry with It always the
suggestion of youth , and was of whtto satin
with short puffed sleeves and a simple
trimming of velvet In a brilliant electric
green. A twist at the bottoms of the
slcovca , a narrow belt and one mad bow , like
a sitranco bird , at the left Of the round neck.
was nil the velvet used.
High waists of chiffon have sometimes
the bodice .portion covered with scattered
lace designs or rows of insertion appllqued
on. An enchanting one , worn lately to the
theater , was appllqued all over with big love-
knots. The wearer was a blonde on the
Titian order and she had gone to see Mile.
Yvotte Qullbert to good purpose , as nothing
could have been more becoming to her typo
than this adorable bodice. NINA FITCH.
CIIOOSI.VO A IIUS1IAM ) .
Robert I.ntilN StevoiiHon'n Ailvtcc to
tin- Girl * .
It Isn't often man comes forward to offer
advice unsolicited on how to choose a huE >
band when ono does , women ought to glv
his remarks attention , for the suggestion
ho advances are sure ta be Interesting I
not convincing.
" ' "
"Don't marry any man , says a mascu
line philosopher , "without duly considering
Ms tastes and habits , for they offer a
pretty sure estimate ' of the x Individual'
temper and bent of character. Refuse
a man of letters , though his genius may
promise to produce the book of the cen
tury. Shakespeare himself was not a sat
Isfnctory life's partner and authorship Is a
sedentary , brain-working , dyspeptic profes
sion. Ho who bends over a desk cclnHg
fine sentences will likely scowl when the
baby walls , quarrel with his food , wan
peace when the children romp , suffer from
Insomnia and live chiefly on his nerves.
"Refuse him , " Mr. Stevenson continues
"Just as you would the musical genius , c
even the vocalist or instrumentillst wh
has too much talent. Men of that stripe
always sacrifice everything to their ar :
which leaves , you see , very short commons
for the wife. Your embryo Wagner Is ap
enough to be as full of crotchets as hi
Ecorc3. Ho is always up to the clouds o
plunged Into abysmal depths. The neigh
Uor's practicing daughter keeps htm on
the rack , his hours of composition o
protracted practice sap all the harmony
from tils mind and body , while ambition
rides him like a nightmare.
"Out If you must have a husband In the
arts , try a painter or an architect.An
artist Is the only man who knows how to
ii'ako poverty picturesque and accept It with
philosophy dobblng colors on canvas or
drawing stately lines Is somehow a soothing
occupation to themind. . There always lln
gcrs a halo of romance around the velveteen
coat and tall easel , and artlfts are , by the
rcqulroments of their profession , more pa
tiently hopeful than feverishly ambitious.
"There Is really much excellent matcrla
tor a good husband 1o be found among the
journalists. A capable journalist Is emi
nently a good tempered fellow ; cheerful
energetic , has a keen understanding of human
latnro , comprehends the philosophy of mak-
ng the host of a bad bargain , leads a busy
icalthy , varied life , and as a husband stands
a better clmnco of succeeding than , for In
stance , a physician.
"It's doubtful If the popular doctor Is much
of a comfort to a wife. He has too little
elsitio ; his professional claims are carried
everywhere with him : he Is preoccupied-
icarcely ever a good business man ; but e
awyer Is to be- highly recommended , and
politicians have their strong virtues. "
DENTISTRY FOR CHILDREN.
The Iiiipnrdiiirc of Proper Cnrc at
the IlfKlmiliiir ,
Coming generations are to profit by mod
ern enlightenment on the subject of dentltry.
t Is now an acknowledged fact that the
> eauty and strength of * ho permanent set of
ceth are wholly dependent upon the care
taken of those that precede them. If this
care Is insisted upon future comfort and
icduty are absolutely"insured. . Ono of the
eadlng dentists of the country , "who has
icen practicing thirty-two years , affirms that
lot one patient whoso teeth he has had
harge of all that time will over require artl-
Iclal masticators. In fact they are only a
device for Individuals whose "teeth " were neg-
ected In childhood and youth.
Trouble with human teeth begins at the
early ago of flve months , and In many cases
never ceases until they hive all mmn na
gone , The cutting of baby's teeth Is un-
lotibfcdly the most critical event of its in-
ancy , and anxious parents often call In the
amlly physician to se If lancing the gums
will not facilitate nature and afford relief
o the suffering little ono , But this Is an oper
ation that ehould seldom , be resorted to.
When It Is absolutely necessary , the great
est care should be taken that the tooth Is
ar enough advanced to easily push Its way
hrough the opening made- before the gum
toils over the cut ; otherwise It will be much
order for the tooth to penetrate the clcitrlx
ormed than the gum In Its original condl-
! on. In every caeo the lancet mutt pene-
rate deep enough to strike the tooth , or li
will Inevitably heal over too soon , and only
ncrcaro the difficulty and d'etress of the
ittle one.
one.CARE
CARE OF THE FIRST SET.
Just as teen ai a child has finished teoth-
ng the services of a good dentist should
IB called In , and he should be consulted
hereafter as often a once In six months.
.lolara being frequently Imperfectly formed ,
legln decay at once , and should be filled
efore they are in a condition to render the
work painful. In this way the child Is caved
much suffering and the teeth are retained in
he mouth until It Is time , for them to be
einoved to give place lor the permanent
et , the Importance of which cannot be over-
stlraited. A child should never" alt In the
eutlit'a chair until f Ucu 4 nd from
half hour to an hour Is the longest that a
young person tfcould be allowed to bo oper
ated upon ,
When a child reaches Its sixth year a
change takes place In the back of the mouth ,
The jaws have grown sufficiently to make
loom for another tooth on each sldo , back
of the temporary set. These are the first of
sixth year molars of the permanent set.
Here , again , one sees the Importance of the
dentist's supervision.
Parents often make a great mistake. . In re
gard to these teeth , considering them tem
porary , as they often come before any of the
first get have been taken out. Consequently
they are utterly ncglectcJ , yet being con
structed as 4 } be subject to early and rapid
decay , should be carefully examined as soon
as they ara through the gums and the slight
est Imperfection Immediately attended to.
From the rlxth to the reventh year the
ber me to your mother and all of the rest
Ef the family , but save a large share of my
love for your dear self. " *
Hoping for an early and favorable reply
and wishing you the happiest of ! New Years ,
I remain , youra very lovingly ,
MOLLIE SMITH ,
A JIHOOKI.YN KAU.
DIuncuMlni ; Sunvliiiic mul Cheer
AHIOIIK Fuetory CilrlN ,
Mica Doughty Is a leader in Brooklyn char
ty work , having nothing to do but enjoy
herself In lior own way. In talking about
> oor people some time ago she said to some
rlends ; "Tho only way to reach the people
ve are trying to benefit la to get right down
an.ong them. " Out of this Idea was evolved
he Asacog club , an organization whose name
s made up from the first letters of these
words : "All sorts and conditions of glrli. "
The object of the club from the first was
0 aid girls who were not blessel with all the
comforts and luxuries which the members of
ho Aiacog posaeased. Thereupon the un-
mppy condition of the factory girl was
ooked Into , and the little delegation of Aaa-
og girls who Investigated In the big ma-
iblne factories down town were herded to
find that the teller * in the factories had no
lace wherein to eat their meager luncheons ,
1 the rooms In which they worked were
Ircd during th * cooa hour. There lay the
golden opportunity. ApirtmiStftJ ! were fit
once rcnteJ In a tenement at 14 Vine street.
The dingy rooms were made brlfbl with plo
turer , flags , etc. , a piano was put to and then
the factory girls were Invited to lunch.
Promptly nt 11:30 : next day the Asacog
girls arrived , and Immediately set to work.
Their dainty skirts and sleeves were tucked
up , a < nd white aprons were tied about their
waists. Two of the girls fetptho tables ,
while the other two devote themselves to
the mysterious art of boiling water for tea.
When the factory whistles bloWJat 12 the
steaming tea In put en the tiblo , and pres
ently the girls arrive. It Is worth all their
labor to these society pets to .eeetthe happi
ness they create. The rooms fjrea perfect
babble of merriment. The white , tired faces
of the girls take on a cheerful look , the
hot tea warms their blood Intc something
like animation , and the dainty'surroundings
make them forget the humdrum , hateful II fo
of the factory , and In many cases of wretched
homes. After the repast Is over the tables
are pushed back and the chairs piled up m
the corners , and then the girls enjoy the real
diversion of the noonday hour. OmS of the
Asacog girls sits down at the piano , which
they hire for the rooms , and plays dance
music or accompanlmcnts { until the 12:30 :
IN THE ASTOR OPERA BOX.
shedding of temporary teeth begins. The
second teeth depend almost entirely upon the
time at which the temporary teeth are re
moved from the rqouth. Take care of the
tempcrary teeth , and the permanent teeth
will take care of themselves , or rather na
ture will' ' takei care of them. The temporary
set must bo kept In the mouth long enough
to keep the jaws enlarged and In good condi
tion for the second teeth , but must bo re
moved before they In any way obstruct their
progress.
As sewn as a child cuts Its first teeth the
cleansing process should begin by rubbing
them with a bit of linen , and as soon as It Is
old enough to allow a brush In the mouth It
should bo used at least twice a day. This
practice should bo kept up through lifo. A
very narrow brush should be used so that an
up and down or rctary motion may bo readily
produced. Brushing the teeth across Is pro
ductive of Irritation and absorption of the
gums. " Always after eating a toothpick
quill.preferred should bo used , and silk floss
passed between the teeth.
AS A PROFESSION FOR WOMEN.
The care of children's -teeth Is a fine field
for women , statistics showing that 100 or
mere graduates In the United States are at
present engaged In this occupation. Their
superior gentleness and patience makes them
well adapted for treating children and as
practitioners they are often preferred by men
on account of their delicacy of touch. ,
Women -have been long excluded from
learning dentistry by the narrow-minded' pol
icy of colleges. But more and nwre the way
Is' being opened to them. Like all other oc
cupations , It entails Its penalties , as It re
quires much physical exertion , continuous
standing , grsat mental strain , and many un
pleasant details. But If a woman Is fitted by
temperament , Inclination and physical
strength for the work , It has many com
pensations and la ono vt the most lucrative
professions that she can adopt.
LEAP YEAR. PROPOSALS.
_ _ _ _ _ i
An ArkiinHfiw Girl Kxerclncs tlie
Ounilreiinliil Privilege.
At least ono Arkansas woman has taken
Immediate advantage of leap year to propose
marriage to the man she loves.
Hero "la the letter as actually sent , word
for word , aa written , but with Jhe proper
"
names changed to those much "more com
mon than those In question :
LITTLE ROCK , Ark. , Jan. 1 , 189C. Mr.
John Johnson , Clarksvllle , Ark. : Dear John
This beautiful New Year's morning I have
decided to write and te'.l you something
which has been on my mind for a long , long
time. Wo have been having some bad
weather , rain and snow and. most everything
you could Imagine , but this morning 'Is
bright and beautiful , and , John , I must let
you Into 01 secret. The brighter the sun
shmca the harder I think of you. I am
tired of living this way ; I long to be with
you ; I feel so alone and so unsettled.
This be'ng leap year and the ladles' choice ,
I would like to know , dear John , If you are
not about ready to get married and settle
down ? We have known each other for a
long time , nnd you surely know I love you ,
John , and If you will only give mo a chance
I will make you a good wife.
I have a. good place with Mrs. Thompson ,
with Jennie's and my board , and reasonably
good wages , and there Is plenty of work
here which you oould 'get to do. The govern
ment work over in Argentai will open , up
Monday , and they will employ 200 men , half
white and half colored , at $1.60 and J1.7C a
day. I think you could get a jcb there , and
we could get along so nicely. I would keep
the plac1 } I have until wo could do better.
I am willing to do most any way just for
the sake of being Bottled.
There are plenty of other men good and
true men , too whom I could marry If 1
wculd , but they are not you , John , and al
though they would make mo good husbands
I could never care for them , dear John , as I
have always and will always care for you ,
St'll , I can't wait on you forever , and unless
you decide to do something definite before
long I will have to look further , for I am
mighty tired of single blessedness. It ain't
what It Is cracked up to be , by a long shot.
Jennie Is going to school and learning
fast , and the Is just crazy to see you. She
rends a whole heap of love. Kindly rcmem-
whlstle announces the rapid return to earth
and the duties of the factory.
SMART SLKIGIIIXG.
IIlKh , Trimly Unlit Cutters In Fnitli-
iuiuilile FuVor.
Two hundred and fifty dqllafs'ls the price
of a cutter built on the latest' model , and
when to this Is added the costf'ol a harness ,
set ot furs and a modish Weighing costume
the girl of the period , who'hiakes ' the frosty
air ring with her silver bells , represents n
liberal outlay of hard American dollars.
Sleighing Is , by the why ; 'icomlng back
Into fashlrn again. The fiew1- cutter Is
built small and high as a AVJilt&hapcI cart ,
with a lofty Inclined swjj for ( ho pretty
Jphu who handles her ownT2\ns \ , and out
frm the back lifts a tiny crescent-shaped
seat , to which a fur-rufjjed groom muut
cling and i grip h with'all .the dignity ho can.
Inside this little sleigh Is upholstered
In seal brown corduroy , tufted.wlth small
flat gold buttons , and in placet ot the rods and
Standards , pffloattng. colo/ed lfmb'BJbwoul
and ribbons , the < rounujng Dashboard-
fitted at either end with tw > , graceful silver
rods. These , pprlng up and curl out wltb
the roll of the , dashboard , , and from their
tips swing little Russian lanterns of silver ,
set with bull's eyes Df colored-.glass.
j'AIl this Is Included in thp original two
hundred and fifty , but It takesanother , hund
red and fifty to get the harness. That Is
because this winter's pattern of cutter Is
driven' with twq horses , strung out -as a
tandem , or sleek dapple , grays are In the
traces side , by side. Either way , the har
ness , though simple , ought to show delicate
silver mountings , with stiff arched head stalls
between the horse's ears and three swinging
bells In each arch. / ;
It's on the saddle and housings that the
driver's colors are strewed , and here again
springs another leather orcb , with bells
within.
Now , In spite of all the splendors of Rus
sian sables by way cf a Rene wrap , the buf
falo robe Is the costliest and smartest fur
that one can use. It Is even more expensive
than the sables , for the good reason that
the buffalo Is nearly extinct , and a perfect
hide , clean , curly , large and In the right
shadlngs of color , will fetch over a thousand
dollars. i
Down In New York Miss Corbln uses a
very splendid one , but her father goes In
for buffalo culture In a sestlV way on his
Long Island farm , and M s.i'ftelon Benedict
and Mrs. Burke Roach , botbAplendld whips
and devoted to sleighing , post ess big robes
they wouldn't sell for a roynd , ° t Shelve hundred
dollars. Mrs. Caratalrs qnp fMra. Augusta
Belmont use the new sabiqirwes , as big as
sizeable Turkish rugs , and-ItWgcd all about
with full , feathery brown * fcabie tails.
Over tbo backs ot her-tallr hlghstepplng
brown hackneys Miss Benedict curls one of
the new Russian wh'ps. Its heavy stock of a
curious , tough , black polished wood Is headed
with silver , and from'the nd hangs a very
fair semblance of the cowboy's quirt. It Is
nearly two yards long , of braided scarlet and
blue leather thongi. Wben driving this is
unfurled and dextrously popped In the cold
air over the horses' headi , and then skillfully
gathered up in co'la against the stock.
Directly the weather permits , Miss Gertrude -
trudo Vanderbllt , who U a good deal of a
sportswoman along conaervat'vo line * , drives
with her fattier every afternoon in a graceful ,
low swing Parisian cabriolet sleigh , holding
tbe reins over two big black horses and piling
the vehicle with euperb black bear robes.
She wears herself a long co .t of black Per
sian lamb and a tiny toque ot the tame ,
trimmed with buttons of cut * tel and dashes
ot scarlet velvet , Slowly tbe imported now
vehicles have superseded all but tbe Amer
ican cutter , for Mil * Hewitt drives a VIen.
n 69 cledgo , and dreiies la ublM , her bor e
harnesicd wide "apart , o that , like u Russian
drosky driver , she can urge them to n gallop ,
Her head gear Is a round sable cup , trimmed
with tails and buttons of plate diamonds , and
she wears gloves backed with fur , lined with
silk , and their palms ot the heaviest dog
skin ,
Fnnlilott Xotri * .
Narrow gold belts are fishlonablo.
Ulack satin Is more ot a favorite thnn black
moire.
Straw lamp shades have- taken precedence
over silk ones.
Tinsel tulle hao become too common to bo
considered artistic.
An nm'elhyst set In pearls Is the correct
thing for a hat pin.
The double cape Is dubbed the smartest
garment of the season.
The long black undressed kid glove Is again
In fashionable favor.
The coiffure a la Pompadour has become
much the vogue.
Mourning stationery Is very little employed ,
even by those In the first stages of grief.
The latest necklace Is ot four ft rands ot
pearls , caught In thrco places by flat diamond
clasps.
Chiffon , plain , spangled or flowered. Is n
marked feature of nearly every full-dress
toilet ot the season.
Bangle bracelets are coming b.tck. Diamonds
mends , alternating with emeralds , are the
favorite settings.
Corded silks and ribbed velvets will bo ex
tremely ppuhr fabrics for handsome otreot
and visiting costumes this spring.
-A now adjunct to cloth , gowns Is a silken
petticoat matching the silk of the waist. It
also matches the silk lining ot the coat and
skirt of cloth.
Louis XV. and Louis XVI. decorations nro
being copied In ribbons. Thcio premises to
be a renewal of end of last century fashions ,
as foretold by this.
Cream and whlto satin toilets are greatly
enriched this winter by accessories of lustrous
rllk velvet and lovely gowns of ros > colored
satin duchcsse , wcrn by box occupants at the
opera , were rendered still more elegant and
brilliant by trimmings of ruby or resxnla vel
vet , overlaid' with Jewel trimmings en ap
plique.
Some of the silk bodices "arc- cut into tabs ,
"crenelated" nt the lower edge ; others are
made with a short1 sharp point front and
back , and again we see bodices with short
lace basques. This fashion Imparts a cer
tain elegance to the corsage , adds nothing
to the size , and lack of natural breadth can
bo compensated by setting the lace on more
liberally.
Another survival of past seasons is the
short Jacket. It Is very popular just now In
Paris , and will come up for favor among
flossy spring modes. Under all of Its'shapes
"ind names Eton , Zouave , Russian Patrol ,
Spanish Mess , French Guan } , etc. It will
t'tlll hold Its own next season. This tiny
garment Is eminently dressy and effective
and loses none , of Its chic under cold-weather
guise.
Skeleton veots of Scotch plaid taffeta or
surah are worn with the open-fronted coats
that have the popular bobbed-off skirts , nnd
aiso with the shorter Russian and Eton
jackets. These gay waistcoats have a semi
loose blouse front of silk , with a deep turn
down collar and very broad ends that tie
In a very stunning bow under the chin. The
bock of the vest Is merely sllcsia or some
times of thinnest chamois.
At a recenl evening representation at the
Metropolitan opera house , New York , the oc
ct'pant of a prominent box wore an oxqulslt
gown of sllvcr-gray satin duchesse , the bodice
draped with golden-gr.een chiffon' delicately
spangled with silver , the full Queen Anne
slefves pt tose-colqred velvet with foldec
girdle of'tho same , and , as a finishing touch
a large bunch of violets * on the left sldo o
the square opening of the Pompadour-cu
corsage. , , v
Kilted sklrtsAvtll ap'pear this spring , some
plain , others trlmmoJ with ribbon put on
In rows liear the hem before the skirt Is
pleated , or sewed on from belt to skirt-edge
after the kilting Is done , the ribbon appear
Ing on 'every third or fourth kilt. Some
of the skirts"will - bo pleated the whoic
lergth ; others wllj be adjusted to a. Jersey-
shaped , tightly fitted bodice , trimmed on" the
Front and plain In tbe back , and. there fas
tened if the wearer Is young andf slender.
There are fewer dancing-toilets and bal
dresses this season made wholly of rich
heavy .catlns and brocades than have been It
vogue J for years. These substantial am
stately gowns are replaced by toilets of
spangled tulle , mousselalne de sole , chiffon
Irdla mull , otc. These butterfly toilets are
far more expensive than those ot dearer
material- ' for the reason that while it costs
quite as much to have the one gown made
as the other , the silk or satin one will out
last the 'flimsy sort by years.
Many of it lie light-colored evening silks
are most lovely , apd also most reasonable
and tempting In pricef and made up over
silky "rustle percallne , " of a shade matching
the dross , a most attractive gown can be
produced at comparatively little cost. A lit
tle of the rich , effective iridescent passcmcn-
tetlo and a few yards ot handsome satin
ribbon are all that Is required In the way
of garniture , or , If preferred , some "dainty
lace for the corsage alone , for the skirt of
this gown looks best absolutely untrlmmed.
Feminine Notca.
Collecting old china js Miss Braddon's
hobby.
Bernhardt has treated herself to a $7,500
gown and la going to give Americans a chance
to pay for It.
Violet Fane , the novelist , Is the wife of
Sir Philip Currle , the English ambassador In
Constantinople.
Lady Randolph Churchill , Lady Dufferln ,
the duchess of York and the czarina of
Russia are all exports on steel blades.
Ellea Spencer Mussey is one of tbo clev
erest barristers in Washington , D. C. She
Is tbe widow of the late General Muw y.
Lady Randoljph Churchill has settled down
In London , again , having taken a house In
Great Cumberland place , close to her old
home.
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe , Miss Sarah Orne
Jewett and other celebrities are members
of an association for the atulstanco of In
dependent women travelers.
Mr * . . Charles 8. Brown ot New York City
Is the champion lady golfer In this country ,
Her drives are straight and rather high ,
and 'her putting in accurate ,
Mme , Daudet baa a beautiful volco and
thinks that tha fact nan caused tha rumor
that she was an actress before her marriage ,
She hau never sung outside of her own salon ,
The Baroness yon Ebner-Eichenbacb Is
not only a celebrated novelist , but likewise a
practical watchmaker. Her remarkable col
lection of watchua has had many wonderful
acceailone ,
Miss Caroline V. Bernard , who e mother ,
the lite Caroline Rlchlngs Bernard , was a
famotia ulngcr tncnty years nr.ns \ the con *
tralto ot the choir of the Flttl Presbyterian
church of PhlHdelphla.
Edith Sctstons Tupper has written a story
nbaut elephant training which lia ? at
tracted wldo notice. She has successfully
proven \\hat a woman can da with an "ele
phant on her handn. "
Miss Gertrude Vandcrbtlt has perfected the
art ot skating until she Is able to perform
most of the fancy figures , Including the
double Philadelphia grapevine , which la
about the moit difficult gyration on Ice.
Miss Klngsley , an r'ngllsh woman , has
just returned from her second exploring tour
In Africa. Her trip was of n private n.iturv ,
for the purpose of collecting plscatotlal
specimens and studying the fetich customs ot
the natives.
The women's recent exhibition In Copen
hagen has left a largo surplus , which will
bo used toward the building of n Women's
palace In Copenhagen. Thh building will be
used for women's clubs tuid for the ad
vancement of fcmalo Industries ,
A number of fashionable entertainments
for the Red Cross Armenian relief tund arc
to be held In Chicago. Dr. Sarah Hackctt
Stevenson Is nt the head of a committee ot
200 promlrient women of the city who have
formulated the plan.
Mrs. Pnrnell Is on the ocean , Journeying
homeward. She was pleasantly Impressed
with America , nmIs recovering from the
murderous attack of which she was the vic
tim eome time ago. She was presented with
n purse ot $600 before her departure.
According to a decree of Judge Sullivan of
Whitman county , Dora Hclslng and John
Hclslng , who were recently divorced by the
Judge , must marry again within six months.
The word "not" was left out of the decree
between "shall" and "marry. "
The queen of Italy during her recent so
journ at Monzn , has been Industriously
practicing as a cyclist , being Instructed bv
n Milanese professor. She now covers long
distances In safety , and Is Influencing innnv
Italian women to dovotc themselves to ath
letic pastimes.
Miss Frances Wlllard has been recently
censured by bigots for inviting a priest to
give the benediction at the close' ot a meetIng -
Ing of the temp'sranco union. Mlsa Wlllard
states that she has always asked and will
continue to ask the ministers ot any denomi
nation who may bo In attendance nt her
meetfhgs to give the parting blessing.
Mrs. Zee de Longuevllle Morgan has just
been establishing a home for lost nnd starv
ing cats In London. The Institution will bn
a temporary homo for both cats and dogs
while their owners nro away. At a recent
concert given for the benefit of the Cats'
home , the duchess of Bedford and the
marchioness of Drogheda were patronesses.
The best politician In the Reed family Is
Kitty , the 19-year-old daughter of the
speaker. She is more Interested In public
affairs than In society , and her judgment
about political affairs Is so good that her
father la very glad to make use ot It. She
writes many cf hlo letters and would prob
ably make as good a private secretary as
cither Dan Lament or Llgc Halford or Mr.
Thtirber.
It has been ascertained that Miss Helen
Brlce , daughter of Senator Calvin Brlce , was
the model for the charming figure In the
stained glass window recently completed by
Ml 3 Tllllnghast and presented to the Fcmalo
seminary at OxtJrd , O. , by the alumni class ,
of which Mrs. Calvin Brlco was a member.
Miss Brlco Is represented holding the torch
of knowledge , which she has apparently
lighted from the lamp of learning .which
burns by her side.
Mrs. Ellen Clementine Howarth ot Trenton -
ton , N. J. , Is another of the poets , particu
larly the women poets , whoso fame rests
chiefly upon one poem. Mrs. Howarth's
verses , beginning " 'TIs but a little faded
flower , " struck a strongly vibrating chord ,
and It Is as their author that she Is quickest
Identified , though two volumes of collected
poems , first printed In newspaper corners ,
are from her pen. The second volume , pub
lished In 1868 , was edited by R. W. Gilder.
In swell society the most Important coming-
out announced Is that tf young Elliott Shepard -
ard , grandson of William H. Vandervllt.
favorite nephew of Willie K. Vflndorbllt , and
a pet of Uncle Chauncey M. Depow. Elliott's
mother has finished the finest country house ,
people say , anywhere ion the , Hudson river.
It haa cost her more than $2,000,000 and con
tains about 200 rooms. It Is situated In the
midst cf a magnificent estate nt Scarborough ,
Is built In the colonial style , and enriched by
countless treasures gathered In the old world
by Mrs. Shepard. Twelve rooms belong to
Elliott. He has everything there that a
spoiled prince of a realm could cry for. His
coming-out will rival the Sloane-Burden wed
ding.
COXNUI1IAMTIES.
Jim Corbett's first wife must have a soft
spot In her heart for him after all. She Is
planning to relieve him of the obligation to
pay her $100 a. week alimony by annexing
a millionaire on her own account.
The marriage season1 In London this year
promises to bo a pretty brlbk one. Nearly
150 society weddings are announced to taki-
Ijlaca within the next few months , and tbe
"booking" at most of the. fashionable
churchea Is almost unprecedented.
Now the gossips say that Wllllo K. Van-
dcrbilt will marry again. For -some time
his name has been linked with that of Mlse
Amy Bend , a beautiful young woman who
made her debut about slx ( years ago ; and
has been quite a belle ever ulree.
Richmond , Ind. , possesses one. ot the most
remarkable old couples In the state , or the
country for that matter. They reside on a
farm near the city and are John and Martha
Cr.tes. The former Is 95 and the latter 98
years of ago and they have been married
almost seventy-seven years.
A remarkable wedding took place at Mc-
Guffy , O. , last week , The persons concerned
were Christian Schultz , aged 82 , and Miss
Mnrtha Cownn , aged SO , They were school
cU'.dron together In Germany , she emigrat
ing to this country with her parents when
) ut 18 years old. They knew nothing of the
whereabouts of each other until last Novem-
ier , when Schultz came to this country and
through friends learned that Miss Cowan was
somewhere In Ohio.
A Russian girl had her way at Kharkhow
ecently. Her relatives forced her to consent
to marry a man she disliked. When the wed
ding party appeared In church , however ,
and the priest asked her If the would take
the man she said "No. " She would not
Meld to remonstrance , so the party returned
lomo and argued with her , First her pa-
er.ts beat her , then the brldgegroom's
'rlends beat her. She was taken back to the
church weeping and the service was begun
again. But she eald "No , " and this time the
priest saved her from her relatives.
i A Zurich ( Switzerland ) dally contains the
fallowing' udvortltciwonK. : I "A young and
pretty lady , graduate of the Academy , able
to support a husband'desires to make the
acquaintance of a man ( total abstainer ) not
under 20 years ot age , He must love chil
dren , have a thorougli knowledge of IIOUEC-
tcgplns : and bo of modest , gentle disposi
tion ; some mean's desirable , Sericxus offers ,
accompanied by photograph , and testimonials
ay to character , to bo tent to M. S. , Hottln-
gen. " And , what Is sadder still , from a mas
culine standpoint , the advertisement re
ceived stacku of answers.
A couple at Rome , Ga. , were mnrrleJ on
.lie highway last week while seated In a
JURBX , the officiating clergyman also being
n his buggy. The pair went to the mlnleter'u
IOUSB , but found that ho had gene out to
dine and was rot expected back until very
ate , Being Indisposed to postpone the wed
ding until next day , they started out in a
luggy for tha house where the minister wa
dining , Intending to have him perform the
ceremony there. But they met him on the
highway , returning. They halted him and
explained their errand , the two buggies were
Irlvcn alongside each other and the cere
mony was performed there ,
itonicitr IIUHNS , >
Prank Putnam In the Tlmea-IferalJ , <
Away with your Jioccacclos , your Drydens
and your I'ocs.
Y ur Marlowes and your Tennysons away
With all of those ;
They ornament prosperity , but when the
current turns.
We'd swap the aggregation for an hour of
Bobby Burnt ) .
Your scribbling aristocracy let serve the
bookish clan ,
The fcllowu who can follow out an epicu
rean plan :
Ve lave him best who sang" the worth of
poverty's concerns ,
The peer ot nature's * poets and her prince * ,
Bobby Burna.
Kvery blemish will quickly disappear
from the skin mul the complexion will
become absolutely perfect mul clear an
crystal by the use of
Mine. M. Yale's
World-Famous '
Complexion
Remedies
At kjcxirs of ngt Mmo. M , Ynlo Is cnllcd lh
matl licnullfnlnninn llUnir. Hhp iloes not
look more thnn 18 , nnd roiuulilei nn iingol mor
thnn n live woman. Her tienuty 1ms enllroly
been rultl\nlc < l mul hrr joulli prrpr\eil by the
use of thco remedies.
Mint . YAl.K'H Alinoiiil llliiNNiiii Creinu
Itellncs coarse point , keeps ( ho skin Bmootli
nnil perfect. M.OO | ior Jnr.
Mints YAl.K'S Skin Kiioil
nraiovHs WHINKI.KS mui nil tmcc or RRO.
Itcslomi nnd pK'senra > omh. Jl.&U mid 13.00
Jnr two H\TSS. \
Mine. YAI.H'S Special l.ullon
IB n sum : cum : von iMMrus. 11.00
per bottle.
Mine. YAl.K'H Siiroliil Oliitmriit
A sure cure for nincklieiuln. $1,00 per Jnr.
Mini : YAl.K'S Mole & Wnrt Livtrnedir.
llemtnen Wnrts nnd Moles In n tcvt aitIlca- | i .
linns. (3.00 per bottle.
.Mine. YAI.Ii'S Hunt Knoll
Develops ii perfect JCpck nnd Unit ; It cro-
ntca plumpness nnd llrinncmi. Jl.M ) nnd S3.30
per Jnr two slzec.
Mine .A'.M.IC'S Complexion Illeucli
Qunrantrcd to remove lutHownoim , molh
pntclics nnd nil ektti Mrmlsliea. It Klves n ,
nnturnl complexion of marvelous puilty nnd
bcnuty. IS.OO pep bottle.
Mine. YAiaS'H llntr Tonic
The first 'and only dfacmcry In the history
of rhrmlittiy known to turn crny Imlr bnclt
to Its nnturnl color without live. It utops
hair fnllliiK In ! 4 lioum nnd creates u lux-
tirlnnt Kvmvth. It IB n perfect Imlr drr slnir
for Keneral use nud n RUurantccil Hire for nil
mnnncr of acnlp dlsenne pure nnd wonderful ,
11.00 per bottle ; 6 for 15 00.
Mine. YAl.K'S Elixir of 1leiuit >
Cultivates nntuml rosy cheeks. A wonderful
Bkln tonic. Jl.O * per Imltle.
Mine. YAl.K'S lllootl To ill e
Purifies the blood nnd cjirei liver nnd kidney
comp'.nints. Jl.OO per bottle ; C for Jo.00.
Mmo. YAljK'S 12cl > row mill KyuliiHh.
Grotver
fl.OO per Jar.
Mine. YAl.K'S Ha ml IVMtciicr
11.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAI/B'S CcIclinUvtl In FrccUIn
The only Freckle Cure , 11.00 per bottle.
Mine. YAl.K'S FiiniotiH Great Scott
The only permnnent cure of superfluous hnlr.
Tnkes but five minutes tu remove lialra ,
roots nnd nil ; does not hurt. to.00.
Mine. YAl.K'S Km It Ciirn
A distinct remedy nnd never fnlllnc cure for
female weakness In nny form , The best
tonlo ever compounded for tonlmr up a weak
sjstcm. $1.00 per bottle ; 0 for J5 00.
Write for Mine. YAl.K'S "Guide to
llciiiity. "
Send 10 cents to pay poslnse.
All druggists nnd denlers sell these remedies.
Ucvvnreor _ counterfeits.
N. n. I will pay $5,00000 for the ancst nnd
conviction of any one counterfeiting my rcm-
, cdlcs. , ( Signed ) llme.'M. YAI.E.
Pure Food : M r Buckwheat ;
- . WRIGHT'S MILLS , Borlln.AVIs.
NEW PUIILICATIONS.
As a key "Comfort" some
what resembles a "jimmy , "
from the fact that it opens
doors of all sorts and sizes.
It , however , works by the
power of the " press " and not
| of the "pry. " Most of us
j relish being ; astonished. Do
you ? If so , ask your news-
J dealer for a copy of "Com-
| j fort. " Twill only cost you 5
gjj cents , and will clearly explain
m how its present circulation of
g more than one' million and
m a quarter copies each month
built up.
twas up.See key.hole next lime.
BR EAKFA87B8 UPPER
E PP S'S
GRATEFUL-COMFORTING
COCOA
BOILING WATER OR MILK.
CUKES QUICKER
TrUN ANY OTHER REMEDY.
Turrant'g Extract , ot Cu
boln and Cnpalba 1 * a laft ,
certain nml quick cure ( or
eonurilua nml jneet and li
an old-tili-a remedy for all
ill cj ci nf the urinary or-
gnnx , Combining In a hlihl ?
conctntiufd form the nu-
dldnnl Uilui'i of cubebt
and cmmllm , III portable
* bai > , frcidom fiorn tail *
and xpeeJx uctlun ( curingIn
le lime than any olhtr
preparation ) make It TH9
MOST VAI.lA ! ! > U3 KNOWN
IlKMlinr. To prevent fraud ,
lee tliat cu-ry package | m a red ( trip nfrou the
face of lubfl , wllli tlie ilgnuturo of Tarrtnt *
o > . , N. y. , upon it. rnicn , .oo. sola by It
drufgliti.
TRADE MARK
_ W1J.COA : CODII'OUND
ANSY * PILLS
KnJni , iBafe"ndslJRB' Alwaya reliable. T k
5 ? t , , . " " rorMlnby.MlilriiBifUlfcM.oa Bend
' ' i
OPIUM ° " MORPHINE HABIT
VI WWI
DR. 8. m. COL.UINS *
PAINLESS OPIUM ANTIDOTE 4
QRIQINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY.
Olicoveredlntsea. "THERIAKI"Book Fre * .
OfflcB3U,78MonrotSlrtel ,
.o. OKAWH m. UHIuftUU | III .
WRIGHT S Buckwheat *
Wrl ht' Mills , Berlin. Wl .
j . . . , . . . , . Ai. :