Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, January 12, 1896, Editorial Sheet, Page 11, Image 11

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    WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
Miiwi.vrnu IMS
( lint Continue Illffli In J'eiiil
nine I 'in or.
Nn\V YOIUC Jan. 0. A velvet gawn for
high ( iccaBloiiB , nml a chinchilla fur collar
to U ep It warm at the shoulders , re two
of tliB latest elegancies of faihlon. A cnr-
rlago mar also be added to the combination ,
for the velvet toilet Is too fine to go a pled ,
and It being heavy to carry and a perish
able quantity to boot , It may bo accepted
n A fashion that hag email chance of becoming -
coming too common.
Some of the velvet costumes now being
paraded at theater and reception , and other
Places tit "ccc.islon , " show such a marked
decrease In the Mzc of clccves tliat It looks
really as If the day of balloonn were at latt
on the decline.
In the moit approved model ; , tlio vclvel
skirts mcasuro five and one-half yards round ,
nnd these have circular front * that (11 ( closely
over the hips and hang In godets below. Gen
erally three fall In front In a gre.1t box
pleat , nnd With this Me shape thcro are
commonly only two ornnn gores at the back.
lllack velvet Is more seen than colored.
nnd tlio skirts are usually plain nnd lined
with r.llk In some daln.y hue or else pure
white.
HARMONIOUS DECOIIATIONS.
The outoldo decoration Is confined entirely
to tlio bodice , and If thin Is In a jacket shape ,
thcro are sometimes chinchilla rcvcrs thai
turn back from n whit ? satin front , embroid
ered vUtli tlnwl threads and paste gems.
Again this front may bo veiled with plain
clilfToii or chlfTon appllqucd with designs In a
rich lace , this last arrangement being one ol
the most elegant methods of the season tor the
trimming of dressy bodice * . A charming fin
ish at the wali't , for cither , Is a narrow belt
of tinsel braid that fastens In front with a
Jewel buckle.
Jet Is much In favor with both black and
colored velvet , and thcro are some very beau
tiful yokes and long cuff pieces for the bottoms
toms of tfco sleeves peen In It. Splendid jet
buttons , as larg ? as n 50-cent piece , and
others of filagree gold and Hhlncrtoncs and
colored gomu are nlw used ; the two last ,
h'bwever , only In discreet Humbert * , three at
the utmost each sldo cf the Jacket , or a
pair llko jeweled brooches at the throat.
The velvet gown Illustrated In a becoming
and manageable- model to follow. It Is of
black with a lining throughout of white silk ,
CHINCHILLA CAPE.
'and a yoke , glrdlo and cuffs of Jet. The
; jet yoke finishes at the throat In n tall band
Sthat curves slightly outward at the top to
fglvo case to the head , and the round bodice
fastens at the left side. It hangs loosely
[ over the yoke In a somewhat blouse effect , a
; : slight gathering , back and front , jet holding
* lt trimly Into the waist.
The skirt Is the circular model described ,
but the sleeve ? , though cut all In one glgot-
farhlon , are entirely new In their effect. The
closely fitted bottoms are heavily Jetted In
the elaborate pattern of the yoke , and a novel
look Is given tlio puff by dragging up all the
fullness at the Inside scam almost to the
arm-hole. This gives the- sleeves the effect of
the pufT being separate from the cuff portion ,
nd lends a graceful sllmnejs to the figure.
A RICH WRAP.
The chinchilla collar pictures a modish wrap
for tnich costume , further warmth being
supplied on bitterest weather by an under-
walst of perforated chamois.
The lining of this is gray silk , and ths
cnpo portion Is made so full that It folds over
at the shoulders In pleats. The long stole
ends , which In this caw are tied with big
rosotteii of black chiffon , are a novel and be
coming finish to the front. . .
Apropos of black chiffon , It Is said at the
shops that there Is now moro demand for It
than over. No matter what the color or
texture of the gown , the fashionable bodlco
la almott sure to have a touch of this silky
stuff somewhere , and gains thereby la dis
tinction.
Three stunning bodices for afternoon recep
tions wear follow :
All shown have skirts of the same ma-
torlal , but they will orvo as excellent designs
for bodices In odd stuffs , to bo worn with a
black silk , satin or velvet skirt.
A handsome and useful corsage , for either
a young matron or ntalil , la of thin , black
novelty cropon , with a rich trimming of white
IleiialBsa.noa laco. The bodlco portion Is c-f a
heavy satin , In a curious glittering green
veiled in made cninon , KIU plaited. Through
a V-Blmped opening at tbo top of the crepon
sleeves , this brilliant lining Is allowed to show
uncovered , and tlio narrow , folded licit Is
aHo made ot It. Tlio collar Is a straight band
that does not meet In front. It Is covered
with the lace nnd flnl&hed Inside \\ltli a nar
row rulllu of wlilto chllfon.
ALL. OP LACK AND lUHDONS.
The other lace Is appllqucd on green satin
B *
BLACK VELVET TOILET.
flbbon , each side of a atrip of green sequin
embroidery.
Transpose ( or the crepon ulceves of this
corsage others ot bluck velvet , and such a
combination would be Eultable with any band-
eomo black skirt.
A lesa practical , but even moro ravishing
bodice , Is ot thlu white \\ool crepon over
maize silk , and with an adjustable collar of
"tall'1 lace Jn a do-ep yellow , between strips
ot white rilk uiUBllii.
This collar fastens at the back , and hai
three long scarf ends , like those each side
ot the front plait , that hang becomingly half
way to the waist.
The plait I * fastened to the. blt , which U
of ii.t rill.r. fclded , the Mock cullar being
i\.f \ ssnic.
The round brooch , won In this Instance ,
ntlOWN AND QUEEN DOD1CE.
Is of yellow diamonds and pearls , and It may
be entertaining to know that thl ? Jewel-com
bination Is said to be the favorite one of that
strange elngcr , Yvcltc Qullbert.
Hut to return to the white crepon body , the
collar alone of which will prove n useful In
vestment. It would be a charming decoration
for a plain velvet or silk bodlc ? , nnd being
detached could be called Into tvrvlce for
several.
A costume of tobacco-brown velvet han a
bodice admirably suited to a young , slender
flguie.
The other material used with this Is a
heavy , soft , green silk , In a loose nctllkc
weave , and ths chemisette and turnback cuffs
are of white silk embroidered with tinsel
thread.
Ilodlccs In delicate textiles for evening
wear have often , along with collars or rare
lac : , trimmings of table fur.
A bunch of tails will be fastened somewhere
"with a Jeweled button , and others are split
down In three pieces together to form a
tiny edge for rovers and basque ? *
NINA PITCH.
A GHXnilOUS MII.MO.VAimiSH.
HiMicvoIunt Work or Minn Helen Gould
at "Woody CrcHt. "
Caring for young children Is the especial
channel In which Miss Helen Gould's charity
seems to run.
Her method of doing good Is an emi
nently personal one. She Is not content
merely to sign checks for a deserving pur
pose , but , not unlike the parish visiting
system of great ladles In England , she per
sonally visits the Institutions which she
pecunlarly assists.
Several times during the winter , accom
panied by a friend , Miss Gould devotes a
day to the creches or day nurseries ; she
visits each one In town , has a little chat
with the matron , Inquires Into the special
needs of the Institution , takes a peep Into
the nursery , where the babies spend the
day , looks In upon the older children who
are having lessons In the school room and
then takes her departure. Her manner Is
most charming and unaffected , her dress
very quiet , and that she Is ono of the rich
est young women In America no ono would
ever suspect.
In a day or two , a check for good sums
are more likely than not to find their way
from Miss Gould's hand to the different
creches she has visited , In addition to the
amount she sends yearly for the support of
a crib or bed. She pays for two beds , ot
thn rinhlps1 shelter , with this nrovlso. that
the beds shall be at the service of "two of
the uninteresting children. "
Homes for old women also appeal to Miss.
Gould's sympathies , and thsro is an asylum
on Lexington avenue for bedridden old wo
men , where she Isa , frequent visitor and
much beloved.
After Miss Gould decided to live at her
country place , Lyndhurst , Irvlngton-on-Hud-
son , the year 'round , she established a homo
for orphaned children and called It Woody
Crest.
The place Is about a mile from Lyndhurst ,
and nearly every day , MIs& Gould or a member
of her family drives over to Woody Crest to
Inquire after the wolfara of the young family ,
which usually numbers about a score of chil
dren , all under 12 years of age.
The old stone house stands far up In the
I
' ' HELEN GOULD.
hills , and Is surrounded by trees. Thcro Is a
great wlilto gate at the entrance , bearing In
largo , white letters the name , "Woody Crest , "
In an arch over the top. Passing through this
gate Ilia road goes zig-zag fashion up , up to
the verp top of a bluff ; from the roadway , a
flight of white steps leads to the wide
veranda that extends entirely across the
front of the masyive stone house.
The children , "Helen's babies , " as some one
has not Inaptly called them , are a happy lot.
They have plenty of fun nnd frolic , a Ju
dicious amount of study every day and the
older ones of the girls learn to new and do
housework , \\hllo the boys learn carpentry
and various useful things.
The boys who work in the carpenter shop
have turned out some really creditable pieces
of work a tofa ami a bookcase among the
number , to say nothing df the stools , stands
and clialrf. The boys fixed up what was once
a woodshed fen a chop , and a real carpenter
was provided to Instruct them.
Every fine day a wagonette , drawn by
llg bay horses draws up before the door
and a bevy of children are taken out for
a long drive. They go In relays and when
.ho snow comes they are promised sleigh
rides and coasting.
During the Christmas holidays there wtro
lively times at Woody Crest , with stockIngs -
Ings well filled with gifts , feasts of good
things , games and a general reign of hi
larity. There were numbers of poor little
ones Invited to attend from New York. JIIss
3ould personally saw that the wants of all
the children were supplied , and when they
returned to ( heir homes In the city , they
carried Christmas gifts for their older broth
ers and sisters and grateful memories , let
us hope , of the fairy godmother , whose great
est happiness In life consists In ministering
to others.
MotliLTM ofnleil Men.
Gounod's mother was fond , of painting and
music.
St. Augustine , In his books , speaks of the
debt of cratltudo ho oued to his mother ,
Haydn dictated ono of his most Important
nslrumental compositions to. hit * mother.
It Is said that the inothej of Charles Dar
win had a decided taste for nil branches of
natural history.
Wtber , the musical composer , had a musical
nothtr , who found pleasure In the gema of
classical mutlc. .
Thackeray adored the memoty of his
nether , and several times In his writing * be
nentlons her with admiration. '
The mother of Alexander the Great \vas
ealtl to hava been a woman of great oatuitU
abilities , str.cg wlll-d and singularly Imput-
tlvi ,
Lltzt wa ? flrit attached to music by hearing
his mother sing. He mid that this turn to
his life occurred when he was not more than
2 years old.
Tamerlane's mother began the training of
her i < pn In military matUrs before he could
speak. The first toy eho gave him wag a
tiny sword. Ho Is said to have attributed
his love cf war to this , his first plaything.
Charlemagne made a. law punishing with
death a man who would Insult or boat his
mother , and with Imprisonment and stripes
the ran who should neglect to provide- for
her who brought him Into the world ,
Sidney always attributed his love of poetry
and his skill In verso tct the training of his
mother. It wan her practice to tcadi to him
passages from the best po-ts.
Whatever Dumas pore may have thought
of his own mother , he-had a high opinion of
motherhood , "Among all animals , from man
to the dog , the heart of a mother Is always
a oubllmo thing. "
OUUMAX WISDOM.
_ _ _ _
A TrnlnliiK School for Future WIvcM
nml Mothers ,
Germany Is foremost In her scientific re-
ssarch relative to the science of nutrition.
Her experiments have been carried on for
many yars , as also , Investigation of the
conditions of living , with reference especially
to Income and expenditure of the poor classes.
In many localities where weaving Is the main
Industry , Investigations have uncovered start
ling feminine Ignorance of the necessities of
nature , both physically and mentally. The
combined earnings cf the family do not
often exceed 300 marks a year , about $75.
As a class they are extremely weak , very
few of them being able to do farm work.
They cat meat rarely nnd beer Is considered
a luxury. Their main diet Is bread , with
perhaps , a third of It potatoes. Their
physical condition shows a notable lack of
muscular energy , the women generally being
the stronger of the two sexes.
It Is to uplift these people nnd others like
them that Germany haa Introduced her trainIng -
Ing schools for young girls. In the city of
Essen , there Is ono which will serve as an
Illustration of what the Germans are' doing
to Improve the condition of this helpless. Ig
norant class. Messrs. Krupp of Essen , the
leading merchants of the place , employ some
18,000 men and wamen in their steel works.
The city , In fact , depends mainly upon this
enormous Industry. True philanthropists
that they are , Messrs. Krupp have recognized
Importance of a better home life , a wiser
food supply and a more Intelligent expendi
ture of small Incomes. They have estab
lished the "Krupp's Training school , " a
model Institution of Its kind.
The g-.rls' training school has for Its object
general education and Instruction In those
things pertaining to the care of the household
and the duties of the wife and mother. The
course In thet'3 latter branches lasts for three
months , and Includes purchasing of food ,
cooking , preserving and care ot provisions ,
management of the kitchen garden , washing ,
ironing , mangling , knitting , darning , and all
kinds of housework. In food economy pupils
are taught what quantity of materials arc
required for a given number of persons and
how much should be prepared for each meal.
Each pupil Is expected to provide for ten
others for a number of days. Sha must weigh
out the nccesaary food stuffs and prepare and
cook them. She must keep an exact account
of what Is used for each meal and the cost
and quantities of the- several materials cm-
ployed. At the end of the course each girl
preserves her own account book , which makes
a valuable guide for referencs later In life.
In thit It t-lls her how a nutritious and at
the tame time varied diet may bs furnUhed
at a comparatively small expenditure. The
girls average about 15 years of ago when in
the school , leaving It at about 19 , well pre
pared to enter upon the ultimate duties of
womanhood.
Such training Is so rare that one cannot but
admire the liberal policy and enlightened hu
manity of Messrs. Krupp. Their school has
been the object of profitable Investigations by
German scientists , who are by their Inde
fatigable zeal nnd tireless research , promising
to effect revolution In the field of die-titles
and nutrition.
American Investigation Is still In Its In
fancy , but a growing recognition of Its Im
portance promises better things In the future.
CIIAKM.3 OF VENEZUELAN AVOME.V.
Tlu-lr Complexion mill FVntnrcH Sulil
. to llu Eiiti-iuicIiifT.
Originally Venezuela was a portion of
the old republic of New Granada , saya the
New York Press. It took Its name > Vene
zuela , "Ltttle Venice , " from the fact that
the land around the lower course of the
Orinoco and other rivers Is crossed and Inter
crossed with bayous , branches , lakes and
ponds , and at many places suggests Venice
aa It would bo without any houses. The
women are very attractive. They are al
most of pure Spanish blood , although this
In the course of three centuries has been
dashed with French , Carlb , Indian , negro ,
Aztec and other bloods. They mature early ,
some at 8 and 0 years of ago. Motherhood
at 11 Is not uncommon and grandmuthurhood
at 21 has happened In enough cases to de
prive the fact of any novelty. The women
nro smaller than those of our own raci , and
from the age of 10 to IS are handsomer.
They pay much attention to their hair , which
U long , thick , very dark , and very silky.
Their eyes are largo and brown , their fea
tures , mouth and teeth are admirable , and
their complexion a warm velvet that Is
simply entrancing. On account of their
habits , their forms are almost perfection.
The heat ot the climate keeps them within
doors nearly all the time and renders neces
sary thin , light and flowing robes. Only
when they go out walking or receive com
pany or make calls do they put on the tllff
articles of wearing apparel demanded by
fashion the world over.
Attire of this sort Is worn so little that the
natural lines of the figure are comparatively
or absolutely uninjured. The result of this
condition of affairs Is a dignity of carriage , a
grace of movement and a beauty of physical
contour which make their owners long remembered - ;
membered by the traveler who vlflts their
land. Education Is quite general , and the
women , like the men , Indulge In considerable
reading and study. It cannot be said that
they run much to science or to culture , but
confine their literary work to novels , ro-
inancet and poetry. There are quite a num
ber of native authors , both male and female ,
and a small circle , of course , of much more
than average ability. The Spanish language
lends Itself to verse more readily than does
English , and Is , therefore , a powerful factor
iu turning out rbynuten or all degrees. So
ciety It pleasant , coiirtroim , dignified ami hot-
pltablr It mutt be confo-M-d however , that
the treatment of worn n rather Jars upon nn
Amerlctn. She cannot go out trihout having
, relative or duenna to ccort hv- She can
not receive end entertain company without
her mother , aunt and sister * ' silting with her
alt the time , and even after tnnrrlag ? she Is
treated wlh scarcely more cart'deration thnn
In her splnsterhood , The' Women have a
strong aeUhctlc nature and 'expfcss It In the
cultivation of handsome garden * , In the deco
ration of th'lr homes' . In rfmbfoldcry , lace
work , water colors , and oil painting , and also
display quite a talent for lhb'rllghtcr farms
of music.
iiomjs nvuii.vfeiiqs.
I'roilnpcil ! > Menu * , of n. Needle
Tliromloil with , Itntr <
The very latest'false thing In , the way of
feminine adornment Is falsa eyebrows and
f Uo eyelashes which are put In not on
with tuch cunning art that fcvcn the closest
scrutiny will not discover the Imposture.
At present the employment of this new
dlrcovcry Is limited to a small number of
lyric nnd dramatic artistes In London and
Paris for the pain Is considerable , the pro
cess slow and costly , but , like everything
else , It will doubtless spread and In duo
time find Its way across the Atlantic to these
shore ? .
It was a Parisian coiffeur , It Is sold , who
discovered the method by which hairs can
bo planted , ono by one , where they grow
thin upon the eyebrows and In the places
where eyelashes nro missing or short. It Is
said that , when shaded by these long lashts ,
oidlnarlly good looking eyes take on a soft
languor that Is Irresistible and that fine cyea
luve their beauty much enhanced by this
device.
The operation by which now eyelashes are
put In IB as follows : Armed with a fine
needle , In which Is threaded a hair of the
tame shade as there which It Is to replace a
hair plucked from the head of the victim U
generally used the operator attacks tbo ex
treme cdgo of the eyelid , between the epi
dermis and the light , fatty hem which bor
ders It. The ncidlc passes In and out along
the edg ? of the lid , leaving Its hair thread
In loops of carefully graduated length.
When this Is done the ends of these loops
are cut off and trimmed , and the- result I ? a
fine , thick , long set of eyelashes. It Is tti9
finishing touch , however , which Is to come ,
which makes them seem llko nature's own.
When they are first cut they stick out In
ths most singular fashion , giving the person
DECORATIVE BODICES.
a peculiarly weird and uncanny look , like a
wax figure. To remedy thlaV'tUfe ' operator's
next step Is to take a pair cf tiny silver curlIng -
Ing tongs , no larger than knitting needles ,
and give them thei exact curve- which Is es
sential to perfect beauty.
Tha lower lid Is operated upon In tbo. same
way. Then the patient's eyes are carefully
bandaged for ten hours , and the following
day there is no trace of th > operation. It Is
claimed that 'these false lashes will stay In ,
and with frequent touchlngs up with1 the
tiny curling tongs will look extremely well
for six months. Then the process has to be
gone through with again.
The composition of this lotion Is a secret ,
and Ita Inventor , knowing he has a good
thing , does not neglect to charge as much as
he can get , and many people prefer to suffer
the physical pain Instead.
The nuliy In the AVe t.
The Portland Oregonlan has awarded a
$150 prize for the best definition of a baby.
The Heppner lady who won the- prize sent
In this answer : "A tiny feather from the
wing of love , dropped Into the sacred lap
of motherhood. "
The following are some of the best defi
nitions given :
The bachelor's horror , the mother's treas
ure , and the despotic tyrant of the most
republican household.
The morning caller , noonday crawler , mld-
nlg'it ' brawler.
The only precious possession that never
excites envy.
The latent edition of humanity of which
every couple think they possess the finest
copy.
A native of all countries who speaks the
language of none.
About twenty-two Inches of coo and wig
gle , writhe and scream , filled with suction
and testing apparatus for milk , and auto
matic alarm to regulate supply.
A thing we are expected to kiss and look
as If we enjoyed It.
A little stranger , with a free pass to the
heart's best affections.
That which makes home' happier , love
stronger , patience greater , hands busier ,
nights longer , days shorter , purses lighter ,
clothes shabbier , the past forgotten , the
future brighter.
I'1 ! ! Nil I Oil IVoN'M ,
Flowered vella of lace are seen on some of
the large hats.
High belts are made of folds of velvet
reaching almost up to the. bust.
Many of the evening cloaks are lined with
ermine and trimmed with chinchilla.
Nearly all of the latest coiffures show the
hair dressed low , very much llko the Langtry
knot ot former days.
Green purees of alligator and lizard skins
are popular. They have , gdld corners and
are larger tlun ever before.
A new Jacket has a b lt.passlng around the
back and through the side Bca'n\a \ , clasping In-
ulde of the front of the 'ajment.
Black Is used as a combination'with every
color , and It looks very odd\Jo see a gown or
bonnet without a touch qf black In U.
Leather drets waists U something now.
It ls thin enough to be pliable and la dec-
rated with applique lace tell nameas If U
were velvet. v v.
Black ulllc dres > cs eltheV for the house or
the street have a deep 'collaret of Persian
lamb trimmed In front with'a ' jabot of white
applique lace.
Many of the drcsjy Jacfietrf'wllf ' be of light
cloths and even cream Rhlfo wth | vest of
delicately colored brocade1 nnS"a Jabot of lace
under the chin.
A new silk far divan'pillows Is of deep
blue , with a conventionalized lotos design
in white and canary. This silk goes well
with mahogany ,
Capes and coats promise to be equally fa
vored as spring wrapa. It will be merely a
matter of choice between a loow , flowing gar
ment and one trimly fitted.
The latest dress skirts from Paris measure
from four to five and one-half yards around
the bottom. All fleeves , of whatever abapo
or ntyl # , are reduced In size.
Very expensive buttons en suite , and ehowy
belts and buckles , remain distinctly In the
fashion , and almost every corsage has one
or tbo other , or both , to complete Us decora
tion.
tion.Tho
The n weet necklets are of wble. as that la
the most fashionable fur this winter. They
ara ma4o of two whole oklns , with at least
thrco tfllln on either Vide. The muff should
bo cf th6 Mme fur.
Ilrlght , pott-textured cloths \ often tucil
Instead of velvet , nml when covered with
braiding or partly hidden by nppllquei of
silk nnd beads , or outlined with n spangled
B'mp ' , It proves vtrjr effective.
There. Is a great variety nml much glitter
about the dressy gownn this season. Sequins ,
fringes , bands and arabesques ot spaugled
silk cord ndorn nearly every new gown or
fancy waist of the winter.
Plaids have not become as popular as
the shopkeepers predicted early In the
season. They nre .not . fit for nil occasions
nnd however pretty must be strictly con
fined to rough and ready costumes.
Chatelaines nre coming back. The pret
tiest nre of gold and cost small for
tunes when complete. The feminine owner
of a small purse may commence , though ,
with n piece or two , and slowly nil the
dangling chains.
The vogue of sable tails Is quite com
prehensive. There Is no preltler or grace
ful trimming Imaginable for coats or
capes of cloth or fur. A recent collarette
has n band of sable with eight or ten
tails hanging In front.
The violet Is still holding Its own , and
very large boutonnlcrcs are the thing. They
are expensive , but help wonderfully In mak
ing a woman's toilet complete. They nre
most necessary In finishing a fur coat or
making a millinery muff look chic.
Not In 'years have the beautiful Jet garni
tures been as varied nml attractive as they
are this season. They range from the nar
row , glittering gimp or simple cord to the
most elaborate and elegant applique banda
and special pieces for bodice , skirt and
wrap.
Fancy ribbons come In for n large share In
the dress garnitures , especially on cvcnlnj
toilets , and the same girdles , loops' , anr
floating ends worn last season appear agnln ,
while the rich Persian and Pompidour ribbons
bens are very effectively employed on darker
gowns for day wear.
Silk or velvet waists of pink , violet or
turquoise ore made with a small yoke of
heavy Incc , from which start box plaits which
come down closely to tlip walet and do not
blouse at nil. These waists are fin'shcd ' with
n belt of the same color , which adds to the
length of the waist.
The newest models In c.ipes are shaped to
show the outline of the shoulders , which nre
not completely disguised by frills as In the
summer. The daintiest things In capes are
patterned all over with shadowy roses and
lined with palo pink or green sat'.n.
The tendency everywhere In fashion's do
main Is toward bright , conspicuous colors for
trimming on hats and bonnets , as well as on
gowns , and gay velvets In rose , vivid green ,
and orange , besides all the shades of red
from cerlso to mahogany , are Introduced Into
gowns of black or of the most subdued tints.
Changeable' or chameleon effects In silks ,
fnr.cy satins nnd silk and wool mixed fabrics
will continue to be very largely represented
among spring Importations , and to correspond
spend with these will be made a superb dis
play of wholly new Persian and Iridescent
gimps , galleons , elaborate passementeries
and appliques for dress garnitures.
Fur jackets are more expensive this winter
than ever before , as It takes such quantities
of fur for the sleeves and the full flaring
backs. The sleeves of the new coat show-
quite a change from the old models. Thu
shoulder seams are much longer and the
sleeves are put In much lower and have an
extraordinary droop toward'the elbow and
fit perfectly snug below.
Some of the more youthful gowns of velvet
have narrow folded belts ot the same as a
finish for the round waist ; and ns the buckle
Is very small It Is often of finest gold , In
laid with real gems. Basques are added to
many of the round waists , so thcro is no
end to the usefulness of the belt buckle
this winter , and a rule this bit of decoration
Is a very expensive one.
The latest make of evening cloaks recalls
the domino style. They are well plaited In
at the back , so that the bottom Is wide and
ample. These plaits have to be diminished
and arranged In a most clever way'on the
lining that supports them to prevent the
back looking clumsy. Immense hanging
sleeves wide enough to take In any other
kind of sleeve add to the voluminous appear
ance of the garment.
The neck ruche was never so popular as at
present. Large ruches of cashmere-like satin ,
covered with black lace and having a pairof
satin rosettes under each esr , are the latest
thing. Another neck arrangement consists
of lace laid In a lot of fluffy plaits and hav
ing myriad loops ot ribbon among the plaltp.
A big bow Is added hero and there , and per
haps a bunch of feathers , and a knot of
blossoms to give It a touch of color. The whole
Is finished with long floating ends and makes
a charming neck arrangement.
Fashionable designers and modluts both
here and abroad are slowly but very surely
varying the contcur.and arrangement of dress
sleeves without making any radical change In
their general effect. Puffs there are still , but
they are smaller , and In dropping pear shape ,
and the huge out-spreading ballon model
looks as If much of Its gaseous filling had es
caped and thus reduced Its distended outlines.
As for the new mutton-leg. It has readied a
normal size , and the butchar would now
recognize It and understand how It obtained
Its name.
A decidedly Frcnchy petticoat Is of pale
violet , trimmed with deepr violet , yellow and
lace. It in made to flare a good deal and
across the back breadth Is a deep Spanish
flounce sot onto about the depth of the knees
and with a full niching at the head. Thlo
flounce Interlined with haircloth and holds
the dreas nit lit out beautifully. All around
the foot of the skirt Is a flounce of pale yel
low silk. Over this falls a frill of cream chiffon
fen , Ono of deep violet follows , covered with
the chiffon. The variety of colors do not phew
until the skirt Is In motion , and then the
buss of the rainbow are seen In every direc
tion.
FYniliilncot -M.
Mmo. Modjeska Is excessively fond of music
and devoted to Its study.
Eleanora Dtiso has been writing a romance ,
dealing with the Italian stage.
Both Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett and
Ella Wheeler Wllcox have tastes which are
particularly domestic.
Miss Elllcott , daughter of the bishop ot
Gloucester and Bristol , has composed a can
tata entitled : "Tho New Year Looking
Forth. "
Fran Eva Nansen , wife of Dr. F. Nanscn ,
the Arctic explorer , having appeared at Stockholm
helm with marked success as a public singer ,
Is now touring through Denmark and Sweden.
The empress of China has a passion for
Jewels. It was formerly Illegal for Chinese
women to wear Jewels , but the presnt em
press persists In her fancy for precious stones.
Alfrlda Andree has Jut't ' received from the
king of Sweden the nndal , Llteris ct Artlbus ,
for her years of service as organist at the
cathedral of Gothenburg. She Io a well known
Swedish composer.
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe has succeeded
heroelf twelve times as president ot the As
sociation for the Advancement of Women.
This society Is twenty-two years old nnd
counts Its membership all over the United
States.
Mrs. Ilobert Louis Stevenson has de
cided to reside hereafter In San FrancUco.
She has , In company with her eon and
daughter , embarked for Samoa , where she
will arrange the affairs of the deceased nov
elist.
elist.Dr.
Dr. Carrie Wolfsruck of New York City
Is ono of the most successful lady dentists
on this continent. She. has just written a
treatise on "Dentistry , " extolling the- pro
fession as one of the best avenues open to
women ,
Mrs , Laura E. rflclmrds , a daughter of
Julia Ward Howe , has written a sympa
thetic poem on the Armenian trouble. The
verses ring with stirring sentiment that
long ego made her gifted mother the
friend ot the oppressed.
MUs Alice French , better known as Oc
tave Thanet , la an enthusiastic amateur
photographer. Her Intense Interest In the
working classes has become more than an
outside Istue , for It has come to permeate
her literary work ,
The young empress of Russia Is as En
glish In her leanings as If she had been
brought up In her mother's country. The
Anglican surroundings which she. has In the
past year contrived to give to the court of
the czar are not altogether to the llklot , '
of the people.
Sweden baa her Sarah Grand In the
person of Ellen Iditrom , whose novel ,
"Wind-Driven , " is "Tho Heavenly Twlna"
wltli lh twins left out. The heroine of ( his
ttory doe * just a the heroine of. the "II.
IT. " lld mnrrlos n Jaded old man nnd leaves
him.
him.Mr
Mr * V. S. Grant held n reception nml
houscwarmlnK At her new home In Wash-
I Ingtan. The house uus filled with guests
' from diplomatic nnd official circles nnd th ?
| nffnlr was a moit brilliant one , recalling the
, old d yg when .Mra Grant m do such n
charming hostess nt the white house.
Miss Knte Strong , daughter of Augustus
It , Strong , 1) , D. , L. I * D. , president of the
Rochester Theological seminary , has been
re-elected president of the Rochester
branch of Vnssnr College Students' so
ciety. Mlsa Strong has Just completed a
course of lectures before the ladlfs of Roches
ter on tv following topics : "Ancient Ath
ens , " "MMcni Greek Life" nnd "Modern
Athens. "
Miss Annie S. Peck. A , M. , the youni ;
wenian who climbed the Matterborn last
srmmer , n feat row men have accomplished ,
Is to lecture on her nsccnt In Huston. Mint
Peck's subject Is nn absorbing one and there
can be no doubt about the success ot her
lecture , ns Mio 1ms already written n most
Interesting magasclno nrttclc on the Matter-
born and her acquaintance with It ,
Mrs. Ruth McEnnery Stuart and Mrs.
Elizabeth 11. Custer , the Kenenvl'a widow ,
are two of the most popular parlor lecturers
In this country. Mrs. Sttmt lectures or
lends from the platform , I bcllevo. hut Mr. .
Ouster's talks nre moro Informal. Hoth
IndlcH have apartments In New Yntlt on the
sumo street , but they spend thp greater part
of their winters "on the rond. "
Mrs. Gladstone has never thought enough
so her friends lament of dress. She Is
wholly absorbed In caring for her husband's
health , a subject on which ho Is not , nt nit
points , sufllclcntly solicitous himself , I.ndy
Salisbury Is much exercised nt picsent over
the wrongs of the lesser lUhts In the the-
ntrlcal world. In fact , all sorts of queer
philanthropies nro the end of the century
Inurest for Englishwomen ,
Mrs. Alice Ramsey , n young American
woman , Is Just about to make her debut
as a playwright under the sponsorship of
Mr. Bcorbohm Tree , who will present her
first play at the Haymnrket as soon us
"Trilby" Is tnkcn off. Mrs. Ramsey Is the
wife of nn nctor , ono who Is young nnd ver
satile. She was highly educated In music
and expected tc go on the conceit stage. Her
mt'slcal abilities were exceptional. Hut after
her marriage ho took to literature.
Mlsa Sibyl Carter , out on the government
reset vntlons In Minnesota , has been hnrd at
work teaching Indian women to make Inco.
Her pupils varied In ago from 18 to 70. Many
varltlcs In lace were taught , English point
being made at three ot tne ince-maning
schools. The women wore paid the highest
prices the profits warranted and were deeply
Interested In their work. There are lace-
mnklng schools now at White Earth , Leech
Lake. Red Lake , Wild Rico River , Birch
Cocley nnd Mendota. These schools are all
In charge of Miss Carter.
Klvclrlu IlUtcrn.
Electric Bitters is a medicine suited for any
season , but perhaps more generally needed In
the spring , when the languid exhausted feel
ing prevails , when the liver Is torpid and
sluggish and the need of a tonic and altera
tive Is felt. A prompt use of this medicine
has often averted long and perhaps fatal
bilious fevers. No medicine will act moro
surely In counteracting and freeing the
system from the malarial poison. Headache ,
Indigestion , constipation , dizziness yield to
Electric Bitters. Only fifty cents per bottle
at Kuhn & Co.'s drug store.
M3W PUIII.IOATIONS.
iimiiiiiiiiiiiimiiimiiiiiiiuniiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiii
0 : : ©
Most house-doors have
key-holes. A key that
enters the key-holes of
over one million and a
quarter homes , must be
a marvel. Such a key is
"COMFORT , "
a beautifully illustrated monthly
magazine , to be had of your
newsdealer for 5 cents.
' Sec key nest time.
nmnininininwiiniiiniiminniniiHMnnimnniTinii
social
occzssionsi
You cannot go
to 1he opero.
IwiThoi/T
&v whiff oF
( Rowri
THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME.
Flowery , refreshinO , delic&Ts
end lasting. < > .
For sale by druggists only.
IMPERIAL CROttN P&FUMERYCO ,
SAIMT LOUIS.
MEYER BROTHERS' DRUG CO..AGEHTS
ALSOTHY ( WEDDING BELL51 Two new
\PEACHBLOW.j \ odors.
3R EAKFAS1SUPPER
E PP S'S '
GRATEFUL-COMFORTING
COCOA
BOILING WATER OR MILK.
OPIUi ° R F40RPH.NE HABIT
VI I 'if ' Kll pijiftsBDlT 4 PESMAHIHTtY CUBED
OF * , e. B. COL.L.INS *
PAINLESS OPIUM ANTIDOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY.
Discovered In 1868. "THERIAKI" Book Freo.
Office312,78MonroeSlreet . . . , puiPAfin III
f.o. DflAwm e UnlliAUU ! ILli
Kvory blemish will quickly dlsnpponr
from Hie skin nml the complexion will
become nliMilnti'ly perfect ami clcnr na
crystal by the USD of
Mine. M. Yale's
WorlcI-Fntnous
Complexion
Remedies
At II years of ORC Mmc. M. Ynlc la cnltctl th
inot beautiful \\omnti ll\lnr. Kho tloca not
look tnoic thnn IS , nml irvinMcB nn nngcl moro
Ihnn n live ttomnti. Her Ix-nuty hn * entirely
liocn eiillhfttdl nn.l . her youth iiri'-oncil by the
Ufc of there mucillos.
Mine. YAIiU'S AI mo ml llloNMim Cream
Rennet course | > orcs , keeps the sl < ln nmooth
nml | iiifocl. JI.W per Jar ,
Mmc. VAI.IVS Kklii Kooil
JIIIMOVKS wniNKI.US nml nil trncc of npc.
llestim-a nnd inoscrvca youth. l\M \ und 13.00
J.ii tuo slioo.
Mint' , YAI.IVS Special Lotion-
Is n sum : cum : ran IMMPLUS. u.o
per boltlo.
Mm ? . YAI.IVS Sitrclnl Ointment
A sure cute for Illnckhrndn. JI.W P T Jar.
Mine. YAI.K'S Mole .t War I nitrnctor.
llftnovenVnrtn nnd Moles In a. few applica
tions , } 3.W per bottle.
Mine. YAI.trS'lliiHt I-'ooil
n perfect Neck nml Dual ; It crp-
piiciri iiinl Mimncsg. SI. f > 0 nnd $3.00
per Jar two sizes.
.Mine .YAIiK'S C niilc'\li > ii Illeaclt
Guaranteed Io remoxo inllowness , moth
pnlclus nnd nil rkln lilcmlrhes. It Rives a
natural complexion nt mtnvelous purity and
beauty. $2.00 $ per bottle.
Mine. YAl.K'S Hair Tonic
The llrnt nnd only dleeoxcry In thn hlBlory
of chetnlclry kncmn to tuin cruy hair buck
to Its natural color \\lthout d > e. It Blop
hair fnllhiK In 21 hours nml creates n lux-
uilant Kfnnth. U Is n perfect hair ilreislnic
for Kcncinl u o nml n Ruarnntecd cure for nit
niaimir of scalp illswiM * pure nnd wonderful.
Jl.OO per bottle ; C for $5.00.
.Mine. YAI.T.'S lOIKIr of llcaiily
Cultivates natural rosy cheek * . A wonderful
eltln tonic. 51. OJ per bottle.
.Mine. YAI.U'S lllooil Tonic
I'urlries the bloo < t nnd cures ll\pr nml kidney
complnlnts. 11.00 per buttle ; C for (5.00.
Mine. YAI.JS'S U > cliro\v ami
Jl.OO per Jar.
Mmo. YAM-r.S IIiiiul WliKcncr
Jl.OO per bottle.
Mine. YAMVS Celcltrnleil Ia Frcelcln
The only Trecklo Cure. H.M per bottle ,
Mine. YAI/K'S Famous Ki-eat Hcott
The only permanent cure of superfluous hair.
Tn It OH but live minutes tn remuvo Imlre ,
loots nnd all ; does not hurt. J5.UO.
Mine. YAI.ir.S Fruit ( Jura
A distinct remedy nnd never fnlllntr cure for
female \\eakness In nny form. The beat
tonic ever compounded for Inning up a weak
sjstcm. Jl.OO per bottle ; 6 for J5.00.
AVrltc fur Mme. YALE'S "Guide to
Ilpuiity. "
Send 10 cents to pay postaRp.
AM dniKKlBts nnd dealers sell tlioso remedies.
llowarc of countci felts.
N. 11. I will pay J3.000.00 for the nrrest ana
conviction of any one counterfeiting my rem
edlcs. ( Signed ) Mme. M. YALE.
Be Sure
It's Pure
You don't want ( o eat adulterateat
buckwheat or buckwheat that isn't
buckwheat at all.
Wright's '
BuckWheat -
Wheat
is an honest product.- Nothing bift
plain buckwheat of the very best kind ,
At Your Dealers.
THAN ANY OTHER REMEDY.
Tun ant's I.'xtrnct of Cu-
liclii anil Cnpalbn l a gnfe ,
rcrlHln nm1 quick curt for
gononhca and tfcet und It
an old-tilcj rcin'Jy for all
rtlifnfipH of the urinary er-
gan.i. Combining In n highly
concentiuled furm the me
dicinal \liliiC3 of cubobi
and cnimllm , In portabla
sbnpo , freedom fiom tail *
and H'fcJy notion ( curlnr In
lest lime tlinn nny other
preparation ) inaka It TUB
MOST VAI.iUIUi KNOWN
IUMIDY. : TO prc\uu fraud ,
ce that cxery pacKniie has a red drip ucrou the
ace or label , with the tlpnature of Tarrant ft
Co. , N. Y. , upon It. rniCD , 11.09. Bold by all
mgmgai wiiito * COMI'OUNU
TTINSYOPILLS
RafoandSIIIlH. Always reliable. Talcs
DOiubstltuie. Formilubyallilruireliln. 82.00. Pend
4c.for Woman' I ( toff aiiiinl.V11C'OX HI'KCIFIO
CO. , 2Z3 bOUTll KUHTntir.lMIJiAOA..l > A ,
Let in the
Sunshine
of health. You can brighten
your life , banish debility and
8ain strength and flesh by
ic use of
,
THAOB MARK.
the food drink. U is the ideal tonic , vitalizes the blood ,
unravels the snarls in your nerves , putsyour brain in proper
working order. Great nourishment for nursing mothers ,
consumptives and all sufferers from wasting diseases ,
To l > e hail at all druggists' and grotcrs , '
Prepared byANHBUSER-BUSCH BREWING ASSOCIATION ,
ST. LOUIS , U. S. A.
Sett Jfor landtomify illustrated colored booklet and otter reading matter.