Nebraska Newspapers

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THE O3I.AITA JXAlI/r J3E3C ; SITiNJXAY , DEO EACH IS 11 22 , 1SU5.
'MAS WOMANS PAG
considered desirable. It Is made
liny Bill spangles , with a green
ofvlilto satin sewn all over with
velvet stock , and a gresn satin
band dowji the front.
This band , which Is thickly set
with Rhinestones and emeralds , Is
outlined with a narrow row ol
paillettes In shaded green scales.
The revcrs each side of the
bed I co are of chinchilla fur , as
without fur rcvcrs , and chin
chilla seems to bo the skin most
used , a Jeweled front Is never
seen.
In the most effective cases the
fronts narrow V-shape to the
\\alst. There they arc gathered
easily Into the waistband , but
without the old pouch look so
long In favor.
HOLIDAY FAMIIO.V
Borne Novel mill Ailiirnttli' Kolllon o
the Toilet.
NEW YORK , Use. 20. In the picture :
here shown are demonstrated some c
fashion's latest wrinkles In details of th <
toilet.
The ono In headgear , as can be seen , run
to pure folly. As far a utility goes then
Is neither ryhtno nor reason In big liata fo
winter use ; but oven the most hardonoi
drc39 reformer could scarcely deny th ? ador
able becomlngness of sonic of the big
ctiapeaux now worn.
And If It Is a ( HlllcnU matter for two o
them to travel abreast through a wide door
way , or sit In peace on the same carriage
Boat , these arc puny objections to the womat
who wants merely to bo beautiful.
Ono reason of the extreme becomlngness o
some of the largo hats Is that the hats them
selves arc often made entirely of velvet
\vhlch texture shadows the hirdest line :
tenderly.
The shape most In favor Is the round , over
"flat , " always fashionable In Paris , nnc !
besides the velvet there are flats In braldcc
felt In ono or moro colors , In plain felt , am
In chenille.
An enormous quintlly of trimming Is usoO
and put on to produce a bread effect across
the front. Chameleon ribbons , or chomeleor
silks , knife-plaited and doubled , and tlicr
shaped to Imitate ( lowers , will be massed
In great rossttes In front ; and from Ihsso lonp
wings , with slender swordlikepoints , will
project far beyond the brim's edge.
Sometimes a hat will have a great bird
crouching In front , perhaps a very cross-
looking poll parrot , Its unfurled wings and
tall promoting the desired height of crown
&
*
FRONT OP SATIN WITH SPANGLED EAt-
BROIDERIES.
and breadth of brim. Largo owl heads , with
paste gems forming their big ringed eyes ,
re also seen , and combine effectively with
I" green and brown.
\ SXYLES ILLUSTRATED.
' The hat In the background of t'nc ' cut Is
realized In these colors and decorated with
owl heads.
The shape Is a brown braided felt , slightly
turned up at the back , where ends of deep
( yellow lace rest on the hair. Pleated
chameleon silk , changing from brown to
green , and two bull's eye ornaments of
brilliants and emeralds form the other trlm-
inlng.
The owl heads , wlilch are left In their own
natural browns , of course , are likewise very
striking- black velvet hats , but In this case ,
with the exception , perhaps , of a knot of silk
or velvet roses under the brim , or a gem
buckle or pin , no other color appears In the
trimming.
The second hat pictured 'Is also ot braided
chenille. In color It Is entirely In a curloui
Jewel-blue that has almost a sapphire bril
liancy. The trimming consists of bow loops
and upstanding ends of chameleon ribbon ,
shadowed wll'.i flowers In a deepr blue\and
long wings , which darken heavily In shade
at the tips.
FOR TUB CARRIAGE AND CALLS.
A stunning carriage hat Just Imported for
a Virginia belle IS most worthy of a place in
the memory. It Is not Illustrated , but a
clever woman who has any- notion of mil-
llnory , can -easily reproduce' It from descrlp ;
tlon , and at onc-Ilfth the cost of the gorgeous
original.
This was also ono of the big shapes that
are now astounding the streets ; a black velvet - '
vet Hat with a moderate , very stiff crown
and the brim dipping downward over so
ullghlly at the sides.
The front anil sides of the crown were
completely hidden by three monster single
pcpples , In colors of royal purple , a pale
magenta and an apple green , made of taffeta
illk pleated and with artificial poppy centers.
These waved In the loose , easy lines of
itnglo popples , but when spread out each
was as largo as a desert plate. At the lift
there was a black osprey aigrette seven
Inches high , which Is now considered the
correct height for all aigrettes. The short
bunchy ones , once In favor , are only seen at
the places where the secrets of smart hats
are not known.
v Finally this wonderful hit rounded up with
a detail that would have made- any > roman
lovely. This was a long scarf at ths back
A N1JW STOCK.
of black Brussels- net of a tulle-like fineness
and with a two-Inch hem outlined all around
with n Jet thread.
, This , In wearing , wrapped around the
throat until the chinas almost hidden ,
and the hat nested low on the head with the
effect of a very big crown and \vos tilted
slightly forward.
SPLENDID VESTS.
A Jeweled "front" to your Louis Seize coat ,
or uiy ether best boJlce , Is another ot fash-
Ion's freaks.
An expensive freak It Is , too. for these
fronts begin with a foundation nf white satin
to splendid In quality that It has almost the
thickness ot kid. This , In turn , will often
be covered entirely with fine lace , each
figure of which , perhaps , will be outlined with
gold embroidery and net with colored genu
and sewn nlth spangles and sequins until
the front l > a mere jeweled breastplate.
The simp ; of the front shown In the do-
ljn IK the one most favorfd , ab It elves the
full , high bust and long slender w .lst now
u A petunia clolli coat lately seen
l.ad chinchilla rovers and a Jeweled front-of
especial magnificence.
The foundation was the white satin , which
Is always used , and over this hunt ; a second
front of white net closely embroidered with
pearls , amethysts and purple paillettes. A
round yoke , that had a low neck effect on the
satin foundation , and ending In three straps
that fastened Into the waistband , was the
shape of the not covering.
To show the full effect of these the front
was wider at the waist than Is common.
A white satin choker completed the throat ;
and around this was wound three times a long
rope cf pearl beads a real pearl necklace
that fastened with a diamond clai-p.
In the little neqk fixing given Is shown
a new thing In stocks worn by very up-to-
date maids.
For thla purpose ona of the chameleon or
Persian ribbons Is generally chosen. In a
three-Inch width , and a yard and half length.
Hero Is the way the thing Is adjusted :
The ribbon Is divided evenly In half , the
middle pinned at the throat In front , the
ends cirrled around to the back , then crossed
and brought to the front again. At this
point there Is a. second pinning , and the ends
and doubled like a man's tie and made
Into a small bow ; a handsome stlck-pln
holds this steady , a second and smaller one ,
with a jeweled tly head , connecting by a tiny
chain and thrust In the stock at the left.
The whole effect of such a stock Is perky
and stylish. And the fact that It can bo
accomplished at the small expense Is cer
tainly In Its favor.
GOLFING INFLUENCE.
In the way of foot gear toclety devotees
have had a stroke of sense due to the fashion
able favor bestowed upon golf. All the boots
now worn by elegant women are distinguished
by a thickns'ss of leather and comfort of
size very Scotch In tendency and seem to
promise much In the way ot health.
Indeed , so solidly sensible are boots the
best people are -wearing , * that the perverted
feminine ot French heels and pasteboard
soles Is almost a person to be looked at
askanc. .
The new walking boots are ot calfskin
with projecting sole ? , and a last on the
Piccadilly principle.
The toes are either pointed or round and
trimmed with perforated tip. The edges
of the foxing Is also perforatc-d. and though
flat heels are in best order where height
is desired a pitched military heel Is admis
sible. These boots are both buttoned and
laced.
A long laced ono , made In the same way ,
for cycling , has uppers of soft oxide kid
and th.3 shank shaved down to be as flexible
in movement as a glove.
These- are commonly made to order and
cost' $7 the pair up. NINA FITCH.
CIIHISTMAS DELICACIES.
TillnKI tiint lA-ml nn Air of Xovt-lty
to I In- Holiday Dinner.
The Christmas dlnn'r specialty supplied th's
year by confectioners comes In the form of
Illuminated Ices. Electricity and tiny crystal
lamps are employed when a caterer arranges
the holiday feast , but any hostess can con
trive to serve Illuminated Ices at her Christ
mas dlnneivby using bed room tapers.
For a large form , to be brought on In cere
mony by the waitress when all t5ie dining-
room lights are turned v ry low , a big block
of Ic ? must be the foundation. This should
be hollowed out. turned down like a 1)211 and
beneath It set , the Instant before dessert Is
brought on , a couple of Inch long tapsrs , set
afloatlng In a email tea cup. The best effect
In arranging the Ices Is secured by cutting
the foundation block In the form of a pyra
mid , with jetting points here and there along
Its surface. It the pyramid Is very large-
'
some three or four tapers will be needed for
Illumination Inside , while without , on all th ?
points of the icy mound , must be set frozen
figures In Ice cream , of whatever seems ap
propriate or convenient to serve at a Christ
mas dinner. The top of the pyramid should
of course bo surmounted by a largo Ice cream
statueof Saint Nicholas.
A BLAZING BOAR'S HEAD ,
The confectioners sho\y \ molds In which
they will make a whole series of Christ
mas waits from sweet cream , each
wait In a quaint costume and
every one with a little socket
In the top of his head , In which the smallest
of colored candles will be placed at the mo
ment of serving. Another capital model for
a Christmas dessert piece Is a half llfe-slzs
boar's head , done In frozen vanilla cream.
The eyes are colored gland with .tapers lit
In behind them , a big apple ot strawberry Ice
Is eet in the jaws , a wreath ot holly circles
the neck and a rivulet of brandy , poured In a
second broader dlali set under the one holding
the boar's head , burns brightly aa the platter
Is carried once around the table before serv
ing.Ices
Ices are , however , sometimes expensive ,
sometimes not available , and If the house
keeper Is sometimes In a quandary as how
best to kupply her table with a simple novelty
on Christmas day , let her try a peach pudd
ing. This will require ono can or Jar
of preserved peaches , EX ! eggs , three cups
of milk , halt a cup ot powdered sugar , two
Ublcjpoonfuls of corn starch and onetable -
spconful ot butter. Scald the milk , stir In
the corn starch , wet with cold milk , and
cook , still stirring , until It begins to thicken.
Take ( com the fire and beat In the melted
butter , then the yolks of three eggs and ttio
whipped whites of two , Lastly add the sugar
and whisk the whole up to a Tight cream.
Drain all syrup from the poaches , lay them
In a bake dish , pcur over the mixture and
set In the oven ten minutes , then spread
with a meringue of the four remaining whites
and a little sugar , Let this tinge to a light
brown In the- oven , and serve tl-o pudding
hot , with peach Julc for a sauce , or cold
with cicam ,
A DELICATE SALAD.
After a heavy Christmas dinner a meat
naiad Is heat replaced by one of tomatoes
and celery that Is neither difficult nor expensive
pensive- . One can of tomatoes should bo
stewed with a pinch of salt for a tew mo
ments , then strained and ( ho red juice thick
ened with a little lejatlne , a tablcspoontul
Is ( ufflclent. The tomatoes can bo put In
mold to form , or merely left to cool and
lolldlfy In a wlad bov.l. It a mold Is used.
turn the tomato Jelly , when cold , Into a
salad bowl , head round It shredded celery
and pour over Jelly and celery a liberal sup
ply ot cither rich mayonnaise or cream
salad dressing , and wrve with small salted
crackers.
Fruit Is the awkwardest of courses to
serve unless taken In the right way. In
place of passing nn unstable tower of oranges ,
i-tc.i from timid guest to guest , who
fears to bring down the whole
structnro by taking ono piece , a single fruit ,
as grapes for eximptc , on be prepared after
a most tempting and comfortible fashion.
Heap finger glasses or deep , old-fnshloned
dessert saucers with Ice pounded as fine an
snow , pick off some1 fifteen or twenty graps
for each saucer. Imbed them a tow moments
before serving In the Ice and set ths raucer
at every Individual's plate.
It the family dfnund their chief meat
course shall be turkey the housekeeper can
only gracefully acquiesce , but the turkey
for variety's sake Is as well saved over for
Now Year's day , and slutted venison mokes
EFFECTS OP THE NSW Ilkfs.T
Si i f
a wonderfully savory dlah. A large , fat
haunch of-thls meat should be stuffed with a
rich compound of rice , sage , spices , etc. It
must then be basted as It .roasts. When cut
; he round slices will prove as tender as tur-
< ey and rich with streaks ot the spicy dress-
Ing. When nuts arrive plquanto flavor may
3e given the coffoa. on this holiday occasion
3y passing a small bottle ot the sweet creme
d'yuetteo cordial to the guests , with Instruc
tions to try a half teaspoonful in their cups.
Liquid violets could not lend a more fairylike -
like flavor to the cafe nolr , while to toast
.he day and Its sentiments let tbe hostess
mix the simplest of punches right at the
table , calling It champagne cup. She will
need only to empty one quart bottle of cham
pagne In a bowl with two of seltzer , a glass
if sherry , a strip or two of cucumber peel , a
'ew drops of green mint , a bowl of crushed
, ce and a teacup of sugar. This Is mild
enough for the very young folks , but of
aufllclent flavor for older palates and cheer
ful enough In which to drink old Father
Christmas down with a rousing good will.
CAY C1IHISTMAS DANCES.
French KljjuroM Unit Are Popular n <
Smart PuiictloiiM.
The rage In smart Parisian salons , at pres
ent. Is the old and graceful dance called la
'
GOLFING. CALLING AND WALKING SHOES.
favanc , which was In vogue In the fifteenth
and sixteenth centuries.
The gay Parisians , however , are reviving
this old measure for the sake of Its plstur-
osquo effects , and the pavane , or the pavana ,
Is becoming vastly popular -American ball
rooms. It Is a Frenchman , Emllo Mlchelot ,
who. In speaking of this old dance , adds , "It
la necessary that those who dance It , be endowed
dewed with beauty. " This Is all very easily
arranged , tor all maids and matrons arrayed
In filmy , diaphanous ball gowns are beautiful
and the men It Is the men above all , who
add the touch ot plcturesqueness to the scene.
In caps adorned with long plumes , velvet
capes , embroidered with gold , and precious
etoncs and swords at their sideslllio gay
cavaliers of Louis XIV's ' time.
To have seen the pavana danced , ono should
have lived In the * tlmo of Margaret of Valols ,
who was ondowcd with every gift of the
graces , "her body , as finely molded as that
of a Greek goddess , glowed In the pavana ,
like a full-down flower of humanity swaying
In the cytherean breeze. " Princes dreamed
of this Parisian dancer In the bolltudo of their
kingdoms. King John of Austria once came
from the Netherlands to Paris. Ho mingled
with the gentlemen to aas Margaret danc ?
pavana. When she had retired , delighted ,
though fatigued , King John Immediately left
the capital for his home , lila eye forever daz
zled by a vision of lightness and beauty ,
Another old dance revived which Is per
haps moro In accord with modern tastes la
the passe-pled de la Ilclne. The steps have
been arranged by the dancing master ot the
French opera house , and to a certain extent
adapted to modem requirements. Tlio dance
Is a kind o' minuet , only brisk and lively ,
composed of eight figures. Two couples are
required and any number of gets ot four
dancers can take part.
The leader should open the dance- with his
partner , the arm extended and slightly
rounded , and the- two dancers not too close to
each oilier ; by Ihli means the position of
each will be more graceful.
The Important figures are second , third and
elxth , as follows :
In the second figure , or pirouette , the cav
alier liolds both hands of his partner , having
the right one in his left , raised very high ,
while her left Is taken with bl right at tbe
usual height , meanwhile- giving a turn to his
partner to whirl her around to his left side.
In the t'nlrj figure glissade both cross
hands and p rform backward glissades , or
sliding steps , the man guldlnp to the left to
describe half n circle , and the lady to the
l.'ft. to also infike a halt circle.
The sixth figure Is n gay basque step enc
more the partners are sldo by side and mer
rily dance a kasqiio step.
The grand circle- forms ths next figure- ,
when nil the couples make a circle , with faces
turned outward and balance forward and
backward.
For the eighth or last figure the men Join
hands , while- their partners turn round , cich
man starting from the right side. This ends
the dance.
It Is very gay and very charming , and one
who has seen the dance cannot wonder that
all 1'nrls Is taken captive by the graceful
pao3e-pled do la Ileln ? , which Is In evidence
at every smart danco. At the end of the
evening all the company join hands In the
jolly farandcle , whlth the artist has pictured
so cleverly ; nr d'ltIs , a rollicking , 'merry end
ing to A hajjpygc 'enliig.
' PAIIVHSAMAIllTAXS. . , „ ,
' " , 'r _
Good AVorlc ot KamoiiNlItlcli ami
Ilriiutifnl Women.
With scarcely an exception the girls whose
coming-out teas and frocks and dally doings
are faithfully chronicled are women who de
vote almost as much tlmo and- attention to
their charities as they do to their gowns.
For instance , Miss Gertrude Vanderbllt
celebrates her birthdays In most charming
fashion. She Invites a party of girls belong
ing to the Friendly society to spend the- after
noon with her. Luncheon Is provided , spread
forth as daintily with flowers and fruits as
though the entertainment were for the hos
tess' IntlmatQ friends , and each girl carries
away as a souvenir ot the occasion a box of
bonbons and a basket ot flowers.
All the Vanderbllts are extremely charitable
ble- , and It Is said to bo the rule In Cornelius
Vandcrbllt's household that whatever the
cost of maintaining the establishment , the
same amount In each Instance Is given to
charity. The Items are carefully watched
each month and a similar amount Is put to
the account of others less blessed with this
world's goods. Mrs. Vandeibllt used to have
the special supervision of this unique account
book , but within the last year or two It has
passed Into Miss Gertrude's keeping and the
task that she- has set herself Is no slnecuie.
Ono can fancy how largo these charitable
donations must be from the fact , In connection
with ono Item alone , that the number of serv
ants Is nevsr less than thirty.
Every Monday morning for the last year
or two Miss Alice Shepard , now Mrs. David
Hennen Morris , has spent the hours from 9
till 12 at the librarian's desk , at the Young
Woman's Christian association. Her duties
for the time are to relieve the librarian from
the monotonous task of changing the books
of members who call. Mrs. Morris Is on the
library committee , and she not only gives her
money but her time to the association.
Mrs. Morris Is also interested in tenement
house work and In conjunction with her
cousin , Miss LHa Slcane- , employs a trained
nurs3 to look after the babies of a thickly
populated district In the slums. The report
the nurse sends eich week during the sum
mer , and which she makes personally during
the winter , Miss Sloane declares Is moro In
teresting to her than a novel , and often when
at Lenox or Newport she takes a trip to
Now Yorlf to'iwsonally attend to the pur
chase of som ? . needed articles ; possibly a
modest lary'ette'for a new-born baby.
Mlsfl Vlrgltil Falr gives much of her time-
to good wortis ! in1 the most unaffected way , on < l
all the pcorvlth' ; ' whom she comes In contact
have rcasori to bless her. She does not
satisfy herisifMty merely giving money to
Institutions nor does she simply give alma to
Individuals" 'Shb makes herself acquainted
with families lij'ustresB ' ) for ( ho purpose of as
sisting thonvWjthe best posilble way.
Plnard virves u supper every year , some
time dunn-R the. holidays at Mrs. Plerpont
Morgan's lirtuae.'which Is remarkable more
because of ' [ Wmtercstlng company to which
the supper"Js sprvsd than because of the
feast Itself / *
The menMIs .such as the caterer places
before the Vnrltfus divisions of the 400 who
give ball rfura > 3rB , but the company on the
occasion Inrjffaejftion to composed of 300 girls ,
members of'th 'WorklnK Girl's club of St.
George's church , New York City. The club
b one In wlilch Miss Morgan la Intensely
Interested. ' "
Outsldo of ( he fact that the glrli are
plainly though 'prettily dresseil In every
case the whole affair Is modeled In the like
ness of a' ' swell entertainment. The rooms
ere brilliantly Illuminated , the tables are
decorated lavishly with flowers and an or
chestra furnishes music for dancing and
each girl U presented upon her arrival with
a magnificent American Heauty rose.
Pretty Mrs , Lorlllard Spencer Is also much
Interested In the noble work carried on at
St. George's , and once a month during the
winter uhe presides at a mother's meeting
and gives words of cheer and comfort to
tha members.
Mrs. Jack Aztor has a particular weak-
nets for bootblacks , so she cays , and upon
all holiday occasions , Christmas , Easter and
birthdays In her falnlly , they are remembered
and feasted at her expense. Mrs. Actor has
also done much ai Ferncllffe , her country
place on th ? Hudson , In establishing sowln
schools for girls.
Siinir 1'iicln A lion I TlionAVIm Cn ( < >
to thp Xi w York "lott. "
West Thirty-fifth street , between Fifth an
Sixth avenues , Is one ot the greatest resort
ot society women In Now York , owing to th
fact that her- reside no less than twenty-flv
fashionable drcspmtkei * . To iho unlnltlntet
says a writer In the New York Ledger , ther
would seem to be merely a great numlrr c
afternoon and morning calls going on , na th
"swell" courtages nre seen itinJIng aboul
but those who know are simply surprlred a
the length of time a woman can spend wit !
her dres3maker.
Some of these establishments are furnlt'he
with signs , bul the majority , who pride Hum
solves on the Exclusivenesa ef their trade , dla
( lain this method of attracting attention , an
there Is nothing to distinguish thslr ostab
llshments from Vrlvato tei'.donces. ' Thes
nre Iho dressmakers who cater lo the woilt
and farhlon cf Now York City , the "Foil
Hundred , " so-called. The Aster family alon
employ two or three , for It Is qulto the cor
reel thing for a society woman to dlBtrlbut
her patronage , si as not to b > known by th
cul of her gowns , and In order lo avail hersol
ot different styles and novelties.
In order to obtain cnlrance Into one o
Ihcse establishments a letler of Introduc
tlon , If perhaps not absolutely necessary , I
n fjrer guarantee that you will r C3lvo some
thlntr more than frigid attention and a will
bred stare as you make your wante known
You must have evidence to show that yoi
expect to patronize , and that to au xinllmltci
extent , clss you are not wanted. "Tran
slents" are not desired. Neither Is a cus
tomer supposed to "haggle" or even nsl
the price of the garment she Is thers lo so
lect. The dressmaker Is supposed to havi
carte blancheIf she has not she lose :
Interest. For a true artist In the- line cannel
nol be expected to tlo herself down lo i
mare mailer of dollars and cenls. Kim
fault afterward If yen like , when U Is tot
late , but never before. You will lose by II
and your dress will suffer. It Is raid thai
the wlfo of cno of New York's pet million
aires Invariably chops of $2 or $3 on everj
bill rendered her. and Iho dressmaker knowIng -
Ing It , Invariably adds $2 or $3 iii order tc
favor her pel economy.
In many of these dressmaking establish
ments there Is nothing to Indicate that- dress
making li > carried on. There Is merely a
reception room , where custtmera rro re
ceived and their wishes made known. The
work Is done In a different part of the houvo ,
to which the custcmsr Is conducted whitn
the time for trying on arrives. Many ol
Iho besl establlshmsnls , however , usa a part
ot the reception rooms for a salesroom , where
samples of beautiful dress patterns arc chown
to the would-be customer. It Is not chorally
known , but It lo a fact , nevertheless , thai
Iheso dressmakers rocelvo from abroad , Paris
or Berlin cr cliowherc , particular dress pat
terns for which they pay the most fabulous
prices. These patterns cannot bo bought In
any storsu nor can ihey bo duplicated by
other dressmakers. Each dressmaker re
ceives separate and distinct patterns and
there Is an agreement entered Into by the
manufacturers that there shall bo no similar
deigns manufactured for sale in the open
maikct until two years after the salu to the
original purchaser. The goods having been
ordered from Franc ? or Germany , as the
casa may be , are shipped and dutley paid by
the consignor , who makes a charge fcr the
same In his bill. In the Easter season of
1891 , great havoc wcs created among the
dressmakers by ths fact that the gcodo which
were sent them by their foreign houses to
ba made up for the spring trade were held
up by the customs. ' ofllcers. The dressmakers
w-aro not In fault , but unfortunalely suffered
the penalty. The agents from the houses from
whom the gelds had been purchased had
brought the goods In very largely under
valued , and , In consequence , they were not
released until late In May too late lo beet
ot any use for the season.
Some of ths dressmakers snd represjnta-
tlves abroad every season to obtain these
choice dress patterns , while otlurs order
them by sample. ) , but In either case the re
sult Is highly satisfaclory and the dressss
cannot be duplicated in America.
FllNlllOllOtlH. .
.A fluffy fur collar makes the outlines of
the face look softer.
Big buttons and enormous plaids make
a llttla woman look smaller.
The latest caprice In a pin for a chatelaine
watcli Is a jeweled crab.
Silver mounled suspenders make admirable
Christmas gifts for men.
Dresden powder putt boxes are dainty.
Boudoir sets in this ware are pretty.
Slender crescents of diamonds or pearls
are distinctly first favorites In brooches.
Stole effects In bear , mink and sable are
stylish and make modish adjuncts to cloth
jackets.
Figured stuffs , - brocades , arabesques ,
stamped velvet and their like arc very popu
lar.
Costumes for women with tastes for out-
of-door pastimes are trimmed with chamois
skin and leather.
The short cape Is a universal favorite on
account of the ease with which It goes on
over big sleeves.
There Is a revival of guipure lace this sea
son. In the liner laces the various mem
bers ot the point family are In evidence.
Silver receptacles for vaseline botllcs are
pretty additions to toilet table appointments
and are useful as well as ornamental.
High standing collars of velvet trimmed
with applique lace or jeweled trimming ,
and wired to keep them In shape , are a
feature of many of Hie new gowns.
The Empire fan has captured popular
favor and Is classed among the especially
desirable gifts for debutantes In particular
and women In general.
Wide , gauntlet cuffs , deeply slashed and
heavily butlo-ned , are common. They have a
military aspect wholly at variance with puff
sleeves and fectlier boas.
The Brownie pin which had such a vogue"
has been supplanted by the foot ball man
It Is not a question of beauty In cither case
but a mere being off with the old love and
on with the new.
The little accessories of dress are more
tempting and varied than ever before , and
small capes , largo collars , ruff a and fichus ot
every Imaginable description are- displayed in
the stores. Then there are Innumerable little-
under bodices ot silk and chiffon , satin and
lace , which can bo worn with open-fronted
coats.
Plaids , ao cut as to run diagonally , arc
not a fad , but they hold their respectable
own as they have always done. When used
they are big with showy lines of red and
blue and green with white , and they gener
ally have a relief of darker clolli and garni
ture of fur or velvet. .
The osprey again waves over the bonnets
ot the fair , and the pompon aspires to heaven
above It. Very popular In one of the new
scoop shovel shapes Is a "combine" of osprey
and ostrich , ribbon of felt , edged with wide
velvet or with narrower ribbon , emphasized
at intervals by big silver buckles.
The newest tiling In veils Is distinctly
bizarre. II Is of bleck nel , close meehed
with flower sprays ot white applique lace ,
thrown ticro and there In careless faehlon ,
and a border ot the same lace. It Is new
and modish , but most unbecoming. The
white sprays have Iho most uncanny trick
of Invariably coming In the most undesirable
places.
A very pretty novelty for teagowns.ls vel
veteen , printed with a cashmere pattern In
colors. It Is to bo had with various colored
grounds and Is Inexpensive. Of English
make , It Is being used In quantities by the
Parisdressmakers. . Fur borders are the
only trimmings needed , though plain velvet
or Eatin may be put with It for contrast.
Skirts with exaggerated fulness are fast
; olng out of fashion , and those with seven
; ores and not more than five yards around
: he bottom are the popular cut with women
> vho dress well. The superfluous amount of
iloth which adds the extra one or two yards
nore gives a clumsy rather than a grace-
'ul effect , and It U not considered artistic ,
ind many of the new skirts measur.a only
'our ' and a half yards.
There Is a recurrent fondness for panel
eugths of figured cloth or brocade , or what
lot , set Into a plain dark skirt , sometimes
it the side , sometimes In front. This effect
s generally employed In connection with a
Ight-flttlng corselet bodice , employing the
ame figured material , Tbo sleeves can be
lark , like the gown , and they may carry
heir fulness well toward the wrUt.
The mutton-leg sleeve , quite close below
ha elboW and noticeably diminished In nlze
bove , li still the reigning favorite in chape ,
but It Is varied In to many ways by thi
trimming that there seems to be umisun
diversity In the cut of sleeve * . The cloo
coat sleeve with a short , full puff nt the toj
appears In many of ihe latest gowns , but th
present style Of Meevo Is so comfortable ths
It will require time nnd persistent effort lo
oust It from favor.
The Princess Beatrice" Is now engaged I
publishing a volume of her own inuHcal com
positions.
The woman's department of th ? Allan !
exposition Is vIMtrd dally by Ifi.OCH ) people
whs attend the women's congrespes.
Queen Amelli ot Portugal often aceom
panics her son , the young King Carlos , whet
he attends the nntlonil fnort , bull fighting.
Miss Marie Tempest Is an ndcpt at chafing
dish cookery. Her ropertolrc In the oy.ito
Una Includes serving up the bivalve In
twenty-one different styks.
MeljH Shle. which means Mary Stone , am
Ping Yung Cheng are Iwo brighl Chinos. "
girls who nro studying medicine nt the Unl
vorslty of Michigan ,
Sarah Bernhardl's latest fad Is ceramics
nnd she has mastered the nrl from the
fashioning of the clay to Iho firing In Ihc
oven with the enthusiasm of a gttl of 1C.
The empress ot China has a passion fo
Jewels. It was formerly Illegal for Chinese
women lo wear Jewels , bul the present cm
press persists In her fancy for precious
stonca
The comtesso of Paris has received Ihe
Order of Ihe Blonfalsane ? , conferred upoi
her by Iho Spanish government for her as
tilstanco to sufferers during the floods a
Vllllamaurlque.
Lady Mary Hamilton-Douglas Is only 1
years old , but she Is ono of the Rrentes
heiress In the world. She Is the daughler
ot Iho late duke of Hamilton and rccelvci
from him her large fortune , affording her
an Income of about 1900,000 a year.
The mother of the king of the Ashantees
has been enthroned as queen of thai grea
and powerful African nation. The war party
having deposed King Prempat , placed his
mother upon the throne with all hcathcnls )
pomp and teptlvlllcs.
The dowager empress of China has shown
herself favcrable loward the building by an
American syndicate of a railway from tide
water to Peking , China , a distance of 200
miles , and Is said to have used her Influence
with LI Huns Chang In regard to the matter.
Mrs. Harry K. Tetsuka , who was the first
Chicago girl lo marry a Japanese , has her
drawing rooms adorned with portieres over
200 years old. brought from old temples In
Japan. Mrs. Tctsuka uses 'the chopsticks like
a native , and Is especially fond of Japanese-
cooking.
Hachcl Elam , who lately died In Chicago ,
had lived In thai clly for over sixty years.
Fifty years ago she hod advocated the flying
of flags over school IIOUPOS ; though long after
her patriotic efforts first suggested It , yet
she lived to aeo ths stars and stripes float
ing over every school In her adopted city.
Miss Grace Sheldon , who was the only
American woman representative of the pre-sa
at the International convention In Bordeaux ,
France , states that lady Journalists who ex
pect to attend the convention at Buda-Pcst
next year should review t'aeir French , as that
Is the accepted language of thcs ? meetings.
Queen Charlotte of WurttembrTg recsntly
had a thrilling experience. While she wns
going to the theater the horses ran away ,
throwing the coachman and groom off the
box. The queen mounted the1 box , bent over
fnr > dashboard , secured the trailing lines and
pulled the horses back upon their haunches
until help arrived.
Frau Anna Souron , who was for many years
a governess In the family of Count Tolstoi ,
has now written a book contradicting Ideas
of the celebrate-d novelist and philosopher.
She states that 3ils brotherhood of mankind
was all on paper. When a serf appealed to
him it was the haughty master nnd the do-
psndent peasant.
The organization of the national council of
Jewish women Is spreading and Its president ,
Hannah G. Solomon of Chicago , has been In
vited to address ths Illinois' Federation of
Women. If over there- was any doubt of the
success of the "new woman" movement the
co-operation of Jewlfh women removes It. It
Is the Hebrew Instlncl lo make things go.
In Wyoming county , Pennsylvania , the
case ot Miss Poul Barton la attracting
greAt deal of attention. Miss Barton h.i
fallen Into sleep which , whileothorwUo
normal , has lasted for so many days as to ho
unnatural. Whtn Ml in Barton nwakca to
flnd herself famous , MIP will probsbly con- ' 1 1
elude ihst renown was never moro easily
purchased ,
In Now York City Mrs. Kv MacDonnM
V lcsh has furnished th ? citizens with an
example of the manifold activities of the
modern woman. Mrs. VaUsh Is a delegate
to a Ubor congress , a member of a labor
union , n convincing ppeaker , a iniffrAglst , a
dress reformer and a goal housekeeper.
And yel she lells her hearers , In her spMychf * ,
lhat she has had no tlmo In which to edu
calo herself , being the product of the fac
tories.
Mine. Sara Bernhardt lias broken the rec
ord for extravagance In stage dresses. Her"
Intesl addition to her theatrical nurdroba
ecu * the neat little tnun of $ ? , r 00. It Is ol
Ivory satin , decorated with diamonds and
turquoises , the train b.'lng lined with crnilno.
The skins of 200 animals were required to
line the- train , and the lurquolo band on
the skirt contains l.SOO stones , no It will bo
sm that Mine. Bernlmrdl gel her Ivory
salln gown at a comparative bargain.
Queen Victoria Is a great admirer of Calve ,
nnd his had a bunt of Iho singer executed
In marble by Countess Foadora Glelchcn
for the royal private apartments nt Wind
sor.
occasions ,
fou cannot got -
\ t fiF to 1he opero ,
wmr. . , lwiThour qw'nind
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When Grandma
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ithe buckwheat slic made
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'jiSjg-'Too often "buckwheat"
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Wright's '
BuckWheat - -
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Ask Your Grocer For It.
The Food Drink
There Is great nourishment In a single sip of
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PREPARCD OV
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