18 TJI15 O.MAI1A DAILY HIDE : SUNDAY , D13CHM.IJHR 15 , 1Sf ) " > ,
is
WOMAN'S DOMAIN. |
SKATING SI ITS.
.Simit-l ruMmnm In U'hlrli In SUItu
O > i > r llii > Iff.
N1JW YOUK , Dec. 12. When th * skating
season comes round It Is Interesting to see
lion- many stunning nnd suitable rigs have
apparently evolved tliemsclvrs out of i-pace.
Naturally each modiste or tailor has her
own opinion ? and models. One declares tint
an ordinary walking dress , made In warm
textures , cut snugly nml trimmed with fur , Is
all that Is npees nry for skating. The skirt
should perhaps" be a little shorter and nar
rower than for walking , anil a brlllljnt touch
of color. In the hat or at the throat , Is In
keeping.
If liked , Indeed , the entire costume may
I
SHALSKIN COAT AND CAP.
ho of a bright cloth , a rich red or a zouave
blue , and with these giH or black braid Is n
handsome addition to 'the ' fur.
lllack fox , sable or Persian lamb are furs
that will combine with either cloth , though
chinchilla and silver braid would perhaps be
the mote charming trimming for the zouave
blue , In tills case a muff and cap of the
chinchilla would be handsome additions , and
u scat let quill acrow the front or nt the sides
would he a gay note in the cap ,
A skating suit chown by one of our smart
est men drpssmaki-'is would be a splendid
model , where price Is not considered. This
comiliteil of an ankle-length skirt and tlght-
f.ttlng jacket , with basques that fell below
the hip , of cnrdln.il-red cloth. The trim
mings were a Eklrt panel , collar , cuffs and
pocket Haps of Oriental embroidery In black
pud gilt and black Persian lamb fur. This
edged the Jacket all round In a ntirow roll
mid frogged the front In cords that looped
over smill heads , used as buttons.
There was also a ro.l of the lamb at the
BIUE CI.OTH AND PKIISIAN LAMB.
bklrl bottom and up the shits of the em
broidered panel , which was at the- left , a'ld
u muff and boi of the ( .nine , The head
toveilng was a email toque of the red cloth ,
laid In folds , with two lamb heads and a
black paint brush algrtKte at the left fiont.
Tlila siijfrb ( M-up , together with a pair
of kulckorbacKers of black chamois , to b
worn under ilio skirt , had been designed for
a New VorK b lie of palo brunette coloring.
With nil accessories , gloves und boots ex-
ceptul , Its coit was ? 250.
A SUnumi COSTUMI3.
Another skating Milt , shown by the same
Inllor , though pluiner , wan. If any hlng , even
moro ravishing.
The material of this was broadcloth , with
the scums strapped , and u bright magenta
silk lining. The skirt wan In T gores , u lit
tle below anklo-Itriglli , and faced at the bot-
CHINCHII.I.A COST I'M i : .
torn with black leather , The but1 ons ul the
short jickft , which was loose und vlngle-
breactc.l , v.ere hidden with a IIy ttrap , and
to be woin under the jacket , .inj t ; tliov at
retting iv.omi'iits , there was OTUE double-
breasted t of luagenta cloth , that f.u'.eno'l
with polished Kilt buttons.
Tht fur advUeU for this costume waj black
Thibet goal , but au enchanting af-tkury had '
been prpiltKl tar tliu throat , T ili v > u u
scarf at leant thrc and u lulf J.T'I l > r > i ; atil
t frfri < n . " -n < Yri1Hii'aaiiii timil f fcJirT'i , ' uili
the Width of the material , of magenta chiffon.
to bo worn nt times Instead of the boa.
A hem n quarter of n yard deep finishes
the ends of the tcarf , nnd when adjusted U
wrapped twlc * nrcund the throat , the long
ends being allowed to float over Mie shoulders.
With all due respect to their majesties , the
dressmnkc.rs , It Is really rt the shops where
sporting goods arc Dold that one gets the best
hints tor skating toggery.
At these places the skating costumes shown
arc all murh on the order of wheel gowns ,
both In cut and material. Only a few are
trimmed with fur , docoratlons being In the
main strapped foams , leather bands or black
braid ,
Tl'c models comprise almost Invariably
three pieces , a skirt. Jacket and knickers , It
being generally agreed that petticoats nro
distinctly out of place on the Ice. The con
stant chipping wets the petticoat tails , and.
with these wrapping around the limbs , It Is
easy to see how hard colds and any other
calamity might follow.
A device for keeping the skirt hem dry Is
to face It with a light oiled leather or a bias
band of mackintosh rubber.
TO KI3iP WAUM AND DRY.
The skirls of the suits are longer than
those for the wheel , coming to the ankle
and often blow. The Jacket Is commonly
short , but may bs loose or tight fitting , or a
Norfolk shape.
Where much warmth lo required the coat
Is Interlined with chamois , and In every In-
I'tance tlili Is rerfornlcd , as physicians de
mand , fcr health.
The knickerbockers nre ilso sometimes
llmd with the perforated chamois , and
where the coat Is without It a. separate
chamois vest with long slesves ran bs had.
Materials most In favor are Kngllsh whip
cord , Scotch cheviots and hcmespuns , cor
duroys , serge and toboggan blanket cloth.
Thlsi Is mads with the gay herder of th < ?
blanket running around the bottom of the
skirt and at the tall of the long blouse.
which Is commonly belted with a cord and
Such a suit , topped by cne of the warm
toboggan C3\ii \ , could bo got up at homo at
small expense. Care should b > taken , how
ever , to choose a blanket of very light
weight , us they are comnmnly ro heavy as
to hamper movement. Under the blouse of
thcsd eults and other Jackets as well a
Ewonter will be found to give both ease and
warmth.
Some of the now swelters provided for
ladles of sporting tendencies art * * .ery stun
ning.
A stylish and becoming on" Is In two
shades of wool , hoiiey-combsd , and with
stripes across the bust and hips.
Theeo fasten on the left shoulder and hive
big puffed sleeves , and sometimes a small
bro.i t iwl t 'ir the handkerchief.
A moleskin Jacket Is said to be a warm
nnd dapper garment for Stating. A moleskin
Jacket shown was made much on the same
order of n man's hunting coat , with large
sleeves , of course , but with all the p-iich
pockets and heavy stitching of the manly
affair. Such a garment , however , Is hnrd to
find and even then Is only made to order.
The best bDot advised for skating Is a long
laced one , that comes half way up the leg , of
calfskin , made waterproof by oiling. This
hau besides a bellows tongue , which makes It
ubsiltitely Impossible for any tnols'urc to
reach the fpet , a very low heel and a mod
erately round toe with tip.
A foolish boot offered for dressy skaters
wis nnother long laced one rf patent leather ,
with the seams lapprd and oJges perforated.
As to skates themselves , the long , slender
racing affair of last season Is st'll seen , but
a newer ono Is uhorter and squarer and has
u sliding clamp adjustment for fastening at
the ho = l for security.
This Is cntliely of atoI and in b8t quali
ties costs $1 a pair.
Such a sknte IH much more becoming to
the foot than thosu which have a leather hsel
support and I'trap fastening.NINA
NINA FITCH.
1H2I.FT I.THMTU1U3.
*
< i nil I ll I DtlU-ll npNlitiix 1 > I ill oil oil
I'li'ilrs null TnlilfH.
The rage for delft , designs In two shades
of blue has now extended to furniture , which
nmy bo used with charming effect for fit
ting up a sunny room for a young girl's oc
cupancy or as a guest cliombT. Be very
sure , however , that the apartment selected
for this scheme of decoration has plenty
of aun&hln" , = lnce these blues against n
white background produce a v-ry cool effect.
The articles are a table , s'ool and
tcreen ; similar decoration could be ap
plied to the head and footboards of
a bedstead , the top of a bureau , etc. ;
or , still better , would bo for the latter and
the washstand , linen scarfa cmbroldere.1 In
delft landscapes , with th ? two shades of
blue.
blue.The
The fuinlture is first painted In white oil
color , to term the background In which th. '
llttls laudscnpe-i of windmills , water , boats ,
etc. , are executed , the edges b'lng finished
with the design of oval and round patterns
given , done In dark blue. This appears In
the legs ot the stool und tabU , the edges of
the shelves , etc.
Tlis dimensions for th ? articles of furniture
are ns fellows' The screen , whose two
halves are united by hinges , Is forty-five
Inches ; each of the frames twenty Incheo In
width , with strong square moldings one
Inch oroad. Have the uppr parts filled with
a thin panel of wood eighteen and ono-hnlf
inches wide , and the lower strip of molding
three Inches from the floor. The little stool ,
whose triangular tcp measures fourteen and
ono-liulf Inches along each edge , has thrio
legs , each fifteen ami one-half Inches long ,
fastened by cress pieces nlii3 and throe-fifthn
Inches long and Hires-fifths of un Inch wide.
The tcp of the table Is seventeen Inches
sqimio , the height twenty-five Inches. Two
of the four triangular shelves , half an Inch
thick , and nine and one-fifth Inches by nix
nnd one-half Inches on the s'des , are placed
opposlto each other , the first oet three and
thrcc-fif ho Inches by ono Inch below tha
pieces mippjrtlnc the tcp of the table , the
s.cond c iht ; Inches below.
The lower panel tf the screen Is to bo
flllol with llk , cretonne or any pretty ma
terial In plain pale blue or figured blus nnd
white , either smooth or gathered , as Indi
vidual tuHto may dic'atc.
mi i\.s I.N wnmiiMi uo\v. ; s.
Tlic > 11 ll l.o n I'rrt'loilN Iill of Dlf-
IVrrnc'f lo CiTlnln llrlilcs ,
Fashion , that Inexorable "Sho who must
bo obsyed , " has one foe whom she has never
wholly conquered In the matter of wedding
dresses.
It la custom that brings superstition as
an nlly even Into this end ot the eanltiry.
How Krong IK the sway of ihU power behind
the throne Is cvldonesd by tliu consternation
which a little bit of slnlstur green adornment
wrought In n nuptial celebration at Onconta ,
lolates the Now York Herald. While the
piospectlve bride , with the off-liand calmness
and deliberation which are supposed to stamp
the woman of the period , was waiting for
thp minister to find his place in the marriage
e rvlci ? , shu picked up a nmvdpapsr nnd
glanced through Itn columns , jiu > t to put the
remainder of the intpmted persons at ihclr
ease ,
Her eyes instinctively found a paragraph
In a collection of superstition * which an
nounced that "a bride should never b ; mar-
ileil In colors If she wishes to be happy. The
most unfortunate colors are yellow and
green. " A * die looked down and Saw nome
green trimmings on her wedding gown nho
i 'fused to allow the ceremony to proceed ,
ami was so obdurate to persuasion that she
chose to liavo the engagement cnncell'il
rather than luivo the marriage service read
under such luausplcloua circumstances ,
The children or UK rural districts learn In
their fnrllest play. In the game tong which
rehearses the quandary about tin wedding
dress of "Mlus Jemilo I. Jcncj , " that
"green means forsaken , and that \\lll never
do , " and that "white IH to marry IH , "
In all ages and among all civilized pcopl ;
white has bt > en chosen for the duns of the
brldu If she Is a ilrl , but tn il-ff-rent toctlony
of the country a particular rlgulilcanco Is
attached lo various bits of color tn the way
of neceubcrles. Th * nundate that a bride
must wear "something old and something
now. somethlnt ; harrowed and something
blue , " Is so iMiornlly recognized that the
efforts to comply with It often coat much
mcra concern and mnnlpuUIIon than plans
for evading the vxlng word "obey , "
That fortuua'e dims.I who Inherits a lace
veil whle'i hag been paused along the line
of h-r gri' 1'rotliors ' luis no < roubli In ful-
nillin ; the DM condition. She fluds It harJer
to wciAe In the eobr which stands for
loy.ilt } . It frequently does service In the
way of n tiny blur bow , which Is tied same-
where out of sight for the tlmo b. lng.
It Is told cf one fashionable bride of Inst
season that ehc Insisted nt the last mfnme
upon regarding th ? old ww , but as no pro
vision Imd been made by her maids for such
observance , there was nothlnR of the re
quired color to be seni except a blue silk
bed cover and a portiere , ne-lther of which
was ndr.ptnble. At last a little nlfcJ of the
hrldo cc.iH.ributcd a turquoise ring , which
was fastened Inside the corsage , and so ful
filled the demand for "som thinff borrowed
and something blus" at the same time.
.Many young women have their wedding
gowns made of bluei where * the ceremony Is
less formal. Brown nnd gtny arc nlso often
upjd , but no matter how popular or how be
coming , pink or any shade cf red Is usually
'nboocd. It Id singular that red I ? usually
shunned for n bridal dress , even among the
Italians , who are ordinarily BO fond of Its
warm hurs , nnd who do not hesitate to use
other colors which are just ns vlvlJ.
Orccn nnd yellow are both commonly p en
In an Italian brldo's dress , nnd the purple *
of Tyre end Parma are especially popular fjr
that purpose. The Itusslan Jews cf the east
sdo ! are particularly faithful to the old cus
tom of tobing the brldo In the color flgalfy-
Ing InnmencL . The greatest care lt > tak-n to
ir s
§ 54 &ntHlihW\\ , \ $
t
i *
i IM Vlii h MI'A ' , i
FOR COUNTRY WEAR.
exclude all color from the bride's apparel ,
even to the little bits of Jewelry about lur
person.
The rings nro tak = n out cf her ears and
buds from the bridal wreath suspended In
thorn by msJno of white threid. Less con
servative brides have used sliver wlras to
fasten the buds to the eart ) , but these are1 re.-
garded us a violation of the custom prohibit
ing colors or jewels' . The green leaves of the
wreath glvo the * cnly tint cf color to the outfit ,
and In that connection are regarded 33 a
nrcosjary accessory signifying hope fcr the
future.
The old superstition which makes It un
lucky for a fcrldo to use In her wedding at
tire nny pins which have done duty in any
similar clllco U' found to xUt In other na
tionalities than American.
SOMi : CISTISMIM'KUS. .
Kootti 1111' Ailomcil rvltli DlnmonilN
\VorHi ! ( ) . ( ) ( > .
"It would surprise most people , " eald a
West End bootmaker to the New Yo-k Jew
elers' Review , to know cf the hune sum'
which some of the rich aristocracy spend on
uhces , and especially on slippers. Only th
other clay a countess , whose name Is familiar
to every one , had a pair of bllppcrs made
which were decorated in a plctui pa tern ,
like a pair ot worked sllppsrs , with precious
stones , thcbe being largely rubles , cmcrilds ,
and cllamondt1. The result was exceedingly
iHautlful , but the cost was over 4GOO.
"There Is one accomplished workman In
London whose sole occupation Is that cf
mounting fancy slippers with Jewels. The
present dowager countess of X some years
ago had made her husband was then alive
and gave th ? order a pair of clippers , in
which she wato appear us Cinderella at a
fancy dresii ball , given by .ho duke of Man
chester. The slippers were cne mass of diamonds
mends , thii value of the stones Inlng con
siderably over 12,000 , while the cost of
mounting them was upward of 150.
"A South Amerlcin antic-man not long
rlncs prKuntcil to a forulnn singer , then in
Louden , a pair of slippers ornamented with
two butterflies of different pat erna In pr-
ciwis t'toncs ' , th : cost being nearly 4,000.
Rut , -reality , It Is qultp c common thing
tor fcllpperH crnamEnted In gold threads and
Jewels , and value-d nt from onto a thousand
nulneaR , to be supplied ; and many brides on
tliolr honeymoons are furnished with even
ordinary boo't' , shofs and slippery to the
value of 200 or so. "
CIIKIST.MA.S
'
Tin * Illvnii I'lllo * , . AI\M : > N n Crnd-fii )
lli'iiii-inl > raiicf ,
The charm of the divan pillow as a Christ
mas gift la that whether you buy It , or make
It yourself , whether It Is costly or elmple , It
Is cure tn.flml n worm welcome und a hungry
nook , where Ita presence will be always
gratefully remembered.
Women who plan to make pillows fcr holi
day distribution should know In time tlut , tie
matter how many ticks the feather stulllnf
Is enclosed In end no matter how c\os. \
woven Is the outer covering , down from
barn yard fow'ls or elder ducks , will even
tually work through unless tbo proper pre
cautions nre taken.
An ex ] > ert pillow maker tayu that In the
factories they hold the feathers In check by
Ironing out , what will 1)3 the Inside of tlic
twilled cotton tick , with beeswax. On a hot
flatlron the wax Is rubbed and tlilu spreads
a thin coating , unpenetrable by feathra , all
over the goods. A thin white cotton blip la
Invailably put over the coarse ticking ami
then tlio pillow IB ready fcr as elegant or as
flmplo dressing as one- can afford.
A great many of the novelty holiday pil
lows are cut three cornered , covered with In-
. * tpenslve pale yellow chamois skins , the very
kind used by housskocpera for window and
mirror polishing. In heavy crochet silk the
tl.ice Initials of the prospective owner's name
embroidered In the thr-e corn rs , and In
stead cf cording the edges they are carrfully
whipped over with the heaviest sewing silk
twlet to b ? had , and huge ponpony of satin
rlkbon ti t on s a flnlih at the three points.
A ch&rm'ng re.v p { low for a woman's divan
1s covered with havy whits Irish linen ,
frilled with Limerick lace and powdered with
blue embroidered stan about tall white gothlc
Initial inters. A beautiful blown etailn pll-
low Is brocaded with big r-d poppica , while
arrots cne corner ruin the Irgend quoted from
Kugcne Field's poem , "And each hath a
drem that Is tiny and fleet. "
The- quotation pillow rather usurps Hie chair
nooku and divan ends and now pretty thing. '
from Shelly , Shalt epeare , Coleridge , 1C-.ais
aud other poets will be mU with In ev.ry
sofa corner cltcr the holidays. A very c-
nomlcal and attractive way cf doing nn ofleci i
tlve pillow case Is to buy and cover the '
cushion with ome biiovvy mllii brocad d In
largo flguren of a contrasttug color. Then
outline every tendril and flower In the bro
cading with Japan ? * ; gold thr ad , This
come * nt 23 cent * per keln and Is easily put >
en AVIlh n llttlg fln * brocaJIng bullion thread
dnsh a few KRntf < of silver In the center of
every flowerAndi ths effect alonf , as one
woman conclu3r.l iiRhtly. Is worth J50.
Of course yon can actually liy out * 50 on
a divan pillow INj/ou like , nnl the lunds m st
and nnr' cosily . , < -f tfcm ; are covered with
embroidered slip * done by Armenian women
As nedlo wojimnjthcs' pers cuted creatures
nre only ouWqne , by the Husslm nun and
.their work , In g. d and sliver embossing on
sitln , lit equal lo thttes4 Japanese or Chinese
embroidery. ( Thli | la an oJd fact that slnco
the mnssacroa bJjvo be n so frequent and
terrible thes6'htilUblo women have piled their
net-dies ns Us'iisi' ' srrendlng rich vines and
flower sprays over silk and satin , but nlwa >
i'.cretly wrklnR'lnmld ' 'tho delicate le.ncs ,
blossoms nnd temlrlK signs and letters , that
when put together and spelled out are prfl > ers
for deliverance , exclamations ot grief nml
despair , words of consolation nnd proverbs
counseling resignation.
Rut the newest pillow of Ih'ni nil b < - It
square , three-cornered or round , Is made of
rubber , covered ns elegantly or pimply as you
pleiso flnd blown up with air. It Is cont'ld-
prod n wiseprovls'.cn to distribute thr or
four of those In every well cushioned sofa
corner , and their cavers are usually mad ?
of striped brocaded Louis XVI. satin , with
queer little dangles at evrry corner.
sun iiAir'niiArnrl i , KIKT.
ll ( > c < liii < 4 ( > IUr I'nronlH AVorcHI ! *
r.itnuKli to ! , < < Tin-in Croiv.
" \Vhnt n dear little foot ! " remarked a
womin of the w.orld. ndmlMng the tiny foot
cf n little 2-year-cld. "Now , you must al
ways kep her shoes n little snug nnd sho'll
have pretty teH when she's ( , rown. " "N'ot
! -t all , " said. papa , with emphasis , happily
moro sensible. "We'll let her fol devilop
precisely nu 'ho Lord lutrmled , nrd perhaps
when she'o n woman it may be prstty , after
all. " i
So this wise father , rclafs the New York
Tribune , sought out the trst bootmaker in
the city , a lilgh-nlc-J peraon , as befitted one
who put good ; material into good shape and
charged a good .sum for his In elllgent work
manship. Thebootmaker was commlsjloned
to inak Miss Uaby's n'.ioea from the 111020-
urrmsnts of her own dlmj/ed feet Instead of
the hit or miss rady-made : fit which is gen
erally the fate of infancy.
Year by year as the little fce-t changed In
slz ? and shape , the bootmaker's measure
ments altered to suit tl.olr Individuality.
\VlnU1" rnd tumrner the walking bMts were
of calfskin , laced to keep the- ankle ? slim ,
pliable for ccmfcrt , yet otrong enough to
support the soft bones nnd prevent In nftfr
years that unsightly bulge near tlu Instep
which ruins many n slippered foot after party
days arrlvf.
\iiltM.
Brocaded s'.lks In dark colors ars made
up Into afternoon gowns for street wear.
Fancy crspes con'lnue to be nil the rage.
The latest Is an airy nothing of lace , span
gled with mock Jewels.
Narrow mink anJ sable edgings are ap
plied to I > 3dlc3 trimmings of velvet , silk ,
satin , chiffon and ev.u lacs.
Novelty crepes come In strange * conglom
erations of cciored harmonics and are made
up with fancy ttlko or velvets.
Violets or half-op n roses are set among
th ° lace chcux and rosettes on new de p
collarettes and fichus fcr full dress wear.
The ncwet1' cap = s are cut pointed In front ,
with long stole ends and short on the shoul-
(1 ( rs , and are suggestlvo cf the Marie An
toinette style.
Brccjics and taffetas are more fashionable
than ever. The new taffetas are shot In EW-
cial colors , producing a mcst exqulslt ?
effect.
Ivory , er.am and mow-whits silks and
sntlns are more fash'onable than evr. Some
cf thrse- goods are very lustrous. oth'is > are
blue-white.
There Is a change In the construction of
fclecvE ! ? , although it Is not y.t sulilclcntly
prcnounced to make Itself apparent to the
gen jrnl eyo.
Kill glovc v/lthout any scam on the out-
bide of the haul are ons or th novcltl s
this asascn , and another sensible glove ct
kill , lined with filk to nuke It warm , is well
recommended.
One of the useful makefh'fts of fashion
Is n whl- collar and rovers of sutln , ern-
bioilere-l ! all over with Jet , which can be
worn with nny evening drfss.
The- velvet bodlc--s made In desp rich
fhad't * , which are now FO fashionable , are
lined with very soft flann 1 or woin over
chamois waists , beciise they arc not de-
ilgned to be used with wraps ,
A now theater and canlago cloak Is mode
f fawn and pink brocaded wcol In n fult-
Knith simp ? , with a loot" doiihlo-br'asted
front fasterlij 1wlth Inige me'all'c buttons
'n the same shttde-j as the clonk.
Capes arq phupo.l to show the ontllno of
the ahoulder , wilch | It1 not completely dls-
gulsrd by lluffy fillls ; and short capes for
tvnlng are 1110,40 , of white velvet patterned
all over with , stiat'.ovvy roses.
Klowere ar.a much used for decorating ball
dresses thlmeeaion , and La Franco roses
with gro n vrhot foliage are very effective
on tli ? waUt 'ot a pink bilk gown , whllo lilies
of the valley urj the proper thing on pale
green.
Moreen petticoats csv-red with silk ars
worn to matfe-'th- ilresb-sklrt stsnd out and
au a eubstltuto for the haircloth tnt-rllnlng ,
which Is a thlng-pf the past. Silk petticoats
should haiinblilzd In color with the llk lin
ing In the drm. ,
Dark red gloves for walking and shopping
have given 4vV > C9 > to tuns anil quieter tones ,
Hroail atltclilng is nlio out of ilnte. To be
correct , ono .must wear glace Id.is with
tailor-made coAtumei1 ; Eucdo with anything
Jesi ssvere.
The Parisians have a new fancy , and ono
'which may save pockctlssa women from In.
sanity , With some of tliu rlbbon-wrcatli d
hats come collar bands to match , nnd a lug
of the ribbon , Intended to be carried on the
arm , nfter th ? manner of the old-fashioned
reticule ,
Fur trimmings , from ono to tlirae Inches
wide , are mora In demand than over , and
they are In comb'nitlon with lacs chiffon and
dainty embroideries on the moM dressy
gown- ' . Steely ccllam , revcrs. ultlo belts and
bretelles of fur are keen In the cloth gawns ,
and aii cn'lre koJIc"1 cf fur Is not unusual ,
Women who lln-1 Ilirn collar a chafe' arid
Irritate t'ao bkln of iVlr n' ks are now wearIng -
Ing with tha N'rfolk Jackets and opzii colUrz
of the'r p'rti cjtu'n-s the white plqus
Blocks , The i > Kr rr n thins more nor
less th&ni' t , M I " ; four-ln-lund , which
\f \ put twlc * around th * neck bffore- bring
tied.
Optls arc the most Intereptlng of gems ,
nnd rc In great demand They > th' most
beautiful of gems , varying In Irtdescenc ? not
only with the temperature , but the mood of
the wearer. The Hindoo bellev s ojuls change
with sorrow and Joy , find that th y are the
children of the nunbeam and the moonbeam.
Muffs of velvet to match the hat nro very
fashionable- with nny costume , nnd they nre
mnJe round or flat , ny you choose , but quite
i large. The flat ones , with wldo drooping
1 ruflles of velvet at either end. are- the prrt-
, tlfst ; others nro shaped Ilk * n butterfly , with
I ft fur body nnd Inrge wings of velvet bows ,
nnd Inrgo , civet popples or orchids which
hnrmonlzo In color nre used for decorn'lon.
Uayly color-d and decorated round hnt !
are sold In Immense numbers. Ono Imported
model lt < quieter In effect than by description
It would be possible to suppose. The slupe
Is largo , nnd the full , soft crown of orange
velvet Is surrounded by a flat , wldo brim ,
over which black silk velvet Is smoothly
drawn. A gath ° rel frill ot spxngled black
chiffon encircles ths crown , the remaining
dimming consisting ot full black ostrich
tips.
Marie Antoinette fichus give a quaint touch
to many of the now evening gown ? . In
uhapo they nre like a tlirce-corncrsd shawl ,
one end being fastened to the bodice at the
waist line In the back , while the other two.
afor bsliii ; drawn over the shoulders , are
crossed over the corsage In Qmkcr-llke
simplicity , or ar : merely drawn over the
front of the boJIcc at enoh t'ldc , then fas
tened nt the' vi all t line , nnd the ends allowed
to hang over the iftlr' .
Rovtrs of many of the new waists nre not
only bound with braid , but almost entirely
covercl with n braided design , while basques
nro elaborately braided , nnj sleeves' receive
their share of thlo trimming. Black and
narrow gold bialds ar3 wrought together In
effective design , aud silver braid Is also nscl
In combination wlih black to good advantage ,
while braided designs I'howlrg two different
colors nre one of the. novelties of the season
not to bo Ignored
Feminine Xolcn.
Kraulcln Marie Schwartze 's the fl-st woman
who. has ever bon appointed director cf a
girl's public school tn Vienna.
Mrs. John Stetson of Doston Is one of the
most enthusiastic nnd. perhaps , one of trie
bsst horsewomen In this country.
Queen Marghsrlla of Italy Is soon to ap
pear as an nuthor In a book describing her
experiences as nn Alpine climber ,
Mrs. J. K. Harney has been lecturing
throughout Khcde- Island , detailing her ex
perience In prlwns , asylums and workhouses ? .
Miss II. P. Ryder , wlio Is perlnps the most
accomplished knitter In the world , Is bring
ing out a stocking map which will soon be
published.
Miss Cnrolyn II. Whlttloscy of Cleveland
Is one of the mos.t noted lady artists on this
continent. She studied many years. In Spain
nnd In Holland.
Mine. Alexandrine JCola , the wife of thj
cslebrated French novelist. Is now In Rome ,
and has been assisting her husband In finish
ing his new novel , "Rome "
Mia. Ollphant's handsomely Illustrated
oJitlon of "The Makers ] of Molern Rome"
has now been announced , and is a companion
lo her "Makers of I-'lorsnc" . "
Ono of the lenllng socialist In New York ,
a young woman , who rtovotca her entire time
to the work of socialism , Is a nlecj of Charles
A. D.ina , the veteran journalist.
President and Mrs. Cleveland have appre-
c'-Ued the talent of the English uctrsss , MUs
Olga Nethercole , and utter a visit to the
play entertained the young lady at the white
house.
Mrs. F. M. Clendennin , formerly Miss
GobrlcllS Grceley , li to undertake a new
and authoritative llfo of her father. She
hm long bten collecting correspondence and
other matter to tbl ? end.
Miss Isabel Violet Ilurges has recently won
the queen's scholarship at the queen's noted
school in Chester , Eng. This scholarship
wao founded at the time of her majesty's
Jubilee , and It Is a great mails of distinc
tion.
Queen Victoria has developed such a strcng
aversion to tobacco that strict orders have
been Issued prohibiting smoking at Windsor
castle , at Balmoral , and at Osborne. Form
erly the queen enjoyed the odor of a cigar.
Mrs. Charles S. Browne cf the Shlnnscock
Hills ( New York ) Women's Golf association ,
has recently won the women's gold cham
pionship of the United StatesA handsome
silver pitcher was her prize. Other ladles
won gold and silver medals.
Mrs. Jemile C. Croly , president of the New-
York Federated clubs , and Mrs. Cralgle ,
"John Oliver Hcbbf. " were present at the
recent meeting of Sorosls , and assisted In
the piogram concerning "Travel , as a Means ?
of ? Education , "
The bright Rob Roy plaid ginghams are
being used In a new way by the conomlcal
woman. She covers her divin pillows with
gingham Instead of silk. The pillow cover
is made with a deep frill , and looks remarka
bly pretty.
Miss Wrede is the Elizabeth Fry o ! Finland.
For the past twelve years she has visited
every prison and every prisoner In Finland
at least once n year , many of the most hard
ened criminals having been reclaimed to use
ful lives through her efforts.
Mrs. Amelia Wortle of Rockland , Mo. ,
rec ntly astonished the port physician by
applying for ths med'cal ' service to which
spllors arc entltl.d. She received It when
she proved that for ten years sh.hab been
going to sea as st waid cf th > schooner
Mayltowcr , of which her husband Is the
captain.
Sarah Hernhardt Is through In Spain. At
her last performance the queen regent sent
her n hanilyom ? box of Renaissance style
holding a rare Jewel set In diamonds nnd
rubies. It w-is stnt to her just as she
finished ono ot those famous scenes of hors
where all hold vlrlr bieath and wait for
the great actiess lo sway them on1 moment
mrrc.
Mlsa Maiy II. Klng.-ley , who Is now ex
ploring on the west coast of Africa , Is a
daughter of the late- Canon Charles KInss-
Ity , the famous novelist nml preacher. She
has nm'Jo n valuable na'ural ' history cell c-
t'on for Dr. Ounther cf lha British musEiim.
S'.ie saya she has met with the utmost klnd-
irss from olllc'als and otheis ofill nation
alities.
Mlsa Helen A. Whllller has for some years
l-een proprietor and active manag-r of a
large cotton mill nt Lowell , Mass. She Is
building n new mill at the MU h and In
tends that the product cf her iith rn mill
slmll be the1 coarser and cheaper fabrics ,
which can be made there to good advantage ,
with Inferior help , while the head looms In
Massachusetts are exclusively occupied with
the- liner grades of manufaclni" .
The queen of lUly Is now t'tuiylng the
lUbrow language and Htornuirj with dili
gence , and Is making great progrezs. Lately ,
when In Venice , she r celvcd In audience
Rabbi Caen Porto , with whom hho convened
In the * ancient language cf ths Jews. Tne
queen of Portugal Is at prevent devoting all
htr spare tlm to the study cf medicine ,
which ( science shi > la working at In In a
very thorough manner. In the hope that
her example will bo followed by the some
what Indolent Portuguese ladles , and that
they will 1 > ? bpumd on to take an Interest
In the great questions and movements ot the
day.
Carolina AVIllard Baldwin , agol 25
years , has received Iho degree of doctor
of science from Cornell university. Thlo Is
a distinction bestow d only for orlg'nil ' work.
She Is of New England pircnUgc , a natlvo
of San Francisco , a resident of Santa Cruz ,
anil a graduate of the California State un'-
vcrslty , where she was the llrst woman to
rtc'ive the degr o of bachelor of science In
the college ot mechanic : . ! . She Is at the head
of the oclence department cf the California
Sshool of Meclianlc.il Arts , and superin
tends laboratory and chop-work. Sh.la also
a clever machinist.
Kri'im Tali on Your I'nrxc ,
The newest thing In the way of ln\entlon ,
says the New York Herald , H the pocket
each register. It Id a llttlo tin affair , manu
factured after the style of a watca. Its face
iepresents $1. Whenever fou spend 0 , 10 or
DO cents as the ca e may be you alrnply
preu a button attached to the uffalr and
it register * the expenditure , It adds each
time you regUter and whenever you care
to see "how you stand with yourself. " you
can readily do ro.
The register Is a novelty and a neat on ?
but I fear It will never come In popular favor.
For Instance , I bought one the other day and
when I pullet ] It cut to register an expondl.
( uro of D wilts a friend wished to see It.
"Jujt how the worked"
to see thing ho
reglntered 5 cent a and then I bad to spend
that much.
< ( > M ii.\MTU : . " ,
A 17-year-old huslnnd was divorced from
n 10-yp r-old wlfo In San Francisco the other
day , The hu b id was a messenger boy.
The feud among the Vanderbllls has at-
tnlncd so bitter n stage that the Corn llus
Vanderbllts will have their daughter's wedding -
ding strictly private ami unostentatious ,
simply to be different from the Willie K.
Vnndftbllts. Therefore , young Mi s Her-
trudci will be married only In th ? presence
of her Immediatefamily. . W. K.
will be Invited , his wife , never.
It Is n curlrim fact , noted by ths New York
Sun , that dancing nnd lov-nnklng scMom gj
hrnd In hand. Iletwcn Chrlstnns nml
Ulster there arc few marriages and few.r
engagements. In the early autumn , after th
Rtitrmer wnr.derlngy , nnd tlun ngaln when
Kaster dissipate : ! th" gloom of Lent , young
tmn'H fancies turn most readily to thoughts
of love. In the winter time , a Imllrocm
Illrtntlon Is nil there * IH time to think of ,
nml as. In rplto of this closing century's
advanced views , woin n must still wait to be
chosen , but few engagements may be expected
the next three months.
Mayme Pence nnd Frank Stanley ot Ander
son , 1ml. , ar ; nbout to be married , putting
an end to a romance tn which blocdhounda
nnd nil kinds of stage effects hnve played
n part. Stanley , during the time he linn been
paying nttcntlons to the young lady , wns con-
ftantly harassed by hi ? rivals , who stole
his horse nnd buggy en sev-ral occasion ! ? ,
necessitating htm to swim the river going
hcmm They assaulted him , nnd as n last
re ort they cut off and rtole Mayme's golden
trrases one night while she was asl op.
Bloodhounds wore engaged tn what followed
and two d'imnge suits nml half a doxen
other lltlgnllnns lw.o followed. The hall-
was never found.
New Yorkers are telling on- another of a
good Joke en Rev. John Wesley Brown , rec
tor of St. Thomas' church , previously rector
cf St. Paul's of Chicago. Ills part In the
ceremonial of the Pagt't-Whltney wedding waste
to rfnd the service. Klthcr he Ind marked
tha wrong place In the prayer book or the
singing illsccnccrtoil him ; at nny rate ihc
wedding party wau nmnzed to hear his rich ,
full voice- utter the words : " 1 out the resur
rection and th lh . " "Heavens and oirth ! "
ejaculated Bishop Potter In n whisper behind
him. The rector at once nwoko tothe fact
thnt ha was rending the burial service , nnd ,
after on ? brnthleia second he proceeded with
the proper ritual.
Some thrM months ngo a 70-year-old groom ,
who was making his third debut Into matri
mony In Milwaukee , handed the minister a
? 20 bill. Great wns the rejoicing In the min
ister's household , and the rejoicing did not
cease till u fzw days ago , Then the minister
received a letter from the venerable groom to
the effect that In the excitement attendant on
a third mairlage he had mistaken $20 for $5 ,
and now resp-sctfully reqtiesled the return of
the $ (5 chang . Ths obliging preacher mailed
the change nt once. Along with the receipt
for this came a ncte saying thnt the knot
which had be-2ii tied had not been productive
of unalloyed bliss tn fact , th re was more
alloy than bliss and the old genlloman
thought it only fair that be should receive
Iho In'crcst on his $15 for the three months
the minister had It.
I'Viit of \Vlrc-\Vouml ( inn.
"That's n big piece , " said the- old mnii In
military trousers and a sweater , who was *
superintending the transfer of n great ten-
inch gun from the wharf to Fort Hamilton ,
says the New York Sun. "But th > world
has never known what was accomplished
with the Andrews wire-wound gun. When j
wo went down to prove the gun wo all |
thought It wculd be n failure. We- set the '
target , n ten-Inch nick 1 steel plate , n mile t
frun the'gun. The mlsflle tmushsd the ] , I ite ,
w nt through twelve feet of solid pine lum
ber behind It , then through seventeen r et
of sand bank , then traveled three miles down ,
the shore , rlcochetted on a clllf , went nl\ I
miles out to sea on an angle , cut th ? hot- |
torn out of a big three-mauled schooner , and
sank her where she lay. The newspapers ,
of course , obtained the fact that the rchconer
was sunk , but , say , we conceal d from the
press the real pcrformancR of the gun. It
was too big a thing to let out. "
to the opercs
ithout'9cNinin §
\vhiff of
THE rASHIOMAQLE PERFUMC.
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For scvle by druocjiora only.
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MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO..AGENTS
ALSO TRY A/YEDDIMG / DELL5\ \ Two new
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beautifully colored illustrations
and a wealth of reading mat
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1 member of each and every
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"COMFORT. "
i Over one million of America's
i doors open joyfully each month
1 to this marvel of Magazines.
"COMFORT"
| is a veritable ray of Typographic - '
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Copies to verify the above i
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When Grandmn
Was Young
s buckwheat slit * mn.de
" * * -k'cakcs of was buckwheat ,
often "buckwheat"
isn't buckwheat now-a-thiys.
is Grandma's kind ,
honest , unadulterated
Ask Your Grocer For It.
Increased Weight.
You will become heavy and healthy with thQ , help of
.
TRAOB MARK.
the food drink. Bytak-
hi a bottle a day you will
gain from 2 to 5 pounds a
week. It contains the nour
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mothers , consumptives and
sufferers from wasting dis
eases.
To beu if at uH Druggists' and Grocers' .
Pieparcd liy
ANHEUSER-BUSCH BREWING ASS'N ,
St. Louis , U. S. A.
Send /mndsoMcly ilh'stratcd colored
bcuklcts unit other reading matter.
FINAL TRIUMPH. The Supreme Court
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Anhetisei-Utibdi Brewing Ass'n , the disputed
Highest Score of Award with Medal and
Diploma of the World's Columbian Exposi
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( a
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