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10 TIlEOJfAtIA - - \ DAII..IY : 1jX'ms' SUNDA , oC rO.mR la , . 1sn u.
t _ P _ 'c r _ st '
! WOMAN'S ' IO1d1AI1 I
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, . 9TI'LT74 ! - IN I"n ' : ;
} , A 1''rfl'lt ! SI'e thl 11)'lute of n
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, : N61tV YOm , Oct. ID-Although Ilrosmak-
; , era claim that sleeves are Rrowlng smaller , It
' , er is only at their lower portons that the
I
t
, ' . ' change Is 1f yet vlslhle to the naked eye
Then tht newel alcoves , those with an upper -
per pur and a long cuR that reaches shove
tie elbow , f the arm more snugly than
formerly , In exaggerated Instances , even too
) snugly for comfort , but the tops of sleo\'e
are as big as ever , and theta Is a return to
the strened materials for holding them out ,
erectl at mod of them Inclning to 1 broad ,
square look
. The old drooping leg 0' mutton In one piece
, " will continue to be worn , however , and 1
molsb look Is given to those by fting the
forearm part a tightly al comfort will al -
i I low , and to accomplsh this an outside seam
! " , Is oren added
The newest glgots have this seam InvarIably -
t ably , ant ] just shove the elbow the surplus
fullness of the top Is laid In heavy pleats ,
whl8h creates at the sIdes the IUstnct effect
t at a puR .
, . ENOIMQUS PUFFS ,
' Indeed , these pur sleeves may be sid to
ba the stars of the 'eason , and a pain re-
" mark11 wih the mast elegant motels was
that T.hether slmuleted or not the pur was
\ pieced como inches above the elbow At the
, shoulder thll droops becomingly / , but the
; lower line encircles the arm with unbroken
w Ivonness , and where the arm 19 thin or
> badly modeled the forearm section needs to
s . bo discreetly padded.
: Cotton batting made thlrn 1 'by splting
, + : Is ued tor this
1 To promote the droop at 'he shoulders
the puU Is often ehlrred at , the top one
Inch or more below the armhole scam ; this ,
or canto ether dovlco lor holding the shevo
( \own \ at this paint Is especially necessary
tor heavy wool text1lc . Where this sleeve !
I Ile or velvet ! I Is , often shaped at the
, : : wrIst Into two deep points , which map be
; - Imple , fancy or else Inclose a tal"of rIch
'c taco
' Others of a lke cut tor street wear , of
t grepon , serge or any of the boucle wools so
, t much worn have the wrists long and cut
} r strahht and are' soneUm : made so snug at
, ' this point that they need to bo closed with
tiuttons , .
tw _ COAT AND JACI . T SLEEVES .
The Md-fahloned bishop sleeve , revIved In
the summer , Is a prime favorite for the ever I
convonlent silk hlouso They are also seen
In many of the new I " rench coats and ulsters ,
with the wMo band cuR In soma rIch con-
trsting velvet or fur , but though this Is by
tar the more elegant model at the two , a moro
popular jacleet sleeve Is a great ugly mutton
leg , called a melon sleeve , because the upper
sldo 1 In several lengthwls gores
'Those are so slope at the top that the
sleeve enters the armhole \vlhout tallness ,
the big gigot bulge shaping out below.
The length wi so seams are either double-
stitched or piped , wih the soma cloth as the
coat , or else with sotto or elvet
A profess and \ tartahtc d corton at lace
Wad ribbon Is a feature of ninny at the new
evening sleeves , ,
Flower arc also sometimes used , espec-
lally for diaphanous textiles . small ones being -
ing l woven Into garlands which may festoon
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. AN ELEGANT RACK EI"FECT.
the whole sleeve. Again . In tiny beaches ,
they may loop up the aIry texture all over
An adorable model made In this way was
.
nn oval puI thrce - quarter length of rot
ohlfon eve whlo ; from top to bottom the
chifon was caught up In ! lte cascades and
fastened by knots of tuchlas In shading redo
- The bodLe that went with these sleeves
waa white satin , anl against thIs severity
the rosy bells looked like great bouquets.
For 'al wear the beautul brocades that
1lato those of the Lade : { VI . period have
often the sleeve shape a large short puf that
Ate thl arm squarely , though the closely
fitting Marie Antolnetto model , that reaches
to the elbow , Is ! lkewise seen. Thl lat
has only a lace flounce at the elbow , but the I
' 1II admits of varied decorations Ono model !
of exceeding efectveness and distncton had !
a scarf of mIsty lace drawn at the outside I
.froin the bottom to the shoulder , where It' '
Ued ln a , great butterfly bow.nother but-
trly gRept was made by sqltLg the bro-
coda PII len"thwtse from top to bottom and
shirring each side to form a fri ,
_ JJTTO ) S AND AOR'S
A contrasting tnt may face these , and
bulging from the ripenatg : there will bl doubled -
led ' trills of chilon that gradually wldcn until
'a't the shoulder they are shaped Into a bow
that Is a fair Imiaton ot butterfly wings.
'Other pul eloeves of evening brocade have
sometmes a great jeweled button catching
down the fulnes at a central point , and one
novel ono has only its curious shaping by
way of ornament . This leaf ( s also a wing
.
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: ' GItACEFUIr JOUSF OOlVA'
, '
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, sleeve ; and I' ' ' I a pure that reaches just
nbuve tbe elbms . The wing leak Is lad fly
having all the tidiness . top and bathun . at
: the back at the arm and catching I up at
t " two points half way down , which gives It a
I fying look
I WeU may tha pool now compare his lady
: to an angel ]
I of chilon , her arm draperies beat the
air In movement. Any one hal opines with
the pot that perchance there's another wing
tangled In that nuIy thing styled a sleeve .
nut to conclude thl aleeve flat. Now' ones
- ' - from tea gowns IncUM toward plctllro etecU
and the most grceful of these are lose sad
newlng , with foatng under draperIes of lace
, At the back the buttons ot these rlftes-
like sleeves coma .ometmu almost to the
' 'L . hem ot the gown , and one unIque model had
; t e , efect at the gown and sleeves baing all
1f ana ,
A lte calla sleeve for a low evening frock
that maidens with dainty ahoulder are tak-
Ini to II a short untrimmed puR .
In our lime I / II exactly like the lIe eve
ore by the Ladles of Napoleon's court-and
] mte larger
VALUADL1 BUOGESTIONS
Here a tax hlutl 01 general making and
1
- - - - - - - . - - - - . - - - - , - - . - - - - -
.
buying them Rccm to bo In keeping wIth the
weighty eubJect
In the way of Interlning , dreumaker '
all seem to use only n pleatcl , call of
crinoline or heavy linen sewed In the arm-
hole , to keep out the tops ot all sleeves on
the muton leg order Those with the putt I
and lower arm piece In distnct rectons aosm
to have the pur entroy ; Interlined with some :
crisp texte ; the Iquaro stand , oI let of the
pur needing Ude
For trimming , and cspelaly for hcuse
sleeves , the new chameleon ribbons may bo
recmnmended .
The beauty and magnlfcencc of these rib-
bona bame mlnuto descripton , but In design
they are 10 blurred that they suggest nothing ,
so much lS water refectons through leaves
nnll gorgeous flowers . One wide pattern to
he . used for bells and stocks looks exactly
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Illw
A STREET UOllICE.
ns I a peacock had dragged his tall over a
palete of wet paints and then entertained
himself by beatng It at random over t'no
ribbon
Ribbons with "Persian" lreets ere also
seen In rare variety of .jaly and desIgn ,
patters being closely massed palm leaves In
ser nut browns and rich jewel tints.
EFFECTIVE RIDBONS
, These are made up Into the tall stocles wih
the hUge bow at the barb ! now so much worn ,
and may form part of the most somber street
gown
In that event there Is often a folded belt
ot the same and a twist around the bottom
of the sleeves.
r the sleeve Is three - quartora length a big
rosette fnl8h s the twist at the back , this
graceful and becoming cuR arrangement
being as much In ! form as ever.
For other hInts fur sleeve decoration sea
the delgns shown They represent some of
the fashion's latest fancies , carefuly selected
and from the best places.
NINA . .FITC .
!
81111.OAD8 ( I , Ilnerly.
I'ONxI 'HHlo"H of AmerleanVonlen
"nl",1 ut $ : tOdlUllllllll.
"I the occasion ever' arises tor the new
American women to show true public spirit
from the sale of their jewels alone they could
build and equip twenty ot the biggest battle-
'shlp8 that ever destroyed commerce on the
high seas. You have heard how mUch , 1
battleship costs Nell , multiply that by
twenty and you will reach the nearest cst-
mate I can make of the value ot the precious
atones owned In our states. "
This from a member at the most prominent
firm of jeweler In New York , and when the
reporter stared and Rasped at the result of
the sum In muliplcaton be only laughed and
said he bpd drawn It very mild .
"I ' or AmerIcans are tle most lavish pur-
chas ra of diamonds anl pearls mono of any
women ! In the world.
"The taste for diamonds grows with 'In ' ! =
ilulgence : the more a woman has the more
I
she wants , until It becomes.al Is the case of
ana at our customer who will spend a mornIng -
Ing over our counters , shopping for tiaras , as
coolly as If she was matching ribbon. She
has found , like pretty Mrs Yerkes of Chi- !
raga that the way to be famous for her
jewels Is to buy only of a certain kind
"It was Mrs , Yerkes who first bought yellow
dlemonds lSrs. . Alter had the bet that
could be done In 1 collclon of subtle stones , '
and the Chicago lady's clsket Is reckoned as I'
worth $ 300,000 ,
"Ilse necklace Ii long enough to be worn
as a band to outline the top ot a decollate
evening' bodice , cut over the shoulder court
fashion , and sometmes she does away en-
trely with the right sleeve of an evening waist
substituting an epaulette , made all of 'dia-
mends with strings of the gems hanging
down to her elbow.
10wn
"Airs. \Vliam Astor has really never cared
tor other jewels than diamonds , and only
wears portons ot her crbeJe on very
stately occasIons , even her hands ! at other
tme showing but hoe wedding ring and a
ltte circlet , of not at all valuable pearls ,
given her long ago by her oldest son.
" ! fe has added tam limo to time to his
mother's collecllon . that some day will go to
his lovely wJfe I now consists of twenty-
two places made up of nearly 10,000 almost
fawless white diamonds set variously In gold ,
slver and platinum . , appraised at 8 round
; ,000,000. .
"There are three lladems and a ported
crown , modeled from a circlet Josephine wore ,
The Are necklaces are all cpies from an-
tques , one from a royal Russian ornament .
showln twenty of ! Is big stones pIerced
throngh the center the most dlfcul feat for
a lapidary to successfully accomplish . At
great baits In her earlier days A1rs. Astor
often wore her dancing dress looped with
wih
spl'ays of these gems and covered , as with 1
cuirass , from throat to waIst , so huge were
her two stomachers , but as hostess she wears
only s few rlnls and decorative brooches
"The daughter - In - law of Atrs. Astor , sr ,
clasps her white neck with a thoatet of ru-
hies , and wears 1 wonderful ltC hair ornament -
meat ot a single huge rUby In a circlet of
diamonds , the big red stone raid to be the
largest and fnest ever t81.el tram the Bur
map mines.
"Tho jeweler , who at Intervals polishes Its
s ttng , woul , he says , at any tme give $ :5-
000 Cor one hal its size I Is cut en cabochon -
than , hut A1rs. Jack Astor spends a great
deal mora money and enthusiasm' on antique
gold ornaments , collecting them . for theIr
own beauty .
"Mrs. Twomby has a sincere American
loco lor turquoise . her set rivaling that of
Mr. Arthur M. DOdKe , whose watch , with
al Il complete works. Is set Into the holloW -
loW ot a huge trno blue , egg-shapc stone ,
surrounded by perl .
"Mr. Langtry , yers ago , made turquoise
taelsnnablo ! when 1 certaIn royal person
Rave her n sIngle necklace at them valued at
E10,000 She aferward broke up the or3-
mont and saM it , to defray her first venture
on the stage , and Mrs. 'womby bought all
but four of the stones from a Dond street
jeweler , paying nearly the original price
Her American jeweler then bought , at the
6aIB of the royal French casket , 1 pair at
bracelets , dating from ni reign of FrancIs I ,
took out the diamonds and topaz with which
It was spangled , and set of six great tur-
quolses , costng from $000 to $80 each
"Afra Ah'a Vanderbilt has the best col-
lecton of pink pearls Inl the states , In rings
and necklaces
" 'They are l big as billiard balls , ' quoted
one admiring young man , who IW Mrs , Van
derbit In her great pearl necklace ; the long
strings looped up In a fringe abut the front
of her bodice , and her floe shoulder carryIng -
log , at the lowest ctmate , $00,000 worth -of
these products of the oyster
"Uer largest pearls , contrary to the fashion .
ahe weN as ear scrols ; ] key ate circled
with a cord and true lo\"er's knot of dla- '
monde , sack pearl alone wortb 4,00 round
American dollars .
"It I Ake Cornel us Ymderblt : who wear
ringa as her hands
a are exceptonaly pretty .
and her necklaces are : I bl& dog colar. One
11 alternating strings of peal9. dIamonds
and opals , six rows In all , each worth the
Incolo of thre ordinariI- prosperous busi-
news man A1rr . Vanderbilt , whero\'er' eke
ggee , bus rests In the rough or polished ,
and has them aH L her tans : . paper weights
Imollng battler , her puma anl card cesr s ,
until nearly a ballet have ben dispsed at
"Star sapphiror are Dtrr J'oler Palmers
prattle gams , Bang wUh salon of the largest
blue npphlres known to dealrva . One that
eke wear 1 a pendant . oval shled and
.wnglng IA a 'lond clrclat I. ta IIend
- - - - - - - , - - =
.
In Ilzo to that adorning the state crown of
ngland Her jewel ) ) box would probably
fetch several hundred thouand , and Atn.
James Kernochan's emeralds aloha would
bring as much . Only the empress of Russia
, has a fner colltctlon . far Mre . Kernochan
made her pick tram the 'rech crowl je'wI. ,
I you wish to gain t + erne Idea of the puon
women have for Dowels know that at the
great I.'nnch sale enl American frm alone
bid In $ ,600,00 worth of ornaments
" 1Ylthin two das they had sold of every
artcle , of course 1 I rcsonable alvanco [ on
the money Im'estel. Numbers ot the fnest
pieces went west , notably a necklace . S.Ito
be the property of : Iarlc de Aiedich Tat
wan purchased for ! lss Hanna Croker , now
Mrs Aloxandre , at the Snug sum of $3 , OOO.
" ! rs. Dradley l1rtn , who rues there trying
to rIval firs , Astor's colecton , bought a
solid ; 1DOOOD worth of these Jewels and
$00,000
later , Into the hands ot Mra . George Gould ,
passed the nnlque green pearl , set for 1er II
a ring
"Ono night at the opera she sat In her
I tather - In - law's box , and after applauding
AI\ary In the torglng song , looked down at
her gloveless jeweled hand , to see that the
pearl had popped from Its setting , Now , even
1 Goull does not faire the loss of a $0,000
pearl wih equanimity , nod the opera house
was leraly examined with a mlcro&opo ,
but the heirloom of the French queens was
gone , and deco then Mrs. Gould has been
able to beast of having the only necklace
I at ash- pearls In America. ,
"SO you see , " concluded tha dealer In
precious stones , "how lrge a porton ot
American wealth bas been Invented In this
half barbaric love for brliancy and color.
Yet jewels will costly be turned Into cash ,
as the French government dlsco\'ered. Good
diamonds alone always fnd a market , and the
bigger they are the more they are coveteth
"As an example there Is one frm In New
York that possesses the biggest lump of pure
carbon ! In the states This Is valued at $ OO-
000. and nearly every flay they have an otter ,
for I. The wh'cs of plutocrats are wiing
to lay down the money , aU In cold cash ,
but the brilliant - Is sot - tor sale ] ' I I
Ill\1'UCKI'S 1.II UAUGI'I'gU.
Sumethln" About Mary AtullrHul and i
lire Life Ahron"
When Mary Anderson left the stage , says
a London nwspaper , Henry Abbey told her :
that I she succeeded In giving It up she
would do something greater than she had
yet nchleved Yet though her career on the
boards was a brilliant one , and though , SIL
retired from them when her fame wan ' at Its
highest , the possibility that she may return
to the arena of her triumphs Is very alight
Mary Anderson was educated In an Ursulne
convent In Loulaville. Shd 19 ! devout Cath-
olc and aU through her stage experience
she practiced the duties ot her religion very
faithfully . At 17 she made her debut as
Juliet In a local theater . Her lama speediY
grew. Her extraordinary beauty has always
had much to do with her successes , but she
had talent , ambition and versatlt ) ' . In the
begInnIng she used to play In one week such
widely (1lerent roles as Lady Macbeth , JulIet -
lot , Ileg Aterrlllea . Paulno , Igomar and Gala- '
tea , In 1883 she went to England and captured -
lured the Briish pubilc . winning a tar
greater success than In America Then came
the failure at her health , her farewell to
the stage , and her marrIage to Antonio de
Navarro , 1 member of the well known New
York family by that name , Nothing could
have been more quiet and or hand than the
simple weddng ! In a small Catholic [ church
In England ,
Mr. De Navarro took a place In Tunbrldge
\\'els. for the sake at his wife's boalth . From
there they go up to London frequently ( It
Is only an hour's railroad journey ) , mad they
lead at home the most quiet , contented exIstence -
Istence Imaginable. Nothing Is needed to
make Ills at their charming via- on Fern
dale road an Ideal of domestic bliss except the
presence ot children. There' were rumors
niter their marriage ot their disagreement :
and separation . but such reports were as
baseless as they were unkind Airs. De Na-
varro has said : "I don't thin ] < anything :
could have lateen me from my stage life except -
rapt being so much In love with my husband ,
\Ve had been In ] love fol ten yeas , and I
simply had to let the other things go and
marry him : '
Although they are very ranch Anglicized
Americans now after their tong stay in l
England , the De Navarros have by no means
abandoned the ] Idea ot living In America again
at some time In the future.
oilurnty . - Fan " ' ( ) IES.
J'oreh1 Powrrl II'Ht.V Deeorntu , .
Uponhn I.'nlr Sex.
Our government Is far behind the Euro
peon powers In reognizing notable merit II
Individual women
Abroad , for deeds of' special heroism or
devoton , they Ire rewarded with star and
crosses wick which to decorate their frock
lronta
Prussia has several decoratons for women
The oldest Is [ the Order of the Swan
founded In 14d0. Its object Is the relief of
distress generally. The badge Is of gold with
a swan grayed upon I , and the mete Is
"Ood be with you : '
The Order of I.ulsl named tor Prnssla's
mot beautiful queen , bestows Its badges , ot
the first class , to women for meritorious service -
vice In nurtng the wounded In war , ot the
second class , to women distuguished for philanthropic -
lanthropic work genonlly .
The fr8t woman who received the Iron
Cross of PrussIa was Atlas Florence Lees .
who was superintendent ot the ambulance of ,
'
the crown prlncese now the Dowager Fm-
press Frederick . MIss Leee was an EngIIBh-
woman she was with the Tenth Prss Ian I
pores before Metz . '
In France the Legion of Honor accords 'the
reward of merit to men and women a\ e.
I was founded by Napoleon I In 1804.
Wltbln a tew years three women have been
decorated with the button.
A lalese cross at white enamel edge
a Ith geld and horn , on a scarf of vIolet rib-
bon Is the decoraton presented by the !
Order at Sldonl , which was founded In 187 I
by Iing John of Saxony ! In memory of his ,
queen , 1 Is desIgned especially tar the reward - I
ward of women's slrlcl In war i
The shah of Persia bas conferred the Order
of the Sun on several women , Mme. JUac- ,
Mshon among the number.
Th sultan of Turkey has been very gen.
erous In the beto'll of decorallons . espe- ,
claly honoring American women , A1rs. Whttl I
law Reld for ' her gnerosity and benevolence
to thl sick' In hosplal when she was visitIng -
Ing In the east , and Irs. Charles lenrotn
of Chicago , tor the aid she rendered Turkey
during the Columbian expoailfon.e For her
anlltance tl the Trkish represetaUves the
sullen pea made her a member of the Order
of Cb&fa1at. In sending the decoration the
sultan Cveyed through his mlnlstl at
Wahington tude. hll sense of everl3tn& trat-
tude.oher American omeD who count stars
and cones glittering with diamonds Among
l tbal treasures are Lady Randolph Churchill ,
,
.
who has been , 1 ' oQretl 111 ; by the quean wlth'tho ' ' '
Order of the t ' toYp { of InlUa ] , and Alra. non-
side a wel kpotyy ; member of the American
colony In Lnlqr , The duke of 8ue-Coburg-
Ootha hoe cna1Pr d upon her the cross of
the Order cOlrr'Mll erle , "for her khI11ne '
to struRRlngl11t Inns of all nallauiltleel'
Outldo of , dtorNen of Imperial or royal
. rank , Mlnnic.R lallk I perhaps the most
decoratw Woml4 < gurope. Hero Is a flat of
the ordels or , \lnnrs conferred upon her :
Gold medl.of Meri from the Kng of the
BelglunD , 187DI,1J.rollea' Order ot Benevolence
from the klnlrH Soaln , 1881 : gel medal with
crown from L'eh'clnlng : delta ot SaxtAlen-
berg , GermanTjI162 ; luGslan nell Cress tor
ladles , tram "ho/clporor " of nussla , 1881 :
Cross of Merit feuArt and Science , from the
reigning duko'ut ' xe-lelnlngcn , Germany ,
188G.
188G.Sho
She alto POSSO'SC the Ilecoratlon oC grade
of oOlcer of the Order of BI Dante del Llbr-
tador , from the president of Venezuela , 1887 ,
Decoraton ot' ' Of er d'Acadenric h'ran -
colas from the french government , 1888
Order ot the Crown of Johore , from the
sultan of Johore , India , 189t.
Several of three orders are set In hrllants
and oven wihout them they are handsome
In the way ot ornament
Ono reason of Aline . Hauk's great popularity -
larity Is her vcr satlllly In that she sings
wml equal ea30 In all ot her operatc roles In
the Italian , German I.'rench ami English
lnguages. This , It Is. sal1 , no other prIma
donna can do ,
l _ _ _ _ _
It1'VOAIIs : - i'lllt 'OU . : .
,1 Jrllnnt Bolt Club train 'hh'h
.
ten Are l xcluII.I.
The only tvaman'a gel club tn America ] s
at Aiorrialown N. J.
A woman's course has been attached to
almost every g alt lnk In t the country , slnca
the game became 20 popular but nt ! or-
rltown the club was formed by women for
women
I Is officered and run exclusive ! by the
gentler sex , who ! have proved lberal , discreet
and sportsmanlke In all of the rulngs" ,
I Is only when a woman consents to "pat
him up" at the club that a nian can cnjoy )
any of the privileges . Then they are allowed -
lowed 10 pllY whm they please on a specIal
'courso laid out ( r their LeneAt.
All tJ smart s t 't MorrlstQ , ladlson
Convent staten rind other fashionable nearby
, reserts are members ot the club.
Ilss Hawlaud'fs ' president ot the organlza-
ton : Alra Twambly' , who was the leading I
Rplrlt In forming the club , Is vlco prolrenl j
Miss oulEo b'IQd , secretary ; Afra Charles
Dradley , treasurer : and ! rs. Wilam Ship-
pen , recording secretary The executive com-
mlteo Is compsed ot such well Itown
women as Mhs F. L. Hoplelns , ! rs. O. O.
Frelinghuyson . Atn Louis Thebaud , Atrs
Luther Iounte and Miss Bala tne.
Nothing less than ffty acres of sad ] would
satisfy these gale enthusiasts j the lnks , from
start to fnish , measure a tulle all a quarter ,
over as dlmcul a bit of country as the most
Inveterate golfer could wish The ladles who'I I '
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SOME LATE EFFECTS IN SLEEVES ,
had the laying out of the grounds Intended
to make the course 'as dlmeult as possibl
and they have admirably succeeded ' There
Is a deep hollow dIrety In front 01 the club
house , wherc the frEt teeing ground 1s pbce
-this hallow goes ly the name of the D vl's
Punch Dowl and to successfully brave Its !
"hazardd" ! ts Inded a test of skilh
The club house 1s one at the most charming
In thc country. I Is modeled il the old co-
lonial style , and has a great Dutch chimney
risIng UII at the hack ot the building , which
within has a huge freplnce with crane and
andirons -bese brIght autumn'afernoon3
the gatherIngs for afternoon tea are usually
01 the veranda , but a little later , when the
frosty days arrive , the Dutch frepbce , wih
Is blazIng logs , wil be the atractve spot.
Ths furniture Is at mahogany the hangIngs -
hags of blue and white. The walls are cov-
bare ered with burlap . while the beams are left
.embers write , their notes on paper of a
heavenly shade ot blue , with "Tho Morl
County Ool Club" stamped In whlo at the
head at each sheet. '
The star player 01 tha cub are lIss LouIse
V. Field , who has recently carried of a prize :
; lss Whitney , who also lock one wih the
net score of 53 , 115 Wic being second with
I score ot 68. Upon another occasIon , tiles
Annie Rowland Lord won the ladies' gel cup ,
presented by Aira . Twombly , with 1 net scare
: oC 94.
The prize Is In the form ot a loving cup
. which stands seven and cnlhal Inches high
'nd measures Ave and one - tourth Inches
across the top ,
Upon the front of the cup Is a ts ell executed -
toted etching of a feld scene , picturing three
gel players In the spirit ot die game . Upon
the back the name of the winner of the prize ,
with the date , Is engraved I
A10'I'IIIIt:3-lA-i.A\V. : .
" ; Jon0tronH and Unc.ntrn,1I'h'IIlh.I"
Upon the Afre.tol of " \ "Hlln.
Judge Pryor of the common pleas court of I
New York gave utterance recently In a suit I
for meat divorce : to the 10lowing remarkable . stlte- ,
"During my observation , extending over
many years , I have trluml that next to rum
mischievous mothers - In - lasr are the chief' '
source of nearly all the matrimonial brois
which come before the court , , "
This Is the frt tme ; comments the New
York World , that the paragrapher of the. .
comic papers has been jndlclaly corroho :
rated , ali thl remarks of the learned jUdge
are disagreeably important I may be that
his experience J4 I el ptlonal. We trust that t
It 1s . for the ! itl - ln - law has carried fur
years a prety"M ; ' ' : load of popular edlum
Dut to bo clasSM' with rum as a mlschlt- '
maker Is really a s\\eeplng lndfetmenh
_ I Is very dlfClt to get at whatever truth ;
them may be' ' In' )1he popular suptrtton
about mothers ; fn-law ; but we data say that I
they hall the elenaJce of statstc ! It would
bo found that In I vat preponderance of
cases the motWF-\I-aw \ has b e a self - sac -
rlfclng and UFQIplalnlng ; { ! nurse , a wise
counselor andJ . ! jnobtruslvo influence for
good.
R That all mot { a ; > ; J' u - law are by' ' nature mis-
chlef-makers"fro l ie moment their orsprlng
are marrIed wIn notl stand the test of close
. It Ii I arH'tonatrous and
scrtny. I ' 'ionstrous uncontra-
Ilcted lbel ughd rOle conseratsm and af-
urn
fecton of we afi'tvhich has been exgger-
clnntlan sled by . hack hufiurlttst Into a popular halu-
cnaton.
Thorn Is scarcDlyf faintly crcle anywhere
In which somdJpatlent widow may not be
found who has relegated all her afectons to
the new generate and taken ( herself
with the maturity ot slllerlna many of the
Irrlttn responslblles of a home that would
otherwlso make domestic le n load of little ,
cares. She Is unsung , but we can safely put
her against the michievous ntother - itt - law.
1.'u.hlol Notre .
Nets and alovef at all descriptons will
prove some of tae stronglt features of tAe
lace buolnes far tall.
Dack velvet hate will be the thing the
brim perhaps face with satin , and "uckles
of steal and HhlneatonM.
Cbltons are stn In hIgh , tavor , and the
aeason's products have certinly much to recommend -
ommend them , both a reads weave and
hade.
A tiny velvet mut In envelope shape II
lned with yellow satin and trimmed with
cascades of taco and Ihort relow oltrlch
tOtherl arranged s rosettes .
The boll' IA either all or ' , ,01 la a
popular material for denl-seuon wraps . The
"kotch shown I Jacket of green cloth , brRldld
In and blue silk .
green naery Ilk.
Celaote for thMter and railing velar
are so gorgeous that they are consplcnoua.
To make ono stricty up to darn nn extra Vl-
gael amount of brlJeJlle , tar falls , loathers ,
jeweled trlmm1nl and far I I nracssnry .
The arched Marlo Stuart bonntt has been
re\'lved , n11 now 11 Paris n long cloak much
Iko the Iothet Huhbarll" model ha taken
rank among nel tashlona . The PrNlch-
woman , who ! s.'torlal tastes are So well ,
cultrated , contrives to look well In nnthlng I
)
oho elects to don
Fethers como In extra long plumes nod
extra abort ones to meet the demand fur this
winter There are Itto ones no hge !
than n Anger , easel 10 make a rim for I tiny
velvet turban , or to edge the wide brim of
a ] tat . The variety In alxe male It possible -
ble to lalrl ) ' load a hat with them , each
feather being us11 to the best nJ"antaKe ,
Marlo Altoiletl' , Josephine , and even n
suggeston of glzabethal styl s are IllpCr-
Ing among the very eleg3nt gowns for late
autumn and winter wear-n rpecnl occasions -
dons , however -and the Introduction of pic-
lurlrque c08tumes , hlstorlcnl or otherwhe ,
Is the very Infest photo of h'wnlng { that Is
taldng the place at the ordinary regulation
style of btldes' and hridcamnids' nttre ,
The autumn headgear Is less fnuntlly ;
rich and much more picturesque ali be-
corning In form thou that .eun recently .
Velvet and fdt , ot course , compose ' moat of
the hat , but same lllnt ) . French I creatons
are made ot taffeta , Thus shlrrerl hats have
a pecular old - lltne appearauce and arc defy
trImmed wih tnfs of ft\thers , nigrettea ,
antique lace and buckles , which give thorn a
rnl'y ' fpsclnatn ! : appearancc. ,
The beautiful Cleopatra abodes In bronze
tatrny brown , chestnut , golden , olive and
Havana-a rich russet brOWn-tHl all the
deep rolls and dahlia dyts , arc In highest
favor this autumn season , mid french ateliers
are arMing to thee favored colors briht
anlln\ mauves and n nel' "Preston Illnk"
that Is mcrely a much solt ned magenta , far
marl generally becoming than the maGenta I
dyne of a year age ,
Flower wilt hs worn on hats all wlnlr ,
and slrango freaks of nature they rEpresent ,
I we bleve the tale they tell. They are
made of toilet In all the fshlon\bl : ! edlors
and the most artfcial combinatlans-shape ,
tinting , tasloulng are unlike any flower of
Aeld . garden or hotlmusc They avowedly
are Intended only to ! I'e masses of color
and they servo that 11rposc to pertection .
Bcautful dahlls , oranges , greens learnt rleh
Persian colorM suggestive ef autumn are the
fa\'orles ,
The tendency toward the use of glmp and
galleon effects In various widths la hecomlng
more and more prevalent , Thle trhlmlngs
range from : two and one - halt to ten Inches In
wIdth and arc fnIshed In both straight and
Vnnn'ked borders. SOIO of these goads
EliolV marquise or escurlal patterns In silk
lace and chlrun or net , ret ealhtG a heavy
raised cord on' each design. The desires are
In open effects , the' material : on which they
era applied throwIng out the patterns In boll
reir.L ! !
, The fUlllers have set forth the moat
elegant suet expenstvc articles of th .ir winter
tock. Sealskin , otter , mlnl < ant Persian :
Iamb I wraps occupy central posItons In the
display a hsdos'rs , , and i study ot [ orthc : ming
styles Is thus aIel"it the passerby , The
new fur tests hav\ the Ilracl\'e aellons
of colarettes , Achu-shaped trimmings , or cape
callers . also made of fur' of eIther a nutehln
or contrastng land : ofenE they ale of n
diferent color and sort . Narrow fJr border-
Ings , matching these acc ssorles will ha
placed on the start edge , IS It Is the aim of
' designers to render the CfstUlO rich and
luxurious with as ' 1Ul complcaton 09 Iroa-
sihle.
Plir keeping the bo net on the head In high
autumn winter , winds strIngs are supPllor to
ni other means uf fastening whntsocter
'bls women are beginning to discover and
to adopt them , particularly since faphlon hs
salctoned their use once again , Velvet
strIngs are the titoat btcomlng , and these
may be as wide or as narrow as one pleases ,
straight ribbons or cut Alas and made up
'wlth 'a bow t6 be helll with pretty jon eled
.plns. Black velvet . la l the most nasal , but the
; ' mlll ; rs sholv toques and bonnets with
IsCrings . I made t " rloasly of green , brilant
cherry , magenta and many other colors , on
, medals made oC black or lark green velvet
'
F'mJnh,1 Xo" , #
Lady labbcrtou , the Inventor ot the dlvldod
knlckerhoekers skirt , Is ! advising : temale sr.vanta to wear
Sarah Dernhardt has turned phlanthropbt
and . presented the .Iardln des Plantes In Paris
I with pro oran outangs. The Inc mpuable
Sarah ch'rletened them Paul and Vlrglnla
OUs H. C. Cosgrove ot Joplin . 110" , ban or-
ganzCI ! d led mining company All the of-
cars and Etockhohlers are women 'rhe hbo
Is done by mcn. One of the mines blnv operate -
seated bye ' , the company ! ! called "The New
A'oman , "
oman.
Dr , Burt J. : [ a'cocle pre\re.1 { a paper far
the Homeopathl : Ilellcal society of the state
of New Yorle , which recently convened in
New York City . The cull Influences on the
nr.rvou system ot the bustling lfe of business
men and women Ivan cbndmnned . The bicycle
I doing great good for nervous , ovelvorle rl
'
'pcope. ! .
! lime , : Irchesl recently celebrted at Paris
I the tortleth , anniversary of her career as a
: toaeher ler frst activities began ttlth' a
Vienna cousenatory. On the death of leI
daughter she left for Pari , which ! she has
made her homo ' Ime. larchesl hh turned
out 1 large number ot fnlshid sIngers , among
whom were many Amnrlcans ,
: Iss Alce naHour , the attar of : fir . Arthur
J. Daltoar . Is to give us I book on the tour
which she made In South Africa. I will be
named "Twelve Hundrl Mies In an Ox
Wagon " and will been iustrtons tram Mist
Bailout's own dl'wlnls , Ilss Ihlour and
her party jonlneel from Cape Town to Salis ,
bury , thence to the coast at neira , amt home
hy Zanllar.
I wi ] be news to most people that Mmp
Calve was frst considered a contralto This
fact Is disclosed In an Interview which thc
dltngnlslled prima donna recently hal with
! arc Bumenburg , In the course of which ( she
also stated that her father was French and
'
her mother Spanish , and that , des'plo the
biographer she never was at the Paris con-
servatolre.
Interesting stories are hang told ot the
mother of the minisler to Franco , \Vhlelaw
Held. Just previous to her death , at the advanced -
vanced age of 9 years , she tool I lively Interest -
latest ! In natonal aUaln. A pretty Incident
Is related that at an entertaInment given In
her honor a few years ago she was led up to
a sofa draped with the Amerian fag , but de-
cined to sIt upon I , declaring the fag was
made for nobler purposes ,
The very next debutante of Importance at
the Grnd opera at Paris Is a Boston woman ,
I'rancosVood , I pupil of Charles H. Adams
who , If there Is any truth In report , has come
back to America tar the arrangement of that
last Inevitable detail necessary tor I debut
on the Paris stage , where so many American
girls have already made successes , and where
It Is a traditon that Jhe debutante pas In
one way or another for her frst appearance
Princess Johenloho , "vle of the chancellor ,
has at last received permlllon from the Hus-
sIan government to held lor le Iho estates
! In Russia that came to her Pram her brother ,
PrInce Peter pf Sayn-Wlgensteln , The Hus-
siln law Insists that all aUenS shal ] either
live upon the land they own In Russia or sell
! It. Alexander iII would maIm no concessions
to the Johenlohes , and a part et the statc
was sold at a aacrlAce . but Nicholas J has
proved more tractable
Liian Russell's bicycle , a dainty machine
with gold crossbar and sky- lue tres , has
been on oxhlblton In the window of a bicycle
store In Boston , lkewise the fair elder when
she 'takes her conltutonal on the whcel.
I must be admitted by her most enthusl-
sstc admirers that the short skirt wih
legglns , whIch Is her riding costume , does
not diminish-au contralrel-the eRect of
embonpoint whIch has canoed 0 much unhappiness -
happiness to the prima donna end her dressmakers -
makers , and which aha has striven so hero
featly to reduce .
UB Zela Clt Is the mualral name of a
pretty woman In New York who , from a
ver small and single Iundetart In life ,
has buHt up an extenalve bnalnese. She
employs a number of epertence needle
women In the manufacture of ensigns jacks ,
burgee and signal fags tor yachts , Some
eve years ago . In I manner vurely accidental
she made a flag for a yacht , the neatness of !
which attracted atenton and led to other
orders. ler Como a a t.g maker spred
widely and rapidly , and she opened a lte
shop on South street with a small eBdetaat
which has grown Into a big one , and she
hu a' acorn or bands engage the whole
year around
s
DRESSES > 1 1 OF A DUCHESS t
Bridal rinery of nn Amorcl noiress
About t Wed a Duke ,
MIS VANDERBILT t S TROUSSEAU A MARVEL
-
, .l Iloarunllonx Cuntrlhntnl tu
n )11"1\h''nt Collcetlou-flare
I.'ur. lent n"'lul/lh' / tI"-
Cnrh' Ignnchu ( rh'r.
NEW YOU < , Oct 10.-0nly one week before -
Toro the llbUc announcement of Mis Con
suela Yanderbllt's betrothal to the duke of
Marlborough was announced , plans were on
foot at Marble house for the coUectol ot
what uliioubtedly wi be the most mngnlf-
cent troseal any woman , duchess not ex-
capted , ever received from her mother At
least It Is.Atrs . Vanderblll's ambition toro -
vide her daughter with a w/drobe so superb
that e\ry art le wil became nn helrlovnt
Just as war ship hllhler keep on Ale the
power and dlmen lens of all the recant
breakers evened by other natons , so ! rs ,
1'nnderhilt possesses exact lst and deecrlp
dons of al the famons modern bridal vulflta .
She Icows just what the respective daughters
of Ilea . Astor , the duchess of Coburg , Mrs.
: llclcy ! , lrs , DradlEy-Martn , firs. Jay Gould
and even the Lady ( Grosvenor , daughter 01
the dule of \\'cstmll tlr. riCelVd In the way
ot clothes lt their weddings , and her erort
will 13 to surpass all these , and Instrnctons
accordingly hate been sent out
Prom Slberla Venezuela and Alaska the
furs wi h : snpple < . Plrls and \Icnna con-
trtbut 'the /o\ns and . hats , while llrusaels ,
New \orle , Landon , Venice , Dubln mll even
Yokohama arc all going to be the richer lor
this new Angla - American alance ,
QUCK WOm [ IN PARIS ,
As there would be no time for a shopping
l'x\clllton to Paris , ; Irs , Vanderbilt hal
given thi majcrlty of orders by cable ,
and a week afer the engagement was \ublc
. '
property 1 sldilul , trlsty French woman
C1mo over , bearing 1 big box full of sample"
and dra ings. These were sent by the Paris .
hous03 ot the Rue ds la Palx , Hue.Caslogne
and Boulevards 11ipsherbs and des Capucnes ,
wher Irs. Vandrhlt Is a valued and regular -
ularatron. . These are all little shops , each
re1lng ! In n aPeclsllty . At one only corsets
and sm petticoats are made : another supples
sill . and linen shIrt waists , and there are
sanctums where bridal underlear alone IG
made by order , or where gloves , wedding
spans or neck deoratons arc treated In per-
lecton of detach
At alt these places 1IsB Consuelo Van-
dvrblt has shopped , and In Wax arc kept
exact repruductons other head , fKlrc , feel
and hands IS well lS a docrlptlon of her
coloring , height , carrIagE etc. , so that every
artclo ot dress can bo prepared ) wlthout'a
single try on , yet guarnt d to At. I
:1 s Vanrerbl Is n joy to the French
artiste. She Is a tall , typical American girl ,
\lh I grp'houud waist , supple rounded and
long-throatel1 as I Icley portrait Her head
Is small and weighted with masses of wavy
dark hair , her shoulders slops graciously , her
face ! Is I delcate oval , and Sler taste cud
sweet temper so compelling that oven Hour
that Independenty autocratic , sh1p-
tongued genius ot head gear , before whom
even prlncl'ses tremble , but obey , Is un < ual-
fed In hcr admiraton and civity to the
American heIress.
MAGC CAB S.
POl a week Ars [ Vanderbilt , her daughter
and that agent , with the samples , were closeted -
etl'll In profound concave : , and every day by
cahle an order reached same ono of thee
Parts shops , bearing that magic word cartt
'
blanche ,
The Ars' order went to a dealer In hanll-
korcnlefs . Twu dozen perfectly plain while
ones were sent .t once to a famous convent
far out on the Jtuo St , Hnnore of clolstcrll
nuns , noted for theIr Incomparahle embroidery -
ery . In this convent the nandkerchlefs for
the 'oun" empress of Umsln's trosseau were
dec rated , Every handkerchief has a specll
design for Its ornamentatlmr . SOle of them
will have rich , old , bis of f Yalenclennes lace
worked Into the Ibtcu amId wreaths , of Illles-
er-tho-valey , Miss : ) Vanderbilt's favorite
flower. In some InstancC the borders and InItials -
Itals will be done In drown work , and em-
bridered over Occasionally will appear a
great C , Iy twined , Consuelo , wrIten out In
Miss Vanderbilt's own graceful chirographY ,
but cvcr name and Inital always Is em-
hroldered the dUC'lESS coronet , largE or
of small arms , and frequently the Marlborough cot
AN IEIRLOOAI [ .
The wedding handkerchief Is a gilt ot the
duke , n wonderful ) hlstorlca } piece of Venice
Polgt given Sarah , the famous duchess , by
no leES person than Queen Anne herself , ann
used by the bride of every Malhorough dulm
ever stare The precious pIece Is to be
mounted anew oi a tiny hent-shaped center
of the Arrest ! Hnen lawn.
SOle of the lessor moucholrs are white ,
beached over with wee rasa buds , or bits
at pink linen , wih bIg medallons of black
lace let Into them A few are dlamond-
shaped , wlrlte sprinkled with tnfnleslmal
blue stare , or round wih a white lace C
embrolderell dawn In the center , and I
wide fri of lace on the edge In ail ,
theta are ten dozen , not one over nine and
a halt Inches square .
Of the slventy-fve gowns Included In the
trCSe1U , not one wi be scot out tvlth ln a
pairs of 1ta avn particular stockings. T'he
maturity of Nds foal gear are of slur , runnhtg
through et ery Imown varlatlon of tint and
shade. Ons pair is lmwdered with allver and
Iridescent palettes , sewed nit In crescent
forms , or figured over tvlth finely cut steel
beads. .Thera are lonely toes In flesh tinted
dlk , zo entbraldered in gold threads and lnst-
tallon Jewels ns to represent rho gorgeous
anklet : of eastern women , Dlack ones In
spun app are open worked nearly to tlse knee ,
with lacings of gold mul colored elik threads.
Somelhnca In black and whits the open work
is nothing less than Anest lacz. Such arc the
white wedding stockings , having Brussels
Inca let In over flea instep , tire taco showing
a coronet In 1ta meshes. Nolldnq croulcf ho
more cbarudng than a set of atocklugs In
etch bluette blue silk , ahowing elaborate deltt
blue ciceka , and another pair in blue , with a
Right of gray nnJ . hito asvallowa over rho
instep , are for wear ilh an einborate blue
dresshtg gown of tldck creped sills , lined with
gray satin and dear Ilttle heelless , lrolnted
buskin elgtpera made of blue dlk and Dluo
leather , faced and fled rvlth silk cords.
TOILING NUNS.
The orders tor under linen , corsets and silk
pettlcoala arc sutflclent to almost enrich the
makers for life Nearly ovary piece of linen
goes , on its completion , to the eforemen-
tloned cmtvent to recclvc rho coronet and 1n
Itlals , keeping twenty mina laboring far into
the nights. Every here full trlllitga at
Valenciennes ate used on rho lawn and note.
soak , as Bolt as chittan ,
For years and years Alrs Vanderbilt has
been collecting thla lace tor her daughlrr'a
trousseau , buying none bat rho oldoat and
rlcheat protects of the town at Valenciennes ,
I''or much of Il a qulnca a square loch was
paid at London taco auctions , and It even
overAosva into the beautlftd corsets of hro
coded silk , every pair of svhlch Ia made
to harmonize ts Ith the p tlicoata , elxty ! n
nanber uud talrly etiR with damasked splen
clots ,
All the corsets am short and t'ery yllBble ,
So avcit a figure as their future wearer needy
no creel clasps of steel. Indeed , they are
acatcciy more than gorgeous little hello , The
bridal slays of subtle peon de Bole , em
bossed la wreaths oI Mlles of the vane ) ' . are
caught In front by tour gold jewel aa clasps
In the shape of doubts C's , laced behind
wllh gold tlpped ribbons , The list Includes
stays for ovary. occeslon , flan court balls
to the hunting , Aelda ; bicycle coasts , too ,
And then Petticoats , one of cardlnei Bllk ,
arerlald whh a whale peon of black Chan
tllly lace , caught down at lntervala b ) em
btoldered Bpraya o [ popplea ; another is oI
svhllo brocade , wreathed in blecblln lace
Aouncee ,
1'lIE GREAT SECRET.
Not untli she moves up the stale on her
way to the after will anyone but Afra , Van
derbilt , hoe daughter and the designer of lha
wtrldlnq gown Gave the entaltest lnkling of
what tt fa fo be , Rurnan Ay thick as
mignting awallowr , hot po ono ran absolutely
spook trlth enthorlty. It was ehoaen , both
the ileslgn and fabric , from sampler and
drnwingr submittal Atrs. Vanderbilt at AtarDle
( louse , and thle much rho lady admllr , that
! t tequlred rho combined genius of two great
French houses to produce what spa h sntod ,
Ain. Vanderblit's trleoda say that it Ir
undoubtedly la be a apleadld attslr la white
lacy , knowlnq hoe gretl faro of this fahrle ,
and that for the trosaeau bare been ordered
two aurTueaingly glorloua n hlte taco ball
gowns , Indeed the brldo to be : has n merkctl
lava of trhllo , and the tint next kt her favor
Is n peculiar Iona at gulden pink , Chlot
amm q rho wanirobo glorlra fa dinner dress
of crramp Dengsl sotto and a rentarkaDlo
dandnq dress made nt nuny thlek masses of
Iliualnn , ono Ilnt tinder another , ao placed
that iha general result Is of an apilesrent
summer's sky at dawn , iL wonhl fro hard
to dlvldo Impnrtlally ano'a rnthualasm tte
twren rho tolicta propoaod and the ntarning ,
bedroom , lounging anR tea gonna of lace ,
A great ninny are of gulped brocaded Jnr {
nneso crepes , o [ slik crepou ! , strlpnl in flues
at sotto , ahorvlnq sloetrs to reach the Aoor , , -
nirp cataracts of taco talllnq from rho ,
shoulder , and amid ail Lhasa draperies Iho
xleeves proper appear , Altlnq the arm cloao
and nrhtkllnq down to the elbotr , to b.
caught by 1lllle gohl Ihtketl studs ,
GOIiGIUU9 I'Ult9
AirmdY como ut the furs halo arrived ,
lu there Ingo ccdar Ilned chests at their
ots n , contalninq the maa rlnhornto act of
sables ever prepared tor 'one woman. The
sleighing set Urchtdrs a cloak so Imlq that
the toot ran bo wrapped in Its sklrta , and
iined with male skhse , Then theta ! s a
barrel uwR , a cap apd gigantle collar , In
whlelr iho hole head can be Iddden. 110
ddea , there Is n carringo cape of Pabte ,
n boa , reachhtg to the knees , at asblo
falls , a calling cape , a akaling Jacket and a
carrlage robe hued with rich corn tlowar
blue ,
In addltlan to the sables arc seta of seal
ddn and most gostly of all the fur garments ,
chlncldlln opera cape , fallhtg from neck to
'
heels and Ihtesl'wllh rosy satin , Among
these fur things svgs sent n curiously beau.
tlGil divan robe , rondo of elder dawn , un
phtcked from the duck's akin and planed
urttully together 111e any pelt , it Is bor.
dread with tenthera from the duck's throat ,
also In the dried sklu and the whole of It
a elghe but n few ounces.
Of tbo tu elva tailor dresses ordered tram
London and Vlonneso Arms , a salt of rich
teasel damson cloth tclll probably tw orn
[ or rho going away gown , This Is ilned with
rosq purple satin. Ile coat opens os er n bag
front of cream taco and the hat , rather small ,
of braldect autumn gran felt and rch et , Is
trimmed svIUt tulle of blank , gold and purple
panales ,
Amen „ all theao suits , not rate o [ block
will b ) found , R Is Atlas Vnnderbill's uper-
stltilion that black gowns in n trosaeau bring
one 11l luck , Never in her short , bright young
Ilto has sbo worn a black dress , and to beght
her new and br1111ant career srhh ono such
track hr hoe wardrobe n ould , she feels aura ,
bring her unexpected miscry. Nut even ono
of her three bicycle suits are black , In Rreen ,
brown and a curios shade of hat rho hoodoo
tailors call donkey gray , these pretty cos.
tomes are dane ,
NEIV YORK SIIOCS ,
Ta a New Yark makers recelveil the orders
[ or [ ortyOve polo of shoes , ranging all tie
way from doublydressad mcoso Idde Ashng (
botea ; sauvage , reaching nearly to the Idea ,
venter tlRbt and mnnnt for use in rho Scotch
and Norway salmon streams , to the remarkable -
able wcvlding slippers , These exqulslYo pan.
toufles are o [ n hito satin , a ! th ivory pacts ;
showing great crowned C'a In brilliants on
olther too and a llny rdging oP 4slto lace ,
crhnped and etiRened with mlnuto brilliants
( rliling their tops ,
The generous mother o [ thla tuturo duchess
oat only supplies all these things , but rho
tvetiding tan as well , 118 w111t0 lot's Aloha C09t
fag ; 1,000 , and mounted on pearl , rho guard
stlek ahowing the name "Conauelo" ht dia
tnantls ,
Also has s1ta given her daughter n toll
escritolro set , in elephant stein and gold
mountinga , ono Item of which Is n vase , hold.
Ing Ave books , bcaring In gold script rho
daughter's name , Dlnnheluf Castle. 99ty
hooka are for engagements , vlslting Ilsts , i
charltfes , accounts and checks , Inaldo this
last rho checks are beautltully engraved with
the cratvned hdtials C , bI.
As boi by box the svonderul trousseau
arrives , rho contents are laid forth In two
romna , devoted to this almost royal ward-
rgbe , and , tbo day LGtoro a corps of expert
packers come to prepare it tor shipment ngaln
over rho sea , Allss Vanderbilt tvlll give n
Iltllo morning receptlan to girl trlenda and
exhlblt her toilets , Then It la alto will break
up filer lovely seta of sliver taller inb'o ' tiings , ,
bar collecllon of desk ftktursa , books' , plc.
lures and even vlrllah JewolB , to bestow a
keepsalo on ovary friend ,
Ih : Ilumphrryx' ayxtem dlRere from all otttoe
xchoolx mid khula of utedlohtea , behtu
ON P CIFIC
FOR '
DIS AS .
nr , Fhnnphreyx' Atnnlutl panned free ) tellx oboe
all the 9pcchlce sad Dlxraxex they core ,
Svc ran doll upon bat one ar too at a timo-
Ihcy are o11 rood ,
RHEUMATISM
I
Iecaused bylrfc Acid In nio blood , Thoacuta \r ' 4 1
anaek 1x prcclpllrUrrl b ) Cold , Dnmpugax , I21ch
F'aalx , ur Lbptora , ,
llr , llumpbnsye' 9Decluc Ro. hi actx dlrrctly ou s j
lho3ildn ya , opnnluK the clug < vlductx ; tbapmrt +
up mrrntlonx paxx oR , rho blood 1x cleansed , and 1
the cure Is m"uloqulcltly " and panunnentlY.
D'rnm the flrxl "brbtlc" to tlfo
worxt cltwr of soul No , IG enrrx.
" 77" FOR COLDS.
{
11) on x 111 uao earo ht drexs , nsoW uoncecaxary
rxpuantr , and carry rind rake " 77" on llxi allthlesl
suxplclmt of n Cold , you wltlkecp wall ,
" 77" curer Culda , GrIUDn , Inllutnua , Cnlarrh , ,
1'alnx and 5orrucxx hr Iho lined and Cbesl , Coualq
Soto Throat , Ceneral 1'restrallou , and b'cvor , pro.
veulhtlr Pumtmanla , )
+ ' 7i" will ' .besot : up" n cold ihtlt
"hnnttx our'
YEVItS-Couucxtlrinx , Inummnalionx , and all
I'abia , th enre l by Slw + elAc No. L ,
IIYSI'B'SL1Indlcrollun , steak Slmnnch nnQ
all fonnxuf billnuxnsrex are cnrwl LyUr , Iuw 1
phmy' i 9Ux ltla No 111.
S1i1N UISI : iSRS-hczemn , ) : rvBlDelax , ] flues ,
SaltlthenmallyleldgnleklytoStaclllcNo,1I u
Small bottles of Dieaxutt Pelletx lit Ynnr veal
porlsot ; sold np druKRlalx ; or smrt uu mcclpt of
Drlco,2icnrflrofurAl.lllr , ] IungrhrrYx'Aludlulno
Co. , l l l and l l'J 1YIlllant sL , New York ,
z' a
ay e
' on all social
f 'J , OCCa310n5 ,
' ' Yau cannot o
- i 0 f12 O ErA l
WI hOUi alRiq
11 p ' '
=
. . rtt a i P TRIAL
tl ' 1 rr 11
n e a e
Ttti : ' DERFUME.
flowery , reresl ( > , in , delitaTo :
and lasr/n ,
r
For gale by druQdisl's only , I
IMPERIALCAO v'N ! PERFUFIEkYCO , ,
SAIrIT LOUIE. ,
HEYEA BROTHERS DRUG COAGENTS
ALSOTNY WEDDInG BELLS ' ( wo new
Icaown OEACH EJLOW. odors , l ' "
r'
DR MOflPNINE HABIT
PAf11LL3CLY d PEBYdtl6hiLY C7gED
DR. 8. B. COLLINt3'
PAINLESS OPIUM NTIOOTE
ORIGINAL AND ONtY REdDINE REMEDY ,
Olreorered In 186A , iHEAIANI BaoY Free.
OIDcs912,78Moeros8lreet ,
CHICA00 Ill
G O. Deawle/U , ,
-
1
r J
'roeUeuHmenof DYrorloJ IbWA end llbrale
oJlfrnmu ! Ilomrn , SDapaae/doUf booad'ftnt.
tmintb myUltrlMllceaadeatlsL Careauuea.
era eau or wnu.INtAU11an ftllra wrhu.
,
. .