. - . - - . . j. . " _ . . , I - .4 - - . . ii ' , I.z " , . 'r' - - . , . . 0' , f - - - . . " - . - - . _ . , - , . - , , _ _ . - - , , " - . - , r - - . . . . ' - - - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - : , ' " . - 4 . . . , - . . - - , - - - - V -V , . ' . - - V _ -V _ . ' V _ . . : \ ; : - - . - . - - - - _ . . - TIlE OMATLA DA1Li UUU : SUNAUUUS : t ' 2 5 , 1895. 11 . - _ _ _ _ _ - - - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ . f Fi . : f.mt1/ L ; I ; ; L / " , J t . , _ _ . " - " , _ h _ . . , _ _ , _ _ _ , . _ _ _ _ - , - - tl 1 I I I . , 1f. I I WOMAN'S DOMAIN. 11 I I . _ c i lr.jJfl 'fifflli i ' . = = . " . , - = = = . IUVIJ 1 ' . \ ItI'Y IIIU : ! l'lcllrC"llle ( .I.fll. . . 1)eIgiied for . ' . , \11111 1.'I..t. . " . NEW yomc Aug. 22.-louso parties Bre flow In order ) , .no longer fojournlrgs : out of town require ! Ul3ble tcglery ; COle' quenty liUso gowns In delicate wools are beginning . ginning to bl o" out In bOdutul ( autumn tints , trlnmlngs being In the main fichus or fronts In stt inutlg , or ohe Ilalnt bib colau , V In f many ( untasl shapes , of crisp mudlu and batsle , olgeo \ Ith lace. - This brings about a happy and seasonable result , without looking as If I , things were - rUlht too much all the fact that their gal" nltures are Cxtrelel becoming will doubtt.3 make thel very pOllular. I The fichu may be confned solely to house anti evening gowns , but It will be here , In frletlte mulL and In silk muslin , Ngell , with floe laces ; and the next thing one can U . . reasonably expect ' will be a 8ullden diminish- . lug In the 8110 of ( pleeves , and strong evening textures \ \ I bl exclusively splendid silks and ? satIns. Skirts . ale , wilt be plain , or else ΒΆ decorated wIth quaInt muslin flounces , and 1 the shapIng of party bodIces will lean toward the pointed corsage , with round neck , only moderately decolete , \\orn by Marie An- toInete and the ladles of her court l'Ol TALL AND STOUT wml . Among the revised fances : for early au , . tumn costuming Is evlnce a strong liking for . 'I the long 1830 shoulder scam. One ehould be ; tail , however , to catty It off , as otherwse : the effect will be grotesque and for the same rea- Eon short fg.res ; are advIsed to eschew the . " " with "court" coats that arc threatenIng us the next Influx of Irls modes. TheBo coats , I Is said will be made In cut velvets , satins and brocalle In gay hues and . with a blacker , or colored skirt , \ ill be much affected for evenIng wear V For short fIgures bodices will remain the . round affairs they have been tqr some time . though drawn lawn trimmer In front and , It at nil deCohtetO . , less so than formerly. I , A becoming evening cut for the revealing of round , pretty throats , at present much In favor , Is the little square here pictured In a ) the donblo column delgn The costume which Is most suited to n demoisehie . or else very juvenile matron Is , , In pale green pink or plneapplo ) silk . with J sleeves ant belt of Trianon pink velnt. .r The plain skirt hangs loosely over a green . -J taffeta petticoat , whose shimmering surface * adds luster to the almost transparent pineapple - . apple silk . and the bodice Is charmingly : : : , ' - . --Ij.1-U4 , I \ I , .I ' . ' It , - I " " I\t'\ ; \ , . , . - ' " L- ORGANDY OVER SILK. draped wih French lace headed by bands In old pink galen and green pailettes. This toilet has just been designed as a little dance and dinner frock for a house party wardrobe. COSTUME FOR A YOUNG : IATHO . The second toilet In this pIcture Is a modi- led exprosslon of Marie Antolneltsm , and Is suIted to both maid amI matron The material Is 01 yelow brocade , that , adorable shad of yellow that makes a brunette - lelo fair and the fichu Ie white silk mull . edged With a very rare and beautiful quality of French blonde lace The costume Is In two pieces a plaIn and very \'olumllous skirt , which Is made stiff only by the superb quality of the silk . the lining of white taffeta and outside being sewed up together. The upper portion Is a short plain body wIth full looped sleeves and surplice , fronl . - Artificial flowers may with taste decorate ' time front of the flchu - draped corsage and the V at the back as they are again In vogue all combine daintily with th fchu j with the ) 'elow brocade red or yellow roses or white garllenlers are In best keeillng I on ornament Is worn It should be In time nature of an old jeweled brooch or locket , S fastened to a black velvet band that fits the bare throat snugly A IAHLEQUNI HOCK. An evenIng toilet . not illustrated . demon- .trated time fancy for combining odd colors and textures that has cHaracterized the sum- le ? . I also gave valuable hints for the using imp of odd lengths of handsome stuff . as the tIstng of several old evening gowns Into one , anti , yet It was a late aud very precious ' .pJ French importation. The skirt , which was ' : flared broadly at the bottom and very oar- /V row at the top was oC pale pink Pompadour brocade WIth a delicate blue ribbon design garlanding loosely all over and looping about V the stems of the boquets. Time bodice was of kilLed whIte mousselne de sale drown trimly down at the waist and cut square at time neck . back and front ; time top of the eieeves . which were balloon shaped amid of blue satin . alone kept It on the simoulders . For the rest there were breast knots of red roses mixed with loops of black velvet , , ant a belt and 101 : streamers of time same , the belt girdled low In front to give the waIst 1 long eect. This gown ha,1 a great deal ot distinction , In spite of Its harllqulno tendencies. mack ribbon velvet It may be useul to - , : ' 4) . , , , ,1 i . * , , N I ' I 'j III J0 ! 'h - . . . - - - - - . IILOUSE O ltERTY - SATIN WITI hUN- - OAIAN EmmOUmlY. know here. II much used on light evening and hOlise gowns I gives a strong balance to llle tones , and Is almost universally be- coming. Ou the organdie and Swiss gowns . always .1 charming for the evening and that are now being made with high sik linings Into home dinner frocks for autumn and winter , It Is especially effective. The velvet II used lS a I belt and salh end In corsage knots or else I runs over the bodice In braces from the belt or II tal ) In ' long lines down the skirt the ends pembapa fastened down with great "spider" bows. Where the neck I the lit- 1- fl. Iquaro alreal1 talked of , the nlYt 1 . . - " ' = ' ' - extremely effective when outlining It coin' 11letel , , ) III4ACKVhhlTfl ANn YELLOW. One charming little Swiss gown lately seen had this velvet decoration put on In a unique fuhlon. The material was dotted , whIte lots on a pale yellow ground . and the model wu a low "bahy" body and a gored skirt . with one tiny ufl1e which was edged each side with narrow whIte lace and gathered through time mhldle over a cord . The velvet ribbon \et was no wider than the tiny baby ribbon and hung In loose lengthwise - wise strips : over the body ) back and , frommt with a blouse efrcct. The short b31- I loon sleeves were covered , In the same way , I' ' rind ( rom under the belt which was also black velvet In a wider whHh , the narrow strIps ran down the skirt Into a short apron.hike . . . V that covered only . the front - - - - - - - - - - I ; tJ - SIL KTEA GOWN. - and hips. At the back this narrowed lp to a bare two Inches ; but seen at a little distance - tance with the light skirt I looked exactly as IC 1 tailed body were being sormm , house gown for afternoon wear arc being much lade In striped and figured chaiies and In plain and doled baree. 1'rlmmlngs of these lean also much toward black velvet. though colored silk and satin Is also used for revers and big collars , which are frequently - quenty lade further dressy with a deep edging ot lace A stylsh and becoming toilet for afternoon tea . and here illimatrated . Is ot whie barege paInted with black. The model Is on the tea gown order . which continues to be much In favor , and the big collar and sash arc ot mauve silk ; wide French lace edges the former and the bottoms ot the bIshop sleeves becomingly. The blouse pictured , , and which Is suited to either morning or afternoon wear will be found most becoming to a very slight and very juvenile malden I has the little square neck so charmIng for fresh , round throats and Is of Liberty satin tn tapestry blue , with black and wile Hungarian em- broIdery. NIN FITCH. nNrAr.IalI'P : I'I'itUtT . The Yurl..N n.Ch'N Fit'tei .r u Be- tr.th..1 e.'h. . , There IR no condition of social life at once so delightful and tryIng to the average young woman as the period oC enagement to the man at her choice She Is an object of consuming Interest to her faml ) ' . a lenIn In a email way amons her friends , the guest of honor at many entertainments , amid to the envious spinster her days seem a round of tender little attentions and cosy tete-a-tetes , congratulatory smies , cos.ly gifts and charm" ing clothes. ( lint to the conscIentious girl herself , who wishes to start out fair and square In her marrIed life . leaving no enemies or ! -teelng behind her there la a course of delalell and exactng etquet to follow that would puzzle a court diplomat. In ugland a young woman's I'arents relieve her of many of the mast trying duties , decide upon the length oC the emigagamnent . order Its puhlshed and private announcement , receive a large share ot the good wishes . and conduct all the particulars of the wedding In America however where I daughter assumes Car more authorIty In nil affairs of ' her own , these maters are left chiefy to 'ber care . and except In the southern states or for special reasons . It Is mme longer considered In good taste to keep un engagement . mont secret. Not less than six weeks shouhl elapse between the announcement amid wedding day , 111 however sure . or the contrary. a girl may feel of her lover's re- cepton by her parents she must Insist on her lover offering his cllms and cause to theIr consideration the ray after she has signified her approval oC his suit. lie should make a formal call on both her mother and father , and In case of their absence or resl. dence In another part of the country . she and once her affianced ought to write them at FAMILY ETIQUET. When time propOC1 allance Is then made public to the two famIlies boat keenly in- torested. sue has a right to expect almost Immediate civilities from her new relatives to boo Unless her fiance's parents arc very ohl , Invalllell or tn too deep molmrnirmg she can expect coils at once , to be followed by hospitalitles . that she must needs immemji- ately retur In case of age or Illness In her lo\'er's family she calls first on those who are In- capciated anti , her next duty Is personally to write to all her friends and connections . It only a note making known her matrImonial - nial Intenton , . To every letter . note and telegram of good wIshes sue shoulll make prompt answers . and now In her book ot so- clal tactics Mrs. Orundy has writen I that a chaperon Is a necessary adjunct to every alaneel couple. An engaged girl may receive her future husband alone In her mother's drawing room , though I Is requisite at sOle time durIng thlA daily visit after a consIderate cough outside the porilers or prelinminary porlers prelminary rattling ot I door knob for the maternal dignity to hover a moment on the threshold. Out of consideration to hr lover's feeling she does not receive her young men friends save on her mother's days al imonme she accEpts no invitations , except to gatherings of her own sex. where he Is not Included and devotes every attention to his family with peculiar courtesies to his parents. I I considered most Important that to- gether they attend church at least once every Sunday they lay drive walk and bicycle alone but must toke an obligIng younger mpmber ot the family along to the theater. opera and concerts . I Is permitted them to go to a dinner party with only her mald's company yet to a bal an older woman rela- tivo Is the propr compaulon and any demonstrations . discountenanced. strations of affection In Public are utterly WHEN IN SOCIETY DIscussion has raged high at tmes on the question of just wha part an engaged pair have a right to take In the frIvolIties of se clety and of late It ha been satisfactorily decided that when alendlng a dancing party time happy couple should take a few turns together In a round dance , share In one or more square dances with partners of their own choosing , antI then take their lea\'e. As to time exchange of gifts between these young people a new and sensible very slnslble de- cision has been reached respecting their proper bestowal and value . The engagement ring lay be as splendid or shllle an affair as the man's tate and pocket can afford . whie In exchange may b given a thin disk of Ivory on which Is painted a fair face . shut Into a red leather , heart. Ihaped case. This case Is just large enough to nt neatly Into an Inside waLtcoat pocket and cfses with a lock , of which only the owner knows the Illrlng During the weeks of engagtment an abundance of /owen. fruit . books , bon bens and odds and ends of brlc-a. brae are token proper to lay on the shrine of love , but not until the week before the wedding ought jewels to be given for beyond her engagement ring none of them can be use by the recipient and In cue of any rupture of thl agreement the return of such gUts II an awkward dut ) ' . A 1'RETFV GERMAN CUSTOM One of the interesting fJnctons of the up-to-date betrothal ii , however , the shop- PDg : expedition . whee the two mother and . , . = . , , , _ _ ; - . . Calher.ln.law to be , with their respective son and ) daughter , go out on an appoInted r'ornimmg and brIng home a broom , 1 carving knife amid ) fork , ( salt cellar , a bIble , a brass door knocker , a carlle stick and a paIr of bellows. This Is a revival of an old ler- man custom t presenting a young pair with what store considered the seven emblems of ( < thoM virtues that go to make up a Ilerect ( hou.eholl. The shopping , party I concluded by a luncheon to the united families . mind nowadays . Instead of spreading forth the wedding gifts for Inspecton the tiny of the ceremony the brlde's mother two das beforehand ' forehand , issues cards for ( an Informal evening reception . where the presents arc exhibited In the drawing room. As everyone of these are received , thanks phoull , be immune- dlately rendered In the bride's handwriting hantwrlln and , at once , anti , ) recently has been issued , the edict that good Corm commands the brIde to address , all her own wedding invitations and personally superintend their I'ostng. sealing the envelope Iials with white wax , showing ! the IrpreS of ( her Initals alone , wreathed 'I ' 'S kim tiny orange blo Sm8. This seal Is a little souvenir that falls to the share of her I mother , just as her white silk wedding stock- I logs arc given to her youngest sister and . trout her private purse she Is expected ano. i send a fee to the cook who bakes her wedding - I ding cake. - - - 11tXl Jg" lJr\ " . ( ( u.I" . : tiMelepi "u/IINh the "thI I lt ' 1. . Girl .r t lit. I'i . rioil. The dreadful fate that lately overtook a hanlome eastern Igurante engaged to lead ' a corps of stately ballet girls In a comic opera now In process of rehearsal , has spread astonishment and consternation among women bicycler who have heard the stor ) ' . In the early spring the young person In rue ' ton procured a bicycle , Joined a club and soon learned to U8e her 'whcel with de- lhtul proficiency . She made records for the mere fun ot brlaklng them , boasted of always pdallns up the steepest hills , grew as slender , and vigorous as a young Diana , but the first mornIng of rehearsal was tele- ' gated from her Position as the leader at the dancers , to a back row In a crowd ot village maidens . who core on only In the last act.The The bicycle had pl'eo her a trek ! , for , where otherwlso faultless outnes ! had made her figure admlrell and renowned oven under time regulation athlngs of Oo.e silk iloshings . now appeared a series oC curious looking humps and ltmmnps . bulging ridges and knots , with billowy risings all slnklngs , cuI- culatell to outrage any ene's sense of statu- esque symmetry. I was easy enouh to gness the ause of this unusual development. SHOULD EXERCISE CAUTIO On looking Into a book on anatomy , the afflicted girl found every h'dra-headw monster of a muscle dignified b ) a resound- Ing Latin name. The sole cure a physician could suggest was more temperate use oC tha wheel and timime . while the only con ola- tlon the ex-dancer Ills In her trouble Is tIme thouht that nlnet-nlne out of 100 sIster bicyclists must b simiarly supplied with sinewy ornamentatlomm . As a muler or fact her suspicions have ben confirmed by inquiry and confessIons among time enthusiastc women bicyclists of her acquaintance tc the number ot fifty individuals or mmmore whose experIence , very likely , extends to the entre feminine ele- ment on wheel , wlh an aggregation of In- creamed mummacimiar girth and strenth , quite contradicting the ancient insinuation as to who Is time weaker sex. However . to the wheel Is not wholY due thIs growing evolution of the feminine form divine from time old standards of Greek beauty Into hard amazonian brawniness Given a wimeei a few golf sticks anti a tennis ' racquet the moder woman makes all haste ! wIth her phYblcul trausformaton merely b ) I the simple process of brlnglug her mmmuscies 1 naturaly no stouter than good pack thread , and burled deep In soft . tender flesh up to the surface and rounded to the girth of her thumb. WORKING TiE CHANOE. I Is done by time easiest means , that of mounting a slender anti possibly weak young girl on a ble'ce , The first few times aroull time ring she almost drops from the machine wih eximaustion . but In a week she needs no loner instructions or comnmniseratiomm. I she Is on enthusiastic rider , as most women are , wihin a few months her knees will bo IncreasEd a half Inch In circunmfer- ence both just above anti below the joints and the tendons that run along the back of the leg from knee to ankle . begin (0 swel and harden. They hurt a bit at first . from the unusual exercise but after the soreness Is over they enlarge and tlhten with amazIng - log rapidity , till bye and bye the dealt disappears - appears , giving place to a great netlork oC sinews , hard as leather , wrapped tight about the bone and throwing out around the knees and ankles an arrangement of loops , gnarled lumps and hard knobs that utterly destroy what the artists cal "line. " Now . the bigger and harler those sinews grow time more ease anti pleasure tines the rider 111 In using her wheel and If I she Is a woman with a genuine love ot outdoor exercise to balance her de. velopment she will natural ) ' turn to golf sticks anti swing a racquet. The system Is unsurpassed for the purpose ot acquiring healh amid endurance but Is the death blow to beauty. The golfer In a decolete evening gown dIsplays ( shouldr rugged wlh brawn where , dimples used to play hide and sesk , a pair ot wrists the average glove refuses to button over , a forearm thin all hard and a upper- arm . blacksm\h mlht envy. Even the hands , ( rom gripping anti swinging those heavy Iron-tipped .clubs grow a half-Inch broader than nature first shapell them , horny of palmn o , showing fingers that unconsciously catch and shako with a clasp of steel ; this Is the very hand anti arm that Ierhalls a year since was as pink rounded amI taper as a baby's boasting time easy fit ot a five and three-quarter glove I Is no exaggeration of facts to say that In the past foul' year our American women , with the aId . \re especially or the wlmeel gel clubs and a bit of gymnaium work have enlrely reorganIzed their standards of physical do- \'elopment. TIlE PSYChE TYPE A BACK IAThiBEfl . The gIrl tOlay who boasts a round slm waist , sloping shoulders neat small wrists anti ankles with arms and nether limbs . moulded on the flowing curves of a Greek ' psyche , Is no longer approved by her sister ; nor content with her appearance She loses I little time reducing herself to plain bone and muscle , and for the last year the records of measurements In the women's gymnulums show It Is as eaU and la universal to add three Inches to a girl's waist girls meaure In one season of work as I used to be possible to reduce the girth b ) the all of the bed post and stout Ilk corset laces But Just In proportion a our women have gained In bOle and brawn and god health , too , It must lie admitted the loss In grace has been very great HOsier cheeks anll brighter eyes steady exercise bring , but It I Growing more anti more dlUcul ever day - , - 1 lay the artists . to find proper models , alI ) I for ballet master to draw ) lll ! able recruits Ito I to theIr service. Unless ti t 11 stamlarlls of ( ( emlnln beauty are rrlju.t 4 , to meet the I l\as of the mOllern woman , the feminine element bids air ( to dlsaplwnr. wholy from ( II time palnter's canvas antI vanih In an ornamental - mental capacity from the stage , tor \Is wih' ' her strong right nrm the damsel ot the Lu- ( ' ture evidenty means to rull fJ,1 Mime lIves In . \m.rh'l. "I'm clad I live In America . . saitl 1 pretty young woman talking to n , Ihladellhla Inquirer reporter "because i , am , never afraid ( to travel by myself. I.ast ) lar I was In London all went around wIth 0' friend who Is married , anti we were spoken to In an insulting manner every time \0 went out. Paris was stl worse. People speak of the Ircrch poltenes but It Is only n "eneer. The men would get In front of us on every street corner anti smirk and ogle anti chater like n\nke's , Im glad I Ihln'l understand anything they Mid. There are no men like lke the American men , anti I never was so fully able to allpreclate I as I amn . now I have seen those of othcr nations In their own lanlls. leslde8 , the girls are treated better here than anywhere else on eartim antI I don't \ ant to cross time ocean any more , " I.'u N h I" I X .I. . . Hedlngote costumes will pre\'al luring the autumn and winter Alpaca anti mohair fabrIcs arc being made Into very smart toilets both for house amI street wear. SOle ot the newest cpes arc finished with a sailor collar emUng In polntetl revers down the front. Tweeds 1n varied qualtes anti , new stylsh color schemes 11 occupy a Ilrominent place among autumn dress goollf. Evening silks for next season have cx- qulsltely tntEl lresden palers on creammi mauve , blue cern and other light colored grounds Jewer ) ' Is very much worn In Paris at the moment , Dog collars of rhinestone are , wRit fancy pins , again the whim ot time moment. : ledl.ul anti ) lightweight crepons plain and wih colored stripes all dots. 1 I remain tn ashlonable favor but they will not retch the universal popularity they enjoyed thIs sum- mer. . , Many of the pale hued taffeta silks for the autumn have the backgroilmmtls covered with pomadour designs ! In chine effects. Thlse 1 make lovely " ( oioniai" dresses for dehu- tantes , lace-trimmed , and buttoned up the back. A novelty In Parrlslan millinery Is the use of pressed , malden-hall fern . I Is very nat- ural lookIng , for It Is the actual leaf and Is e well pressed that It lasts for some time. WhlS on Faior hats are nol arranged stand- tog up , surroullC1 .by finely plaited chiffon. I Is rumored that Parisians are likely to make conshlerahlo change In the sIze ot sleeves by the tle that heavy wraps become necessary. For the autumn season imowever sleeves will retaIn their very full appear- , ance , most of the fulness showln about the , elbows and more or less fat In elect on the : top or the arm , :1 There will be a great vogue the coming fall and winter seasons for I'eplle\ silks . corded silk all wool . all all wool materials. The silks ha\'e ordinary , mUum and extra heavy reps , these appearIng In black anti , also a wIde range or colors : These will be used for eutre gowns anll' also In combina- ton with other rich fabrics. : 1 And now comes ancther elcIrt1binitng : ' wh'ch itt patentee claims Is i the very : best ) 'el , This new blllllK Is caled "serpentimme velveteen " , ant consists ot a very narrol" coil ot wire i ' - I I I I 1 t31 _ it 2T . . DEVELOPMENT OF ATHLETIC ARMS AND LEGS. run through the lower edge of the bintling this to slght } ' dhtend the lower edge of the gown In AraceCul curves without the addiion ot any other stiffening whatever , or at least this Is what the Inventor claims. Marie Antoinette fichus wi rival the small cIrcle capes all pelerlnes worn as toy wraps wih autumn costumes. SOle of the fchus arc made of plain black or green velvet , others of chameleon velvet lined wIth a bright color , and again are seen those of cordell silk trimmed at all the . edges with knife pleated frills of the sl ( , The fichu hus a roulletl cape effect In the hack , with very long ends that arc crossed In front The 1830 redlnhotes arc very much up-to- date garlents , made of taffeta silk , either 1 plain or cimangeable with a long lutell skirt as long or nearly so as the dress skirt. They 1 arc made mosty In colors the 10st fashionable - : able color at present being reti . verdigris , a : brllnlsh green anti violet blue They are. . unlined and fnished with broad collars and ' revers tailor stitchmeml . or else lined with a contrasting : color. Alpacl Is u 'ed In redingotes for 10rning )1 ear or for travel. Ft'miiiiijie ut. , MarburA unIversity has admited two women , one an Austrian and one a Scotch- woman , to its courses Miss lichen Hay , a laughter oC Colonel John lay , the famous author of "Little Breeches , " has a humorous poem In the August St. Nicholas , which she calls "The Merry Mongoose , " I Is her first contrIbu- ton to the magazine and gives evidence of her lather's wit Mrs. Katharine Lente Stevenson corre- spending secretary of the National Women's Christan 'emperance union. has made a trip oC 3.500 miles In the southern states at- tending fort-seven meetings . giving thirty atrsses and organizing six , Women's Chris- tan Tempcrance unions" . , All this In thirty- eight days. 1 ' ! 'J Musical authorIties are prophesying an- oiIer "Swetiish . Nigimilmmgaie" In Fraken Klora Walientin . who mme to this country three or four years ago from lalmelad , Sweden. She has blen , studying ( diligently ever sInce , and her admIrers are declaring that she Is worthy towel the cloak of Jenny Llnll or Christ ; , Nihason . An English wommman . Airs : ' Ilumtree , has for sOle tme past been engaged In cormm- pilIng a dictionary for jhe . blind In Braille ; Drale type which she has just contpleted , I has occupied her nearly t'o-am $ U half years , working at I four , f\(1 m1 and even six hours a lay. I fills 3,200 pales , contains about 26.000 words antI 'I , , /ake fifteen or / sixteen large volumes. . t Mary Anderson . "OUT tary.-she will always be that to Americamms-imas wl Amerlc1s-has written a volume ot reminiscemmpes ef her dramatic c dramatc career an1 not the least startling dciaration declaraton that she makes In the opening chapter Is "the day upon which I voluntarily turned my beck upon the life of the . lfe stage was the ha ( ) Pleat that I had until then been . " The Home for the hilled at Mapeth has been opened under most favorable circum- stances This institution for blind omen Is the result of the energy of Caharine C , : lc , Donald of Brooklyn , who was educated at the Perkins Institute for the Dlnd at South Uos- ton A monthly magazine called Our 10me Record has been started , edited by Augusta I.ells. lrs. Julia Ward Howe that graceful and gracious "new" wOman , Is famous wherever the club Woman exists for tht way In which she presides at : mmeetlngs . She Is presiding al present over the TOln anti Country club at Newport and Is dong ! It wIth the lame skill and grace site displays when she Is chair- club mall of the meetings of the D .tcl Woman's I a tt . _ _ _ _ _ l ' TIle Big _ Dragoo11. : -J J A Ic\llltounr ' 'tt1vctttitro . : . ; . . ' r'jIrr ; Y-w ; rrr1r : : : ; I 1' : : < . . I ; . , ( Ccl"'lht , 1$9Z by T C. lal".u h , ) When the Irltsh army IUHler Sir Henry . Clinton held poesessia ot New York during ) I. the war of ( the revolution . the tljcent ( region was O\'errun by'he red coat soldisry . The bol ) riders of ( the British arlY p1mm- dered the Inhabiants without mercy , mind more than once got the worst ot Lt for their depredations. For timirty miles along the Ihllon hay a narrow strip of territory which was called the neutral KrOunl. As I was situated I between the two armies , It naturally bec.mt the great foraging distrIct for lawless bands , and its people were all the tme In a state of ( terror. 'he patriots ot that regIon dn'adeo the very sight of a red ) coat , for the ) ' knew that they were to be plundered mind subjected to a good deal of annoyance during the occu- Ilancy ot New York city by the valiant Sir lenr I ) ' . Amons the British troQpers of ( the period was one very tall In stature , and a giant among his fellow comnratles , lIe \as noted for his courage and oftentimes would set oul on a little raid ot his own , Lu which in- curslons he was enerall' stmccessttml BIg Glleon , as this son ot Anak was called , looked Imposing In a dragoon's unlformmm anll he took care to have It very clean and neat whenever he rode out. A rumor that Big Gideon was to make a raid was always sulclent to cause the Inhabitants - tants ot the neutral ground to lock Ilelr coops anti pnt theIr pies multI pastry In the cellar , for he was apt to dhmount before a door and cal for his dinner. h was always "dinner" with the bIg ti ragoomi. ALAN'S VISITOR. One afternoon In early antumn a boy of ( 16 , standing In the shade of a tree which grew near a farmimimouse . saw a single horse- man turn a bend In time country road not far o . ! oft.Time sunlight fell upon time scarlet unltorm ' of a klng's moan and the following moment the youth had wlhdawi Into the house and hurrlely locketl the cellar and the pantry. Intnlton toll hlu who the trooper was as he wal entirely alone. though It was ILel ) that others were not far off , perhaps among the hils near the river. The large black horle that carried the dragoon calt cantering down time real , and In a tew seconds time seller had drawn rein In front of time old-Cashlonel Carmhouse. "hlalloo , there ! " he shoutel tn a gruff voice , as ho threw one leg over the saddle anti lookel toward the house "Big Gideon wants hIs Ilnner , " I happncl that the boy who had seen blm was the only occupant of the house that afernoon , ills mother hatl taken the only horse and rldlen to hIs aunt's , a few miles down the river , and the father was In the American arnmy Alan Shelley , was alone , the only one to oppose the dreaded dragoon ot time klng's regulars. As the sollier ceased speaking , the door upon the porch opened and the boy cale out. "Here . my little rat . " crlel Gideon , at sight of imlni "mion't you know I'm hungry ? So tel your mother to set out one or her famous plnm pies. Ive heard of them , you .500. And I'l come In and try It . " lother Is not at home , sir , , answered the lad . whose face showed that he was cool and detcrmmmimmetl . "Besides I don't think thero's a plum pie In time house " "Il see about that A rarm hOlse wltim- out a plum pIe thIs time oC the year Is a larly , ' ' FORCE VERSUS COURAGU. The dragoon sprang to the ground and lel his horse to time post In front of the farm house his sabre rattling at hIs heels anti his eyes agleal . , with eagerness . Alan Shepley met him on the porch and looked 111 wih amazement at the man who towered above him hue a giant. There was a three-legged stool on the porch and upon this the big red coat sat whlo he wa\01 his hand toward the open door of the main house. "Now , fetch It out lad , " said be , "Il cat It In my lall. Don't be slow about It either Ive heanl about these wonderous pIes your mother bakes . and as Ive never sampled one you'l excuse me If I show a little eageress . " "lut I'vo told you , sir , that we have no plum pies In the house. There's time cellar and yonder the pantry , and IC you wlsh- " "I 'can search the house ? " broke In big Gideomm. "That Is Just what you may do. The eel- lar Is the imandiest you see as the door Is rlht on the porch here. The pantry Is In ! the room yonder " For a moment , the giant red coat dll not know what to say to the boy's frankness . but he evidently thought he was being trifled with , for he suddenly rose and lalll his hand threateningly on the hit of the saber. " " said be "It 'OU make "MimI you . siree , you game of Big Gideon he'l cut you down without - out mercy. So look out , lad I" ! Alan did not quaver at this but replied with time . same firmness be had already displayed - "Come , I know where your father Is. lie's with Washington the rebel whom the king will have Lb pleasure of banging one of these days , " Alan Shepley's cheeks flushed . "When he hangs \'asblnlton. your kIng will be mich older than he Is miov " bo exclaimed. "You red coats cannot crush out liberty In North AmerIca " Ibcrty ' that ? " cried Big Glleon , "This Is treason , boy and I'm a klng's man " 1lng's man or not . air I al going to tel you what I think sir " For I moment It looked as It Alan Shep- Icy would pay dearly for his display 01 pa- tniotism . but the big dragoon sUlllenly thought ot his wants. "ThIs pie the pie ! " he exclaimed " \0'1 compromise on that If It Is wel done , ha . ' I ha. Il crossell his legs and waited , but time boy did not move "Oh you gave me leave to search time hou8e 4'lu you ? " he saiti " 1'1 luke you at your word The pantry first . Come along " 10 , sent an eager , suspicious ( glance down the road , for the predatory bands of "Skin- ner's , " patriot maraudeu , were apt to come In sight. but seeing notiming he left the stool and entered , the houst. Alan stepped forward and opened the pantry. "There Is. time little store house " he remarked - marked looking at the dagoqn. HUNTING TiE PI I dhl not take long for the bIg fellow to thrust his be.d Into the pantry he could do little more , owIng to his great buik anti Alan watched him as he searchctl I , run' ! nlnl hb huge hands along the shelves to the , . Irreparable damage of some precious glass- ware which was shivered on the floor. ' "Now , time cellar ! " cried Dig Gideon turning . Ing from ( the pantry. "I don't like preserves , else I would have stripped your pantry. This way. lad. " lie tramped . back to the porch looking once more up and down the country road , anti halting near the cellar door he bade . the boy unlock It. ThIs door was seclrOI by an oll-fasblol tl padlock , Into which fitted a key of forinid- able size and the door itself was made of the strongest ot oak planks. Alan stooped over the lock and opened I , then rising with the key In his hands he looked at the soldier as he rahetl the door with the greatest ease. The cellar looked lark ( enough antI Big Gdeon called for a candle which the boy brought handlns It to imimn In another moment the klng's regular began 10 dt scend anti In a little whie Alan heard him rum81Inl In the cellar. Well did Alan Shepley know that no plum pie woulll reward the redcoat's Iarch , amid , for a few seconds he stoo'l aud lstened to his movements , now and then c.tchlng glimpses of time flickering higimt , which the gloved hand carried. At lat he heard the plunderer In the furtlermost corner ot the cellar and then he sprang to the door Catching It firmly ho slammed It down antI the moment It struck he was upon I and the padlock snapped In Its old place. TiE IUNO'S IAN TRAPPED. Big Gideon was a prisoner In the cellar . For hal a mInute Alan Shepley seemed overcome with what he hall done , but he knew that the dragoon could not get out ! : ! ,1o\ " wl\ wihout assistamico . no matter bow big aul ! strong he was i'resemmtiy ho hMI'11 somelhlng strike the IIer ) side 0 the . cellar ,1001' , . @ "hero , rou yuu.g ubel , let mo outl" cried a hat.smothrell . Alan lil not sieak . "I'l see that It gels pretty warm for ) ' 01. I'm one of the klng's regulan 0111 you dare not hell me \11.on r like this " "Dire mmtt aim' ? " answered the bo ) ' , as ho wenl toward the door and Irane(1 over it. "non't you 1(10that you have mme rIght to 1lnnller a Ieenselcss ( farm liotmse We are rebel , but ' 0 have rights anti I Intenl to shol ) 'OU , Big Gilcn , that a klng's regular rant have his on1) ' mill the timimo . " Wih this the boy turned amid went toward the draoon's horse nt the post The animal , seclus that It was not his monster was shy at first , but Alln being agile antI quick vaulell nlon ( his back amid was off. The boy knew where was to be ( on nIl a little camll ot the 'Skinimers " who wo111 1t nothing bettor than : to tale care at lug Glean , and he plied the spur hike a jocke IN THE HANnS OF THE IATHOTS , Twenty mhltes later there was a cloud ot lust on the country teal , and olt or It ncar , the Shlllley farm honse cluno a dozen gro- teHluo Icollng fellows , \ \ Io were healeo by the boy. All these drew reIn In front of the Ilou . l. an.1 . Alan pointed wih tllnlph to time cellar. ' 'IIe' there yet , " ho exclalmcd. "Zoo , time /It lIE LED IllS hOuSE TO THE POST IN FRONT O TiE hOUSE. lock Is not broken and the door has not been forced , " The , American riders sprang to the gronnd and surrounded the cellar door . while Alan called to time man he had left Inside. "or course , I'm hero yet , " growled Big Gideon. "how can one break through a stone wal or force a door of oak ? I'm no SJmson , lad . hut I am strng enonlh to show you what It Is to shut up the I < ng's regulars In this manner " Alan opened the cellar and the lushe face ot the prisoner came In sIght. But midway on time steps he lmalted . as he looked up Into the amused faces of limo free lances ot the neutrl ground. "What's this ? " he cried . turn'ng white faced upon Alan Shepley. "What have you . domme little rebel ? " " 1\0 only gone and fetched some of my rrlends to see yotm. You wIll have to talk wih them , llaster Gideon , " The big fellow fumed and growled over the sittmation . but lie had to slbmlt. lie know thal In a short time he would be a prIsoner of war lu the American camp and In a twinkling ho was disarmed and mounted on his own here , but'as a captive. "Just walt till I come back . " he exclaimed . turning anti shaking his fists at Alan Shepley , who stood on the porch with a smie of keen triumph on his rUddy face , "One of the.e days you will lear what r Is to entrap one of the klng's regulrs . " The bo"s smile broadened. I "Good by , Master Gltieon . " he said . "The next time you come wo'n try and have plum pIe. " The big dragoon muttered something about I the future vengeance , then time Skinner cap- taln gave the command to march , and away I I they went wIth their unexpected prisoner I The klng's regular never was able to carry out his threat , for before he was exchanged I the fortunes ot war turned In favor of the colonists , and the neutral ground was safe from time plundering hands of the enemmmy. Alan Shepley became time hero of the ds- ! trlct for his exploit . which clung to him as long as he n\ed. and he never grew tired of telling to his grandchildren how he cauht , Dig Oldeon or 1lng Oeorge's army and turned him over to tie Americans And Big Odeon I SUPIOe never forgot how he failed to get a plum pIe feast at the patriot farm house. ( H OHa : I"XCnOI T. The n'ht or GrIICn.I'I"'rl ' , Boys . . . . . . . . 'IJ ) Ove I Its' c..ut ii Istorimili . ( Copyright 189 , I > lenrleln Christian Wrlghl ) Seventy years age the Hound Hill school at Northampton Mass . , was perhaps the most famols school tn New England The founder , George Bancro , had modeled It upon a celebrated school In Switzerland In the hope that I would prove a starting pint for a broader system of elementary training than had yet existed In America , and everything was done to develop the phy. deal and immoral , as well as the mcntal , traits of the pupils . The school was beautifully sitttated . comim- mantling a superb view , and had besides the school rooms , a gymnasium and play rooms that were kept warm In cold weather and rurnlshel with tools for carpentering here the boys could make bows and arrows squir- reI traps , kites . sleds and whatever their df - - . \ { , iIi,4 ; - \ \ ! \J / t i U4i4x4 ' \ @ / ; ' Il - { ( . ) ! ri 'II ' \ I 1 ( ' ' ; : ' ' 1\ , \ " l 1 ' , " \ , J ' , GEORGE IIANCIIOFT. fancy dicta tel. There were large play grounds , on the slope , of the hi antI here was the \ 'ihlago of "Crormyvilie , " every hOl6e. hut or shanty In which had been built and was owned , by the boys themselves. There were many ! varieties oC architecture In "Cronyville . " but each dwellng had al least a large chImney , and a small stare rOOm , After hours each Ihanty was Its owner's cas- tie where enlertalnments were held , and the guests feasted with roasted corn , nuts or apples which the en lra company had helr d to prepare on the hearth of the \ Ide chil' ney. Sortie times the feast was enlvenell by recitations . poems and addresses by the crack pupils . among whom was at one time tme time future hlltorlan , John Motley , and very oren the festivities would enll In one or those earnest talks that boys f.1 Into sometimes . times when tired out with play hbancroft's assistant and partner In the school was Dr I Co'el. . who superlnlended the course of , sttmtly which wil carrIed out b ) the best teachers procurable In Amerlc3 , Encland anti < France I . The .ehool beclme so 111Il11ar that time best famimiiies In mill I'arls ' of time country sent I their hays then' , but fnandaly It waR not R Hurcn , alhl after Pc'vL'n yesla' trial Dan- ( .t was orchl ( to mib.mmmtiomm ) 1 , Ihoulh hll partner slrugglet on 1 few ( ) 'ear longer. A 1ILECO'lOtlS mNWS. : As a boy Bancroft lUl ) stUIl'd at time Exeter l aellom ) ' ; Inlshlnj his course there ho enterel ) larvard at , 1 : , \11 ratuatell ) In his 1th ) ear ant ) a year later was sent abroad by In\'ar,1 , to fit hluself for a tutor. shill In the unlversl ) . . During his four ) 'earl' absence ho stuIel h\ol'rn al ) orleu. tl langull amttl literatures , Greek Idmiios. ophmy amid mmtiqtmItics ammtl Samoa nmittmrai lmia. tory , lint lie muatic Imietory time ititeciji ub- ject of sttmtl ) ' , anti bent all imis enem'gies to actitmlnlng tie ide a hcno % ledge atm iioetlblo of time sotmmccs ammtl mmiatcmials tittit mmmatio up time records of muomlern imistury , 1)tmnimmg ) his vacaticmms ime vIsited time tlitfcr- ent cotmntries of Etmmope , tra'ehimmg 1mm regimlar stutlent fasimlon , ho otmiml rise at miai it , breakfast by cammttie.lighit , nmmtl timemi tIll thmo mmmormmimmg vitim visits to ltictimre galleries , C1timethl'Ahmt anti mmli the wommtlers of foreign towmmmt ; after a light ltmmmcimeon immi wouitl start agalmm cmi lila mmigiitseeilmg , or visit some per- Comm of mmote , niectimig tInning lila travels al- mimost every distimigtmisiieti mmmmimm iii Emmrope , At nlgimt. it hot too tired , lmo wouiti stutly politics , iamigtmages anti history , amid whemi imo retimimmeti to Anmenlca ho Imami mmimide ittmel good use of lila tlmmc timat ime as etmuippet for almost nimy positiomm 1mm its .ntellectual life. ills obligations to liarvarti let ! imimmi to accept - cept a ttmtorslmip tlmcme , hmicim , imoisever , iirovetl so ml 1st as to fim I to Im I mmi tima t lie only imeiti it emma year. It vas after tlmi experl- emico timat lie foumitied a imitvai sclmool , To hlammcrott the rise amiti eatabiislmmmmemmt of time Ummiteti States as a great mmatiomm lire- flteti itself its die of lImo mmmost ltrliltaut passages of time 'a oniil'mt history , mumtl mm seemmied tiresomime wimlcim should ilttlmigly chronicle that event. FOUNDING A NAVAL SChOOL. hieitles Imis literary retmuirommments , lion- croft Possessed emmminemmt ( Itmaiities for hirac- tical lifo. lie as successively govermmor of Mnssacimtmsetts , secretary of time mmavy , anti for a tithe aetimmg secretary of war. lie aervcti his country as mmmimmister to Great I I rita i mm tl tmrimm g a mm imtm port a mm t pemimitl , a mmd iii every action of Imis Itolitical life slmoved a taiemmt for practicaL affairs , It wits dmiio lie was secretary of time navy timat he fotmntbetl time Umitcii Stimles Naval acmuiemmmy at Annaltolis. l'revlnmms to this there was ho good mtystc'mmi by wimlch thi boys vimo tie- sired to enter time mmavy coultl receive in- stl'tmction in ammy otimem' i.mramich timamm that of practtcai seammiammimlmip. In time oitl miavy time mmmidthies iero taimglmt while mmiloat 1)3' time clmmmplalmimm , ito gave themmi lessons in mItt imours in wmitimmg , ai'ith- mmmetic ammti navigmtiomm. : If time ltttliils vere itlic timey ere reported to time caittain , vimoso tilsCihiiIIO was far frommi gemmtlo. A boy eager to learn co.mltl lmiclc up mm great tleal by aking qiiestiommtt ammti mmoticimig wimat wits goimmg on abotmt himmi , anti sonmetiimmes time officers would volitmmteer their imehp iii a tiiiflctmit suhtject , Later 0mm , each imip Imati one regular school master , wimo mmmatbo time voyage with time simip , t % % cOt ) ' mimitidies beimmg nppointeti to each mmian.ot-war , Timla systemmi wan smmpersetlel by schools , which were establitlmeti at time thiiteront navy yards , mtmtti which tite boys attemimictl 1mm the immtervals of sea tltmty , limit , as 1mm time case of time other mmmetlmotbtm , time in- strttctiomm s'an ticammitory , atid the pupils liath hot tIme ativantagmi of etltmcaticimm enjoycti by time catetmm of time \Vest Poimmt Military nc itl- cmmiy , timommglm it was tmvltiemmt time necesaity for it vmms time same. Bammcrof. brouglmt to time 0111cc of secretary of time mavy his old hove for broatl princi. Plea of educatiomm , ammtl eight immomiths af'or ' he took office time United St.tea Naval acid. emmiy was 1mm full opcratlomm , itlm a corps of instructors of time first mimenit , with a cbni. imiemnent of iitmplls that spoke well for time miatiommal immtcrest iii time caimse. At first tIme course vas for five years , time first ammti Inst of whIch only were spomit at time acatlcnmy anti time rt'it at sea ; but later omm timis was niotiifietl to its itresemit formmm. iimtncroft'ti generous POliCY Placed tIme mien' institution tmltomm a firmmi basis , amid it becatmie at ommce a vital force km time life of time Umiiteti States navy. LITERARY ANI ) DIPLOMATIC CAREER. Ilancroft begamm imiti history whIle still at Rotmntl Hill , mmmd itmmblislmcti time first voitmmne in 1834. h'reviotms to beginmilmig his history ito had pubhisimeti a ammmail voltmmno of verse ; a Latin roatiem' anti a book omm Green politics for time use of time Rounti hill scimool , ammd variotma translations ammd mmiiscellammeotms writ- logs in time different Iteniotlicals of time day , limit mmomme of timeme timIngs hmami seemetl aeriomma work to him , amiti ime brommght to his history a tmiimmti fresh to literary labor ammti a fund of general itmfortmmatlomm timat was irmvaummable. While ime was minister to Great hiritain lie visiteti time state mmrcimives of England , Frammce anti Germany for atitlitiommmti Imistorical mnaterii. Frommi timlim timmio on ito devoted imimmiseif as exclusively to tIme work as time variotma diplommiatie positions timat lme immmcces- alvely filled woulti allow. lIe was mmmade mninister to Prussia , auth afterwarti mimmlater to Germmmany , wimcmm timat cotmmmtry took its place as a ummitemi nation. Sommme of tue moat important. treaties between time United States and foreign powers were effecteti during llancroft's diplomnatic career , ills official atlmiamistratiomi in Imis owmm country - try was also far.reacimimmg , hiesithes the es- tabhisimmmment of time mmnval aeatlemmmy , it was he who , acting as secretary of war , pro temmi. , gave time fammmomms order for General 'i'nyhor to move forward to time westermi bountlmry of 't'exas , wimlchm imatl beemm annexed to thm Ummiteil States after sc'cetllng fremmn Mexico amid set. flog imp as a republic. Gemmeral Taylor's appearance - pearanco on time bortlers was time sigmmal to Mexico that time United Statemi intemmtletl to tiefenti time mmcmv territory , anti eventually led to the war with Mexico , by wimicim time United States received time territory of New Mexico mmmiii Caliiormmia. Bammcroft's tiiitlommmatlc career extentletl over many years , ito being 74 wlmemm , at imis own reqimest , time govermmmmment recalled hmimt fromma the cotmrt of hberiimi s'lmen ito was serving as nmimister. lie tiled in 1891 In imis ft2mi year. Time most famous of imis own commntrymmue'm unitemi in trIbutes to lila mmmeniory , anti the sovereigns of Europe sent wremitims to place upon his cofiln , As , historian , dipiommmatist anti irivato citizen lie had hiommored hmis country as few are privileged to do , ; oji .socit ' OcCt5iOns. V ; t lou cannot - - - : t The oper . - b , , wimour 7 : * ) ) ) whi1fof I h' ' MpAL ! JV ? _ ( now H ! fflWMAU THrAsHioNAuLe PERFUME. Flowery , refreshnQ , deIicro Arid la.&rin' , For scale by druqisrs only , IMPERIALCneWN SAINT LUUSb , 1EYE BROThERS DRUG CO.AGEMTS , ALSOTRY ( WEDDING BftL5\'I'wo \ new lMPRtAL PEACH GLOW. J odor5 , . OPIUM OR MORPHINE HABIt I'MlTLECCLT k PZ3LA1IrtITLT ! C2LD DR. e. B. COLLINIS' PAINLESS OPUM ANTIDOTE ORIGIHAL AND WILY QEHUIHE REMEDY. Dhscosered in 1860. "THEIIIAKI" Hook Free , Otttce 312 , 70 Monroe Street , flUI'A . 'mn ml I PV C. DAWR III. U111uauu1 Iklu t % MO1EY Parlor Gas Burner. -V-.r-V . Ct I AI ilmsmidmsomoSnvitignoHe. , r- , . / .i i uowal ( gmtmmrammtccdi- . I'or Cul , Patent , Tennis &C write to 'sTay MOREY , LAGRANGE ILL. I DR. LOBB'S BOOK FREE IVO all sufferers of Errorsof Foul4 anti JJlsease of.Uamun4 15'omn , .OSfmgelclotU bounti , 'frtmm& . mviii by snail strictly conlldpntiI , & 'ure gunIa. Ileti. Call or write , IrLQBII,1a NIlIhi bil'bl