20 THE OMAHA DAILY IJI5E ! SUNDAY , JULY 21 , 1895.
Mil
WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
YACIITINO 01.UTIIE3.
Fatclilnn Coitnmes of the fmart Hot
Allnnt.
NEW YOUK , July 17. The toilets most
Interesting Just at this moment are yachting
and boating costumes , the season for these
sports being now In full swing , and the
dainty rigs themselves more adorable than
ever. Time was when a pretty girl thought
any old wool gown she was not afraid of
spoiling a proper equipment for yachting.
nut In tbeso sporting times water toilets are
as Important as any In the summer wardrobe
. second'only , Indeed , to wheel clothes and ,
along with materials' never seen on the water
before , the great spreading collars and ep
aulettes of land gowns may bo recognized.
They are m'adu of the brown linens and ecru
batistes that have grown so popular for this
use. And with them the gown texture will
be blue , serge or blue mohair , which stuffs
stand salt air becomingly.
ON FRENCH YACHTS.
In France , where brilliancy of hue Is so
much In vogue , a mohair yachting frock In
cardinal red Is said to be the latest thing ,
and a costume In this tint and texture , late
ly seen , was by no means the bizarre affair
one would Imagine. On the contrary It
was 'of uncommon elegance and distinction ,
and the girl who wore It was tall and slight
to a degree Ray colors , remember , are a
wonderful counterbalance to bones , and she
was of the pale , hazle-eyed type that Is so
adorable In red.
The costume was In two pieces , n short
lialf-nttlnc Jacket that opened over a blouse
vest of white mull , and a plain skirt with
striped scams , and a full umbrella effect at the
bottom. In contrast to this frilly edge the
top of the skirt seemed very scant and the
back was without the stiff godeted effect
hitherto supposed Indispensable to all modish
jupes. Three new godet pleats , however ,
four In fact , this number having superseded
the trio of the feprlng ; but they hung so
easily and simply as a gathering back would
have done , the skirt helnft unllned and with
only the bottom faced and crinolined ten
Inches' up' .
The Jacket had a "ripple" tall and hip
pockets , and was held together In front by
two straps , one slightly above the bust line.
IMPORTANT DETAILS.
For the rest rovers were very small and
sleeves the glgot shape and very big ; and
In the way of accessories the red gown ,
rounded off with a white sailor hat , rather
high In the crown and broadly banded
with red , white wash leather gloves , white
canvas shoes and a veil of blond net , also
white. i
White blond net , by the way , Is the very
latest Importation In the way of veiling. It
has not yet become very popular In New
York , but In Perls fashionable elegantes are
wearing It and a plain veil with small
scattered spots Is advised as a becoming
mesh. The mesh veils with borders are
OP COLORED LINEN.
trying ; ono with a very elaborate border
recently seen on a lady at Saratoga gave her
the look of wearing a mask.
To continue the subject of water gowns ,
duck , pique and brown linen may be recom
mended as effective and modish material.
Blue denim , the very same blue denim
economical housekeepers use to carpet sum
mer .floors. Is also seen , but since denim dis
colors and crumples easily It Is not advised
os a useful yachting stuff.
HOUSE BOAT COSTUMES.
On house , boats , when strolls In the wooJs
along the tow path are In order. It can be
called to stylish account , and a trim way to
make a denim gown Is to follow the plain
skirt and blazer model used for ducks and
piques. Seams should be broad and lapped
over to form a braid effect , as Is the mode
for the other stuffs and revers and cuffs
of white pique will give a dressy finish.
If ono hates the restraints of ordinary
woman's gear and wants to have a really
good time , Irrespective of clothes , a sweater
nnd short full skirt will bo found to con
tribute much toward the bliss of house boat
life :
For chilly moments a sailor blouse of the
same texture as thf skirt , say blue serge
or black bunting , could be drawn over the
sweater , which In one shape buttons on the
left shoulder and has the same high roll
over collar of the man's garment.
A sweater moro becoming to slim women
has abig sailor collar and laced front , but
both styles own the big mutton-leg sleeves
not demanded by all femininity.
Sweaters.aro much In favor for yachting
wear. They are all made of the course
honeycomb wool of the manly garment and
are most effective In whlto and solid colors.
Striped wool .qweaters are seen , however ,
nnd an effectlva fad Is to have the club
colors of some male relative or admirer
woven In or appllqued over the breast , the
sweater In this case being In a solid tone or
white. , ,
A DASHING TOILET.
Ona yachting trip down the bay last
week a dashing little New York girl wore a
white sweater , Vlth a solemn blue owl the
emblem of Commodore Prime's boar , tlie
Anaconda embroidered over her plump
chest. Her gown was of while mohair that
A BAILOR DLOUSE.
glistened In the sunlight like spun glass , a
plain skirt and "middy" coat , with a pleated
back being the model.
A white wool Tarn , topped by a Huffy
pompon , was her head covering. It was
worn well down to the ears , the crown
pulled far over In front , Scotch fashion , and
every time the wind blew It was observed
the little lady wore black silk stockings.
Her shoes we.re patent leather pumps , whose
flat coles and round toes gae an easy , boy
ish look to her slim extremities.
YACHTING BLOOMERS.
An adorable young matron In the same
party , whose sunburnt face and white throat
were divided neatly by a straight line under
her saucy chin wore a plain black cheviot
* klrt. The falousa had bishop sleevei and a
big tex pleat down the front , A great tailor
collar , under which was worn a long black
satin tie , turning low away from the throat.
Scarlet silk lined the skirt effectively and In
lieu of petticoats the dashing little matron
boldly declared she was sporting bloomers.
"Dlack China silk , " she said , and added
that she believed she n d almost given up
petticoats forever. The time Is past for
women to be slaves to clothes , " went on the
stylish reformer , settling a big red thing that
looked like a Tarn that had lost Its pompon
on her had.
"There Is no fun In yachting with frills
and lace constantly wrapping round your
ankles and when I see a woman on a yacht
with petticoats like that and a fixy cotton
frock I know In a minute that she hasn't any
sea legs and that directly she'll get sick
and have all the men around her dosing her
with salts and things ! Women who know
the water always wear wool and good talt
water colors when they really mean busi
ness. White flannel makes a delicious frock
GIRLS AT THE WHEEU
for dressy occasions and the right snade of
red makes a wonderful blot of color on a
boat. Besides the sailors all adore red , EO
that Is something to be considered.
"But remember , " concluded this very
wise yachtwoman , "If you have a jacket It
must be something that can button right up
to your chin when necessary. Otherwise It
won't be the least protection In a chilly blow
and It will fly around In a way that will
make you look a goose generally. "
Apropos of the headgear , ths little matron
declared It was a "bereh , " such as the
Paris students wear In the Latin quarter.
DUCK AND PIQUE.
In the way of linen , duck and pique yachtIng -
Ing and boating gowns , three seen at ths
Larmont club house seemed especially
effective. The linen gown , which was In a
deep flax tint and a heavy butchers' linen ,
was made with an Eton body that fastened
down to the full Isklrt at the- back with a
broad belt ornamented with three enormous
fancy buttons. A yellow duck had the bottom
tom of the very flared skirt and the revers
of the body trimmed with several rows of
narrow brown braid.
A gray pique was most adorable. The
model was a vastly wide skirt In a single
piece , being cut on the length of the goods
and a short sort of reefer coat with white
linen revers and cuffs. With It was worn a
white straw sailor with gulls' wings and
the shoes were white canvas tipped with
gray kid , NINA FITCH.
TAHLh
Valuable Succritlon for the lloste | iWlio
li Kntrrtnlnlnir.
As the hot weather advances state dinners
with their accompaniment of elaborate floral
decorations are a thing of the past.
Some- simple and appropriate .embellish
ment for such functions as the altitude of
the mercury permits are , however , very de
sirable. ?
Flowers of strong odor are barred , be
cause the heat causes their perfume to be
come oppressive , but a very pretty fancy Is
a Dutch luncheon or tea , with a decoration
of nothing but long-stemmed , graceful , pink
and whlto cottage maliLtullps.
The table should be set with a central
scarf of dull red or blue , to throw out the
delicate tinting of the blossoms , or better ,
If one has a handsome mahogany or old oak
table , leave It bare and allow the tulips , In
old delft or pewter mugs or tankards , to
mirror themselves duskily In Its polished
surface. A charming arrangement of tulips
with their own , foliage or with ferns can
bo made upon a silver server or old blue
platter for the center of the table ; or they
can be scattered carelessly and pushed In
among the folds of a center scarf of dull
blue , but it will be bound that the effect of
the mugs of tulips Is really more quaint and
Dutch.
NAPERY AND SERVICE.
If ono has a bit of Russian embroidery In
red and blue this Is the occasion to display
It. The napery should have red and blue
cross-stitch monograms , and the candlea
must be In antique looking sliver , pewter or
old blue candlesticks. The happy woman who
has plenty of antique china and silver will
find no trouble In setting out such a table
Just as It should be. The menu card should
be decorated to conform to ttto decorations ,
with the arms of Holland , a red lion ram
pant on a blue shield , or with a tiny bunch
of tulips In water color.
Maids should serve the table dressed In
the picturesque and altogether delightful
Dutch peasant costume. A little study < of
some of George H. Boughton's pictures will
enable anybody to put these dresses to
gether , colored canton flannel , denims and
sheer lawn being the best materials to use.
The hair-dressing and caps are of the
simplest.
THE MENU.
As to the menu for such an affair , Ger
man delicatessen has become too fashionable
of late to need much rehearsing , but kartoffel
salad , Einearkase ( which , by the way , makes
a delicate and delicious sandwich ) , kaffee-
bred and cocoa are all good Dutch and good
luncheon dishes.
A caterer would , no doubt , get up the Ices
for such a lunch In the form of little wooden
shoes or tulips , and a pretty touch would be
to serve fruits on little wooden plates , such
as the peasants use. Any wood-working es
tablishment would turn them of borne light
colored wood for about 10 cents apiece , and
they could have the beautiful motto of the
Netherlands lettered around the edges In
red and blue , and the arms In the center.
These would make quaint and pretty
souvenirs for the guests.
An appropriate dinner decoration , and one
th&t looks wonderfully enticing in hot
weather , Is a marine fancy. All the cut
glass and ) silver that one can muster , with
pure white china , unless one Is the fortunate
owner of some In shell snapes and with sea
weed decorations , will be needed for this
table.
t COOLING EFFECT.
For the center pleoe have curious shaped
ferns , selaglnella and lichens ( which any
florist can supply ) grouped with the prettiest
sheila and coral you can get , and frozen Into
a block of Ice. The Ice magnifies , brightens
and Indescribably beautifies these simple
forms , till It teems as though one were really
looking through a wave Into the ocean's
heart.
These blocks are placed In shallow tin or
sliver trays to receive the drippings , and tet
upon long , slender mirrors. If these have
narrow frames made tight with beeswax the
blocks may bo placed directly upon them and
the tray dispensed with. The frames can
be concealed with ati edging of the sea-weed-
llk greenery , and an Inch of water poured
upon the glass to obscure Its mirror look ,
and give It the appearance of a clear pool. In
this a few water lilies with their pads maybe
bo floated. They are scarcely "marine , "
but the effect Is charming. They can only
bo used , however , for a day function , as
they shut their snowy petals and take their
beauty sleep about the time society takes
Its dinner. There are some few florists who
can furnish the exotic night blooming water
lilies , and It the expense Is no objection ,
these foreign beauties will make a table
more than sufficiently gorgeous.
CARDS AND FOOD.
Name cards or menus should be cut from
heavy water-color paper In the shape ot a
scallop shell , delicately tinted to Imitate Its
swells and curves , or left In a tiny panel
with a bit of a marine and a dash of sea-weed
across one corner.
Fish , clams , oysters , plstache colored con-
fections , an exquisite pale green and pink
shrimp salad In a shell-shaped silver bowl of
a flashing cut-glass one , are things which
would grace such a board. So accommodat
ing has the man of ices become that one
doubts not he would give you frozen dainties
In any form from a ship of the line to a
star fish ; but probably water lilies would be
the prettiest forms he could use , served In a
dark green pad of spun sugar.
There are dozens of little touches , such as
shell-shaped bonbon dishes , that may be
added , and the hostess would complete the
pretty picture If she would gown herself , like
George Eliot's Gwendolen , "All In clinging
Nile green , and shfmmerlng. "
WOMEN IN SHOE SiOKKS.
( .bservntlons of nil Ivxperionced Chicago
Drnlor.
"When a woman buys shoes she makes a
man tired , " said the superintendent of a
big shoo store to the Chicago Chronicle.
"That's why we have so many young women
In hero to sell shoes. They bear up under
the strain better than men , and they are
cheaper a mighty Important fact when you
remember how long a time Is required to
sell a woman a pair of shoes. The average
woman consumes from forty minutes to one
hour and a half In buying a , pair of $1.GO
shoes. Then the chances arc that ! she'll
come around next day and want the shoes
exchanged. Men are different ? Oh , yes.
A man will como In hero and select and pay
for a $5 pair of shoes and get out without
spending moro than fifteen or twenty min
utes. Although \vo do not have one-fifth
as many men customers as women , our sales
to men amount to about ono-thlrd of the
sales to women. You see , men as a rule ,
buy fewer but more expensive shoes than
women. We get along first rate with men ,
unless their wives come with them. A man
makes a mistake when he brings his wife
with him to buy shoes. Then the deuce Is
to pay , especially In summer. You see ,
women wear such dainty , pointed little things
that all men's shoes are ugly In their sight ,
and they will have their husbands reject pair
after pair , without trying on , simply because
they don't like the looks of them. The price
cuts no figure with women when they are
helping their husbands to select shoes.
"Women are great on exchanging shoes ,
too. Nine-tenths of our exchanging Is done
for the benefit of women customers. No , we
don't have so much trouble with them when
they come back for that purpose , for they
usually have a certain pair In mind that
they tried on the day before. They have
simply changed their minds woman's pre
rogative over night. Practically all the shoes
we sell to women this time of year are tans.
Ninety pair In every 100 we sell are tan
ties. They are cheap and they wear out
fast , and therefore give the dear creatures
the opportunity of coming here frequently ,
which , I must say , they seem to like. We
like to have them , too , tor with all their
fuss wo get our living and our profits out of
their trade.
"Tan shoes for men are about the only
kind we sell at this season , except the patrmt
leathers for evening wear. Gaiters are com
ing In slowly but surely. Patent leather
gaiters are the proper thing for evening
wear , though most men do not realize It. We
sell abouttwenty pairs of. gaiters to every
eighty pairs of lace shoes. 'Button shoes -in
tan are something of a fad Just now. With
the new big buttons they are very dressy.
Men's ties are not worn as much as formerly ,
but many men will wear only a low shoe In
summer , so low tans are manufactured to
supply these sensible fellows , for , after all ,
low shoes are the most comfortable In hot
weather. "
He li Mistaken.
In a divorce case In Cincinnati the other
day Judge Wilson said from the bench :
"Any man who gives all his salary to his
wife Is a fool. My experience has taught
me that the average woman has no Idea of
the value of money. The exception Is the
old German market woman. "
This Is altogether too sweeping , comments
the Atlanta Constitution. Thousands of men
find that the only way to save money out of
their salaries Is to make their wives their
bankers. The wife of the average wage
earner wants a little home for the family
and If her husband will give her a chance
she will do her best to save money for the
purchase of a cottage. There are hosts of
women In this country who will deny
themselves the comforts of llfo rather than
spend the money entrusted to their care by
their husbands.
It Is true , of course , that many women
have no Idea of the value of money , but a
great many men are In the same boat. It
would be easy to find any number of men
who spend a dollar or two a day entertain
ing a crowd of Idlers and explaining to
them the cause of the financial depression
which has left them stropped for funds.
Judge Wilson Is a crabbed old back num
ber. He should resign.
The hnrotr Time.
One of the summer girl's chief responsi
bilities , next to her summer outfit and her
summer campaign , Is her hot weather allow
ance. Sometimes It Is $3,000 and occasion
ally only (30 , Usually she manages to
spend $300 on organdies , smart shoes , frills
and flummery. And the carries most of this
sum with her on all her shopping tours , at
the risk of being robbed and losing all her
summer frills , as well as hearing papa re
mark after the catastrophe : "Humph , that's
EO like a vromanl" The most old-fashioned
I'
of modern women despise to be compared to
other women , so this season's shopping girl
has adopted a new wrinkle. It Is the In
vention of a fair Irish .woman , Hon. Mrs.
P. Pery of Klnwarro , Ireland , 11 Is simply
an attachment consisting of two small
straps , ono to fasten around the wrist and
the other terminating In a ring : to be worn
on the middle finger. The purse , which can
be made any size required .and can be carried
In either hand , rests securely In the palm
of the hand , where. It Is convenient for
frequent use. AH hall to this new pro
tector of summer wardrobes !
IIHAViitNOUKN. : .
Hlltorjr Ulipell * n lifilunlon iTorcnteil In
Mmiy yunrlcrx.
lly Lady Cook , Horn TenneMee C. Clnflln.
It was said by an excellent divine , "That
though many discoveries have been made In
the world of self-love , there Is yet ajmndance
of 'terra Incognita' left behind. " It has
pleased men to arrogate to themselves nearly
the whole of human courage , and to regard
women as very timid and cowardly crea
tures when compared with themselves. Now
we do not deny that some women occasionally
have little affectations which give color to
this opinion. These are scared at meeting
harmless cows or oxen , as though they were
ferocious bulls. They Jump In terror on a
chair at the sight of a mouse. AH these ,
however , are errors of education , Just as
boys are taught from the cradle to despise
girls for their supposed want of bravery ,
and grow to manhood without seeing their
mistake. Yet Mandevllle , In his "Search
Into the Nature of Society , " avers that
"Man , as he Is a fearful animal , naturally
not rapacious , loves peacs and quiet , and he
would never fight , If nobody offended him ,
and he could have what he fights for without
It. " This may be true of man as a savage.
Out civilization gives so much skill and
dissipates so many errors and terrors , that
men have learned to be quarrelsome , courage
ous and self-reliant. It would be natural to
suppose the mothers and sisters of brave
men would be brave also. We look for cog
nate qualities In both sexes of other animals ,
and are not disappointed. Why should man
kind be ati exception ? Why should It be
Imagined that men have all the courage and
women a monopoly of timidity ? Simply be
cause of man's stupendous self-conceit. The
majority have never given the subject a
rational thought. They have excluded
women from their own favorite fields for
the display of bravery , and then prlds them
selves upon their vast superiority. But ,
whenever women have had equal upportunl-
les , they have proved themsclvts no despica
ble competitors of men In physical cour
age , and far ahead of them In moral fear
lessness.
At a time like the pressnt , when public
attention Is largely drawn to a comparative
view of the qualities of bath sexes , It may
be profitable to draw attention to the bravery
of women. We do not desire to. undervalue
the conspicuous valor of men. On the con
trary , we are proud to recognize It to the
full. We only wish to point out that women
are capable of the bume great quality to a
profitable degree , and that , therefore , It
should bs encouraged In them as well as In
men. If the men refuse , let women exhort
each other.
No one can doubt > that moral courage Is
supsrlor to physical. Men exceed In the
latter ; women In tha former , and It Is not
desirable that this should be altered , even
were It possible. Yet It. would add to the
dignity of both If men were stronger morally
and women physically.
A modern historian says , "Moral and ra
tional faculties may alike bo dormant , and
they will Certainly be soilf men are wholly
Immersed In the gratification of their senses.
Man Is like a plant , which requires a favor
able soil for the full expansion of Us natural
or Innate powers " Jf mca hod been shut
out , as women have , from the exercise of
their physical faculties , Is It certain fhey
would have developed excess of physical
powers ?
Notwithstanding her social disadvantages
In this respect , woman has made her mark In
the annals of bravery. History affords
numerous examples of.great heroines , , many
of them , too ; at 'a time , when her general
position was that of a slave , but. . we can only
note a few. Leaena of Attica bore the
severest torture without a word. Telesllla ,
the poetess , made the Argollc women fearless
of death and discomfited the Spartans. Theo
dora saved the Eastern Empire. Artemisia
drank the ashes of her consort. Camilla ,
queen of the Volsclans , was slain fighting at
the head of her troops. Doadlcea encountered
the veterans of Rome. The Maid of Or
leans drove the English from France. Arrla
stabbed herself to encourage her husband to
die. "See. It does not hurt , dear Paetus , "
she said. The tales of martyrdom are fertile
of heroic women. Young maidens met the
most horrible deaths with placid contempt ,
If not with vehement Joy. No fiendish tor
tures that devils could devise were able to
shake the fortitude of numberless brave
women. Whether under Nero or the
bishops , under the Inquisition or the French
revolutionaries , It was noted with surprise
and admiration that the women died more
bravely than the men. With what grace
and calmness and Infinite tenderness for
others did Anne Boleyn and Mary of Scot
land lay their fair necks upon the block.
Even the fearless Raleigh suffers by com
parison , for their queenly dignity excelled
his half-Jocular carelessness.
When we come to physical self-sacrifice ,
to giving one's life to save the most dear to
us , women stand almost alone. Whether to
suck a poisoned wound or to Intervene and
receive the assassin's dagger , or to nurse the
wounded In the midst of battle , or to watch
by the couch of pestilence and death , or to
commit suicide to save their own and their
husband's honor , they have acted without a
parallel on the part of men. Woman's love
Is stronger than her fear , and there Is no
sacrifice which she will not cheerfully make
for him who sways her heart. What she
doessby Impulse man feebly tries to do by
calculation.
But It Is In moral courage that woman shines.
Just as the greater strength and training of
man makes him physically superior , so the
moral strength and training of woman makes
him morally her Inferior. In loyalty , truth
fulness , chastity , fidelity , pity , sobriety ,
honesty and general perseverance In well
doing , she Is Immeasurably above him.
This has been notlcedi by great writers In
every age , and It would not be difficult to
discover why she Is so much man's moral
superior. Mandevllle thought It was because
her brain was more accurately balanced.
We think , however , that It Is largely owing
to a higher standard of moral conduct having
been constantly demanded from her from re
motest times. But she must Insist upon
further physical advancement , and man
should look to his morals , that sexual har
mony may result.
It Is no wonder that' the cowards and. nar
row-hearted among the men are bitterly op
posed to the "New . Wdman. " They see
"tho rod of empire" slipping from their
grasp , and feel that their brute force and
cunning can not save them. Women are al
ready men's moral superiors , and are fast
becoming their Intellectual equals. Their
physique Is Improving moro rapidly than the
men's. Altogether , the outlook assures us
of sexual equality at no far distant date.
Whenever It arrives It * will give universal
Impetus to progress , and mark a new and
happier era for humanity , for right , not
might , will govern , and the worthiest wear
the crown. The brave/ women of the past
and present will then be revered as the daring
pioneers In the dlscovery-t > f a new heaven and
a new earth.
Note * A boilU > Women.
Beatrice Harraden-ls so little and her fig
ure Is so slight that she'looka like a child.
Kansas has twenty-women holding office
as county superintendent of public Instruc
tion.
tion.Miss Mary Simpson is a deputy sheriff In
San Francisco.
Mrs. Russell Sago , wife of the Wall street
millionaire , la an earnest advocate of the
highest education for women.
Clara Starring , who has Just been grad
uated from the West Hoxbury , Mass. , high
school , ha * made a remarkable record , hav
ing been neither absent nor tardy In her en.
tire school life.
The daughter of ex-Lieutenant Governor
Watres of Pennsylvania Is about to go on
the stage under the name of Bertha Galland.
She Is fair to look upon and theatrically
promising. *
Mrs. George William Curtis , the widow ol
the editor , essayist and scholar , may be seen
almost any of these fine summer afternoons
driving a spirited team of horses on Richmond
mend terrace , Staten Uland.
Some young English women have started a
novel business In London. They take the
last season's dresses and make them over In
the prevailing fashion. No now dresim are-
made , and their charges are reasonable.
Miss Mary Oarrett of Baltimore , who Is
generally conceded to bo the richest unmar
ried woman In America , lives In the plainest
and least ostentatious way. She devotes
much of her money and most of her time to
the development of philanthropic and edu
cational schemes.
Women are now being Insured on practi
cally the same terms as men In many of the
leading llfo Insurance companies. Among
the women who are carrying large policies
now are Mrs. J. Sloat Fassett , Mrs , Hearst ,
widow of Senator Hearst ; Mrs , Hamilton
Dlsston and Mrs. Jenness Miller.
fashion Notes.
Four out of five of the silk and lawn waists
of the summer have box-pleated fronts.
Spangles continue to trim handsome street
or house gowns of silk or cloth.
Heliotrope Is one of the favorite tints for
young people , as welj as their elders.
Some spangled chiffon , a rose spray , and an
enormous dragon-fly will this season make a
"duck of a bonnet. "
Wear with your white sailor hat a while
chiffon veil dotted with black Or an all-white
chenille-dotted one.
Gloves are worn longer than ever before ,
on Ing , of course , to the revival of the pretty
custom of wearing ellww length sleeves.
Some of the Immense sailor collars made of
whlto pique are bordered with an Insertion
lace woven to closely Imitate rococo embroi
dery.
The .white canvas pockctbook , belt and
chatelaine bag are high In favor. Many of
the most stylish are mounted In dark blue
enamel or emerald green.
Silk petticoats having the full umbrella
lower part to wear with dainty house gowns
are lined with fibre chamois to produce the
stand-out effect so fashionable at present.
' 'now-white or soft cream-colored book mus
lin , dotted with small silk spots , made up
over taffeta silk , Is extensively used for
bridesmaids' dresses , garden fetes and similar
dressy day functions.
Dressy collets of tiny capes consist of a
small yoke of spangles , a knife-pleated neck
ruche and frill of black silk moussellne and
flowers arranged on either , side of the throat.
Brllllantlne will be the fashionable fabric
fnr fall rrtwns Tne sulrls will be fmm IPII
nine yards wide and Interlined their length
with fibre chamois , when the modish flare Is
desired.
A new fabric for sash curtains and long
drapery curtains Is a Scotch muslin that has
a deep cream-colored ground , on which are
figures In soft , rich colors. The material Is
so wide that one width answers for a curtain.
Among the natty box-pleated boating cos
tumes worn this season are those of English
silk serge , which Is extra wide. Gored skirts
and Eton jackets with elongated fronts are
likewise made of these materials , also very
pretty gowns for cool days , the box-pleats
feather-stitched with embroidery silks.
Coarse , stiff braid , used to bind the bottom
of dresses , will rub the shoes and make them
look shabby In a short time. Soft , finely-fin
ished braids , although costing more , are dis
tinctly more economical , since they not only
wear longer than the coarser kinds , but do
not Injure the snoes.
Charming negligee waists of India mull or
batiste are cut like an Eton Jacket In the
back , with sallir collar and very long shawl-
pointed fronts , like the ends qt a fichu. These
are trimmed with Insertions and edgings of
fine Valenciennes-patterned fancy lace , and
have elaborate ribbon decorations about the
shoulders.
Now that jvery one has bought link cuff
buttons for the summer they ore going out
of fashion. The buttonholes of shirt waists
worn by ultra fashionable young persons are
now brought together by narrow black satin
ribbon , which tics In a bit of a bow. The
Idea Is economical If nothing else.
Corsages of light-colored Liberty satin ,
figured with small Marie Antoinette designs ,
are arranged with a narrow pointed girdle ,
simulated box pleats at the back edged with
narrow gimp , and a square marine collar
without ends , turned over from the slightly
pointed neck. The elbow sleeves have a band
of gimp as a finish , with a fall of lace below.
Broad sailor collars continue In fashion.
They are worn with frocks of all descrlp
tlons. Besides those of grass linen there are
stylish sailor collars In green linen trimmed
with an Insertion of the grass linen. Dull
led linen collars arc also new. If desired ,
these collars may all bo bought with mili
tary cuffs to match.
A waist of chameleon taffeta designed to
be worn at Newport has three box plaits In
front and two at the back. These plaits ,
like the strlght shoulder pieces and the full
drooping sleeves , are Interlined with fiber
chamois , aa Is also the full skirt of black
taffeta with which It Is worn , but In buying
fiber chamois beware of Imitations.
The latest In the way of a sheer cotton
frock Is a robe gown of dotted Swiss. The
moat effective pattern shows a salmon-colored
Swiss , sprinkled with fine black d ts and m de
with a band of white lace Insertion to form
a border. It Is the most stylish thing In
town. Other dotted Swiss costumes come In
pale blue , with black dots and the lace Inser
tion and ecru ; green and bright red are also
treated In the si me way.
Ivory white satin Is a favorite textile for
gowns for full dress occasions , especially foi
young women. Its smooth finish and lustrous
surface giving It a youthful appearance ,
which Is wdntlng In many of the brocades and
moires. It Is a charming gown for a debu
tante , made with a plain flaring skirt , a full
\j-hlte chiffon waist trimmed with white satin
ribbon , and a narrow garniture on the tquare
neck of lace and pink roses. A pretty effect
Is gained by lining the skirt with pink silk.
For cool and pretty gowns qualities that
In the eyes of the majority nowadays lose
noth ng by the additional fcct that tlcy are In
expensive nothing is better than th5 sheer ,
delicate , all wool delaines. Trimmed with
ribbon In any of the thousand 'and one ways
approved by fashion , no more dainty gownn
could be desired. Elderly women can suita
bly wear delaines In dark colors for morning
dress , but the material Is hardly appropriate
for dressy afternoon toilets. In lighter com
binations of color , however , detain : trimmed
with dainty kinds of lace , or with ribbon ,
leaves nothing to be desired on the score of
smartness.
The day of the brooch and chatelaine for
watches Is over. The watch chain again as
serts Itself. Watches no longer swing from
enameled flowers or Jeweled bars. Instead ,
they are .hidden away In a watch pocket and
a black silk cord or a narrow ribbon Is their
main support. Old fashioned broad gold
watch chains are not yet the vogue , but as
time goes on they probably will be. At pres
ent silk cords In black and dark shades are
considered the proper thing. Summer girls ,
however , are substituting for the gold watch
chain a narrow satin ribbon which matches
In color the gown with which It Is worn. A
few exceedingly fine cold chains are seen.
Pique , sometimes known as "linen * cordu
roy , " Is very much worn at all fashionable
summer resorts. There Is a certain firmness
In this material which makes It possible to
cut from It the popular flaring skirt standing
out all around the feet without the aid of
stiffening of any sort , all the fulness at the
top of the skirt being strictly confined to the
back , where It Is arranged In funnel-shaped
box pleats. White , pink , ecru and blue
piques are worn and many of these are
printed with a tiny flower , stripe or dot of
some contractingcolor. . Costumes of this
kind keep clean and In good condition much
longer than cotton goods usually do , but
are far less serviceable than alpaca ; even
white alpaca or mohair Is more serviceable
than a colored pique would prove.
Frmlnlno Notes.
Dr. Emma Richards recently was elected
the first woman member of the board of
education of Norrlstown , Pa.
The empress of Austria , though no longer
a young woman. Is devoting her time to the
study of the Greek language and literature.
The Industry of tapestry working has been
revived at Cnrlstlana by Frlda Hansen. A
new employment has thus been opened for
women and some exquisite work has been
produced at Frau Hanten's factory.
Miss Rose Cleveland , sister of the presi
dent. Is gray haired and has a pleasant face.
She Is rather stout , but her taste In dress Iti
excellent and she Is Invariably attired ac
cording to the latest fashions.
Miss Jane Brownell , a graduate of Dryn
Mawr , has recently published the results of
her researches on the decline of the popula
tion of the United States. The paper has
been noticed and praised by Herbert Spen
cer.
cer.Tho
The demand for space In the woman's
building at tha Cotton States and Interna
tional exposition at Atlanta has been EO great
that the woman's board has been forced to
ask for an appropriation In order to build an
anne * .
Nora Perry , poet and novelist , lives la hli-
torlo Lexington , but epemU much of the
winter In Uoslon , wliaro she Is a favorlin In
Intellectual society. Shn Is a blonde of the
purest typo , with winning manners and a
happy gift of repartee.
Lord Hoscbery's mother , the duchess of
Cleveland , li writing the llfo of Lidy Hester
Stanhope , her mint , who began life as the
private secretary and confidant of William
Pitt , nnd for thirty years had her own exact
way as an Arab sheikh In Syria ,
Years ago a half-starved literary hack lay
wasting away with typhoid fever In a garret
In Paris. A poor actress took pity on him ,
nursed him back to life , Introduced him to her
manager and married him , becoming the wife
-Vlclorlon Sardou.
A woman drummer for a St. Louis vinegar
manufactory Is touring the northwest on a
btcycln and In stunning Parisian bloomers.
She started from St. Louis last January , and
had reached Seattle a week or so ago. She
sends postal cards ahead of her to the grocers.
Louise. Imogen Gulney , the poctesi , who
occupies the office of postmistress at Auburn-
dale , Mass. , was made the object of a boycott
last year , the village refusing to patronize her
postofilcc. Her salary was thus reduced to a
minimum , but her salary has now been In
creased from $1,700 to $2,400.
During the recent trip of Miss Anthony and
Miss Shaw to the Yosemlte , George R. Sperry ,
ono of tlie Yosemlte valley commissioners ,
gave Miss Shaw the privilege of naming one
of the big Marlpota trees. She chose a mag
nificent ono and christened It Susan B. An
thony. A suitable tablet will bo prepared and
fixed on the tree.
Mrs. Ella S. Whitney , one of Iowa's "new
women , " has gone a step beyond the post
mistress. She la a mall carrier. The Postal
department In Washington advertised for bids
for carrying the mall between Iowa Falls and
Cottage , a distance of twenty miles. Mrs.
Whitney entered the contest , and as she was
the lowest bidder she received the award.
Mrs. J. K. Barney of Rhode Island , the
prison evangelist of the National union of the
United States , has become known In England
recently by her excellent work among the
branches of the B. W. T. A. In the Interest
of police reform , especially touching the ap
pointment of matrons In police stations and
prisons. She Is an attractive speaker and a
highly cultured woman.
Mrs. Langtry Is determined to put her
daughter , Jeanne , who Is now 13 years old ,
at school In New York. Mrs. Langtry says
that before she became an actress she h-sl-
tated whether to go on the stage or try mar
ket gardening. She had a famous garden
In Jersey Lane , and had an aptitude for that
sort of profession. But what Interests her
most Is her racing stable and stud farm
at Newmarket , and when In England she
contrives to spend two or three days a week
there.
Miss Edison of Chicago Is"a bootblack on
a large and Imposlrjr scale , She does not
carry a bootblack's kit about with her In
search of soiled shocc , but soiled shoes
come trooping to her establishment , and are
promptly made presentable by her corps of
assistants. She has a force of boys under
her to whom she pays salaries. Men and
women In the business part of the city arc
her regular customers , and she expects soon
to conduct an establishment which will drive
the Itinerant bootblack out of business.
Miss Hlldegarde Hawthorne not long since
published In a magazine a weird sketch
which resembles her grandfather's style
much more than does the work of either of
Nathaniel Hawthorne's children. Miss Haw
thorne Is the eldest daughter of "that dear
little boy , " Julian , of whom Sophia Haw
thorne wrote EO lovingly to her mother. All
the seven children thus "once removed"
from the great novelist are very comely.
Hlldegarde has been a second mother to
those other children of whom her father
once said that they made his home , when
thsy were little , "The House of Seven
Gables. "
Mlsa Luclle Eaton Hill Is a young woman
who has carved a niche for herself In quite
an unusual place. She Is "coach" to the
Wellesley boating crew. She studies
"strokes" scientifically , and It Is confidently
believed by enthusiastic Wcllesleyians that
the Cornell crew would have done well to
study the art of rowing under her , She
was at Poughkeepste while the crews wore
In training there , and she also went to New
London to study her specialty. She comes
of a rowing family , her cousin being Captain
Johnson of last year's Yale crew. She has
charge of all the gymnastic , work at Welles-
ley.
ley.Miss
Miss Jane Addams , the head of Hull house ,
who was appointed garbage Inspector for one
ward In Chicago a couple of months ago ,
has been doing effective work In her new
position. Garbage palls are to be found
where they never were before , and alleys
wear an unwonted appearance of cleanliness.
Every morning at C o'clock a low-covered
buggy , drawn by a sturdy gray nag , comes
to the door of Hull house , and Miss Addams
and her assistant start on their rounds. They
come back for an 8 o'clock breakfast , and
then are off again until 11 o'clock. Every
thing In connection with the Inspectorship
Is done with th.e same methodical neatness
which marks Miss Addams' work at Hull
house , and It Is expected that the Nineteenth
ward will soon be a shining example of
cleanliness and order.
The. tailors have decided not to hold a
convention this year. Will meet In Louis
ville In August , 1897.
on txll 5ociol
"
occtssions.
u cannot go
fo "the opero.
[ without gwnin $
' * whiff of
' .ffilAL .
RURPLEMALEA
THE FASHIONABLE PERFUME.
Flowery , refreshing , delictxTe
c\na Ijxstinj. ,
For sale by drugdiers only.
IMPERIAL CROWN PERFUMERY CO ,
SAir-IT LOUIS.
MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO.AGENTS
ALSO TRY /WEDDIMG / BELL5\ \ Two new
\ PEACH BLOW , j odors.
DOCTOR
Searles&Searles
SPECIALIST 3
All forms of Blood nil I
Skin UUoukos. foreM , gpoti.
I'linplvs , Bc'rufulu , Tumor * .
'letter , Kczeinu nnd HlooJ
I'o'hon thoroughly cleansed
from tliosytiluiu.
iADIh.S given careful
special attention for all
r inuny peculiar ull-
H K.H. Throat
i.lvor. Dygpppil i
' by lal
curs-'a BPu > :
courBO of treatment.
( VITALITY WKAK ) made
WFAIf IV ! FN
WtAK IV ] CPt
ga by I0o clo o uppllca-
ilon la Luslneu ) or study , mental
1 rSla or grtif. BBXUAb EXdKHHUS In middle
life or from th effects of youthful follies , all
nSSw to our MW treatment for lei of
Dr.Searlss &
DOCTOFl'S COLUMN.
Donald. Chicago. I am greatly troubled at
limes ttlth n clutching tcntallon of the henri ,
which iofms to mop th * beMlng. 1'leAio lUcJTit
n remedy.
Take Ciuillno , In ( lirec-drop tlosei , on the
tonmie , three times dallr. Continue tlili I
treatment for two week * , and Increase to flva
drops. Iteport at end of monlli. 1,1
T. A. . . New Yoik.-Kindly tugcest * remedy ,
or Take Thyrodlne , extract of th * Thyrort
Gland , In three-drop doses , three times dally ,
on the tongue. Twice n week take Nathrol-
ithlo Salt , a tahlespoonful In a tumbler of
water one-halt hour before breakfast , twlco
n week. Use Carbolatcd Vaseline every night
and a pure neap with a morning spang bath.
P. IV. . . New York. Will you tell me of
something to rrRUlnte the bowels ?
Nathrollthlo Salt. Two teaspoonfuls In a.
tumbler of water , one-half hour bsforo
breakfast , twlco or three times a week.
Ml * . n. II. , Kalian Clly. What l beneficial
to one who suffers fiom tuul lientVirhc almost
rontlnunlly ; excitable , tcstlrji , and Irregular ap
petite ? ,
Take Cerebrlne , extract of the brain , In
five-drop doses , three times dally. Once OP
twice a week , take a Icaspoonful of N'athro-
llthlc Salt In a half tumbler of water , one
half hour before breakfast.
W. T. PAnKER. M. D.
P. B. All letters of Inquiry on mcdtlal
subjects directed to the Columbia Chemical
Company , WiitOilngton , L . C. . will be an-
Bwcred free , cither In these columns or bx
mall direct.
THE ANIMAL EXTRACTS
Tlic most wonderful therapeutic
discovery since the daxsof Jontier.
CIWiUItlNE. - - From thoUra in.
For diseases of the brain and nervous
system.
Ml-DDI-LlNn , - Prom the Spinal Cord.
For epilepsy , Locomotor Ataxla , etc.
CAHDIM ! , - From tuo Heart
For diseases of the heart.
TUSTINn , For premature decay.
OVAR1NH , For diseases of Women.
TIIYHOIOINH , for Eczema und Impurities of
the blood.
Dose , 5 Drops. Price , Two Drnclims , $1.23.
ALL , DHUGQISTS. Bend for Boole.
i DIIICICIDI : IMI.LS
For Malarial Affections and all Innamma-
lory diseases oflilch fever Is an accom
paniment. Of Inestimable value In neural-
Klu ; for sick headache a specific.
Price , per box of 20 pills. 60c ; 100 pllla , J2.
NATItni.lTlllO 8AI.T8
For habitual constipation , torpor of th
bowels or Inaction of the liver , headache ,
G0 > lrlc dyspepsia. Intestinal dyspepsia.
want of nppctlte , languor and debility. As
a mild , effective purcntlve It has no equal.
Price , too per bottle. \
CU1.U.MIUA CIIKMICAI , COMPANY , .
WiinlilnKtnn , 1 > . < * .
For sale by KUHN & CO. . 15th and Douglas.
PATRONIZE
lly put chasing goods made at the following
Nebraska factories. If you con not find what
> ou want communicate with tlic manufac t.
turers as to what dealers hiuidle their goods. .
BEMIS OMAHA BAG W.
Manufacturers of nil kinds of cotton and bur *
lap bags , cotton ffour sacks and twine a ipeo-
laity. 6H-G1C-C1S 8. lllli-.St.
nitEiriniRS.
OMAHA BREWING ASSOCIATION.
Co.- load shipments made In our own refrlg * .
mtor cats. Ulue Illbbon. Elite Export. Vienna
Export , and Family Uxport , delivered to all
parts of city. '
, bl-lURS , U.ilU\O I'OWDKR.
CONSOLIDATED COFFEE CO. ,
Coffee Hoasters , Spice Grinders , Manufacture
era CU-rimm linking Ponder and German ! > : >
Hop Yeast. Hll and 1110 Harney-st. , Omaha , Neb
U.lltltlAUHN , ETC.
DRUMJIOND C'
put rubber tires and ball bearlnc axlei on their
own make vehicles , and sell a top buegy ( or
J50.00 besides. Write them. ISlh and Hurney.
S. F , C1LMAS.
Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour.
C. E. Dlack , Manacer. Omaha.
J--UJIXJTUKK t'AtiTUItniH.
OMAHA UPHOLSTERING CO.
Manufacturer ! of Parlor Furniture , Lounges ,
Ulnlns Tablei and Folding licda. 28th ave. ,
Uoyd to Shaler Eta.
JCK , t.\Ji CUAlj.
SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND COALCO.
Domestic and Btcam Coal. We Im\e the best.
OlHco 1CO1 Famam-st. Telephone : Office 373 ,
yaul , I7C6. J. A. Doe , General Manager.
//fox iro/m * .
INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS.
Manufacturing and Repairing of all kind * ot
machinery , engine * , pumps , cle\ntor , printing
preses. hungers , shafting and couplings HOI
and 1408 Iloward-st. , Omaha.
PHOENIX FOUNDRY CO.
Flr Hydrants , Water and Gaa Plpea.spcclals.
Holler Fronts and Fittings. Street r'y. car
wheels. Architectural Iron works. OIIlce,307 S.
Iith-it. , Omaha.
'
PAXTON & VIERLIHG IRON WORKS.
Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work.
Qeocial Foundiy , Machine and UlncKimlthi
Work. Knclneem and Contractors for Fir *
Proof Hullcllngs. Office and woiki : U. P. lly.
and Bo. nth street. Omaha.
COCt , CIIIUH.
Manufacturer Uuttrcuei , Spring Dedi ; Jotbtf
Feathers and I'lllows. N. lith and Nlchola *
Sts. . Omaha , * >
THE MERCER. CHEMICAL COMI'ANJ. '
Manufacturers of Fluid Extract' , UlUln.
Byrups and Wines , compressed triturates hypt *
dermlo tablets , pills and scientific * medical nov
elties. Omaha.
r WAT1SH.
CO. ,
209 So. llth St. , Tel. I5 ( . Medeisa Mineral
Water. Carbonated , unequalled. Plain for tabl *
use unsurpassed.
ff 1UIIT ir.trC'lir flHK NKItt'lUlC.
'
AMERICAN DISTRICT TELEGRAPH ,
The only perfect protection to property. Eianv.
Ine It. Best thing on earth. ) Ileducei Insur
ance rates. 1304 Dousla - t.
OVhltALT. t'
KATZ-XEVINS CO.
Manufacturers of Men's and Hoys' Clothing- ,
I'ants , Bhlrt * and Overalls. ItOMll S. 12th si.
I'AI'Kll HUXUii.
THE OMAHA PAPER BOX CO.
Manufacturer ! of all kinds of Paper Iloif ,
Sh-K lloxeii. Sample Cases , Mailing Tables , etc.
Wedding cake and fancy candy .boxes , druggist
BLil Jtwilry boxes , 1208-10 Jones-st. Omaha.
l initTt\
J. H. bYAHS-HEBRASKA SIIIRT CO
L'xcluilv * custom shirt tailors.
J515 C'an nt-st..T Iepbon Kt ,