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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 14, 1895)
N MUDIH. :
tha UORO for Summer nnil the Novelties
for Autumn ,
PARIS , July -I. Tlicro Is a crisis In dress.
The late style has exhausted Itself and need
la U ) start fresh on a new. Which is not
as easy ns Baying Jack Iloblnson , or as
making a novel garment out of an accidental
mlscut , though thu majority of folks may so
For much Is to be considered. There must
be , for ono thing , an understanding between
the dressmakers and the manufacturers , so
that harmony shall exist between the mate
rial and the form. Much also la to be sen
sitively felt ; for If a style Is to run the lo-
Rltlmato cycle of a style , which Is to say a
course of two or three years , It must reflect
social conditions. Various things have been
tried and abandoned. The moment Is dlfll-
Fashion all spring has been turning over
and over the modes of the pai > t hundred years
or so , to sec If among them arc any that may
nerve as a point of new departure. A num-
ber have been set up to try what the publl <
would have to say to them ; models of thi
Louis XVI. and of the 1830-40 period mainly
And 111 us far these tentative models have
been the only novelties of the season.
REJUVENATING OLD STYLES.
Among the principal revivals have beet
fichus , turbans , long shoulder scams callet
of 1830 , and lluwered materials.
The flchu came from thu wardrobe of Marli
Antoinette , which wardrobe , of the Trlanoi
period , was early In March laid before I'ar
Islans In a pluy at the 1'orto St. Martin , ex
qulsltely reconstituted by Doucet. Every
body said of these costumes : Dehuld the nev
styles ! It Is Uoucet that has lanced tin
mode ! Hut It was not so. The movemen
Louis XVI. dwindled down to the flchu , am
this soon merged Into a variation of the littli
shoulder capes familiar for two yean
past. Clearly It Is not a reminder of Marl
Antoinette that the public wants. The loni
shoulder persists , particularly In cvenlni
dress , but It always t-uggests 1830 , and ha ;
not yet reached the stage of annihilation
Its sole significance appears to be a reactloi
from shoulders that have been too high. Th
turban Idea , of more Interest , Is developei
In certain hat trimmings , where the band I
drawn tight under an overhanging crown
and tied at one side with an unprctendlni
bow and a feather thrust Into the knot , Ilk
that worn by Marie Antoinette In a famllla
portrait by Lebrun. Also In an evening coif
fure , with chiffon tied In a rosette on on
side of the head and a scarf passing thenc
across the top to end In another knot on th
other side , a mass of curls being pushed for
ward of the rosettes over eacn ear , In a wa
suggesting a portrait of Lebrun herself , Ate
to the flowered fabrics , they possibly glv
more sign of permanence than the rest
though It' ' would be rash to predict a conques
for what nfs been tried so many times am
has hitherto failed.
THE MANUFACTURER'S DIFFICULTIES
Often enough In the last 100 years the man
ufacturcrs have pressed figured stuff upo
the public , but never with any permanen
success. The fault has not been with th
dressmakers , nor conscientiously with th
public. Western taste has not been able t
In England there Is to bo noticed an effor
to put flowered silks upon the fashion b
artificial forcing , but the movement will com
to naught for the simple reason that the
cannot bo worn. - The only opportunity fo
them Is In the court train. ? , and court train
are not worn every day. The ordinary dres
of English women Is more severely give
over to form and style at the expense c
decoration thaii that of I'arls , and a tallo
gown made of brocade would bo nothln
short of Infamy. Evidently the unpopular ! !
of flowered fabrics Is not understooJ , or els
the recent appeal to Englishmen would no
have been made to help the Industry by wear
Ing flowered veits. The form of men's dres
Is even more antagonistic to decorated stuff
than Is that of the women. It Is about a
nearly an outer skin as It Is passible fo
dress to go. Men look no more pretty tha
women do with a tattoo spread over the al
domen , and even the high patronage of th
prince of Wales , which has been'solicited
cannot make such an Idea acceptable t
fashion. If It Is tried one of two thing
will happen ; cither It will be dropped as EDO
oa the novelty ceases to amuse , or els > e I
will mollfy the form of men's dress , develop
Ing the vest Into a long skirted walstcoa
such as was fashionable when men did for
merly wear brocades. Which It Is likely t
be there Is no need to ask.
The form of carment that sulta decorate
fabrics Is looio and flowing. It Is sum
clently unconstrained by fitting not to sug
Best a cutlcule and to allow the qualities c
the texture to bo displayed for themselves
Thus the decoration will seem to enrich th
fabric and not the person. Such garment
as those the orient has shown us , and th
aesthetic Mea In them , Is at the opposite pol
from that a.rived at by western dress.
EASE AND COMFORT IN DRESS.
Still there Is a growing taste from Parl
'Just now for the comparatively loose'an
flowing. mouses , full sleeves and' larg
skirts are the fashion. The latest Pkli
rays out like a whirling dervish , Therefor
( lowered fabrics have at this moment mor
N SEASHORE GOWN.
than usual hope of eucceis. Is there , the
i struggle on betwetn the western Ideal
form and the eastern Ideal of decoration ?
know nothing about It ; those that live w !
tee. but I may venture an observation.
The field from which fashion draws 1
Inspiration IB Immensely larger than It wa
Once I'arls fashion catered to a small nun
ber In a limited area , and the mass of tl
world wore a costume that never changei
once a social Incident that concerned Frani
nlonu could color the mode ; but now fashlc
Ubori for the round globe and all womei
kind look upon It and to a clientele thi
looks upon France not as the center of tha
world , but as a province of It merely , on
whom local occurrences In Franco have a
correspondingly diminished Influence. Neither
Marie Antoinette nor Louis Philippe reminis
cence * Interest greatly this larger clientele ,
which asks rather what It Is that Is Interest
ing the world ? At any rate , this much Is ?
clear. Paris has seen this spring both these
epochs many times brought to light and
poked back again and only those remaining
out that reflect the orient.
Flowered fabrics , turbans and dervish
eklrts are of the east , the east that today
s In all men's minds. They speak of Egypt ,
of Chltral expeditions , of Slatln Hey , escapes
'rotn the Soudan , of Japanese victories , of
geographical parceling ! out of Asia to thu
THE LATKST FANCIES.
At last the glgot sleeves are In a fair way
of disappearing. Poor old leg o' mutton , It
'ias hung on well ; It had Its virtues , too ;
It was susceptible of n great variety of effects ;
ono could distinguish In a fashionable as
sembly the Wortli glgot , severe and simple ,
and like an old Venetian sleeve ; the Morln-
Hlossler glgot , which bubbled over dcllclously
at top and was gracefully slender below ; the
Rouff glgut , which broke out Into wonderful
butterflies or bows ; the Felix sleeve , etc.
One , at least , of the now sleeves that would
supplant It has not this versatility. When
everybody has got a bishop sleeve everybody
will have got one , and oil will be said and
done. Or , so It eeems , for It Is all of n
width to the wrist , and Is there confined Into
a band. However , there Is no knowing
what the dressmakers may do when it comes
to the pinch , for their resources are Inscrut
ANOTHER SLEEVE NOVELTY.
Another new sleeve , with more seeming
possibilities In the way of design , Is that
which has been transformed out of the bal
loon , and drops to the elbow like a doubled
rullle. It Is enormously wide , and Is par
ticularly beautiful when accordion plaited.
The blouse should bo plaited , too , and as
the edge of the blouse falls In a line with the
edge of the eleeve , the cltect Is somewhat that
of a cape. In a delightful gown for Trou-
vllle Is seen this Idea In modification. The
skirt Is of alpaca , pale mauve , the blouse
of mauve moussellno de sole , accordion
plaited , and falling over the belt all round ,
and the sleeve Is an accordion plaiting of the
moussclinc , that falls to the elbow and IF
confined round the armhole with a huge puff
of deep violet satin , wide over the arm anil
growing narrower underneath , sling shape.
The upper edge of this puff Is set In the
arm seam , violet bslt. The neck has pearl-
embroidered mauve passementerie set In and
pimped In a sort of gusset form , with a point
In back and front , building It up to the ears ,
and over this turns a muslin needleworkecl
Valols collar , with very original effect.
.Close caps are at the top of many sleeves
which throws the fulness down low on the
arm In 1830 style , and at ? It gets more' am ]
more the faehlon to cut shoulder seams vcrj
long , these caps furnish a good way tc
lengthen down a shoulder made too high.
That opera bouffe neck garniture that con
slsts of a magic bunch under each car. ha !
died the death from excess. When such gear
Ing comes to be hung like sausages In tin
shops at a few sous apiece Its day Is don ?
Elegance has supplanted It with the Valols
that Is to say , with a turn-over collar. Cuff :
may be worn or not , but the collar Is obi I
gatory ; It Is the latest chic.
The burning and dlfllcult questions of hov
many godets to put In one's skirt can hi
shortly answered by side plaiting the sklr
all around , or by gathering It all around , n
fome extreme elegantes do who wish to b
" 1830" throughout ; or by plaiting- aroum
the front and sides and having five godeti
In the back , or , finally , by having It plain It
front , a wide box-pleat on each side nn <
godets from thence around. Width Is th
only real necessity.
THE NEWEST FABRICS.
Everything U unbleached and the talk I
all of "string" color. A model dress has th. .
skirt of string colored canvas and a bodlci
and glgot sleeves of string colored taffeta , tin
JULY PROMENADE TOILETS.
boJIce front cut away In the lower part so as
to leave only n. yoke that fastens across over
a bouffant blouse front of mauve gauze. High
neck , with white needlework collar and
Alpaca Is much worn , but mostly for skirts
alone by fastidious people. It makes a useful
skirt ; It looks like silk and Is much more
durable. Hut near the face It does not look
so well ; like all reflecting material , It Is un
becoming and that without being beautiful In
texture. When Jackets are made of It they
have facings of silk or velvet , or even cloth ,
There Is no more useful or fashionable dross
for general wear than an alpaca skirt and
muslin blouse. Hut do not choose black ; a
reflecting surface Is particularly horrible In
black. All tints can be had and white alpaca
Is being very much worn. ADA CONE.
UAKUUN AltCll iKCTUKIi ,
A Nc\v , I'rnctlrnl ixnil Prolltulile Profession
Among the many fields of Industry occupied
each year by women , that lovely , flowcr-
bestarred field , the garden , seems to have
been strangely neglected. And yet there Is
none In which , In many respects , she Is by
her own nature and that of the In
dustry more fitted to succeed , and not only
to succeed In an Industrial sense , but suc
ceed In finding at the same time that great
desideratum a congenial , delightful and
Perhaps she has been frightened out of
this sphere of labor by the spade , but the
spade Is not so deadly a weapon as she might
Imagine. Thousands of women In Europe
work In the fields with spade and hoe and
plow , and , though Americans as a rule pro
fess themselves shocked at this field labor ,
the latest and moso careful statistics prove
that not only Is the death rate very low In
the communities where women are employed
out of doors , but that the sons of thesa
agricultural mothers when drafted Into the
urmy are taller and have better chest and
arm measurement than the sons of the
women who stand behind the counters of the
shops In town , or who sit at a eewlng
machine for nine or ten hours a day. Dig
ging and forking In fertilizers , raking , or
even driving a horse cultivator Is not nearly
such heavy work as most people believe.
There Is no more muscular exertion required
than Is required to drive a bicycle up hill , or
to stand upon one's feet all day at a counter
or a loom.
WORKING WITH HEAD. NOT HANDS.
Leaving such questions aside , however , the
work of a woman In the garden need not be
a great muscular strain at all. Head gar
dener * rarely do the heavy drudgery , which
ls accomplished by day laborers , and garden * *
after being once plowed and harrowed and
the manure spaded In In the spring require
very little more of such labor during the
entire season. Planting seed ) , weeding , hoeIng -
Ing , transplanting , potting , pruning , clipping
and watering are all work which any aver
age healthy , well developed woman can do
without strain or excessive fatigue , and once
tba carden U la order lor tie scisou , Is all
that will bo required. As for the health , pleas
ure and Interest of such work as compared
vlth typewriting we will say or bookkeep-
up , artificial flower making or the like , there
s simply no comparison. The suggestion
leretoforo made as to women going Into gar-
lenlng as a business has always presupposed
ler buying or renting land and setting up for
lerself as a florist or truck gardener , but
such enterprises not only require , to begin
with , n capital which the average woman In
search of a living does not possess , but they
also presuppose amount of business ex
perience which Is rare anywhere , but pe
culiarly rare among the sex which is not
ordinarily given a business training.
HOW TO LEARN.
Usually a woman facing the world with the
used of extracting from It a subsistence for
iprself has only her two hands , a plentiful
ignorance of most things and an earnest
Jeslre to labor. For such a woman the best
advice Is to seek a place ns assistant either
to a florist or a truck gardener , or else as
sistant to the head gardener on some large
private place or In a park. Her work In
green houses should be quite ns valuable as
a man's In potting , watering , fighting In
sects , picking and packing flower1 , vegetables
or fruit , transplanting and making cuttings ;
ndeed. the ordinary quick \vltte4 , deft lin
gered elrl would find such duties far easier
, han learning telegraphy or bookkeeping. T i.s
would furnish her winter work , or In summer
icr duties out of doors would be qtmlly
Ight and pleasant. Uy tlis careful stuly of
the methods of her superior , of the ways of
plants und of books upon the subject , ishe
might without dimculty lit herself for the
place of a skilled head gardener , who Is well
paid for his knowledge and who does no or
scarcely any manual labor at all.
AS A SOURCE OF INCOME.
For women of Intelligence anJ ambition
there Is an excellent future In the profession
of gardener , for the planning of parks and
the laying out of private grounds Is one of
the best pald occupations , and It Is a buslne s
constantly growing In extent In this country ,
as the taste for country life among the
wealthy Increases and there Is an ever-grow
ing belief of the value and Importance of
parks In towns. For this profession as In
all honorable and well paid ones wide knowl
edge and native ability are required , but
these are two qualities within the range of
women as well as of men , and there Is
nothing in the nature of the profession which
makes it unsulted for women ; Indeed , the
wonder Is that hey have not heretofore seen
Its special adaptability to their needs.
Hero no manual labor at nil is required ,
but an accurate and extensive knowledge of
the nature and needs of plants Is necessary ,
a capacity to draw working plans , a knowl
edge of the best methods of draining , sod
ding , laying down ( pads and paths , and a
taste for design. AH this can bo acquired
by any woman of taste and capacity. She
can familiarize herself with the re'.atlve vir
tues of blue stone , gravel and macadam ;
learn the proper grades for the fall of water ,
the best slope for terraces , the distance at
w'nlch trtes should stand from one another ,
and the proper geaxon for setting out the sev
eral varieties of hedges. She must know
what kind of grass grows best under the heavy
shade of trees ; what sort flourishes In the
beating sun , and what kind will lace with Its
woven roots a steep Incline of earth. She
must bs aware of the preferences of vines
for sunny or shady sides of walls ; of the sandy
dry soil loved by one shrub , and tlie marsh }
moisture necessary for the well.being of an
other. She must be an authority on the bcsl
method of treating a lawn and Just how am !
when pruning Is desirable. A quick eye tt
see the possibility of any natural features ol
the land that Is to be laid out Is also mosl
ONE WOMAN'S WIT.
Under the direction of a professional land ,
scape artist an unfortunate gentleman spenl
many hundreds of dollars In a fruitless en
deavor to flll up a marshy spot In his grounds
where a spring persistently melted away tin
cartloads of earth thrown Into It. A womai
who had Just set up for her
self as a garden designer chancci
to visit the l < iuse and begged to bi
allowed to try her hand on the spot , whlcl
she dug out to form a shallow pool Intc
which the waters of t3ie spring were co
lected. This she filled with the Egyptlr
papyrus plant , pink and white lotus , bli
Nile llllles and common pond lll'Ies. Go
fish were put In to keep the water clea
and forget-me-nots , lilies of the valley ai
ferns planted about the edge , and at once tl
unsightly marsh was transformed Into a thli
of entrancing beauty.
Of late there Is a tendency to revive tl
old beautiful fashions of t'ne formal gardi
with Us trellises , alleys , roso-clolsters , cllppi
hedges and geometrical beds , and for the
the taste and capacities of the worn :
designer are especially fitted. She- can
half an acre crtato a "pleasance , " as tl
Elizabethan age used to call these tiny ga
dens , which will grow each year rti beaut
and bo a sort of lovely outdoor dwell ! )
which will add a thousand pleasures to ev <
the most rnoJfst home.
\Vhit : Woman Are Doing.
Quito a number of women In Lewlston 01
Auburn , Me. , are wearing rainy day costum
with skirts reaching only to the tops
their boots without attracting especial attc
Mrs. Baker of Dickinson Courthouse , Vi
aged CO years , has just been appointed m :
rider In her district , which Is one of t :
wildest In Virginia.
Jean Ingclow , whose poetry has charm
the world , Is now living in retirement
England. She recently said : "I have llvi
to thank God that all my prayers have n
been answered. "
A Echoolmarm In MHsslllon , 0. , who h
been teaching the rising generation c-v
since the year 1845 , was recently given
pension of J350 per year by the Hoard
Education of that city.
Mrs. Shaw of whistling fame has a rival
the person of Miss Erroll Stantiope. She
known as "La slflleuse charmante , " und a
plays or whistles to English audiences.
The chief marks of age In Adcllna Pa
are observable about her throat and chin ,
other respects her youthful appearance
that of a woman twenty years younger tin
Amelia Sternecker has Invented a fend
for trolley cars which will be given a trial 1
thu San Francisco electric railways. She
but 17 years of age , but has had a passli
for machinery since her early childhood.
A Chicago woman was fishing from the pi
at Glenwood Springs , Wla. , and brought o
two fine perch at one haul , which so uxclt
her that she backed off the other side of t
pier 1'n eight feet of water. She was prompt
rescued by her attendants. The fish B
A woman drummer for a St. Louis vlneg
manufactory la touring the northwest on
bicycle and In stunning Parisian bloomei
She started from St. Louis last January ai
had reached Seattle a week or so ago. 81
sends postal cards ahead of her to tl
Mrs. May T. Barrls was for several yea
a resident of Lincoln , Neb. , and a student
the State university. For three xearg il
as been studying music In New York Cll >
with the Intention of going on the operatic
tage. She will be In Chicago during tin
ummer , and In the fall ; will go to Paris U
ontlnuc her studies.
In Kentucky a man * has brought suli
gilnst a young woman for breach of promise
'he gallant man threaten ! to have the youtif
ady'n letters read In court and her friends
hreaten trouble If he docs It. The Judge ol
he circuit In which the case Is to be trlei
ays the Jury shall be composed of women
hey being eligible for Jury service under tin
WO.\UN : miUM units.
VorlMtif ; Up Pmni l > lo Trnile nt Summri
"I suppose your business In fncsc thing !
Irops oft after people get out of town for thi
summer , " said u New York Advertiser mai
0 the head of one of the largest firms deallnt
n sporting goods In the country , nodding to
vard n display of tennis and golfing parnpiier
"Hut you don't suppose right , " was tin
answer , "If you think , as we ourselves used ti
hlnk , that our trade Is done after the re
allers have stocked up for the summer rush
"Last summer we got a new Idea that wi
are going to boom this year. U came In om
lay with ono of our traveling men , a pretty
stylish young t'nlng ' , who turned out to bi
ils sister. She wanted to try her baud a
ravillng for us In the summer , and It wai
lot an easy matter to Ml her that she prob
ably wiluld not bo worth her salt to us. Stll
hat was what we thought and we had to re
'use ' to glvo her salary and explained ti
icr that summer was not our season for trade
our business being done In the main month
ahead of the opening of the vacation season
"Hut she was one of the persevcrlni
kind , nn age-end young woman , with con
vlctlons and the courage of them. She sili
wople often find themselves In the moun
alns or at the scasnore or In the countr ;
ulnus half the Implements for playing game :
that they meant to take : others lose or breal
I'nosc they started with ; others become con
verts to one or another sport , and wish ti
provide the means of playing , but canno
lo so at the 2-cent country shop.
"This we believed to be true after sh
spoke of It , though It had not occurred to us
but wo told her we could not Infringe 01
our retail customers' trade , and that sh
better tec some of them.
"Sho did , and came back to say that the ;
would not give her a salary and would no
allow her commission enough to make I
worth while. She proposed to become on
of our retail customers herself , and I ac
ceded. I had become so Interested In he
stlcktoatlveness' and general air of knowln ,
what she was about that I offered her a lln
of samples to start out with.
"It was the middle of the summer befor
she began , but fha did amazingly well.
"This summer she has been out since tii
first summer hotel opened , and when sh
was In the other day she told mo she mean
to go south next winter to the resorts ther
and travel the year round.
'Yes and no. She does and she doesn' '
follow the methods of the man drummei
5he works like the smartest traveling sales
man , but we do not get any expense accoun
for cigars or drinks on her route. She gee
to the various hotels , takes an advantageou
rocm , shows her samples and takes her 01
ders. As she turns In orders for more good
than do many of our small retailers , there I
no reason why she should not have the low
eat net prices , and we give thcin < < o her. "
Tills glimpse behind her back of the sun
nier girl drummer opens up a line of proir
Islng possibilities for the smart young bus
ness woman. A dealer in all the details t
the toilet table , from hand mirrors to col
cream , Is going to send a young woman roun
to the summer hottls to supply those wh
have run out of luxurious necessities of fen
Inlno llfo and do not have the fasclnotlni
high-priced summer shops of Newport or Bo
Harbor to buy from.
A big Now York wholesale clothing hous
has had one of Its largest routes In charg
of a woman for the past two years. Sli
goes over the ground herself , visiting tli
old customers of the firm for which sh
travels and Introducing their goods to ne'
The claim being made that a woman 1
such a capacity would have a number t
nnnoylpg experiences , Mrs. Blank , who I
a handsome young widow , whs asked bov
this. " 1 have found men universally read
to accord me the treatment that a self-n
speKlng woman's manner makes a bid for ,
was her reply. "I've no doubt that If
acted like a soft-brained noodle I should b
treated like ono , but I've had respectfi
treatment and a good stroke of luck 1
business from the first.
"I was a saleswoman and found m
health falling. My physician advised m
being In the open air. I didn't know ho' '
to do anything but sell goods and I had t
go on earning my living and that of m
little b.y , so I suggested going on the mat
The hpad of the firm was amused , but
asked for a trial and finally got It an
since then have had no trouble In keepln
my place on the traveling force.
"It seems to me that my line of woman'
cloaks and outer garments generally can b
Fold much better by women than by men
women wear them and women see thel
good points better than a man can sec an
can talk them up better than ho can.
"Yes , they are heavy things to liamlli
but I can always get a bell boy In th
lintel to help me , or some one wherever
am to do the lifting for me.
"Much better , thank you. I haven't bee
so well In years. At the beginning of m
going 'on the road' I did what most wome
would do , arrived In Chicago , tired an
train sick , swallowed a mouthful of fooc
drank two or three cups of tea and starte
nut nn my work. But I soon learned bettc
than that. When I have bpen travelln
several hours now , I rest on my arrlva
take a Turkish bath , have a good dlnnt
not of tea ami toast , but of soup and fis
and meat and vegetables and the tliliif
that go to the civilized light dinners we ai
learning tt ) eat In this country , devoid <
pastry and with variety enough to tasl
good and be nourishing. The next mornln
1 start In on my rounds und I sell mm
goods than If I'd gone about tt fagged 01
the afternoon before.
"I guess the traveling salesmen thet ;
selves are to blame for the current Idc
that a 'drummer' must spend his emplo ;
' ' ' all the ,
ers' money 'treating' customers
good many purchasing firms have long sine
begin to think that It might bo their ow
money that paid for these treats , Anywa ;
I have found It possible to sell goods will
out bribing the buyers and Instead c
taking the purchasers out to see the slghl
I am qulto often Invited to dlno with the
Nnvcltlri for tlitt llmulolr.
A dainty little chest of quartered oak <
satin wood Is a novelty and If one is a co
lector , a necessity as well.
Fitted with lock and key , It proves a pa !
receptacle for the costly treasures which tl
Industrious person Is getting together pe
haps of stamps , perhaps of book plates.
The chest Is * about twelve Inches high ,
foot wide and two feet long ; If made :
order the dimensions must bo regulated t
the"slze of the collection.
The prettiest ones are made of quartere
oak , with panels of eatln wood , upon whlc
a design has been etched , lu-ually In varlet
colors , possibly a gay cavalier and his laO
love , or cuplds and a bower of roses an
design that Is effective will answer the pu
pose. A motto your own and your coa
of-a nil a must form the decoration on tl
top of the chest. Put In one corner of yoi
morning room or boudoir the chest will ce
talnly adorn Hie spat and elicit many s
exclamation : "Oh , how -pretty , and what
It for ? " It Is always to nice to have
novelty to Introduce to a friend.
Stll another new thing a charming lltt
frame made of oak for holding photograph
that Is , Just four pictures. It Is one fran
with four divisions * . The pictures are sllppt
in at the back , and each one has a gla
over Its face. The affair Is really foi
frames In one ; It IB hung upon the wall ar
the little shelf which forms the upper pa
of the frame , serves nicely to hold son
trifling ornament , perhaps a little vat-e , wll
a few flowers. Our English friends are qul
devoted to this style of framing pictures
Intimate friends and lately they have bet
The very newest ribbons have edges of J
Black silk crepe-llsse ribbon Is anoth
novel variety largely used to veil trlmmlni
of brilliant color.
The very latest duck suits are combine
effectively with pique.
Black silk blouses with enormous sleevt
and sailor collar , brier-stitched with whll
or pale lilac are worn with afternoon co
tumes of half mourning.
Rich and stately redlnt'ote costumes wit
braided cloth or. plain velvet tabller. lion )
are heralded by returned Importers as among
: lie fashionable features of the autumn anJ
The belt buckle Is here In all Its glory. .
The latest In the way of an Inexpensive
liuckle Is ot filigree silver set with Imitation
turquoise. This , fastened to a belt ot white
silk , Is very fetching.
Some of the prettiest stockings In both
black and colored silk and In lisle thread
have lengthwise strips of Insertion extend
ing up over the Instep and circular band ;
above to accentuate the supple curves ol
Mohair will prevail as a very popular drcsi
material for fall and autumn house gown ;
and coat and skirt costumes for the street
This material will appear In heavier weights
and with a very high luster , and of almost ;
Half sleeves made of lawn , muslin , net , In
sertlon and lace are this season trcaitvntl }
worn Indoors with gowns which have an ar
rangement of very convenient rcmovabli
sleeves from the elbow downward. The am
shows through the transparent substitute will
Dressing-cases for stateroom use are inaili
of pale green linen as well as of blue. Thesi
are bound with white Upo and embrolderei
In white linen .floss ) with the names of thi
contents of the various , pockets and semi
sentiment like "Bon voyage" on the outside
Tall glasses In beaker form , some of then
six feet In height , are set In the corner o
reception rooms to hold clusters ot troplca
grasses and palms , or a few long-stemmei
American Beauty roses , or a group of equallj
long-stemmed lilies. These glasses are modi
of a highly polished pale-gren Bohemia !
crystal , and make a very effective picture.
Ono of the new styles of princess dresses I :
made of striped glace silk patterned with plnl
rosebuds. The large sleeves are set on be
low the shoulders , giving the long effect
which threatens to destroy the one comfor
of full sleeves. The back Is finished with i
frill of black lace which forms a basque , am
a wide lace cape-like flounce starts on eacl
side of the front and hangs full across tin
The midsummer silks are here and selllni
at prices to tempt all womankind. Then
are dainty white taffetas , showing a fine
colored stripe and a shower of indlstinc
blossoms ; wash Indlas , which are cool am
refreshing In color and design , and gorgeou
plaids In faint shades of lllau and grecn-
the mosl fetching things for a summer girl'
Large sailor and Marie Antoinette collars o
velvet wlil appear upon next season's gown
and costumes exactly In the same style a
those of lace , lawn , and grass linen are no\
worn. They will bs silk-lined and Inter
lined with crinoline. Some of the newes
sailor collars that accompany recently won
costumes fresh from Europe have tabbed o
stoll fronts Instead of sharp-pointed end
that reach the b ° H.
There Is a new hat for garden parties show-
In the most exclusive shops. It Is a plctur
hat , and Is made of filmy white silk mull wit
an Indication of delicate white- straw towar
the edge of the brim. The straw Is ver
light and ot openwork design. It gives a
effective finish to the cloudllke loops of mul
The hat Is entirely In white , and has n
trimming but the loops and ends of mull.
Some new and very pretty "picture" dressc
for jummer luncheons , garden parties , pic
nlcs , and similar occasions are made I
colonial , chatelaine and other unique styles
The full skirts are simply but artistically ar
ranged , and all the "picture" portion display
itself In the bodice and sleeves. Some c
these dresses are made of crepon , silk-war
lienrletta cloth , cr fayetta In sllvor-blu <
mauve , cream color , or nun's gray.
The Delft embroidery on coarse linen wit
Its handsome stitching In shades of blu
Oriental cotton. Is likely to remain long I
fash'on. The bunches of flowers In ono corn :
and the transverse band across the opposlt
angle give an effective appearance to a tea
cloth , which Is still further Increased by th
border , a sort of shell pattern which , who
the surrounding linen Is cut away , forms
series of well shaped scollcps round th
Very elegant are the open fronted Josphln
tea gowns made of flowered or striped tal
fell silks. These make beautiful tea gown
worn over blouse fronts and petticoats e
canary yellow or rose plflk China silk boi
'derecl with two rows of cluny lace Insertloi
The sleeves are In bishop's style , with dee
frills of lace falling from the elbow. Th
back portions of the gowns are en prlncess (
with a narrow but deeply pleated Wnttea
fold falling from between the shoulders be
low a lace yoke.
Stylish costumes of pale buff colored Hue
duck with small dots of black scattered ova
Its surface are made with full untrlmmc
skirts' ' and Eton jackets with fronts slight !
tabbed. The Jacket turns back with rover
that are finished with five rows of the narrow
est black ribbon , which also borders the edg
cf the large marine collar and the wrist
ot the mutton-leg sleeves. The yellow strai
sailor hat en suite Is decoiated with a ban
and loops of wide black velvet ribbon , and
cluster of field daisies ot the "black-eye
The most Interesting side of fashion Just a
present Is the ono which must present Use !
m the near future , and while It l < yel to
enrly to predict with any degree of certain !
the coming variations In thu modes , the Parl
budgets of fashion continue to predict th
revival of the Louis XVI. styles , anl w
may safely expect the appearance of th
old-time gowns In the early autumn. T
be sure , they will bo modified somewhal
and gracefully adjusted to suit present con
dltlons of taste , but that docs not alter th
fact that fashion Is to repeat herself , eve
It It Is net quite on the old lines.
Blues that rival the cobalt of a mldsumme
sky , pink like the changing tones of the afte
glow of sunset , greens that repeat ever
varying tint of turf and foliage , grays lik
the morning mists of the ocean , and ever
conceivable shade of brown these are th
summer colors favored of fashion , most frt
qucntly seen In union with other tonci
friendly or otherwise , black In many case
acting as mediator , this sombre dye beln
brought Into requisition even with the dalr
tlest tints and frabrlcs , Its presence impartln
character to every class of material , whethc
diaphanous or substantial.
I ninltilno ttotrfl.
Mrs. Wlllard , wlfo of the English actor. I
founding In London a convalescent homo fo
actors and actresses.
The Misses Brlce- daughters of Senate
Brlce , will make a bicycle and kodak tour c
the rural districts of France during the com
Miss Margaret Carlyle of Toronto , Canada
an experienced factory worker , was recent !
appointed factory Inspector. She was en
dorsed by the Woman's council.
This year the number of women who ex
hlblt In the Champs Elysees salon Is TCI
In 1875 It was 312. The number of picture
by women admitted Is double that of las
Emma Nevada has an 8-year-old daughtei
Mlgnon , who Is said to rival her romantl
namesake In the witchery of her dancing , he
blrdllke voice and her dazzling beauty.
Mies Gertrude Pearson of Boston has re
celved the prize for the best written work I
general chemistry out of a class ot fifty-tw
or more students of the College of Physician
Blanche , countess of Rosslyn , In memor
of her husband , and the duchess of Suthet
land , In memory of her father , the late eai
of Rosslyn , have enriched Rosslyn's famou
chapel by the addition ot two beautlfi
stained glass windows.
Princess Nazle of Egypt , one ot the mot
Intelligent and progressive women In Europi
Is a constant laborer for the advancement c
her sex. She Is now arranging an exhib :
of the work of Egyptian women at the AI
The duchess of Cleveland , mother of th
prime minister , Is engaged In writing a HI
of Lady Hester Stanhope , who was an Intei
estlng figure In society as well as In hlstorj
The duchess Is a thorough literary workei
and her book must not be expected for torn
time.Lady Henry Somerset was re-elected pre !
dent of the British Woman's Temperanc
union. Lady Somerset and Mis * Wlllar
have both conditionally accepted Invitations t
speak before the fifth meeting of the grea
intl-alcohol congress , to be held In Base
Switzerland , August 20-23.
The queen has presented the Victoria war
of Charing. Cross hospital with two prints e
hcrtelf one taken as an Infant In long robei
and the other with the duchess of Kent
the age of 15. These prints are exceeding !
good , and the style of the clothing add
much to their plcturesqueneis.
The Massachusetts State Federation ha
just adopted Mrs. Shttlurk's "Woman's
Manual" a Us authority In parliamentary
procedure , thereby following thu cxnmpU of
the New York Federation , which did the
saino thing last autumn. A new edition of
this book , revised and enlarged liy Mr ! <
Shattuck , Is to be Issued soon.
Lovers of Sir Walter Scott arc now prcm-
lii'd the reminiscences nt Ml Skc-ne , daugliter
of one of the grcnt novelist's most valued
and InMmate friends. Scott's life was AI
dramatic as his novels are fascinating , And
Miss Shone recalls ono of Its most thrllllr.K
payees tin day when he itooJ , as It
sconud. a ruined man.
H. H. the Nawab Shums-c-Jchan , Begum
of Murshedabad , and widow of the l.ilc
Nawab Nnzlm , has made a donation ol
Rs.25,000 toward building the proposed Hostel
for the Indian female medical students
at life Campbell hospital , Calcutta. Thi :
Begum wishes that the Hostel should be
called the "Lady Elliott Hostel. "
Mlfs Mary Oarrett of Baltimore , who Is
generally conceded to be the richest un
married woman In America , lives In the
plainest and least ostentatious way. She 1m ;
no hobbles or pet extravagances and devotes
much of her money und most of her time tt
the development of various philanthropic and
Fannlo Crogcr Is the literary sensation ol
the day nt Berlin. She has only written OIK
volume. Just published , containing four shorl
stories. But before the publication she was
already celebrated. Some other tales liar'
been read at conversaziones , anil had beer
much admired. She Is an Austrian , Is the
daughter of a civil engineer and has been 01 ;
Mrs. Ada Tims Klockcr , the noted turf-
woman from Independence , In. , hasn't t
superior In the entire country In rcportliif
race meetings. Her services ore preferred
by eastern papers to those of any oliiei
correspondent , and when she was making re
porting races her steady work she was
sought and employed by all the leadlnt
papers of the country.
Mrs. George William Curtl * . the widow o !
the lamented editor , essayist and scholar
may be seen almost any of these fine summei
afternoons driving a spirited team of horses
on Richmond Terrace , Statcn Island. Amoiu
her neighbors Mrs. Curtis has w-on nimosi
as much renown for her good horfemanshli
as she has for her deeds of kindness om'
charity to those In need and distress.
MUs Nellie Murphy of the Antlers hotel
Colorado Springs , Is said to bo the onlj
woman room clerk In a largo hotel In tlili
country. In England the position Is oftei
held by women , and travelers will remembei
how they have little tea parties In the roomi
Just back of the office. There they drink toi
and eat bread and Jam , at the same tlmi
keeping an eye on the office window and i
lookout for the wants of guests.
Those lagging geniuses who never learn ti
be methodical in their habits will learn will
pleasure that May Wllklns Is of the sam <
disposition. She says that she can wrlti
1,000 words a day easily enough when she 1
obliged to do so , but that she needs the spu
of necessity to keep her at work. She I
not "strong-minded" In other ways. She li
fond of open fires and of doing dalnt ;
There are at present five Russian womei
who study astronomy In their native country
One of them Is Countess Bobrtnskl , who I
quite rich , and spends a great deal of mono ;
for astronomical purposes. Three othe
ladles , Mines. Maxlmova , Teplljakowa am
Bronskaja , are busy with the study of tin
planets. The fifth is a Mrs. Shllowa. Thel ;
essays were so satisfactory that they havi
been labeled "Important" by the Academy o
In the medical department of the Unl
vcrslty of Michigan the two who stood high
est were Melyll Shle and Ida Kahn , glrli
from Kluklang , China. They are probablj
the only two co-eds of their race In America
and are noted In Ann Arbor for their ablllt ;
and brightness. They came to America
three years ago at the solicitation of Mis :
Howe , a missionary from Ann Arbor , am
hardly knew a word of English. Each Is 2
years old , and they graduate next year a :
M. D.'s. Their plan Is to return to Chlm
and spread the Christian gospel among thel !
countrywomen as medical missionaries.
irtiSIAS MUCH THE K.l.VK.
Vyrlttcn for The Bee.
Oh , thou of Greclnn-Hclles long renowned
Three thousand years have passed , swee
Since from the lyre , heralded with Joy ,
The freaks of nymphs , the Kods of unclon
Of mountain Nlnds and Dlnnn's bow ,
Hellenic bcnuty ntxl Nloblan woo ;
Of direful Jewels nnd the Spartan miss ,
The sculptured nude nnd long-fought sallmh
Stand of the goddess nnd the maid divine ,
Ilyronlc love , lllrspaslu's ancient line ,
Shades of old glory and where phebui
Where Nlails roamed nnd llory Sappho sung
Land of ilevntlon , and Calypso's name ,
The Gods of 1'lmler , and Minerva's fame ;
Wake not to glory or to mortal scars ,
Or ever rouse the thundei bolts of wars.
Yet , bards , bards Immortal , note this west
crn land ,
Where love-sick school ma'ms crush th (
tyrant man ;
Shine forth UKiiln and note reform's wave
The blkn. the cap , the pnntalooned zouave
The KladiatorcKs In for equal rights ,
In royal backstay , legslngs lashed In tights
Hauled tuut is she , the major newly made
To fathom facts or dart a new erusade. '
Ye doll of leisure , artless , nlrey. fay ,
Uon't never doubt , but nun has ha 1 Ills day
Grand Island , Neb.
Switzerland grants one divorce to everj
twenty-two marriages , as compareJ with one
to 132 In Holland and ono to 677 in England ,
An Alabama Judge has created consterna
tion among the bachelors of that stale b >
deciding that If a man puts his arm around
the waist of n marriageable woman It is
prlma faclo evidence that he has proposed tt
The bishop of Coventry , England who re
ccntly got married , made everybody laugl
on his return from his honeymoon by preach
Ing a Bcrmon on the topic "Tho Penitent * !
The wedding of Dr. W. L. Vroom and Mia
Blanche Miller the other day In the ok
Paramus Dutch church at Rldgewood , N. J.
was the first wealing In the church since thai
of Aaron Burr and Mrs. Theodora Prevost
113 years ago.
The custom of celebrating gold and sll
vcr weddings belongs to Germany. The sll
ver wedding occurred on the twenty-fiftl
anniversary und most people could ceiebrati
that , but to bo fifty years married was i
sort of event In a family. The hoim > wai
quite covered with garlands and the neigh
bors from far and near were assembled.
The residents of Salem. Ga. , claim to hav (
had the prize father among them In the per
son of Mode's Andrews , a colored man , whc
died there recently at the age of 104. The )
point with pride to the fact that the old mai
obeyed the ccrlotural Injunction to such goo.
effect that before- his death ho was the fathei
of more than 100 children.
Magistrate Hause of Jeffer&onvllle , Ind.
broke the record on the Fourth , when hi
married sixteen couples. Ho anticipated i
very busy dny , as seven of the younj
men had paid his fee In advance In order U
secure their place In the column , Amotif
the candidates were Thomas Love and La
vlnla Melissa Moore of Louisville. Eact
had been married tiefore and each" ha ] ton
children. In order to make the ccremonj
more Interesting all of the children at
Edward L. Doyle married Rcglna Dome
drom In Buffalo some twelve years ago
After a brief honeymoon ho left her to seel
his fortune In the west and deferred wrltlm
until ho became ashamed to write at all
Mrs. Doyle had a daughter born and afrei
waiting nearly five years without hearlni
from her husband , applied for and securei
a divorce. She lived a single llfo with lie
daughter In Buffalo. Two days ago i
stranger sought her out and revealed hlmsel
as her former husband. Explanations wen
made by Doyle an ] the couple came to tin
Falls on the 2d last , and were again united
I'llrmlvn UliUUeM ,
Habitues of all western race tracks fron
St. Paul to New Orleans nro familiar will
the "gnu" that Captain Illcc , the Arkanra1
horseman , has been ruled off the turf "fo
pulling Ills whiskers. " Few pportHmen nr <
better known than Captain It. It. Hlce , on <
of Wlione most valued postesHlonH l his trc
mmdouR erop of whUkerg. They roach be
low his knees nnd their extrt-niltlex lire no
Infrequently fe n waving through betwcui
his legs when the * captain rtun'Jn faohiK '
mnart breeze. Captain nice , henldett hli
vtrintr of ruco liarfc * . ownn an linmrntic cot
ton plantation nrar Llttlu Itock , and In om
of the most popular men la Ills vast clr
cle of acquaintances ,
THIS nOUTOIl'S COLUMN.
X. V. V. . C'hlinK"My noivous ymcm l * ome
wlmt Impaired. i\mtilvntrl by the imc of wlilc-
ki-y. tolxtccn nnd other i > xrirmii. t'lcmw ilvs | I
nn of n inmily adnrttd to my mm.
Take Testlnc , In five drop doses , three
times dully. Itcgtilulo ( hi- bowels by use ot
Nathrollthlc Salts , once or twlco a week ,
In-fore breakfast. Slop drinking.
S. J. K. , Phlla.-Tako Tcstlne In flvo drop
doses , three times daily on the tongue for
two weeks. Then Curdlne , extract of the
heart , in three drop doses , for the same )
tlmo and In * amu manner. A dose ot
Nathrollthlc Salts unco or twlco a week
would bo advisable.
1C. L. S. , Phlltt.-t'lonso ntnto a ttmcily for gns
trie < ly rpi | ln und cvii tlMllon | ?
Take NnthroUthtc Salts , ono taespoonful
111 half tumbler of wntcr halt hour before
breakfast and dinner , three times a week.
Cerebrlne , extract of the brain , In flve-droj >
< lncs three time ? dally.
I ! ( ' . T. , ClovPliiinl - Am trouhlpil with rim-
| il s no my fare , t'lcnuo cueKiot o cute.
Take Nalhrntlthlc Sails In two teaspoon-
fill dosoa in a tumbler of water twlco a week
before brrakfatt. Use borax and water as
a lotion ; n traspoonful of borax to n quart
of warm water.
It. A. C. . New Yorl < I hurt my Imrk liy n nton
fnlllnx on It , nml nm nfiiild of epliiul illwune.
Cnn you name u rcmpdy ?
Take Mcdulllnc , extract of the Spinal
Cord , In flvp drop doses , three times dally.
Ute hot bathing and friction with Turkish
W. T. PAUKEH. M. D.
P. S. All letters of Inquiry on medical
subjects directed to the Columbia Chemical
Company , Washington , L > . C. , will be an
swered free , either In these columns or by
THE ANIMAL EXTRACTS
Tlic most wonderful therapeutic
discovery since tlicdnjsof Jctliicr.
CI-ljlHlltlNI ! . . . i.-rom tlicllr.ilti.
Fur diseases of the brain nnd nervous
MKDULMNK , - From the Spiitnl Cord.
For epilepsy , Locomotor Atnxln , etc.
CAHDIM- , - - l-Vom the Heart.
For diseases of the heart.
TliSTINH , For premature decay.
OVAIMNK , For diseases of Women.
TIIYDOIDINI- Kciiuma and Impurities of
Dose , B llrops. Prlc : . Two DracliniH , $1.00
ALL DRUGGISTS. Send tor Boole.
i-'Kiiiciciiu : rn.i.s
For Mnlarlal Affections nnd all Inflamma
tory diseases of which fever Is nn accom
paniment. Of Inestimable value In ncural-
glu ; for Kick headache a sneclllc. fc
Price , per box ot 20 pills , COc ; KKTpllls , $2.
For habitual constipation , torpor of the-
bowels or Inaction of the llvt-r , headache ,
gastric dyspepsia , Intestinal dyspepsia ,
want of appetite , languor nnd debility. Aa
a mild , effective purgative it has no equal.
Price , DOe per bottle ,
COI.U.MIIIA CIIKMIUAI , COMPANY ,
\VlKlllllgtOII , I ) . O.
For taliby KUHN & CO. , ICth and Douglas.
By purchasing goods made at the following
N'cbiiiska factories. | If you cannot find what
you want , communicate with the manufac-
turcrs pa to what deulcra handle their
11 A OS. I' HI1 1 1 > A.\l > TH'JXtt.
Manufacturers of all Itlnds of cotton and bur.
tap bags , cotton ffour eacks anil twine a spec
ialty. CU-C1G-C1S S. lltti-St.
OMAHA BREWING ASSOCIATION.
Ca.1 loud shipments made In our own refrluo.
rater cms. Blue Itlbbon , Kllte Kport , Vienna
Export , and Family Uvrort , dcllveted to all
parts of city.
' / ( * / . ll.t IftXtl
Coffee Roasters , Spice Grinders. Mnnufactur-
< -i8 German Baklnp I'owilcr and Gcrnmn Dry
llcp Yeast. 14U nnd U1C Harney-it. , Omaha , Neb
VJillltlMI KH , KTV.
put rubber tires nnd boll bearing axles on their
own make vclilck-s , niid sell i top bugcy for
tSO.OO benldca. Write them. IStll and Harney.
S. F. OILMAN.
Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour.
C. K. Dliick. Manager. Omal
Manufacturers of Parlor Furniture. Loungej.
Dining Tables anJ Tolillng Ucda. ! Sth avc. ,
IJoyd to Klinlcr Sts.
1CK AX It COAL.
SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND CO.ILCO.
Domestic nnd Steam Coal. We have the best.
Ofllce 1CO1 Farnnm-sU Telephone : Olllce 373.
yard , 17CO. J. A. Doe , General Manager.
INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS.
Manufacturing and Itepalrlng of all kinds ot
machinery , engines , pumps , elevntois , printing
presej. hangers , shafting and couplings HW
and 1403 Howard-lit. , Omaha.
PHOENIX FOUNDRY C ) .
Firs Hydmnts , Water nnd das Plpcs.upcclals.
Holler Fronts nnd Fittings. Btiect ry. car
wlit-eln. Arcliltcctuial lion works. Olllce,207 a.
IGlh-st. , Omaha.
PAXTON & VIERLIHG IRON WORKS.
Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work.
Ocni-rnl Foundry , Machine nnd Illarkimltli
\Voik. Hnglnccrs and Contractors for Fir *
Proof llulldltigs. Otllce and works : U. 1' . Ity.
and Bo. 17th trt t , Ornulm.
Manufacturer Mattresses , Hprlng Beds ; Jobber
Feathers and Pillows. N. Hth and Nicholas
BID. . Omaha. _
THE MERCER CdEHICAL COMPANY.
Manufacturers of Fluid Extracts , Elixirs.
Byrups und Wines , comnreueed trlturalrs hypo
dermic tablets , pills and sclentlllo medical nov
MtXHIt.ll , WATKlC
BEDESSA MINERAL WATER CO. ,
JW Ko. 11th st. , Tel. 2M. Medca Mineral
Water Carbonated , unequalled. Plain fur tabl *
xitnir II-.ITCII , mill KKunuK.
' " '
The only perfect protection to property. Exam *
Ino It. IJest thing on earth. | Iteduces Insur-
r.nce rales , IMt Uouglag-it. *
O I'.i/M 1.1. I'A TUKIiii.
KATZ-iNEYINS. CO ,
Manufactuiers of Men's and Hoys' Clothing.
Pants , Bhlrts und Oveinlls.1202-212 S. 12lh st.
THE OHUIA PAPER II3X CO.
Manufacturers of all kinds of Paper Doxes.
FhtU Hones , b'ampte Cases , Mailing Tables , etc.
Wedding cake und fancy candy boxes , drugxlit
, iifl Jewelry boxes. KOS-10 Jones-kt. , Omaha.
Exclusive custom shirt tailors.
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