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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 14, 1895)
WOMAN'S DOMAIN. N MUDIH. : tha UORO for Summer nnil the Novelties for Autumn , PARIS , July -I. Tlicro Is a crisis In dress. The late style has exhausted Itself and need la U ) start fresh on a new. Which is not as easy ns Baying Jack Iloblnson , or as making a novel garment out of an accidental mlscut , though thu majority of folks may so think. For much Is to be considered. There must be , for ono thing , an understanding between the dressmakers and the manufacturers , so that harmony shall exist between the mate rial and the form. Much also la to be sen sitively felt ; for If a style Is to run the lo- Rltlmato cycle of a style , which Is to say a course of two or three years , It must reflect social conditions. Various things have been tried and abandoned. The moment Is dlfll- cult. Fashion all spring has been turning over and over the modes of the pai > t hundred years or so , to sec If among them arc any that may nerve as a point of new departure. A num- 1830 DRKS3. ber have been set up to try what the publl < would have to say to them ; models of thi Louis XVI. and of the 1830-40 period mainly And 111 us far these tentative models have been the only novelties of the season. REJUVENATING OLD STYLES. Among the principal revivals have beet fichus , turbans , long shoulder scams callet of 1830 , and lluwered materials. The flchu came from thu wardrobe of Marli Antoinette , which wardrobe , of the Trlanoi period , was early In March laid before I'ar Islans In a pluy at the 1'orto St. Martin , ex qulsltely reconstituted by Doucet. Every body said of these costumes : Dehuld the nev styles ! It Is Uoucet that has lanced tin mode ! Hut It was not so. The movemen Louis XVI. dwindled down to the flchu , am this soon merged Into a variation of the littli shoulder capes familiar for two yean past. Clearly It Is not a reminder of Marl Antoinette that the public wants. The loni shoulder persists , particularly In cvenlni dress , but It always t-uggests 1830 , and ha ; not yet reached the stage of annihilation Its sole significance appears to be a reactloi from shoulders that have been too high. Th turban Idea , of more Interest , Is developei In certain hat trimmings , where the band I drawn tight under an overhanging crown and tied at one side with an unprctendlni bow and a feather thrust Into the knot , Ilk that worn by Marie Antoinette In a famllla portrait by Lebrun. Also In an evening coif fure , with chiffon tied In a rosette on on side of the head and a scarf passing thenc across the top to end In another knot on th other side , a mass of curls being pushed for ward of the rosettes over eacn ear , In a wa suggesting a portrait of Lebrun herself , Ate to the flowered fabrics , they possibly glv more sign of permanence than the rest though It' ' would be rash to predict a conques for what nfs been tried so many times am has hitherto failed. THE MANUFACTURER'S DIFFICULTIES Often enough In the last 100 years the man ufacturcrs have pressed figured stuff upo the public , but never with any permanen success. The fault has not been with th dressmakers , nor conscientiously with th public. Western taste has not been able t assimilate them. In England there Is to bo noticed an effor to put flowered silks upon the fashion b artificial forcing , but the movement will com to naught for the simple reason that the cannot bo worn. - The only opportunity fo them Is In the court train. ? , and court train are not worn every day. The ordinary dres of English women Is more severely give over to form and style at the expense c decoration thaii that of I'arls , and a tallo gown made of brocade would bo nothln short of Infamy. Evidently the unpopular ! ! of flowered fabrics Is not understooJ , or els the recent appeal to Englishmen would no have been made to help the Industry by wear Ing flowered veits. The form of men's dres Is even more antagonistic to decorated stuff than Is that of the women. It Is about a nearly an outer skin as It Is passible fo dress to go. Men look no more pretty tha women do with a tattoo spread over the al domen , and even the high patronage of th ' prince of Wales , which has been'solicited cannot make such an Idea acceptable t fashion. If It Is tried one of two thing will happen ; cither It will be dropped as EDO oa the novelty ceases to amuse , or els > e I will mollfy the form of men's dress , develop Ing the vest Into a long skirted walstcoa such as was fashionable when men did for merly wear brocades. Which It Is likely t be there Is no need to ask. The form of carment that sulta decorate fabrics Is looio and flowing. It Is sum clently unconstrained by fitting not to sug Best a cutlcule and to allow the qualities c the texture to bo displayed for themselves Thus the decoration will seem to enrich th fabric and not the person. Such garment as those the orient has shown us , and th aesthetic Mea In them , Is at the opposite pol from that a.rived at by western dress. EASE AND COMFORT IN DRESS. Still there Is a growing taste from Parl 'Just now for the comparatively loose'an flowing. mouses , full sleeves and' larg skirts are the fashion. The latest Pkli rays out like a whirling dervish , Therefor ( lowered fabrics have at this moment mor N SEASHORE GOWN. than usual hope of eucceis. Is there , the i struggle on betwetn the western Ideal form and the eastern Ideal of decoration ? know nothing about It ; those that live w ! tee. but I may venture an observation. The field from which fashion draws 1 Inspiration IB Immensely larger than It wa Once I'arls fashion catered to a small nun ber In a limited area , and the mass of tl world wore a costume that never changei once a social Incident that concerned Frani nlonu could color the mode ; but now fashlc Ubori for the round globe and all womei kind look upon It and to a clientele thi looks upon France not as the center of tha world , but as a province of It merely , on whom local occurrences In Franco have a correspondingly diminished Influence. Neither Marie Antoinette nor Louis Philippe reminis cence * Interest greatly this larger clientele , which asks rather what It Is that Is Interest ing the world ? At any rate , this much Is ? clear. Paris has seen this spring both these epochs many times brought to light and poked back again and only those remaining out that reflect the orient. Flowered fabrics , turbans and dervish eklrts are of the east , the east that today s In all men's minds. They speak of Egypt , of Chltral expeditions , of Slatln Hey , escapes 'rotn the Soudan , of Japanese victories , of geographical parceling ! out of Asia to thu west. THE LATKST FANCIES. At last the glgot sleeves are In a fair way of disappearing. Poor old leg o' mutton , It 'ias hung on well ; It had Its virtues , too ; It was susceptible of n great variety of effects ; ono could distinguish In a fashionable as sembly the Wortli glgot , severe and simple , and like an old Venetian sleeve ; the Morln- Hlossler glgot , which bubbled over dcllclously at top and was gracefully slender below ; the Rouff glgut , which broke out Into wonderful butterflies or bows ; the Felix sleeve , etc. One , at least , of the now sleeves that would supplant It has not this versatility. When everybody has got a bishop sleeve everybody will have got one , and oil will be said and done. Or , so It eeems , for It Is all of n width to the wrist , and Is there confined Into a band. However , there Is no knowing what the dressmakers may do when it comes to the pinch , for their resources are Inscrut able. ANOTHER SLEEVE NOVELTY. Another new sleeve , with more seeming possibilities In the way of design , Is that which has been transformed out of the bal loon , and drops to the elbow like a doubled rullle. It Is enormously wide , and Is par ticularly beautiful when accordion plaited. The blouse should bo plaited , too , and as the edge of the blouse falls In a line with the edge of the eleeve , the cltect Is somewhat that of a cape. In a delightful gown for Trou- vllle Is seen this Idea In modification. The skirt Is of alpaca , pale mauve , the blouse of mauve moussellno de sole , accordion plaited , and falling over the belt all round , and the sleeve Is an accordion plaiting of the moussclinc , that falls to the elbow and IF confined round the armhole with a huge puff of deep violet satin , wide over the arm anil growing narrower underneath , sling shape. The upper edge of this puff Is set In the arm seam , violet bslt. The neck has pearl- embroidered mauve passementerie set In and pimped In a sort of gusset form , with a point In back and front , building It up to the ears , and over this turns a muslin needleworkecl Valols collar , with very original effect. .Close caps are at the top of many sleeves which throws the fulness down low on the arm In 1830 style , and at ? It gets more' am ] more the faehlon to cut shoulder seams vcrj long , these caps furnish a good way tc lengthen down a shoulder made too high. NECK DECORATIONS. That opera bouffe neck garniture that con slsts of a magic bunch under each car. ha ! died the death from excess. When such gear Ing comes to be hung like sausages In tin shops at a few sous apiece Its day Is don ? Elegance has supplanted It with the Valols that Is to say , with a turn-over collar. Cuff : may be worn or not , but the collar Is obi I gatory ; It Is the latest chic. The burning and dlfllcult questions of hov many godets to put In one's skirt can hi shortly answered by side plaiting the sklr all around , or by gathering It all around , n fome extreme elegantes do who wish to b " 1830" throughout ; or by plaiting- aroum the front and sides and having five godeti In the back , or , finally , by having It plain It front , a wide box-pleat on each side nn < godets from thence around. Width Is th only real necessity. THE NEWEST FABRICS. Everything U unbleached and the talk I all of "string" color. A model dress has th. . skirt of string colored canvas and a bodlci and glgot sleeves of string colored taffeta , tin a JULY PROMENADE TOILETS. 3 boJIce front cut away In the lower part so as to leave only n. yoke that fastens across over a bouffant blouse front of mauve gauze. High neck , with white needlework collar and cuffs. Alpaca Is much worn , but mostly for skirts alone by fastidious people. It makes a useful skirt ; It looks like silk and Is much more durable. Hut near the face It does not look so well ; like all reflecting material , It Is un becoming and that without being beautiful In texture. When Jackets are made of It they have facings of silk or velvet , or even cloth , There Is no more useful or fashionable dross for general wear than an alpaca skirt and muslin blouse. Hut do not choose black ; a reflecting surface Is particularly horrible In black. All tints can be had and white alpaca Is being very much worn. ADA CONE. UAKUUN AltCll iKCTUKIi , A Nc\v , I'rnctlrnl ixnil Prolltulile Profession fur Women. Among the many fields of Industry occupied each year by women , that lovely , flowcr- bestarred field , the garden , seems to have been strangely neglected. And yet there Is none In which , In many respects , she Is by her own nature and that of the In dustry more fitted to succeed , and not only to succeed In an Industrial sense , but suc ceed In finding at the same time that great desideratum a congenial , delightful and healthful occupation. Perhaps she has been frightened out of this sphere of labor by the spade , but the spade Is not so deadly a weapon as she might Imagine. Thousands of women In Europe work In the fields with spade and hoe and plow , and , though Americans as a rule pro fess themselves shocked at this field labor , the latest and moso careful statistics prove that not only Is the death rate very low In the communities where women are employed out of doors , but that the sons of thesa agricultural mothers when drafted Into the urmy are taller and have better chest and arm measurement than the sons of the women who stand behind the counters of the shops In town , or who sit at a eewlng machine for nine or ten hours a day. Dig ging and forking In fertilizers , raking , or even driving a horse cultivator Is not nearly such heavy work as most people believe. There Is no more muscular exertion required than Is required to drive a bicycle up hill , or to stand upon one's feet all day at a counter or a loom. WORKING WITH HEAD. NOT HANDS. Leaving such questions aside , however , the work of a woman In the garden need not be a great muscular strain at all. Head gar dener * rarely do the heavy drudgery , which ls accomplished by day laborers , and garden * * after being once plowed and harrowed and the manure spaded In In the spring require very little more of such labor during the entire season. Planting seed ) , weeding , hoeIng - Ing , transplanting , potting , pruning , clipping and watering are all work which any aver age healthy , well developed woman can do without strain or excessive fatigue , and once tba carden U la order lor tie scisou , Is all that will bo required. As for the health , pleas ure and Interest of such work as compared vlth typewriting we will say or bookkeep- up , artificial flower making or the like , there s simply no comparison. The suggestion leretoforo made as to women going Into gar- lenlng as a business has always presupposed ler buying or renting land and setting up for lerself as a florist or truck gardener , but such enterprises not only require , to begin with , n capital which the average woman In search of a living does not possess , but they also presuppose amount of business ex perience which Is rare anywhere , but pe culiarly rare among the sex which is not ordinarily given a business training. HOW TO LEARN. Usually a woman facing the world with the used of extracting from It a subsistence for iprself has only her two hands , a plentiful ignorance of most things and an earnest Jeslre to labor. For such a woman the best advice Is to seek a place ns assistant either to a florist or a truck gardener , or else as sistant to the head gardener on some large private place or In a park. Her work In green houses should be quite ns valuable as a man's In potting , watering , fighting In sects , picking and packing flower1 , vegetables or fruit , transplanting and making cuttings ; ndeed. the ordinary quick \vltte4 , deft lin gered elrl would find such duties far easier , han learning telegraphy or bookkeeping. T i.s would furnish her winter work , or In summer icr duties out of doors would be qtmlly Ight and pleasant. Uy tlis careful stuly of the methods of her superior , of the ways of plants und of books upon the subject , ishe might without dimculty lit herself for the place of a skilled head gardener , who Is well paid for his knowledge and who does no or scarcely any manual labor at all. AS A SOURCE OF INCOME. For women of Intelligence anJ ambition there Is an excellent future In the profession of gardener , for the planning of parks and the laying out of private grounds Is one of the best pald occupations , and It Is a buslne s constantly growing In extent In this country , as the taste for country life among the wealthy Increases and there Is an ever-grow ing belief of the value and Importance of parks In towns. For this profession as In all honorable and well paid ones wide knowl edge and native ability are required , but these are two qualities within the range of women as well as of men , and there Is nothing in the nature of the profession which makes it unsulted for women ; Indeed , the wonder Is that hey have not heretofore seen Its special adaptability to their needs. Hero no manual labor at nil is required , but an accurate and extensive knowledge of the nature and needs of plants Is necessary , a capacity to draw working plans , a knowl edge of the best methods of draining , sod ding , laying down ( pads and paths , and a taste for design. AH this can bo acquired by any woman of taste and capacity. She can familiarize herself with the re'.atlve vir tues of blue stone , gravel and macadam ; learn the proper grades for the fall of water , the best slope for terraces , the distance at w'nlch trtes should stand from one another , and the proper geaxon for setting out the sev eral varieties of hedges. She must know what kind of grass grows best under the heavy shade of trees ; what sort flourishes In the beating sun , and what kind will lace with Its woven roots a steep Incline of earth. She must bs aware of the preferences of vines for sunny or shady sides of walls ; of the sandy dry soil loved by one shrub , and tlie marsh } moisture necessary for the well.being of an other. She must be an authority on the bcsl method of treating a lawn and Just how am ! when pruning Is desirable. A quick eye tt see the possibility of any natural features ol the land that Is to be laid out Is also mosl necessary. ONE WOMAN'S WIT. Under the direction of a professional land , scape artist an unfortunate gentleman spenl many hundreds of dollars In a fruitless en deavor to flll up a marshy spot In his grounds where a spring persistently melted away tin cartloads of earth thrown Into It. A womai who had Just set up for her self as a garden designer chancci to visit the l < iuse and begged to bi allowed to try her hand on the spot , whlcl she dug out to form a shallow pool Intc which the waters of t3ie spring were co lected. This she filled with the Egyptlr papyrus plant , pink and white lotus , bli Nile llllles and common pond lll'Ies. Go fish were put In to keep the water clea and forget-me-nots , lilies of the valley ai ferns planted about the edge , and at once tl unsightly marsh was transformed Into a thli of entrancing beauty. Of late there Is a tendency to revive tl old beautiful fashions of t'ne formal gardi with Us trellises , alleys , roso-clolsters , cllppi hedges and geometrical beds , and for the the taste and capacities of the worn : designer are especially fitted. She- can half an acre crtato a "pleasance , " as tl Elizabethan age used to call these tiny ga dens , which will grow each year rti beaut and bo a sort of lovely outdoor dwell ! ) which will add a thousand pleasures to ev < the most rnoJfst home. ELIZABETH BISLAND. \Vhit : Woman Are Doing. Quito a number of women In Lewlston 01 Auburn , Me. , are wearing rainy day costum with skirts reaching only to the tops their boots without attracting especial attc tton. tton.Mrs. Mrs. Baker of Dickinson Courthouse , Vi aged CO years , has just been appointed m : rider In her district , which Is one of t : wildest In Virginia. Jean Ingclow , whose poetry has charm the world , Is now living in retirement England. She recently said : "I have llvi to thank God that all my prayers have n been answered. " A Echoolmarm In MHsslllon , 0. , who h been teaching the rising generation c-v since the year 1845 , was recently given pension of J350 per year by the Hoard Education of that city. Mrs. Shaw of whistling fame has a rival the person of Miss Erroll Stantiope. She known as "La slflleuse charmante , " und a plays or whistles to English audiences. The chief marks of age In Adcllna Pa are observable about her throat and chin , other respects her youthful appearance that of a woman twenty years younger tin she Is. Amelia Sternecker has Invented a fend for trolley cars which will be given a trial 1 thu San Francisco electric railways. She but 17 years of age , but has had a passli for machinery since her early childhood. A Chicago woman was fishing from the pi at Glenwood Springs , Wla. , and brought o two fine perch at one haul , which so uxclt her that she backed off the other side of t pier 1'n eight feet of water. She was prompt rescued by her attendants. The fish B away. A woman drummer for a St. Louis vlneg manufactory la touring the northwest on bicycle and In stunning Parisian bloomei She started from St. Louis last January ai had reached Seattle a week or so ago. 81 sends postal cards ahead of her to tl grocers. Mrs. May T. Barrls was for several yea a resident of Lincoln , Neb. , and a student the State university. For three xearg il as been studying music In New York Cll > with the Intention of going on the operatic tage. She will be In Chicago during tin ummer , and In the fall ; will go to Paris U ontlnuc her studies. In Kentucky a man * has brought suli gilnst a young woman for breach of promise 'he gallant man threaten ! to have the youtif ady'n letters read In court and her friends hreaten trouble If he docs It. The Judge ol he circuit In which the case Is to be trlei ays the Jury shall be composed of women hey being eligible for Jury service under tin new constitution. WO.\UN : miUM units. VorlMtif ; Up Pmni l > lo Trnile nt Summri "rsorin , "I suppose your business In fncsc thing ! Irops oft after people get out of town for thi summer , " said u New York Advertiser mai 0 the head of one of the largest firms deallnt n sporting goods In the country , nodding to vard n display of tennis and golfing parnpiier lalla. "Hut you don't suppose right , " was tin answer , "If you think , as we ourselves used ti hlnk , that our trade Is done after the re allers have stocked up for the summer rush "Last summer we got a new Idea that wi are going to boom this year. U came In om lay with ono of our traveling men , a pretty stylish young t'nlng ' , who turned out to bi ils sister. She wanted to try her baud a ravillng for us In the summer , and It wai lot an easy matter to Ml her that she prob ably wiluld not bo worth her salt to us. Stll hat was what we thought and we had to re 'use ' to glvo her salary and explained ti icr that summer was not our season for trade our business being done In the main month ahead of the opening of the vacation season "Hut she was one of the persevcrlni kind , nn age-end young woman , with con vlctlons and the courage of them. She sili wople often find themselves In the moun alns or at the scasnore or In the countr ; ulnus half the Implements for playing game : that they meant to take : others lose or breal I'nosc they started with ; others become con verts to one or another sport , and wish ti provide the means of playing , but canno lo so at the 2-cent country shop. "This we believed to be true after sh spoke of It , though It had not occurred to us but wo told her we could not Infringe 01 our retail customers' trade , and that sh better tec some of them. "Sho did , and came back to say that the ; would not give her a salary and would no allow her commission enough to make I worth while. She proposed to become on of our retail customers herself , and I ac ceded. I had become so Interested In he stlcktoatlveness' and general air of knowln , what she was about that I offered her a lln of samples to start out with. "It was the middle of the summer befor she began , but fha did amazingly well. "This summer she has been out since tii first summer hotel opened , and when sh was In the other day she told mo she mean to go south next winter to the resorts ther and travel the year round. 'Yes and no. She does and she doesn' ' follow the methods of the man drummei 5he works like the smartest traveling sales man , but we do not get any expense accoun for cigars or drinks on her route. She gee to the various hotels , takes an advantageou rocm , shows her samples and takes her 01 ders. As she turns In orders for more good than do many of our small retailers , there I no reason why she should not have the low eat net prices , and we give thcin < < o her. " Tills glimpse behind her back of the sun nier girl drummer opens up a line of proir Islng possibilities for the smart young bus ness woman. A dealer in all the details t the toilet table , from hand mirrors to col cream , Is going to send a young woman roun to the summer hottls to supply those wh have run out of luxurious necessities of fen Inlno llfo and do not have the fasclnotlni high-priced summer shops of Newport or Bo Harbor to buy from. A big Now York wholesale clothing hous has had one of Its largest routes In charg of a woman for the past two years. Sli goes over the ground herself , visiting tli old customers of the firm for which sh travels and Introducing their goods to ne' dealers. The claim being made that a woman 1 such a capacity would have a number t nnnoylpg experiences , Mrs. Blank , who I a handsome young widow , whs asked bov this. " 1 have found men universally read to accord me the treatment that a self-n speKlng woman's manner makes a bid for , was her reply. "I've no doubt that If acted like a soft-brained noodle I should b treated like ono , but I've had respectfi treatment and a good stroke of luck 1 business from the first. "I was a saleswoman and found m health falling. My physician advised m being In the open air. I didn't know ho' ' to do anything but sell goods and I had t go on earning my living and that of m little b.y , so I suggested going on the mat The hpad of the firm was amused , but asked for a trial and finally got It an since then have had no trouble In keepln my place on the traveling force. "It seems to me that my line of woman' cloaks and outer garments generally can b Fold much better by women than by men women wear them and women see thel good points better than a man can sec an can talk them up better than ho can. "Yes , they are heavy things to liamlli but I can always get a bell boy In th lintel to help me , or some one wherever am to do the lifting for me. "Much better , thank you. I haven't bee so well In years. At the beginning of m going 'on the road' I did what most wome would do , arrived In Chicago , tired an train sick , swallowed a mouthful of fooc drank two or three cups of tea and starte nut nn my work. But I soon learned bettc than that. When I have bpen travelln several hours now , I rest on my arrlva take a Turkish bath , have a good dlnnt not of tea ami toast , but of soup and fis and meat and vegetables and the tliliif that go to the civilized light dinners we ai learning tt ) eat In this country , devoid < pastry and with variety enough to tasl good and be nourishing. The next mornln 1 start In on my rounds und I sell mm goods than If I'd gone about tt fagged 01 the afternoon before. "I guess the traveling salesmen thet ; selves are to blame for the current Idc that a 'drummer' must spend his emplo ; ' ' ' all the , ers' money 'treating' customers good many purchasing firms have long sine begin to think that It might bo their ow money that paid for these treats , Anywa ; I have found It possible to sell goods will out bribing the buyers and Instead c taking the purchasers out to see the slghl I am qulto often Invited to dlno with the families. " f Nnvcltlri for tlitt llmulolr. A dainty little chest of quartered oak < satin wood Is a novelty and If one is a co lector , a necessity as well. Fitted with lock and key , It proves a pa ! receptacle for the costly treasures which tl Industrious person Is getting together pe haps of stamps , perhaps of book plates. The chest Is * about twelve Inches high , foot wide and two feet long ; If made : order the dimensions must bo regulated t the"slze of the collection. The prettiest ones are made of quartere oak , with panels of eatln wood , upon whlc a design has been etched , lu-ually In varlet colors , possibly a gay cavalier and his laO love , or cuplds and a bower of roses an design that Is effective will answer the pu pose. A motto your own and your coa of-a nil a must form the decoration on tl top of the chest. Put In one corner of yoi morning room or boudoir the chest will ce talnly adorn Hie spat and elicit many s exclamation : "Oh , how -pretty , and what It for ? " It Is always to nice to have novelty to Introduce to a friend. Stll another new thing a charming lltt frame made of oak for holding photograph that Is , Just four pictures. It Is one fran with four divisions * . The pictures are sllppt in at the back , and each one has a gla over Its face. The affair Is really foi frames In one ; It IB hung upon the wall ar the little shelf which forms the upper pa of the frame , serves nicely to hold son trifling ornament , perhaps a little vat-e , wll a few flowers. Our English friends are qul devoted to this style of framing pictures Intimate friends and lately they have bet Introduced here. PHilron .Notn. The very newest ribbons have edges of J or lace. Black silk crepe-llsse ribbon Is anoth novel variety largely used to veil trlmmlni of brilliant color. The very latest duck suits are combine effectively with pique. Black silk blouses with enormous sleevt and sailor collar , brier-stitched with whll or pale lilac are worn with afternoon co tumes of half mourning. Rich and stately redlnt'ote costumes wit braided cloth or. plain velvet tabller. lion ) are heralded by returned Importers as among : lie fashionable features of the autumn anJ winter seasons. The belt buckle Is here In all Its glory. . The latest In the way of an Inexpensive liuckle Is ot filigree silver set with Imitation turquoise. This , fastened to a belt ot white silk , Is very fetching. Some of the prettiest stockings In both black and colored silk and In lisle thread have lengthwise strips of Insertion extend ing up over the Instep and circular band ; above to accentuate the supple curves ol the ankle. Mohair will prevail as a very popular drcsi material for fall and autumn house gown ; and coat and skirt costumes for the street This material will appear In heavier weights and with a very high luster , and of almost ; corded weave. Half sleeves made of lawn , muslin , net , In sertlon and lace are this season trcaitvntl } worn Indoors with gowns which have an ar rangement of very convenient rcmovabli sleeves from the elbow downward. The am shows through the transparent substitute will pretty effect. Dressing-cases for stateroom use are inaili of pale green linen as well as of blue. Thesi are bound with white Upo and embrolderei In white linen .floss ) with the names of thi contents of the various , pockets and semi sentiment like "Bon voyage" on the outside Tall glasses In beaker form , some of then six feet In height , are set In the corner o reception rooms to hold clusters ot troplca grasses and palms , or a few long-stemmei American Beauty roses , or a group of equallj long-stemmed lilies. These glasses are modi of a highly polished pale-gren Bohemia ! crystal , and make a very effective picture. Ono of the new styles of princess dresses I : made of striped glace silk patterned with plnl rosebuds. The large sleeves are set on be low the shoulders , giving the long effect which threatens to destroy the one comfor of full sleeves. The back Is finished with i frill of black lace which forms a basque , am a wide lace cape-like flounce starts on eacl side of the front and hangs full across tin shoulders. The midsummer silks are here and selllni at prices to tempt all womankind. Then are dainty white taffetas , showing a fine colored stripe and a shower of indlstinc blossoms ; wash Indlas , which are cool am refreshing In color and design , and gorgeou plaids In faint shades of lllau and grecn- the mosl fetching things for a summer girl' silk waist. Large sailor and Marie Antoinette collars o velvet wlil appear upon next season's gown and costumes exactly In the same style a those of lace , lawn , and grass linen are no\ worn. They will bs silk-lined and Inter lined with crinoline. Some of the newes sailor collars that accompany recently won costumes fresh from Europe have tabbed o stoll fronts Instead of sharp-pointed end that reach the b ° H. There Is a new hat for garden parties show- In the most exclusive shops. It Is a plctur hat , and Is made of filmy white silk mull wit an Indication of delicate white- straw towar the edge of the brim. The straw Is ver light and ot openwork design. It gives a effective finish to the cloudllke loops of mul The hat Is entirely In white , and has n trimming but the loops and ends of mull. Some new and very pretty "picture" dressc for jummer luncheons , garden parties , pic nlcs , and similar occasions are made I colonial , chatelaine and other unique styles The full skirts are simply but artistically ar ranged , and all the "picture" portion display itself In the bodice and sleeves. Some c these dresses are made of crepon , silk-war lienrletta cloth , cr fayetta In sllvor-blu < mauve , cream color , or nun's gray. The Delft embroidery on coarse linen wit Its handsome stitching In shades of blu Oriental cotton. Is likely to remain long I fash'on. The bunches of flowers In ono corn : and the transverse band across the opposlt angle give an effective appearance to a tea cloth , which Is still further Increased by th border , a sort of shell pattern which , who the surrounding linen Is cut away , forms series of well shaped scollcps round th edges. Very elegant are the open fronted Josphln tea gowns made of flowered or striped tal fell silks. These make beautiful tea gown worn over blouse fronts and petticoats e canary yellow or rose plflk China silk boi 'derecl with two rows of cluny lace Insertloi The sleeves are In bishop's style , with dee frills of lace falling from the elbow. Th back portions of the gowns are en prlncess ( with a narrow but deeply pleated Wnttea fold falling from between the shoulders be low a lace yoke. Stylish costumes of pale buff colored Hue duck with small dots of black scattered ova Its surface are made with full untrlmmc skirts' ' and Eton jackets with fronts slight ! tabbed. The Jacket turns back with rover that are finished with five rows of the narrow est black ribbon , which also borders the edg cf the large marine collar and the wrist ot the mutton-leg sleeves. The yellow strai sailor hat en suite Is decoiated with a ban and loops of wide black velvet ribbon , and cluster of field daisies ot the "black-eye Susan" variety. The most Interesting side of fashion Just a present Is the ono which must present Use ! m the near future , and while It l < yel to enrly to predict with any degree of certain ! the coming variations In thu modes , the Parl budgets of fashion continue to predict th revival of the Louis XVI. styles , anl w may safely expect the appearance of th old-time gowns In the early autumn. T be sure , they will bo modified somewhal and gracefully adjusted to suit present con dltlons of taste , but that docs not alter th fact that fashion Is to repeat herself , eve It It Is net quite on the old lines. Blues that rival the cobalt of a mldsumme sky , pink like the changing tones of the afte glow of sunset , greens that repeat ever varying tint of turf and foliage , grays lik the morning mists of the ocean , and ever conceivable shade of brown these are th summer colors favored of fashion , most frt qucntly seen In union with other tonci friendly or otherwise , black In many case acting as mediator , this sombre dye beln brought Into requisition even with the dalr tlest tints and frabrlcs , Its presence impartln character to every class of material , whethc diaphanous or substantial. I ninltilno ttotrfl. Mrs. Wlllard , wlfo of the English actor. I founding In London a convalescent homo fo actors and actresses. The Misses Brlce- daughters of Senate Brlce , will make a bicycle and kodak tour c the rural districts of France during the com Ing summer. Miss Margaret Carlyle of Toronto , Canada an experienced factory worker , was recent ! appointed factory Inspector. She was en dorsed by the Woman's council. This year the number of women who ex hlblt In the Champs Elysees salon Is TCI In 1875 It was 312. The number of picture by women admitted Is double that of las year. year.Emma Emma Nevada has an 8-year-old daughtei Mlgnon , who Is said to rival her romantl namesake In the witchery of her dancing , he blrdllke voice and her dazzling beauty. Mies Gertrude Pearson of Boston has re celved the prize for the best written work I general chemistry out of a class ot fifty-tw or more students of the College of Physician and Surgeons. Blanche , countess of Rosslyn , In memor of her husband , and the duchess of Suthet land , In memory of her father , the late eai of Rosslyn , have enriched Rosslyn's famou chapel by the addition ot two beautlfi stained glass windows. Princess Nazle of Egypt , one ot the mot Intelligent and progressive women In Europi Is a constant laborer for the advancement c her sex. She Is now arranging an exhib : of the work of Egyptian women at the AI lanta exposition. The duchess of Cleveland , mother of th prime minister , Is engaged In writing a HI of Lady Hester Stanhope , who was an Intei estlng figure In society as well as In hlstorj The duchess Is a thorough literary workei and her book must not be expected for torn time. time.Lady Henry Somerset was re-elected pre ! dent of the British Woman's Temperanc union. Lady Somerset and Mis * Wlllar have both conditionally accepted Invitations t speak before the fifth meeting of the grea intl-alcohol congress , to be held In Base Switzerland , August 20-23. The queen has presented the Victoria war of Charing. Cross hospital with two prints e hcrtelf one taken as an Infant In long robei and the other with the duchess of Kent the age of 15. These prints are exceeding ! good , and the style of the clothing add much to their plcturesqueneis. The Massachusetts State Federation ha just adopted Mrs. Shttlurk's "Woman's Manual" a Us authority In parliamentary procedure , thereby following thu cxnmpU of the New York Federation , which did the saino thing last autumn. A new edition of this book , revised and enlarged liy Mr ! < Shattuck , Is to be Issued soon. Lovers of Sir Walter Scott arc now prcm- lii'd the reminiscences nt Ml Skc-ne , daugliter of one of the grcnt novelist's most valued and InMmate friends. Scott's life was AI dramatic as his novels are fascinating , And Miss Shone recalls ono of Its most thrllllr.K payees tin day when he itooJ , as It sconud. a ruined man. H. H. the Nawab Shums-c-Jchan , Begum of Murshedabad , and widow of the l.ilc Nawab Nnzlm , has made a donation ol Rs.25,000 toward building the proposed Hostel for the Indian female medical students at life Campbell hospital , Calcutta. Thi : Begum wishes that the Hostel should be called the "Lady Elliott Hostel. " Mlfs Mary Oarrett of Baltimore , who Is generally conceded to be the richest un married woman In America , lives In the plainest and least ostentatious way. She 1m ; no hobbles or pet extravagances and devotes much of her money und most of her time tt the development of various philanthropic and educational schemes. Fannlo Crogcr Is the literary sensation ol the day nt Berlin. She has only written OIK volume. Just published , containing four shorl stories. But before the publication she was already celebrated. Some other tales liar' been read at conversaziones , anil had beer much admired. She Is an Austrian , Is the daughter of a civil engineer and has been 01 ; the stage. Mrs. Ada Tims Klockcr , the noted turf- woman from Independence , In. , hasn't t superior In the entire country In rcportliif race meetings. Her services ore preferred by eastern papers to those of any oliiei correspondent , and when she was making re porting races her steady work she was sought and employed by all the leadlnt papers of the country. Mrs. George William Curtl * . the widow o ! the lamented editor , essayist and scholar may be seen almost any of these fine summei afternoons driving a spirited team of horses on Richmond Terrace , Statcn Island. Amoiu her neighbors Mrs. Curtis has w-on nimosi as much renown for her good horfemanshli as she has for her deeds of kindness om' charity to those In need and distress. MUs Nellie Murphy of the Antlers hotel Colorado Springs , Is said to bo the onlj woman room clerk In a largo hotel In tlili country. In England the position Is oftei held by women , and travelers will remembei how they have little tea parties In the roomi Just back of the office. There they drink toi and eat bread and Jam , at the same tlmi keeping an eye on the office window and i lookout for the wants of guests. Those lagging geniuses who never learn ti be methodical in their habits will learn will pleasure that May Wllklns Is of the sam < disposition. She says that she can wrlti 1,000 words a day easily enough when she 1 obliged to do so , but that she needs the spu of necessity to keep her at work. She I not "strong-minded" In other ways. She li fond of open fires and of doing dalnt ; feminine handiwork. There are at present five Russian womei who study astronomy In their native country One of them Is Countess Bobrtnskl , who I quite rich , and spends a great deal of mono ; for astronomical purposes. Three othe ladles , Mines. Maxlmova , Teplljakowa am Bronskaja , are busy with the study of tin planets. The fifth is a Mrs. Shllowa. Thel ; essays were so satisfactory that they havi been labeled "Important" by the Academy o Sciences. In the medical department of the Unl vcrslty of Michigan the two who stood high est were Melyll Shle and Ida Kahn , glrli from Kluklang , China. They are probablj the only two co-eds of their race In America and are noted In Ann Arbor for their ablllt ; and brightness. They came to America three years ago at the solicitation of Mis : Howe , a missionary from Ann Arbor , am hardly knew a word of English. Each Is 2 years old , and they graduate next year a : M. D.'s. Their plan Is to return to Chlm and spread the Christian gospel among thel ! countrywomen as medical missionaries. irtiSIAS MUCH THE K.l.VK. Vyrlttcn for The Bee. I. Oh , thou of Greclnn-Hclles long renowned Three thousand years have passed , swee mlos resound. Since from the lyre , heralded with Joy , The freaks of nymphs , the Kods of unclon Troy , Of mountain Nlnds and Dlnnn's bow , Hellenic bcnuty ntxl Nloblan woo ; Of direful Jewels nnd the Spartan miss , The sculptured nude nnd long-fought sallmh Stand of the goddess nnd the maid divine , Ilyronlc love , lllrspaslu's ancient line , Shades of old glory and where phebui pprunpr , Where Nlails roamed nnd llory Sappho sung Land of ilevntlon , and Calypso's name , The Gods of 1'lmler , and Minerva's fame ; Wake not to glory or to mortal scars , Or ever rouse the thundei bolts of wars. II. Yet , bards , bards Immortal , note this west crn land , Where love-sick school ma'ms crush th ( tyrant man ; Shine forth UKiiln and note reform's wave The blkn. the cap , the pnntalooned zouave The KladiatorcKs In for equal rights , In royal backstay , legslngs lashed In tights Hauled tuut is she , the major newly made To fathom facts or dart a new erusade. ' Ye doll of leisure , artless , nlrey. fay , Uon't never doubt , but nun has ha 1 Ills day ' ' Grand Island , Neb. CO.N.S ujti.ii. Switzerland grants one divorce to everj twenty-two marriages , as compareJ with one to 132 In Holland and ono to 677 in England , An Alabama Judge has created consterna tion among the bachelors of that stale b > deciding that If a man puts his arm around the waist of n marriageable woman It is prlma faclo evidence that he has proposed tt her. her.Tho The bishop of Coventry , England who re ccntly got married , made everybody laugl on his return from his honeymoon by preach Ing a Bcrmon on the topic "Tho Penitent * ! Return. " The wedding of Dr. W. L. Vroom and Mia Blanche Miller the other day In the ok Paramus Dutch church at Rldgewood , N. J. was the first wealing In the church since thai of Aaron Burr and Mrs. Theodora Prevost 113 years ago. The custom of celebrating gold and sll vcr weddings belongs to Germany. The sll ver wedding occurred on the twenty-fiftl anniversary und most people could ceiebrati that , but to bo fifty years married was i sort of event In a family. The hoim > wai quite covered with garlands and the neigh bors from far and near were assembled. The residents of Salem. Ga. , claim to hav ( had the prize father among them In the per son of Mode's Andrews , a colored man , whc died there recently at the age of 104. The ) point with pride to the fact that the old mai obeyed the ccrlotural Injunction to such goo. effect that before- his death ho was the fathei of more than 100 children. Magistrate Hause of Jeffer&onvllle , Ind. broke the record on the Fourth , when hi married sixteen couples. Ho anticipated i very busy dny , as seven of the younj men had paid his fee In advance In order U secure their place In the column , Amotif the candidates were Thomas Love and La vlnla Melissa Moore of Louisville. Eact had been married tiefore and each" ha ] ton children. In order to make the ccremonj more Interesting all of the children at tended. Edward L. Doyle married Rcglna Dome drom In Buffalo some twelve years ago After a brief honeymoon ho left her to seel his fortune In the west and deferred wrltlm until ho became ashamed to write at all Mrs. Doyle had a daughter born and afrei waiting nearly five years without hearlni from her husband , applied for and securei a divorce. She lived a single llfo with lie daughter In Buffalo. Two days ago i stranger sought her out and revealed hlmsel as her former husband. Explanations wen made by Doyle an ] the couple came to tin Falls on the 2d last , and were again united I'llrmlvn UliUUeM , Habitues of all western race tracks fron St. Paul to New Orleans nro familiar will the "gnu" that Captain Illcc , the Arkanra1 horseman , has been ruled off the turf "fo pulling Ills whiskers. " Few pportHmen nr < better known than Captain It. It. Hlce , on < of Wlione most valued postesHlonH l his trc mmdouR erop of whUkerg. They roach be low his knees nnd their extrt-niltlex lire no Infrequently fe n waving through betwcui his legs when the * captain rtun'Jn faohiK ' mnart breeze. Captain nice , henldett hli vtrintr of ruco liarfc * . ownn an linmrntic cot ton plantation nrar Llttlu Itock , and In om of the most popular men la Ills vast clr cle of acquaintances , THIS nOUTOIl'S COLUMN. X. V. V. . C'hlinK"My noivous ymcm l * ome wlmt Impaired. i\mtilvntrl by the imc of wlilc- ki-y. tolxtccn nnd other i > xrirmii. t'lcmw ilvs | I nn of n inmily adnrttd to my mm. Take Testlnc , In five drop doses , three times dully. Itcgtilulo ( hi- bowels by use ot Nathrollthlc Salts , once or twlco a week , In-fore breakfast. Slop drinking. S. J. K. , Phlla.-Tako Tcstlne In flvo drop doses , three times daily on the tongue for two weeks. Then Curdlne , extract of the heart , in three drop doses , for the same ) tlmo and In * amu manner. A dose ot Nathrollthlc Salts unco or twlco a week would bo advisable. 1C. L. S. , Phlltt.-t'lonso ntnto a ttmcily for gns trie < ly rpi | ln und cvii tlMllon | ? Take NnthroUthtc Salts , ono taespoonful 111 half tumbler of wntcr halt hour before breakfast and dinner , three times a week. Cerebrlne , extract of the brain , In flve-droj > < lncs three time ? dally. I ! ( ' . T. , ClovPliiinl - Am trouhlpil with rim- | il s no my fare , t'lcnuo cueKiot o cute. Take Nalhrntlthlc Sails In two teaspoon- fill dosoa in a tumbler of water twlco a week before brrakfatt. Use borax and water as a lotion ; n traspoonful of borax to n quart of warm water. It. A. C. . New Yorl < I hurt my Imrk liy n nton fnlllnx on It , nml nm nfiiild of epliiul illwune. Cnn you name u rcmpdy ? Take Mcdulllnc , extract of the Spinal Cord , In flvp drop doses , three times dally. Ute hot bathing and friction with Turkish toweling. W. T. PAUKEH. M. D. P. S. All letters of Inquiry on medical subjects directed to the Columbia Chemical Company , Washington , L > . C. , will be an swered free , either In these columns or by mall direct. THE ANIMAL EXTRACTS Tlic most wonderful therapeutic discovery since tlicdnjsof Jctliicr. CI-ljlHlltlNI ! . . . i.-rom tlicllr.ilti. Fur diseases of the brain nnd nervous system. MKDULMNK , - From the Spiitnl Cord. For epilepsy , Locomotor Atnxln , etc. CAHDIM- , - - l-Vom the Heart. For diseases of the heart. TliSTINH , For premature decay. OVAIMNK , For diseases of Women. TIIYDOIDINI- Kciiuma and Impurities of thu blood. Dose , B llrops. Prlc : . Two DracliniH , $1.00 ALL DRUGGISTS. Send tor Boole. i-'Kiiiciciiu : rn.i.s For Mnlarlal Affections nnd all Inflamma tory diseases of which fever Is nn accom paniment. Of Inestimable value In ncural- glu ; for Kick headache a sneclllc. fc Price , per box ot 20 pills , COc ; KKTpllls , $2. NATUOMTIIIU SAI.TS For habitual constipation , torpor of the- bowels or Inaction of the llvt-r , headache , gastric dyspepsia , Intestinal dyspepsia , want of appetite , languor nnd debility. Aa a mild , effective purgative it has no equal. Price , DOe per bottle , COI.U.MIIIA CIIKMIUAI , COMPANY , \VlKlllllgtOII , I ) . O. For taliby KUHN & CO. , ICth and Douglas. PATRONIZE By purchasing goods made at the following N'cbiiiska factories. | If you cannot find what you want , communicate with the manufac- turcrs pa to what deulcra handle their 11 A OS. I' HI1 1 1 > A.\l > TH'JXtt. Manufacturers of all Itlnds of cotton and bur. tap bags , cotton ffour eacks anil twine a spec ialty. CU-C1G-C1S S. lltti-St. OMAHA BREWING ASSOCIATION. Ca.1 loud shipments made In our own refrluo. rater cms. Blue Itlbbon , Kllte Kport , Vienna Export , and Family Uvrort , dcllveted to all parts of city. ' / ( * / . ll.t IftXtl _ _ CONSOLIDATED COFFZEC Coffee Roasters , Spice Grinders. Mnnufactur- < -i8 German Baklnp I'owilcr and Gcrnmn Dry llcp Yeast. 14U nnd U1C Harney-it. , Omaha , Neb VJillltlMI KH , KTV. _ DRUMMOND'CAllRiiGElSJ put rubber tires nnd boll bearing axles on their own make vclilck-s , niid sell i top bugcy for tSO.OO benldca. Write them. IStll and Harney. fl.iWK. S. F. OILMAN. Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour. C. K. Dliick. Manager. Omal : J-.lCTUItlKS. UPHOLSTERING cu Manufacturers of Parlor Furniture. Loungej. Dining Tables anJ Tolillng Ucda. ! Sth avc. , IJoyd to Klinlcr Sts. 1CK AX It COAL. SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND CO.ILCO. Domestic nnd Steam Coal. We have the best. Ofllce 1CO1 Farnnm-sU Telephone : Olllce 373. yard , 17CO. J. A. Doe , General Manager. / o.v INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS. Manufacturing and Itepalrlng of all kinds ot machinery , engines , pumps , elevntois , printing presej. hangers , shafting and couplings HW and 1403 Howard-lit. , Omaha. PHOENIX FOUNDRY C ) . Firs Hydmnts , Water nnd das Plpcs.upcclals. Holler Fronts nnd Fittings. Btiect ry. car wlit-eln. Arcliltcctuial lion works. Olllce,207 a. IGlh-st. , Omaha. PAXTON & VIERLIHG IRON WORKS. Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work. Ocni-rnl Foundry , Machine nnd Illarkimltli \Voik. Hnglnccrs and Contractors for Fir * Proof llulldltigs. Otllce and works : U. 1' . Ity. and Bo. 17th trt t , Ornulm. vuius. LGDOUP. Manufacturer Mattresses , Hprlng Beds ; Jobber Feathers and Pillows. N. Hth and Nicholas BID. . Omaha. _ " THE MERCER CdEHICAL COMPANY. Manufacturers of Fluid Extracts , Elixirs. Byrups und Wines , comnreueed trlturalrs hypo dermic tablets , pills and sclentlllo medical nov elties. Omaha. MtXHIt.ll , WATKlC BEDESSA MINERAL WATER CO. , JW Ko. 11th st. , Tel. 2M. Medca Mineral Water Carbonated , unequalled. Plain fur tabl * use unsurpassed. xitnir II-.ITCII , mill KKunuK. ' " ' AMERICAN DISTRICT'TELEGRAPH. The only perfect protection to property. Exam * Ino It. IJest thing on earth. | Iteduces Insur- r.nce rales , IMt Uouglag-it. * O I'.i/M 1.1. I'A TUKIiii. KATZ-iNEYINS. CO , Manufactuiers of Men's and Hoys' Clothing. Pants , Bhlrts und Oveinlls.1202-212 S. 12lh st. 1'Al'Kll IIUXHti THE OHUIA PAPER II3X CO. Manufacturers of all kinds of Paper Doxes. FhtU Hones , b'ampte Cases , Mailing Tables , etc. Wedding cake und fancy candy boxes , drugxlit , iifl Jewelry boxes. KOS-10 Jones-kt. , Omaha. tilllltr t'AV'UHilKH. lUYANS'--NEBRASKA Exclusive custom shirt tailors. 1515 Fa
