18 THE OMAHA DAILY .J5JDJD : SUNDAY , JUNE 30 , 1895 ,
WOMAJVS DOMA.IN. [ j
r = * i r i r I r I -f I r i _ r ! -
_ _
TilK 1.INIJH .MAIII.
Hnmrt Summer Cllr'n litl : In rlns Topped
ulth Drcimdn I < nlli.r * .
NEW YORK , Juno 20. Summer dress , as
seen on the highways and byways of fashion ,
makes , on the subjective mind , the follow
ing Impressions : UnUis you have at least
one linen gown or linen accessories with
Which to smarten up a plain stuff frock you
ire not In It at all this summer.
The accessories , which are usually In the
Miape of vast spreading collars and neat
turn-over cuffs , nt times with a "front" ac
companiment , look simple , but are not al
ways CO.
The gowns arc both plain and dressy ,
aerlous and frivolous , but the severe tailor
looking rig In pale brown linen , that Is al
most as heavy ns duck on the smooth , dark
woman Is the one wn most want.
Finally one concludes that though the
chiffon girl has so lately died and been laid
In her slender tomb , a new being , who
might be called the linen girl , has taken
her pbc3.
In tlmt > the linen girl. too. will pnss
away , be known to tti only through the
medium of ridiculous old fashion plates and
comic Illustrations ; In some of her portrait * ,
rwrhapa , us a rather elegant person , neat-
walstcd , wlda-shouldered , with n plain flare 1
skirt and a bodies with fine embroideries
* n dainty , exquisite , llttl lady , who was
deserving of a longer life than she will
probably enjoy.
SLANUKROUS IMITATIONS
Alas , that there Is no law to prohibit the
running uf a good thing in the ground ! No
sooner Is a desirable mcde achieved than It
Is done to death by slanderotn Imitations ,
ma-lc to expire by the very movements
meant to promote It. Linen being the
textile of the hour , linen gowns , linen
collars , linen curt3 and linen fronts may bo
picked ci : every tree. Not a fine lady passes
you , not a stylish shop girl , but she U In
some way llnenlzed.
And though some of the things are most
beautiful , others arc less so ; and not a few ,
especially certain great collars hung with
coarse lace or trimmed with spangled
galoon , show already fatal signs ot the de
generacy that comes from overproduction.
Alas ! ngaln , that this should be so , for It
belittles the good things and makes one
weaken nt a point where both convenience
and economy are at stake.
The serge , whipcord or other wool frock
Is rare nowadays that doss not show Eome-
wliere sonu little touch of ecru linen.
Not the pale cream "ecru" suggests , bul
an unbleached flax shade , tinging on green ,
which Is closely copied In. a plain batiste
that Is likewise used for many ot the big
collars.
STYLES AND PRICES.
Olhsr collars are linen grenadine , a deeper
tinted and more open weave , and a favorite
shape for simple morning wear la a great
sailor with square fronts , that has a three-
Inch hem headed by a line of whlta cambric
hemstitching let In. A row of narrow valen-
clennes ( yellow , for sure ) or biscuit Insertion
trim others , and In tlrse models collars with
square turnover lufff * are sold as low as
Jl.CO the set. Tl ese with the cambric hem-
stltchlngs are more elegant anJ more expen
sive , running from $2 the set , up , and with
this style , If a natty Jacket of Eton Is worn ,
a front of whlto null Is a ileslrabh addition ,
aa It iloes away with the neutral look the
linen girl Is apt to have when too much
swathed In her favorite textile.
One of the sets bought and a pattern taken
from It , other and more elaborate ones can
be fashioned at homo at a coat of little time
or money. Two hours will bo all the time
needed by a fair needlewoman for those de-
ecrlbc-d ; and three-quarters of a yard of sage-
tinted batiste , at CO cents the yard , and a
rard and threj-quarters of trimming , which
in Valenciennes , biscuit lace or cambric hem-
itltchlng can ba had at S cents , all the ma
terials nrcessary.
A becoming shapa In these big sailor col
lars , and they could also be easily copied
it home , Is one with the fronts In two long
itrap plecoi that run down each side ot thu
bodice and end In the belt. With this , a
front boxpleat of the same material Is a fre
quent accompaniment ; but other linen and
batiste fronts are the usual loose affairs ,
gathered Into a ribbon stock , and bagging at
the waist.
waist.OLD
OLD FASHIONS REVIVED.
Linen fixings on Imported gowns show In
their shaping * a leaning toward old time
models. Collars , bretellej , and revers are
all made to Imitate as much as possible the
styles of the long ago ; and with the dressy
frocks sometimes shoulders are so long that
the teams may be said to extend over to the
arm. With the creamjtlntcd batistes , flcliu
effects too , arc sometimes seen , and on more
than one skirt bottom will ba found the tiny
ruffle gathered through the middle that was
also worn at the Louis XVI. period.
Ono wonderful gown had a collar that
ravished all beholders. The frock Itself was
of deep yellow linen , that was as heavy aa
duck , yet was woven with a loose sort of
liop-sacklng grain ; and white pique formed
the collar , brown yellow lace In oblong me
fc J dallions with a border continuation being
let In.
A short open Jacket and plain skirt com
posed the bult , and the collar , which hung
with a deep round capo effect at the back ,
went down the fronts of the Jacket to the
bottom , turning back there with square ef
fects , and In great pointed revers at the
ihouldcrs.
This collar , which was made to button on ,
teemed a royal trapping. Anil through It
AN EFFECTIVE COMBINATION.
alone the plain gown was made BO splendl
that one felt nothing could be finer or mor
desirable.
COLLAIIS AND COSTUMES.
Another collir that will be found a useft
idjunct to a phln or unbecoming waist , form
pirt ot the cdd body Illustrated. It Is mad
with rover fronts find a square back tha
hangs locjo at the shoulders , and Is of gras
linen w'.th a wldo border worked In whlto.
A morning coitume ot plain black linen , b
Violet , had the. daintiest cJlir ot all , U wj
ot wlilte mualin embroidered with scattere
I' . black dels and with ruchlngs ot yellow lac ;
the shape shou'der epiulettes slashed towar
r the neck In triple \"n , the center one longe
than the two others , and the bottoms rquin
A stock of mauve taffeta ribbon with
great bick bow ftnlshoi the throit , and bac
ind front the collar lungs cpan , showing V
llnped views of the bsdlca.
Linen gowns , thick and thin , fliy and plait
abound. For the flxy ones , linen grenidlni
which Is shown In plain and spotted weave :
and several beautiful tints. Is a favorite nutc
rial. A dim bottle blue ombrctdored wit
big dot * In a deeper tint. Is one elegant de
ilgn , and with this black footing In tin
ruches was found to be an effective bodlc
garniture.
A COACHING TOILET.
A linen grenadine In pale ecru hid trim
Inlngj of white embroideries , and a tuck co
lar and belt of corn flower blue velvet ; an
tha hat worn with this costume which fin
ippeared coaching day on top of a drag wa
i blj. , turban shape , with a rolled brim c
learso jellaw itraw and a crown of blue
JLJ1 JLJt 'LJ1 JI J1 JLJ1 JLJL 'LJ1- '
flowcrs. It came down almost to the tips of
the wearer's pink cars , and over It was worn
a loose veil In black not , with an appllqued
border , that made the tidy look as If the had
just stepped out ot an old-fashion plate.
The linen grenadine gowns that didn't go
to the coaching parade , but thst are , never
theless , charming , are hero pictured.
The costume with the dots Is of pale brown
and white , with trimmings ot yellow Valen
ciennes edging ; lining , golden brown taffoU
silk.
silk.The second toilet Is of a palo cream , over
Balmon silk , and Is ono of tht linen girl's
hotel plnzzi and dance frocks. Though crisp ,
the grenadine Is as dellclto as veiling , and
fine stltchcry ornaments the front of the
blouse , body nnd skirt ; bull and sash cntls
salmon taffeta ribbon.
With tlieso frocks the wardrobe of the
linen girl may bo said to have been eiuntod
off. Only one costume remains , and thU Is n
dressy afternoon toilet In French bitlsto , that ,
tog&thcr with a wldo pompadour stripe. Intro
duces ono In her favorite sago tint , and that ,
curious y or.ouph , Is trimmed with white S vlsi
and yellow lace.
Hut In the years to come , whrn her bones
have long been mingled with the dust , nnd
TWO CRISP FLAX FROCKS.
only some rose-icented scrap ot her toggery
remains to speak , it will toll her story well.
"Yes , the linen girl was a dainty creature , "
you will say. NINA FITCH.
WOUlI.N AS UKTKOTlVi S.
Clover Work IVrforniril by Them In Vn-l-
mu ir.mrh" of the Sorvlui * .
Almost every profession and business Is
open to the woman of today , who seems to
grasp the particular methods required with
an Intelligence that wins universal admiration
for her capacity.
Not so many years ago Charles Dickens
laughed at the female lawyer In his character
5t "Sally Brass , " yet nt the present tlmo how
many women of an utterly different typo are
practicing law In various American cities !
In Now York It has been for some time a
fashionable necessity for the rich man's
daughter to attend classes and lectures ln
law , and to receive , if possible , a degree.
Among the many women of metropolitan fame
Miss Helen Gould Is noted for her clever
comprehension of legal technicalities , which
will doubtless aid her In guarding her Im
mense fortune.
Ono branch of work about which little has
been written , comparatively speaking , Is
woman's career as a detective. For this her
natural Intuition and her Interest In Intrigue
especially qualify the weaker ( ? ) sex. It Is a
positive fact that many detective bureaus
employ women regularly in the secret service ,
but they guard their names with care and will
not reveal them.
The Plnkertons have many clever women
on their staff of workers , and give them gen
erous payment for efficient accomplishment.
Their women are used In three ways : First ,
as "shadowing" suspicious characters , that
Is to say , following them about the streets
and learning their haunts and habits ; to ondly ,
to watch and to become acquainted with per
sons who are likely to know the object ot the
search , and who may be able to Impart In
formation. The great art here comes In
quickly doternilnl-g how'important this person
may be , and In drawing out the required
knowledge with a tact that never awakens
suspicion. The third division Is by rUIng In
street cars and railway trains and watching
the guards and conductors to see If they are
honest with the funds they collect. Often
the wives and daughters of railway men make
application at the detective bureau for this
kind of work and are received. Again women
often servo through the private employment
ot a detective official , who , during the course
of an Investigation , realizes the Importance
ot some woman's co-operation , and engages
and pays her tor helping him acquire the
necessary data and preserving the scent of
the trail.
AllOUT Nrf.
Which Is the Clcnnur Sex ? Whtit u Woman
11 in to < ) .
A bachelor said In my presence a year or
two ago : "Women are not , by nature or
habit , so clean or orderly as men , or GO
delicate In their Ideas ot small matters. "
I combated the assertion , with Indignant
protests , writes Ella Wheeler Wllcox In the
Chicago Record , and assured the speaker that
only a disappointed bachelor , whom some
woman's pjrfldy had soured , could make such
a statement.
Nevertheless , I set about studying the
habits of the sexes In these respects , and
I began to question people who nad wide
opportunities of judging such matters , and
the result has not been wholly complimen
tary to my sisters.
First , I noticed the dress ot men and
women In public conveyances , It Is rarely.
Indeed , one eees a man , with any claims to
respectable attire , who displays soiled col
lar , cuffs or shirt front. But I have ob-
srvcd soiled laces about the neck of many
an otherwise richly and fashionably attired
woman , and soiled white gloves are woefully
In evidence and ruin scores ot haudsoma
toilets.
I do not think I have over seen fringes or
tatters about the ankles ot a man.
It seems to be an understood law among
tha mo t ordinary types ot respectable men
that the. flnt rave-led seam or ripped lining
shall ba attended to by the tailor before the
garment Is worn again. But women who
carry fortunes upon their backs display torn
flounces and ragged laces frequently on the
street crossings , or In alighting from ve
hicles.
Only a few weeks ago I walked behind
a young lady In a prominent New York
avenue , and admired the perfect fit of hei
brand new promenade costume and the ex
quisite details , which exhibited excellent
tatta and judgment ot the wearer or her
modlite. Hat , gloves , gown and wrap and
veil wore In harmony. But suddenly tlicrj
came a muddy crossing ; the lady lifted her
dress and showed a charming foot , elegantly
booted , but , alas ! above It a silk petticoat
with three ragj hanging from It. The har
mony was ruined by a discord.
Jmt as I was about to emerge from a
Turkish bath establishment one day a young
woman who speaks three languages fluently
and who belongs to a rich and Influential
family entered and tossed tiff an expensive
cloak , displaying a faded silk waist which
was out at the elbows and badly soiled about
the neck. Her skirt was trim and modish ,
hsr cloak and txmnet Irreproachable , but the
watit she wore was Inexcusably shabby , I
could not help but wonder If she had ap
peared In this garment at the breakfast table.
Perhaps In similar Intimacy men may see
similar untidiness among members of their
own sex , but I doubt It.
On the oth > band , where U the woman
wlio coiilJ endure for ten minutes the filth
of a "smoking car , " In which refined men
pass hours ? The recollection of passing
through one liy accident to reach a parlor
cir Is sufficient to unnerve the .average
woman.
Talking with a lady who lias n large
country homo , wjiers she entertains exten
sively , I asked her opinion on this subject.
She gave It as follows :
"I will ttll you our experience , " she eald ,
"which , I fear , Is not a solitary one. It so
happened thut two young ladles and two
younit gentl ° men had been passing n week
under my roof , and the morning of their
departure my housekeeper was 111 , and 1
went In person to superintend the cleaning
of the rooms which they had occupied.
"The young ladles , mind you , had been
reared In the homes of culture and learning
anil were to all appearances dainty and re-
flne.1 specimens of their sex , yet this wai
the condition of the rooms \\hlcli they had
occupied for a week :
The handsome dresser cloth was stained
anil spattered by toilet creams and washes.
A box of face powder had been overturned
on the velvet carpet and the print of n
smalt slipper toe had tracked It about the
room. A large , unsightly roll of mixed
blonde and brunette "combings" protruded
from a pasteboard receptacle like a lasl
year's bird's nest. Three toilet bottles were
minus their stoppers. Four cambric hand
kerchiefs and one glove were found under
the bed and In the sweeping or the room
were discovered eighty-seven dress pins , foui
hat pins and two lace pins containing
Jewels.
"When the room Just vacated by tht
men waa Investigated the only souvenir :
remaining were two half-burned cigars , c
small heap of cigar ashes on the mantelpiece
and one quill toothpick on the floor.
" 'Sure , an' I'd rather clean up after tli
glntlemen than one lady any day , ' remarked
my servant , and in view of the contrasl
between the two rooms I could not rebuke
her. "
Another hostess whom I consulted on this
subject said : " 1 do not know that I hav <
found men guests neater than women , bul
I have found them more delicate minded Ir
regard to many matters. For Instance , tin
seemingly best bred girls and the rlchcsi
are often exceedingly careless In smal
matters. They will borrow a wrap front o
hostess when they have mlslold their owr
or It Is inaccessible and they will leave thl :
garment on a veranda chair or In a boa !
with a reckless disregard of consequences.
"They will take one's best books from tht
library and leave them on garden seats tt
be ruined by rain or Insects. They will ust
one'n postage stamps or hairpin , wher
supplies are five miles distant. Men an
rarely thoughtless or careless In thesf
matters. If by chance they find It necessary -
sary to borrow a topcoat or macklntost
they are extremely careful about returning
It. Women have a way of taking favors foi
granted which Is foreign to the averagf
man. "
Another lady said : "I think men batht
much more than women do and they an
more particular about the details of theli
clothing and dress. I think It Is more thar
balanced by many of their unclean habits
smoking , chewing , drinking and the like
fn fact , I think men are Internally less clear
and externally cleaner than women. "
"It Is a queer thing about this new
woman , " said a bright roan to me recently
"Sho Is BO awfully Independent , you know
goes everywhere alone , keeps all sorts ol
hours , fills all sorts or positions , yet tin
moment she Is on the street car with a male
acquaintance she takes it for granted thai
he will pay her fare and she Is far more
ready to accept money favors from hln
than his real bachelor friends whom she
apes. It strikes me as very odd. I llkf
to do these favors for a lady , of course , bul
It Is amusing , nevertheless , when In th <
next breath she tells you how independent
the new woman Is of man. "
At the same time this young man seemct
to forget that there never would have beet
"the new woman" had "tho old man" no' '
been niggardly In money matters. It wai
because our grandmothers were obliged te
ask for G cents and then frequently bi
subjected to the humiliation of a refusa
that their granddaughters are making tin
often ungraceful scramble for men's place :
and men's wages which so startles the
world today.
Whatever Indelicacy the woman of todaj
shows In money matters Is but the resul
of Inheritance an Inheritance caused bj
the Injustice of men In a past ago ; mean
while she has sufficient taste and prldi
to correct this Inheritance once she re
altzes It.
The question which remains open now Is
Has the American man , despite his superioi
claim to neatness and cleanliness , the prldi
and good taste to cure himself of his awfu
habit of expectorating In public places am
conveyances ? He seems to have In thi
minds of the majority of people the rlghtfu
claim to better taste In many matters thar
our sex possesses , nut this one detestabli
vice ruins all the other commendable quail
ties ! II Is the only habit which render !
him Inferior to foreign bred men , and wh )
will ho not start a crusade against It ?
TO in ; OM'S : OU.N MANICUKE.
Important Union I.nlil Uinvn by a Gum
Authority.
The care of the person In these end-of-thi
century days , says Harper's Bazar , Is a so
rlous consideration , not that our ancestor
were- not given over to cleanliness , but thej
certainly did not consider it necessary that si
much time be given up to the minor detail
of the toilet as Is now the case.
To bo blcn soignee la an absolute necessity
for every woman who desires to look . "fit1
an English expression which , like man ;
other English slang expressions we havi
taken for our own , Implies perfection In ever ;
detail of the appearance , and no woman cai
look "At" unleis her personal appearance > a
been very carefully attended to. Not enl ;
must the gown , boots and shoes bo in ever ;
way up to the mark , but hair and hands mua
bo kept In most thorough order , and thl
Involves In cases where money can not b <
spent without any thought , considerable tlni
and personal supervision.
Manicuring , like maisage , la one of the lux
urics of the age , and although the price
asked by manicures are mucii less than whei
It first started In to be a fashionable fad
even now the pennies fly away very rapidly
If a professional manicure Is employed. Thcr
la no reason , provided there la no disease o
tha nails to combat , or no deformity of th
finger ) why every woman should not be abl
turaelf to keep her hands and nails In propa
condition. The vartcua Implements , lotion :
polishes , powders and acids u ed by the pro
ftsslonals are for vale In a.l the shops , am
after having their bands carefully manlcurei
half a dozen times by a iltlllful manicure
tii tricks of the trade are easily learned
and patience and perseverance will enable any
woman with a falrjy well-shaped hand to
make It almost beautiful. In these days an
Ill-kept hand and dirty nails are absolutely
Inexcusable , and , the , criticisms passed upon
such are extremely harsh.
Hot water Is , . , the ) first requisite , and a
thorough washing or. soaking of the hands.
This Is best attained by having the hot water
poured Into a piuiln. continually for two or
three minutes. T'.iohands must be allowed
to soak for fully1 five minutes , and It Is well ,
Instead of soap , to ' wash the hands very thor
oughly In bran ; whfih makoi the skin scft
and white. AfteY the hands have been thor
oughly cleanse.1 ! tlld 'nails ' should then be at
tended to. With a. piece of orange wood
stick sharpened'to a Jrolnt , and a bit of Jew
eler's cotton rolled around the point and wet
with the acid fh'at comes for this purpose ,
every partlc'.e of dirt and stain should bo re
moved. The hands must then again be
washed , this time In warm , not hot , water.
Scissors , very thorp and fine , must then betaken
taken , and n'l ' loose flesh at the side of the
nails carefuty trimmed. The nails must be
bhaped In n pointed oval , All roughness
must be filed away , and the flet1 ; ! at the Inso
of the nails pushed smoothly and firmly'back
so that the half mocn , supposed to be a point
of beauty , can be discerned. It is no longer
considered good form to have go much polish
on the nails that they look as though they
had been buttortd.as was the fashion two or
three years ago. Hut a certain amount of
polltM Is necessary. Hosallne put on over the
entire nail and the end of the linger , then
washed off again , and the nails brushed brisk
ly with a polisher , makes the hands look very
trim and pretty. The first manicuring Is
by all odds the most illITlciilt. After the nails
and hands are ones got Into good condition ,
fifteen minutes each Monday morning will
keep them In proper condition nil the week
through , U only ordinary care In washing t'le
hinds , with an occasional rub from the pol
isher , Is gven.
Some women , of ccurre , have far mora beau
tiful hands L'nan others , but care makes an Im
mense amount of difference even In very
ugly fingers. Constantly pinching the ends
doss a lot toward making the fingers taper ,
and there Is more than bne case on record of
girls with thick , stumpy fingers who have
been made to wear thimbles at night on each
finger to produce the tapering hand v hlch Is
such a beauty. Hands which perspire are a
grievous trouble and mortification , and there
are few remedies which really seam to be of
avail. Constant washing with borax In the
water , or soda , does help somewhat , but the
ild of a physician generally lias to bo sought
before any radical cure can be accomplished.
Very cold liands also are not to bo admired ,
and as they show poor circulation , hero
again a manicure had best retlro in favor of
a medical adviser. Uut In the generality of
cases where hands and health are normal
there Is no reason why a woman should not
have a hand handsome enough to ba modeled
If she but take time and caro.
Whlto hands , delicately tinted fingers , and
wel-cared-for ! nails must needs elicit admira
tion from every one , and bear a distinctive
mark of refinement which even a large size
and apparently ugly shape are powerless to
render hideous.
TI1K WOMAVS IJIin.l : .
An Interview with tlni Originator of tlin
liotralilliltlim.
From the numerous paragraphs afloat one
Is led to suppose that there Is to be a new
edition of the bible arranged to suit the
fancy of the nnetepnth ! century woman.
That Is all amilstake , there never was the
slightest Intention on the part of the fcml-
nlno revising committee of revising the en
tire bible or even any part of It for the pur
pose of giving the public a new edition of the
great volume.
The women who Conceived this Idea of
"The Woman's , Bible , " as they have named
the book that Is designed to be a subject of
Indignation , agitation , Interest and prob
able profit have only In view an Interesting
compilation of comments touching upon those
portions of holy writ that especially relate to
women.
Such a book would , have Inestimable value
as a reflection of pie mental attitude of the
women of today toward the bible , provided
it were possible to have comments from In
telligent women 'who still believe the bible
to be Inspired from cover to cover , as well
as from tho30 who look upon It as merely a
history of the Jewish people and the events
Incident to the coming of Christ and per
haps as fallible as other histories.
nut It appears this is not altogether fea
sible. Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton , the
head and front of this possible offending , In
a recent Interview with the writer says of
this but , without doubt the whole Interview
would be of Interest , being at any rate an
authentic statement of what the women hope
to do with the "Woman's Dlble. "
"Mrs. Stanton , w.ll you tell me , for pub
lication , what Is the "Woman's Bible ? "
" 'The Woman's Bible' Is to consist of com
ments on those parts of the bible that refer
to women , which can all be found In about
one-eleventh part of the Old and New Tes
tament. "
"How long will It be before the book will
bo ready to be given to the public ? "
"Wo hope to get It out within a year , but
may not. "
"What was your Idea as to your coadju
tors In the work ? "
"My idea was to have all sects and shade
of thought represented , to get the opinion
of the women of the nineteenth century as
to what they thought of the bible. But I
fear that I shall not succeed In that. Evan
gelical women believe that It Is the work of
God , and It would bo Irreverent to pass any
criticism on It. Liberal women reject It altogether -
together as authority and think It a waste of
time to read it , much less write about It. "
"What is your own opinion ? "
"I do not agree with cither side. The
book has a strong hold on multitude * of
women and Is the chief block In the way of
their emancipation. The general tendency
ELIZABETH CADY STANTON.
of tha teachingIs , to degrade women , tc
assign her an i Inferior position , subject tq
man. It makts her the origin of evil , mar
riage a condition of slavery , maternity a
curse. The Pentatquch makes all females
unclean , a female lamb too unclean for a
burnt offering. Read the five books through
and decide for yogrsflf. "
"What Is proposed as the mission of the
woman's bible ? "
"I want to show , women that tht book la
written by men for , men , and that It Is a
blasphemy for the authors to claim that
God lias degraded , the mothers of the race ,
No man has ever seen or talked with God ,
and when those old' Hebrews tell us God
aild so , we know It was a flgtilent of their
Imagination. "
"What Is to' bo your own share In the
work ? " ' ,
"I am commenting on the Pentateuch and
hope to git that' out , as part first , during the
summer. "
The women 'who have worked long and
faithfully for the emancipation of their ee.i
liavo long ago coma to realize the powerful
weapon their eiiemUs hold In these three
words , "The blblo aays. "
While the great mass of women believe the
bible to be the actual wirk of God , Iti
authority closes their ears to all allusion :
to ths taking of any position on an/ subject
whatever not In accordance with the teach
ings of the testaments. Therefore It will
ba seen that the breaking down of the air
thorlty of the. bible as the ( aspired word ol
GoJ will give an added Impetus to tht
women's movement , which has always found
Its strongest opponents In the pulpit , and
Its general teachings of the Inferiority ol
women based always upon the word of GoO
as revealed In the bible.
No one will calniay , no matter what posi
tion he or Bhe may take on the woman que3 <
tion , that the leaders who plan tha cam
paigns of the suffrage party have made Na <
poleonlo efforts for the cause , and that thl :
last movement at blunting the edge ot thi
keenest award that Is wielded against then
" 1 of the "VTo'ria.entertained a large number <
j aalUeryrr and 'musical ' prograt
Is a stratagem worthy of their already wall
earned laurels as leaden ot what has been
ID long looked upon as a forlorn hope.K.
K. . N.
I tnhlun Notes ,
I'owder-btuo Is the latest slmJo of blue-
gray to bo designated.
Hutter-colorod straw hats are trimmed
with bows of straw and clusters of Ivy
leaves.
Whlto p.cnie skirts are worn with silk or
grass linen shirt waists by the up-to-date
summer girl ,
Largo lace collars have become so univer
sally popular that they must bo of rare
quality to bo at all notlroablu nowadays.
Ono of the special features of the latest
Paris gowns Is the Marie Antoinette fichu ,
which seems to bo slowly but surely gaining
In favor.
All sorts of odd designs lire scon In silver
belt buckles , and the more flllgrco work
displayed In them the moro costly they arc.
A French dress of ecru linen batlsto Is
tnado with an open work yoke of linen passe
menterie , backed with red. Uclt and collar
are of gay red plaid ribbon.
A novelty seen In silk waists has the
sleeve set In from the neck In rather large
pleats , which Is especially pretty for slender
figures , ns It gives width across the bust.
Shirts that require stiffening of nny kind
should be Interlined with fibre chamois , but
only the genuine should bo used. The Im-
Itat ons are worse than useless.
Kor cool davs nt the seaside and In the
mountains pretty bodices of challle and fine
French Manuel for young girls and misses
ara provided to replace starched shirt waists.
The prettiest new puttlcoats are made of
glace silk , with large flounces of muslin
trimmed with lace , these flounces be ng so
made that they can be detached to visit the
laundress.
Irish guipure and Carrlckmacross another
Irish lace are made up Into collars variously
shaped , and tlie latter Is R very beautiful
variety of Irish lace , but Is scarcely united to
every section ns a guipure.
To lor made suits of white nnd pearl-gray
satin-faced alpaca and pique are Included In
very smart wardrobes. They are made with
short natty jackets and full skirts fitting
tightly around the hips.
Gauze Is used In one way or another
upon nearly every hat that Is worn. If It Is
not In the form of rosettes , It Is accordion
plaited and Is made Into funnel-like fans
that stand up In place ot ribbon loops.
Sleeves grow larger ns the season ad
vances , and more expensive , If possible.
Whether made of silk , woolen or cotton
goods , fibre chamois Is the Interlining used
where a really good effect Is desired.
Traveling gowns of mohair are being made
with the fullness of the skirt carried over
each hip In a series of very fine pleats ,
stitched down flatly and visibly. With many
of these skirts Is worn a , short cape , Instead
of a jacket or a blazer.
The things most gorgeous now are hats.
A hat of only one tint Is an object of con
tempt among Its parti-colored fellows , and
should a girl come out with peonies and
sunflowers In her hat , she would probably not
cause much of a sensation.
- The most stylish black dresses for general
wear are made of alpaca , with n round
waist , plain In the back with blouse effect
In front , opening over a loose vest of ecru
batiste trimmed with lace , whllo a wide col
lar ot batiste , square across the back and
flaring out In the sleeves , extends down the
front to a point at the belt. Dark blue al
paca Is pretty mads and trimmed in the
same way.
Whlto gloves are worn with the smartest
toilets for day wear. Those of kid stitched
with black are more dressy and stylish than
the chamois , which are relegatfd almost en
tirely to traveling and driving wear. The
Hlarrltz style are much used , though the
tight wrist with hrge white buttons sre
also fashionably worn. These white gloves
clean beautifully , and are not so extravagant -
gant as they seem at first thought , on this
account. One pair will admit of repeated
cleanings.
Among decorations of natural flowers there
Is a decided fashion for the variety of tulips
known as "Parrot" tulips. These arc much
used for table decoration and few flowers are
so effective. The long , beautifully sloped
leaves , with their deeply serrated edgei , can
hardly be surpassed for beauty of tint. Many
of the blooms are staln'd with vividly con
trasting colors. There is none ( if the stiffness
of the ordinary tulip about these beautiful
blossoms , and the only fault that can be
found with them Is that they are scentless.
Although the shops are full of collaret'es ' ,
plastrons , yokes , and the entire list ot fancy
neck wear , many of them extremely low-
priced , It Is wise to buy with great caution.
The fit of a collar Is always the crucial test
of a bodice's elegance , and no two persona
take quite the same "hollowing out. " Many
ot these little toilet additions can b3 found
to fit one admirably , and care should betaken
taken that they are so found. As many
moro do not fit the purchaser at all , and If
It Is not altered to suit her , she adds one
more to the long list of women now going
about with Ill-adjusted neck gear.
I'rinlr.lno Notei.
A woman auctioneer has made her ap
pearance in London , the first of her species.
The remains of the late Miss Kmlly Faith-
full have been cremated , according to her cx-
prest-ed wish.
Queen Victoria has signed the bill making
full woman suffrage In South Australia an
accomplished fact.
The princess of Wales has a tea service of
sixty pieces , and each piece Is decorated with
a photograph which the took herself In Scot
land.
land.The
The third woman to receive the degree of
LL. D. Is Miss Frances Wlllard. The other
two thus honored were Maria Mitchell and
Amelia n. Edwards.
Miss Lillian Chandler Is at the head of the
stringed Instruments In Boston's woman or
chestra. There are forty-five members bo-
slde the few men necessary for the heavy
instruments.
Mmo. Mtihllng , well known as a translator
ot French dramas Into German , recently
celebrated her 100th birthday at Berlin. She
Is still vigorous , both physically nndmentally. .
Lidy Margaret Scott , who has won the
ladles' golf championship In England for the
second time , Is the second daughter of the
earl of Eldon and great-granddaughter ot the
great lord chancellor.
The most accomplished lady of English
royal family Is Marie of nussla ( duchess of
Edinburgh ) , who Is a thorough linguist and
an admirable pianist aa well. She devotes
several hours a day to her music.
The duchess of Marlborough displays good
American taste In electing to drop the. higher-
sounding title of duchesp , to which , though
married , she Is still entitled , and to be
known In future as Lady William Deresford.
Frau Marie Harder , a Danish lady , has
Just made her literary debut at the rlpo age
of 70 with a volume called "Yule Star. " Like
the work of so many Infant prodigies , nothing
remarkable. Is claimed for It except the ago
of Its author.
Sarah IJernhardt believes , apparently , In
alternating extreme luxury with primitive
conditions. She Is said to have rented an
ordinary peat-ant's cottage In an obscure
village , where It Is her Intention to spend the
summer , living as nearly as possible like her
neighbor ? .
Mrs. Ilenrotln , president of the General
Federation of Woman's Clubs , said recently
In an address that the club idea , speaking
generally. Is undergoing great modifications.
Most of the new clubj are not only becoming
more or lesa civic associations , but engaging
In large financial undertakings.
Mrs. Grlmwood , the woman whose name
came prominently before the English-speak
ing public In connection with the Manlpur
disaster has relinquished her widowhood In
favor of a Mr. Miller. It will be remem
ber that her husband was massacred , and
she escaped from the besieged garrison
through a most thrilling experience.
The European fellowship offered by the
Woman'ii Educational association of IJoston
waa awarded thU year to MUs Mary M.
Klngsbury. Miss Klngabury graduate ! from
Doston university In 1890 , and during the
past year has been taking advanced work Ir
social economics at nadcllffe , She will con <
tltiuo the same line ot work In Derlln.
The woman of Tacoma , Wash. , are en
gaged In a very active crusade In favor ol
"home Industries. " They have formed a
league whwe members ploJga tbemeelveJ tc
give preference always to articles manU'
f.ctured In Tacoma or produced In thi
state and to labor to bring others to thcli
principles. The women are working In thf
matter with an astonishing vigor and have
succeeded In booming local tralo to a notablt
extent.
MI J Dalnbrldge. who Is a member of the
faculty of the Now York Cooking tchool ,
Is to have charge of a clan of girls at
Cbajjtauqua thU summer and to teach then
tTThe former recslvea mi Mign icnooi , oipiw
I and the latter will gradi
, a faw wrrt * ago ,
unique and useful things. They wilt lie from
S to 1C years old and they will be Instructed
In such deilrablo lore as swimming , rawing ,
cooking , receiving and entertaining guests ,
dlitlngulshlnn varieties of trees and of birds
and the like.
Mrs. LothroiT of llwton , widow of the pub-
Usher , Is about to form a society which will
have for Its tibjcqt the Inculcation of patriotic
principles In the minds or the children. It
will bo the exclusive form of patriotism
fostered by the Sons ami Daughters of the
Hovolutlon , however , ns only those children
who will bo eligible to membership In one
of those distinguished organizations may be
come members of this society , "Tho Children
of the Involution. "
Modistes * ay that the numb r of wcnieti
who refuse to wear the heavy lined and
stiffened skirts which are ttlll the prevail
ing fashion constantly Increases. Physicians
complain and criticise bitterly the practice
of hanging such n weight Ion the hips ;
women who do It nnd then suffer from backache -
ache and Indigestion arc told with scant
courtesy that the evil and the remedy aio
alike In their hands , skirts are now often
made without lining , the stiff tklrt IHng
worn beneath and suspended from the should-
crs by straps of the skeleton waltt form.
Thrco recent bequests from as many women
show that their giving Is both generous and
discriminating. Airs. MInturn's noble dona-
tton ot $23,000 Is valuable as an Impetus
axldo from the handsome sum of money
which It Is for the establishing of a"pay
hospital" for1 contagious diseases , has been
followed by a gift of $5,000 from Mrs. Clara
F. Hitchcock of New York to endow a "free
bod" nt ( ho Mar } ' Hitchcock hospital. Dart
mouth college , and still moro recently the
New York Deaconess Home and Training
School of the Methodist Kplscopal church
haj profile ] to the extent of over $20,000
from the estate ot the late Mrs. Jane E.
Kelsmerc.
\Vhnl Women Are Holri1 ; .
Nearly a hundred women fell to In Cliicln-
intl the othe * day and thoroughly cleaned the
dirt from onu of the filthiest streets In that
city.
city.Mrs.
Mrs. llakcr , CO years old , of Dickinson Court
House , Va. , has just obtained the position of
mall rider In her district , which U ono of the
wildest of Virginia.
The Sallna , Kan. , girl who telegraphed In-
vltatlons to her wedding knows what to do
with a bird In the hand when she gets him.
Mrs. Gcorgo Ingalls of Green Bay Is the
first woman who learned to sot type In north
ern Wisconsin.
Emily Fnlthfull combined her work for the
catiso of women with a love for strong cigars ,
of which she was an Invoter.ito smoker. She
took to tobacco at first to relieve her asthma.
The fact that sixty-two literary ladles sat
down to dinner together In London recently
Is viewed by a leader writer for an English
dally as ominous and portentous to the future
of man In literature.
Miss Mary Garrctt ot Baltimore , daughter
of the late President John W. Garrett of the
Baltimore & Ohio railroad , while generally
conceded to bo the wealthiest unmarried
woman In the United States , is plain and un
ostentatious In her way of living nnd cares
for lUtle else but the development ! ot the
philanthropic and educational projects In
which she Is engaged.
Alphcnse Djudet was not complimentary
In his references to Englishwomen. "Not
only Is she not handsome In features , " ho
says , "but there Is nothing seductive In her
physical form , and , moreover , she Is an utter
stranger to elegance and good taste. The
Englishwoman whom you encounter In Paris ,
with her flattcned-down hair and huge feet ,
differs In no single particular from the Eng
lish lady ot rank whom you meet In salons ,
on the turf and at the play. It gave mo a
real thrill of pleasure on reaching Pnrli to be
hold our pretty Parlslennes , with their fas
cinating toilets. "
It Is rumored , says the Chicago Record , that
a lady of conspicuous standing In Chicago so
ciety has recently been In Paris for the pur
pose of being re-enameled. It Is slid that
this bdy was enameled for the llrst time four
years ago. The art of enameling the face
and bust Is most skillfully practiced by cer
tain Parls'.an ' experts , but even the work ot
these geniuses does not last forever ; the
woman who once submits to the proceeding
has. In all solf-defonso , to return to Paris
ovnry fourth year to be re-enameled , for the
enamel , when -It wears off , leaves the skin so
parched and yellow that It can never recover
Its natural elasticity or natural color. The
earlier attempts at enameling the human skin
Imparted a doll-like expression to the face
and prevented play of tht > facial muscles.
The art has progressed and been Improved
to such an extent that the onameleo can now
smile , laugh and express every variety of
emotion without danger to her bogus com
plexion or to he elf. The process of enamel
ing Is a very delicate ono and Involves a
considerable oxpcndlturo of tlmo and of
money.
1 JMI'i : TIIHK.
\Vrlttrn for The Uoa
I love thee ,
Not nil the burning words of pisslon
That nil the world of lovcro fashion
Can tell the love I feel
As at thy foot I kneel
I love thee ,
I love tboe ,
Within my heart there's such a glowing-
That nil the winds of heaven blowing
Could not put out , but make
A Ilercer flame awake
I love thco ,
I love thco ,
If br > aven Itffelf were for my choosing ,
Or thnu I'd hold It well the losing ,
For hell could only bo
A blissful place with thee
I Invn tbeo.
WILLIAM RI2CD DUNttOY.
HUMPHREYS'SPECIFICS '
cunnitosi : ooi.n AND nrsrKrsi.v
Wlnt mlRht lie called "hot weather Dyspepsia"
Is Imonn by weak ntomnch a Bono , Blckl h feel-
Ins. The lioad HWlms the vitality ' low. Cor
rect nml strenBthen the wcnk stomach with Rr.
Humphreys' llomeoepatlilc Spcclllc No. 10 , and
you will pass through the mmmor lth a feel-
Ins of buoyancy unknown to Dyspeptics.
"ACT I.1IU5 M1OIC. "
Mrs. II. II. Downny , W. 9th St. , N. Y. , nays :
"Humphry's Specifics 'act like magic' within-
could not exist without them. No. 10 la my Ideal
for Dyspepsia ami nil Htomach troubles. In fact
my husbnml jonrs before hl death , ueeil to pro.
scriue No. 10 for everything. "
77" roi : HUM : toi , ANI > HAY n.vr.it
J. V. Jordan. Hlberon , N. J. , wrltta : "I hnve
trhil ' 77 * for Hny Kever , nnd have found it to b < )
all that you claim. It eav ? me Immediate relief ,
willed nil doctors have failed to dn 111 the last
llvo ye-irs. "
Humphrey's Specifics are sold by dnisBlsls. or
sent prepaid on receipt of prlco. Kc , or IU" > foi
llWmuy bo afsortd ) . nil Ht'MI'IIIir.Y'a MAN-
UAIj ( enlarRcil nnd n > i < * l ) MAILUI ) KllIJi ;
Hl'Ml'HIUIY-S MKDiriNi : CO. .
Cor. William and John Sta , New York.
FOR ANY
Take Only one Dose
at iilshl when you retlra and you will liave a
riwl nlfrht'a rst and uwalie In the mornlns
feeline as line and bright ns u new ( liver dalar.
TRY IT AND SEE.
You will frH happy and enter upon your
day's ilutl. ' nltli tt llt-'lil hrurt ami contented
mind , und Lie olilo to do tulcu us much wurk
and nnt feel a Mt fatigued.
I'llICU ONLY II00 I'nil nOTTM ! .
TIlllKi : IIOTTUEa FOIl 5.00.
Kvery < lo o U worth more than w ink fur
thrco LottlfB.
-All : Your Druggist for a IloltU.-
Manufactured only by
Back ! Tonic Medicine Co. ,
tjT. LOIU * . MU ,
THE DOCTOR'S COLUMN.
M. O. A. , Philadelphia. I nm troubled
very much with spots on my logs , some *
times they nrn red nnd Itch ,
Bathe with puru soap anil tepid water
every night. After drying carefully , apply
carbolatcd vau'llue ; take Thyrodlno In thrci
drop closes morning and owning.
R. M. , St. lxmls.--Tako Testing In flv
drop doses three times a day for your coated
tongue , and for tlie bad taltc take Nntrol-
Ithlc Salt , ono teaspoonfut dissolved In n
half tumbler of water , before breakfast and
before retiring ,
W. B. I * . , New York. I nm n piano tuner
nnd car. troubled with u illscluuge from my led 1/1
car.Use
Use boraclo acid powder. Wash out the car
gently with pure waim water at n temper *
aturo of 100 deg. F. Take Cerebrlue , nnl-
mal extract , In thrco drop doses , three tlmci
dally.
U. 0. , Wilmington. For the mrlnncliollla
which you mention , take Certbrlne , extract
of the brain , In flvo drop doses , morning and
evening ,
I ) . U. Syracuse. . N. Y. For the depression
of spirits dependent on the Injury to the gen.
cratlvo system take Tcitlno In three tlrcp
doses thrco times dally.
A. W. , Washington. Your symptoms an
not those of locomotur ataxla , but Ccrebrlne ,
extract of the brnln , would bo an excellent
remedy for the nervous symptoms you men
tion. Take thrco drop doses , three times
dally , on the tongue.
Miss C. L. , BtifTnlo. For the anaemia which
you mention , take Cardlno , extract of the
heart. In five drop doses , morning nnd evenIng - ,
Ing , with ns much out-of-door exercise ns
possible nnd plenty of nourishing food.
W. T. I'AKKUU. M. D.
I * . S. All letters of Inquiry on mcdlcnl
subjects dlrccti'tl to the Uoltitnbln Chemical
Company , Washington , 1) . C. , will be nn-
swt'ntl free , either In these columns or by
mall direct.
" "
THE ANIMAL"EXTRACTS
The most wonderful therapeutic
discovery since the dn > sof Jenncr.
CliUHIIUINIi. - - From tlionr.il n.
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CAIjDINi ; , - - Prom the Heart
For diseases of the heart.
TESTINH , For premature decay.
OVAIUMR , For diseases of Women.
T 1IYROIDINI3 , for Kczoma and Impurities ot
the blood.
Dose , n Drops. Price , Two Drncfinm , fl.OO.
ALL DUUGG1ST3. Bend for Book.
rn.i.s
For Malarial Affections and all Inflamma
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Price , per box of 20 pills , COc ; 100 pills , $2.
N.VTKOl.lTIHC S A I/IS
For habitual constipation , torpor of the
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want of appetite , languor and debility. As
a mild , effective purgative It has no equal.
Price , COc per bottle ,
COMUIItlA CIlUMICAl. COMI'ANY ,
WiiihliiBton , 1) . U.
For ealtt by KUHN St. CO. , ICtb and Douglas.
Ladles and Gentlemen : It affords mo
Ki'i'ut pleasure to call the attention of
the public to my Yule's Jlnlr Tonic ,
which is the llrst and only remedy
known to chemistry that positively
turns ray hair back to Its original
color without ilye. 1 personally In
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my solemn Kiwranlee that it 1ms been
tested in cvori' yioneclvable way , and
"
lias proved itself"to be Hie ONLY Hair
Specific. It STOPS IIAIlt KALMNO
immediately and creates a luxurious
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'moves dandruff. For gentlemen and la
dies with hair a little gray , streaked
gray , entirely gray , and with HALD
HEADS , it Is specially recommended.
All ilniKKlstn ll'rlco. $1 ; nlRo Ynla'ii Bkln
I'YuxI. ' Jl.SOj Ynl 'n Complexion Crciun , Jl :
Ynle'n Knro I'uwilT , 60u ; Yule's lleauty
Snap. 25o Mme Ynle llralth ami Cnmn'.ex-
lon Specialist. Temple of Ilcauty , HU Stnto-
Bt. , Chicago. dulJe to Iteimty mailed frit' .
Infants'
Complete
Outfits.
Short'
_ , . .
Clothes.
- -4fe.
Ladies'
Underwear1
Send name nnd get Made to Order. ,
Illustrated Descriptive Lists Tree.
SCHULZ & CO. ,
CO U'nshlnjjton.nt. , CHICAGO.
' Formerly Dora Bctmlz Mftf. Co.
< hfhc | tiT < KnjIUb Diamond Hrana.
and OnUenulne. .
" utoiK * r-
J and Hull ui'U
lihtilMllVUw. Ti
Another. ; i / 4 i iijir uj nliUu. V
luim i 4 ( luii . M Orgiclui. or Mi4If. .
ta lUrnpt fvi jrtUHUt . inUmeaUU wkl
"llcllcf for | jiill ,1 > l WI" . tf rtlara
SlulL 10.000 T'"lnnoUHi , t llfir.
( bUt'U , _ _