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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 21, 1895)
THE OMAHA DAILY > BEE : SUNDAY , APRIL 21. 180R , PS' DIS Is the despairing cry of thousands afflicted with unsightly skin , scalp and blood humors. Do you realize what this means to sensitive souls ? It means isolation , se clusion. It is a bar to social and business suc cess. Do you wonder that despair seizes upon these sufferers when doctors fail , standard remedies fail and nostrums - trums prove worse than useless ? Skin diseases are most obstinate to cure or even relieve. It is an easy matter to claim to cure them , but quite another thing to do so. CUTICURA REMEDIES have earned the right to be called Skin Spe cifics , because for near ly twenty years they have met with the most remarkable success. MMMMBM BMMMI MMMMMMMMBHB HM M There are cases they cannot cure , but they are few indeed. It is no long-drawn out , expen sive experiment. A warm bath with CUTI CURA SOAP , a gentle application of CUTICURA ( ointment ) and a mild dose of CUTiCURA RE SOLVENT ( blood puri fier ) in itching , scaly , pimply , scrofulous hu mors are more convinc ing than all the talk in the world. nuuo A CHEMICAL , , conr . . , . EOLK rnoriUETOiu UOSTOX u. s. A. Woman's Domain. I.UUNOl.NU UAlt.UKNrS. Iho Ailornhlo Vitnt ( Irno Combing Jnckot The MBIT Ten down. It was like one of the beautiful holy vest ments one sees sometimes on stained glass windows , and as she slipped It on It was seen that the low. round neck was un- trlmmed , that the three-quarter drooping sleeves were caught up with three- blue but- ons , and that a narrow silver belt was re- qulrled to adjust the folds about the waist. It was lone and full all around , slightly trained nt the back , and there was not a rag of trimming anywhere. It was her now lounging gown , and she had taken the Idea from a church window. "Yes , " said the knowing wretch , "I did Indeed get my pattern from heaven from John LaFargo's new memorial window , "Tlicro are four angels In It , the most adorably stylish darlings ! and the moment I laid my eyes on their tea gowns actually you can't call their draperies anything else I said : 'There you are , my dear ! ' " "You see , " went on this very wise young woman , "tho mistake most of us make Is In following the fashion alone ; and nothing makes a woman so plain and frumpy as anything on the wrapper order that doesn't suit her stylo. Dig , slow-moving women llko me need straight lines and solid tones , with no hlghg collars to turn our faces Into full moons , or too big sleeves , But alt you YELLOW CKEPON HOHE. little , slim , svelte creatures may be flowery to the chin , and furbelowed to the tops of your heads , and bo all the dearer for It. "It's knowing your typa that makes your lounging gown a thing of beauty or a dire distress , so I copy John LaFargo's angels with gratitude , and thank heaven for the dreams that Inspired them. " And now a word to the "slim , svelte" com pany. Tea gown seems to be a demonde name , but the now lounging gowns and wrappers are more than ever tea gownlsh in elaborate ness , and when the garment Is white , rich and becoming , effects are often made by using the deep yellow laces , now to fashiona ble , as trimming. YELLOW LEADS IX F1WOR. Valenciennes Is the favorite lace In this qolor , and In narrow , half-Inch widths , It Is sewed plain or frilled over revers , collars and cuffs. If the gown Is yellow , as Is the very dresy-up rig here shown on one of the stand ing figures , the lace is white. The object In both cases Is to preserve -the combination , yellow and white , which Is bath beautiful and becoming , and the newest thing out. The material of the gown Indicated , anJ which may be recognized by the square rovers and lace shoulder flounces. Is crepon , ttu crlnkley weave , In buttercup yellow. The lace Is the misty white point applique , that Is now the rage , and the rivers are of but tercup satin with insertion let In. A crush collar of white satin ribbon finishes the throat , and there are also rosettes of the same. Besides crepon , which Is a favorite ma terial , many of the new dressy house gowns are shown In figured delaines and challles , and any number of dainty , plain and'spotted wools that seem to have no name at all. Lace trims them profusely , and with the collil tones , taffeta ribbons , In flowered anil striped designs , como Into effective play tor belts , collars end bows. Lounging gowns and wrappers of wash silk depart from all preconceived notions of the fitness of thlngf , and now trim themselves with muslin embroideries , DELICATE EMBROIDERIES. And here a moment with these muslin embroideries ; they are most beautiful. They an as thin as veiling and come In pal ; and deep yellows , violet , pink , blue , tender greens and pussy willow grays , and from five to twelve-Inch widths. They are Infinitely mora chic than lace , and are moderately Inex pensive. Moreover , the vulgar taste will pass them by , which makes them doubly to be desired. Two dainty morning gowns lately teen , of wash silk , were trimmed with mus lin embroidery. One of violet , ringed with \\hlte , had a wide violet muslin flounce , del icately embroidered about the nck and down one side of the front , the same drooping In elbow flounce * from the short , puffer sleeves. In a like sweet frou frou fashion a gown of appl ? blofEom pink , spotted with .white , was arranged with a pink flounce. Cottons , such as lawn , percale , batUts and dimity , have , of course , the regulation wash trimmings. French lace -and white em broideries. With these wash ribbons are alsi frequently used , auj though these ribbons are of the most fragile flower tints , they are warranted to stand water bravely. As to the shaping of all this dainty house A COMBING GOWN. loveliness , there are only thes ? rules ti follow. It your lounging gown Is to bo seen , I : to bo encountered on staircases or dtscov ered in beautiful window seat poses. It mug bo adjusted In some trim way about thi waist. Blowslness has long been the beti noire of man , and more than ono tloatlui Mother Hubbard has brought divorce and dls aster. Besides , It IB not coquettish to look as 1 you were given to wearing bags ; and th woman who loses her coquetry jnay as wel hang her harp on the willow tree forever. Oowni for strictly bedroom use , and t be worn during1 the process of the tolle should be of wash materials , and may bo i loose us liked. The combing gown her shown , and that Is a generous Imitation of a Japanese kimono , Is an excellent model for a spring bedroom wrapper. The figured ma terial Is Japanese crepe , which washes ad mirably , and the garment is lined through out and faced with China silk In a warm peach-blow shade , The crepe la also peach- blow tinted , with figures darker than back ground. The very dashing little waist Is a summer morning bodlco of ringed pongee , plain pongee gee , In the robin's egg blue of the rings , being kilted to form trimmings. NEW DRESSING SACQUES. Dressing sacquos are made loose with wide sleeves , and are , as a rule , without collars. A new dressing jacket on the market Is called the Sans Gene , after the play of that name. The darling original of this Jacket Is worn by Miss Kldder In the first act of the play , and It Is of orange tatln with full cas cades of whlto lace hugging the throat and wrists , and rippling down the front. Those In the New York shop windows are of wash silks In all colon of the rainbow , but they have the Sans Gent- shaping , which has a back In one piece and nightgown sleeves. New saut do Ills , the enchanting little "jump-out-of-beds , " that the French rend us every year , are adorably lovely. All are hand-made , showing drawn threads and ex quisite necJlcuork In some Instances , and these for midsummer wear ore of the dain tiest wash stuffs. One saut do lit lately shown by one of New York's smartest dress makers seemed to have the work of years on It. And yet when the whole garment was deftly folded It could easily have been placed In a two-pound bon-bon box without damage. The materials of this robs of angelic light ness were plain and striped Indian dimity and whlto footing. The striped portion , deli cate green flowered burs on a whlto ground , formed the gown proper , each tuck of whoso yoke waa hcrrlngboned with convent exact ness with pale green thread. A tight-tucked cap arranged In the same way formed the upper portions of the voluminous sleeves , and to the edges of the flounces that trimmed fronts and bottoms of the gown , a hem of plain green was hemstitched on. At the edge of this again was served the footing , all by hand ; a thing to make one's back ache just t , ) look at It. Yet such s'itchery was never seen ! NINA FITCH. KI8INU HAS CO.UK IN AUAI.N. Now Snlu tu Do tiln Approved Caress on All OcciiKlciiK. When two young women who met last week in the crowded shopping district of a big city , raised their veils , bent ovc-r and Im printed a hearty salute , lip on lip , those ob serving the little tableau declared It charmIng - Ing anJ refreshing In the extreme. The spectators Immediately forgot all about the old blue laws of etiquette against public demonstrations of affection. Now there may not have bee-n any affection lost between the two young women , they were probably only amiable acquaintances , or perhaps even deadly rivals , but such trifling considerations as private feelings never af fect women following a fashion. And kissing Is a fashion again , full fledged and In active practice , with all Its code of TEA GOWN AND DRESSING SACQUE. obaarvance * drawn In lines as hard and fast as convention can make them. It usurps the place of handshake and curtsey , of which , with their manifold variations , society has grown deadly weary. Every \voman this spring , on her dally round of tasks and pleasures , is apt to kiss half a score or more of her sex between eunrlse and sunset. Her philosophical mind Is not bothered in the least as to the possi ble hypocracy or probable disease lurking In this Up to Up greeting. In the street or theater , church or horsecar , elevator or shop , drawing room or ballroom , her kisses are dispensed as freely as hand clasps , and her conscience and health none the worse for It. "But It Is not always Up to Up , " Mrs. Grundy herself assured the reporter who was sent to Interview her as to the ceremonial of osculation , "and a kiss may convey just the same degree of tender affection , haughty disdain , Icy contempt , careless Indifference or rapturous welcome one would otherwise ex press by a warm hand clasp or chilling stare. "It all depends on how and where one offers or receives It , and It Is easy enough for a well trained eye to discover just the degree of Interest women feel In each other by the manner of bestowing this caress. The moil I ah hostess now kisses her guests ; of course only those of petticoat persuasion , as she receives. Younger women than her self bend their heads ever so little at cn- trcnco for the pretty salutation on the brow , a gracious condescension of age to youth and for guests of one's own years a light kiss on the cheek , mind you the left one , Is given. That hi the kiss of hospitality and equality , and only the most formal acquaintances does ono fall to salute In this fashion. To draw back from the proffered kiss of a friend Is to Inflict a terrible wound on evdn the least sensitive feelings' now that kissing Is In rogue and every one adopting the habit. Yet like everything else , kissing remember baa Its reserves and degrees. An odd fact Is that , fond as women are of It , very few ever offer or ask the greeting from the lips of another of their se-x. Brow , cheeks and chin they turn readily enough , It Is Up to Up only with sincere friends , and the saluta tion should b& executed gracefully , swiftly and almost silently. Not quite noiselessly though , When a woman meets another woman on the street they exchange smiles , the short veils are lifted ever so little , the first one's | mouth touches the second one's chin , just below the nether Up , there Is a sound like t ribbon fluttering In the breeze , not unpleas ant to the musical ear , and a man possibly would call It only half a kiss or a fourth oi a one ; to the participants It was eatlsfactor ) and made a pretty picture. They will prob ably criticise each other's gowns 'after turn ing opposite corners. It Is easy to tell glr chums by the veil lifted very high and tin two hearty salutes , fairly on the red lips exchanged with hands on each other's shoul der ? . and women who are relatives by th < kiss at meeting and repeated at parting. She who drops In for afternoon tea on on she hat reason to suspect Is angling for particular young man In whom the party o the fint part feels proprietor } " rights , give a deadly kits of jealousy through her veil. The jealous klao takes as many phases a there are variety In the clrcumttances brine Ingrivals together. It sometimes assume the guise of knocking your rival's hat wlcV edly awry with the wing of your snug llttl bonnet , ai you pretend to touch your chee against hers , or merely Brazing her chin with your cold narrowed mouth , or putting your arm tight cboiiii lir waist , In a hypocritical llttlo squeeze not affection , and giving her thrco or four/feather klrais as far away from her mouth her check wilt permit. Hut the triimpi ( ( of diplomatic kissing Is achieved by ti # wjomen who never kiss each other at all. r.Thay drop ever so gracefully Into each other's arms and by drawing their under lips against the upper teeth make a little sound on the vacant air that passes for a cordial salute , while the admiring world Is none the wiser for the mockery. It Is the younger girls , however , who meet on the theater or church steps , and , putting their forefingers under their chins , lift up the face to the- proper angle for Imprinting a greeting that Is a hearty kiss , firmly on the mouth. Many a miss offers her lips held apart like those of a child , moist and relaxed , or ruffles her lips to a French move , plaintive and appealing. As a rule , and the general practice of kissing brings It to light , American women have scarcely Idssable mouths. They are not full , ripe and satin smooth as the lips of Irish , English and Scotch women. That Is because of our dry , changeable air , and the mouths are therefore more typical of the French mouth , though when drawn back In smiling the Arrrlcan woman Is apt to show the prettiest , most even , white teeth of any nation , which Is supposed to con stitute a moutli'i first claim to beauty. FASHIONAHI.I : HANUWIGIIKS. Nerved with Afternoon Trn or In tlio Sinok * IMC Itnoiii. 1. Between two thin slices of pale brown bread , that have been buttered with snowy cream cheese , place tenderly n sea green leaf of crisp young lettuce , first dipping It In a bath of French dressing. If preferred , salt the lettuce leaf only. Make the quantity of sandwiches required , stack them neatly on a plate and place on Ice an hour before 6 o'clock tea. 2. Another , llko , but more hearty , Is two fraglb pieces of white bread , delicately toasted , encasing a few appetizing bits of breast of chicken and a curled leaf from the heart of the lettuce- that has been Immersed In mayonnclso dressing , and , In spite of Its baptism , looks combative. S. There Is no place In the world like Vir ginia for hams. They turn their hogs loose In th ? woods , In the Old Dominion , to feed on mast , acorna , chestnuts , beechnuts , etc. , be fore killing. Beside ? , they smoke their hams , never eat them under a year old , anJ when leady to bo cut they are dark In color , well seasoned and Indescribably good. A sand wich IK for the gods , and eaten at an after noon tea where there were about 200 "Co lumbia" students , this season , was made of whlto bread and Old Vlrlglnla ham chopped up fine , with mustard. . With a cigarette- and a "night cap. " a bite Is relished after coming In from the theater or concert at 11. Nothing Is easier to prepare or combines better with old Irish or rare Glenllvat , hot , with a slice of lemon , or even rye and water "Just so , " than two saltlneg , gluedHtogether with deviled trukey unstintedly applied. A substitute ; forl this Is rotted ham cr meats of any variety , or chicken , but none are so good as the turkey. A jaded palate , too , finds a certain Je ne sals quol of satisfaction In a caviar or anchovy chevy paste sandwlcnes , made with these same crackers. 6 , A trio of ham minced very flue , an egg beaten light and mustard ; lay this combina tion aside. Shave off a thin leaf of bread from the threedays' old loaf , after having buttered It lightly with melted butter. Now spread the trio over the bread leaf , cut Into sections a finger long and a finger wide , roll It deftly and pinch the ends artistically to gether. The only trouble about these Is that you will be obliged to make them every day for afternoon tea. An oU-fashloned revival Is for Moravian cake , with the cup that cheers. The word cake suggests an unpleasant sweetness that 111 bides with the hour of C , 'twlxt the dark and the- daylight , when your best man friend drops In for tea , but Is not In the best of humor. Offer him not then , If you value his regard , sugary cake on Amer icanism that every man abhors or he will never come back again , but go to your neigh bor's , who is such a lovely blonde , and al ways has sensible , uncloylng bread and but ter with her fragrant Ceylon. Moravian bread would bo a better name. It is merely a kind of rusk , and yet not a rusk. It Is a part of the bread dough taken out of the oven before quite baked , separated from the parent , reduced to a small half-Inch thick loaf , and thumbed Into deep Indentations Into which are scuffed lumps of butter , sugar In generous doses , and a peppering of cin namon. Those "extremely thrifty , clean people ple , the Moravlanssay it Is the thumb that makes the 'cak'tf good. But they are noted for their exccssM ) tleanllneas , rOBSIIIILrriE } & > it ) If TlhSUi : I'At'Eir. Tor Making 1'rrtty and Urnuraontal lion 'linn llnslieti. The other ay * 'l ' was awakened to the possibilities of tissue paper. For transitory ornament for nobody with as much prin ciple as I llkail to''fancy I have , dare claim a solid and per/tlanent merit In behalf ol tissue It realjjfj as many claims to esteem. And I had an Instance bcjoro inc. There was to be a gbjld/en's party , and a friem of the hostess' , ,1ft a few hours , manufac tured slxteen"sijanty | baskets. The founda tlon was a .tiny .paper cup , which she made In the usual manner. When I come , per sonally , upon a reclpo that says "In the usual manner , " I am of a mind to toss i Into my waste basket , a la editor , and In dorse It mentally , "Not available ; " there fore , 1 will explain that the usual manne Is to cut a circular piece of paper about thre times as largo as the bottom of th straight little cupyhlch you selcc for a mold , and to place the cup on th paper , exactly In the center and then , b creasing the paper to nt , to make a llttl fluted p out of the paper , Double over th edges , by first folding them over the rim of tins cup ( which makes an even and vcr visible crease ) , take out the cup and refolc the fluted paper cup. Now you have a firm , even little cup Paste a circle of pasteboard Inside on th bottom , and It will stand ftrmly. Sew a rim of straw around the top , and then cover th basket with a straight piece of the crept * tluue paprr. You paste U very slight ! round the upper edge , and the upper edge 'ou pasta on the bottom , ctittinR It at In- orvals , or not cutting but folding to make t fit , and over these edges goes a final and mailer round of white , stiff paper. Now you sew on the handles made of wire , several atrands twisted tORethj-r , skill- ully or clumsily , as a kind providence has ndowed the reader , there Is no way to tfach low to twist wire except orally , and , as It vere , by hand ! The wlro twisted , a half- nch strip of paper Is wound round It , which nakes the basket handle , Tha same sad ruth that obtains In regard to twisting wlro pplles to twisting paper about the wire ; you vlll make a neat and compact or a clumsy landlo as you wind the paper. The next step Is to new the handle on to ho basket. Then you place on a slnnlo or a oublo plaited ritlllo of the crepe paper. Vhen the paste ( diamond cement Is the best o use ) Is dry , the plaited rtlllle Is pulled out nto any shape desired. It Is a half Inch ere o higher than the rim of the basket , and makes a very pretty effect. To complete THREE : SIMPLE DESIGNS. he dainty little affair , a plain whlto tlssuo > aper circle Is cut and the edges ornamented n any way that the Ingenuity of the writer nay suggest ; this little napkin Is placed isldo and BOIIIO narrow ribbon Is tied about ho basket , concealing the edges of the lasted ruffle. Little boxes can bo made and ests and hen coops for Easter. Filled with lie smooth-coated candled almonds , they eem to bo filled with tiny CRRS , and are a alnty little reminder of the season. Till : CHIFFON ( illlL. nllor Mail < ! Sin ii'tnuas l Out of Ditto , l.uu i"Hi Loveliness Coining On. For a good many years we have been coking to England for our models of severe allor made fashions of dross , over Queen Anue architecture , Eastlake furnishings and icavy , solid smartness In jewelry. But the Yench have reconquered us again for their wn , the furnishings of the Louis and Em- > lre periods have Invaded our houses , the allor girl has given way to a chiffon maiden vlth wdo ! skills , loose sleves and languid uxurlos to correspond with her soft , flow- ng , sloping-shouldered lines , the jeweler has bandoned the crisp compactness of his set- ings to manufacture jewels Mich as Clarissa larlowe or Evelina might have worn. Nowhere Is the change more marked than n the bracelet. Instead of the- hard , narrow , ewcl-set band that clicked Into place around ii athletic arm , bared to the shoulder , the Urn white wrist that appe-ars from a mys- eiy of lace and transparencies Is bound oday by a flexible woven thread of gold , 'his ' bracelet , which lo no thicker than a nu"ll cord. Is drawn up or let out through a lldlng clasp In the shape of one largo pink > carl , and the loose end , generally about two nches long. Is finished with a pear-shaped 'ellow pearl ; the tint of early autumn moon- ghl. But the variation of jewels Is endless , ometlmes a ruby forms tne slide , or a yellow lamond the tag ; or a cabuchen emerald wings from the end of the cord , and a vhlte pearl and diamond adorns .the clasp. All manner of soft flexible chains are worn. A pretty collar has five upright slides of pale reen ollvlnes , between which hang nine gold lialns so flue and soft that one can scarcely lellcvo they aie woven of metal. The lone Venetian neck chain , to which the atch or lorgnette are hung , grows more opular and more splendid ; the little seed icarls at Intervals which the Venetian woman links quite flno enough not being suffl- lently luxurious for her more extravagant American contemporary. Their place Is sup- illcd by emeralds , turquoises , pearls as big is peao , or even that most extravagant o [ uxurleb pierced diamonds. Necklaces iiro made to match the bracelets , vlth jeweled slide and tag , and the long ihaln of diamonds descending to the waist jelt , which can also be wreathed In the hair , r wrapped half a dozen times around the vrlat , was made fashionable by the Countess e Castellane , and Is being copied by all the oldsmltha. A pendant , hung looKly around he throat by a thin gold chain , Is more ashlonablo than any other style of necklace , nd these pendants are usually In designs of cllcate Arabesques of tbe Louis XV , Inclos- K ono large gem. The same effect Is sought for the hair. The American female sovereign has quietly an- exed for her use the coronet which , In Eu- ope. Is only worn by the aristocracy , and It s no uncommon thins to see , during the pera season In New York , the wife or daugh- cr of a successful merchant or stockholder ilazlng In jeweled circlet whose diamond trawberry leaves and large single pearls jetwc-en would leave the average Englishman o suppose he was contemplating a duchess. The duchess' strawberry leaves are not the atest fashion , however. Tl smaJI closed rown of the princesses of the blood Is more opular. This Is worn rather far back , and s of the most exquisite designs In Arubsque , vlth large ; pendant , Jewels swinging loose be- wccn. A lady who pays for her crowns out f her husband's profits In carpets has just Iven an order for one made all of pale , straw- olored diamonds , with five hanging lire- pals that every time she moves her head wing lightly and shoot forth long rays of lame. Sheis a glowing brunette who has a ondness for pale yellow gowns , anJ the crown pen her dark hair will be a sight that most princesses of the blood would envy. This borullled , begemmed lady no longer carries the stern leather purse of her tallor- made forbear. Her portcmnnnaie , out of which come the crisp new bills that the > ank cashier saves to answer her cheques vlth , Is a rather largo square pouch of velvet ' ncased In heavy gold lliag'ree with tiny tur quoises or amethysts set ill the balls of the nap fastening. The garters with which she gathers up her open-work silk stockings are white ribbons > rocaikil with forget-me-nots and slipped hrough old-fashioned round buckles of tur quoise , or else with rose buds on the ribbon and rubles encrusting the buckle. She pins her bit of a bonnet to her head vlth a hat pin , whose head Is a tiny jeweled Iragon fly , for the dragon fly la par vxccl- enco the fln do slecle insect. The butterfly s nowhere beside him , and as for the lately > cloved frogs , grasshoppers , birds and snakes , hey have all vanished before the new comer. The dragon fly has his gauzy wings and lodkln-IIke body enameled with every known ; pm and with mixtures of half a dozen dlf- orcnt sorts. He Is worn In long slender irooches to hold fluttering laces In place , he 'astens ' the boas of sweet peas , violets or roses with which the young woman garlands her lovely throat this spring , he pins veils , and ho Is most splendid fastened to the deli cate gold wlro that bands lovely heads , and spreading his three-Inch wings of blazing diamonds above the left temple. E. B , AN ATIII.KTIO IIKJ.U : , Mr * . Jnck Aiitor Will l.e il tlin Athletic Sot nt Noirport Hit * Ruinninr. Mrs. John Jacob Astor , or as she Is most familiarly called , Mrs. "Jack"Astor , Is the best all-round sportswoman cither In or out of society's realms. She fences , rides , rows , shoot : ) , bowls , plays tennis , billiards , swims , can manage a bicycle with the most skillful as well as a yacht , and her latest accom plishment Is golf. From a child she has al ways been particularly fond of all out door sports. 1'hlladelphlnns remember well the pretty rosy-faced Ava Willing , who , In a severe black habit , her satiny hair caught up under her riding cap with a black ribbon , galloped through Falrmount park every pleas ant winter afternoon. At tennis she was always proficient. Today she plays as strong a game as a man. Every Wednesday afternoon last winter , she and her husband spent In the tennis court of the tennis building. She delights In singles and rarely falls In beating her opponent. She makes the prettiest port of n picture In her whlto tennis shoes and a tennis suit of black , which neatly escapes her ankles. Last summer her feats In the water ex cited the envy of many a timid belleat Ncw- iwrt. She Is a most accomplished and fear less tmlnuner. and when In the water wears black silk tights under hc-r skirt , because they glvo her unrestricted liberty of limb. Another accomplishment which few women profess is her cleverness with the cue. She learned as a child , being familiar with bil liards almost from her Infancy. Today Mrs. Astor plays as well If not bettor than any woman In the country. Both she and her husband are fond of the game. It Is said that Mrs. Aatur's ambition In reference to billiards Is duo to her deslro to be a worthy opponent of Mr. Astor. Perhaps there Is nothing this clever llttlo lady docs so well as shoot. A story told of Mrs. Astor In the Adlron- dacks , by Ross Hayes , ono of the guides. Is Interesting , and shows that with all her Bpcrtlng zeal , she Is still a woman , and a very womanly woman at that. She and her husband , with a party , were hunting several years ago , below Saranac. They had followed the trail lot a wounded deer , wh'ch escaped. Finally , after tracing It for an hour. It was cornoro.il. A shot In the throat ended the stag's misery. As It fell , Its great eyes seemed to fall beseech ingly on Mrs. Astor. As the anxious dogs ( lew at Its throat she burst Into tears , and begged that the dogs be called off. Up to that moment she had been as much of a sportsman as any of them , but the sight of misery aroused all her womanly feeling , In hunting costume of brown velvet , with buckskin leggings , alpine hat , game bag and a gun over her shoulder , Mrs. Astor could not Icok better In the most equlslto Importa tion from Paris. h | > rln ? Tnlilr Hcoiiratlnns , A flat has gone forth In the matter of table decorations. Pure Puritan simplicity Is the mode. Of course , with this now departure , the glass should be of flawless brilliancy , the china having the band and conventional cen ter decoration. The nupery soft , yet heavy , with a broad hem-stitched hem , Its only orna mentation being a strong lace of good depth , so as to fall below the edge of the table. As for embroideries , the crest or monogram finds In each corner an excellent place. Around it Is a wreath of buds , a spray of blossoms , or a pretty conventionalized bow- knot. Even the adjustment of the table nap kins Is no longer fanciful. They are sot In dignified angles at each cover , folded square , the monogram presenting Its artistic front as the only ornamentation. The "set piece" or center device of flowers has disappeared , and as its substitute Is the Bohemian glass bowl In vagno spring like tints. In this may bo placed a loose bunch of flowers , which can bo ut cither center or side , as taste dictates. Small bouquets are no longer in fashion. A single rose with long stem and rich foliage is sulllclcnt. Azallas will be the queen of flowers this season , and If not too great In magnitude , arc sometimes the only floral decoration , Wax candles can bo used singly or in pairs. The silver candelabra as a holder has a precedence now above all others , although Dresden china Is still In vogue. For shades there are dainty silks In shadow effects , em broidered screens of white and gold , as those done by the Turkish women , but all In com plimentary effects to make a charming en semble. Simplicity in every detail Is the one object sought by all leaders of fashion. TashInn Notes. Bonnet and toque strings are dispensed with in nearly all line millinery. Odd godet skirts of black satin brocades are very pretty. The designs are of me dium size. Millinery counters are covered with bright and beautiful sprays of flowers and tufts of foliage for spring hats. The latest black grenadines have flowery stripes of color , and are also Interwoven with colors so that they show through from the back. Buttons of cut steel , enamel , jet and gold , also miniature and rhlnestono buttons , are worn In the plastrons of silk waists. Very attractive hand mirrors- have silver frames In rich raised rococo work. Silver- mounted combs and brushes are also seen In this design. The newest lustre petticoats are trimmed In Spanish flounce effect. With full French dress skirts black moreen petticoats are worn. Pretty butterfly capes of velvet that reach only to the elbow , and sometimes only cover the shoulders , accompany many of the styl ish spring costumes. Three box-plalfs In front , two in back , on both skirt and waist , are seen on modish tailor gowns. Tweeds and cheviots are the materials In vogue. Two lovely novelties in cotton crepon are known as arbutus and clematis. These make up very prettily when trimmed with beurru lace and velvet ribbons. Striped blue and white , or black and whlto , Is very effective on dark blue , brown and black gowns , and changeable taffeta ribbons bens are especially pretty on dark-colored crepons. Ribbon is fie wed on the inside and at the bottom of the new circular dress skirt to clve a llttlo stiffness , and , In fact , rib bon is an Indlspenslblo addition to most of tlio new gowns. Capes of army-blue cloth are trimmed either with Jet or edgings and Vandyke points of heavy ecru lace. These are among the hundsomo modified styles for general uses. uses.A A dainty conceit for Easter Is seen In the side combs or wrought gold , punctuated at Intervals by turquoise and pearls. Gold lace work on the shell I * also seen. LIsso , Interwoven with satin ribbon , Is another novelty which Is employed for accor- deon plaiting , and rows of tiny spangles arc sometimes sowed on the edge of ( lie plaits with charming effect. Quantities of lace , spangles and ribbons are used , with fancy silks , velvets and open work embroidery without end to help on fashion's pot schema of decking bodices , wraps and bonnets with many kinds and colors. uaker OATS For the Dyspeptic and Epicure. The dyspeptic says of Quaker Oats , "How diges tible ! " The epicure , " How delicious ! " Sold only in 2 Ib. Packages. GOVERNOR JACKSON OF IOWA A Brief Biography of His Lifoancl Incident Connected Therewith that Arc Little Known and Will Interest Iho Public , Governor Frank Darr Jackson was born In Arcnilo , Now York , on January 2Gth , 1851. In May , 1867 , when ho was but 13 years old. ho moved to lawn with his mother , nml lo cated at Jcssup , In Diiclianan county. At tlila tlmo his father , Hon. II. W. Jackson , waa connected with the War department at Washington. Ills early education was a source of Brent care to hl parents , anil utter leaving the village school at Jcssup ho took a course at the Agricultural college at Ames , and afterwards went to the State University at Iowa City , from the law department of which he graduated In 1874. Ho was married to Miss Annlo V. llrock. of Council Muffs , In 1877. They have been blest with three sons Graden , Knrnest anil Frank respect ively. In July of 18SO Gov. Jackson moved to the little vllhiue of Oreone , where he formed a law partnership with Judge C. M. Orccne. As stated above ho has been very prominent In politics and for the past score of years has been almost constantly In the service of the state. Gov. Jackson Is a Master Mason , a member of the Kim Spring lodge , I. O. 0. V . and also a member of the K. of I' , lodge at his old home town of Greene. Governor Jackson has a remarkable well made up character. Ho Is energetic , thor ough , quick to think and act , and , above all. Is what eonio people would call "square. " Nothing is condemned by him without u thorough trial and Investigation , and llttld things are given as much respect and atten tion as the Important affairs of state. Ho Is curious , too , and having a sclcntlllc turn of mind ho likes to experiment and Investigate new Inventions and discoveries , for Instance when the celebrated soap manufacturer of Chicago , Mr. Kirk , gave to the world his dis covery , Ualn Water Maker , for transforming hard water Into soft , Iho governor's atten tion was Immediately attracted. Ho deter mined to Investigate , and a day or two ago stepped Into a prominent grocery and pur chased a two-pound package of this great preparation , In order that ho might deter mine Its merits. Like all others who are honest enough to give the new things a trial , he thought that Kirk had reached a success ful solution of one of the greatest of prob lems before tlio people. Some old fogies llko to stay In the old rut and will not even glvo now discoveries a fair trial. Governor Jack son Is not that kind of a man , Yale's Hair Tonic Ladles nml Gentlemen It affords me great pleasure to call the attention of the public to Yale's Excelsior Hulr Tonic , which Is the first and only remedy known to chemistry which posi tively turns Bray hair back to Its original color without dye. It has gene on re cord that Mine. M. Yale wonderful wo man chemist has made this most valu able of nil chemical discoveries. Mmo. Yale personally endorses Its action and gives the public her solemn guarantee that It has been tested In every conceiv able way , and has proved Itself to bo the only Hair Specific. It stops hair fall ing Immediately and created a luxurious growth. Contains no Injurious Ingredi ent. Physicians and chemists Invited to analyze It. It Is not sticky or greasy ; on the contrary It makes the hair soft , youthful , Huffy , and keeps It in curl. For gentlemen and ladles with hair a little gray , streaked gray , entirely gray , and with BALD HEADS , It Is especially r commended. All druggists sell It. Price ? 1.00. I Anybody Offers a Substitute Slum Tliom M.ME. M. YALE , Health and Comiitovtlon Specialist , Yule Temple of Itouuty , No. HOStatj Htruot. Chicago. Don't Be Discouraged DU. MABON'8 PILK REMEDY has cured thousands. It will cure you. Our remedy was originated by the leading- rectal Bpeclal- l t of London and 1ms only recently been Introduced In this country. It Is adapted to all forms of piles , external , Internal. bleed- Ing1 , etc. , and will cure every case , it cures because It watt mmlu to CUllIC , and not simply to relieve. We will send a satnplo fretto any one who wlxheti to try It. If wo did not have faith In It we would not do this. Your drugRlst keeps It , or will get It for you. Wo will send the Bumplo If you will write fof It. Address , DR. R. D. MASON & CO. , Missouri Volley , Iowa. "
