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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 2, 1894)
THE CXBCAIIA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , DECEMBER 2 , 1804. Woman's Domain. MOUHN1NO FASHIONS. Elian HIIU Makon n t linrmliic : Veil , Crepon n Correct down , l.ynx with Mourning ( Jnrb. frowbcro Is the tale of fashion better told than by the well-dressed passer-by , and In this way It Is now made manifest that the widow's cap Is partially tabooed , Very young women no longer seem to bo wearing them. They are considered bad form , as calculated In fact to direct attention to mere youth and possible good looks alone. I'"or the same reason the French collar and bonnet strings of white hemmed lawn are also forbidden the youngish woman. With the older face , however , they , as well as the cap , become entirely matters of Individual taste. As for the widow's bonnet Itself , It Is really a most Inconsequent affair , for young ' and old alike , hardly moro than a back ground for the draping of the volt. This , accordlngto the taste of the wearer , IB either of English crepe , wjilch. In spite ot headaches , continues to bo worn , nun'fl veil ing or spun silk , a now and effective ma- CRBPON MOURNING GOWN. lerlal. Veils of this spun silk are as light utmost as chiffon and are quite as agreeable to wear. They have sometimes a woven cropy border , or again an added one of Eng lish crcpo topped by a narrow fold of the same , and along with them are seen occa sionally really splendid ones of Brussels net , of a very heavy grade , arranged In a like fashion. .They , arc both decided Improve ments over the burdensome crepes and nun's veilings , but the first mourning veil Is gen erally preferred la tlio moro somber stuffs. . In length , the widow's veil runs all the way from two to thrco yards nnd a half. It may even bo longer It desired , and though many are bunched slightly at the temples to glvo an effect of width to tlio bonnet , again they may bo raised back of a flat crepe bow In front to create a look ot height. But It Is only In ( lie first weeks of mourn ing that the veil Is now \\orn over the face. To those Inexperienced In this sad line of shopping , the buying of first mourning gowns should call for serious thinking or else bo left entirely in skilled hands. It Is so easy to overdo a thing that Is new , to be Indifferent to a bow or buckle too much. And today , as always , the ethics of good taste demand that no superfluous ornament shall wear the melancholy dignity ot ser row's external expression. Of court o there are always trimmings In plenty for these who will have them. There are dull jets , and huge crepe sleeves and rustling arrr.uro silks , but plainness , easy flowing lines , and soft , retiring textures are the points that now distinguish the most correct black. In wools for street ai welt as house wear i crepon , grained or crlnkley , Is a favorite and dressy material. Ono very rich design In It and expensive ono has over Its frosty weave , which Is as heavy as a summer blanket , large ralsei blots that might almost bo likened to tears Another , quite as solid , Is woven In dill I grains , and this Is llkejVlse for-street wear The crinkled pattern Is preferred for house xiBO. and Is often as light and fragile as veiling , and In this weight affords mos gracious possibilities for draping. Other wools that are always permissible { or mourning are the priestly henrlottas I serges , diagonals and figures and flowery novelties. . After careful .sponging very dull camel's hair may also be used ; and through the mine process limited sponging Is no unlm portant factor with most heavy wools nowa days a rich and handsome effect can bo gained from a new highly glace material that seems to have no especial name. i In silk , besides the arinuro and dull gros grain , peau da goto , Is also admitted as mourning. A very beautiful and approprlat house drcsj , for deep mourning , lately seen had a slightly trained skirt ofpeau de sole i and a chiffon round bodice , that , Ilko the skirt , was without any sign ot stiffening. An effective and sensible street gown o English serge , trimmed with narrow mohal braid , had a habit basque , and over Its mod cratcly flared and utffcuied lower skirt i H , WEEDS FOR WALKING. double skirt effect that lifted slightly a the left side. With turi , Persian , astrakhan , lynx an the cousinly tittle monkey iklns , though a wont with color , are the only ones accounte strictly mourning. Black bear , Hudson Day otter and sea however , are frequent accompaniments t deepest crepe , and , Indeed , to Judge by th people one sees In the streets , In * "on emer gency , any sedate well dyed skin can bo used , NINA FITCH. 80UVKNIU CA.NULKH. A i'rctty mid Urfafut Art 1'ractlcoll liy a Clover tiavt York Ctrl. There Is a young woman living In that enchanted part of Now1 York known ns Cen- ral Park West wjiose boudoir Is the delight nd envy of her girl friends. The furnish- ngs are In terra cotta , oak and pink , but It s the brass candelabra which Is the beauty f the room , Ono day they will all rejoice In Ink candles with fluted rJnu and the finely aperlng pclnts tliat tell of expensive work manship. Another day they are blue , clear ven to enchanting. Next day alt will be ransparent white. And so through all the ays of the season. There are ten candelabra n the room and not ono holds less than ireo candles ' In lis branching fingers. How , hen , does th'e young woman keep them iup- lied without overstepping the bounds of lie pocket money > vhlch she declares Is all or month's allowance ? One day at a little luncheon party the wax aper sprits unbosomed herself thus to her fiends : "You have asked me how I get so many od so beautiful candles. And how 1 can ffon ) to light hem as the dusk dawns on nd even touch a candle to their feathery tips f the atmosphere Is dull and the day loomy. Well , I'll tell you. And to II- ustroto what I say we will work as I talk , naklng an object lesson In candle making. " Just hero a servant entered with a chafing Isli , a dozen composition candles , a ball of andle wick and some coloring substance. "Now , you see , " chattered the hostess , bile her fingers worked busily , "I have here ust common white candlea that cost a mere ong. And I shave them with this sharp ailfe Into this chafing dish. The alcohol amp will speedily make them Into liquid vax , as you will notice ns I shave. Now I lave finished and the dish Is full of the hick liquid wax. Now you bee I stir a llttlo f this pink dye bought at the drug store nto the liquid , and then I add this little rep of oil for fear the mixture should be too hick.x "Now , " turning to a little cabinet , "hero s a candle mould. I bought It at a fancy goods store. It holds throe candles. And 'hrough the center of each section I run a ilrlp of candle wick .iml tie it .it tach end. So ! Now I am ready for the melted wax. "Sthel , dear , " turning to the young lady at he left , "will you pour It In with this deep peen , while I stir all the time. And you , .taude . , on my-right , hold the mould steady ! There , ono Is filled ! Now flll the other. " In a minute all the moulds were full , and , hen , setting them away , the hostess pro- luced another set of moulds which also were Illed. And another and another ! Soon there stood flrmly on the window lodge enough candles to stock the most becandled apart- nents. ' . . " .Now"continued the hostess , when she could find time to speak , for the filling had been such rapid work , "you see I have plenty of link candles. Now , I'll deepen the color 0 red. The druggist toM me Just how to do It. See ! It Is a lovely carmine. Now we'll soon hive a brilliant set of these. Then 1 we want to do so wo can add blue and lave purple , as red and blue makes that shade- . When I want white candles I leave ho inlxture clear nnd simply pour It In my > retty mould } like this. And sometimes I make gray candles , and again yellow ones and then add blue to make green. " "There Is still another surprise , " chatted she. "Hero are some dainty candle sticks are they not so ? That I made out of brass wire. I twisted It with the aid of a few .ools ; and now I'm going to make souvenirs 'or this luncheon. Sec the candles are now Irm , " slipping a couple out of their tin iioulds. "and notice how perfect In shape they are , and how nicely they fit to the sticks. You sea they are made to order. Allow me , Ethel , to present you with the purple set. And you" Maude , let me give you the carmine ones. And hero Is the pink set for you ! And the white set for you ! " And so the luncheon souvenirs were gfven out. And the young women went homo re- lolcliiL' , not only In pretty gifts , but In the knowledge of having learned a very fine and useful household accomplishment. AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. HAKIM ) UAIIK. SuccoMtnl Cake l\liiklns ij by No Menu * n Mutter of T.tiolc. A woman who Invariably succeeds with her cakes Is generally looked upon/by lees favorec Individuals as the possessor of a "luck1 somewhat akin to witchcraft , which precludes the possibility of Its owner ever having heavy , burnt , soggy stuff. While some people may bs luckv , yet the greater num ber who fall do so from Ignorance of funda mental rules. ' Going "by guess" la a very-common prac tice , but far from commendable. Every household should have Its scales , measures and thermometer , and these should be in dally use. The pans should be of the best and kept scrupulously clean. The flour should ba good , butter sweet , and " eggs strictly fresh , and the Ingredients always mixed In the same order. A big bowl h In dispensable , and the same cup should' be used for everything. Before starting , have all the things ready. Say , the cake 'to be baked Is a current cake , for which the re clpo Is as follows : Two cups sugar , % cup of butter , 3 cup flour. 3 teaspoons baking powder , 3 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla , 2 cups currants. Have thtf currants cleaned'and perfectly dry Sprlnklp with flour , and mix with th ? hand till each Is powdered so that they will mix evenly through the dough. Any fruit or nut not floured will sink to the bottom. Measur the flour and add to It the baking powder sifting two or three times. Beat the egg separately , very light , measure the sugar one butter Jnto the mixing bowl ; have the re quired amount of milk nnd the vanllb ready and lastly grease the pan well with butte and cither flour thoroughly bottom and sides or else put a greased papen In the bottom. I'lrst cream the butter and sugar ther oughly , then add the yolks of eggs the the milk , then the flour , n handful at time , then the flavoring , afterwards the cur rants , and last , the whites of the eggs Th mixture must be stirred briskly and con stantly In the same direction always. A wooden spoon Is about the best , as the handl will not bend like n metal one. It takes great deal of strength for the final beating but unless it Is given the texture of th cake will be coarse. All loaf cakes shouh bj baked In square tins rather than roum and the mixture should not reach , the to by about three-fourths of an Inch , to allo\ for raising , else It will run over the side and spoil Its appearance. The temperature of the oven U a ver Important factor. It should not be too heat at first , or the outside will bake so muc sooner than th'e Inside as to spoil the cake Neither should It 'be too cold , or the cak will fall at once * If water dropped on th bottom hisses , 'It Is hot enough for baking If the cake shows .a tendency to brown to quickly on the top cover with a sheet o brown paper , If , on .the contrary , the bottom cooks too rapidly .set the oven grate be ncath It. Have the fire steady , and d not shake he stove or open the oven an ofte.ner than Is necessary. Test with broom spllilti'lf rio'tlilng adheres to It It i done through. Do not cut till cold , let ! cool gradually. Then remove from the pai It desired to Ice , It U better to leave tl the next day and then apply to the botton Instead of top , as this gives a smooth sur face. This Is true ot all cakes. Layer cakes take twenty minutes each t bake. Loaf cakec. from an hour am a quarter to three hours , according to slz and kind. A cup should bo about half a pint In liquid or hulf a pound in dry measure. Two cup represent a pound ot sugar or flour , exempt Tying the old adage : "A pint's a pound th world icund. " A bait-cup , representing Bl'l ' or fourth of a pint. Is taken s fou ounces. Four traspoonsful are equal to on tablcspoonful , and two tableapoonsful equate to ono ounce. These measure * are acceptec by all bakers. The yolks ot eggs are well beaten when spoonful can be Ukon up. The whites when they are stiff and can be cut with cnlfc. It Is claimed by some to be an ad- antago to dry the sugar and flour tlior- ughly ; If this Is done , care must be taken not to scorch them , nor add them to the ake while warm , MRS. E. F , A hU.m-lUUUS WAItimOIIK. Us * I.llllnn Ituucll'H New llom'o Tolloth Dcncrll.cd. Somebody says "only a beautiful woman an wear a beautiful dress. " If thh was , quite true there would not bee o many beautiful gowns worn , but now anil lien some radiant creature comes to the lorlflcatlon of the modiste's most recherche rcatlons , wth | a royal generosity of charms Imt makes up for the discrepancies of others. Miss Lillian Russell , for example , has some tunning toilets this season that In com- ilnatlon with her beautiful face and superb gure made her a queen of brilliants In more lenses than that of the star of a comic opera > y that name. , Her stage dresses In her latest role arp f a fanciful character not suited to the wardrobe of a woman in private life , but her irlvato wardrobe overflown with elegant lodels for arraying blonde beauty upon any nd all occasions. ArtUtlc house gowns with long flowing ines are a fad of Miss Russell , who appro- latea no doubt their superlatively becoming uallty for a figure that has a full bust and xpanslve hips. Of her tea gowns and negligees perhaps he prettiest dream of all Is a pink silk crepe f the exquisite blush tint of the pearly pink wild rose It Is made up over a pink silk Up of the same shade ; with gigot sleeves if pink satin , and a cape bertha ot black hrcad toco that gives an air of. distinction o the gown. The lines of the figure are uggcstod rather than outlined by a sash f pink silk. For deml-houe toilets for morning or after- ioon wear Miss Russell has a pronounced Iking for pretty fancy waists worn with ark skirts. A distingue toilet of this sorter or one who has a smooth fair skin , with Ight hair , consists of a black skirt , and a valst of cerise or clear cherry red silk veiled vith black. The skirt Is of satin made full , and flaring , nnd perfectly plain about the oot. The waist has a square yoke defined with , fine black thread lace In diamond attlcb design. The huge sleeves and entlte ewer part of the bodice arc covered with a Ino accordlan plaiting of sheer chiffon In ilack , put on so that the plaits run round he body Instead of vertically. A chlo street toilet that Is another trophy ot Miss Russell's latest trip abroad Is ot lark blue cloth , made with a flaring gored kirt , and tight fitting bodice. The front of the skirt Is a solid tablter of blue velvet , rom which rovers of the cloth turn bark upon the skirt , the revcrs being elegantly embroidered with cold. The Idea of an un der robe ot velvet Is carried out In the jodlce , which has a gltet of velvet , and revcrs corresponding to those on the skirt , alsd embroidered with gold. The girdle of his fellx gown Is wide and of gold embroid ery , a black velvet bow just In front being a cunning Intervention. A sealskin cape , and a IIR ) picture hat of blue velvet are elegant accessories cZ this dress. A dainty conceit for an afternoon at home that by Its very simplicity makes the beauti ful wearer the fairer Is of silvery gray crepe made over silk of the same tint. The skirt has two modest llttlo folds ot the goods about the foot , and at Intervals rabbits' ear bows of glistening silver tinted satin ribbon seem to hold the folds In place. There Is a surplice arrangement of folds across the front , a smart girdle and sash ends of the satin ribbon , and coquettish cuffs nnd a ficliu of sheer white mull to set oft the. bodice. A dashing dinner gown 1 % of black velvet with a deml-tralnod skirt and decollete bodice ice with sleeve puffs that are very largo. The neck and the foot of the skirt are bor dered with a fluffy mass of gray marabout feathers that glint from pearl to dove gray In shade. The front of the dress Is orna mented with pendants and connecting loops of gold shaded Into harmony with the gown by an admixture ot pearl and black cords. An exquisite ball gown Is ot superb white satin brocaded with silver. The deml-tralned skirt has two panels , one on each side of the front breadth , of Honlton lace. The bodice Instead ot ending at the waistline is contin ued In short basques that glvo It the effect of melting Into the skirt. About the upper part ot the skirt , falling from under the basque of the bodice , Is a flounce of the lace corresponding to the side panel bands. This is put on full enough to hang easily but not full enough to hide the pattern , which Is one of the charms of elegant lace. The decollete neck Is outlined with a nar row band of lace the points turned down ward , and there Is a full plaited fold of the satin across the bust Just below the lace , ending In the arm seams and caught together In the center with a jeweled brooch , as for Instance an immense opal of wondrous beauty set In many small diamonds. The sleeves are single puffs to the elbow , and over them fall a deep epaulette light ! ) ' strapped through the center to make two small capes , which are bordered with the lace. DINAH STURGIS. A Society \V < > man's JMvcrilon , Mrs. Alfred Bishop Mason Is probably the only woman In the States who can take out a locomotive engine. Certainly , she Is the only society woman able to accomplish this feat. feat.When When her husband was vlco president of one of the large Florida railroads , Mrs. Ma son always went with Mm on his annual trip. She had been as a girl Intensely Interested In machinery , and It was with her an Insatiable desire to take an engine over the road. And she learned to do It In fine fashion. She b gan by gaining the permission of the engineer to sit in the cab with him ; not do ing anything but swinging on , and familiar izing btrself with Us swing and' the work required for Its movement. She says this was one ot her most thrilling ! moments. Tfrjbo able to sit with her face toward tlicraruiil that almost engulfed her. peering out Into the darkness that rushad past , and being blinded by the glare of the great flre > a the furnace doors swung open to be roplpnJs hjpd. Her noxlriesson wo * learned at the whis tle. Thpircamo the bell cord and soon these two functions were left entirely to her hands. As a. train drew up to a station In Florida whero-Mrs. Mason was waiting , tho- engineer and fireman Immediately made room for her. She know every one by name on the different locomotives and they all knew her. Proud was the engineer when Ills-cab contained the bright wife of the vice president. Her teat on the bcnoh near the window was knottW by the telegraph operator nnd the statlorwuuvls a3 the engine canio up , and all had pleasant greetings for her. So , In time , she mastered the moro difficult tasks , those that required nerve nnd skill , anJ could take an engine from the Atlantic to the Q HIT or Mexico as well as nn old en gineer ; and these latter were very proud of her ; one of thb oldest men on the road re marked to liw' once , "Whenever your hus band gets out ot a Job , Mrs. Mason , just come down here and we'll put you up 'In the union.-4 " i CHINCHILLA. Tlio Molt I'nsliioniblo l' < ir of tlio Winter la i Announced. - Fur wus.once * defined by a , witty French man as "line pau qul change do' bite" ( a akin that changes Its wearer ) , and fashion has decreed that we shall all array our selves this winter at the expense of the llttlo rats known as chinchillas. The name Is Spanish , as the animals are natives of Chill and Peru. They are about the size ot a small squirrel , but much less active than our own frisking , frolicsome flashes of fur , 'with very large round ears , covered but slightly with down , -They use their fore paws to convey the food to their mouths , which nro but half as' long as their hind legs. Being of a gentle nature , with no fighting In- , stlncts , their ohly chance ot safety lies "in flight , to they burrow In the mountain slilss long tunnels , whose depth and extent enable them to elude their pursuers , They are hunted by dogs , who are trained to take them without injuring the fur. The ancient Peruvians used to weave very beautiful materials of the plucked hairs , which were > used only by royalty. Probably one .reason of the popu larity ot this fur at present Is that In 1830 the French naturalists first gave their attention to the chinchillas , being en abled to verify the statements made by Molina many years before by observing some of the llttlo animals which had been brought to the "Menagerie of the Museum" In Paris. Public attention was drawn to them. The fur became the fashion. As we are now inasquerad'ng in the costumes of that period we , too , must wear chinchilla. There are three grades of the fur. The cheapest comes of a cross breed and Is rec ognizable by Its darker color and shorter fur. The second In value Is the real chin chilla , but taken from an old animal , whll : the very young ones furnish the most beauti ful and valuable skins. Ot these the fur Is long , the color a light paarly gray , and In certain llghls.there Is upon them a tllkeii sheen thatj Is ; much admired by connoli- seurs. Tha mdfhs are more appreciative of chinchilla than ot any other fur and seem to have an Instinctive preference for the best. Through the summer the furriers wage In cessant war jvlth these destroyers , never allowing the made up articles to bs put away ; * ' / * V 'r 'V.V ' * ' ? > ' -i ' ' f . l/.v LILLIAN RUSSELL. In the dark , but ) they are1 kept out In the open daylight .and ' frequently nlred , while the skins"'theriitiel'vea ' are kept on Ice. Irrm tcflijlc Treatment' Why should any woman be on unpleasant reflection to herself In the mirror , Is the query of varied curlsts of the day. There are tonics , tp fatten and exercises to re duce ; athletics to produce strength and color , and > dyes to. subdue or brighten the slmdo of one's hafr. * * Is the complexion bed ? Then cosmetic. ! and coloring jmitttr'nre pushed aside to give way to massage and steaming , for the method of personal art Is growing more healthfu every day. The manicurist and tha hair dresser cire for the two extremities In an artistic manner , and the curves that nature or gymnastics have not sufficiently developed arc left to the art of the couturlcre and the Eouth's staple production. But , wall women , given figure , complexion , and coloring com plete , one'cOtaturcs remain often a serloUt blemish. Jjl Just here Is where the surgical curlst , the. dermatologist , steps ID. Those "ipoifiojters" of good looks claim to arrange 4 liiVmonlous contour In the features that nature thought wise to neg lect. lect.Should Should , thdfttrehead wrinkle , small silts are made ajttjio lunctlon where the hall grows , and the skin pulled up smooth am taut , and a bit of adhetlve plaster put on and the waflBi tfoon heals. If the cheeks are Inclined tovbpmaggy , " wrinkle deeply about " the mouth and"eeem to lack muscle , the llttlo Incisions afe-made In the extreme outer surface ot , the cuticle by the ears and the same method employed. These bits of neai " turgery require "skill , but are not danger ous , as the operation Is confined entirely to the top layer and not extended to dangerous depths. Also , the marking leaves no scar , and the pain Is Incidental. However , these are the tlmpler opera tions. For the changing of the features more skillful and compromising treatment Is advanced. One's hose can be enlarged or narrowed , the ears can be put at a different angle , the eyebrows bo thickened or thinned , and the eyelashes made longer. Thli Is done by fine Instruments , and In the case ot those sufficiently venturesome to try the experi ments , the result has be n most satisfactory to patient and dermatologist. A nobler test ot the curtnt'a art Is to punctuate the eyes with a harmless solution that broadens the color line or deepens It , as the case Is desired. This In an operation thai Is doubtful , and been tested by a minority only. only.Puncturing Puncturing the cheeks with a solution of routine * nd clycurlne with other compon ent parts that are not Riven away by the preparer Is a trick of Iho trade that Is more popular. Small needles are used , and the coloring matter Injected tinder the epidermis produces a roseate glow that pervades for at loxil a year. As to the wisdom ot these proceedings toward personal adornment the Individual must choose. Ono may question the Judiciousness of tha course , but the fact ex- Isti that It Is done. done.ADELB ADELB McALUSI ER. "t'nt IlinUotK. " WIlli every second girl racking her brains In an effort to think ot Inexpensive Christ mas' presents , the small , round Japanese "cat basket' ( which nro nohl In all fancy goods stores for 5 cents apiece ) , should stand head of the class for prettlness , economy and gen eral usefulness. Three of these baskets placed In atrlanlennd ' ( _ fastened together with a bow'of ribbon , make a charming "catch all. " Ono basket llnod with a bit ot bright silk Is a dainty ring or stud case , and If the round opening be filled with a plump llttlo cushion , behold a place for pins , and by stufllnir the : > atket with a pleco of coarse netting fur nishes a splendid place to stick one's halr- ns. i By making a silk bag top with double Irawlng strings the basket Is transformed ; nto a hair receiver or travelers' sewing bas ket , and , fastening a pen brush In the hot- : om , makes a model pen wiper for some Im- mllent "scribe. " An Illuminated brestlo board cover fastened with baby ribbon gives a "bon bon basket , " which will gladden the heart of any child. Although the baskets are a pretty straw color , they may bo made very artistic by splattering with gold paint , or giving them a coat of white enamel with monogram or lines 'n gilt. KB ulilon NntuH. Braiding still appears on many smart coth ! gowns. Black velvet shoes with tiny paste buckles are worn with black velvet gowns. The long-waved Astrakhan fur called 'Caracal" rivals the closer Persian lambskin as a black trimming. Spanish yellow or bluet-blue velvet blouses , .vlth . mutton-leg sleeves , of brocade or satin , ire made by London tailors to wear with black or brown skirts. Waist and hip-length ermine capes ( with small drum cuffs to match ) are this season worn with opera nnd theater toilets , and at day receptions and high teas. , . Sets consisting of hat , collarette , nnd muff o match are greatly favored , and for.after- 10011 teas , calls , and receptions , when heavy lurs are too warm , are very dressy nnd use ful. White shoes for dress wear are being made In a white and silver brocade on the supposition that the pattern of the brocade Breaks the unbecoming whiteness of plain kid or satin. Beaver of all colors Is still favored In mil linery , and chestnut brown satin beaver trimmed with sable , with knots ot brown and dark green velvet , forms a very stylish and pretty hat. A'feattiro of London shoes Is the brogulng , which Is holes punched In the leather In a pattern. This season a color to match or harmontzo with a costume Is Introduced under the brogulng. Says the Drapers' Record : " . /Vrtlflclal / whalebone ix now made from leather strips , liy means of chemicals , high temperature , ami heavy * pressure. Originality , even In whales , promises to be at a , discount soon. One'of the newest patterns In s'csvcs has a stitched down box plait from the neck to the shoulder , w-Jiere It develops Into one of the folds , of the sleeve , which sags vety ntuch toward the elbow , , .Some of the newest vlctorlnej of mink , otter , seal , and ermine lm\e long "stole" ends that reach the skirt hem. Some arc lined with black or brown-but the majority have a gayer lining of cerise , petunia , Persian mauve , or old rose moire. Black and Lincoln green Is a favorite combination ot the season that has about It an especial dash and htyle. An appropriate trimming for a gown of this scheme Is jet passementerie studded with emeralds In the new Jeweled effects. Some stylish evening capes are made of cerlso red velours trimmed with cut-Jet ara besques of the richest description. There Is a high Medici collar , densely covered with the Jet garniture , with the merest roll of otter fur at all the edges. Seal , otter and Alaska sable sets are most worn , the hat or toque trimmed with sable tails , the collarette sometimes formed of a deep fringe ot sable tails falling from a small capo collar. The muff Is either wholly of fur or of velvet edged with fur. Dlrectolre collarettes with the popular godet fullness added at the lower edge are worn In several sizes , from eight to eighteen Inches deep , each having a high storm collar of the same fur. but as a rule the entire collarette Is edged with another kind of fur. The row godet pleats for sleeves give to those already mammoth affairs an added touch of amplitude. The p'cats stand out In three straight loop ] from the shoulder , their size being In many cases apparently only limited by ability to buy material. Frmlnlno NntiM. Mrs. Bradley-Martin has bought the diamond mend crown once owned and worn by Marie Antoinette. The superintendent of the hospital at Lee Chow , China , Is Dr. Annlo Walter , a Missis sippi woman. In the Madras presidency and the Bombay presidency ( Hlndoostan ) the women exercise the right of suffrage In all municipalities. Dr. Y. May Kin , the first Chinese woman to rcc3lvo a medical degree In America , has a largo practice In Kobe , Japan. Thcro'ure only two women In Great Brltlan who are entitled to add Lli I ) , to their names , and they are both Belfast girls. Miss Frances II. Gray Is the latest to be so honored by the Royal university of Irclind. The Princess Allx received the names Alex andra Feodorowna , and tlio title of an ortho dox Russian grand duchess In Russian lan guage , "Blagovernala vellkaja knaglna. " After the ceremony of confession she received the communion according to the orthodox rite. It Is also reported- that at the same time the exchange of the rings took place. Marie Antoinette's lace shawl , which she on the scaffold gave to her father confessor , the Abbe de 1'Onne , Is In the possession ot the Church of NeundorIT , In the county of Glatz. The Abbo de I'Orme , who emigrated , left It at his death to the Prelate Strobach In Brcs- lau. It has since passed tnrough the hands of two or three clergymen , and was finally presented to the church at Neundorff by Pas tor Helnrlchs. At the next session of the Colorado assem bly , and at the first session ot the body In the new state house , three women will take their seats In the house of representatives. Of these three , who are , respectively , Mrs. Cresslngham , Mrs , Holly and Mrs , Klock. the first two are New Yorkers. Mrs , Crej- slngham was born , educated and married fn Brooklyn , and Mrs , Holly's home was in New York City up to five years ago. There Is a curious custom among the daughters of the house of Hapsburg , whose bridal trains , instead cf finishing an honor able career in the ball room , ore bestowed after the ceremony on the church whose sacred floor they have swept. Only the other day , during the centenary celebration at Renneweg , the altar floor was covered with a eheen of satin and silver , mellowed by the breath ot age , that had once formed part of Marie Antoinette's wedding garment. The harrowing tales sent out through the country as Indicative of New York social life are having their reactionary effect. A woman living In a Connecticut town wrote last week to a city friend that she had : re versed her long-held Idea of sending her daughter , a young woman of 17 , to a New York school this fall. "To be quite honest. " she wrote. "I am frightened at the stories I read of the excesses of Now York society , I do not want my daughter to get In any such atmosphere. " The next convention of the World's Wo man's Christian Temperance union , a body composed of delegates of national temper ance organizations ot women throughout the world , will meet In London In June. The meeting will probably cover two or more days , and Include a great public assembly In Queen'i hall. Preparations for these gath erings , which promise to bo ot some Im portance , are being made. Including arrange ments for the reception of ile'egatei from the United States , Canada and Australia. Cook'u Imperial. World's fair "highest award , excellent champagne ; good cfferves- ence , agreeable bouquet , delicious flavor , " RUSSIA'S ' ROYAL 'CZARINA The Beautiful.Princcss Who Will Reign Bc- side Nicholas II , HAS A POSITIVE 'MIND OF HER OWN All * ! . < ! a I.hcly Clilldliooit l.nt IK Now n Iliinlr ClIrMUin Itefusml to Declare Her llrllglnn Accnr.iml. LONDON , Nov. 21. ( Special. ) Princess Allx , tlio future empress of Hie young Czar Nicholas , Is far more English In sentiment and training than many ot her English cousins. From babyhood she lias been sur rounded by nurses , attendants and gov ernesses selected nt Windsor and Balmoral , ami since tlio age of C she lias beer motjiered and cared for almost exclusively bjr her royal grandmother , Queen Victoria. Princess Allx of Hosso la tlio youngest living child of tlio Into grand duke and duchess of Hesse Darmstadt , and her mother , Princess Alice , was tlio most popular of tlio English royal 'family ' , and her love and do- PUINCESS ALIX. votlon to her mother were touchlngly proved In tlio remarkable , volume of letters pub lished after her death. Her widower's fool ish Intrigue with his Hussion ambassador's wife , Mine. Knlomlnc , did not destroy Queen Victoria's affection for her dead daughter's "adored Louis , " Princess Allx Is tall nnd slender , fair hair and blue eyed , with a refined , sensitive face. She looks older than her 22 years , and has In her short life known many ser rows. Her mother died when she was only G years old , although she was fortunate In the possession of a particularly admirable and thoroughly competent nurse , rejoicing In the typical English name of Orchard. Her childhood , save for tha long visits she paid to her maternal grandmother , were spent In comparative seclusion , for her three sisters , Victoria , Elizabeth and Irene , were all con siderably older than herself , and her friend and playfellow , 1'rlnce "Ernie , " was soon taken away from nursery life and put under the guardianship of tutors and soldiers. As the princess grew up she became far moro her father's companion nnd friend than any of her sisters had ever been. Her governess. Miss Jackson , proved a kind and- Indulgent guide , philosopher and friend to the lonely young girl , nnd owing to her of- 1 crts Princess Allx may bo said to bo a highly educated woman In the best sense of the term ; she la widely and well read and naturally possesses French , English and German "a fond , " Years passed by and the princess showed no disposition to make ono of those early marriages which are so common among European royalties. It was sold , and I be lieve with reason , that Queen Victoria wished ( .o sco her favorite granddaughter mairled to her heir presumptive , nnd accordingly firstly the duke of Clarence and , after his tragic death , the duke of York , were a good deal thrown with their pretty cousin. The prince of Wales , wlso In his generation , has always discountenanced German marriages , and It was owing to his Influence In a great measure that Princess May of Tcclc , the daughter of n really popular and English born princess , was finally' selected by Ilrst one and then another of his sons. As long ago as the jubilee year , when the Princess Allx was a llttlo over 15 , It war whispered that the czarcwltch was much at tracted to the orphan princess whose clcso connection with the Russian royal family Is scarcely recognized even now. Hesse Darm stadt , though a small German state , has already given thrco empresses to Russia , Including the much-loved Czarina Marie , the late czar's mother , a woman of sterling goodliest , whose great hearted charity made her adored by the Russian peasantry. The marriage of the Princess Ella to the late czar's brother , the Grand Duke Serge , also drew the families closer together. Princess Alix was constantly visiting her sis ter In Russia , and It Is said that from the first Alexander III. expressed great Interest and affection for his young cousin , although he by no means hastened on his ECUI'S en gagement. At last , after a prolonged tour through India , Japan and Siberia , Uie czarewitch ex pressed his determination to settle down , but Princess Allx showed no undue Imsto to avail herself of the brilliant propositions made to her , and she only consented to his formal be trothal on the occasion of her brother's wed ding to Princess Victoria Melltn of Edin burgh , the second daughter of the duke pf Coburg. On that occasion the whole English and Gorman royal families wero. gathered together , but so llttlo was the engagement expected that the young emperor of Ger many , not crediting the message sent to him , ran through the streets ot the picturesque llttlo town of Coburg , and elbowed his way through the crowd surrounding the royal schlosn In order to ascertain for himself the Joyful fuct , for to him the marriage of the future czar to a German princess was nat urally a great reason for self-congratu'atlon. "Grandma , wo have como to tell you of our betrothal , and to ask you for your blessing , " the czarewitch said to the queen when telling her of his own and the Princess Allx's en gagement ; but although the young couple were overwhelmed with good wishes from far and near , the czar and czarina being of tha first to EC nil substantial tokens of their warm approval , "tho course of true love" has not by any menns run smooth. The late grand duchess of Hesse , Princess Allx's mother and most revered example , had openly expressed her dislike to the change of rcllgltn being made a condition In royal marriages. This point Is touched upon several times In her letters , and It Is only natural that her daughter should have felt sensitively on this point. Still It Is clear that the czarina of Holy Russia cannot be any thing but orthodox , and the engagement had scarcely been , announced when two Greek priests were sent to Instruct the princess with a view of her Joining her future hus band's ' faith. The princess lent herself with fairly good grace to all that was proposed till Bhe found that she would ba required to de clare that her late- religion was "accursed. " This she absolutely refused to do , and as a consequence the marriage was at ono time almcet broken off. A'ter many "pour-par- Icrs" the primate 'of the Greek church con sented to alter the form of abjuration to the words , "I Join the Greek church In order to bo of the same religion 0.1 my future husband and children. " and until this was clearly nml publicly stated the princess would not even consent to consider the question of her change of faith. Princess Allx , since the death of her father , has been the guest of her brother at the grand ducal palace of Darmstadt. There she had and has her own suite ot rooms Illlcd with portraits ot her English relations and friends and lined with books old and new , Gorman and English. Her marriage was to have taken place two months before the czar's fatal Illness , had It not been for religious difficulties , and the fact that she hervelt was In no hurry to be gin her now life. Unlike the czarewitch , who is painfully nervous and to whom even the notae of a seltzer bottle being opened pro duce * n painful impression , the princes * has extraordinary self-command and much of her grandmother's sterling good sense ana knowledge of the world. Often It has been her part to act as peacemaker between her sisters and their husbands , and bad It not been for her the Grand Uulto and Grand Duchess ftergo would have been separated long ago. It was the knowledge of this tact that made the czar first conient to the thought ot her marriage with his eldest fton. For In Hui-Jiia , czarinas have always played an Important part In the affairs ot state. ADKLE MAIIOC. A NOVEL ENTERTAINMENT TO LADIES ONLY. -ON- HEAUTY CULTURE J PHYSICAL CULTURE AND THE COMPLEXION I ljIII" world fuinoiiK lIKAUrY mill COAH'l.KXIO.S Hl'KI.'IAI.IST , MME , M. YALE , AT- FRIDAY T'f'h /til AFTERNOON , . , AT 2 : ( ) M. TICKETS NOW ON SALE at Box OlHcq of Thenter. Secure your Henti In advance. as hundreds will be turned uwny. A GUAM AM ) GLOKIOUS REVELATION ' To the world. Hcauty can be cultivated youth restored and preserved. Wrinkles and every tracq of ngo removed ! Gray half turned back to Its original color without dye. J113U DAX4I..INC. IJ13AUTY. MMEX. M.YALEU THE PERFECT WO ilAN. Who at 41 looks as fresh and lovely as any bsatity ever teen at 18. Showing the power of her art In preserving youth and cultivating beauty. Ladles , bring your note-books and pencils to take down valuable recipes to bo given you by Mmo. Vale. Hcserved Seats at Box OfUco of Theater. price CO cents. Lectures commence at 2:30 : sharp. Doers opan at 2 o'clock. Grand Musical Programme. LADIES ONLY. Ladles arc respectfully requested to ba promptly seated nt 2:30 : p. m. MME. ffl. YALE ' i U I Lit , APPEAU IN Athletic Costume , And create a sensation on her Mnrveloua Cultivated Beauty of Face nnd Form. HER CONFIDENTIAL ADVICE. Ladles who attend this lecture will receive- < Mmo. Yale's confidential ndvlco and Instruc tions , which cannot be obtained outside ot this lecture. GENTLEMEN POSIITOLYHOTADMITTED THE PROGRAMME : How to develop the bust. How to walk. ! j How to cat. 1 How to sleep. How to preserve health. How to cure female weakness. How to cure liver or kidney trouble. How to euro and prevent consumption. How to euro constlpntlcn. How to develop chest nnd lungM. How to make the llgtirc erect. How to Increase height. How to straighten the limbs. How to develop the limbs and make them shapely. How to develop the arms. How tq nuiku the hands nnd feet small nnd Bhupely. How to Increase flesh. How to make flesh firm. How to reduce flesh. How to obtain perfect health nnd prcsorvo It. How to breathe. , JL\ \ How to live. ' How to remove wrinkles. ' How to cultivate natural beauty. How to b'ccomo young again. How to preserve youth. How to obtain a perfect complexion. How to remove and cure Moth Patches , Freckles , Blackheads , Acne , Kczemaj Sunburn and Tan , Sallow-ness , Plmplea , Coarse Pores , and any form of Complexion Defects. > MASSAG-E. I Its Importance and proper movements. Ho\v to make flabby flesh young and youthful. i How to restore the loss of contour. How to flll out sunken cheeks. How to make oyys clear , sparkling , brilliant and beautiful. i How to make a thin , ecrawny neck plump and white. How to make the cheeks naturally rosy. " . How to make coarse pores fine , grained. ' How to make the brow smooth and white. How to make the mouth shapely. How to make the lips full and ruby red. IN ATHLETIC COSTUME , Will glvo practical lessons by going through the different movements of her cystem for developing and making perfect the female form. EXPRESSION. How to use the eyes. How to laugh. How to educate the expression by the power of thought , showing the Influence of the mental qualities to educate the physical. Every organ of the body subject to the men tal forces when In a healthy state of actlpu and under the careful guidance of a cultivated 'A ' restraint. * THE HAIR. How to cultivate a thick growth of eye- brown and laalieu. How to restore gray hair to Its natural color without dye by circulating Its natural coloring matter. How to stop hair falling In from 21 hours to ono week. How to create a luxuriant growth of hair. How to keep the hair In curl and arrange It becomingly. How to remove and cure the growth of BU- pcrlluous hair , IMPORTANT MENTION. This lecture to bo given by flme. Yale will verify woman's progress and Inventive genius as nothing else has ever presented Itself In the history of the world. It Is every woman's duty to attend and celebrate the victory over old age. GUIDK TO BEAUTY. Ladles living at a distance or those unable to attend thcso lectures are Invited to send their name and address with 6 cts. postage , and Mine. Yale will mall them her Guide to Beauty , a dainty llttlo book containing extracts - tracts from the Madame's famous lecture * and valuable advlco on cultivating beauty. Consultation free at Temple of Beauty or by mall. Addreia all communications to MME. M. YALE , Headquarters 140 Stats St. , CHICAGO , ILL. Amrded Ilighesl Honors by the World's Fair ,