18 THE OMAHA DArLY BEE : SUNDAY , NOTEIStBER 18 , 1804.
Woman's Domain.
( HMVN.S.
What the Hoclotjr Ulrl Will Wnnr to Kvon-
me I iiiirtloim Till * \VluKT.
NEW YORK , Nov. 14. ( Soclal. | ) ) In the
aplendld old days of patch and powder , ol
high heels and rouge and Btatcly brocade
when the fashion for mounting the hair or
vast cushions came In , the sedan chair thai
took Belinda to the rout underwent also t
change.
IU roof has raised n pair of feet at least
and curved Into a dome to accommodate hei
towering toplcnot ; and today II seems almos
as If loner dead Belinda's sweet descemlan
must soon need wings added to her carriage
In order that her eyor growing sleeves am
many gored skirt may likewise travel to tin
dance In unrued excellence.
Some of the new evcnlnj ; brocades , which
wo are told , are soon to take the place of tin
more matronly moires , are enchanting revela
tions. In texture they seem created to en
( lure longer than life Itself ; nml , togethei
with now and novel designs , ore seen man :
of the dainty patterns of the long ago.
One , with a cold whllo background , i :
Btrewn with wreaths or magenta pink roses
tied with ribbons of the same shade. An
other Is shown with little foolish rosebuds
red , with stiff stems and green leaves , llki
the decorations on old Dresden china powde
boxes.
Still another has a tea-white background
that tender and adorable shade of plnk-whlti
only made by pouring milk Into the mos
perfect of teas.
This was scattered with loose bouquets o
Cosmos flowers ; which mysterious blossoms
In velvet , and rich wallflower tints , gar
landed the low , square , tca-whlto gauz
waist.
FEATURES OK THE COSTUMES.
The short sleeves of this bodice , than whlcl
nothing seemed more elaborate or more be
coming , wore of accordcon plaited gauze
mounted over satin In full puffs , and whici
had the downward and outward droop tha
now distinguishes all sleeves.
Uelow the left bust line was a striking an
somber note In all this truly gaiety ; thre
largo Cosmos blossoms In sooty-black satin
trailing heavily from the colored corsng
bouquet.
They were there , however , with motive In
tent. Ulack , It seems , In bold , brief louche
In unexpected quarters , Is a winter punctua
tlon for some of fashion's most delicate com
positions.
In the same way , through the most modla
illustrations , wo are made to see that th
slight drooping of a narrow belt In front wl
Increase an effect of waist sllghtness. .
bodice , too , with a round , half-high neck , I
a kindly aid to too generous proportions. ,
slight figure , on the contrary , a girl dlvlnel
tall , and , of course , divinely fair , may wea
her corsage literally tumbling from thl
shoulders.
TO SUIT ALL STYLES.
Bones , If sufric'cnUy well hung and or
dowcd with that youthfulness beloved t
painters , can never offend ; but flesh la
thing to bo handled with discretion , and
round , baby bodice la a young und bocomln
bridging ot some of these dilllcultlcs.
To bo worn with the brocade skirts di
scribed , as well as those of quite as splendl
Ilk , como diaphanous textiles of every cole
and description , to bo fashioned Into tli
upper garment ,
The stiff rustling silk or satin of tt
pompadour petticoat never repeats Itself I
the bodice , this being made exclusively I
chiffon , moussellno de sole , crepe , and eve
tulle , either plain. Jeweled or spanglei
Chiffon waists for plain skirts , however , ai
sometimes brocaded quite as gorgeously t
some of the now silks. Indeed , chiffons wei
never seen before In such vast profusion an
variety , but a proper foundation Is certalnl
ono of the most Important points In the
making up. Distinct contrasts In cole
between the cloudllke drapers and slllc
satin foundations , are much In favor , ar
wonderful opaline effects , as eluslvo as mooi
beams themselves , are made by mountlt
ono color over another to the number i
throe and four , and even six , v
KOH OLDER WOMEN.
But along with these dashing novelU
n brocade and gauze , there ore entire ere :
Ing gowns In velvet and satin , and o
caslonally ono of silk , suoh as was spoken
In our mother's day as "standing alone. "
The skirts of many of these are mai
after the French circular model"which hani
Very full about the feet.
A few have a suspicion of a train. Othe
a0 only slightly longer , and all are withe
the wire braid of the Paquln street garmon
A pleasing feature of numbers of the
Bkirts Is their absolute plainness , but t !
Illustrations give some of the latest Parish
hints- for effective trimming and draping ,
DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The flrst gown of the series is entire
ot palo pink velvet with a tabller drapery
white lace and decorations of real swallow
The bodice , whose square , untrlmmed nei
line Is the quintessence of simplicity , buttoi
at the left side , and the lace drapery
finished at the back with long strings th
tie at the waist In a smart , bunching bow.
An enchanting confection In changeab
Rr.cen and white satin , and which Is shov
In the foreground cf the group drawing , h
skirt and bodlco decorations of butter-color
lace and a blouse vest ol llzard-grei
chiffon. A narrow bolt of emerald pass
monterle finishes thn waist , and here , as
the other two models , the bulging effect
the short , puffed sleeves Is made by cuttli
the material straight across the top and pi
tine the curved and chief fullness at t
lidos.
The costume next Mils beautiful skirt , wl
Its graduating Van Dyke points , Is of hea
whlto silk with black tulle , Jet and lace trli
mines.
The fourth and last confection , however
with Its little nlr of piquant dignity , the me
fetching of them all. Pale maize satin ,
thick as the proverbial board , amethyst vi
vet. white Isce and white chiffon , compos
Ihe divine- original of this model.
Together with the other toilets expressed ,
may be accepted by tall , slight figures as i
falllbly becoming , and as affording the b (
possible ideas as to what French women
the haute , monde arc now wearing.
KIIOITINO roil blUniOS ,
Liberal Comiiilnilnniil'nld by Art lain to The
Whii lluy Their Continues Kto.
A young Missouri girl who went to N
fork recently to corn her living has work
out a new vocation that Is at once orlgli
ind profitable. Possessing artistic taste a
tn excellent sense ot selection she Is e
ployed' by artists to do the shopping
thtlr studios. She has been much a me
Now York wleldor * of the brush and once
Week goes around to the. studios seeing wl
tha owners ncwd In the way of drapery
background for some new picture.
To such largo studios us New Yo-k boa
especially where classes are. held and inn
models engaged , there Is always a dem.i
for tome modern or antiqueparapherao
( or the poseur. It the subject la ono
antiquity , then aho goes to the llbrarl
reads up nil the Information necessary to
equip her for shopping.
Frequently , when a large piece of work. Is
under consideration , the artist pays her for
her tlmo , instead of a commission. This
was recently done when a big hotel had Us
ceilings palntol alter Fl ran Ino do Igns. This
artist secured her to get pictures with de
scriptions ot costumes of that era. For
this lie paid car fare , for her luncheon and
$3 a day. She filled this contract In the
most helpful and conscientious manner 'and
Is confidently looking forward to several such
orders for the winter from artist decorators.
It Is by no means easy work. Br.iln and
fingers both play a steady part , for she
fashions the garments utter buying the ma
terial , and sometimes the veriest trifle takes
up hours of her time.
As for instances. A noted artist wanted a
Gainsborough hat. The order sounded sim
ple. So she went-directly to a Fifth avenue
designer of frames and Itift the order , stipu
lating that it should be of the genuine type ,
not the latter day nineteenth century edi
tion. The frame came In a most up-to-date
shapa as seen In the Gaiety Girl. Back It
went and designer and shopperwent out and
took a sketch of the duchess of Devonshire's
headgear. Again and ngaln have they tried
for the peculiar set of the hat , but It seems
os much of a lost , art as the old blue of the
Italian masters.
She thinks her profession. In time- will be
equally as remunerative as the ordinary
shopping on commission or house decorating.
She Intends to establish a regular office and
send out circulars suggesting that artists
throughout the country wrlto to her for
materials. She goes through a course ol
reading and study each day ot mythology
and history of all nations , so her selections
may be absolutely accurate.
HOW TO TALK TO aiEfc.
A Socliilly .Siicci3fiil Wnmiin Ailvlsei Cer
tain i nnvorimtlniml Mothnilii.
There ts a Turkish legend that gives a good
ndex to this part cf social ethics.
A mendicant was dying He called his sere
o his bedside and said : "My boy , you musl
go through life trusting to yourself now. 1
an leave you no money but much wisdom
ml this mirror. Carry It always with the
mck to your own face , presenting the mlr-
ored surface to the world. "
Years passed on and the boy mendlcanl
lec.ime a rich merchant. Gold had poureil
ulo his coffers as he walked through the
vorld , his shining shield reflecting all he
net.
Contentment came with thpse riches , ther
curiosity. Why , ho thought , am I BO loved'
What do I that men should cell me fair anil
agreeable ? What occult magnetism do 1
losscsa to so easily compel this flow o :
Ichos ? And ho turned the mirror for tin
first time toward his own face. He was
charmed. It gave .bad : his features bcautillet
and glorified. Ho saw himself In Its sliltu
merlng surface a creature fair to behold
agreeable td bd with a laughing , enchanting
ilcture ! Lost In rapture and love for him
lelt lie paused. In his way thereafter gazlnf
nlo the exquisite- depths of his father's gift
Gold there was none left. People' * passei
ilm by unsmiling. Ho wondered , when no
absorbed with self , why this condition was
and ho died , pcor and forgotten.
The legend Is to society as the laws o
the Pundit , to the Brahmins. It explains all
A SWALLOW GOWN.
Go through life" reflecting people , not as thi
ore , but as they wish to bo , and the go <
things ot the world are yours.
Why present to any man an ugly Ima :
of himself when his faults can be Ignon
and his virtues pleasingly presented wltho
seeming ostentation or flattery ?
Some vorltlst may exclaim that such i
attitude Is not a fait ; one but now pro' '
his theory. There need be no "toadying
no cringing , no "playing for favors , " b
the brighter side of each man's life suggest' '
to him by Conversation.
Another claim to remembrance Is this :
Said a society woman known for her ta <
and quantity of friends , whom I queried
to her social tactics , "I have a plan posslb
not original , but certainly successful ot t
norlng the especially pleasant thing a mi
necessarily knows nbgut himself. Each o
has a particular accomplishment that tli
world Invariably 'tacks' to his name. He
pleased , of course , to possess this one accoi
pllshment , but rest assured he secretly wo
dcrs If it can bo the sum total of his i
traction. So I try to discover some oth
quality. I find If he has the virtue of drc :
ing well then I also discover some It
menscly , clever remark ot his. I make
point of mentioning It to him.
"If. on the other hand , he Is clever , th
I particularly admire a certain suit of clothier
or the fashion In his ties. If he dances we
then I find that ho has made some good bu
iw ness deals. Bet perfectly sure , my dear ,
e < will think you vastly more appreciative tli
any other woman , and the undefined gra
a tuclo he feels at the bright side ot hlms
ni you have reflected back , brings you ma
a delightful attention. " And aho conoludi
o "this Is not hypocrisy in me , nor si
vanity In him. I love to be treated after tt
ng manner myself , and my gratitude is equal
the man's. "
a A third point is to remember , If posslb
what a man talked most Interestingly
earnestly to you about the last tline you in
It shows Interest In a most nubile wi
ny Naturally 1hls is no easy task If the Upi
nd between visits are long and you meet a. goot
IU number of men. But If It is possible * to i
of member the result will prove' Its wlsdo
ofM. "A * you onca said , " hai a penetrating ctm :
for the listener , bo It man or woman. It la
uselcis to deny that for human nature the
first person singular Is the most agreeable
conjugation In grammar. And this brings
up a final bit of advice which Isno of the
well known arts of conversation be a patient
sympathetic llstennx. For It Is essentially
true that ho who proves you a clever talker
by his attention , will impress you more nltU
his cleverness than had he talked.
SKUVINOVINI : .
KtlqnnUo to Iic < Obiervpil by the Ilo tcsa
Whn I'IIIIMVlno. .
In the matter ot serving wines alo"e lies
a good deal ot the success or failure of the
tout ensemble of an elegant dinner. Tim
hostess who elects to pour out wines at her
table should nt least take pains to have
them cater to the best taste , otherwise they
mar instead of enhancing the repast.
The fashionable authority In this country
on banqueting , Mr. Louis Sherry , was way
laid the other day upon his return from
Europe and asked for his opinion with regard
to the serving of wines. . . "The tendency. "
ho said , "Is to servo few and better wines ,
and Americans have BO decided a liking for
champagne that they drink It at all times ,
for luncheon , dinner , supper , when not ? But
wine connoisseurs have critical palates for
several other wines.
"Those who were serving but two varieties
should begin with a good , Thino { wine as
Chablls , and follow it wlth''champagnc. Vera
a dinner ot several courses the order might
well be as follows : With the oysters , Chab
lls ; soup , sherry ; fish , hock ; reeves , Bor
deaux ; entrees , champagne' ' ; game , Burgundy ;
with tlit : sweets , Madeira ; and after the
coffee , liqueurs ; the latter are generally
brandy and _ at least on 9 other , as char
treuse or beriedlctlne.
Colored glasses and these of fantastic
shapes are no longer used on elegant tables ,
1'ure white , and a perfectly plain style , Is
preferred by many people. At most , thcrt
Is a dellcato tracery of gold about the rim. .
and the shape preferred resembles halt ar
eggshell , set with the rounding end upon B
slender stem. This , in regulation goblcl
size , is placed for water ; a somewhat lowci
and more rounding one for Burgundy ; a
taller glass than that for Burgundy and
Ehnped precisely like the goblet for water
but a third smaller is for champagne ,
Sherry Is served In a glass of the same shape ;
but much smaller , and yet a little target
than the smallest ot all glasses , those fo :
the liqueurs. The liqueur glasses aie nol
tot upon the table , but are passed after the
coffee Is served with the decanters ; eacl
guest helping himself from the decanter hi
'
prefers. It Is oftcncs't of the shape ot i
clay plpo bowl , and but two or three tlmei
larger than a thlmb'.e.
Where champagne is served and no othei
wine , a small plain tumbler Is often used
ono with straight sloping sides , without stem
It is no longer thought to ba "good form'
to load a table with glasses. Three 01
tour are put on at first , und others an
ordered as they are wanted.
Wine glassed , by th : > way , should be llftei
by the stem daintily , with the lingers , wher
there Is a stem , and not grasped about tin
bowl or clutched with the list as man )
people , who should know batter , still do.
Whltolnes are all preferred cold. Ret
wines are served ot the temperature of thi
room. Some connoisseurs elect to have
them stand on a mantle above a wood fin
to Infusci Into them Just the right spirit
Bordeaux ( moro commonly called claret ) Is
Iced by some people , to the horror of cpl
cures.
F'no ' wines , and others not under coniider
otlon , are to be sipped , not gulped , In ordei
that their aroma and flavor may be enjoyed
The reason for the Intro'liictlon ol the wlilti
glass exclusively Is that the color of th
wlno may be enjoyed , as it can not be Ii
tinted vessels.
Old Burgundy mid Bordeaux form more o :
less sediment. If shukcn hi thslr bottle :
th'a ' Imparts a harsh taste to the wliie. Ti
prevent this the boltles'that' to bs serve ,
cliould bo stood up for the twenty-four houn
previous ; when the time comes for servini
they may bo Inclined upon the side In i
basket for the purpose , and paured by i
servant , who handles the basket as If I
were made of upun glass. Or they may b
decanted In clean decan'.eic , slowly Illllni
the bottle and pouring off the clear wine
leaving the sediment nnd a little wine li
Lho bo I tic. Set a candle light behind thi
bottle wh&n decanting , and stop pourlni
when the filmy threads or webs appear litho
the wine.
A NKKVKTONIf.
An Hour's Solltudo Karlt Day Ilclpi n Ilu ]
Woiimn.
To bo alone for a few hours every da ;
should be a fixed habit In a woman's life
Thcra Is n. deal of benefit to bo acquired
from a short season ot solitude , snatchei
amid the toil and struggle of dally existence
It Is due one's selfhood , and once bcliliu
closed doors , the family , friends and servant :
should be educated to respect the temporarj
seclusion.
Make yourself physically comfortable
Stretch yourrelf upon your Couch , let tli !
tired nerves down from their usual , tension
It is well to sleep a little , but do not make at
effort for repose , just let go , and fall t <
idle musing , child fashion. It' you will
When perfect rest ensues In the peace am
stillness , call yourrelf to order in the soli
tude ot your own chamber , through thl :
nacrcd hour you may review yourself , youi
character , your environment , your efforli
and results without fear ot criticism othei
than your own. Do tills healthily and hap
plly. not morbidly. Review your Immedluti
past and present as you would reckon you
accounts up to date , then muster your force ;
as a general would his army. In this wa ;
you will bo enabled to steady your pur
poses and think out the difficult paths tha
lead to the results you so much deslro ti
accomplish.
It ts In this precious time1 alone that i
woman may get Individuality , originality
strength , decision , directness , stunning quail
ties out In the maelstrom of the world life
for stir , self-consciousness and the Influanc
of others often deflect a woman from he
purpo&o unless she has acquired stendfastnes
of resolve as a principle.
Even In material matters ! If puzzled oven
n bit of work , put It aside for the hour o
solitude , then It will probably open up It
own method of completion to you , havln
your undivided attention. The proper use o
solltuda teaches n woman Independence ; sh
has pleasure and profit within herself , an
she no longer relies on others * to provld
tbeso for her.
An hour of waiting when a train has bee
missed or a friend Is late should bo ac
ceptcd , not as a tlmo of enforced Idlenea
and trnpattenco , but as. an opportunity I
which to think ana to plan for future ac
compllshment.
Ono little woman confided to mo bow sh
taught herself the usefulness of solitude.
She was not stronc , either In nerve o
body , and hours of quiet , free from all dU
traction of sight or eouud were required t
keep her ven physically comfortable. Sh
flrst sought solitude as an animal when I
goes off alone to die , and she ) lugged all he
pains and woes along with her. in he
fatlgup every evil thing she could think c
would array Itself against her like a deflnlt
foe , until it came to her that ehcr would pi
aside everything painful , and shut It all 01
with sweet remembrance by trying to reallz
all the pleasant plans and people and thine
she 1ms ever known.
The presence In her mind of past haj
plueas sweetened her heart and her natui
flowered like a rose garden , her health In-
proved , and she said smilingly "th.it she ha
swept out ot the shadow Into the sunshlr
through the blessing ot solitude. "
Cure of tha llnmlt.
"Every time you wash your bands prci
the cuticle loftly back from the nails wll
the towel. This gives the desired length ar
prevents hang nails. "
The statement was made by a manlcui
specialist , as I sat in bar artistic roomi , i
rather reclined on the low cushioned. s at
amid a bewllaarlnfe vista ot Japanese lantern
Immboo screens , gorgeous snow cases nnd
well concealed appointments.
This pressing down ot the cuticle li es
sential for well shaped nallu. It the operation
produces any riRgedness a keen pair of scis
sors should clip It oft. The scissors , the mani
curist Insists , must be of careful selection.
The pair that does service for clipping thread
or cloth will ruin the skin. The points should
> o very fine to Insert tinder this hem of the
nail.
nail.As cold weather approaches women try to
devise means for preventing hands and lips
'rom ' chapping. An excellent remedy to pre
vent chapping Is cold cream , The manicurist
old me that It nlJ-o whitens the skin more
ban any preparation. It lias taken the place
of the old-tlmo remedy mutton suet. It
should be well rubbed Into the skin and
gloves preferably -while slipped on. The
lalms of-tho gloves should bo gilt In several
ilaces to allow' the ? air and prevent cramp
of the muscles.iAnd'tho ' linger tips clipped off.
Vaseline shoud ) ntvor bo allowed to touch
ho hands. Itturps the skin yellow and
caves a stain on , the nails that Is hard to
clear away.
In winter coIcYVStcr should bo used spar-
ngly. Its actlMi roughens the skin unpleas
antly. Tepid water with a very few drops of
Household ammonia and a good lather of
castllo soap or bo MX soap Is advisable. If
ho hands are | ncllned to redness the trouble
le-3 In the way of circulation , and slight
gymnastics will VeFlevo It.
To remove sfnlns from the skin or nails
use a few drops < bf oxalic acid In water , mnl-
rig the solution H-xtremely mild , This should
> o rubbed under ; iud about the nalts with a
tiny ash stick , } vhluh comes for the purpose
at the cost of C cents.
Muy women aro- worried by a constant
.endency to perspire freely in the palms ,
which ruins their gloves. This is an ex
pensive distemper , for I know women who
spoil new gloves simply in ne wearing. For
his USD magnesia. Get It in square blocks
and rub It thoroughly Into the skin before
FOR HOME KECEPTIONS.
pulling on the glove. Rigorously adhered tc
the effect Is entirely desirable.
There nre small diseases of the nails ols
to be considered.
Ono ot ridges. These form lengthwise o
the nail , quite spoiling the shapa. This I
due to weakness and can be "amateurly
treated by constant use of the nail pollshe
dipped In pink enamel powdqr , for the caus
Is duo to weakness and this method strength
ens.
Another troublousan , aggravating epllttln
of the nail. Just , to run It rapidly throng
the hair or overa , pieceof , cloth tends t
take thq. qntlre edse. off dow.n , tc > the level c
, t | e , finger. Fcj- this there isa lonleiiUiat I
put up by manicurists-but. they again advc
cate the friction of , puamols skin as the mo ;
helpful application , ,
riIAMt > . ( : rVNU ! DlSXlilt URN U.S.
i It.
How t Sprvo"'u ' ' 'Tiutturul ' I'cmt the I.IIH
ThiirluliiV In November.
'
"Oh ! for friend to sugges
menus "within ruy means for a dainty , nppc
tizing Thanksgiving dinner , " sighs th
economical llttld housewife , who Is obliged t
live on a llmltq.il Allowance ; perhaps cannc
even afford a , mald-of-all work. Beside
cooking the meals- she must see that the
are served In a tnptln : : manner so tha
tired , over-wori < e'r ( ( James will thorough !
enjoy his well seasoned steak and potatoc
and not remark < .how much better they ar
to bo had at a chop house or restaurant.
Hero then are 'some simple , Inexpenslv
menus for just sijch a busy woman whlcl
aio calculated to produce good cheer and
grateful spirit on this near approaching da ;
of thanks. If one wishes togo "from oyster
'to walnuts" on a , Thanksgiving day feast
they can do It with comparatively small ex
pense.
Little neck clams being cheaper thai
oysters , will do for the first course , servci
in the half shell. Then a cream tomut
soup Is good and economical.
For the third course have roast turkey
small white" onions boiled and served wit !
drawn butter , mashed potatoes and bake
sweet ones and the Inevitable cranberr
sauce or jelly. For relishes , homo mad
pickles and salted peanuts Instead of ai
monds. being much less expensive and con
bldered by some quite as good , celery an
olives , celery salad with mayonnaise , or
plain lettuce salad with French dressing wll
do. Next comes a homo made mince pie
nuts , raisins , fruit nnd coffee.
Here Is still another simple menu for sue
nn occasion.
Oysters on the half shell. Cream of celor
seup. Iloast turkey with chestnut stufiln *
Potatoes mashed and formed In cones , the
brushed over with beaten egg and placed I
the oven to brown. Ilolltxi cauliflower wit
cream sauce and celery. French canne
string beans put In the ice chest until the
have become very cold , then drained an
tossed in French dressing , makes a dellcat
and delicious salad. .
A boiled home made plum pudding wit
wlno sauce , a pumpkin pie , nuts , raisins an
coffo3 Is a pleasant finish to this mode :
isast.
Or hero Is still another , quite dlfferer
from the foregoing menus.
Creamed turkey soup. Dolled turkey wit
i < costufflliiK > and oyster sauce , Hlc'e '
potatoes. Scalloped tomatoes. Bollc
onions and cranberry. Celery , pickles an
salted almonds.
A bouquet salad can follow , made of hat
boiled eggs , lettuce , only the tender whll
leaves , a few nasturtium blossoms Vin
mayonnaise dressing. For a dess'ert a Dutc
apple pudding , lemon pie , nuts , ralelns , fru
and coffee.
Or this ;
A minced clam or oyster soup. Ilea
tarkcy. Dolled ham. Stuffed tomatoe
Rico croquettes. Cranberry. Celery salai
Crackers and cheese. Nuts , raisins , it
cream and coffee.
Here is still another.
Llttlo neck clams on the half shell. Coi
sornme. A pair tame ducks roasted. Maslu
and browned. , potato. Drussel sprout
Dolled onions.Cranberry. , . Celery , pickle
salted peanuts , olives. Water cress ai
lettuce salad. French dressing. Cracke :
and chees6. Mlnco pie. Lemon jelly. Nut
raisins , fruit and coffee ,
Or If one wished n very Inexpensive dl :
ner :
Bean soup as a first course ! Is about i
cheap a soup a > can bo made. A bam boi
boueat at a pork store where cold bold
ham is sold by the slice can be had for
few pennies. ' Often they will glv * the
away for nothing. A pint of whits beai
soaked over night and boiled slowly f
hours the next day with the ham boi
makes a very Usty soup. Iloast turk
plain boiled pbUtons , boiled onions sorvi
with melted butUr , cranberry , ctlery , plckU
celery salad , poor'man's rlcet pudding wl
ratslni and servrd with bollrd custard , fnil
ind coffer , creum chccso &nil crackers wit
omo sort of prcsorvp.
TAl KSTJir XVKXVINU IN AMKIttOA.
ItH roMlkllltle * nil n No r nml Tuylng In
< tti lrr for Wumnii.
Eighteen months Is the ago ot America'
tapestry Industry. The venture has sue
ceoded as well , If nol better , than could ti
bopcd. Several commissions havet been ac
ctptably filled , and the business , though ye
small , Is growing strong and healthy.
The artisans nre Imported from France
Tliero are only six looms at the little ne\
mlustry , and ono woman who works thcr
'rom Inclination more than necessity is th
ovely young daughter ot the master work
nan , Mile. Foussardler Is both deaf nm
lumb , but weaves w.th deft , artistic finger
that astonishes olJcr artUts.
The question of this tapestry weaving a
n new and paying vocation for women 1
now being looked Into. A very wealth ;
woman from St. Louis , deeply Interested li
nil such advancements , has been Inquiring o
.he promoter of the Induitry In New Yorl
"J.ty. The master workman says ho Is ver ;
filling to try any of the women who wan
to learn. They stall be put at equal rate ;
with the men who ore apprentices , worklnj
the same number ot hours.
In Franco women have never been cm
> Ioyed except as seamstresses to mend th
ipllts caused by changing colors. I askei
ilm why this woa so. "I couldn't deflnltel ;
say. " ho answered. "Men have been tin
workers at the looms by tradition In France
The weavers at Gobelin and Aubusscn havi
wen born on the looms , so to speak. Thel
fathers were weavers before them , and tin
art Is handed down as a legacy. Wlij
womeji khould not fill the position I see ni
reason. . Their sense of selection In cole ,
is usually , , , finer nnd more dlacrlmlnatlni
than a man's. Hut they should begin qirlti
nrly In life , I think , 10 years being abou
Ight.
"It takes fully four years to servo one'i
ipprcntlccshlp , and few women who are pas
20 want to take the time to start. "
Should the plan ot this rich woman sue
ceed the result would , be admirable. He
scheme Is this : To take overworked womei
rom crowded factories and tenement room !
vhere they live underfed and scantily clothed
and place them tn clean , llttlo houses abou
a factory , giving them good work and gocx
'ood.
Still , the Industry Is too now In Amcrlci
o provide lor any corps of workers , bu
ho owners are going to show the million
alres here that It w.ll be possible to tcl
hem as flue bits of tapestry aa are now be
ng made in France.
As ito the personnel of the factory , k lin :
only six looms and they are of the lov
weave. The French ate traditionary it
heir methods of working and have progrese <
Ittle from the manner of the older day
ot weaving. H Is an Interesting fact tha
he loom Mile. Foussardler weaves at I :
almost Identical with the one used by Pene
ape. M. F6ussardler : lives there with hi
'amlly , and an Interesting addition an
six little boys from the Catholic Orphai
asylum , who have been apprenticed througl
th ? Interest of Mr. John D. Crimmlns. Thesi
children are already making salable dial
covers. The boys got $2 a week for thi
( Ir.t year , and are now getting $3. Eacl
year It will be raised , a promise of J8 i
week being made for the fourth year.
The Frenchmen are delighted with the cf
feet of the Hronx rlvr water In dyeing. 1
U wHl known that IhU Is an essential ele
ment and that the superiority of the dye
of the nobclln In ascribed chiefly to th
properties of the water from "La Blevre.1
In the suburb cf St. Marcel , where a famll1
ot the name ot Gobelin established dy'
works in the fifteenth century. Consider
therefore , what It means for America whei
the master workman pronounces the llron :
water superior to tlio Blevre , and , in turn
his dyes to the Gobelins.
Another department open for abler womei
Is the preparing of the cartoon. This 1
now being done la n Fifth avenue studio b ;
meu.
CONTAGION TI1UOUC.II HAIIt HKUSIIKH
Hanger So Common Hint Women Itui
Fcrlmm liUlin nf Infection.
A hair brush can communicate diphtheria
measles , chlckenpox , scarlet fever , emnllpoj
yclloWfever' and cholera. It can also com
munlcate tcald head , tetter and many ma
tolpglcal troubles , and under conditions o
abrasion and contact convey blood polsonltifi
This Is startling , but a truth that should b
romcmb5reJ by those careless In nllowin
the use of their brush and comb , and nls
by frequenters of hair dressing establish
ments.
Brush and comb matter , even with It
component part of oil which would tend t
preserve It , Is putrcsclble nnd fermentable
Every one Is aware of this theory , but the ,
do not seem alive to the other Incontrovertl
ble fact that both these toilet articles ar
deadly disease carriers. One brushing o
the head of a diseased person , or one wh
has been In a contagious atmosphere , wll
transmit as many as 1,000 germs to th
brush from the hair ; borne of those In tun
to be conveyed to a second and th rd persoi
and EO on , until the disease Is broadcast.
The exterior of the human head , as al
know , is a flue field for bacterial life , and ,
person who touches or breathes the air o
contagion would nnd , If she had her hai
chemically analyzed , that It was alive will
germs as much to as her clothes. This i
especially dangerous In woman for rcasoi
of ther : very long hair. She disinfect
her garments , but not her head. How cai
the woman who goes to have her hair tham
poocd or built up know but what the vcr ;
brush that Is used In the work may hav
seen service on the head of a woman wh
was nursing a sick child or Just come Iron
the hospital ? There Is no way to prov
that the brush has been anlseptlzcd , whlcl
is probably never the case.
A physician who has carefully examlnei
brush and comb matter gives these sta
tUt.'cs ' regarding It :
Water 10.
Oil 20
Nitrogenous matter 40.
Hydrocarbus ( other thnn oil ) 21.
Tuorganlc matter , dust , dirt E.
All this matter is fine food for the llttl
animal. , technically termed bacteria and ba
cllll , and consequently they thrive there.
Many physicians who are given to labora
tory work and know the vast amount o
contagious matter carried about In brushc
wonder why health authorities who are do
Ing such good work In closing the chinks am
apertures through which contagion enter
Ignore this deadly method of transmission
Take the large shops with their one set o
toilet articles , whcro 200 or 200 women ar
range their hair , as a place equally as dan
gorou ? as the hair dressing tresorts. Thes
women .UlPUld be compelled to use an Indl
vldual brush. It Is an unwritten law o
etiquette , of course , to use only one's ow
toilet articles In polite1 society , but > al
humanity are not recisterod In this booli
and while contagion from this source Is ac
knowledged by all physicians , a law alioul
bo enforced.
A woman should constantly look to It tha
these two articles should be caretull
cleansed and washed with a mild solution c
carbolic acid. She never knows what germ
that were floating through the air ( and t
believe tbo medical scientists , no oltllud
Is too high or depth too low for their floal
Ing existence ) may have alighted on her bai
and been whisked eft Into the hairs of tli
brush. If she Is cleanly Rho has her hai
regularly shampooed , but 'her brmh an
comb should be equal In Importance for clear
llness. In this Is her salvation.
I'nahlon Noti.i.
The ugly poke bonnet Is occasionally see
In Paris.
Large smoked pearl buttons ore seen c
tailor-made jackets.
Velvets hand embroidered with beads ai
used for mantles.
Plaid velvet and spangled satin ribbons ai
favorite trimmings for dresses.
Handsome bullion embroidered In Renal ;
sanco patterns laid over velvet forms tl
crown of many fancy bonnets.
The most popular fur cape is from twenl
to twenty-tour Inches deep and Is ot cloi
fur , like Persian lamb , seal or otter.
Feather boas are worn shorter , only read
Ing to the wal.it , and the latest novelty
attached to a collar of ostrich tips , graduate
In alze and turning away from the neck.
The new handkerchiefs are unusually smal
to admit ot their being tucked Into the wait
coat pocket , peeping out from which they loc
very jaunty.
The tendency of tbo newest bodlcei Is I
suppress all seams except those on tl
ihoulier and thoie under the arm. Tl
MMB. ft YALE'S
CELEBRATED
Received the Highest Honors from
the World's Fair.
ENDORSED BY GOXGRESS ,
THE SECRET OF HER BEAUTY.
Mme. M. Yule's Excelsior Complexion nml Health Remedies Imvo made lior
bpnutUHl tlioy will certainly do the MIIUO for you. Mine. Ynlo's ' olmrinlnjr por-
sonallty and rcnmrknblo bounty 1ms novel- boon equalled. She wus not born beau
tiful. Her bounty luus been enltivalod by tbo xanio remedies whiiili HIO ! Ima placed
on tlio market for the bonoflt of all women. They can bo dopondcd otr.
Ladies using those remedies having the privilege of writing to Mine. Yalo.
blio gives all correspondence her noraonal attention and answora all questions on
the Hubjcct of beauty.
Mme. Yale's ' Guide to Health and Beauty.
.PRICE LIST :
Mmr. Ynlo'it IMIr Tonic ,
Turni Kt-ny hair Imrk to Its own natural color
without ilkp. The tirst nml only remedy In
the history of chemistry known In do thl * .
Stops. Imlr fnlllnir In from 24 hours to one
week : crtutrs n luxuilant growth , cures rt.in-
uniff nml all * rnlp trouble * . 1'rlce. $1 | > < > r bottle
tle ; 6 for | 5. What Is mote illRKUntlliK tlinn
to see either n latly'a or n Brntloin.in'B luilr
full of llttlo scales gr&dually fulling on tlielr
shoulders ?
.Mini1. Vilr'H I'rultrura.
Mme. Ynle'n wonderful cure' for all kinds of
fenmle weakness. J lce , tl per Imttle ; C for
J5. Thousand * of testlmonlalson ( llo nnd re
ceived e\ery dny.
Mine. Yii ' \ iiinnil < 'r < - > tin ,
llennei coirse pores , keeps the kln smooth
and lovely. Price. 51.
Minn. Y I'-'iiMt it tomt.
Guaranteed to remove -wrinkles and every tnic
of age. Price , $1.00 and 13.
illiif. Vulii'n.Mnlrt Hint Uarl Kxtrnctnr.
nemoves and destroys forever moles and warts.
Price. W.
Minn Van * ' * I.nilmi mill Ointment ,
Pimples , Illack Heads nnd Skin Diseases cured
with Mine. Yale's Special Motion No. 1 nnd
Special Ointment No. 2. Guaranteed. I'rlce , tl
each.
MiniYule's Hunt Food.
Guaranteed to develop a beautiful bust nnd
neck : Rives flrmnesa to the llrsh and creates
a natural condition of plumpnes * . Price , JI.CO
and $3.
" mi * , YM'n'ft ' Klixlr of Hrnut.r.
Caltlvates natural rosy checks , a wonderful
akin tonic. Price , 11 per bottle.
OMAHA DRUG-GISTS.
Full line carried by Kuhn & Co. , 15th anil UoinjUs slrcots , Merchant ft V'.cltcrs , 10th
nnd Howard. Kinslrr Drug Co. , Kith ami Fiirn.imV. . .f. lluu'lics , 84th nnd Fnrimm. And
by nil Ni braska druggists. At wholesale by E. 1C. Uruoe Jb Go. unU Utchardson Drug Com
pany , Omalm.
LINCOLN DRUGGISTS.
Harloy's Drug Store , corner O and llth streets , carry a full lino.
COUNCIL BLUFFS DRUGGISTS.
George S. Davis , and all drufjfjiqts throughout Iowa.
Druggists everywhere sell Mme. M. Yalo'a Remedies. If druggists do not
happen to have them in stock when culled for , they will order for you without
extra charge. Mail orders bent to Mmo. Yale's headquarters receive prompt at
tention. All corrot.ondoneo ] answered personally.
YALE TEMPLE OF BEAUTY , / ( } ( ! ,
gown Is then fitted by 'n > slight fullness at
the belt and collar in .close blouse effects.
A new material called Llsreln Is made
Into jackets and mantles. It Is a fine imi
tation of sealskin , rain proof , and considered
more healthful to wear on account of its
light and porous properties.
Now and very effecflvjq black chiffon trim
mings have a handsome applique edging of
old English lace of a deep cream tint , with
dots of the same color brightening the dense
black surface above thid bordering.
Embroidered flowers in black and white ,
the silk embroidery almost concealing the
ground beneath it , are used. This black
and white work is most effectively used as
a Jacket over Nile green , cerise or haw
thorn pink corsages.
The fullness of the skirt now In fashion
Is massed In the center of the back , Elas
tics hold the godct pleats in place about halt
way down the back of the skirt. From the
knees all skirts flare to the width of four
nnd a half or ( Ivo or six yards.
Embroidered chiffons with raised silk
flowers are draped over satin evening frocks
with charming effect. Chiffon , this soft ma
terial , comes in great variety , plain , shot ,
covered with dainty blossoms and striped
with silver and gold tinsel threads.
Handkerchiefs continue the beautiful line ,
and hold their own -well. There are fancy
handkerchiefs galore , but a square ot delicate
snowy linen , hemstitched and slightly fra
grant , Is never rivaled in the esteem of a
woman of refinement.
Salammbo Is a new very dellcato shade of
raspberry pink that Is combined with Rus
sian-green velours , velvet , satin for evening
wear , and likewise Marie Antoinette brocades
showing a beautiful shaded floral design upon
a superb satin ground that Is shot with those
two colors.
A new weave of linen it Is very soft and
flexible Is made for undergarments. It Is
like silk in texture , and comes of the palest ,
prettiest coloring. Fine sprigged lawns , are
also used for the same purpose , and , trimmed
with Valenciennes lace , are marvels of
beauty.
TVnilnlnn Note * .
A new dainty for afternoon tea Is a maca
roon sandwich. It Is made with two maca
roons , between which is placed a very thin
slice of sage cheese.
Miss Edith Rockefeller has a fancy for
pianos. There are five in her home , 4 West
Fifty-fourth street , New York , She likes
them In wood to match her boudoir , or In
rosewood like the drawing room. She plays
beautifully , and Is rich enough to Indulge the
fancy to her heart's desire.
Dr. Mary V. Mitchell Green , late of the
Woman's college , Baltimore , has been ap
pointed director of the Somervlllo gymnasium
at Swarthmore college. She will have as her
assistant Marian Hunter of the Boston Train
ing School for Swedish system.
A wife In Australia died just In time the
other day , If she had only known It. Her
husband , maintaining that his marriage vows
were only "till death do us part , " refused to
pay her funeral expenses. The court , It Is
pleasant to record , promptly convinced him
ot his error , deciding that a husband's du
ties only cease when the undertaker's bills
are paid.
Mrs. C. Oliver Iselln , who until recently
was the most celebrated society girl of h-sr
state , has long had a fondness for candle
sticks. She has every conceivable sort , and
her .tables and mantels are covered with
them. Thcr arc jeweled sticks and just tbo
plain , pretty ones that come In to many dif
ferent kinds of china nowadays. Her collec
tion would stock a bric-a-brac ahop nicely
with that variety of ornament.
Lady Mary Grosvcoor , the fiancee of Prince
Adolphus ot Teck , Is the daughter of the duke
of Westminster , one ot the richest men In
England. The Tecks nro not rich' , and the
Westminster money will doubtless prove very
acceptable , Lady Mary Is not pretty , but her
coloring Is dainty nnd her eyes are attractive.
She li said to be clever and accomplished.
Mrs. Jes le Denton Fremont hos beei o'ected
president of a new chapter of the Daughter *
of the American Revolution formed In Los
Angelea , Gal. The fourteen charter members
of the chapter represent many famous colonial
patriot ! . At the opening seiilon lea was
brewed In camp kettles that are heirlooms In
the Darsey family , and were used by Wash
ington and Lafayette In the revolutionary
war.
war.Miss Florence N'lghtlnagle nt the age of
74 Is enjoying excellent health. She Is a rich
woman , having , besides some private means ,
the $250,000 publicly subscribed for her by
the English peopl * at the close of tbt Crimean
Mme , Ytilo'n l.ii I'roclclu
Mine. Ynlc'B wonderful La froclcta la known
to bo tlic only BUIO euro for frrcktes In fiom
3 dnys to ono week after Its mat ni > plcntlon !
every freckle will dlinppour ntul the tuniptexlon
become as clear an crjstul. Trice , (1 pur bottle.
Mm. Viiu'iKjIIPPII < ii | > .
A luxury tiukra tlic l < In of fnlr woraon
bonutlful to look upon. Ynlc Hnnp In per *
fi'Ctly purn nnd sweet. Over 1,00.00) cnkoi
cohl ( luriiiktin - past year. Women know a
KOCH ] tiling Yule Soup. All drUKKlata , at SOo
a cake.
.11 Inn , Ynlr'rt Complexion Illnlcli.
Guaranteed to remove sallnwnoiw , moth patches
nml all skin lilcmlshes. Ulvcs n natuinl com
plexion of mnrvelcii beauty. 1'rlce , $1 per
bottle ; t : for 3 bottles.
Mini ) . Yalii'K Itluoil Tonic.
Purifies the blood , acts on the llvr , kidneys
nnd l.ultJs tip the whole system. 1'rlco tl per
bottle ; 6 for JS.
Mmr. Vulci'n llycliiKli nnd ICyolinnr ( irmrer.
MRkcs Ihe lashes prow thick arid long , the cjr -
brovvit hixuilant nutl nhnpely. htrenpthena imil
beautifies' the cv.es. Guaranteed to be perfect
nnd pure. ' Trice . .1.00.
Mint * . lulii'M llunil IVliitfltlrr.
Mnkei tha lianJa BO ft , 111/ white anil beautiful.
Trice , tl.
Mini * . Yiiln'h "CJrcnt "cottl"
Mmc. Ynle'd wonderful remedy for removing
anil destroying the prowth of mipcttluous Imlr ,
taken but live minutes to use ; docs not hurt ,
In Halo qr even make the skin red : remove !
every trace In one application. Trice J3.
This extia- Constipation.
ordinary lie- tzfncfs ,
luvenator lathe
Falling Ken-
the .
mont.
Ration 8 , Ncrv-
wondorritl
oustTritohlnR
discovery of
of the
oyei
the a o , . Jt and other
has boon on-
.
jia.ts.
rlorsed by the
leadlnfffclun. Strengthens ,
tlflo men of lnvlinmtG
Europe and and tones tha
America. entire eye em
Hudyan In Hudian cures
Deb illty.
purely vege
table , Nervousness ,
-J'.mlisJoiiB ,
tludyan stops -
onddevotofts
Premalureness and refitoKs
of the < lis- weak .
organs.
charge in n } ' * lna In the
back. Ionia
quickly. Over 2,000 private Indorsements.
Tmnaturcness means Impotency In the first
stage. It la n symptom of seminal wcakhos * nnd
carienness. It can be cured In 20 dnys by th
u e of 1'udyun.
The new discovery was made by th * sprclnllits
of < h old famous Hudson Medical Institute. It
Is the sUongrst vltallzer made. It Is very power
ful , but ImroilCRs. Bold for tl 09 a packaee. or
B'X packnueu for 15.03. 'plain sealed boxes ) .
Written KUurnntee Klven for a cure. If you buy
Rlx boxea nnd nre not entirely ruled , nix more
will he itent to you free of nil rlmrse. Bend for
circulars and testimonials. Addrcps ,
HUDSON MEDICAL INST TUTE
Junction Stocjkton Mudrot , nnd
Streets , Sau Francisco , CuL
SEARLES &
8EARLES
Trcalmcntby Mail , Consultation Fro
Catarrh , all discuses of the nose ,
Throat. ChestStomachLiver,1Moc J
Shin and Klduoy discuses , Lost
Manhood and all Private Dis
eases of Men ,
Call on or aUdro&i ,
Dr. Searlcs & Searlcs ,
war. Quite recently she confided to a friend
her Intention to settle the money ai a truit ,
the Interest to be devoted to nursing wounded
soldiers , should her country ever again ba
engaged In H war with a European power.
That Rpnlal woman and brilliant author
nnd eOltor. Miss Susan Hayes Ward , prefer *
the wane of the day for her literary work ,
Kroiu 8 to H her muse U apt to lie kindest.
"I never feel , " the 1s quoted us eaylng , "aa
( bough IhliiKi bad really begun until tha
lights are well going nnd dinner li over.
Then inspiration comes ID me , It ever , and t
can accomplish far mere work and of far
better quality than 1 can In the stupid ,
presale daylight. "