18 THE OlVfATIA PATJjY BEE ; SUNDAY , NOVEMBER 4 , 1804. Woman's * Domain. r Ir "I'd llko to speak to Mljs Edith private , " I * laid a woman TV ho had teen a servant In Mlw Edith's family , 1mt who now look lodge ra. "MUs Edith , " she began , after some pre liminary remarks , "I'm ' told that Mr. rtlploy cornea hero consld'able. ' And , Miss Edith , you know what 1'vo always thought of your family , and that any ono oC you young ladles ii"I'd ( for the best In ( he lam ) , and I'm ' * not sarln * but what Mr. Illpley la a worthy f- young man ; but I think I owe It to you , fi JIlss Edith , to tell you that ho gets tcrrlblo ff. i affectionate Belle. ' " letters from & young lady named "I'vo no rlfc-ht to Interfere with his let- f. f.f ten , " said Hdlth , but. her volco trembled. f "And how do you know anything about It , ii Ann ? Vou wouldn't read his letters , " "No , Indeed , Miss Edith ; far be It from mo to read anybody's letters when they're In thawhole shoot and done up proper In en velopes ; but -when a man tears up his let ters and scatters them round bis room , I have the right , as nobody can deny , to piece thorn together and make what tuny be out or them ; and I hold that It's my duty for your family's sake , and for your sake , Mlsa Edith. " A , few days Inter Ann paid another visit , and this time she announced , "Miss Edith , my mind's at rest , ana I hope yours will bo , too. I pieced together n. letter from his mother last night , and 1 found out that Bella la hla sister. " Woman's struggle for hygienic and un- artlstlo dross reform , which , trespasses well over the border lines of masculine attire , Is a hard one , and very slow ot results. But she can take courage from the fact that hero and there an earnest advocate of her cause crops up who la courageous enough to walk the streets In short skirts and leg gings , ride horseback In a bloomer costume , and never mind the gibes which are thrown at her from the passers-by. Mlsa McCormlck , a successful young artist of Pacific Grove , Cal , , Is a recent example of this kind of fortitude. The short skirt is a matter oC convenience to her , and she has adopted It for all outdoor occasions. For fear of shockingIhe villagers by her sudden change In dress , she began by making lier skirts just below her shoo tops , and shortening them a half Inch every day , until now they barely reach the knco. Her cos- tumca are made by a. San Francisco tailor , and nro said to bo very clilo and becoming. Ono la of gray corduroy with a skirt to the knc-03 , and corduroy leggings fastened all the -way up with leather straps and buckles. The coat la made long , and worn over a waist coat of the , same , double-breasted. A dainty shirt and an Ascot tlo glvo It the fin ishing touch. A more dressy suit is of white corduroy. For long tramps , when she la on sketching tours , she has a suit of English serge with russet leggings , and a leather bolt. Miss McCormlck la at present engaged In painting horses In the corral just outside of the hotel grounds o Del Slonto. A -writer In the Medical Magazine , who has Trltncssed the Berlin method of disinfecting "a room , describes th- > cleansing of an apart ment In which a child had died of diphtheria : "Four men were engaged. After everything that could be subjected to steam without detriment had been remo > ed to the disin fecting station , all the things were removed from the walls , and the men began nibbing these with bread. Ordinary German loaves are used , forty-eight hours old. The loaves are cut Into substantial chunks about six Inches square , the back of each piece , con sisting oC the crust , thus allowing of a good purchase. The walls are systematically at tacked with strokes from above downward , and there can bo no question aa to Its effi cacy In cleaning them , nor does the opera tion take as long as one would Imagine. The crumbs are swept up and burned. After this the wala.a.rfl thoroughly sprinkled with a C per cent carbolic acid solution. The floor Is washed with , a 2 per cent carbolic acid solution , and all the polished wood work and ornaments as well. " Mrs. Eliza. Archard Connor read a paper on "Reincarnation" before the usual meeting of the Brooklyn Philosophical society. For the benefit t > f such who may not know. It Is added that this loclety exists to gain knowledge - edge am ) compare Ideas by means of lec tures and discussions. It has the reputation of being merciless In criticism , and it did not hello this at Its lait meeting. A less jelt-contalncd woman than Mrs. Connor would have succumbed under the scathing comment which followed her paper , some of them set forth In that spirit of cleverness which "gulllotlnea earnest ness with a mot and urns the ashen of a , life In a phrase. " Mrs. Connor was fully equal tp her critics , however , and It la only Just to the society to say that her routing of them was as cordially enjoyed as Us "holiday" of the previous half hour , when she was be ng "butchered , " Mrs. tlorer evidently endorses Marlon liar- land's view of the "tyrant potato. " Says the former ; "Life Is too short to be spent n digesting potatoes. 1 never eat them ! n ny form. You might ns well put pieces of mica Into your stomach as nil It with Saratoga chips , " It Is undoubtedly true that In many households nowadays tha potato habit is much lessened. Tune was when potatoes fried for breakfast , baked for lunch- con and mashed or plain boiled for dinner -was the logical course of table events In almost every well regulated family. The breakfast cereal has practically banished It from the first meal ot the day. It Is often absent from the luncheon board , and It Is really only at dinner that It Is apt to be In perennial evidence. A dish of boiled rice or sampor baked hominy will be found an excellent substitute for the Iterated Irish tuber , which , while not perhaps guiltof all tlio Indictments ngalnil It , might well ba relegated to an occasional rather than an everlasting appearance. A delicious compote of the hard green cooking pears can ba produced by stewing them very slowly In nn earthenware vessel. Peal evenly , leaving the stem. To two quarts 'of pears add four medium sized quinces , peeled , cored and quartered. Let them ttew. with frequent bastings. In n ilrup made from one and a , halt cups of and two cups ot boiling water. ' I'll KNCll lion tin ) I'nrlsloiincs Are Drcsulnj ; Tln-lr llcadi uml Anna. PAIIIS. Oct. 20. It will continue the foihlon this winter to liavo the sleeves very largo and the hair combed down , over the ears. Other details moro or less Important pale before these two. If the statement seems hyperbolic the render can verify It by observing a woman at any Juncture whera her dress Is of Im portance. Always her hand Involuntarily seeks the part of It with which fashion Is for the moment preoccupied , to see that It Is enough , distended or collapsed , and at present \rhon she dresses , or Is about la enter a room , or sees somebody coiningon whom he wants to make an Impression , oho pulls out her sleeve tops and pata her hair n llltlo further down over her ears , just na a man whan about to encounter a good looking woman begins to curl his mustache. The same mustache always remains to tirlrl. but taihlon II lea with Iti collapses ami dis tensions. from one part of feminine dress to mother , end the preoccupation of the wearer follows. It Is a sure sign to point out the mode. The modeli themuh s beer out the obser vation. Width Is the Idea , width every. where except at waUt and wrhli , which by contrast look very delicate , and all fictitious height banished from lint ami hair , which rls > scarcely higher than the top of the head. It la tli us by grafting and pruning that a pronounced sljrle Is arrived m. This pro. nounc 4 utyle of today Is ilecldwlly novel ad la cnarmlns. of course. Kach new ex pression ot dreet art puahra Interest In the la.it cue to limbo , for nicnXInil la it curious animal and must be nmuie4 wh n he s s himself as ho might be and not n h4 Is. IJITEST FASHION FOrt TUB HAIR. Lealhrrlf has rxpUlued Ic- a iha ar- ungstnent of j. coittur for th * day ana one for the evening , according to the mode that will rule for this winter , as follows : The head , It must be observed , tins grown small In effect between the enormous sleeves- and the width of the aklrt , and for this reason there In a space of longitude on each side , and fashion has taken possession of It for Ihe hair. The hair Is waved all round Its borders , particularly round the back and sides , and l rolled off the forehead , rolled drooping over the ears and rolled up from the back of tha neck , all very loose goufle , ns the content says , which means swollen , and all drawn together low at the back , on n level with the top of the ears , and the enda there twisted Into a cord that Is knotted with a loop drawn through , such as we have ull learned to make. The knot Is very small and counts for little In the effect ; fashion asks only the billowy roll round the face and neck , and cares not how It spends Itself. This Is the coiffure for daytime , that for the evening Is somewhat higher. The hair Is rolled up near the crown ol the head and there twisted Into a coque ; then the ends are divided Into two strands , each twisted separately and the two twisted together to form a tope , which Is carried round the coqus to the top , and there the ends are curled and frizzed out to nil the outline between the co < iue and the top of the head , 1'earlc may be twisted Into the rope and a pompon be placed at one side. There Is a rumor that floners will be worn , but It la too early yet to tell ; my Idea la that they will not succeed It tried. It Is thought not too eccentric to part an evening coiffure on one side It this sty.e becomes the face. The present fashion Is particularly well planned for people -\vith \ llttlo hair , since It makes length of minor Importance. The effect of thickness may lie Increased by part ing the hair off round the edge and roughing It up from behind with the comb. It is made to stay out very ROufle with shell side comba , three or four being used when neces sary. For combs ami large hairpins shell Is the preferred material. There Is no longer any talk of bangs- the flow of hair over the oars seeming to take their place In softening the contour ot the'face , but If the face will ndt support a clear forehead some light frizzes may fall at each side , but leaving the space open In the middle. SLEEVE KUBTLETIES. If It Is not modest to show the ears anymore moro there 3s no longer a good figure with out double width across the shoulders. Shorn ot a proper sleeve one la a mere picked chicken , thin and hateful to the eyes , and a proper sleeve , it Is that which In a side vlow blots \he waist completely out and has obliged the fashion artists to give up drawing the profile. The sleeve Is the key of the gown and the test of the dressmaker. It has nn nlr of simplicity In the best specimens , ' buV defy yourself of this sim plicity. It Is a deception. It Is not cut up Into Intricate parts , It Is only * a Bigot , but It Is a slgot shaped with Infinite refine ment of UUP. It Is nn etruscan vase besldo an ornate ( lower modeled pot ; one could say of It "Oh , attic shape' ' fair attitude ! " and not stretch verity. It Issues horizontally from the armhole In guages or plaits accord ing to the quality of the material , and at a sufficient distance out It curves over and takes Its subtle cours : converging downward Ilka an Inverted vase to a wrist of the most delicate possible , even running out to a point on the hand. No Inch of Its surface but Is studied lorm. Sometimes It Is broken Into two parts at the elbow , though that Is another sleeve and another matter , but the general effect of outline , remains the same. Into such perishable form do we nowadays , put our fair attitudes ! They have even to bo shaken up before company arrives , llko old Mrs , What's-1 ler-Namo In Dickens. To trim this marvellous creation la to manifestly gild the Illy and the most per fect specimens ore unadorned. With fair logic on the other hand it Is being made of material different from the bodice , throwIng - Ing It out Into greater relief. Here must be observed an essential point In design. It doesn't do not to make the sleeve material enter into the bodice In some slight form , as otherwise a cut-off look Is the result , but a relation must be established that deceives the eye Into believing that these velvet sleeves have Issued perhaps from some velvet undergarment or other , To give this effect the bodlco must be slashed over velvet , or appllqued upon velvet , or In some other way pretend to ba laid upon the sleeve material. The Idea It simple enough and quite true to art. It Is the Idea inspiring some , of the new models. DESCRIPTION OP NEW GOWNS. The materials are dark reddish mauve silk barred with pale mauve , velvet of the same color and a very open passementerie made of cord and chenille. The sleeves arc tcivet , the bodice a > blouse slightly bouf fant In front , with two vertical bands of passementerie set In as insertions over vel vet laid on the .lining underneath and form ing a transparency. The aklrt has passe menterie ovpr velvet laid down each stdo tha front , each side tha back breadth , and round the fool at a little distance from Ihe edge. The velvet Is laid on the skirt to avoid cutting , A passementerie ornament nils each corner of the trimming at Ihe bottom , and the neckband and belt are of velvet. These nro rich , materials ; the same effect will be produced In wool creponwith velvet ribbons In place ot the passementerie and bows shaped triangularly In the angles of the skirt. To some gowns -width Is added In tha form of ruffles , "ralna" of passementerie or jabots that tall from the top ot the shoulder down , following tha under arm seam to the belt and framing the waist on each side. An afternoon hVufe reception gown showing this. Idea , Is of green-blue silk , with velvet of the same color and Iridescent orna ments. The skirt , bodlco front and sleeves are of the silk spangled over with Iri descent sequins embroidered on by hand. The bodice and open side fronts are ot vel vet , the whole forming a blouse front open over the silk. A velvet bow on each shoulder rests out upon the sleeve , and from It falls a rain of Iridescent beads to the belt. On tha left sldo ot the skirt Is an Insert of black net sewn with .Iridescent beads laid over velvet , that Is very wide at top , cover ing the hip , and narrows down to a point near the foot. Its edge la cut In an Irregu lar pattern and. Is appllqued down with a corj. ADA CONE. 3IAVMJ bUM'AIt rAKTIUS. lloiv to Glvn Tin-in In Approved } "nltlon Without < Joli > fir Into Ilia Snow Hoglans. To glvo a sugar party quite up to date It Is not necessary to charter a car and steam away for Vermont hills , aa the Seward Webbs do at the first flurry of the white snow flakes , nor Is It at all requisite that snow or a farm house enter Into the sweet calculations at all , for sugar parties of the most enjoyable kind are being given right In the city every evening now since the chilly weather began. And lest you may not have heard o [ them , here Is a descrip tion of the way they are conducted. The first requisite Is the maple sugar. Perhaps way up la Vermont or way ' "down" lu Maine there la a. dear old grandma or a thoughtful country aunt who each autumn tends the brown solidity down to you for the first bucknbeat cakes , Or , perhaps , you know a good , reliable fanner who -will spare you twenty or to pounds ot It. II will arrlvo In a deep tin like a milk pan and will lift out as If It were made o [ wood- clear cut and even In color , but much heavier than wood. The first using of Ihe sugar should be- for a Vermont sugar party. For this you may crack tip a. quantity of the sugar , not very much , for It Increases wonderfully as It melta , The young people who are to enjoy the > treat have been , of course , previously In vited , and when you break the sugar they are- sitting around the dining table playing country games and -waiting to be called Into the- kttcheiiwhere the feast Is spread. Pat the sugar In a shallow pan , In which there Ii not nulte enough water to cover Ihe bottom of the pan , and add a lump of but ter In the proportion ot a butternut lo a heaping cup of the broken sugar , Now , let the sugar melt and gradually be gin to bubble over the fire , but be careful that It ilnos not burn , A double boiler la an excellent thing for cooking tugar of oil kinds. AS it prevent ! sticking. When the sugar ( us boiled n few -minutes take a teaspoon ol It and drop It Into a slms of Ice water. II It itaya In a , ini&i nnd even retains a lit tle thapo It 1 ready ( o l eaten. Now routes ( lie beauty pf the feast The "Improved" up to date part , as It vert , Take from the * kitchen shelves as many pw tins as there arc young people to sit around the kitchen table. Fill the tins full of cracked Ice , made very fine1 , nnd place n silver fork at the side of each dish ol Ice. At the signal the young p opl < j come troopIng - Ing In. They teat themselves , all wonder ing at the dishes of Ice , and , ot course , they cannot Imagine what Is to come next. Can II be oysters , or what ? Then wllh a big spoon the sugar (3 ( dropped In little amber heaps In the middle of each dish of pulver ized Ice , and a minute Inter all the sugar forks are winding and twisting the uigar lumps Into cool , sweet mouthtuls. Th.s can be repeated as often as the taste of the company will permit , nnd If all do not de clare It Ihe Ideal sugar boiling , then the latest Invention of the pleasure lovjng young people of New York amounts to nothing at all. . , imuintr of niiKss , Hvory Woman Cnii Krgiilnto Itor VnrlotiH O'iMtmiirit Alwnyxto lu ! Currrctly Altlroil. "What are you going to wear ? " Oh , that perplexing query that treads on the heels of every Invitation ! "Whatever you wear you'll wish you hadn't , " said n gay little cosmopolitan just home from a long visit In" the 'smart circles of London society. In attsweryo this same question a few days ago. Then she went on to say : "Anywhere else bul In this country an Invitation for a particular time In the day , breakfast , luncheon , dinner or boll , or whatever it may be , makes He rlguer a cer tain prescribed toilet. But here ! It you dress even for a dinner that most formal of all social functions the chances are that you will be the only woman Iti a decollelte frock. And as for a theater party , the safest way is to go In opera rig , and then put on a mackintosh and galoshes , so that you can keep both extremes of the dress of the other women in countenance ! " But this pert young thing exaggerates , o course. It's true as preaching that our social life In the largo cities Is as yet BO unstable that there are no fixed formulas rigorously en forced with regard to dress for special occa sions. And Flora McPllmsy ? She 1& bidden to a "breakfast , " shall we ray ? Or a luncheon ? So far as dress Is concerned , they nro Iden tical. Or to a weddlpg ? Ditto as to dress. And this should bo a handsome high- necked and sleeved gown , with cither a bouquet or a hat of equally smart appear ance , and gloves. Note bcne. Flora keeps that fetching head gear on from the time she leaves her mirror till she gets back to It again. If the eating part of the function is done sitting at table she takes off her gloves after she sits down. Otherwise she keeps them oti all the time , The dress may be tight , It better be of silk or have enough about It to givea very tlres.sy appearance , and lace- and all other rich stuffs ate au fait so long as they are adaptable to the high bodice. The fashion able sleeve now ends oftenest at the elbow , but unless one's forearm Is very good look- ins ungloved ( It's bad form to take off the hand of the glove only and tuck It In the wrist , better have a handsome long sleeve. Puckered c hi ( Ton extending to a point on the wrist Is very becoming , and not always In the soup , as a fall of lace has a penchant for being. If Flora Is asked to assist the hostess at an afternoon reception she can wear n gown halt low In the neck , and It may be as partyfled In tint and texture as she pleases , and she must dress her hnlr nnttlly and tuck an ornament of ribbon or of gold or shell therein. But unless she " " "assists" she must wear a bonnet or hat , and a calling toilet , less dressy than for a luncheon , preferably a stylish cloth gown with effective trimming and fault less fit and finish. A lady should not wear a wrap into a drawing room on any other occasion than when making a short call , never at an affair for which cards have been s nt out. The girls Mho assist , the Ijosteia about the tea tablu should not wear gloves unless they live beyond the reach of manicures , All the wumen guests wear tholr gloves -with as much precision as their bonnets. For a dinner Flora should assume a low- necked gown and a pretty une. If It Is a foimal function she will take her gloves off at the table. If not she will leavq them In the- dressing room. There are -women still who weir bonnets or hats at dinners , but their names are writ large in the debit ledger of polite society. For auy sort of an evening party In a private house the rule is invariably a parly gown nnd uncovered head , and gloves. Flora , uhen In doubt ns towhat the others are going to do , will nevertheless lierselt dress correctly If she is wise. There Is always a happy medium between tbo ex tremes of right and wrong : dro&s , but draw the line between whlto chiffon and a pretty pale silk. If afraid of over-dressing. Do not wear headgear In the evening. Never ? Well , hardly ever. There Is , to be sure , the theater party. One woman does not wish to bo the only one with uncovered head in a party. It woulil bo in better taste to honor one's host or hostess at a theater party by dressing ap propriately. This would mean swallow tall coats for the men ; and In this country , for the women , gowns , lho effect of which Is light and ornamental , but little if at all low at the neck , and no head covering , and pretty coiffures. It there Is a dinner party llrai the guests will of course wear evening dr s at least to the above extent , and go In carriages , Where the party meets at tha theater or some other rendezvous , and Flora Is at a loss to know what the other girls are going to wear , since she can not depend upon them doing the fight thing , and does not wish to render herself conspicuous by dress ing aa Cynlous says undressing moro than they do , she can do this always with safety. That Is In American cities. I. c. . she can wear a handsome dark skirt ot silk or satin or wool , and a pale tinted Bilk bodice , because the latter looks bo much moro dressy than any dark colored one. This "body" may have any of the furbelows of the day. as a chiffon "stock" with ro settes or wing bows , and lace collarette or revera , etc. Then she. will wear light , per fectly fresh gloves , and it. she does not go In a carriage , and does not like to risk the quite uncovered head In' the theater or to wear a head scarf or chlffoif In'the street cars , she may wear one of the Jaunty little apologies for an opera bonnet that are now in vogue. Let It be tiny ; becoming , and little more than a head dress. This will look enough > Jllke a bonnet to pass muster If all the others wear them , and will not bo abtrusltuly a chapeau If none of the others do more than dress their lialr modlshly. One thing more. The American woman Is forever finding herself in a hotel. If she eats in the public dining room It is In the best taste for her to wear a simple street dress , and. preferably her hat. A woman of fashion and refinement docs not dress for the opera , and then ga with uncovered head and shoulders through the public corridors ot a hotel , nor sit where any one with the price of a dinner in his pocket may sit at tha next table staring at her conspicuous- ness. If she Is going out In the evening and dresses for the occasion before dinner she should dine In a private room , If she be In full evening toilet. J\c\r Design for T u Cloth. Any new fancy that adds beauty or sug gests a thought In the belongings of that cosy function "afternoon tea. " Is always welcomed , The design of the llttlo clopk. with the hand pointing to the consecrated hour In the tiny dial Is quite a new Idea for the delicate embroidery In the corner of the. tea-cloth. Th design may ba elabo rated by using the figure f > In large bold form with a spray of torgelmnots en twined In one corner. The- next shows the letter 0 ; the third corner has the little clock ; the fourth closes the circle with a largo T the whole - " ' ; reading"Five o'clock tea. " The spray of forget-me-nots It grace fully arranged through each of the letters. The tiny clock la , however , tb > chief point and may bo used with a vine-work or clus ters oC flowers as Ibe other corner pieces. I'Uce the face of tba clock In tha corner , so that the figure XII is &et to read up ward * . The frame l worked In white silk , i cloa long and short stitch ( Kensington ) to glvo * . solid form to the octagons. The Inner circle which outlines the dial Is also doneIn vrhlte. The short cross lines and the dial fig ures are In light yellow as are alao the hour and minute hands. The spray ot forget-me- nets has the leaves done very delicately in shades of gray-green , while the flowers nro stars ot light blue with the suggestion of yellow In the center. The story Is simply but plainly toldi The hour for "high tea" well marked , while the drooping flowers say quite- clearly , though silently , "forget-me- not. " AUTISTIC LUNCHEON EFFECTS. A new Idea for serving salad , chicken , fisher or potato conies frpm Colorado , where under the sunlit sk\ps \ everything grows deep- colored nnd luifurfant. The largo green cu cumber is the Jiasls , Cut the ctfds off and take .1 slice lengthwise from ono side until the meat or heart is reached. With a sharp- pointed knife remove this carefully nod ail the llttlo green hoa { with the chopped salad. Decorate each end with a bit of small crisp lettuce leaf. I'lace the whole In the- center of some circling , loaves of lettuce , and serve In Individual salad plates a silver fork laid In each , Tomatoes are emptied and filled with salad In the i-amo fashion , and , alter nated with tlie , cucumbers , the effect Is quite pretty. The deep-curfed kale Is much used as. a basis for low qott r decorations. The deep strung Involutions ! , nt closely and perfectly around pansles'feranlums , chrysanthemums. Arranged In a silverbowl , , or a shallow glass dish , with an tmdcrbed ot soft moss , quite wet , the leaves , \\i ] [ keep green and fresli for hours. QUEST-HOOK COVER. The friendly tentlmcnt that gave rlso to the custom of a handsome register book in which each visitor places his or her name with the date , and the addition of some pleasant record has met with such response , that In almost every town nnd country homo one finds In the library or morning-room the guest-book with Its story of hospitality and happy times With much use the vol ume gets rubbed and worn. And some kind of a protecting cover Is almost a necessity. It may bo ot plush , of satin , ecru or whlto linen , with nn Interlining ot ono layer of flannel and a lining proper of soft silk. Cut It a little deeper than the volume and fully two Inches wider on each side so that when the book is closed the cover overlaps. The edges are sieatly overhanded together , a small gold or silk cord added around the edge aa a finish If the cover la of plusher or s.itln , I ho lettering or design should beef of gold thread , but If of linen gold colored silk Is used , and the design -worked In out line. In the linen cover the silk lining Is put In with a long stitch for easy removal when laundered. The words "Guest nook" In largo grfld outline Is frequently put across the center of the cover. A pretty and ap propriate couplet to follow can bo found fern n smaller lettering below. "Our devious lives do pass some waves of lime In company " "Fan-well goes out sighing- , welcome ever smiles. " "Good folks nre scarce , Take care of me. " One may Hnd many a quaint unused line for their own particular book. If It Is borne In mind. Fnshloimble V 'omi > n Utilize Tlinlr Illg Slcavo mid triuti Ciillur When Traveling. NEW VOUK , Nov. 1. ( Special. ) Emma Abbott , during her stage career , employed a prominent Jeweler to invent cunning con cealments for carrying about her splendid collection of precious stones. The singer's favorite mode of transporting them was In her panlers. Hip puffs were fashionable then and little chamois pockets were sewed In side for holding a great number of valuable ornaments. The- jeweler never told ot the hiding places of the jewels while panlers were In vogue , and Mrs. Abbott declared she felt safer with her Jewelled panlers on than If she -had a body guard about her. Now-a-days the crush collar so universally popular Is employed very frequently aa a temporary traveling safe. Ita loose folds usually made ofvelvet provide ninny small pockets which , when lined with chamois skin , serves the purpose excellently. The average woman carries her treasures In a small leather. bag slipped Inside her cor- dut , but this Is out ot the question with women who own from $50,000 to $500,000 worth oC jewels , Not only would the load be cumbersome , biit Injurious. Any continued pressure of clothes far bone against a woman's bosom Is hurtful , bit ( the burden of gold and stones would undoubtedly create cancer. A physician whom I' queried on the subject said ho had Instituted a crusade against the habit , A woman's breast , he remarked , was one of the mjst sensitive spots to cancerous cereus growth , therefore the slightest pressure there should be avoided. A well known actress who owna a few dozens of dlainpnda has had several little bags made that arp , fastened with safety pins alone the lines , of her stocking supporters. These supporters Consist of four strong silk elastic straps depending from a small satin belt which slm fastens securely about her waist , giving It additional safety by doubly pinning II to her corsets. So down the straps which are kept taut by the stockings are fastened these llttlo jewel cases. She says they do not Interfere at all with her walking ; but as she Is a poor pedestrlenne It would scarcely do to take her word on It. The heavy leather belt recently adopted has proved a boon to the summer woman tourist , for several of these belts were sent to jewelers to have neglulous leather pockets fltted Into the Inside. "But , possibly , " said a Jeweler , who makes of these devices a specialty , "the chamois skin belt worn under the petticoat and over the corsets Is thS'jJayorlte mode of conceal ment , The gird Id Is preferably fashioned at a Jeweler's , It doea not fit at the waist line proper , for then It would Interfere with the curve , but clings to Ihe hips. It has the same compartment method , Is caught to the cor sets with light steel pins , and firmly fastened In the back with these pins. None of the jewels are placed In the extreme back , for sitting erect against a chair might prove un comfortable. " "Large sleeves , " said another Jeweler on Uroadway , "have proved a boon In this case to many diamond owners. We have had a number of these leg-o'-mutton sleeves belong ing to heavy cloth gowns sent us to have chamois cloth fitted In them. Here safety Is absolute , for the pieces are distributed so that the weight will not pull down the cloth. Tha chamois Is put next to the akin as an Inner lining , but cut equally as full as the tleeve. Each pocket Is arranged so that the owner can get at them without ripping. I suppose we have fixed a dozen after this man ner for European travelers. " All these designs are adopted for the woman out-of-door * . For the woman Indoors there Is usually the Iron safe for the pos sessor of rare- and numerous Jewels , All the women of the Vanderbllt , Aster anil Gould families have such deposits and guests who visit them are requested to put their Jewels In the same deposit. Women owning a fair sprinkling- good stones usually have a small combination safe to place on their mantels or In their ward * robes. This safe Is screwed down from the Inside to the woodwork , where It Is placed , and a thief needs to know the combination to be able to get at the screws. Illch women who go to Newport , Londoner or Parla for a season seldom carry their JeweU with them. They take them to either ot the two best known Jewelers here who have branch houses In all prominent cities and order .them shipped to the branch of the house In tha place they are to visit. Identi fication papers , are fixed , signatures are sent and the person to"whom the papers are made out enters her application with all due refer ences to the branch firm and obtains her jewels. This saves all trouble and puts her to llttlo expense. _ 'ES. I (5 - Itlch p.nd Tooniionin Dltliri Suitable for feitat * planar 1'artleu. Oyster crabs are distinctly the newest thing In the way of autumn appetizers. Private families 3iavo not patronized this dlab extensively -is yet , for tbti especial variety ot moiyiak-ls not widely known ns a delicacy , Tw < ? yean ago chefs and epi cures discovered th.e little- animal and now that which wajjfarowo away has become the corner stone la the building of a dinner. An oyster ort.U1 is found clinging to the oyater Inside Ihtshell ; formerly c-ynler openers thr w ths little red object- Into boxes to ba carted away as refuse. The best variety now corao * from Dalllmoro , but It takes not only nn appreciative- palate , but an appreciative purse to enjoy them , com ing aa they do as high ns Jl for six dojen or $2.60 n quart. Ami Ihts nt the market. Consequently | 2 Is thought a reasonable price for one small portion nt the restaurant where ono IB dining out. A la. Newbers la the favorite war to pre pare them , The recipe for this dish given by excellent chefs Is after this fashion : Drop them Into a hot saucepan with butter , adding a glass of cream , stir for five mln- utps , then remove nt the first Intimation of boiling , Prepare a liaison of the yolk of two eggs with n spoonful ot raw cream. Just before serving pour this Into a. Mucepan stirring over n. slow flro until It thickens ; I It la allowed to touch the boiling point It wll be llko scrambled eggs. Season with salt pepper nnd llttlo nutmeg. These crabs also make a delightful luncheon dish , stirred in a hot saucepan wllh n llttlo butter ami cream nnd served on buttered toast. They are also made up Into patties In the sumo manner , for entrees. Chef Ilnnhoper of Dolmonlco'a says that ho usually pours n little Madeira wina over his crabs a la New-berg anil finds that It materially benefits the flavor. This same chef also has n preparation of these crabs he terms a la Salamander. His recipe Is to take some nicely washed , me dium sized and deep oyster shells , setting them on a straight baking sheet , Drain the oyster crabs , .season them with salt , black pepper and Ted pepper and fill the large shells , fltrew over them bread crumbs nml grated cheese , sprinkle 'with butter nnd brown In a quick oven , serving the shells ns teen as done. No sauce la used on the crabs. OYSTER RELISHES. Some new ways of preparing oysters arc always Interesting nnd one way that I learned lately should be given the benefit of n trial. The dish Is called ' 'oysters a In St. Jnmcs. " Take some chive , shlrvll , n lltllo aslraKon and n few capers , put Into n mor tar and thoroughly peslle. Add one-quarter pound of butter : press the whole ) through n slevo and mix with bread crumbs. Open the shells , leaving the oyster In & deep shell and mask each ono with this preparation. Hake them in a hot oven for five minutes and servo nt oticc. The chef who originated this tasteful con coction also makes the best of stuffed oys ters. Ills method Is to chop up some lobster , a little onion , add cream sauce and stir until thick. Ha puts this to cool while he cuts the hard bit out of the oyster and then fills the void with the prepared stuffing. The oysters are then breaded nnd fried a la pom padour. This , he considers , nn excellent 'taster' to precede a Thanksgiving dinner. Delmonlco makes a skewer of oysters that Is fine. The oysters nro blanched nnd a skewer run through rncli , pinning as It does a thin sllco of fnt bacon , cut longer than the oyster ; some butler Is sprinkled over nnd they arc bolleiT over a quick fire nnd served on a hot dish with melted butter poured over. TUB THANKSGIVING TURKEY. And now for the pride of the Thanksgiving dinner the turkey. Of which one might use the sentence given lo wine "lhat which excuses " a poor dinner and glorifies a good one. Every cook , oven a passable one. knows how to cook a turkey but tome of the re cipes for stuffing that I learned by a tour of chefs recently , are new and appetizing. A noted and patriotic hotel chef Intends to flll his Thanksgiving birds with stuffing a la Amerlcatnc. This is composed of bread crumbs , soaked for half an hour , squeezed dry and mixed with sliced raw apples , a Uttlo parsley , thyme nnd sage. A little chopped sausage will be added : One of the Vanderbllts will have their turkeys prepared after the fashion adopted In a leading French restaurant. The stuffing Is made up of bread crumto , pate dc fole gras and truffles , highly seasoned After the turkey has begun to roast , a pint of dry champagne Is poured very slowly over It. It Is a delicacy to be desired only by those whose palates require rich food , but there is no questioning its being delightful both In flavor and taste. Chef Ranhofer always wraps his turkeys In buttered brown paper anil generally lines the brazlere In which It Is cooked with slices of fnt pork. He alto garnishes many of his turkeys with black olives. At this same restaurant will be served an epicure's dish of turkey wings. These latter are scalded , cleared of all pin feathers , the fleshy part boned , then soaked. A saucepan Is lined with fat pork and the wings are moistened with mirepolx stock. They are cooked an hour , then drained and set on a dish. The stock is strained through a nap kin , and used to moisten a mixture of skinned chestnuts and chopped celery , cooking over n slow fire until both chestnuts and celery crush under the least pressure. A little espagnol sauce poured over adds to the flavor and the whole Is poured over the wings when ready. CLAIRE CLAXTON. Till' S.1IAUT .SKIKT. Tlio Now rinrlnc Jiipo Worn by blo Womuii. NEW YORK , Nov. 1. ( Special. ) The Paqulu Is the very latest model for wide flare skirts , and though It owes Its title to the Parisian house of that name , here Is the true story of its origin. At a shop lately opened the wide jupe Is seen In Its most ideal perfection. Indeed , a whole room in this splendid shop Is given up to the showing off of skirts alone ; and as the gorgeous parade passes by , an extra dashing- cut , and ultra severe finish nt once distinguished those of Paquln make. Besides this cut , which after all Is the thing , the only additional ornamentation al lowed a Paquln skirt. Is a rich silk lining tinted like a pallid cloud , or as gay as the gayest flower. It may be fashioned of velvet moire , crepe moire which Is a new stuff with a mossy bengallne sort of surface silk or crepon , but It never owns the least trim ming ; but If of cloth , the seams are strap ped , or the three front cores perforated to show a ( lower tinted lining. It begins with the lining- , which is In eight gores , and measures for tall well-made figures seven yards and a half around. Eighteen yards of silk are required for this lining , which is made up separately from the outside , and fltted as carefully over the- hips as If It i\ere a bodice. It Is crinolined or hair clothed , only to the knee In front , where It Is finished with a fil d' acier , a fiat hair- Inch wire braid , so flexible It bends In any way with the least movement. This wire holds it out at the hem , no trace of which Is ever seen on the outside of the skirt. All this completed the skirt proper , either eighteen yards of silk or five yards of fifty- four-Inch cloth , Is llkcu-lsa made throughout and carefully plastered over the lining , to which only the narrow turn-over hem Is caught. In some- cases two or three small pleats are arranged at the back , but In others the fullness Is formed entirely by the flare of the gores , which go up narrow and flit at the waltt. The waist finishing la the usual cord and bias facing. One ot the most enchanting of the skirts made after this model was a black crepon a grandes vezues. The heavy silk lining- , with Its narrow pinked foot ruffle , was of daffodil yellow. A skirt o" pompadour bro cade , a rich white silk strewn with huge bouquets , have a lining of plain white- gros grain , and a full flouncing balaleuse of misty French lace. Two of cloth , respectively dark blue and a fawn tkirt. had the bloom of a pink peach , owned foundations that it seemed almost a crlmo to hide. That of the fawn was maize satin , that sown with violet orchids , and the two front and side seams of the skirt Itself were ( trapped In the width of eight Inches and ornamented with nine rowa of stitching. The blue cloth was boldly dipped In open work. In narrow front and side panels , and fell loosely over In * cond skirt ot bright cherry silk. The eternal fil d * acler held thla smartly out at the bottom , and It was besides strengthened with an outside decora- lion of black satin ribbon headed with a fiat half-Inch gilt braid. FOR THE ULTRA FASHIONABLE. Extremes of fashions are concocted simply for foreign markets to catch the gulllbla American dollar principally and though Parisians may be wearing the tame thing , they have the good sense not to over do It. The cloth ekirt that flits lightly down the boulevard or trips In prace up Ihe Hue de lu Pair , measures no more than live yardu at the bottom. If made of Bilk It may cover a -circle of five yards and a ball , and it la hair clothed Instead of crinolined to make It lighter still , nnd there li never * o much as an Inside foot ruffle , When made In this way , a cloth tklrt of medium length will require four yards of fifty-four-inch material , and from ten to twelve yards of Ulc lining. Of course there- will bo huge pieces of Yale 1 Secret of the Queen of Beauty 1j j MME. M. YALE'S "IJXCHLSIOR" Complexion and Other Remedies WERB AWAIIDin ) WORLD'S ' FAIR MEDAL AND DIPLOMA , Showing the superiority over othci domestic nml foreign , remedies. JIMn. YALE Is the Creator of Beauty Culture. Indorsed by Congress. .MME. YALE , who Is acknowledged to ba n very beautiful woman , still continues to grow more beautiful every day. Age docs not seem to affect her marvelous beauty. Her Kecret lies In the use of her own won derful lictnedles. They combine within their composition rveiy Ingredient IncktiiK In tha liunmu flesh to KVU ! it tbo desired hard , youthful appearance. Any woman cnn tniiko herself Just : is fair nnd lovely aw her heart desires if she will use these remedies nc- Amnrlcn'i CSrcutviit Cnmpleiloii iitut conllni ; to their directions. They are abso llenltli lutely Rtiarunteed to bo nil that la clnlmtul SpvclnlliU for them. DriiKK'sts ' sell them everywhere. PRICE LIST : Ynlo'H IMIr Tome , VHO' ! l.n 1'rorltln nn < ! Trprklon. Turns urns * hnlr lack to Its own natural color Jfme. Ynle'ii wonilerful , In Frcckla li nllliout tlye. The llrat nnd only rcmcily In known to lie the only . mire euro for frcrklM. In fiom tlio history of known to do thl chemistry * 3 ! > to one week after Il llrst 8toii Imlr fnlllns In frnm 24 lioura to one freckle application every will disappear nml the romiloxl | n wcok , create * u luxurlnnt growth , curea onn- become as clear as crystal. Price , ! 1 per bottle. dnifC nnd all ncflti > troubles. Price. Jl p r liot- tlo ; 6 for J5. Wlmt Is moro dlSKUstlm : than Ynl * i Couiplnxlon lllttirti. to SCP either a lad > ' or a cpntlcmnn'i Imlr full < if Illtla scute * gradually raltlne on their Guaranteed lo rcmovo rallouneffs , moth riatehei shoulders ! anJ nil skin blemishes. Olvi'n a nalumt com * lilexlon of mnrvi'loua bo.iuty. I'rlce , Jl pel I'rutictirn. bottle ; | 5 for J bottles. Mine. Yale's wonderful cure for nil klnJs of Yuio's lilulrot llmmty. female wcnknras. ITIcp , II per IjoUle ; 5 for } 5. Thousands of testimonials on flic. - Cultivates natural roiy checks , a wonderful tonic. Price , Jl pur bottle. Yali-'n Almond ( 'mum. Ynlo't lllouil Tonic. ' Ilpflnes conrse parpn , keeps the 'Kln smooth ami lo\cly. I'rlciJl. . I'urlflea the blood , ncta on the liver , kldneyt V ili- ' * Skin fiiocl. and builds up tha whole s > stcnu I'rlce M pet bottle ; G for J5. Guaranteed to remove -wrinkles and every trace of iiffe. I'rlco. $ I.W anil 13. Ynlii' * Kyelush mill ICjlimv Criiwcr. VuloH .tlolti Hiid Marl Kxtmotnr. Makes the latihes KTOW thick and long , the eye Hftnovra and dealroye forever moles and warts. brows luxuriant ptul nhapely ; Btrengthens and I'rlce. W. beaut Ides the eyes. Price , U , Villa * * I.otlmt nml Ointment , ' tulu'N Iliiuil klliltnnrr. IMmplet. Illnch He.nln nnd Skin DLvisoa cured Kith Mine. Valo'n Special Lotion No. 1 nml Mnkcs tlio hands soft , Illy whlto and beautiful , Special Ointment No. 2. Guaranteed. Price , 11 Prire , Jl. each. YHIK'M "limit scott ! " Yiiln'fl Hunt Vnod. Mme. Yale's wonilerfnl remedy for nrnovln | Guaranteed to develop a beautiful bust nnd nml ileHtiriylne the Krowth of HUpcrduous hnlr , neck ; Kl\r tlrmno.is to Hie llesh nnd creates akt"i but five minutes to use ; 4oes not hurt , and a natural . condition of plumpness. Price , JI.50 Irritate or even make the skin red ; romovcl 13. every trace In one application. I'rlco } 3. OMAHA DRUGGISTS. Full line carried by Knhn & Co. , 15th anJ DouglnR streets , Mcrchnnt it V'ckcrs , lOtl nnd Howard , Klnslor Drug Co. , tOUi and L < \irrmm. W. J. Husboi , ! ! lth ami Itarnam. And by ail Nt brasku druggists. At wholesale by E. K. Ilrtioo & Co , anil Richardson Urujf Com' puny , Omaha. LINCOLN DRUGGISTS. Harloy's Drug : Store , corner O and llth streets , carry a full Hue. COUNCIL BLUFFS DRUGGISTS. George S. Davis , and ull druggists throughout Iowa. Druggists everywhere sell Mrao. M. Yale's Remedies. If druggists do nol happen to liavo tliom in stock ivhon called for , they will order for you withbul extra charge. Mail orders sent to Mine. Yalo's headquarters roeoivo prompt at tention. All correspondence answered personally. MME1. M. YAJLJB , America's Greatest Complexion and Health Specialist , YALE TEMPLE OF BEAUTY , uo statc strcc < 5llcaffo ; both left over In the cutting , much of which must ho done on the bias , but these can alvsays he utilized In helping out the bodice. Besides the Faquln model , there are Worth skirts. Felix skirts anil Doucet skirts. A Worth skirt of brown cloth was llrilsli&d at the bottom In huge scolloiw , that lay against black and wlilte check velvet , and were out lined with brown allk and edged with mink buttons. A Felix symphony In brown anil black silk , half Its full back curiously puffed Into a little tournuro and flattened at the Blilea In hews and steel buttons. And last , and most bewitching of all , was a Doucet evening skirt of opal gray inolro with green and pink reflections , and with a foot brimming of Hu : > | .in sable , headed by a long scarf of whlto lace , looped up In gar- Inncls. Kach confection la marked by some llttlo trick or cut of trimming distinctive of Us makes. Hut the Paquln , the Idol of the hour , Is the only skirt that Is always severely ami re ligiously plain. NINA FITCH. Fashion Nut < . Sleeves are In various shapes , but the full short puff ! a the most popular. Hose pink , pearly gray and opalescent shades are among the most fashionable col ors. ors.Pure golden yellow Is a highly favored color In the brocades Imported for recep tions and grand dinners. Whlto silk cozies are very dainty and are seen on the 5 o'clock tea table In fashionable drawing rooms thin autumn. Fur Is this year used very ranch ns vel vet Is , to form collarette * , pointed trim mings , shoulder capes , Immense rcvers and mutton leg sleeves. I'ink spoiled cliltton makes a lovely gonn , and when chiffon or gauze Is uced for the skirt It Is gathered lull at the waist and hangs loose from the silk tklrt underneath. Fancy plaid \elvet Is one of tha fabrics employed In combination costumes. The yoke , sleeves , deep cuffs , tklrt panels and trimmings and entlro corsages are made of It. A novelty In a ladlua * watch Is a ball of pearls which gives no hint as to the fact that there It Is useful at well as ornamental , but at the bottom of the ball the tiny face Is found. Imported Jackets of crochet , embroidery or passementorle are shown for wear over fancy silk waiits. They are slcevelcsa , are pointed and sloped back below the walat , and have turned over collars. " Some -very pretty laced boots with high arched Insteps are made ready for late autumn and winter wear , These are grace ful In outline , with a moderately high heel nnJ with room enough at the toes for the wearer to walk normally. Box coats of only medium length are thown at the best Importing bounce , formed of black or green velvet , with pointed collarette and largo sleeves made of ermine fur ; or , again , the ermine forms the coat and the velvet the sleev i and collarette. The very general fashion which prescribes the wearing of a skirt and corsage of differ * ent fabrics it moro marked than ever , and Is now quite 44 popular for evening wear as It has been for frocks worn lu the daytime. A special fancy of fashion at present is lo give th bodices a bouffant effect In front. For slender vralits the fullness li made to droop just a little below the upper dgo of the belt , and for thwe who are over-plump It should fall below the walit line , giving the effect of Blenderneii. Large ro * i ot satin antique are uicd to outline the round nacka of decollete cor sages. Women with comely necks and shoul der j are quick to grup the artistic poialblll- tlcs of thla mode. The darker furs are very effectively employed in the ani fanhlon. Ono of the elcmtnts of present fashion ip pears to be a continual experiment In odd 01 Btrlklng combinations , whether of two or three different materials , the one often In sharp contrast , yet harmonizing with the other two. A very graceful evening gown Is made of yeN low satin covered with Mack silk net , trimmed with gulpuro applique , which forms striped up and down the.skirt. The boillca has o garniture of Jet , which also falls In points on the yellow velvet sleeves. A hand , of shaded yellow roses , encircles the throat anJ trims the bottom of the skirt , I't'llllllllin iSiitc * . The princess of Wales rlilcs a tricycle. A King's Daughters circle In San Francisco is composed of eight Chinese women , two Japanese , two Syrians and two Americans. Miss Annie Macdonnell , whose work on Thomas Hardy Is the first volume In the Contemporary Authors , is the assistant odlloi of the Dookinan. The hygienic congress at liuda-Pestb brought out the fact that there are four times as many men who stammer ns there are women to afflicted. The countess of Flanders Is very fond ol dogs , and la always accompanied by half a dozen , among which Is a poodle that Is re markably clever. The sporting reporter ot the San Francisco Call Is a woman. She attends all the racci and owns a stable of flno horses herself , Her naino Is Mrs. Adeline Knapp. The only known marble alatua of the hu man figure with eyelashes Is the sleeping Arladno of the Vatican gallery , which wai found In the sixteenth century. Ily the etiquette of the Russian court a princess entering It by marriage brings noth ing In the way of wardrobe except the clothes she wears. The magnificent trousseau being prepared In Paris Is at the expense of the czar. czar.Miss Miss Comatock of Green Castle , Mo. , la probably the youngest bank olllcer In the United States. She entered the bank at Green City In March , 1883 , as assistant cash ier and bookkeeper and proved so efficient that when the owners ot the bank organized another at Green Castle , In September , 1892 , they made Miss Comstock president , of Ibe old bank and cashier of the new. The regulations of the British postofflca require that every unsound tooth shall be taken out of the mouth of all employes. An unfortunate girl who recently was examined for promotion had fourteen teeth taken out at ono sitting by order of tie | official dentist , who explained that "we can't have glrln laid up with toothache. " One wonder * Involun tarily whether tbo corporation supplied the vacancies with false teeth , Soroala , a woman' * club of San Francisco , is only a little over a year old , but It now takes Its place as one of the leading women's organizations of that city. Members can only be admitted annually , and at the recent elec tion of officers and business meeting there was so long a Hat of names to be considered that many had to be rejected becuusu of tha numerical limit ot the club. Unleia this thall be Increased a hopeleaa waiting list bai been created. At a recent sailor's wedding In London , where the groom and the beat man wera ad mirals , the bride was attended by a boat's crow of pretty brideimalds , dreiaod In charm ing nautical costumes , The * * were of white cloth , with coat bed lets faced with molra allk and trimmed with naval gold la < * ? , and having heavy gold bullion nuuet ! , Long moire suhrs , edged with the union Jack colors , anil while navy regulation caps , with the rear admiral's flag In front , completed to * tolUU.