/ - \ - irA i-r A lr ATT" r " "
OTT"VT"T A tT /1fTt/1TJT7 < T > t A 100,1
11 Woman's Domain.
G
Women always ihow by their actions that
they enjoy going to church ; men are less
demonstrative. When a. woman becomes
fliirrlod eho fcols for a fan ; when a man be
comes flurried ho feels for a cigar. Women
Jump at conclusions and generally hit ; men
reason things out logically and generally
Inlss the truth. Soma women can't pass a
millinery 1 > ° Pwithout looking In ; some
mon can't pass a public house without going
In. A woman never sets a baby without
to run to It ; a man never sees a
baby without wanting to run away from It.
Women love admiration , approbation , self-
Immolation on the part of others ; are often
Weak , vain and frivolous. Ditto wen. A
woman always carries her pursa In her
hand , so that other women will see It ; n
man carries Ills In his Inside pocket , so that
his -wife won't sco It. Awoman can sit In
a theater for three hour * without getting all
cramped up , catching the toothache , or be-
coming faint for want of fresh air ; a man
can't. A wonmn , from her sex nnd charwill
acter. has a claim to many things besides her
shelter , food nnd clothing. She Is not less a
woman for being wedded ; and the man who
Is flt to be trusted with a good wife recol-
lects all which this Implies , nnd shows himvorl
nelf at all tlmea chivalrous , swcot-spoken ,
considerate and deferential.
Upon an unhappy male scribe fell the
burden of describing the flrat wedding in
Coolgardlc , Western Australia. With a noble
dcslro to rise to the Importance of the occa-
'on. but with a llmlleJ nnd technical vocabupov
lary , ho plunged In. The bride , ho tells us ,
were "a creamy , quartz-colored silk , with
o ran go blossom outcrops. " Another lady
was dressed In a "reddish substance , with
Ironstone colored loaders running around
the main body , and looking BO nice that
many a male animal wished for a miner's
right , so that ho could apply for n perpetual
lease , Miss 13 , appeared lit a charming out
fit , the main body bolng blue , trimmed nil
down the foot wall side with laminated
leaders of dark slate color. The dancers
showed their appreciation by Immediately
prospecting round. JIlss M. set envious
teeth on edge as she waltzed round In a
slate colored robe , the principal outcrops
being decorated with diorlte colored
stringers and other surface Indications ol a
highly pleasing nature. Mora than ono poor
dryblowcr , as ho panted round the room with
a less accomplished partner , envied those
who for the- time bolng owned so good a
claim. Miss K. wore a Itaolln colored silk ,
whllo Miss S. was from peg to pg arrayed
In alato colored material , relieved at the
throat by a white qunrtzlle sort of band.
Mlsa D. , In a rich limestone colored creation ,
relieved nt the datum points near tha neck
and shoulders , looked a-j pretty a picture as
prospector or painter might wish to see. "
After the funeral of the comto de Paris
the splendid floral emblems , ot which there
weie over sixty , were , by the order of his
widow , photographed and then taken to
WeybrUlge , whore they were put In the
mausoleum. The beautiful wreath sent by
the officers In the- American army measured
twonty-flve feet In circumference and conpos
talned more than 3.000 artificial rotes
What to do with the great quantity of
flowers nnd emblems that still accompany
many funerals , notwithstanding the fre
quency of the"klndly omit flowers" notice ,
is often a question to the family of the de
ceased. Keccntly a man prominent In a
public way died and the- house , was almost
besieged on the day of the funeral by mrs-
oSnsnrA irryl.ng their burdens of Hoovers
When the cortege wended its way to the
cemetery several carriages -were piled high
with the pieces , alter the casket had been
literally covered with loose flowers. All
were placed on and about the grave and thira
left , which Is the usual course. A better
use would seem to be to break apart the
splendid masses of bloom and to scatter
them among the sick nnd the poor. In the
cas referred to such a course would have
been peculiarly appropriate , as the dead man
was ono who never turned a deaf car to the
Buffering and whoso charities can never half
be told.
Probably the two most Interesting persons
in Washington today aieMrs. . Peary , wife
of Meutenant Peary , the famous arctic ex
plorer , and her llttte daughter , Marie Ahmlg-
ito Peary.
Youne Miss Peary Is born to a greatness
she can never escape. Like Vlrglna Dare ,
she will go down to posterity sung of many
tongues , her primary clnlm to distinction
bolng that she Is the flrat of her kind to be
gin existence among the glaciers and ice caps
of northern Greenland.
Besides , this , however , little Ahmlglto has
moro than even a first baby's list of per
fections. SBIs very pretty , with flaxen hair
and big blue eyes ; she Is wonderfully vigor
ous and well ; she la gay and bonny , ready teat
laugh with any one , and , with a pluck that
could hardly be absent from the child of
such resolute and plucky parent ) , she has
passed the trying flrat year of life with an
OSSB and success that other babies should be
urged to emulate.
The present tendency In philanthropic
movements Deems to be toward a non-elab
orate system of management. The circle bof
King's Daughters , an organization of really
stupendous size , has so little red tape about >
it that the untutored cash girl of the city
stores can grasp Its scope and machinery.
Tha Needlework guild started In England ,
with Lady Wolverton at Its head , and du-
Clicated in'this country with Mrs. J. luH \ \
Stewart as president , la a marvel of great
ness and simplicity. A woman who has
pent her llfo In charitable work said heat
other day : "I am convinced that Ihe great
est benefit to the r\ocdy can be secured
through some system ot regular Individual
giving to Individual need. If every well-to-
do family would take some other family
who needed assistance nnd agree to help It
over tbe bard places , I think the charitable
bureas and offices could be shut up. " Some
thing of this system has been suggested In
En ' f land , where a general commltteo shall
J'eoolve the names of the charitably lls-
posed to pass on lo heads ot districts where
ftant exists , thus bringing the two parties to
the transaction in actual contact.
A woman writing from Liverpool where
ihe assisted "at the street festivities only
St the visit here of the duke and duchess
Of York. " says ol the latter : "Of course
I was interested to seethe probable future
queen of England , .and I was fortunate
onoueh to be very near the carriage as she
cams to It at tha railway station. The
daughter of some dignitary , a llttlo girl
aresstd In a white frock and a big white
picture hat , but most tastelessly wearing
tan shoes and stockings , presented the
duch j with a bouquet of lovely orchids and
1111-93 at the left the
train
, and It waa wear
ing the imlla of pleated acceptance of this
courtesy that I saw her. Nothing , however.
can make the duchess of York pretty. She
bat a iced , kind face , but heavy , and most
dlsllluilonlngly unarlstocratlc. At her
> moth * ? ' * , aye she will bo tha commonplace
tooklng matron that the duchess ot Teck
IB. and undoubtedly equally devoid of figure
. and presence. What a pity royal women are
BO disappointing ! It would
be a real pleasure
to see. an English one who looked as 1C born
to ths purple. l'\o had some ot the young
women of the aristocracy pointed out to ma ,
- and raott of them are beautiful blch-bred
* . appearing girls , but a step higher In English
society shatters all traditions ot blue blood.
Dr. Home of the Pasteur Institute claims to
hava found a cure far croup , that terror r of
youn * mothers , n const-its In tbe subcu
taneous injection * srru i ( alrcn from the
blood of a liom thai has been previously
Vaccinated with the cultivated microbes i of
croup. Th Injection should be made once
for all , POOD after It la made the tempera
ture , falls. tlo qro/cvth ot the false meiu-
branq.1 * , arrested , In twenty-tour hours they :
begin to peel from the liifihl. ) ot the throat ,
and In thlrtv-frlx hours the larynx U free
from th bacilli. Dr. Hutu : < rgan hit treat-
thent H ) tlis Children's hospital on February
1. Ho > took there with him a large supply
of th teruni and InnocuUted erery child
bo found suffering from croup. The ordinary
local and other treatment wag coqtlnued
Or. Iloux nski us to remember Out In tbe
yean 181)0 ) , 1851. J893 in.l . 1693 , cut if 3.971
UtIMrtn treated for croup at th 'hospital
whw * tie experimented , 2,029 tiled. Since I
February last , out of 448 children who re-
celved the scrum Injections , 109 died.
.
The Ver.us do Medici Is C feet 5 Inches In
height , 25 Inches about the- waist , 34 about
the bust nntl II about the hips. II
employed as "cloak models" by most of the
dry goods establishments arc about of the
same height. The measurements required of
I a "model" 5 feet and 6 Inches In height In
ono establishment are the following : Waist ,
22\t to 24 Inches ; bust , 34 to 35 ; hip , 45 to
47 , base 1 of skull to waist , 1C ; biceps , 11Hto
12.
12.A
A "prominent physician recently gave the
following as the current measurement for a
well ] ( formed , well developed and healthy
woman ) of 5 feet C inches : Waist , 21 Indies ;
bust 33W to 3I1& ; bleeps , 12 to 13 ; wrist , CH
to G5i ; hips. 41 to 45 ; calf , 13 to 1C , and
ankl . 7 to TVS. The doctor's "model woman"
has similar hips and a smaller bust and
about the same -waist as a "cloak model. "
Therela ( every prospect that braid will bo
very largely used durin ; ; this season , bolh
on dresses < and on coa'ft. The plain skirts
will bo trimmed with either ono very xvldo
braid or three , or , perhaps , five narrower ,
and for this purpose military brnid will be
very much In request. There are several
new makes of this , and ono which Is made
In | Imitation | of lattice work Is rather a fa
vorite. Sometimes the braid will bo carried
up to I the waist on cither side of the front ,
and the Intervening space filled In with a
double row of enormous buttons , a trimming
which generally comes In with braid. It Is
a senseless kind oC ornamentation , and ono
which j occasionally Is extremely noisy , as ,
for Instance , in church , when the buttons
are apt to rattle against the front of the
po\v ,
A "Fast day" soup that Is delicious any-
day la made from the tops of a bunch of
celery. Add two quarts of water , n tablespoonful -
spoonful of butter , nn onion , and four pota
toes , sliced. Doll for two hours , and Just
before pouring into the tureen over toasted
bread cut Into dice or croutons , thicken
slightly with flour wet In cold water.
A lively young Danish woman. Miss Sophie
Chrlstcnsen ( | , Is anxious to get work In Chi-
cogi as a carpenter and joiner. In the city
of Copenhagen she learned the trade , to
which she was bound as an apprentice. When
her apprenticeship was completed , a short
( line ago , she was admitted to full member
ship In the union. She displayed grcit apti
tude < and skill as a worker at the trade , and
she Is ready to display specimens of her
handicraft. } Among other things , she has
made a "self-closing bookcase" which Is
serviceable , artistic and beautiful , and which
Is | admired by everybody who sees It.
TIir.IK CUMt'LlMKXTS.
Highly lYillnhrd ( lifts anil Orurrn that Jlnho
the Nrw i'ark Women Attructlto.
NEW YOKK. Oct. 12. Descriptions of the
dresses. Jewels , lace , carriages and recep
tions of the grand dames who are members
of the " 400 , " abound upon all sides. Their
aceonipltsbmonts are less exploited , although
quite as worthy of notice.
In fact there Is no harder worked woman
In the world than the society leader , who
has an abundance of money and Is also sup
posed to have an equal amount of leisure.
Sin has a "lesson"
of
some kind
every day
;
It Is 1 a German
one morning
, French another ,
and so on through six days out of seven.
If she has not written at least one book ,
It Is not from lack of dcslro to do so.
Mrs. Pierre Lorlllard , for Instance , has
published a book or two and they are gen
erally regarded as noteworthy as her gowns
which Is saying a good deal. lllss Sallle
Hewitt , daughter of ex-Mayor Hewitt , Is also
literary In her tastes and has written sev
eral magazine articles. She also spends
ono or two hours dally at the piano or prac
ticing on the violin ; her sister , Eleanor , is
equally as studious , although perhaps moro
-
de-voted to outdoor sports ; she Is a clever
whip and can drive
n four-ln-hand.
Mrs. Wilbur A. Bloodgood la a woman of
varied accomplishments ; she Is often seen
on the amateur stage , and Is a good actress.
Then she slngn as well as she acts , fences
as well as she sings , drives and dances and
In her drawing room hang two portraits ,
ono of herself and one of her little daughter ,
painted by her own hand.
Mrs. Lloyd S. Bruce , daughter of Mr. Ed
ward Cooper , and wife of the editor and
proprietor of the North. American Review
,
has really wonderful talent as an artlat ,
and had Mrs. Bryce not been a "society
"
girl" she would
probably have achieved dis
tinction as a portrait painter and cari
caturist.
Mrs. Qabrlelle drceley Clendenln Is won-
derfully clever with both pen nnd pencil ,
ana some or her etchings on wood , ilnnn
with an ordinary pen ,
are really works of
art ; had she , too , been obliged to turn her
talent to use she would have achieved re
nown and been
reckoned among the artists
of the day.
Mrs. John dl Zerega , mother of the late
Lady Franklin , Is ono of the literary lights
In Now York society ; her flrst 6ook , a child's
story , was made up of tales flrst originated
for her own children's
amusement ; at the
suggestion of a friend she wrote out the
stories and had them published. She has
recently translated some fairy tales
from
the French.
Mrs * Richard P. Lounsbery's pet
accom
plishment , ono among a number , Is pho
tography , and some of the pictures she makes
are worthy of a professional , so clever are
they In pose , light nnd shading and finish
ing. Portraiture IB
especially her
hobby , and
nnt only haa Mrs. Lounsbery photographed
each member of her family , but she has
also accomplished the unique feat of photo
graphing herself , with slight assistance from
a friend , who removed and rop'aced ' the
cov
ering from the camera. For this picture Mrs ,
Lounsbery wora th plcturesquo Turkish
costume -
tume , In ' which she appeared at Mme. Uarlos
do Hoda's costume ball
about two or three
yeara ago. She wore some genuine Turkish
Jewelry , and Jier fac wag veiled a la Turk _
with a veil , however , so fl liny "ami " "cob- x
"
weby" that it allowed the features to be
plainly scon.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor has
many
nccom-
-
pllshmcnts. but th ones which afford her
the keenest
enjoyment
are athletic
ones
tennl\ playing for Instance , at which she
Is an expert , sailing cathoats , at which she
has recently won distinction and applause
,
and cycling ; although she has not made
" " any
"century" runs , at yet , she it a rapid and
skillful bicycler.
Jllss Fnnnie Taller , a tall , stately girl , is
distinguished among her friends
as a bright
and shining light at the tennis courts.
Mrs. Ocorgo Andrews , wife of Judge An
drews , is one of the- best linguists In New
lork , and every morning she devotes two
hours , and often more , to her favorite studies
In this line. She always has a German
mold and a French
one. and converses with
them in their own tongue.
Law Is a strong point with Mrs. Theodore
Sutro , and tlio could give points to a Phila
delphia attorney. She studied It quite
ro-
-
cantly at the University of Now York Law
school , and when she graduated had the
distinguished honor of being the valedic
torian of the class.
MM. Henry Vlllard and her eldest daughter
Helen , are accomplished pianists , at well as'
German tcholars. Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish is
also musicI. and plays remarkably
troll.
Miss
Rockefeller , daughter ot Mr. John D
Rockefeller , devotes her lime to violin playIng -
Ing ; she possesses a valuable Stradlvarlus
and also an Amatl violin.
Miss Klrkland Is playing the leading part
"
in "
"Shenandoab" tt tbe Academy of Music
for the season. Tha rooms here are spacious
and Mr. Frchman' has put oslda a pretly
suiteTor' her. Mli Klrkland looked Into
the mode of .
.entertaining while abroad I Ills
year and rime back determined to adopt It.
The hu-ga aifdnff room In which she re
ceives her friends it hung otter the English
fnshlon In delicately colored chintz. The
woodwork _ , Is blue. The windows are cross-
barrel with nlagre JJron and hung In golden
brown plush. Hugs , are thrown about the
floor , great divans covered with golden velvet
nre ptlfd high with lh ) and Persian cushions.
A low Krench dinser is placed under two
rcnt side lights-on Mlilrh He a multitude of
sliver " toilet articles : \A" writing desk Is usu-
ally" open with MIw ICIrKlwid't nwnogrammed
paper -lying ready ucd everywhere- mail-
nee days nro flowers.
Qua only goes hy Invitation and usually
pleasant people nre brought together by the
tact of the uostessv Bometlmui a clever
muscia | ! IBttkeU aflQ Id a mist Informal
reway ha upends Ills time , at the- piano , while
the maid serves tea In the exquisite cups that
were sent' to Mist Klrkland by friends when
her rcctnt engagement to Mr. Howard Qould
wn , announced.
Htlss | Klrklnnd i\ear very smart house
gowns at these receptions. One I noticed
was strikingly graceful and Frenchy. The
robe ( was of mandarin yellow , with huge
gathered | collar of yellow batiste edged with
Valenciennes. The largo sleeves were gath
ered at the elbow with narrow blue satin rib
bons. As she walked the robe showed the
pettlcoit of the same silk with vnrl-colored
"pinked" rullles , each loco covered. Louis
XV. slippers of yellow suede with fllagrced
silver buckles completed the costume.
oiliVICl
L ? ( > * f-ttjt
Now lints au < l UonnotH Designed for tlio
Oponliii ; Hoinmi.
NEW YORK , Oct. 12. Big hats have come
to town. 1 They are , says Mme. Mode , with
her foot well down , for carriage , church ,
promenade any social functions alone ; so
lot tlio woman break this solemn law who
dares.
danA
Among the most unique and becoming ot
the largo shapes yet shown was ono that
looked as if It might just have stepped
donn from a IlejiioMs portrait. In fact ,
picture effects , It Is to bo clearly seen , are
the order of the day , and many and varied
are the suggestions they give.
The brim of this hat , which was -wide and
almost without a curve , was a skeleton
structure of wire and black net , with a
small roll of bright green as a border
edge ,
edgT
The crown , high and stiff , and looking
more like a. Trench bonbon box than any
thing else , was made entirely of the velvet.
The Mine color In a rich ribbon velvet re
peated itself In a wide Alsatian bow at tbe
left front , and fastening behind this was a
high tuft of loosely waved black ostrich
feathers.
feaA
Another delightfully picturesque freak ,
fashioned after this model , had Its small ,
steep , powder box crown made of blush-
apple velvet , which , with its delicate streaks
of yeltow and crimson , closely Imitates that
fruit. A charming addition In the way ot a
pair of wide , black crepe de chine strings
has been added to this , and Instead of the
net a full moon of jetted lace , cunningly
wired , formed the brim. The solo outside
trimming , a bunch of blaolc feathers as large
almost as a small bush , was fastened Imme
diately In front , with n square jet buckle.
But If those
two bats hnve a reason for
being , by virtue alone of their becoming
qualities , how to account for the next fan-
talslel H was as curious and ugly as
some strange weird flower , ono of the un
canny mushrooms that sometimes come to
us from Paris , and the mere sight of it re
calls a certain inconsistency for which the
French are famed. Fathers and mothers of
all fashions , at least the best and the worst
of them , they nevertheless resent openly ,
and with no mincing
manners , any new-
whim oC La Mode that seems merely bl-
ZU ( re.
The flrst flower bonnet went down the
streets of Paris followed by HIP hoots of the
multitude , and ox-en atones. Foreign fashIons -
Ions are stared at nnd audibly commented on
by the passers by , and one of our own
master In the art ot chiromancy , often began
his readings with a hand shake. It Is not ,
however , no set down In his book on Iho
subject , or in nny other work I have over
seen.
The mere louch of the hand gives you n
certain Intimate acqualntancn with It that
all the lines and bumps nnd oven the gen
eral form of the palm and fingers can not
tell one. For example , the pallid , slender ,
thin-skinned , loosely-knit , moist , cool hand
of the woman who lives on her nerves In
dicates lack of health nnd lack of vitality.
Such n hand belongs to > a sentimental , mor
bid temperament , and Is an Invaluable key
to the reading of the lines. U Is easy also
to detect from the feeling of the lingers the
uses to which. lh.ejare put. The violinist
with his callmuea finger-tips , the elastic
spread of the'llriscrs and the development
of the muscles , across the hand of the prac
tised pianist , 16(1 ( the tale of such occupa
tions at onco.
I the left hand Is larger than the right ,
It is n strong pre/sumption / in itself that the
owner . . Is lofthanupd , In this case ask to
shake both halidsi You can at once detect
the leflhanded.Tman by this means and that
In 1 ; spite ot tho.fak . that ho Is in the habit
of Rlvltig Iho rftfht hand for the purpose. The
stronger muscular development and workaday -
day feel of the le'ft hand leaves you In no
doubt.
A firm , strong , -warm clasp , bespeaking
health 1 : and heahlness , tells you of the un
suspicious , generous normal man or woman ,
and such a nature * la free from certain petty
faults. Even If you should see the o very
j traits written In tlio palm lines , you realize
that they are balanced or overbalanced by
virtue of what ! the hand-shako implies , and
you Interpret the opposing lines and marks
as inherited qualities. For , to the eye of
the keen observer , cnch hand is a record , not
only of Itself , but of Us forbears.
A careful examination of the general form ,
the consistency of the ( leah and skin , gives
you an Idea of the admixture of nationality
In a person. If there has been Latin blood ,
by which I mean French , Ilollnn , Spanish ,
any of the southern races , with Anglo-Saxon ,
It betrays Itself In a certain difference In
texture , hard to explain , but easy of detec
tion to ono who knows It , There Is a sllk-
Inoss of the skin , and the flesh lies under It
Ilko the Inside of a ripe peach. It Is a more
sensuous hand to hold , or to look at Ot
such a typo is the soft but flrm woman's
hand that slides slowly out of your clasp ,
Ilko a white kitten ; a hand suggestive of
Romeo's words :
"For palm to palm Is holy palmer's kss. ! "
The Turk , the Egyptian , the Greek have
these qualities to a still moro marked de
gree , and n deeper shade of color that helps
the novice to recognize the trace of such
blood moro easily. It is extraordinary how
ono drop of foreign blood Inherited from an
antagonistic race will endure and show It
self after generations of pure breeding. As
an example of this , let mo tell you the story
ot an artist , a very well known American
artist , whose hand I read last winter , be
fore I knew his name.
"You hive Oriental blood In your veins ;
southern at least , " I said. Ho gave mo a
quick glance , and asked :
"How da you Uriow that ? "
I smiled. I was not at the moment un
raveling the. mysteries of the art , as 1 am
now doing I
"I have been American born and bred
over since the battle of Bunker Hill , " he
said , "on both sides , but my ancestor , who
fought there a. mere boy had a Spanish-
Moorish name , Inherited from a Spanish-
Moorish father. He , the father , came over
to New Orleans as a .refugee , about tha
time when poor Mnnon Lescant made her
tragic journey to the same place. This an-
countrywoman ' , Miss Viola Rose-born , the
clover magazine writer , tells somewhere
that she was once so amazed In Paris by re
marks on her headgear which happened to
be a dashing little Scotch travellnc cap
th she put It under her arm and walked
home bareheaded and respected.
And now. with the memory of all thla in-
lence. this hat !
Picture a monster disc , straight and flat as
ha ogre's plate in the fairy tale , of deep ,
sold colored felt.
Put In front on this vast , untrlmmed e < c-
nsB a single low bow of black velvet ,
yhoso wide , stiff ends touch the edge of the
trim at each side. Under this brim , as if
growing out of Ihe temples , fasten two large
balls of silver and Rhine stones , next , from
he two crown sides underneath , hang two
dack ostrich feathers that curl around the
coiffure and droop to the shoulders , and lo ,
he latest French freak that offends the
American palate.
In this large hat the temple ornaments
were distinctly out of place , but for small
lats and bonnets they form an effective and
becoming1 garniture. Indeed , the very latest
fad In millinery 13 a broadening effect at
he aides , and to emphasize this , not only
balls and jeweled horns of every description
are used , but also velvet choux and seal and
sable heads ,
A tiny saucer bonnet of flatno pink crepe
ruffled like a peony has an entire brim.of
baby seal heads , with two larger ones ac
centing the eldes. Another , a minute tri
angle of scarlet felt braid , sugggesting the
headdress ot the east , was bewllderlngly
beautiful. It fitting close to the bead Ilko a
skull cap , and from the center of the flat
crown rose two shadowy Mercury wings of
black ' - gauze starred with jet. Looped
through the brim around the front and sides
was a long scarf of thin white lace that fell
In short headdress ends behind the cars , and
projecting straight In front , and near to
gether , like two large beetle horns , was a
pair of dull silver ornaments richly set with
red stones.
Another Inflnltesslmal toque of turquoise
blue velvet wrapped over wires had as Its
only trimming a cluster of tiny cut jet
lBKS at each temple ,
All of theie bonnets , the confidential mo
diste Informs us. can be worn at a pinch
at the theater , but since license In bonnets
points toward a sneaklnc In of hats as well
and maybe big ores ( alas ! one can only
hope the pinch may never come. Besides ,
everything else considered , If all women only
knew It , thew is no hat or bonnet on earth
so becoming as a well groomed bare head.
Mme. Mode .empties from her horn an In
conceivable variety In color and shape ,
One marvels where she gets Jhem all , and
If they were designed for prlncesf s , they
are such precious luxuries ; but any ono ot
them abounds In taluable hints for the
nlinbio fingers of a home milliner.
Brims , even of felt hots , aro. not neces
sarily of the same color as the crown ; thus
a yellow crown may own a black brim , or
clso the crown may bo entirely of velvet
flowers and tha rim ot Jolt. A charming-
Felix Conlln , fashioned In this way , had c
brim of wavy brown felt and a crown ol
blue vflvet roses while a smart little Eng
lish walking hat of pigeon gray felt and black
"
"Kings liad. curiously enough , a black silk
brim. Hugo white lace bows ornamenl
black hats , and In some cases low crowns are
made to look high with bands of silk or satin
ribbon.
Tbe best of possible tints , however , for a
becoming and useful walking hot could be
taken from the one showing ( ho two view :
in the group drawing.
It was designed especially for a moon faced
southern beauty , ' and was of brnnzo fel
braid , mirror velvet pf the amo.jsbadi. am
black wings. NINA
FITCH.
SUM : LIGHTS'ON
Amulcur I'nlmlit T l | ome Of the Secret *
of Her \Voildcrfu ! Art.
When I read s. palm I always begin by
shaking hands with my victim. This It m ;
own Idea , as far as I know , though I havi
recently beard tint Dcsbarolles , tha pit
cestor found h\s \ way Bostonwards. There
ha met , married a Puritan maiden , and
thetr bay. at tile ago of thirteen , fought at
the great battte Ihe Yankee boy with the
Moorish name. lln each generation ever
since there has been a Yankee boy , -with
that same name ? , ahd I am the last of them. "
So here was the strange Oriental blood
showing Itself in this man's hand after flvo
generations , as it'showed ' Itself In his name
and fame , too , perhaps , for he sees and de
picts things as the descendants of a dweller
on the Mediterranean shores do. .
The general critical survey of the hand
following the handshake will tell you , too ,
nucli about the tastes , the habits of the tn-
dlvld.ual. The hand of the athlete Is known
at once ; the hand of the sportsman , of the
urgeon nro most easy of detection , and every
rade sets Its seal , upon the hand that prac-
Iccs It. only thai It requires experlenco and
ibservatlon , for experience and observation .
n this art , as in every other , ara worth all
he learning of the schools , There is a cer-
aln precision , firmness " , yet delicacy ot
ouch that makes" almost Impossible for
one to be deceived about a band that is In
he habit of working with the eye or mind ,
I have never seen Buffalo Dill's hand , but
should not guess at It , If fifty hands were
> ut hrough a hole in he wall at mo and I
cnew that ono of them were Mr. Cody's ,
rlls hand should be long , brown , flrm , pre-
lensile almost , with eyes In the finger tips
like a blind man's , and tha clasp of it should
> e like iron behind velvet.
The typical surgeon's hand and It la very
generally typical , I find suggests ths scalpel
at once to the keen , practised eye ; the turn
of the wrist ; Ita dextrous play and freedom ,
he development of muscle at the bate of the
thumb ; the machine-like precision of move-
lie nt , make it ot all
, hands , the most capa- n
lile , the most human , the further removed
[ rom the elementary type with Its short ,
thick fingers and Inflexible Hard palm.
Look at your fr.end's hands and try , 1C
after a little feeling and gating , you are not
able to tell which girl la the girl who -em- of
liroldors , who draws , which one Is musical ,
which one goes in for tennis and paddling. a
The easiest hand to detect Is the natural
horsewoman's hand a hand like Mrs ,
Beach's the teacher of one of our fashion
able riding schools , jn New York , and who
has ridden many a Itubborn , frightened ,
"green hunter" to safe victory In the an
nual horse show. Such a hand la light , light
as elder down , but with , whipcord nerves be
low , as
Ths sweetest typi of. woman's "hand " Is the
'born" r.urse'j hand , th $ palm And Cnge a tyn.
soothe with a touch , that brush away with
their magic aches , and pains and griefs.
Happy indeed the woman who has the In
blessed gift of laying on ot hands.
AH this Is prologue and preface to your
study of palmistry proper , to the * lines and
fingers' the Joints , Jbo a tars , the crosses , the
Mountof Venus- ; the Plain of Mara , oil the
pretty secrets of chiromancy , with their hidden -
den and significant meaning * .
M. M.
MKW PARISIAN TOILETS.
on
' * litlCt- Actress MU ICUlo d
iVnlfo , iQji'Wio luub'o Hliop. "
NEW YDRIqla * . 12. Parisian fashions
today are lnaugjf 4d by a few of the promi
nent French Bpn actresses in the modern me
drama. ' Are A wfcan modes to be Intro at
duced by Amebcatt actresses ! It looks to
The majority oC them now order tliclr toilets
from the world's leading ortlilt In dress of
and American taste has to impressed Its ex
clusive elegance ilpoii the designers ol feml
nlulty's finest feathers , they plume them are
selves upon -tae b&uty and originality of Ihe
creations they make for American women.
One ot Ihe mWt Elegantly dreisedwomen
on the American J 'lags today la Miss Elsie as
Je Wolfe. Now YdWs society actress , nnd one
of the very few rtembera of the Four Hun
dred who have1 * dttcd the grace of their
gentle birth and breeding ; to tbe. stage , and
keep up their -Affiliation with the Brahmin
tet.
tet.A
A trio of tollcU'tbat Mist da Wolfe- wears and
In "Tho lUublo Shop" keeps her aufllcncs
In A murmur of admiration. They nro es
pecially succccsfut apart from their in
trinsic style and beauty , because they BUR-
Rest the refinement of a lady of fashion and
family in her own Oraivlnt ; room , and noth
ing of the over accentuation , of fashion that
crowds a toilet over the line separating1 good
taste ( rom bad ,
Immensely chic and extremely coed form
Is n mornlriK calling toilet In light blu
slctllcnno silk. It ! not of the now bluet
( cornflower blue ) that is destined to bo
hopelessly common , but a clear , pale sky
A VlalTlMU TUlblJT.
blue. The skirt is a marvel of fullness ,
yards and yards wide around the bottom ,
and yet not an extra Inch of material round
tha waist cave at the l > , ick.
Cut a circle from tissue paper. Make a
ole in the center , and flt it upon a doll ,
his will give you the effect so far as the
at tern of the skirt goes. About the foot of
ho skirt , which Is so full It falls as 11 flares
award the bottom Into overlapping and e\er
- -
hanging folds , thcro are flights ot butter-
les In black , llttlo ones nnd largo ones
mounting nearly to the knees , and then
'
'ailing back to one or two. These recherche
ccorattons are not nmbroldercd or ap-
llqued on the silk , but are Inserted In It.
'ho silk under each butterfly , which Is of
ace. nnd of exquisite workmanship , is cut
way to show the whlto silk petticoat bc-
eath.
The bodlco Is also circular In shape with
nore fullness over the bust and between the
boulders than at the neck. It Is made whole
n front and fastens down the left shoulder ,
round the arm nnd under it to the sashes ,
hero are two of these. One Is of lovely
lac purple velvet of the shade of a pansy
otal , Jind thcro Is a crushed stock collar to
natch this celnture , which is flnlshed oft at
he left of the waist with some careless loops ,
nd a cluster of velvet pnnsies The second
elnturc Is of black velvet and this Is tied
nto a Jaunty upstanding bow at the back ,
nd falls In two long narrow sash ends on the
< lrt. There is a flight of butterflies , nbout
ie shoulders , and ono perches piquantly on
10 inner edge of each sleeve. The sleeves
ro single balloonllko puffs to the elbows
The halt large hat has. a stialght brim of
elvot and the crown is concealed with bouf-
ant loops of blue ribbon and curling coq
Paquhi tot Paris created a superb dinner
rcssora by Miss de Wolfe which has a
aring'gored Bklrt , perfectly plain , of salmon
Ink satin. The under side of the satin Is as
ellow as gold , but although the yellow warp
nol permitted to stamp Its Individuality
cry strongly upon the pink woof , neverthe-
ess the pink surface shimmers. In every ray
t light with a faint golden flush. The silk
lanufacturers this season verily have wrested
lie last color secret from gems and skies.
The bodice Is of white chiffon Just covering
: io bust in a square line back and front.
The hhouldera are two crushed straps of apple
rcen velvet. This velvet , which by artificial
[ gbt Is softened to look a'lmost blue , forms
ie elbow sleeves that arc large putls , and the
rrlnkled celnture. Old yellow lace forms
eep epaulettes over the sleeves.
The opera wrap designed to wear with this
gown Is an cxqulslto crcatloii of violet velvet
hot with green and lined with Ivory satin.
The shape Is circular , reaching to the wrists
n. frofikand at the- back and shortened con-
Idorably over the arms. The shape and an
nterllnlng make the wrap sit all round In
tery smart sfyle. A beautiful old lace scarf
n ivory frits is draped about the collar ,
arming a ftliort capo , and jabot falls down the
ronta , where each corner Is ornamented with
rorc'
a choux nr rosette of velvet ribbon and long
end . A rosette of tlio velvet Is set also on
each edge of th& collar to drape the lace.
The entire lower portion of the cape is
/rought by hand In yellow , repeating the
pattern of the lace above
Felix , whoIB the beat fitter known to the
'ashlonable ! world Worth does not believe In
Ittlng smoothly made the dinner dress. He
also created the carriage dress worn by Miss
de Wolfe In another act.
This Is a beautiful model of the latest now
wrinkle for having the skirt and sleeves of
ono material and the bodlco of another. Sil
very gray SIclllenne forms the skirt and the
sleeves , which arc huge leg o' mutton nffalrs ,
also the pointed girdle and cape collar. The
Tlmming Is embroidery In sliver done by
.land on the silk , tiny spangles being Intro .
duced In the embroidery to heighten the
effect ,
The bodice Is of white chiffon and the- dress
s a vision of refined elegance.
UltliaS
The Possib'llty of a CJond IJu lnes Uponing
for a Clever Artlit.
"It Is surprising , " said the head of a large
flrm for supplying ready made gowns whole
sale , "that there are so few women designers
signers In New York. One sees women
struggling to squeeze Into already over
crowded occupations , but never stopping to
think of something new. "Now , one with
natural ability for artistic and practlca
dressmaking or designing could make a good
living telling ideas to great houses. There
are men who supply this need , but never
woman. "
. ,
"Does not each flrm secure a designer ?
Inquired.
"No , " he replied , "The retail firms gen
crally buy from the wholesale , and they
copy or adopt foreign fashions. Some firms
course , do employ women , and these can
make anywhere from | J5 to J7G a week , with [
trip to Europe thrown in. "
He went on to say that it a woman was
clever and had some capital she could opei
an office and make a success. An abundan
patronaco could be secured of large whole
sale firms , retail ones , modistes , etc. If her
orders are only sufficient for her own time
she makes designs for all sorts and condl
tlons ot clothes , selling them for as much
an Illustrator Is paid single and double
column drawings. If she cannot sketch well 10
let her make each model of colored tlssu
paper.
There are ft hundred things to bo don
thlt lino. New York Is a tremendou
fashion mill , grinding all the grist that i
thrown Into | t. A new collar or cuff , a
shoulder jirrntiEtment , the manner of finish
ing the bottom of a gown , a new way lo
iiooka bodice these are all minor detail
that are eagerly caught up by the rapaclou
maws of the stores. This patronage could S
not be accomplished In a day or a year , bu
the business would pay as much In the be
glnnlnic and petter in the end than many
which women are now existing.
I know a woman In New York now. whose
fingers are nimble and taete exquisite , am
thre < 3 largo firms have offered her their pat
ronage If ? he will supply them. She assure
that she feels confident of $75 a week
from therfe three should she have good talen
hand.
Rv n If the -Woman cannot alone auppb
onlert or suggestions , she can have a corp
faihlori artists , -who may tell their work
through her , the exacting a commission.
Tilt very large retail firms that make
specialty of reedy made govrnt and bodice
the bett to work for ; they are koteldo
scoplc In their , rapid changes.
Again , prominent modistes are willing , frc
quently , to pay for good tuggeetlons as we
the largo furriers and cloakmakert
Taking It alt In all. to quote again the bus
nets man. "It should be a most profits bl
undertaking. "
_
Tlio llrtt IVInlrr flower.
The pahty ( no greater favorite for stprln
summer ( ban U the Roman byaclnth
'orwinter. . Small womltr that this Is co.
t la not a "fusty" plant , nor ono tuualty
roubled by Insects , no that tlio beginner
lands nearly as good a chance to succeed
Ith It as does the expert. Its delicate
rugranco la niott delightful , while Its abun-
ant eplkea of beautiful , pendant , snow-whlto
jolts are exquisite- alike for window dccora-
on , cutting or wearing. Lost of all , as they
est but CO cents a dozen , and two bulbs are
ifilclent to fill a four or five-Inch pot , people
f moderate means can afford to use them-
rccly. They can be kept dry until midwinter
Ithout injury , BO ono can plant them nt
ircc-vteok Intervals from September until
nnuary , nnd thus secure a constant succe.v
nn ot their lo\cly flower from December to
prll.
Lately many amateur gardeners have
doptcd the pleasant custom of buying a
ozen or so bulbs In September or October ,
signing them for Christmas presents to
lowerJovlnj ; and Invalid friends. Few cx-
icnslvc presents give ns much pleasure and
ortalnly none speak moro plainly of loving
: are and forethought to minister to our
rlends' likings.
Like all Holland bulbs , the Roman hyacinth
ccJs to take a sojourn In the dark , after
Uniting , In order to form good roots to sus-
aln the ( lower spikes that otherwise would
irematurely spring up and as quickly perish
rom lack of nourishment. They are not a't
II particular n to soil , but that a llttlo
andy and open best suits them. Cover them
ghtly , so that the tip ot their crowns just
: ow , water well and place in a cool , dark
: llar or closet until well rooted , Early In
19 season this may rcqiilro six or seven
tecks time , later it will take but half as
OUR , as the roots develop faster. After
> rtnging to the light they require absolutely
o special care , except to remove the spikes
s they fade , when new ones will usually be
ent up in their place. It Is nothing unusual
or a white Roman hyacinth to have from
VO to seven spikes of flowers , and to remain
n flower from four to six weeks Try a few
jotsful of them this winter , and ray word
or It , you will never bo without them an
ther season.
I'nshlon Notes ,
ThereIs still n great fancy for short Jacket
waists , the style even extending to those
made of seal and other furs.
There Is a largo chance for seed pearl col-
i '
I " ; " In numerous strands connected by bars
so as to set well about the neck.
Black birds and wings , which arc used In
largo numbers , are strewn with fine jet
fragments that provo so enlivening.
Doe kid and chamois skins are again used
on expensive i gowns for vests , cuffs , collars ,
tc.f , and also on imported French bonnets.
Veiled bodices Is n term applied to silk
bodlcos veiled with nccordlon-plalted chiffon.
jt is j a particular
. , fashion Just now and very
pretty.
Baby astrakhan -will be the favorite coat
trimming for the season. It Is both becoming
and durable. It is used freely on dark brown
and green cloths.
Changeable effects In satins , silks , moires ,
silk and wool mixtures and fancy -velvets are
still the correct fashion , notwithstanding
their prolonged favoritism ,
On some of the model walking skirts of
covert or Venetian cloth Is a band of Russian
galleon , woven in red , green ( or black ) and
gold , with a very narrow line of fur each side
ot the gimp.
Tlio French felt turbins , toques and round
hats now exhibited by fashionable Importers
are dyed In lovely shades of color , In mauve ,
dove-gray , fawn , old rose , pale and dark
greens , magenta , etc.
Very becoming opera cloaks are made of
the fine clothu in light shades and lined with
a wlillo fur or tlilbet. Crmlne , of course ,
ivlll be the most luxurious opera fur , al
though It Is not as becoming ns the fluffier
tlilbet.
Notwithstanding the slow progress that
the French coat ( half fitting and with n
seamless buck ) made during Its flrst ap
pearance , it has come to be moro generally
favored than the ultra-English covert coat.
Pansy velvet sleeves are on dresses of
fAwn-cotorcd and mtcflonctto-KTCon clO %
some of these elegant wool fabric * bclne rX'p
fornted with silk underskirts or lining * ,
the ehado ot the velvet sleeves showing
through the fancy cut-work.
Tangerine , lemon topazc , tnalie , amber anil
bronio are nmon * the new shades.
A new autumn basque I hat la graceful and
not at all masculine-looking hnn fiat postilion
backs * falllnc about flvo-clghltm of a yard on
Iho skirt , while the front Is In open Klon
shapA , finished with a double-breasted vofU
The foolish fashion of draping ovcry plo *
turo , chair , piece ot statuary , table and
shelf with rome wondrous piece of fancy
work Is over with , and notv ono noldom Peei
drapery except on shelves or at the windows
and doors.
For the street for the first cold Otya ot
the season are charmingllttlo collets of seal ,
otter " , or molrcd astrakhan fur , called tlio
"Duchess of York pelerines. " They have a
high collar and am lined with shot silk In
gay color-blciidlngs ,
I'l-inlnliio Notes.
Now York women have organized In oppo
sition to Tom many.
In Great Britain women vole for all oloc-
tlvo officers except members of Parliament.
Miss Ellleti Terry confesses to
sx now ac-
: ompllshment the power of turning pale at
H\\\ \ \ \ ,
Rosa nonhcur , although 70 years old , has
recently taken up photography with enthusi
asm.
asm.Tho
The physician In charge of the Woman's
hospital In See Chow , China , is Dr. Anne
Walter , a Mississippi woman.
William Morris , the UnglMi poet , says any
woman can learn mathematics , but it takes
lots of skill to niaimgo a house well.
Mrs. Francis Hodgson llurnctt Is laconic
ally described In an article on women
writers as "tho mother of two eons and
twenty-two novels. "
The countries of the world where women
already have some suffrage have an area of
over 18,009.000 square miles and their popula
tion Is over 350,000.000.
Mlsi Margaret Tupper , a sister of the
once famoiia Martin Tupper , died suddenly
In London the other day of heart disease.
She was an artist of some repute , nnd was
C ( ! years old.
Ladles' chalets are to be a new feature In
London. They will provide at various points
of the metropolis in llttlo cottage buildings
the advantages of a lady's waiting room in
conjunction with a millinery shop.
The grave ot Kvc , which tradition places
In a cemetery outstdo of the walls of Jrddah ,
la visited annually by over 40,000 pilgrims' .
The tomb Is CO cubits long and 12 wide.
The Arabs believe thnt Mother E\o was the
tallest woman that ever lived ,
Tha mother of Abdul-Aziz , the new youth
ful sultan of Morocco , bids fair to have at
much influence as the empress of China.
She Is a woman of great talent and Infinlto
tact and her son is said to consult her be
fore taking any political slop.
About two years ngo Mrs. Theodore A.
Havemeycr had her portrait painted. She Jt
were for the '
event a magnificent whlto and
gold toilet , which she had made for a grand
ball. Wlillo not strictly a beautiful woman ,
Mrs. Havemeycr lias rather a distinguished
air , and looks qulto the grande dame.
Of the 155 women studying medicine In
Paris only sixteen are natives of France.
From Russia there nro twice this numbei
and flvo are from the United States. Of
the 1CI women attending the school of belles-
lettres 141 are French women and two are
Americans' ' .
If the possession of almost nn Indefinite
number of homes can nmko a woman happy ,
Mrs. Seward Webb should bo that Individual.
Besides her Fifth avenue mansion , her huntIng -
Ing box in the Adirondack and her Shel-
burno Farms castle , still another house ,
with all the magnificence of the other thrci
nnd moreIs being built.
As a memorial to the late Miss C. M.
Tucker ( "A. L 0 K. " ) , the Christian Litera
ture society of India tins determined to raise
a special fund of .100 to rcpubllsh hci
eighty-seven works for Indian readers and to
translate them Into a much larger number 1
of languages of India , with Illustrations.
The Queen of Beauty's Secret.
Excelsior
Complexion Remedies
WEnt ! AWARDED
World's Fair Medal and Diploma.
Plm-nlns thojr nuperloiUy oxer all oilier do
mestic or foreign , remedies.
MMI1 YA1.R Is the Creator ot Dcauty Cul
ture. JiidorenJ Jjy cung < ! <
BIME YAI.U , wliw Is acknowledged lo be the
limit IxMutirul woman lUlnif. utlll continues to
grow more lirautlful every any. AKO ilocs not
seem lo affect her marvelous bcautj. Her se
cret lies In lliff tiso of her own wonderful rem
edies. They comlilno within their coirnxwltlon
every Insredlent lacking In the human llesli to
ti\n It the desired youthful appearance. An/
w man ran make licrself Just u fair urn ! lovely
mi her heart duslrpH If she will line these reme
dies according to llielr directions. They con-
Bin no Injurious Increment , absolutely fc-uaran-
.red to bo all that la claimed ( or them.
QUIDEX TO BEXAUTY.
_ _ , _ _ _ - - * |
Pimples ' , Black Heads , and Skin Diseases cured
with Mme. Talc's Speolal Lotion No. 1 and
Special Ointment No. 2 , guaranteed price ,
11,00 each. Ilcflnes coarse pores , Uerps ( he Bkln smooth
and lovely. Price 11.00.
Excelsior skin Food.
Guaranteed to remove wrinkles and every
Iraco of aee. Price ftCO and 3.W.
Makes thn hands ft. Illy whlto
no nnd beauti
ixceisior complexion Bieacn. ful. Price ll.ua.
Guaranteed to remove Bnllowness. moth
pitches and all el < ln blemishes. Qlvcs s. urn end m Exiracior
natural complexion of marvclnua beauty.
Price J2.00 per bottle ; 13.00 for 3 bottles. Heinovo nnd destroys forever molei nl
warts. Trie * 13 W.
Excelsior noir lot.
. [ ye-losd nd Eye-Brow Grow
Turns gray hair back to its own natural
color without dye. The first nnd only rem
edy In the history of chemistry Unown lo da Makes tlio loalies grow thick and long , thi
this film's ' hair fnlllnff In from ! 4 hours teen eye-brows luxuriant and pli.ipely. strenctti-
on week : creates a luxuriant growth. I'rlca o/ia and benutlflca the e > cs ; suarantced pure.
Jl.OO per bottle ; ale for fS.OO. Price 1100.
xcew BUSI food. Elixir 01 Beauty
Oimrante to develope a beautiful buit nnd
neck , Blves tlrmness to the llesh nnd creates Cultivates natural rosy cheeks , -wonderful
a natural condition of plumpness. 1'rlce J1.60 skin tonic. Price 11.00 per bottle.
and 00.
13
time , M. role's ixceislor reiizer
Great scon !
Cures constipation. Trice )1CO.
Mme. Yale's wonderful remedy for reraoylne
and deslroylns tha Ki-owth of scpcrfl..us . Imlr
but nv minutes to use : does not hurt , Excelsior Blood ionic
Purifies llvs blood , nets on the liver. Utilnexi
and builds up the system. Price ll.M pel
FrecKio oed wes. buttle ; nix /or JS.W.
Mme. if. Yale's wonderful La rrcckln Is
known to bo Hi * only cure for freckles. In
from 3 days to one wftek after Us llrst application -
plication every frrckU will disappear and Mme. . M. Yale's wonderful curs tor all klndl
Iho complexion bcom as clear as cr > stal. of female weakness , I'rleo H.OO per bottlel
Price 11.00 per bottle , six ( or I5.00.
BY 3 1 T CC f ' . .
Full line carried by Kuhn & Co. , 18th anil Douglas strncts , Merchant \lckoci , 10th
ana Howard IClnsler DrCeT Co. , 10th nii Farnam , W. J. Hulie ,2tti and Farnain , Qoorr ,
DavtrcluacUlS ndbyaUdruKBlsts. At wholesale by B. K. lirticc & Oo , Bad
Uichardson Drug Company , Omaha.
Mall orders nnd corresjionQonco may bo sent to Mme Yulo's headquarter ! , , „
All flrst class drufKlit * neil Mine. Tula1 * remedies.
. M.
TEMPLE OF BEAUTY
,
TRYA
HXACTSTllE MERCANTILE IS TUB FAVORITE CENT CrfiRFEC'W
tn\o \ by all First Class Denlora Mnnufuuturml by ino
F. U. JtlCE .MERCANTILE CIOA.K CO , ,
Victory No 301 , SU Louis ,