u
THK OAT A II A D A1T , Y R E F SUNDAY AI JOUST . 1R04. n
WWIPET OF DAME CRUNDY
Child Life Said lo Bo Happier Among the
Orientals than in Christian Lands ,
CRUELTIES PRACTICED BV SOME MOTHERS
{ fifth Arenno Hath Ro tniVorJi for
Woinan'i Kar SnobblihncM In Rdoca.
tlon IJccomlnc Apparrlit I'rcBtlge
ot American Women Abroad.
Why la 11 that child lite li 10 Infinite ! } ' hap
pier In countries which we rc nccuatomed
lo regard cither ns semi-barbarous , or oven
entirely to , than In those which claim to
rank In the very variRUard of civilization ?
( This la a question that must Inevitably oc
cur to any one who has traveled In the
Orient and In Africa , and then .glances over
the distressing pages of the reports Issued
my year by the numerous societies for
the prevention ol cruelty to children which
have been organised In the United States
Hid Europe. Wanton cruelly to children
In savage races Is well nigh unknown. It
la only the most progressive and enlight
ened people , whose social system and In
tellectual development arc based upon the
teachings of Christianity , writes a New
York Tribune correspondent , wto torture
children for mete pleasure. And the higher
the degree oC civilization the more frequent
ind the greater Is the cruelty , until one la
tempted to believe that education and re
finement tend to destroy those sentiments
of parental allectlon which nature has In
stilled Into the hearts of even the brute
creation , "When , centuries before Chrlat ,
the prophet Isaiah asked : "Can a woman
forget her child ? " ho conceived It as Im
possible to use any simile of greater strength.
IJut he would certainly have found It neces-
eary to have used a more convincing paral
lel than this had he lived In the nineteenth
century cither In Europeor In the United
States.
As a foreigner , I nm unable , for obvious
reasons , to aay much of America In this
respect , but In the old world , and especially
In England , the statistics'of the various so
cieties organized for the'protection of chil
dren go to show that tlioro la a far greater
number of unnatural parents among the
rich and well born than among the poor. .
Where , however , these unnatural parents
happen to belong to the higher grades o (
society , their cruelty Is In nearly every Instance -
stance characterized by an almost diabolical
delight In Inflicting pain , suffering and humil
iation upon the little ones. Everybody
will remember the case of Mrs. Montagu ,
the daughter-in-law of Lord Robert Montagu ,
and a member , therefore , of the ducal house
Of Manchester , who deliberately tortured her
child to death. And it was only the other
day that people of the same social rank
and possessed of a largo and picturesque
country scat In Cheshire were tried at tlio
Chester Assizes fop merciless cruelty toward
their two children , the ono 3 and the other
2 years old. The l.uaband , who was up to
that tlmo ono of the county magistrates ,
thrashed the Infants with the buckle end of
B strap , while his wife broke an Ivory brush
over the youngest child's head and lacerated
the other Infant's throat 'with a spoon , which
she had thrust down as far as she could push
It bccnmy of his refusal to take castor oil.
She was accustomed to tie both of the little I
ones to stakes on the lawn , where they would
to left the ntlro day In sunshine and In rain ,
" [ ten till ID o'clock at night , so as to be out
oi the way.
Ik" son n-law o * the late carl of Lon-
deaborough , too , wag jircsecnted at the
Huntingdon Assizes a low months ago for
disgraceful cruelty to his children , treatment
nil the more Inexcusable seeing that they
vrero not dependent upon him for support ,
but hod been provided for under the will
of their grandfather.
Nor is It only In England that cruelty to
Children Is shown to exist to a far more
terrible degree among1 the wealthy and cul
tivated classes than among the poor. Thus
In Italy , aswell as In1 Prance , the statistics
of the criminal courts show on Infinitely
larger number of convictions of the well-
to-do than of people belonging1 to the
humbler walks of life. M. Fcrrlanl , the
procurator of the government at Home , In
a report which ho has recently published on
the subject , cites the case of a woman bearIng -
Ing a patrician name and belonging to the
most oxcluslvo clrclo , whose greatest pleas
ure used to consist In thrusting needles into
the flesh of her little girl ; of another mother
of similar rank who delighted In putting
lighted matches up her little girl's ' nostrils ,
While In a third case the unnatural mother
used to derive her most agreeable form of
entertainment from searing the body of her
4-yoar-oltl girl with a red-hot Iron. Similar
Instances nro to bo found recorded among
the records of the-trials at the Parts tribunals
during the last two years. In Sir Donald
Mackenzie's book , "Holy Russia , " he de
scribes a well authenticated case of a Mus
covite chatelaine torturing his daughter to
death by turning her Into a human pin
cushion and piercing her bare body with
hundreds ot pins.
If any further evidence were rfdrd of the
Influence ot civilization ajx. < a the treatment
of children , It would be iV.irm ! n the very
noticeable change that has passed over the
Japanese slnc6 they have adopted western
vays. Formerly Japan used to be the para
dise of children , to whom bverythlngf and >
everybody gave way. The principal festivals
and public holidays were those organized :
tor the sake of the. little ones , and oven the
Brown people were wont to enter with enthu
siasm Into their games and amusements , jIt
was not the Mikado or the Tycoon who ruled ;
thc\ people of Dal Nippon , but Boya San ,
which may bo interpreted. Into English as
"Mf Lord Baby. " In those good old days
and they were still In existence' fifteen or
twenty years ago cruelty to children was
punishableby death ; and while It Is per
fectly true that I never heard of any ono
suffering- this penalty , yet I never during my
earlier stays In Japan saw n child mis
treated , Now , however , with the Invasion aot
western civilization , Japan Sa far less ot ota
baby Eden than In bygone days. The chil
dren's festivals are losing- their Importance
and are fewer In number , the foundations ot
Boya Bon's throne are shaken , and the face
of the liny Jap are no longer as beaming with
fun , merriment and contentment as when thI
first went there. It Is all the effect of west
ern civilization , ami I suppose that In due
course we shall learn that It has become
necessary to organize at Toklo a society tor
the prevention ot cruelty to children , on the
same lines of those In London , Paris and
other European capitals.
Any observant American tourist In Egypt
will bear witness to the singularly happy
faces of the pot-bellied , and as a rule , naked
llttlo Fellah boys. The children show so
well by their ways and manners lhat their
IIfo Is entirely free from care , and that their )
fathers and mothers , Impoverished though
theyraro U , a degree of which people In
Europe and America , have no conception ,
have other things to do than devise hellish
forms of torture and humiliation for their
llttlo ones. You may travel all the way from >
Fort Bald to Yokohama , and from the west !
coast of Africa around the capo lo Aden ,
touching at the various ports , without once
seeing one of those poor , broken spirited ,
trembling little boys and nlrls that one so
frequently meets In civilized countries.
Cases of sulcldo among children , now alarm
ingly frequent In Germany , England and
France , are as yet unknown among the na
tions which we are accustorrcd to regard ia48
uncivilized and as In need of our missionary
euecorL
Just Imaclne what must have been the
workings of the mind of a child who Is led
by the physical and moral sufferings to take
Its own life ] Anfl these moral Bufferings are
oftentimes more poignant and acute than the
physical tortures above described. Nor Is
there any remedy that can be devised by the
Btato for the latter. For whereas , it Is
within the power of the state to punish
cruelty In the shape of physical torture In-
flicted upon children , yet how can one pos-
tlbly bring within the ban of the law parents
guilty of moral tortures , which ends by
crushing the human spirit at the time when
It should be at Its happiest and at Its bright
est !
In the half dozen palaces now nearlng com
pletion on Fifth avenue In this city , says
the New York Times , the bathroom Is , In
every case , a bit ot fairy Ingenuity. There
Is nothing : to break the perfect harmony of
color , for light and air seem to be supreme
jbjecu Uepi la view by , builders. Us jht
colon Universally employed In tha deco
rations , and the room llsell li placed whore
outside light and air atrram through finely
cl.lselet ] 6la * or delicately-tinted cathedral
windows. There are no middle , dark , un-
wliolesomti , etufty rooms In these houses ,
much less I ; the bath placed In them If
tl.crij happen ! ( c be such n spot. H la used
tot a linen closet yr some other purpose
tli n plumbing fixtures. v
Perhaps the most pfifcct outfit of any ot
these modern IJOUECS. IB found In the new
VdlulerblU house , vihcre e-ach bathroom coat
pot Uls than fS.QOO. There every ne-w
feature In plumblnfc 15 brousit to bear , as
well 09 sostjlntss ot mplerlal.
Cornelius Van < Tcrbll | has In his own bath
room ft porcelain tub , a liccdte and shower
bath , douche bath , and sltz bath. In the
Iluntlngton house nothing leas exists , fo
far na comfort goes , and the difference In
the two lies In minor detail of color and
material. Mrs. Henry Clews has white
onyx In her bathroom , while In the house
of n fashionable leader of society every de
tail la pink , while crystal and silver con-
trlbuto an exquisite effect. The room la
12xlG feet , having an Inlaid floor of deli
cately-colored stones forming arabesque de
signs In the center , with plain whlto marker
chips running to tha walls. A pink tilled
walnscoatlng meets the enameled paper of
the same- tint , which la finished with on
exquisite gilt \vhlte-cornlce and mold-
Ing1. Ono bread window has pink and
whlto stained glass , so beautifully wrought
as to defy description. A pink onyx mantfl
frames a little open Ore grate with brass fit
tings. A mirror framed In whlto onyx
stands on the mantel , while the same kind ,
but larger , covers the wall back of the wash
basin. Pink nny.t also forms the slab ot
the basin. .A door leading to a closet has
a mirror Its whole length , as also does the
door leading to the bedroom.
A aupcrb porcelain tub Is supported by
four exquisitely-carved marble blocks , show
ing the lotus leaf , and a sltz bath Is much
like It. In a corner stands a needle bath
foimed ot a slack of Bllver-plated pipes on
three sides of 'a square. These are Inclosed
In onyx slabs , nnd a rubber curtain hangs
at one aide to protect the room from the
"spouting spray" when turned on by a
touch of the bather. Elegant silver-plated
faucets ornament the tub and basin In the
designs of a swan. Silver toilet articles
stand upon a delicate llttlo Louis Qulnza
table In whlto nnd gilt. One chair and just
ona whlto rug , made especially for this
purpose , complete the furnishings of a
superb bathroom.
When young New Englanders In the early
days of the colony wished to enter the state
ot matrimony , they did not And it any too
easy work , writes Alice Morse Earle In an
nrtlclo on "Courtship and Marriage In Purl-
tan Days" In the August Lidles' Home Jour
nal. In the first place , no young man could
"make a promise of marriage" to any young
woman whose fair face , or deft fingers , or
sweet disposition had attracted his fancy or
his affections , without first obtaining the con
sent of the fair one's father or guardian to
thus address tier. Ho was liable to arrest ,
fine or Imprisonment If he spoke to her Hrst
and thus "Inveigled her affections. " Many
a bold and headstrong swain was punished
for that natural offense In early days , and I
doubt not many another slyly Inveigled , un
punished nnd undiscovered , In order to ( Ind
out from her own lips , the state of affection
borne toward htm. by the one he loved. It
must have been somewhat of a damper on
love making to have to make such a formal
beginning , but there was no lack of mar
riages. Indeed , single persons were much
scnrned In the Puritan community. "Ancient
maids" were few , and much to bo pitied.
Bachelors were looked upon with disfavor ,
were not allowed to live alone , and Eome-
times had to pay a weekly fine to the town
as long as they remained single. With all
these penalties It was plain that all would
seek to marry early In life.
There arc few sorrows that a salad can- ,
not solace , and the woes are not many which
will not vanish , at least temporarily , before a
carefully chosen desert. The "food euro" Is
the best In the world for moods.
Every one observes that men retain their
youth much longer than women , says the
New York World. At 50 men are erect ,
active gray haired , lo be sure , but fresh-
colored nnd bright-eyed. At BO women arc
gray haired , dull-eyed , wrinkled and color
less. Why Is the difference ? Because for
twenty-five years or BO men have been eat
ing good , substantial epicurean luncheons In
Hie society of their fellow-men down town ,
while women have been having toast and tea
and cold sliced meat with the children at
home. It la no base , material doctrine to
preach , that of the Intimate connection be
tween good food on the ono hand and good
temper nnd good looks on the other. Even
the apostle of temperance In all directions.
Miss Wlllard , comes home from beef-loving
England and chants the praise ot five good
meals a day.
Have you a fK of bad temper ? Eat your
luncheon In chetrful society , and make It a
delicious one with a bit of crisp lettuce , a
taste of cheese , EO.TIO toasted crackers and a
cup of black coffee. You will leave the table
at peace with all the world , The jostling crowd
which you longed to throttle before eating
will arouse only emotions of good natured
Interest now. Arc you dei-'rrssed ? . Dine well
and the world will bear a rcsy aspect afterv
dinner. Forswear , once and lorever , the I
feminine ascetic notion which has prevailed I
through the centuries , and you will be a '
healthier , happier mortal than you ever have
been before.
Only remember that to dlno well means
to dine with daintiness , not to overeat , and
that luncheons to be truly successful must
have true regard for hygiene. Suppers may
not bo a cure for unrequited love and lun
cheons may not minister to a mind diseased ,
but for the "trifling" worries that sap away
vitality there Is no remedy so potent as well
chosen food.
Romance was eclipsed by reality In the case
recently heard by the Judges of the second
civil chamber , says , the London Telegraph.
A Mile. Maquet put In a claim for 6,000 ,
the amount cf a legacy bequeathed her by >
M. Poncault , who recently died In America.
Poncault's career was a strange one. Thirty. .
years ago he was a simple , shoeblack on the '
quays of Havre. Disgusted with his hum
ble and Ill-paid calling he went on board Ha Ha
ship bound for South America and hid him
self as a stowaway. When well an the
Atlantic ho was. discovered and pulled out of
his hole by order of the captain. Luckily for
himself ho was able to make himself useful
as a roustabout , and no proceedings re
taken against him when the ship arrived In
Once on transatlantic soil , Poncault , who
had embarked at Havre without a penny
in his pocket , set to work with a will. Ho
was everything by turns and nothing long.
He roughed It for some time , and was lust
ta his friends In France until a few years
since , when he returned home a wealthy
man. Ho died leaving a solid fortune ot
fi.000,000 francs , or 200.000.
Of this sum he bequeathed 6,000 to Mile.
Maquet , but she was only to receive It on
the day of her marriage. Mile. Maquet ,
however , does not appear to bu In a hurry
to take a husband , for she asked the court
to allow her to receive the money as a single
woman , The Judges were Inexorable , and
pointed grimly to the clause of M. Poncault'a
will In which the marriage proviso wsa t'an
serted. The applicant will accordingly ve
to look out for a husband If she wants to
benefit by the bequest of the cr-shoeblack.
"Snobbishness In education IB becoming a
very apparent evil In New York , " said a
"nobly planned" matron to a New York
Tribune reporter. The lady , although rka
finished woman cf the world , had sufficient
discrimination and srlf respect to separate
the chuff from the wheat , and who did not
propose to hive the simple , childlike mind
of her young- daughter vulgarized by this
most obnoxious of fashionable vices. "This
formation ot classes c.i a social basts I con
sider most objectionable , " she went iner .
"Fancy giving the charge ot your daughter ,
Intellectually , if not morally , to a man or
woman who chooes his or her classes no
toriously only from among the smartest
set , No system of teaching : , however
closer , could reconcile me to such n false
basil for education. It would be like making
ropes of sand. Do I not believe In the
power of association ? Assuredly I do. and
I am most desirous that my children should
bi only with those whose 'borne culture Is aidof
the best. It this found only In the smart
set , think you ? I trow not. And It Is
the snobbishness of these classes that I ob
ject to , the vulgar , pushing , striving snob-
blshnesi of some of the fashionable teachers
of the day , who must necessarily contaml-
nite , inoro or less , the children under their
charge. And now that private classes have
become R favorite method of education , I
think the parents should more carefully con
sider this tendency is a very cerlous ob-
jection , "
Xb lltcrur pitfall lj , jerhajM , th moit I
amuttng of all the trap * Into which unwary
feet lead themselves , sayi the New York
World. In the curious sorting up of so
journing summer households Its development
Is frequent.
At a Maine mountain house , tor example ,
aru staying q well known Now York man
ot letters one } other person * . On.8 of the
Utter , a woman , Is booklih , If not Wise.
And the society of authors Is dear to her.
"Come here , Mr. L. , " she said the other
day , addressing the writer referred to , and
In her calm confidence of literary comradcrle
she did- not care who heard. "D3 como
I hcrp and tell mo your Impressions of
1 'Ships that Pass In the Nght. ' It Is a
most qrhnzlng Utld to , Win with. Why.
there Isn't ' a Word in U about a ship or
even the slightest reference to the sea. "
And up In n llttla New England XiJlafo
there Is a circulating library which courte
ously offers Its privileges to strangers within
the gates ot the town. One such strolled
Into the room on Its only open day ot the
week lately , admiring the reading Instinct
which made the library possible In so smnll
a settlement. A dignified looking woman ,
ono of the magnates of the village , sat In
an arm chair looking over the catalogue to
help a friend's selection.
"Here Is 'The Autocrat of the Breakfast
Table , ' by Holmes , " she commented easily.
"I've never read this particular one of her
works , but everything that Mary J. Holmes
writes Is good , "
This In Massachusetts , In a town from
whoso high neighboring hlllttp , on a clear
day , Doston harbor can be spent
"A Gypsy camp and fancy fair" Is n com
bination title which explains Itself and < le-
scr'bcs a recent suburban entertainment.
H was held , of course , In the open air ; a
lovely wooded lawn affording an appropriate
setting , and the pretty women attendants
looked their prettiest In their gypsy dress.
Gay plaid skirts , white blouses , red or yl-
low sashes , nnd bright handkerchiefs knotted
on the head were frequent costumes. A
wltchea' kettle was the lemonade stall , there
was a grotto for the refreshment tables , a
fortune teller's tent , of course , and a cafe
chantant. The scheme works Itsslf out In
various ways , Is easy to develop , and Is both
timely and"novel. . ,
An Item found In an unidentified English
clipping gives women smokera the advantage
at least of aristocratic examples. "The '
empress ot Austria smokes thirty to forty
Turkish cigarettes every day. On her writIng -
Ing table there Is a sllvsr box with fine re
lief work , filled with cigarettes , and a gold
aslt tray. The czarina , also yields to the
passion for nicotine , but she only smokes In
her boudoir. Her anxieties may plead her
excuse ; but Qucn Marguerite of Italy , whoso
Ufa Is freer from care , smokes also , and
smokes much , but always in solitude. The
queen regent of Spain consumes Egyptian
cigarettes In largo quantities ; cx-Qucen
Natalie of Servla has a great store at ciga
rettes of every kind ; the queen of Ko'jmanla '
carrl&s a llttlo golden box filled with the
same means of delight , while the comtcsse
do Paris appreciates only the tobacco of
Havana , and her daughter , the queen of
Portugal , gets her cigarettes from Dresden.
American women abroad keep up their
brilliant social prestige , A bevy of them
graced < a late very smart English ball , that
was given by Lady Londonderry on the
debut of her daughter. Royalty was present
IrV the persons ot the prlnco and princess of
Wales and their daughters , and royalty by
marrlago In the duchess of Teck. Of the
Americans the dowager duchess of Marlborough -
ough , formerly Mrs. Hammersly , was as
lovely as ever In a black satin flounced with
fine black ehantllly , and embroidered with
Jet. j Mrs. Henry White of the legation was
Irb pray satin , on which butterflies were em
broidered in sliver thread. Her diamonds
were described as "remarkable" even In that
assembly. The duchess of Manchester's gown
was of hyacinth satin , beautifully trimmed
with silver spangled chiffon. A crown of
diamonds resting on her coiffure , and her
necklace and other ornaments were ot the
same : stones. Hon. Mrs. Carlngton , another
green A and mauve and fine diamonds , and Mrs.
Ronalds wore white brocade and a coronet of
diamond stars. Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain
wore an exquisite gown of forget-me-mot blue
satin ; , the skirt overlaid with crystal cm-
broidery. Mrs. Arthur Pagct looked exceed
ingly pretty In black satin , with bertha and
sleeves of jet sequlned chiffon and magnifi
cent diamonds.
Byway of a London paper , It Is learned
that on American woman has lately received
what must be termed the most original of
wedding presents. It Is a musical dinner
service , of which each plate begins to play a
tune when put upon the table. The soup
plates are accredited with marches as suit
ing the temper of the guest at that moment
of solemnity , but as dinner progresses and
wine and courses do their enlivening work ,
the harmonics brighten accordingly , till at
dessert the cavers are ringing out the mad
dest of polkas and galops.
Don't lean the face against marble or Iron
when ? vsrhcated. The Philadelphia Press
tells of a young woman who , after drinking
a cup of hot coffee , sat down by an open
window and rested her face against the cool
stone casing. Grateful as It felt then , she
repented her act the next day , when she was
attacked by a facial paralysis that drew her
features a little at one side , noticeably the
eyelids ft and mouth. The physician who
treated her said It was not an uncommon
affection , and was apt to be encountered
oftenost In the summer months , when per
sons are most careless In protecting them
selves against sudden changes of temperature- .
An exchange tells about a form ot enter
tainment popular for charitable purposes In
Now Englaml. This Is an "Old Maid's Auc
tion. " A number of the prettiest young- la
dles nro dreisod In quaint spinster style and
auctioned off. With a witty auctioneer there
is a chance for much sport. An aristocratic
church In Pawtucket , H. I. , Is one. of the
pioneers In these affairs , which have , how
ever , been duplicated elsewhere. The high
est price paid at one party was $1.50 for a
very popular "spinster. " At another church
girls went as cheap as 10 cents ,
I'nslilim Notf .
The toques , which seem almost perennial
In their popularity , are very pretty and be
coming.
.
Ringlets , real old-fashioned ringlets , are
said to bo a feature (7) ( ) of coming coiffures. '
Autumn models make an equally scant
display. The pointed shawl ovcrsklrt Is
mostly seen. Isd
"Burnt straw" hats and bonnets trimmed ;
with black are very fashionable this sum-
me/ .
meTer
Tor afternoon as well as evening wear
point d'esprlt net , white or ecru over
sur h or batiste , Is a very popular style of
dress. aty
Long walttcd slender women look very
well In the new cross-over blouses that tie
at the side or In tha back , aa is found most
becoming.
The newest crepons worn ore mostly shot ' ,
and many are showered with silken spots
to match one or the other at the component
tints.
Tha best dressmakers nnd tailors say that
a dress , as well as a coat , should bo fas
tened from the bottom up , not from the
top down.
Four deep tucks In the upper part of the
sleeves have a very good effect , as they
stand out like ruffles and give stiffness to
the material.
Many of the serge dresses are being
trimmed with perforated cloth , cut out In
rich patterns like lice , which Is applied to
collars , cuffs and revers cf. dresses.
English tailors have sent over some
models for autumn Jackets that are double-
breasted and straight In front , with backs
flaring only moderately below the waist.
Handsome novelties In silk and wool and ' i
In fine all wool are already Imported. Those
with quaint designs , creped and r'rlped la
a contrasting color , will And great favor. lah
The tailor made gowns are still aa fash
ionable as ever , but are smartened up very
much by long waistcoats ot brocade , with
ohlne flowers on llk , which relieve them ;
ot their farmer severe plainness.
"Hammock" dresses and other eaay gowns
for the sultry cummer daya are rnide of
orcpon ot light ground strewn with flowers ,
and of batlsto and flower dotted , Swiss mus
lin , and soft undressed mulls.
The home dressmaker will take a hint :
from the late alecve models. The enor
mously wide and topheavy "leg o' mutton"
| s rapidly giving way ; the rogue of a full
eleeve hn a strong hold.
"Wide lace-edged cravats of tulle tied in a
largo bow under the chin are worn with
tulle-trimmed tats ol Leghorn or openwork
Uc straw , They siWjan. airy and terjr t/e-
comlng finish to a at/miner toilet.
China , linen Is a nwTabrlc usrd In making
up fine * underwear. It > K especially suited for
summer wear. hivlntfj JH addition to Its web-
like flnencis ot weave , n'sort of cool sllppcrl-
ncw to the touch tJwtl , Inviting In warm
weather. } ] . *
, ,
Therl la a new dau lp-tklrted dress which
by como of these wfto have seen It Is better
liked than the longer'Sjngte oversklrt caught
up on ono side. The- edges of both skirts of
the tunle model are trlttitncd , and the walat
la in gracefully fold d turpllco form.
Draperies arc talked about , but- are not yet
put on. The return fa' v rsklrts Is something
Ilka the crinoline scare"1' ot two years ago.
They were loudly heralded last spring , but
they are nc > t Jji pvl ntcr to any great extent
In summer Vardrobesi '
It Is to lie regretted 'that ' French and Eng
lish ladies' tailors arc conceding to the taste
for beaded , spangled and Jeweled galleons
nnd other terms of fancy decoration. New
models show a lavish use of these garnitures
on tailor gowns of cheviot , ladles' cloth and
Venetian cloth.
Miss Trances E. Wlllard Is the third woman
to have the right lo wrlto doctor of laws after
her name. Maria Mitchell , the astronomer ,
and Amelia D. Edwards , the Egyptologist ,
were the others.
A national Dress association has been
formed In New Zealand. Its object Is to be
"the bringing about ot that change In
woman's dress which her wider life and Increased -
creased activity seemed to demand. "
"Whistling for half an hour after meals
Is , " says Mrs , Alice Shaw of whistling fame ,
"tho best possible * aid to digestion. Try it ,
weak-chested , slender-throated sisters , and
profit by my experience , " she adds.
There la not a shadow ot foundation for the
report that the duke of York was married
previous to his union with Princess May of
Teck. The report of a previous marriage was
obviously invented to cause pain and annoyance -
anco to the royal couple ,
In Syria the people never take oft their hats
or turbans when entering a house or visiting
a friend , but they always leave their shoes
at the door. There are no mats or scrapers
oulalde. and the floors Inside are covered
with ' expensive rugs , kept clean In Moslem
houses and used to kneel upon when praying ,
A cry from Montreal Is of the scarcity of
domestic servants In that Canadian city ,
In such straits are housekeepers there that
they arc suid to visit the city prisons looking
out for a possible maid among the inmates ,
nnd willing to cngaga such questionable
persons at the end of their terms ot im
prisonment.
Mrs. Ewlns sums up the matter of hy
gienic eating In a few wise words : "Dlvast
yourself of prejudice concrnlng food. Partake -
take judiciously of all articles of diet that
are In general use. Avoid a great variety
of dishes at a meal. De regular In your
eating habits. Taste nothing except at
meal tlmo. Don't cat too much. "
Women's colleges are beginning to get
the plums of gifts whose like has long been
the share of colleges for men. The recent
present of $10,000 from Mrs. Flsko of Bos
ton to Wellcsley Is to be used In building
a new cottage there. Vassar Is constantly
getting legacies and gifts. How long will
Barnard have to beg for her due ?
The diclllie of Englishmen for the knlckcr-
bccker costume adopted by women bicyclists
everywhere nnd naturally therefore In Lon
don , has almost reached the stage of legis
lation. A bill has been prepared , but not
yet presented In Parliament , prohibiting the
wearing of these garments by women In
the public streets on .o Mo ft a bicycle.
The princess of Wales'Is ' a great lover of
animals , and has so Many dogs at Sancl-
rlngham that she cannot keep count of them.
Every morning- she goes to the kennels , nnd
the dogs , let looseettf hvclcome her , are BO
wild with delight thatHhey jump upon her
BO frantically as almost'lo ' knock her down.
A special favorite if the Sandrlngham ken
nels Is Venus , who wis a pel dog ot the late
duke of Clarence. s'f
The Christian Woman's Exchange of New
Orleans encourages > an'art Interest and op ns
new. avenues of remunerative work for women
In Louisiana by offering , as it does , two
medals a gold ono and a silver one for the
best decorative des/lgn / | > ifor wall paper , tex
tile fabric , fresco -carving , pottery , book
covers , wrought IrBrl.J-stained glass , tile
floors , tlloi mantels' aYtt'embroldery and the
rest of the list. ThV' competition closes
March 1 , 1895.
AUTCBIN TINTS Ar < D TONES.
Some Itecrnt Creations In Fashionable
1Voraair Wrnr.
NEW YORK , Aug. 23. The new tones In
brown for autumn and eariy winter show a
decided tendency towai' red reflections.
Burnt flower , auburn , mahogany , rust color
and autumn leaf are the names by which
some of them , are known , autumn leaf be
ing hardly more than a dull red with bronze
shadows , which show only In folds.
Thse shades are all more effective It made
up In plain wools touched somewhere itlth
velvet In a deeper tone , but some of the
latest materials in them show checks ,
plaids and even stripes , accented with a
thread of definite red or gold ,
Along with the red browns are seen the
peculiar dull leaf shades deepened and
melting Into indistinct greens.
The old fashioned snuff brown , so be
coming to fair , high colored complexions ,
will also be much worn ; and for this shade
Persian embroidery or black Russian fur
make the handsomest trimming.
Blahop's mantle , a deep , rich violet that
suggests the time honored royal purple , Is
ono of the new tones for camel's hair and
ladles' cloth. In fantastic stuffs wrigo ,
a curious eccentric tint touching on peacock
blue , Is the latest novelty. Other new col
ors for either silk or wool are petunia gray ,
which has an atmosphere of pink , beet's
blood red , bottle blue and wallflower yel
low that Icoks as If lightly dusted with
browii.
Turquoise blue , In slight touches of vl-
vet or satin , makes en effective bodice garni
ture for dull leaf brown costumes.
When the velvet la used It Is generally
only a wide chirred cellar , rolled belt and
cuffs , but a lately imported visiting toilet
In this combination shewed an entire tlght-
IHting vest of the satin , over which fell a
loose blouse of white oriental gauze , spanghd
with turquoise.
The skirt of this costume was of deep
leaf brown velvet , untrlmmed and cut bell
shape with a full wavellke effect about the
hem In front , and the back stiffened with
haircloth to fall In straight outward lines. i
Over It hung a long two-pointed tabller or
drapery sharply V shaped back and front ot
crepe cloth In a paler leaf tint ; this was
heavily bordered w'th ' a Persian embroid
ery introducing the two leaf shades and the
turquoise stones. The round bodices of the
crepe cloth had a seamless back and huge
glgot sleeves , and coming from the right
under arm seam was a girdle scarf of the
crepe that passed under the blouse and
fastened at the left waist line In a full
chou.
To be worn with this toilet , charming In
spite of its fantastic tendency , was a short
square cape of the deep leaf velvet lined with
turquoise satin. I
Along with thla 1 costume which , by the
way. Is to be a part 'of the trousseau of an
early winter brlde-t-Was a umart Louis XIV ,
jacket of striped yellow and black satin , to
be worn with a blaek , net-trimmed ne
skirt. The full bl6nie vest ot this jacket ,
which was Intended exclusively for the
theater , was ot white moussellne desol
fastened at the throat mnd waist line with iola
long , narrow jet Ulcklo. A rich , jet bead
ing also outlined the large revers and deep
square cuffs , and It Was lined throughout
with yellow shot sllto Another exquisitely
dainty garment In this trousseau was a
Hading evening1 gotvn of stiff ashes of roses
silk and short draped sleeves of Point esd'
Alencon. . . d'X
For this same trousseau another ex- :
qutslte frock has been'prepared. It ia made
of heavy watered silk of creamy tint , hey
only garniture being a hugely big canary-
colored bow at the bottom of the
skirt , on the left side. The bodice was of
the Eame material at the skirt , made In the
Louis Trelze fashion , The corsage was hew
the shoulders sloping effect and trimmed with
a fall of point lace. About the waist was itha
belt of rich cut jet , two inches wide and
fastened at the left side with a smaller
canary-colored watered silk rlbbbon le'rw
The voluminous puffed sleeves were finished ,
at the arm with a band of the same jet as the
belt.
belt.Of
Of course the bride Is supplied with Innumerable
numerable fancy waists , of saffron satin with
huge sleeve draperies of black chiffon and
black undersleeves Bparkllne with , jet em
broidery. 1
NINA FITCH. '
THE BATTLE OF MOBILE BAY
Recollections of the Event by Ona of the
Leading Participants.
VIEWED FROM THE TURRET OF A MONITOR
Admiral Steven ' Hot-lew of Ono of the
1'ainoiM Nurnl Cunt cits of the llcbol-
lloii Tlirro Hours of flcrco
rifilitl.iff. .
( CopyrlKht , 1801 , by 8. S. McCluri- . ) )
It Is very probable that Admiral Stevens on
the night previous to the battle of Mobile
Hay looked forward to the doubtful result
with considerably more equanimity than ho
did to the day on which he had promised to
tell mo for publication { ha story ot the _
famous fight , !
For , while old warriors enjoy among themselves - I
selves Ilia ra-flghllng ot past battles , the |
majority of them he.sltato from admitting
the public nt large to their confidence , nnd
the admiral was no exception to the rule.
By dint of perseverance , however , I at
tained my point , and the- admiral consented
to tell how the battle was fought and won.
On the day appointed I called at his homo '
In Washington It Is but a stone's throw
from lu ) Pont Circle , where the sculptured
figure of his former commander , Admiral'
Du I'ont , stands a solitary watch and found
the admiral pacing up and down his library
with the slow , measured tread of the quarter
deck.
One to have looked at the man. who greeted
mo would have found It hard to realize that
he had not only seen forty-five years of active
service In the navy , but had been for the last
twelve years on the retired list as well , for
his step was as firm and his eyes were as
bright as though ho had but Just come into
his first command.
"You see the decks are cleared for action , "
ho laughed , motioning me to a seat , "and I
place myself under your orders. What shall
It be first. "
"First , " I replied , "tell me about the two
opposing forces , and the defenses of the
monitors , ona of the latter , the doublc-tur-
reted monitor , Wlnnebago , being my com
mand. The confederate squadron under Ad
miral Buchanan was com posed of the ram
Tennessee , the most powerful Ironclad of
the confederacy , and three gunboats. This
squadron lay Inside of the bay , and 10 reach
them wo had to pass up a narrow channel ,
the entrance to which was salted with tor
pedoes , while on either side stood confederate
works Fort Morgan on our starboard side
and Fort Galnes on our port. A narrow pas
sage not over 100 yards wide under the
guns of Fort Morgan had been left unob
structed by piles and torpedoes for the use of
blockade runners , and through this passage
Admiral Farragut Intended to take his
fleet. "
"The battle took place In the morning , did
It not ? "
"Yes , on the- early morning of August B.
At 5:30 : the signal came for getting under
way from the flag ship , and the fleet steamed
away from Its anchorage , slowly toward the
distant forts. As they proceeded , the ships
took up their assigned positions , and while
the order of battle was being established the
crews went lo quarters and cleared for
action.
THE ORDER OF BATTLE.
"The order of battle was well defined ; the
wooden ships were lashed together In
couples , and advanced in column. The Brook
lyn and Octorara led , wUh Fjrragu''s flag Ehlp
the Hartford , and her mate , the Metacomet ,
following.
"The four Ironclads In .single file steamed
abreast of the leaders , on the starboard side.
so standing between tli ? Icct and Fort Mor
gan , the monitors being so low In the water
as to enable the wooden ships to flre above
them.
"A little after G o'clock the national colors
were hoisted at the mastheads of the wooden
vessels and displayed upon different parts of
the monitors ; at th same time the first two
shots ot the battle were flrcd by the leader
of the monitors , the Tecumseh , at Fort Mor
gan. These were not followed up , however ,
as a slight delay occurred , caused by our
straightening nut the line of battle.
"This being accomplished about 7 a. m. , the
fleet steamed ahead once more , and ten
minutes later Fort Morgan opened flre on
the Brooklyn. The Brooklyn Immediately
replied with her bow rifle , and at once as the
other vessels got within range , the action be
came general along the line between the
tort , the monitors ( with the exception of th
Tecumseh ) and the fleet. The wooden ves
sel3 In approaching- used only their bow
guns , reserving their broadsides until abreast
of the fort.
"As the leading vessels of the two columns
came abreast of the fort , the Energy's gun
boats steamed out from behind Fort Morgan ,
and forming In line across the channel , just
before us , delivered a raking and telling flre
upon the fleet.
ABREAST THE ENEMY'S WORKS.
were abreast the works and by their heavy
broadsides kept the enemy's flre down so
that the latter did but little harm. At this
period , becoming uneasy lest my pilot should
take the Wlnnebaga too close to the sand
point running out from Fort Morgan , I
walked from the after to the forward tur
ret of the vessel to direct him to give the
point a little wider berth during the war
I always fought my monitors from the deck
Instead of from the toner , as I found It
more convenient as I walked forward I
saw the Tecumseh In the lead followed by
the Manhattan ( both were monitors ) about
160 yards astern of her , the Wlnnebago be
ing about -the same distance astern of the
Manhattan. In the smoke of the battle
thla was about the limit of tha vision. Pos
sibly I may have been five minutes in conver
sation with the pilot , by which time wo were
abreast of Fort Morgan , into which we were
pouring grape and cannlstcr ; wo were so
near the fort that at Intervals , above the
roar of the battle wo could hear distinctly
the officers In the tort directing the flio of
the batteries.
THE TECUMSEH GOES DOWN.
"I had turned to leave the pilot , intending
to go to the after turret , but when midway .
between the two I halted , startled by a
scries of loud clieera and yells , coming ap
parently from all directions. Looking for '
ward to discover the cause , I saw to my
consternation the Tecumseh going down bow
foremost with her propeller revolving rapIdly -
Idly In the air. Therebels' torpedoes had
done their work too well. You know the
fate of her gallant commander , Craven ; how ,
when ho and the pilot , after the torpedo
exploded , made Instinctively for the narrow
opening leading from the turret , and how
Craven drew back and said , 'After you , pilot. '
The pilot was saved , but Craven , with the
rest of his crew , with the exception of about
twenty , went down with the Tecumseh.
"For r moment I was stunned by the
appalling disaster. The wooden ships which
but now were belching forth broadsides of
destructlve > missies gave forth but a feeble
fire , while I ho sudden Increase ot the vigor
ous and pitiless flre from the fort , the Ten-
nesBoo and rebel gunboats told of our con
fusion and the advantage gained by the en-
erny ,
THE FLEET ALL TANGLED UP.
"Lcoklne aloft from the deck of the Wln
nebago while the hulls of our ships were
obscured by the smoke ot the battle , roI
could see by the flags flying from the differ
ent vessels the confusion In the order TOt
the fleet , which seemed to be all tangled
up. The leader of the column , the Brook
lyn , with her consort stopped and then be
gan to back ; this move put the other ves
sels out ot line and threw some ot their
bows toward the fort , which raked them
severely ; the guns of the wooden vessels ,
by their position , were rendered mainly
useless , and the monitors almost alone kept
up ths flrr. During this trying- moment
the survivors of the unfortunate Tecumseh
had not been neglected. A. boat from the
Metacomet had gone to the spot where the
Tecumseh had sunk and bad picked up the
pilot ind the remainder of the crew. These
were brought on board of my vessel and at
once taken below to the sick bay , where
their Injuries trere looked after.
"Farrugut'B great genius { or was DOW
came to his aid and enabled him InsUntlr
to frraiip the situation and apply the rem
edy , thus preventing what would have been
otherwise n most complete and crushing
disaster. From Ma position In the Hart
ford's rigging he hailed to know what wns
the matter , and received the -reply - :
'TORPEDOKS AHEAD. '
"Another man might have fauUorcd at the
prob'em which now confronted him not BO
with Farragut. Without hesitation ho RHVO
the order to the commanding Ofllcers ot the
Hartford : and Melacomct. which were Itsheil
together , to go ahead at full speed , nnd at
the same time made signal for close order.
" <
"The Hartford dashing to the front , the
line -was straightened out , and the other
vessels swinging Jnto close order had the
effect of restoring the line ot battle order
grew out of chaos , men sprang to their
stations with renewed vigor , the roar ot the
guns sounded anew from the union fleet as It
swept over the line ot torpedoes
tomli meet now foes In the for
midable ram Tennessee and the supportlnR
vessels of the confederates , which lay In
line : across the channel ami which poured
In n rnklng flre upon the approaching union
fleet.
"Our ships crossed In safely the line of
torpedoes , but as they crossed the torpedo
cases were hoard knocking against the bet
toll of some of the ships and the primers
snapping , but none ot the lor-ptdoes them
selves exploded ,
THE ENEMY'S GUNBOATS DISPOSED OF.
"When Fnrragut with the wooden vessels
hnd reached a point which enabled him to
bring their broadslOcs to bear upon the
enemy's < gunboats , the latter were quickly
disposed of. It wns at this tlmo that the
dashing and gallant Jouett , casting off his
command , the Metacomet from the Hart
ford , made after the Sclmn , whose lire had
been particularly destructive In Its effects
upon the Hartford and other wooden vessels ,
and itler a spirited chauo- and protracted
defense , mails a rapture ) of her.
"During this time the Ironclads steamed
up the bay , having remained behind to keep
dawn the raking flre of the port and waUr
battery on the port column us It moved up
the bay our orders were to remain behind
until the last wooden vessel , the Oneldn ,
my previous command , had passed.
"The Oneldn. had been knocked Into help
lessness by the cncony's shells nnd was
being pulled past the forts by her consort ,
the Oalcna.
"As she passed us and as we closed In
upon the wooden vessels I saw the Tenncs-
scee pass to her starboard and attempt to
deliver a broadside. Falling In this the
Tennessee passed under her stern nnd at the
same tlmo delivered a raking lire , which cost
her commander , poor Mullany , an arm.
A TIMELY RESCUE.
"Tho Tennessee thtm made for the Onelda
with the Intention of ramming her , but giv
ing orders for full speed , I took position
between the ram and her Intended victim ,
when the rnm , seeing before her nn Ironclad
Instead of a crippled wooden vessel , sheered
off.
off."Tho
"Tho crow of the Onclila , who were ex
pecting to bo rammed , leaped upon the rail
nnd cheered heartily as the Wlnnebago
passed by.
"After this incident the Tennessee re
frained from further attacks upon the
wooden vessels and retreated to a safe nn-
chorngo under the guns of Fort Morgan ,
where she had the company of a confederate
gunboat , the others having been captured
or sunk.
sunk.A
A CHANCE FOR BREAKFAST.
"Tho union fleet had now passed the rebel
works and was some distance above Fort
Morgan , nnd as actlvo hostilities had ceased ,
our men were given their breakfast. Break
fast hnd hardly been begun , however , when
signs of activity were noticed on board the
distant ram , and a few minutes later , nt
ten minutes bcfora 9 , she was reported ap-
pi caching.
"Although her action in attacking' the en
tire fleet was a surprise , yet It wns just what
Farragut wanted , for ho Intended to have
attacked her that night with the monitors.
THE TENNESSEE GETS J1ER PUNISH
MENT.
"As the Tennessee approached signal was
made to the monitors to destroy her , the
Monongahela , Lackawanna and Ossipec
being directed to ram her If possible. The
action was brief , but decisive. The entire
union fleet beset the ram , which made o gal
lant fight , but nothing could withstand the
galling' flro poured in by our vessels at such
a rnnfie. Her smokestack was shot away ,
nawas also her tiller chains , nnd she floated
helplessly down the bay , followed by the
Chlckasaw , while we Km the Manhattan
and Wlnnebago were running for her and
pounding away , with the others hovering
about for a chance to ram her.
"Tho Tennessee endured this hammering
unable to reply for twenty minutes , at the
end of which tlmo her flag was hauled down
and hoisted on a boat hook , which was
thrust through a grating. This was not no
ticed , and the flr& of the fleet continuing ,
Johnston , her commander , went on the roof
of the shield and waved a whlto flag , As
ho stood there , the Osslpee was bearing
down at full spr/ed. Intending to ram ; she
passed mo as 1 stood on the deck of my
sluggish craft and Le Roy , her commander ,
and I exchanged greetings.
"On seeing the white flag displayed the
Osslpee's he'm ' was put over and her en
gines reversed to prevent a collision , but her
momentum was too great and she banged
Into the ram with a crash.
A RECOGNITION.
"As the two vessels came together Lo
Roy appeared on the forecastle and sang
out : 'Hallo , Johnston , old fellow ! how
are you ? This is the United States steamer
Osslpcel I'll send a boat alongside for you !
It's Lo Roy ! don't you know me ? "
"And so ended the battle of Mobile Day ;
It had lasted but little , over three hours ,
tut they were hours of many minutes. Our
casualties amounted to 129 killed and
wounded , to say nothing of the pounding our
ships received. "
"It was a grand fight , " said I.
"The grandest I ever was In , " the ad
miral answered with enthusiasm.
And then I left him , but I had to walk
many blocks and hear many street sounds
before I could drive from my mind the
roar , the clash and the glory of the battle of
MobileBay. . STEVENS VAIL.
Getting Kvrn.
Washington Star ; "You barbers do a
heap of talking , don't you ? " remarked the
Inconsiderate man as he took his place in
the chair.
"Some of us do , " was the answer.
"People are always kicking In the comic
papers about you having so much to say. "
"Well , " replied the tonsorlal artist , "In
some cases I don't blame them , "
"Why not ? "
"Because It's unquestionably Impolite for
anybody to make an ostentatious display of
superior knowledge- . "
In Germany postofflco employes are not per
mitted to mi1"/ without the special permis
sion ot the government.
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Bmoll plto ( Upcoullnuert ; nld.fiOa.Klcv , now25o. : old
tl rlzo. now ) o. OUARANTIlEa Unued only by
Goodman Drua Co. , Omaha.
GLOBE
BUILDING
S. W. Cor. 16th and Dodge 6ts.
4 PER CENT INTEREST PAID OM SAV
INGS DEPOSITS ,
< V4 I'EU CENT. ON TIME CEKTIFICATE3-
I TO 8 MONTHS.
C Piil CENT. ON TIMECEnTiriCATES -
C MONTHS AND OVER.
Tou are Invited to coma In and op n an 'RO-
rount with ui. Hanking hour * B to 4 P. H ,
dally. Open Saturday nlgliti to rcceir * depoilta
only , to t P. M.
M.O.
. O. DEVniF.8. President. T
CADET TAYLOR. Vtc Pel.
IV. D. TAYLOR , Caihler.
II. A. HANSEN , AHX Cuhltr.
RYA
EXACT SIZE PERFECT/ ! /
THE MERCANIILB IS THE FAVORITE TEK CENI CIGAR ,
rale by all First Class Dealers. Manufactured by the
F. R , UICE MERCANTILE CIGAR CO. ,
Factory No. tiOi , St. Louis , Ha ,