THE OMAHA DAIL BEE : SUNDAY , AUGUST 5 , 1891. 11
TRUMPET OF DAME CRONDY
Matronly Advlco for the Benefit of the
Newly Married Womam
HUBBY IS EASIER TO WIN THAN TO HOLD
Tlint' * Why the .Modern Novel lleglnt nt the
Altnr Illrtliiiluco or Lillian Kumcll Her
I'ormcr i lujrnmto na Oninlin At *
tornojr I'cmlnliio 1'nnclci.
There are many wnya of getting a hus
band and also many ways of keeping one.
Out In most cases the getting Is much the
easier part.
Novels of a century ago ended with the
chlmo of the ncddlng bells , says a writer
In the Philadelphia Times ; novels of today
usually begin there and their object eccms
to bo to show how thoroughly uncomforta
ble. If not unhappy , the majority of married
people arc.
Wives find that theft husband * are but
human after all. As lovers they believed
them perfect , and no amount of reasoning
could make them ECO the faults \\lilch they
80 easily discover after marriage. In this
talk wo do not mean to speak of those who
ore unworthy the name of man , who know
nothing of love ; who , by nature and In-
tlnct , belong to the loner order of animals ,
but men as we find them today , full of
generous Impulses , kind , noble-hearted , but
faulty withal.
A clone observer will find that very early
In married life differences nrlse , and neither
Is willing to yield the point. The result
is that they drift apart In hcait and are un
happy. Often relief Is sought at the divorce
court.
A wife's Influence can be stronger than
anything else on earth. She can lead where
eho will and he will follow willingly though
unconsciously. She can bind her husband to
her by tics so strong that death Itself can
not break them , and If young wives only
gave this more earnest thought there would
bo fewer unhappy homes.
Make your home the happiest place on
earth for your husband. Let him feel that
there ho can rest heart , soul and body.
Someone lias said : "A wife Is something
to come home to. " I believe there arc
men who dread the hour for going home.
Let him feel that there. Is a haven of rest
after the day's labor. A man Is constantly
among scenes that perplex and annoy ; he
sees the harder and rougher side of life.
And the softening and refining Influences
must come from home.
Always have the table neat and dainty.
The linen may be coarse , but It can be
Clean. A man likes and enjoys such things
unless ho bo a Diogenes. I knew a young
wife who thought the kitchen table good
enough for her husband , but was proud to
how her best china to friends.
Why not give our own the best ? It Is
said Hint a man's heart Is reached through
his stomach. However this may be. It Is
a well understood fact that It Is difficult
for either man or woman to cultivate the
Christian graces on a poor diet. A man
comes homo tired and hungry. If he finds
no meal ready , the children fretful , the
wife cross and untidily dressed , Is It any
wonder that he seeks more congenial places ?
A little method In your work will obviate
All these dinlcultlcs , as a rule , ando are
not speaking of exceptions. We must not
blame a man who Is dissatisfied when ho
has to get his own meals and his wife Is
Hblo to do It. Wo could never understand
Why women , so delicate at home that the
least exertion tired them , could travel and
Visit for weeks and not feel any the worse
lor It.
Don't pose as an Invalid unless you are
obliged to. A sick room Is not a delightful
place to spend ono's life , and conversation
that U confined to a recital of such fancies
is apt to bo uninteresting and one-sided.
Let tto ) food be nourishing and well
cooked , and have as great a variety as you
can afford. Men with appetites for strong
drink have been saved by proper cooking ,
and drunkards have been made by poor
cooking.
Don't fill his ears with complaints about
the children and servants as soon as he
enters the house. Use tact and common
sense , and you will get all the sympathy
and help you need In your grievances.
Be as careful about your personal appear
ance as when you were receiving your lover.
A man wants to be proud of his wife. Ho
do a not marry to got a household drudge.
After twenty yearn of married life a wife
laid to mo : "My husband Is my Ideal. "
And ho was no more of an angel than the
majority of men. Through many years of
adversity , misfortune and deep sorrow she
has never wavc/od. Her husband has ever
found In her a true helpmate , and her
fidelity and love have kept him true and
loyal to her.
Uut , after all. It Is love first , last and
always that will bind your husband's heart
to you. Love him with all your soul , and
lot him know that you love him.
"Born to Mr. and Mrs. Charles E. Leon
ard , at their home , on Fourth avenue , December -
comber 4 , 1SG1 , a bright baby girl , weighing
nine and one-half pounds. "
This , the first press notice the acknowl
edged queen of comic opera , Lillian Hus-
ficll , over received , appeared on December 7 ,
ISC1 , and was penned by her emu father ,
the editor of the Clinton , la. . Weekly Her
ald.
ald.That
That Lillian Russell was born In an alley
may grate harshly on the cars of her
worshipful admirers , and she herself maybe
bo ashamed of It , but It Is true , neverthe
less. The house In Clinton , lit which the
interesting event occcurrcd , was situated In
the rear of the ofllco building of H. U. Horton -
ton , located on Fourth avenue , Between
First and Second streets , and faced east on
the alley running north and south between
Third and Fourth avenues. At that time
the house \uis situated almost In the cen
ter of the business district , across the street
from the Iowa Central hotel , then the larg
est hotel In Iowa , and one of the finest
west of Chicago.
The main portion was "squatty , "
icarccly a story and a half In height , and
covered a ground space of 18x25 feet. The
front door opened directly Into the room
used as a parlor. There were three other
rooms on the ground floor , occupied as sit
ting room , bedroom and kitchen , and dining
room combined.
The main portion of the house linn been
moved and now constitutes an addition to
the building occupied by a bottling com
pany ; and the old walls , which were the
drat to hear the voice of the now great
sinter , resound with the hissing noise of
machines used In bottling the effervescent
pop.
Shortly after Lillian's birth the Leonard
family removed from the abode on the alley
to 40 $ SiniMitli avenue. Immediately In the
rear of the Baptist church , and at that time
one of the finest residences In the town.
Hero the remainder of their da > s In Clinton
wore spent. It was hero as a little girl
iho was often engaged making mud pics with
a youngster who has slnco risen to promi
nence as a leading member of the Omnlm
bar , and who often boasts of this early as
sociation.
Lillian Inherited her beauty and her
other good trails from her father , says the-
St. Louis 1'ost-Dlspatch , Charles B. Leon
ard was a man of line appearance and al
ways dressed In a faultless manner. Mrs.
Leonard Is remembered by Clinton as an
awkward , heavy , ungainly woman , who took
llttlo care of her personal appearance.
Her round , full face was thickly dotted
with freckles and her head was covered
with a growth of red hair of a bright hue ,
always kept closely cropped. She seldom
looked neat or tidy. Mrs. Leonard was a
McNatno. and her family lived In Buffalo ,
N. Y.
About the marriage of Lillian's parents
hunc a mystery which was never solved so
far aa the- Clinton public or even their
nearest neighbors were concerned. Yet , not
withstanding the wide difference between
them , their residence of several yearn In
Clinton was apparently happy , and U was
not until several years later , after their re
moval to Chicago , that the cloiftls fathered
which broke In a storm that ended In dl-
vorco.
Before the divorce Lillian , whoso volco
had been dUcovered to possess unusual quail-
tU'ii. was educated , it * th oav Di p > -
Sacred Heart In Chicago , her general educa-
lion being rounded off with A thorough
course In vocal culture , She became a mem
ber of a church diolr , and In 1879 procured
an engagement from B. L. nice to play In
"Pinafore. " Later slie was engaged to alng
ballads In Tony I'astor's theater , New York ,
since which time her life nnd actions are
familiar to the newspaper rcodlnrj public.
Up on the top floor of the Havemeycr
building Is a curious Institution , which Is
probably the only one of Its kind In Now
York. It H a complete electrical kitchen ,
and It exemplifies very fully what electricity
has done for the domestic hearth , says the
New York World.
This kitchen , however , Is not for commer
cial purposes. U represents an Idea of an
electric heating flrm , which has started In
to give a soilcs of "electric lunchos" to elec
trical men. One of these was given the other
Jay the only person present who was not an
electrician being a World reporter. Before
he had left he had so thoroughly Imbibed the
current of good fellowship that ho caught
himself talking of ohms and amperes with
quite a technical leer.
A curious and Interesting adjunct Is an old
ten cook , divorced from his primitive uten
sils on board a Balling vessel and placed In
the midst of a scientific array of electrical
pots and pans and current heated chafing
dishes. But the most surprising thing about
this cookery la that the art of "knowing
when and where" In cooking seems to bo
lost. All that Is necessary In to turn on the
current and watch the clock. The cook says
he has been n marine chef long enough "to
entitle his offspring to be called a son of a
sea cook , but never has ho tan an arrange
ment which so sets a man's knor.ledge at
naught and allo\vr him to become a mere
pan shover" Ho also suggests that the
perennial Joke about the young wife's cookIng -
Ing will lose Its point If she uses the cur
rent.
rent.There
There Is a grain of truth In the last remark -
mark , for everything Is so arranged that
nothing Is left to the Judgment of the cook.
A leg of lEinb , for Instance , Is prepared
and placed In .the electrical oven and Is
never looked at until the pi escribed hour
and ten minutes are up. The meat Is not
oven "basted , " and two of three minutes
difference In the time makes a difference
In the quality of the cooking. The wires
which distribute the heat are arranged on
all sides of the oven , and , as a result , all
sides of the meat are cooked evenly. .
All the employes of the electrical heating
flrm cat their midday meal In this modern
kitchen , which , although used to prepare
dally meals for fourteen or more persons , Is
yet as cool as a seaside dining room , and this
without any special system of ventilation.
The electrical kitchen has proved a great
success. The absence of danger from fire
constitutes a reason which may cause the
, cniploj inent of the same system on ocean
steamships , nearly all of which are lilted
with electric plants.
Not long ago Miss Kmma Thursby , In the
course of a conversation with a New York
Times representative on other subjects , spoke
of the matter of children taking up the study
of music. She referred to seeing children
at the musical congress In Chicago. They
studied by numbers Instead of notes , and ,
though they were very young , ranging In
years from 6 up , and had been studying only
a very short time , their proficiency was
remarkable. Every note placed upon the
board In front of them they would sine at
sight.
Miss Thursby thinks that music should be
taught by simple , pleasant systems , as we
learn the languages now , not by long delv
ing into grammars , but by easy conversa
tional methods. As her own personal opin
ion , she bald : "I think children should bo
taught music as soon as they can do any
thing. My father was passionately fond of
music , and I commenced to study when I
was C years old. You cannot tell what
child may have a special talent. They ought
to sing as they read theli books , learn sing
ing as they do speaking and their letters.
There Is nothing so beautiful as music ; jes ,
I think It has a moral effect. When I meet
my friends I say : 'Why don't you have
your children study music at once Instead of
waiting ? By the time they are able to think
about It themselves they will bo all over
the difficulties. ' Of course , a person cannot
sing If l e hasn't a voice ; you
can't make a voice , but I don't thlnlc
I should have sung If I hadn't commenced
early. The practice of teaching young chil
dren to sing Is going to make more musi
cians. I think we are going to have a fine
school of music In America. We have many
young composers. "
Aside from this artistic view , the teach
ing of chllren to sing has a recognized
hygienic value. Nuns are said to be freer
from pulmonary troubles than many classes
of society , and their habit of. constant
chanting and Intoning Is ascribed as one of
the causes. It has been affirmed of the
German race that Its nontendency to con
sumption arises from Its strong musical
characteristics. The exercise of singing Is
a splendid one to promote healthy lung ac
tion , and whether children show a talent for
singing or not it is an excellent thing to
have them taught how , and to see that they
practice their knowledge.
Gardening Is destined to become a part
of the general education of women. Its
value In the kindergarten system cannot bo
overestimated , \lready in several kinder
gartens flowering plants are kept In the
schoolroom , and the children are taught to
properly care for them. The result of this
Innovation , says a writer In Home and Coun
try , Is said to bo highly satisfactory , slnco
the work develops traits and talents not ac
quired by other means.
Not only for kindergarten teachers Is a
knowledge of gardening valuable , but also
for Instructors of the higher grades. Re
cently the thorough understanding and
proper care of the human body has become
a branch of education of the utmost Im
portance. The serious and often fatal re
sults of Ignorance In this direction have
been too openly manifest. So physiology
has been coupled with elementary hygiene In
our public schools.
Just so , also , the plant culture. Is des
tined to become a part of botany , as It Is
now taught. Inasmuch as entomology may
encourage cruelty unless carefully guided ,
so also botany may encourage ruthlessness
unless coupled with careful training In the
care of plants.
That a woman with a knowledge of flower
gardening , fruit culture , and kitchen gard
ening will make a more efficient wife for
the farmer , surburban resident or country
mechanic , needs no explanation.
The Influence of this branch of education
upon the jouth of both ecxes Is very pow
erful. During the earlier days of life chil
dren are more receptive , and the Inborn love
of nature can bo either stimulated so as to
exert a healthful Influence over the whole
life , or blunted and lost by neglect.
A most remarkable meeting was held a
few days ago In the parlors of a fashionable
hotel In Memphis , says the New York
Times. It waa a gathering of a considerable
body of the city's leading women , socially
and phllanthroplcally regarded , who had
come In response to a call for the women In
terested In furthering the manufacturing In
terests of the city.
It ended tu the forming of a Woman's
auxiliary , to supplement the work of the
Young MCIV'B Business league. Their motto
Is evidently to bo loyal to Memphis In every
way and devotion to her best Interests.
They undertake to secure the Memphis
trade for the Memphis manufacturer. Other
things being equal , the Memphis buyer Is to
be urged to become a patron of Uio Memphis
maker.
Other means of conserving and augment
ing the best Interests of the city are also
to bo employed , one that "No Momphlan
shall ever speak a word of disparagement of
the city.
Schemes for town Improvement have al
ready been undertaken , and the spirit of
sincerity with which the matter has been
taken up Is Indicated In the presiding offi
cer's Mrs. William Randolph address ) , who
cautioned her listeners against the first
enthusiasm , which sometimes dies out , and
urged them to serious , persistent effort.
It Is significant that almost every woman
present was a club woman , and that Mem
phis U one of the most flourishing of wo
men's club centers In the south. This Is
right In line with the work of club women on
every side. They first organize , consolidate ,
and try their own abilities to acquire knowl
edge and Information. Then comes the de
sire to apply their new found strength In
practical ways. Such Is going to be the
constantly Increasing character and value
of the work of women's clubs.
It you have been badly sunburned , just as
soon as ) ou can procure It apply to the
br--4 / , thick coating of white vase
line , which let remain for ten minutes or
more ; then rub It off by applying a soft dry
cloth trsnt/ ! ; have , a bowl of very hot water
brought to you and n Lin linen towel , saya
the Cincinnati Commercial ,
Dip the towel In the water , which must be
hot enough to steam , and almost bury your
face In It , but do not touch the skin .with It
for some time ; you should steam your face
thin way for fifteen minutes , and by that
time every drop of blood In your body will
seem to be In your face. Then call for moro
hot water and apply It In a soft , gentle fash
ion to the skin for fifteen minutes.
Then put on a coating of vaseline and lie
down for halt on hour ; when you get up
you will be as fresh as a daisy and your
face will not trouble you In the least. Of
course , the length of time for treatment
will depend upon , how badly you are burned.
But an hour ought to fix you up all right ,
Apply vaseline again on retiring.
"Do not , " says the Delsarte exponent ,
"own one Inch of black , even In shoes ; have
shoes to match your gowns. Black reduces
the size , but also reduces power and Influ
ence. Appreciate the good points of being
large. Mine. Blavatsky was one of the best
dressed large women In the world. Instead
of attracting attention to her outline and
accentuating her size by showing how she
could burst out of a tailor-made suit , she al
ways wore large , loose gowns , hanging from
the shoulders , which , although she wns mas
sive , gave her a form of pleasing , graceful
lines. "
"When we were children , " remarked a
delightful old lady , who carried her seventy
years with aristocratic grace , "little girls
were always taught to carry a fan when they
went Into the drawing-room. . 'Always carry
your fan , my dear , " was my mother's last In
junction when I went out. 'It will keep you
from feeling awkwnrd and looking conscious ; '
and I have often thought what an excellent
fashion It was and what a pity It Is that the
Importance of the fan has so greatly de
creased. In my day to manage a fan prop-
cily was considered a distinct accomplish
ment. To unfurl It slowly and majestically
as a Juno might ; to flutter It vivaciously ; to
wave It languidly ; to open and shut It medi
tatively all this wo were expected to learn
by Instinct and observation.
" 'With a fan you need never look 111 at
case , ' was another of my mother's maxims ,
and we girls quickly found out the truth of
this for ourselves , and I tell my granddaugh
ters that they lose a goodly weapon when
they leave their fans at home , or consider
them merely as an adjunct of their toilettes ,
In use merely to cool their heated faces. "
Mrs. Amelia Rives Chanler has a strong
face , regular In features and with a chin of
firmness. Her nose Is a little Inclined to 1)3
beaked , somewhat like her father's. Her
complexion Is healthy and Indicates vitality.
There Is a patrician air about her tempered1
with gentleness. One forgets In her presence
that she could write a book throbbing with
human passions that at times reach a parox
ysm of frenzy greater In intensity than any-
tblng Dante has ever wrUten. In one less
gifted It would have been considered puerile
sentiment run mad. This handsome matron ,
still young , still In the prime of a glorious
womanhood has all that wealth can give.
But has she reached the zenith of her aspira
tions , or does she still dream that she will
write a book which will create more com
ment and more criticism than the "Quick or
the Dead ? " No one can fathom that ques
tion by gazing at her handsome face. Her
life abroad and the homage that has been
paid her have robbd her of the Ingenuous
girlhood ways which her friends knew and
loved BO well In her rural home. That Is
not saying she Is not sincere and not as
friendly as ever. It means that she has had
to meet society and learn Its diplomatic po
liteness.
A pack of cards and a box of gay glass
beads should go Into every mother's outing
trunk. The elaborate and cumbersome home
toys , the heavy books from the nursery ahelf
are burdens to take about , but the paste
boards and bits , of glass take up practi
cally no room , and will be found Invaluable
resources on rainy days , or through hours
when even outdoor country palls.
If the children know some games of cards
so much the better , but even small children
delight In the bright pictures of the court
cards , and by no means disdain the humbler
spot ones. Besides games , cards make de
lightful houscr. It will bo very young
children , however , who will not know from
one to half a dozen games with the cards
these ( lavs.
Last week In the back parlor of an up
town house four llttlo girls were found , on
the entrance of the mother of one of them ,
seated around a table deep In a game of
cards. Their ages were 11 , 10 , and two were
9 each. To the new comer's surprise It was
discovered that the midgets were playing. In
midsummer , too , whist. Their game was a
fairly good one , and the main principles of
Polo and Cavendish were carefully ob
served.
To return to the beads- , they can be found
at any of the large toy stores or toy de
partments , packed In boxes of various prices ,
according to the size and quantity. Buy
some bead needles to go with them , and con
sider that It Is money Invested for sure re
turns.
At the World's fair last summer women
took active part In all the congresses ex
cept six. One of these was Forestry , and
It Is being suggested that no such embargo
need be laid on the sex at the next Inter
national exhibition. As It Is not necessary
that every forester should hew down a tree ,
the knowing how to direct the process alone
being requisite , the rest of the study of tree
life and Its development Is wholly within
the capability of any woman. In Philadel
phia It Is planned to establish at least ono
class of women for this study as an ex
periment , and It Is hoped that out of It may
come a deslro for a similar step In other
places , looking eventually to the establish
ment of the profession of practical land
scape gardening for women. Few pursuits
suit many of the sex's characteristics bet
ter than this , and the one or two positions
of the sort held by women In England and
other countries demonstrate their capability
for them.
I'fiRliInn NOICH.
Flower scissors In steel or silver are now
Included In a set of scissors.
Boating costumes of cornflower blue serge
are braided with line lines of gold.
The majority of this year's debutantes , of
course , wear white , but pink In lovely tints
Is also greatly favored.
Ono of the airiest caprices of fashion Is an
enormous tulle cravat forming n largo bow ,
tied directly under the chin , which looks like
a big delusive butterfly.
The latest fad of ribbon cravat Is made of
several yards of ribbon , quite- narrow , which
Is used up In loops and two long ends nearly
reaching to the feet. It Is very stylish , but
sometimes rather Inconvenient.
All-black lace and chiffon capes are ele
gant. Black and white lace and chiffon In
combination form recherche mantles , and
cieam-vvhlte accordion-pleated chiffon , with
flounces of cream Venetian point above , com
pose the Ideal cape of the summer.
Now collarettes are made of a circular
piece of lace or chiffon. A hole la cut In
the middle and a narrow ribbon Is run In ,
by which the material Is shirred up to fit the
throat. A frill of lace , set In very full ,
either gathered or plaited , has an Insertion
heading , with daisy ribbon.
"Confidence cushions" are what the big
squacg pillows that stand In a corner near
the fireplace are suitably called. They ore
of mohair , denim , or corduroy , and are
brought Into service In the cosy lounging
chats that only the hearthstone of an open
fire- can evolve.
Foulard silks are still very fashionable ,
and they deserve their popularity. Simply
made , they look no dressier than the lus
trous French sateens or dressed cambrics in
flower , dot and striped designs , that are
suited to Iho earlier hours of the day , and
can hardly bo distinguished from foulard.
Velvet has gone through quite a transformation
mation this year. H Is to be had In crepe ,
like the crepe associated with mourning. It
la covered with bpots sunk Into the fabric
and also with spots In relief. It Is shot ,
mlrolr velvet and striped and brocaded.
There U hardly any end to the treatment
of It.
The delicate combinations of pleated chiffon
fen and lace , which are dignified by the
name of duchess of York capes , give but a
faint suggestion of garments that are sup
posed to do duty against cool sea and moun
tain breezes , but every fashionable woman
la supposed to possess one of these dainty
"confections. "
Among very fashionable people , particu
larly those who aifect Hnullih , fancies in
drcni , tiny velvet bonOf < and capotes are
conspicuously popular , Mit ' 4j > lte of midsum
mer weather , but tbCSUTleaddrciseS re so
Infinitesimal as to size that they cannot by
any possibility oppre'ss' ' ? the wearer with
' ' *
Weight.
English halrdrcsslnE. jiiiilglng by very re
cent photographs of royal Jtoomcn , Is In very
bad style. Braids and 'polls arc piled upon
the back and crown jot 'the ' head , and the
front arranged In row" Upon row of donsfl
flat rings , with ono tor. two equally heavy
ones brought to a point very low on the
forehead almost between Iho eyebrows.
nihbon Is much u ed , on evening gowns
and long sash ends arq'n. favorite trimming
at the back , while at the front and sides
ribbons , cither singly , or ( n loops , fall from
the waist , and the endsare , fastened to the
skirt with little boutfuew of flowers. Overskirts -
skirts of wide ribbon and Insertion lace are
very effective , and art usually finished with
a ruche of ribbon.
A costume of silk and figured muslin for
a fete champetro Is made of a soft silvery
gray peau do sole , and the muslin of the
same shade , the blouse waist belted In with
a brick-red ribbon , and a skirt of the muslin
falling over the silk In long coqulllcs ; a fall
of broad guipure from the shoulders , caught
over the breast with a knot of the brick-red
ribbon , and one confining the collar , the
bow being at the back of the neck.
Many styles of halrdresslng are In vogue
this summer. What Is known as the "smart
set" elect cither for the parted tresses rip-
pllng at the sides of the head , and gathered
Into rather a low knot , or to have the hair
parted on the left side , waved across the
crown of tlio head , with a soft baby fringe
In front falling over the forehead , and a
Greek knot as an odd finish set exactly In
the center of the head at the back.
Queen Victoria will keep Irish poplin a
fashionable fabric for seasons to come , for
some months ago she ordered a number of
gowns of this fabric for the trousseau of
1'rlncess Allx of Hesse. Dublin manufac
turers have supplied dress-length patterns
of the most beautiful description. Three are
In white and gold , In the latter real metal
threads sometimes forming the most of the
device ; In others , simply outlining the de
sign.
sign.A
A happy revival of an old fashion Is the
fash. It Is either black cr white soft satin ,
with the ends richly fringed. Some colors
are used , but black and white arc a neces
sity , as colored satins arc apt to look vul
gar. There Is a change In the arrange
ment of the sash ; the former long loops
are now short bows with the long ends fallIng -
Ing to the lower edge of the skirt. The
bash gives such a thoroughly feminine and
youthful finish to the costume that It Is
sure to bo received with pleasure.
Russet shades will continue In fashionable
favor both for tailor dresses and for cos
tumes for the mountain and seasides. Some
of the French models are of russet and cream
colored striped wool , with blouses of cream
colored crepallne , edged on the box plaits
with russet colored lace Insertion. En
suite with these dresses are sleeveless Jack
ets of russet cloth , which turn back with
brown moire revcrs. They fasten under the
chin with one button , but are so shaped
that on a sudden blow they can be drawn
well over the chest.
There ore worn thla season at fashionable
watering places some exceedingly pretty
sheer India lawns In open work designs
and of the soft tint of undycd linen. These
materials are s Ik , striped variously In
mauve , rose color , golden green , pale brown
and black. They are made up over white
lawn or silk the shade of the stiipc , and
trimmed with wide iccru emrolderlcs , the
accessories usually Includlpg a girdle. roundIng -
Ing Toreador jacket and very deep cuffs made
by covering the close portion from wrist
to elbow with the embro.dery.
'
Scrym having taken a , , fashlomble y to
Its name , takes on , tpo. a somewhat more
elaborate appearance "than In Its former
condition. It Is now vow sheer and lacelike -
like and altogether open1 , and Is again , and
deservedly , a favorite at.the cottage win
dow. Sheer dotted muslins In every size of
dot are effeoi'.vely lined ' -with cheese cloth
In pale artistic tints1 anil' ' are ti&ed as cur
tain drapery and as dressing table hangings
and as bed valances. AJsummer room fur
nished this way over Nile green cheese
cloth Is wonderfully -cool IcoKlng and rest
ful In appearance.
Three cr four bewitching hats have Just
made their appearancer-pno of whlto s.lk
muslin , fine knife pleated and arranged on a
form so as to fit the head shorter In the
back and more of a poke In frcnt. Lying
down upon It ere two ostrich feathers
caught together with a paste buckle. The
llttlo bonnet made of violets and forming a
star In Its outline on the head is very fetch-
Ing. The stems are caught together on
the tp with a largo bow of ribbon of the
lighter shades of the flower. A fold of vel
vet fastened on the side with a Jeweled
violet holds the little bonnet In place.
i'cnilnlno Notes.
A fact worthy of note Is that In many
German factories the female employes are
forbidden to wear corsets during working
hours.
This Is how the Empress Eugenie de
scribes herself : "Marie Eugenie , Countess
de Plerrefond , widow ; aged 67 ; born at Gran
ada , In Spain ; naturalized French. "
The recent munificent gift of Miss Mary
Garrctt to the medical school at Johns
Hopkins , by the terms of the endowment ,
opens wide to1 womankind the doors of this
particular part of the university.
Soap tablets are the latest form of com
pressed merchandise. They come packed In
pretty boxes , each tablet about the size of
a lozenge. Naturally , they are chiefly valu
able In traveling , but the slippery cake of
the homo dish may conveniently give way
to these small doses.
Queen Victoria Is In possession of a curious
needle. It was made at the celebrated needle
manufactory at Reddltch , and represents the
Trajan column In miniature. Scenes from
the queen's life are depicted on the needle so
finely cut that they ore only discernible
through a microscope.
The women who met Mme. Bogelot , the
only woman French delegate at the Woman's
congress In Chicago last summer , will l In
terested In the added lustre her well known
name has Just receive. In recognition of
her devoted life services In behalf of female
criminals she has been awarded the ribbon
of the Legion of Honor ,
A dress album has a value beyond the
mere caprice of Its owner. It Is a largo
blank book , Into which Is pasted two-Inch
squares of every new gown which the com
piler buys. The date of Its first wearing Is re
corded , and as Its cost Is usually added In a
cipher , It offers a tubulated presentment of
comparative eponomy which should bo heeded.
"I wish , " says a woman , whoso former
home was In Florida , "that I could find up
north hero the delicious 'lady linger'
banana of the Indian river. I have never
seen ono since I left the south , and to mo
It Is the richest-flavored variety of the
fruit. They may come to the wholesale
down town markets , but frequent Inquiries
at the up town fruit stands' ' have never met
with success. "
The young women members of a fashion
able bicycle club of Cincinnati have added
archery to the pleasures of a run on the
wheel. They rldo to a target meet , spend a
couple of hours at tljo graceful sport , and
whirl home again onthe , steel circles. Al
ready the skill with tpe arrow has stood at
least one of them In gpod stead , who ,
bothered by a vicious dog , as she rode along ,
promptly dismounted , fitted an arrow , and
sent It whizzing against the belligerent dog ,
What to do with ono's hands has been con
sidered a sort of test of ease of manner ,
but foot etiquette Is nowadays a distinctly
recognized topic of the- physical culturist's
curriculum. Crossed feet are not only Inele
gant , but weaken thomnkles ; tlp-tllted feet
are indiscreet , and toes or heels twisted
upon chair rungs are not to bo tolerated.
Straight on the ground , well beneath the
shadow of the skirt , and In an easy natural
position is the pose for feet that are not In
walking use.
A young Japanese gentleman , who came to
this country to be educated , has yielded to
the charms of an American girl , and will
give up his country for his bride. He does
not , however , yield his fondness for Japanese
ways and things , and he Is fitting up their
home In Salem , Mass. , In true Japanese
fashion. He has Imported tiles , -wall papers ,
Jraperlcs , screens , and the like , direct from
the Island empire. The servants are moon-
eyed Orientals , and the menage Is to be con
ducted after Japanese methods of house
keeping. _
The great cloudburst on Black Fork near
Qrten Hlver carried away 60,000 ties that
were boomed near Granger. These are now
scattered for 100 miles up and down that
stream. . . . . . . . . ,
INDIAN LAND ALLOTMENTS
Trouble Between Whiles nnd Indiana Over
the Old "Ornnha Rcsorvo , "
BAD SNARL FOR HOKE TO DISENTANGLE
Llko Whlto I-nmllrmU I.o Known How to
Dnnv Units but I * UnMile tu
I'uy Tnxoft 1'ncttons Among
the Oinnlms.
TENDER , Aug. 1. To the Editor of The
Bee : Race problems never cease In the
United States. Measures pending In the
courts nnd In congress regarding the allot
ment of lands among the Omaha and Wlnno-
bago Indians are attracting attention ,
The original "Omaha Reserve" was about
thirty miles across , north and south , and
nearly forty miles from the Missouri river
west , depending on the windings of the
river , containing about 300,000 acres. The
eastern portion Is rough , has considerable
natural timber and on account of this shelter
was the portion early selected by the tribe
for their principal village nnd their resi
dence. The western portion lies In the
Logan valley and contains some of the
finest grazing or agricultural lands In the
state. In the ' 70s a strip ten miles wide
was cut off from the north end and sold to
the Wlnncbagos , who were brought hero
from Wisconsin , and the two tribes were In
time placed under one agent. They , too ,
lived mainly In the eastern end of their
reserve , In the rougher part. The wagon
road across the reserves from Decatur to
Dakota runs through this rough section ,
and as a matter of fact few people knew cr
realized that the west end of the reservation
contained many acres of the finest land In
Nebraska , much of It level as a floor and rich
In verdure. As long as farming land was
no object to the Indians and they expected
to live forever on their regular annuities
little was heard about this end of the re
stive. When the Chicago , St. Paul , Minne
apolis and Omaha railroad was built through
this portion of the state these Indian lands
put on a new face. The "reserve" was no
more a rough tract of land on the Missouri
river that nobody wanted. The whlto man
could not rldo through that valley of waving
greens and not covet those splendid acres ,
apparently going to waste. The Indian
philanthropists from the cast came on mi'l
saw that the land was fair to look upon
and they began to plan for the Indians'
good , you Know , so that about ten years
slnco a largo portion of both reserves was
"allotted" or divided up Into quarter sec
tions and less , so that the Indians could
each occupy his own Individual home If he
chose. The Bee gave the method of allot
ment in a recent Issue. A portion was left
In common or "tribal land" for future dis
position.
The Indian did not "occupy" very readily ,
at least not on the Logan ; he stuck close
to the timber , and still the grass grew and
waved and not a hoof to eat It up legiti
mately. As a matter of fact their neighbors
pastured on the red man's land and this led
to a result.
During this tlmo two very Important bills
were passed relating to these matters ; one
by congress , making the Indians citizens ,
or trying to , with the right to vote , go
where they pleafcc off the reservation and
enlarging their liberty generally. The land
west of the railroad track was sold to the
whites and became the nucleus of Thurston
county. Prior to this the "reset ves" had
been attached to Hurt county on the south
and Dakota county on the north , "for
Judicial , elective nnd revenue purposes. "
In 1889 , by state law , this strip west of
the Chicago , St. Paul , Minneapolis & Omaha
track and the two reserves were organized
into one county , called Thurston , with
Pender us the county seat. Of course there
was kicking by Burt , Cuming and Dakota
counties , which had each hoped some day
to attach a portion of the reservation to
themselves , enlarge their boundaries nnd
get some of that free grass for keeps , but
the name given the county , the growing
scarcity of land and the -Immediate neces
sity of having a new county right then and
there carried the day and Thurston county
became a fixed fact In the polity of Ne
braska.
And now comes the music for Pender and
other towns on the border. Thurston county
grew and flourished , but If you look at the
map you will observe that the strip west
of the railroad track Is very narrow , and
could not contain many people at best , and
those who did not settle there soon found
out they were paying all ths taxes for the
great big county of Thurston , for the Indian
woudn't tax worth a cent. Ho never had
been taxed , and ho never meant to be , If ho
could help It. He could shift his ponies
round , and slide out of a personal tax as
sleek as a white man , and with more Just
ness , for the white man lies on purpose ,
while the Indian really thought ho ought
not to pay this tax. The title to the real
estate was yet In the government , so that
could not be taxed , and the \\liolo burden
of public affairs In Thurston county fell on
the few whites who had something to tax.
This was the origin of ths "tax-bill" now
before congress. It asks the general govern
ment to pay this tax , because the Indians
can't or won't.
It was like this : Some years ago a party
of four went down to the state penitentiary
on a visit of Inspection , and one of them
bet with a prisoner called "Pony" that ho
had the smaller foot of the two. They left
It to Casper E. Yost to decide. He said
that the prisoner undoubtedly had the
smaller foot , but the bet was against the
outsider , because ho had the money and
could get out to buy the beer , and the *
prlsratr cca4 cat. The government had the
money was foot loose and could pay and
the Indian had not.
THE OMAHA "ALLOTMENT"
was made at Washington , on paper , but was
never enforced , the land lay Idle , and the
border whites used the pasturage when they
could free. Free grass , like free coinage ,
makes trouble. When the allotment scheme
was Invented It Is presumed the government
Intended that the Indians should live on
their "sovoraltles , " and under a wise and
honest agent If such an ono was over found
be taught practically to farm and ralso
their own crops , so as the sooner to become
citizens , In moro than the name , and the
moro speedily take care of themselves , In
dependent of government aid.
This was not done at once , especially In
the western end , consequently settlers used
the grass , or made ' arrangements with mem
bers of the tribe 'for cattle to run there.
This was too good a thing for somebody ,
and Mr. Farley , a white man , who had mar
ried Into the Omahas , and Mr. Tibbies , who
had married Farley's wife's sister , for the
good of the Indians , no doubt , argued that
as the whites were getting pasturage free ,
or at a nominal rental , the trlbs had bettor
lease Mr. Farley what was left of the tribal
lands , or unused alloted lands , and thus
derive a fixed and sure rental for the same.
This was In 1890 , and Mr. Farley ,
for himself and others , leased about
25,000 acres at the nominal rental
of 25 cents per aero until an allotment was
made In fact. Henry Fontenello and others
state that but five chiefs signed thess leases
of tribal lands ( the council should consist
of twelve ) and as they understood , wt-ro
signed from year to year until further dis
position was made officially of the land at
25 cents per acre per year. The lessees
sot up It Is so said that the leases are for
five years at 25 cents for the five yearn ,
which Is considered too low entirely and Is
one source of trouble Inside the tribe , The
whlto settlers want the allotment carried out
B'J the land will bo lived on , or can be
leased in smaller tracts and Improved , as
other lands In the county Is , and they have
some rights In the matter , for as this land
has been made part of Thurston county
( whether judiciously , In .the first place , or
not. It Is a fact now ) , and the Indian citizens
thereof , they all ought to have something
to say In the settlement , whites and reds
alike. On this ground they have petitioned
to have the allotment carried out time and
again , and it has ben promised them , but
by some occult Influence at Washington It
IB always put off until a moro convenient
teason ,
Th y openly charge that Miss Fletcher ex
erts part of tbla Influence lluouju her con
nection with the La KIcscUo Interest In the
tribe and by reason ot her long atandlng In
the department * , where he has posed as an
authority on whnt U best for Indians. This
is the Omaha case.
At the Wlnnebago agency an Illinois com
pany ( the riournoy company ) came In at
the same tlmo and leased for five years ,
on about the same lermx , as
has been told In The Bee. The only differ
ence Is that they have broken Up the land
In quarter sections and again sublet It to
white farmers. This suits the citizen cle
ment better. Trying , as directed , to
simply get at facts , your correspondent , with
out taking sides , has given a summary of
talks and views from different pirtlc.s , and
hero It Is charged by one or the other that
Captain Beck , the agent , Is trying to break
up the Flournoy company's leases , that a cer
tain O'Connor Ashford , the trader , and his
son may \n \ benefited , while on the other
hand ho favors Farley and Tibbies In re
taining their hold on the grass and ground
ot the Omahas. Officials have been sent out
hero from Washington to Investigate , but the
Pender people claim that Agent Beck hates
Pender for Interfering In any way on the
reserve , and thu Inspectors nio taken to the
agency , treated well , wlncd and dined , as
we would say , and no\er make a true report
of facts , but only as they are allowed to
see them. H would seem that the govern
ment should carry out the original plan to
settle the Indians , by allotment , abrogate all
leases , or If that Is not feasible , ECO that
the tribes receive the greatest benefit possi
ble from the lease of their lands , and the
whites Justice In sharing the expenses of
their common countrv.
As It Is they cannot make roads or bridges
on the reserve without the whlto portion
pays for It nil. The BlacKblrd Is not
bridged today on the main reid north , and
Is a horrible place to cross , bccausp the com
missioners won't build one , and the agent ,
or Indians , say they cannot. The Indians ,
as voters , can help saddle expenses on the
county , elect ofllccrs and reinitiate ono end
of the county while that end Is Improving
over the other. "Ill" Clias'e , a half-breed
Omaha , Is county judge now. Aside from
these 2.r > .000-acro leases the whltcJ claim
Just grievances arising from the mongrel
laws that made them a county.
For many years there have been two divi
sions In the Omaha tribe , the Fontenello
wing and the La Flcscho wing. Luclcn
rontetielle was a Now Orleans Frenchman ,
of good family , able to trace his lineage di
rectly to the nobility of France. He was a
member of the American Fur company when
It was at the height of Its glory. Ho started
the trading post at Beilevue , Neb. , which
afterward became ) so well known under
Peter Saipy. Ho was married to an Omaha
squaw by Father do Smet. Ho had four
BOIIS and one daughter , all born la the tribe ,
but educated elsewhere to the best ad
vantage. Ono of them , Logan , was the last
elected great chief of the tribe. "Old Bhck-
blrd" was the last great hereditary chief ;
after him the tribe elected for some years.
Logan was killed by the Sioux In 1855.
These boys , who expected In turn to share
some of Logan's glory and honors , are all
dead but Henry.
La Flescho was a Punkah half-breed , who
married Into the Omahas , and by securing
Mary , Nekoma's daughter , he placed him
self at once In a position to antagonize the
Fontenelles. As has been said , ho was
shrewd , secret , long-headed. Ho got him
self elected chief of one band , had his own
village and exercised great power during his
life.
life.The
The Fontenelles were wild fellows at
times and lost their Influence to some extent
at different periods. This did not tend to
Increased good will between the rival
powers.
The Omaha agency buildings have been
practically abandoned ot late jears. and the
residence of the agent nnd olflccs removed
to the Wlnnebago headquarters. So all the
late comers on the reserve from Washington
go there , find the La Flcsche family nearest
and have got all their story of the history of
the tribe Instead of the Fontenelles , or both.
Miss Fletcher , Rev. Mr. Dorsey , all of them ,
tell the La Fleschc side of tilings. But there
Is another side , and of course Henry Fonte-
nelle , who Is very sensible In the matter ,
docs not like this leasing of lands to men
who merely married Into the tribe to secure
this property ; or to outsiders , who have no
real love for the Omaha. As he says , "We
are In a transition state just now ; wo are
neither whites nor Indians ; wo shall just
have to wait as patiently as wo can till mat
ters are adjusted to the new order of things.
It's hard sometimes , but can't bo helped at
once. " Henry Is In favor of the tax bill and
the allotment , and Just as much liberty and
Improvement as the individual Indian will
bear and can use to advantage. It's a pretty
tangled situation , and our friend , Hoke
Smith , will have to use patience , persever-
enco and good judgment to unravel It all
satisfactorily to whites and Indians , without
doing more Injury to ono or the other than
has already been done by unwise moves on
both sides.
There Is much difference of opinion
whether , on the whole , an army ofllccr Is
the best agent for them or not. Once an
army officer would have been the thing , and
his Influence and discipline for good , but
after a series of years of civilians , and their
different systems , the rather harsh rule of
an old line captain Is unpopular. For wild ,
undisciplined tribes , wholly under govern
ment charge , the officer works In well , but
over these half-clvlllzed , half-cltlzened
tribes , almost white , the good-natured and
easier tempered politician agent gets along
with less friction. *
JOHN A. MacMURPHY.
THE CIIVC1.1L .irO.UK.Vr.
Somcrvlllc Journal.
Within the hammock's net she swung ,
So graceful and BO fair.
Her arms above her head vveie flung ,
Lovely beyond compare.
He sat bealdc her for a while ,
Enchanted by bor grace.
Till finally a blush nnd smile
Ho saw upon her face.
And then he heard her softly say ,
First looking all ubuut :
"Now , plcabo , Tom , turn your head uvvay ,
I'm going to get out ! "
tOAA UHI
Josephine Valentino , an Italian girl of
Newark , N. J. , sacrificed nn Inheritance of
$100.000 the other day by marrying the man
whom her father , a banker , wanted to veto ,
and who bears the somewhat remarkable
name of Cannlno Amore.
Minnie Here is a story about a girl who
refused to marry a man because his com
plexion didn't match her hair. Mamie
aoodness ! The silly thing must have
thought that married people had to bo to
gether most of the tlmo.
A Milwaukee woman wanted a divorce
from her husband but could not afford to
pay for such a luxury. In this dilemma
she confided In her mate or mlsmate and
lie , In order to accommodate her , promptly
committed suicide.
The engagement of the handsome young
khedlvo of Egypt to Ermine , youngest daugh
ter ot the lite Sultan Abdul Aziz and a
Turkish beauty of 1C , calls for congratula
tions. This Is a love mutch with great In
cidental advantages from a diplomatic stand
point and by way of contributing further to
the felicity ot tire arrangement the marriage
Is strongly favored by the khwllvo's. mother.
A young couple were married by a Jus-
tlco of the peace in Jersey City the other
day. At the conclusion of the ceremony
the bridegroom , either through a sudden at
tack of nervousness or In a moment of for-
gettulness , brought about by supreme hap
piness , omitted to KIss the bride. At the
wedding breakfast she sulked , positively re
fused to go to the homo which her husband
liad prepared for her , and has slnco re-
lected all offers ot reconciliation.
John Beatty , grocer's clerk of Elizabeth ,
N. J. , loved Annie Sloan , the pretty niece
of his employer. Annie Sloan loved John
Beatty. Uncle was willing , the wedding
dress was made by the bride's own fair
hands and everybody In Ell7abeth agreed
that no prettier w ddlng dress ever adorned
a morn beautiful bride. The wedding night
was set , the guests Invited , the preacher
engaged. The hour of 8 o'clock came , but
the bridegroom , who had gone home to get
lilH Huppor and don his wedding suit , came
not , A messenger dispatched to the homo
of the absent John returned with the news
that John was t curely locked In ono room
and his wedding trousem In another , while
his mother , with both keys In her pocket ,
was declaring that Johnny wouldn't get
married until he had secured her consent ,
which hr had forgotten to ask. The wed
ding didn't como off that night.
Rock Springs Is to have a now dally paper
In the near future.
Little drops of water
Vista Water
Make a mighty ocean of
Vista Water
Little grains of mineral in
Vista Water
Make a body healthy , docs
Vista Water
Ditolorn proscribe It
Kxcryboily itrlnkn It.
HelUrroil .it your house
FrcHli o\ cry day.
Telephone 13110.
VISTA MlNKKAb 91111X03 CO. ,
ni''S. I''lh si. , Omaha.
UolUorctt
\
EJeirietlies
Awarded Highest Honors at the
World's Fair.
LA rrtncKLA
Guaranteed to euro any case of fifUdes In ex-
Ifirnce 1'rloe , ? l 10 iifr bottle.
nxcni.sion COMPLEXION in.nAcic
riuni.iiitccil to lomovc all rl.ln blunlilicn. Prloo
j:00 per l.ottlo.
OH RAT SCOTT !
The only perinnnrnt cuio for Bupcrfluoui hair
on recoul Pilcc , SI ° 0.
nxcni.sion HA IK TOXIC
Turni Rtiy linlr biifl : to Its nnturnl color with
out djoj stops It fulling In Iwimty-four hours ;
cieatos a luxuriant growth ; absolutely wonder
ful. Pilce. 1100 per botllf ; * U fur J5 00.
ixcni.sioR nt.oon TO.SMC
Acts nn thu HMT lira ! lilooil ; cleanses the com
plexion ; best spring medicine known. Price.
tl.OO per Lottie ; elx for r > .00.
THADE Food. " MAUK-
Guaranteed to make the neck , bust and arma
plump , flrm and brunt If ill. Trlcu , fl.60 and
> 1 00 two Rlzns. t
UXCCLSIOn HAND WHITKNnn
Mnltoi the hnmls Illy white , t-ott and beauti
ful. 1'ilcc , Jl 00 per bottle.
AIMOND BLOSSOM COMPLEXION1 CUEASI
CloanslnK , honllng , coollnir , pootlilns nnd re-
frP3hlnK perfect gem for the toilet ; no lady
uliould be w Ithout It. 1'rlco , JI.OO per Jar.
MOLE AND WART EXTRACTOR
Guaranteed to rcmmc nny case of moles and
nnrts u Ithout Injury ; leiues no scars or marks.
Price , J3 00.
Mall orders shipped on day they are received.
M. Yale ,
OK J1KAOTV.
J2J-S State-St. , GVilcago ,
SOLD AY ALL DRUGGISTS ,
d FULL LING CARRIED DY
KtJHN > t CO. , IMh nnd Douglas streets.
MERCHANT & VICICERS , IGth nnd Howard ;
KINKI.KH DRUO CO , IClh nnd rnrnnm ; W.
J. I1UG1IEH , 21th unit nirnam ; GEOIiQD S.
DAVIS. Council Illufffl. and by ull tlrueelsts.
Ily vlioli-sale by E E. DRUCE & CO , and
1UC1IARDSON DUUQ CO. , Omaha.
Teeffi Without Plates.
Tcotli extracted In
tlio mnrnlriK , now
tenth before dark )
full Hut * r > CO ; IltKuur-
iint c < l ; Hold fillings ,
J. ! ! sllvor Jl ; palulcsi
extraction Me.
Bailey , Reliable Dentist ,
Tlilrdl'loor , I'axtnn lllock , intli and Farnam
Tuluphunu 10Kr > .
Lady attendant. Uorinnn Suolcan.
PARROTS.
YOUHO CU1IAN PAIinOTS
ha\o arrived. Price , only Jl
each. Do not forget that
tbcBo fiuorcd parrots are but
n few woolts tvt-ry year In
season , and that you cannot
obtain parrots during any
other time for less thun 112.
Order nulck and secure a
fc-ooil selection. Each parrot
sold with a written cuaran *
tea to talk.
GEISLER'S BIRD STORE ,
4ION. lOtli , Oinuliii.
SEARLES
& SEARLES
SPECIALISTS
Chronic
WE Nervom
Private
AND
CURB Special
Diseases ,
TREATMENT BY MAIL. CONSULTATION FREC ,
Catarrh * All Dlsoasoa of the Noao ,
Throat , Ghost , Stomach. Liven Dlootl
Skin and Kidney Dluonooo , Lost
Manhood and ALL PRIVATE DI3-
bASES OF MEN-
Call on or u < Wrtnu ,
Dr , Searles & Soarlei ,
firnohl's Hronio-tieiery.
.
) CINIIUi AIIIVUJUI. ARllUQltt IOT AlcvnUJlU
ml ( illior BICOUCO. rrlco , 10 , 26 * ud 6U conU.
THE ARNOLD CHEMICAL CO.
151 S. Western A nn . CMICACfr
JTor tale by all drufgcUU , Omaha * - -