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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 13, 1893)
liUZABETIIAN COLLAR AGAIN The Hoada and Necks of "omen lo Bejk ! ; Imagined and Not Seen , HOW TO KEEP GLOVES IN GOOD SHAPE lorn * IllnU m to tti * IMnonllon of the Child Alt Abont Sn pendon 1'Kililon Mutr-i AThnt Women Krery. rrliero Are Doing , 4 Along with the reports of Proncli ul timatums and other nwosomo sounding things , there comes from Pnrls the thrilling information that not only women's foot but their necks also are to bo Incased in wonderfully stiffened , flaring stuns , says the Now York World. Not only nro their skirts to bo extended to monstrous proportions by haircloth nnd wire , but their collars ns well. The Elizabethan rulT is returning ! Along with the skirts of the curly Victorian or a and the sloping shoulders that our grand mothers loved , n style from the time when Bacon was laboriously writing Shnkospcaro's plays is to bo added to the feminine costume of the year of grace 181W. And yet most women" " would object to being called a thing of shreds and patches. Every ono who has dllllgcntly at tended the theater knows what the Ellzubothtin collar is. It is usually worn by nny royal lady irrespective of the oxnct period in which she flourished. It will also bo remembered by thuo who lovingly bcunnod tlio pictures in their "Konlf worth" as more u part of good Queen Boss's commanding a , poarance thnn many crowns nnd sceptres would have been. It began n little below the base of the neck in the back and flared up and back for the height of n foot or so. Sometimes the sides simply sloped somewhat. Sometimes they were sopur nto pieces , equal in height und conceal Ing power. They were always us rigid and unyielding us sheet iron , for the stuffs of which they were made were lined as skirts uro now. And they were further stiffened with jewels and embroidery. Illstory neglects to say whether Queen Elizabeth adopted this collar for the purpose of concealing some queenly blemish , as so many of her successors have adopted other things. Whether i was to her what the side-saddle was to Queen Anne , or what her necklace is to the Princess of Wales , Is not certain But if she had anything to conceal ii the nape of her neck were not all tha could bo desired , if the slope of her hea ( did not meet her ideas of grace am beauty , if bho wished , so far as she could to hide the color of her hair from tht world , she could have taken no more ef fectual means of concealment. With tlio Eli7.ubothun collar the bncl of one's neck may bo something to mnk r artists weep ; the baok of one's head ma ; . A. , bo something to drive phrenologists tc suicide ; one's ears may lluro , one's collu bones bo undulv prominent , but an un kind world will never know it. Th Elizabethan collar should therefore se cure a largo and enthusiastic clientele. The report from Paris is a little in- complete. It does not state whether in all places , at all times and on nil people the collar is to bo worn. Whether Mrs. Cleveland will have her ball gown and Buby Ruth's nurbo her street dress thus ornninontod or not is a little doubtful. But It Is generally bafo to assume thut whatever comes from Paris on a re ception dross will eventually find its way to shopping undi working clothes. The clerk who already listens with superb indifference to one's request for salmon colored ribbon will assume an air of still greater disdain when she in cases her head in the collar of the early seventeenth century. The girl who sits at the telegraph operator's ' desk will hour the little ticks loss accurately through the silk and wire and crinoline , and will probably scare some unfor tunate wife into gray hairs by translat ing the harmless "dine out tonight" Into a suicidal "die out tonight. " One's simple order for tea and toast will sound more pitiful than over when a ( jueonly young person with her head ribing out of tlio voluminous folds of the Eliza bethan rulT takes It. Will dross reformers also ndopt it ? It compresses no part of the human frame. It affords a fine Hold for the rich jewelry and embroidery effects thut Mrs. Jon- ness lliller advocates. Will it take its place ut the top of the "Syriun" und the "business woman's" suits ? Will bicy clists wear it ? Will the skirt dancer , the movement of whobn head is so largo a part of her performance , find it a great inconvenience ? These uro ull serious problems , but not BO great , perhaps , as those which will confront the managers of public conveyances and places of amusement when the Elizabethan colltir becomes r condition instead of u theory. To skirts occupying six yards of floor space am shoulders three yards wide the fomlnliK population is now about to ndd collurs o Htupondous size. Any small chin ik through which to view will now bo losi to the man who sits behind any womar ut the theater. With a solid wall o puffed sleeves , surmounted by wide ilir lars , before him , ho will bo able to houi nothing at the concert. Wedged in bo twcen two such attires in the train or 01 the cur ho is helples-i until one of then moves. Even in church he will bo un able to see the lines in his hymn nb with his wife's Elizubethun collur ob scurlng his right und his daughter's hi . left eye. It will probably become neeot nary to huvo Roparato sides rcborved fo tlio masculine and feminine portions o the audience or congregation , as it wn in the good old ilayn. These tire u few of the practical dill cultlos in the wav of the Eli/.abothu collar , whluh nourished before in a tlm when space was not M ) limited or time a valuable or styles in droas so wldel copied. But to offset thobO trilling ol jeutions uro the facts that it is "so pii turesquo , " "HO stately" und thut it coming from Paris. A young woman , who for two montl : has been flitting from one hummer r Bert to another , came up to town ot ) cool day hint week. Her purpose wj shopping. Her mien as she took lein ofa bevy of "summer girls , " with who iho wits chummy , was tragic. "Isn't it horrid to have to go to tl city ? " bhe said , and her tones woi Ecornful. "I'm going to slay tonigl with Stollu Brown. Poor girl ! SI stiiyeil up In the city with her father n luinmur. Awfully devoted , I suppo * but it's hard on her. I'll ' be buck t morrow. Oh , sure ! Goodbyl" But she did not return the next da tier the next , nor the next. On tl L/ fourth day she appeared , bearing mai bundles in her arms und n look of dei melancholy on her face. Her frien spied her from the end of the long i az/.ti und bore down on her like a lloi of guy butterflies. "Oil , you poor thing ! " "Aren't you moat dead ? " "Givo us your bundles. Why did' fou have them Bent ? " "No , I'm not most , dead , but I so will bo , " was the response in Bomb tones. "Take carol Thut'u a tou-pou ' box of ohocohitc-8. Dickey Bro\ \ Brought it to the train. And thut marelimallows from Johnny Onion. And that Is rosesI forgot who sent 'om. There's n civrd , I guess. And there nro llk flnr3 In that bundle. Jack Tar miid I COllld decorate my room with thorn and oil , olii Oh't ' wiuit to grt brti'kl" The summer girl B ? TO < 1. Iff t o hc.it , " whispered ono. ' 'tPs affected ho ? head. " But the illsconiolntci young womnn souk Into n chair ahd smiled n rueful Binllo. "I made tidlwovory in town , " she said. "I discovered the real ' .stlinmorglrl.1 It Isn't either you or I. Wo are gay , but wo are deceivers. Stella Drown" the speaker paused and rolled her eyes heavenward "to think that 1 pitied the glrll Why , she is'lmvlng such a , good time that she is fairly Intoxicated with it. She has lost her head. If she hadn't uho would liavo boon careful that I should not find out the true state of things. You know I spoke of her devo tion to her father. Pretty idea wasn't it ? Well , if you could see her lounging in a hammock on the roof every night , with about ten youncr men vowing they 'never heaven before ' and were t > o near , that perfect maid of hers bringing trays of hopelessly delicious drinks and the colored lanterns shedding the most be coming glow over everything oh , devo tion ! "Oh , yes , her father was there , bless his dear old soul ! I wonder if Daddy won't ' go back to town next week ? The old gentleman smoked his cigar and dozed over in n distant corner , and lent nn air of respectability to tlio whole thhig. "Every day there was a procession of messenger boys bringing flowers , fruit , candy , books , music to play on the gui tar at night on the roof ! As for n rainy night , there are more men than everbc- cause they can't go to the roof gardens. They all go down to the kitchen and make Welsh rarebit and molasses candy. And Stella puts on a big gingham apron and looks as domestic as u pan of bis cuits. You know how effective that is. The girl has lost her head or she never would have let mo stay three nights. But if D.vddy will only go back to town , I'll be on the ground next week , and then there'll bo ono more truly summer girl. " There is little doubt tbat vho richts of the parent do infringe occasionally on the rights of the child , writes Agnes " Kopplior in the North American"Re view , and that , in the absence of any standard , the child becomes a creature of circumstance. Ho can bo fed unwholesomely - wholesomely , kept up late tit night , drcsjcd like Lord Fauntloroy , dosed with pernicious drugs , nnd humored into sclllsh petulance at the discretion of hii- mother. Worse still , ho can bo suffered to wnsto away in fever pain and die be caiibO the parents chance to be fanatics who reject the aid of medicines to trusf exclusively in prayer. But granting ul this , fathers and mothers have still their places in the world , and until wo can HI" thosio places with something butter it ii worth while to call attention now and then to the useful part they play. It i perhaps a significant fact that mothers simply because they are mothers , sue' coed bettor , as a rule , in bringing nil their children than other women , equal ! loving and bcnsible , who are compollei to assume their duties. That old fashioned plea "I kno\v what is boat fo my child" may bo derided as a relie o darkness , but there is an illuminating background to its gloom. I am not oven sure that parents stand in absolute need of all the good advice they receive. I am quite sure that many trifles uro not worth the serious counsels expended upon them. Reading or tolling a story , for instance , has ' become as grave a matter as choosing a laureate , and many a mother must stand aghast at tlio conflicting / - flicting admonitions bestowed up6n.lier. Read fairy tales. Don't read fairy tales. Read about olvosn Don't read about ogres. Read of liqroic deeds. Don't ' road of bloody battles. Avoid too much instruction. 'Bo as subtly instructive as yon can. Make your stories long. Work the moral in. Leave the moral out. Try nnd please the older children. Try and charm the younger ones. Study the tastes of boys. Follow the fancies of girls By deproos the harassed parent who endeavors to obey the o in structions will cease telling stories at nil , confident that the task , which once seemed so simple and easy , must lie for beyond her limited intelligence. Blouse waists are in high favor and take on numerous styles and names. Wo have had the Russian blouse , in imi - tation of the Russian peasantry , with its long iloaiico , lace trimmed or plain , and now wo have the blouses without the llouneoB , high in the neck , with band or collar , or cut low to reveal the throat , as fancy dictates though it is not usualy fancy , but the whiteness or roundness of the throat , that settles that question. The birplico is greatly h favored , being most becoming to a full figure and to one of meager development , , a positive boon. It drapes itself to the n former , giving an added grace , and on the latter makss its own curves and : fullness , deceiving the beholder and giving unwonted satisfaction to the of wearer. Any seasonable stuff can 10o used for the example of the illustration st which has a tight lining fastening in the center. The loft side laps over and the inof blouse is cut down in the front. It is il- trimmed with a bias fold of material edged with n wide ruffle nnd a narrow o- ono at the neck. The sleeves have twc om putTs and a long culT. Tlio folded boll in fastens with a rosette at the side. The n- shirt waist Is another form and is made nk perfectly plain , or is tucked and frilloi b- as the table decides. Tlio blouse is alb b.is made to wear over the bolt of the sklr is- ; with a little llounco depending or to boa isor bolt with dotaoha or placed under the skirt of bio bolt to confine it. Old skirts nowl iy ; as made over are brought Into use by tin aid of the blouse and skirts whosi 111- waists and sleeves are worn out can llm 111un a now lease of life thereby. Then , soim no of your old skirts being too scant for tin HO present season , you can make into ily bloiibo , providing they alTord muteriu b- for big sleeves. Make the sleeves firs ic- and then the bloiibo , biirplico or shir ! icis i according lo your cloth. Economy a well as convenience helps to keep thi btylo of waist in favoi with those cart hs worn creatures who are forever tren ro- bllng on the ragged edge of havin I10 pobltlvely nothing to wear. " 'a.s * * ivo Almost every woman has some artlol , om of clothing of which she is cspechtll I fond. Nine times out of ten it is bomi the thing she has devised hoi'bolf as a bill ere Htitute for what is worn bv her loan ii jht ventive sisters. For instance , 01 iho bin-inking young woman , who won ! all almost rather bo wicked than stron IbO , minded , goes about with her small fc < to done up in boys' boots of the sturdiei variety. She says they are more con , fortable , three times as durable , ai the quite as neat us the so-culled btroi : walking bhoob for ladles. She wea my L'Op the daintiest and mobt flexible nds feminine house shoes , but for a walk c tlio pavements she will have nothli but boys' boots. Another woman of'more advanci years , in fact she is on the bhudy vide 50 , wears white hulbriggan hose and h 1'nt worn them ever since Bho was n chil Fashions come and go , but it does n eon ulter her fancy. For years the goi bor woman has not been able to give h und skirts a tidy lift on a rainy any , ) > ecuu iwn she was ut the wrong end of the col tlu lino. But she cherished u belief th black I fttocklnga tnido her weak , so she dragged her petticoats with stern per- Blstonco , strong in th * consciousness of her 1 undyed hose. Closely allied to the hose 1 nro the elastics. There are two varieties of this useful a-tldo , the round garter and the suspender. A woman who wears n round jfftrtor is n thorn to ono who wears n euflpondor , nnd vlro vorpa. Friendships liiivo been > vrcckbu thereby. Health Is the watchword of the suspender faction ; beauty Is the boast of the garter trlbo. Ono proud woman serenely claims to have solved the dllllculty by uniting the two. She wonrs suspenders but such suspenders ! This Is the way she makes them : If they are to bo of light blue she takes the hooks and clasps ( she has solid silver ones ) and sows those which catch the stockings to blue ribbons , with co quettish baws just above the silver , ThcbO two ribbons ( for there nro two clasps to ono stocking-of course , ) nro fastened together with another bow at the buckle. The piece which extends from the buckle to the bolt is of blue silk elastic. This is stretched to its full length , und while thus extended , a strip of blue ribbon is sowed ever it. When the oiustlo Is released it shortens , of course , ( luting the ribbon in the process. This mukcs n suspender which will silence the most ardent advocates of the beauty of the round garter. The woman who labors under the do- luslon that she has done her duty to her hands when she has bought a pair of " " " " "sixes" or "six-und-a-quarters" in a presentable shade is making a grievous error. She should always carefully examine - amino her gloves , seeing to it that the kid in the side finger pieces and the triangle at the thumb Is as firm and as flexible ns that at the wrists ; that tlio thumb-piece is long and broad enough ; that the lingers nro neither too short nor too long , nnd the bund of the glove largo enough to prevent the palm from folding into creases. Tlio glove Is the most forcible example of the adage about treoi growing as the twig is bont. If the glove is put on for the first tirno carelessly , with seams awry und finger ends not snug , it is hopeless to try to smooth it out at a sub sequent wearing. The scums will bo twisted nnd the lingers baggy so long us the glove endures. This is the reason it is wise to have the gloves first put on by the firm , experienced hunds of a fitter. If this is impossible , the tusk must bo undertaken ut home when there is plenty of time. The gloves must be carefully pressed on , every scum straight , every gusset in its right place ; the tips of the fingers smooth and the wrist perfectly adjusted. Then it should bo buttoned with the finest glove btittonor , from the bottom. If a glove which has been prop erly worked on will not button from the bottom , it is too small. The key to the proper mental cultiva tion of u child will bo found in the proper understanding of the nervous sys tem of childhood. The chief churnctor- Istic of that system is its extreme im pressibility. The brain of a child is a cuinora , n God-made camera of exquisite delicacy. Along the nerve strands and through the nerve cells of the child im pulses travel and are rejected with the freedom and rapidity of lightning , un hindered , unimpeded by the inhibitory mechanisms which control the nervous system of the adult. Impressions , whether of good or evil , are easily made , but are deep and lasting. In the training , then , of the youthful intellect it is all important that the im pulses which travel along the delicate nerve strands , that thosigbtsand sounds which reach the young sonsorium should bo such only ns leave impressions of the good nnd the noble. In connection with this subject there has recently appeared in the pages of the Lancet a most interesting and sug gestive paper. It is from the pen of Dr. Gay , and is of especial importance in these days of cram and pressure educa tion. After pointing out that each func tion of the body is represented in the bruin or spinal cord by a corresponding center or headquarters from which the parts performing the function receive command , and that in the adult these centers are controlled , damped , or , if I might use the expression , more or loss vetoed by what I have already referred to as the inhibitory mechanism of the nervous system , Dr. Guy bays : "That although the centers for the vaiious functions of the body are developed bp- fore their controlling mechanism , it is of grout importance that development of inhibition should preserve a certain defi nite relationship to the development of function. In precocious children it gen erally , if not always , happens that de velopment of function proceeds at such a rate that inhibition does not preserve its relative position in the process , and lags behind. " Thus the characteristic of precocity is instability. And so it is often with genius , of which precocity may bo sup posed to bo the youthful equivalent. In hibition frequently fails to keep pace with excessive development of function. It is inhibition power of control which o parents should seek to cultivate in chil , dren , rather than development of func tion , for this is possible later in life , whore-as control , once lost , may never bo regained. The importance of the recognition of the fact that centers develop ahead of their appropriate inhibitory apparatus cannot bo overestimated. Not only does it explain the instabil ity of the infant's brain but It empha sizes perhaps , more than anything else < the folly of forcing the minds of the rt young. By BO doing a most certain < foundation is laid for the development of a- neurosis which may mar the whole sub- bequcnt lifo of the individual. The fact 1C that girls uro generally more precocious se than boys would suggest thnt greatot cure Is necossury in their training , foi proportionately with their precocity there is an increased liability to chorea liea i hysteria , and other nervous uffcctlom ial having their foundation in defect of usn st hibition. nd rt To conclude with the concluding ad as vice of Dr. Guy , "Restruin a precoelou Us child , do not cram a backward one , bu with judicious education of the mind le nt- them Indulge in healthy recreation am [ develop their motor centers before thos of a much higher lovol. " I'liHlilonVoteI , Luminous blue shades will load th _ fashionable colors. lib- Smocking is u popular decoration fo iii- both Binull boys' und girls' dresses. iiimo : There scorns to bo no doubt tha nut biioquos will again bo fashionable. nig Dots of all sizes and nil colors uro t UOt he lavishly sprinkled ever the now fnl est goods. Skirts huvo shown a disposition to d ( ind : crcufco rather thun to increase ; sleeve ing uro subsiding. urn A vest und full shoulder puffs of ga : of flowered brocade is added to toilets i on black sutln or faille. Cropon effects In cumol's-hiilr wcavt cod will appear , nnd whipcords , diagonal of English sorgos und Henriettas will con lias in for u good share of patronage. ild. The now gold und bronze beading 1 not used to brighten black silk gowns , at oed rich term cottti and gold galleons uho her hundtioinely on black luce dresses. life It will bo u relief to the woaro lor thereof , nnd to tha community ut lurg. . hut when Dutuo Fashion decides to romo\ the cut-up fuwy glngorbroad work from her skirts and bixilcey A stylish glnglmtA-dxess for a small b'oy who still plays with his sister's doll has n row of gmockjlw hcross the yoke and the material Is'Mwismocked ' at the watsl to form a wide bolt. A characteristic Teaturo of the son- pa'e ( ftUi0 3 to thejuej of nil kinds of thin black tnaiur'uifL'jiii combination with colors nnd , moi-o striking nnd beau tiful still , with a decnnxtlon of whtto. Accordion plaltlngjatfjo craze by which nil the midsummer materials sulTcr. A rumor from tho-gity French capital suggests thut the pluUyig will continue to bo the rngo throijjj yjit the autumn. WnlstcDntsof rlbbju ro just appear1 Ing in the shops. AJi ' nro made of seven ribbons stltcliml togQthor , with overlapping edges , three for the back and four for the front , and are fastened invisibly at the loft side. Stylish dressmakers are now composing - ing handsome cropon gowns in golden brown rosndn , and tan shades , finishing them along all their edges with line cut jot gimps , and adding silk guipure lauo trimmings on the co-sago. Skirts of black satin ui'o cut to fall in godot or funnel-shaped pleats in the back" , whllo the fronts nro closply gored , and the whole trimmed with rows of jot of graduated width , the narrowest row at the top being merely a glittering lino. lino.Ono Ono of the gauzy gowns in somber hue is made drossy and elegant by the addi tion ot three whlto luce flounces above the hips , fulling from a bolt of jot. The bodice , shirred abavo the bust , shows a yoke of lace , and lace rufllos full over the sleeves. Tar tun plaid gauze is n novelty used in trimming black or brown sailor hats. It is bright and effective , and not so ovoro as the ribbon band. A twist of the guuzo encircles the crown , nnd three wide loops nnd u knot are ar ranged ut the side. The womnn who is in mourning may hnvo n manicure sot in black if she wnnts it. The polisher , file and powder- box are of objny. with a slight decora tion in silver. They are arranged on a heart-shaped tray of ebony , und look Bombro onoujrh for the most depressing occasions. Lace parasols in black or whlto uro favorite wedding gifts , und should bo accompanied by n pretty parasol case a long narrow bag of satin drawn together at the top by satin ribban.s. The cuso is lined with silk , and between the two folds of mutoriul" the violet sachet is laid. Most of summer the ! dross bonnets are more airy nothings of lace and flowers incapable of affording any protection against sun or wind. Were it not u matter of custom , ono might dispense with summer bonnets altogether with out being in the least inconvenienced by their absence. A dainty sot of shirt studs is made of pale blue enamel , in the shape of u for- cet-me-not. Spnrklinc from the center , like u drop of dewIB n tiny diamond. Each stud is connected with the other by a line silver cliuin. ' ' 'Link ' cuff buttons como in the sumo design , but the forgot- ine-nots uro much larger. Drap d'Alma , a very ? fine fancy diag onal , will beamongitliQpopular autumn fabrics , also satin faiituisio , un nil-wool material with self-colored oval dots and splinters. The go6da are rich in ap pearance and will' ' withstand any dam age from water spots. They nro also soft , pliable , and "thus " easily manipu lated. t r. A pretty dress for.a maiden of 4 is made of blue olmmbray with the yoke outlined by smocking. The material hangs straight and lull from the yoke and is trimmed at | li'e ? , Ottom'Svith four rows of smocking ap4 B ruffle of lace. The sieovo to "this bub.y dross is com fortably full linfslied with two rows of smocking us u cuff. The bodices of many dressy Biunmor gowns are cut pointed or slightly round ing to show a bit of the neck , securing coolness nnd comfort to the wearer. Others are made particularly high and finished oil with a Pierrot ruche in blacker or white pleated tulle , which , though very fashionable , is exceedingly uncomfortable to wear this sultry weather. The new cropons are mostly shot and showered with silken spots to match ono or the other of the component tints. Some of the shot canvas fabrics arc very beautiful , and satin canvas quito a novelty hns a fancy shot ground scattered over with arabesque designs. Ttioso are trimmed with sleeve-pull's , girdle , and collar of " 'mirror" ' velvet. A little later the embryonic man will appear in a blouse and trousers of navy blue , with the nuttiest bows and buckles ut the knee , a buckle at the belt , und a big sailor collar of scarlet , with broad [ and narrow braid of blue. Tlio hut will bo scarlet , too , if his mother has nn eye for the picturesque , und it will bo shoved well back from the curly bung and sun-browned face. Ono of the notable gowns worn this season is in palo indigo batiste delaino , trimmed about the hips with throe plait- ings of cardinal crepe sot on with n band of black velvet. The nock is formed of a square of velvet , from which the frills of cardinal fall in the form of u yoke ; the bolt and the trimming at the bottom ol the skirt are each formed of u single row of volvot. Fewer und fewer are the people who in putting on mourning for lost rela tives choose crepe in any of its forms i3t , qualities. The great majority of host people simply put on all black. Fine soft luck-lustor bluok fabrics nro se lected , plum or very rich , ns the purse - allows , and in very many cases no long veils of oven silk veiling are worn aftoi the funeral , but plain short fnco veils arof net or lisse. ofm . , The woman whoso financial conditioi , will allow buys her hairpins by the otb. six small hulrplns und one high comb - A sot of rare bounty consists of tortoise . shell hnlrpins.each pno bearing upon it - top a filigree gold.ttturThe largo huh1 win , which is rci < ll'U > ooinb , is sot will a row of Btars across the top. Who the small hairpins lira fastened in th U1 hair the effect is 'e ' tl'cinoly pretty. so < A now idea fen a photograph cuso 1 founded on u fan. * Any satin or silk fa may bo used. Anlund the top plitco row of full blown artificial roses. In th ho center of each fasten1 mimoUo phot ( graph. It muy Ijo hold in plueo by lor tiny gilt nail , or a , stitch of thread wi secure it. The potula should form iat , pretty frame for uucfo picture. Lot th fun hang from the Avail by wide sail ribbons which tie in ' bow whore the ill are brought over jthdnail , Mrs. John Jacob-Aetor , who Is woa lo- ing half mourning .this . season , has jui laid some exquisite'-curriugo costuim 'OS inudn up. Among them is a dross pr sonting u very novel effect. It is con uy posed of mulberry-colored silk , the ski of trimmed wHh flounces bordered by sprigged pattern in velvet , the sprl L'OS consisting of violets and white pansie , The flounces are finished on the cilj mo by n row of fringe having u netted hou ing ornamented ut intervals by tunu Is puusicB. mil There are quaint little smocks ow washable silk or linen in dainty cole or in white , smocked acro&s the brcu era and ut the belt with fine necdlewor > and finished at the wrist like the shi JVO sleeve masculine. And with this tl coming man will wear fine llttlo pocks of silk , leaving his chubby kncos bare nnd brown. A big Bailer hat , with whlto ribbons , sits on the baok of his hcnd and stays there by some fixed principle of gravitation unknown to the grown-up mind , or rather head , which roqulre.s nny number of long pins to soouro a hat in the satno position. Vonilnlne Nntv > . The General Federation of Womon'j clubs includes two foreign organiza tions , the "Bombay Soroils" of India , nnd the Woman's Educational Society of Coylon. " An Oregon , 111. , woman is making a crazy quilt of the Bilk tics that hnvo been 1 given her by her devoted admirers , Her ] pillows are to bo stuffed with their love 1 letters. 'iho duchess do Malllo Is always roc- ognlzcd in the Bois do Boulogne uy her immense j conch. It dates from the last century and U equipped with postilions and i outriders In livery. MIs.s Pauline Whitney , the daughter of , the ox-seerctiiry of the navy , has gene to \ Europe to study art. Her friends say that 1 her greatest ambition is to bo able td i paint a true ploturo of her mother. Archcrv is so popular nnumir English women that they huvo a Hoyal To.vo- phlllto society. It is said that the bow women of n few years ago would not bo oven among the second class shots of to day. day.Lady Lady Amhcrst has distinguished her noble name by admission to the honorary list of turners. She has extraordinary skill as a manipulator of the lathe , ami her house is full of specimens of , her work. Baroness do Rothschild has n summer homo homo called Prugny , a beautiful place on the shores of Lake Geneva. She lias her own special yacht , La Gltnnu , which lies at anchor under u lofty nat ural vault. There are now live schools of medicine in England whore women may obtain admission Oxford , the University of Glasgow , Queen Margaret's college , the Edinburgh School of Medicine , and St. Andrew's Surgeon Square school. The latest in summer girls is Mibs Edna Moody of Lcwiston , Mo. , who mounted u telegraph polo and pressed her lips to the wires , thus sending a kits by telegraph to her best beloved , who is a telegraph operator in Now York. Mine. Rhca has joined the sinull but conspicuous number of distinguished women who have taken unto themselves boyish bridegrooms. Mine. Rhcu is about -15 years old , while her husband Mr. W. F. Hart , her leading man , is only 2. " ) . Mrs. John G. Carlisle , wife of Secre tary Carlisle , is a BSuthornor by birth. She is tall , dark and dignified. On the woman suffrage question she is very positive positive against it. This fact makes her somewhat unpopular with the wives of the western senators , who like to feel that the women of the cabinet uro for equal suffrage. Dlt is said that the third finger was chosen for the wedding ring because of the idea that a-vein ran straight from it to tlio heart. Another tradition says that as the bridegroom said the words. "In the name of the Father1 ho hold the ring sit the thumb , "of the Son , " at the first linger , und so on until , ut the "Amen'vit had reached the third finger. There is a very clover organization of women in Jersey City , which is known by the title , "Tho Odd Volume club. " At its meetings the members neither do- Biro nor permit themselves to present nny matter that is not strictly now , which gives some possible idea of the club's collective und individual prowess in the field of the intellectual. "Now that you have progressed thus far , " cautioned Mrs. Florence IIowo Hale , in n recent address to a signally successful woman's club , "be very care ful that you don't hinder those who are behind you. You know that when wo are hurrying to got on or ofi. the ferryboats it is always the people in front who are in the way. Therefore , don't ' lot your being ahead keep back those who u"ro yet in the rear. " About two years ago the Misses Clapp , who were noted whist players in their native city of New Orleans , cumo north and imbued the women of Philadelphia. New York and Boston with u like affec tion for the scientific game. This they did by means of various classes in whist , at which the members were not only taught rules und principles , but how to apply them. Since that time genuinely good whist has become much moro com mon among women. A novel parrot , possessing , according to tlio advertisement , powers of mimicry and a vocabulary of fifty words , is for sale in London , but no gentlemen need apply. The precocious fowl is destined to puss into the keeping of a woman or never to change its owner. Why ? Well , .Tames Puyn suggests that the bird may have hung in u drawing-room where , for a long time , it has listened to the after- dinner talk of the ladies , who now lear u betrayal of their secrets. Tlio Women's Protective and Provi i- ii dent League of Glasgow has l > eon in i- vestigating the laundries of the princi ie ii pal Scottish cities. The girls there have been found to average from twelve to fif fo teen hours a day for six days of the week. In ono cabc a girl was paid ut the , rnto of 0 shillings a week , and she worked from 8 a. in. on Friday until 10:30 : p. in. the following day , the onlj - intervals being an hour for dinner , one r for breakfast , and time to take borne tea It.r Mrs. Lllllo Dovoroux Bluko is lectur ing , trying to nrouso public interest rIn - the approaching constitutional conveiv tion in the state of Now York This convention , for the amend' ing of the constitution , is only culle ; ( once in twenty yours , and is , therefore u highly important ono. Mrs. Blulu bollovos there bhould bo a strong concerted cortod effort to huvo the word "male,1 : b. us it applies to voters , stricken from tin .0- constitution , and that proper delegate its should bo present ut the convention ti irth insist upon tills change. th Loio Fuller has been in London , am en : some of the critics are now pieoing tt ho gothor tlio vocabularies they tore to 10m tors for her bake. Ono poor , lone man is all by Ills unaided self , and in just tw ann paragraphs , wild that bho was "wondot n fill , mystic , bewildering , undulating ; he that her driiportos were of "Jinormou toU amplitude , " mid wore "divinely diaphai U OUHJ" Unit she wus "u fairy , " "un irr ill ! descent drugon Ily , " "u fragment of a ratnb'JW stolen uotwenn sun and bhowor , lie "a bonp bubble , " "u hnmniliit' bird , " " tin ciiriibcation , " "u glittering gem of man ioy facets , " "a will o' the wlspj" then h refuge In dashes. iir- The EnglUh women liavo sent C ( llht books to bo a part of their exhibit u ics Chicago. They uro ull by women writoi ro- and por'naps the most interesting ai im- the old and rare volumes. One of the * trt written by Mary Abtoll , 200 yeurn ug yu is u somewhat bellicose "Dofon-sO ol tli rig Female Sox. " The earliest of all tl , volumes is DHIIIO .Juliana Bernut IBO treittibo on "Hawking , Hunting in ud- Cote Armour , " entitled "The Boko mil St. Albaiis. " She ulso wrote "TreutybO of Fysbhyngo wyth an Angli of ( HBO. ) The manuscripts in the cojlu ore tion are interesting. Every one notlc lUSt tlio great rebcmblanco between the bun rk , writing of Georj'O Eliot , Chariot ) ilrt Bronte nnd Funny Burnoy. the A bright woinuii at Stamford , Com realizes a goodly income from the produce - duce of tier violet farm. At first thought violets may not appear to lw plants of such permanent profit ns cu cumber. * ; asparagus , melons nml other substnntlals , but experience proves that this proverbially moilcst flower has no dllllculty in finding nn excellent nnd stead v market. The enterprising owner of this farm soils her violets only upon n limited subscription , and although the blossoms are of n peculiarly fine and fragrant variety , yet the price paid Is considerably lower than that for which n poorer grade of llowor Is obtained at the New York city florists' . A Philadelphia woman advocates the establishment of an institution whore temporary servants may bo obtained. "Thanks' to the training schools and nurses' directory , " she says , "tho sick can now bo attended tj , but whore can n temporary domestic njslstant worth her j salt bo found ? Nowhere. If you go ( to an 'Intelligent' olllco you find only j pornmnont ( ? ) help. If your child's nurse i or your chambermaid goes olT sud denly , who can como for an hour or two while you hunt up another ? Nobody but 1 the charwoman. Why can wo not have ] household aid bureaus where re spectable American women would not feel lowered by registering for service by the hour , diiy or week , to replace the Hying cook or housemaid ? " Tim SllCK tHn. T. S. Keep , cashier of the bank of For est Grove , Ore. , Is visiting friends in the citv , Bays the Spokane Reviow. Mr. Keep Is constantly obliged to run a gauntlet of commentary on the appro priateness of his name to his calling. "While in Portland " wild Keep was , u friend of his yesterday , "ho met Presi dent Steele of the Merchants National bank. Mr. Rteolo suggested a partner ship in n now banking house , with a sign that should read like this : STEELE & KEEP , HANKCHS. "The partnership was never formed , although the men are still good friends. The firm name wns too suggestive. " HOTELS. The Mercer. Omaha's NewostHot ! . Cur. 12th nml UotvarJ Streets. 40 rooms * i.V ) per diiy. 40 rooms il 00 per day ! ! 0 rooms with Imth nttl noriliV. HO rooms with tmth : il } ! . , > ) pordiiy. Aluilurn In IMTJItcspicl , Aowly rimiUhpcl Throughout C.S. ERB , Proa. I WAS BIG. I WAS PAT. I PELT MEAN. I TOOK PILLS. I TOOK SALTS. I GOT LEAN. Handsome Women Can Lese Wolqh [ Fast. Homely Mon Look Boitor Thin. Try Or. Edlson'a System. No Dlotlns. Bnnd worth Twlos the BOfllconf II. M. lUirton , Hardware. U.iry St % . tlon.111. . Jan. 1 . 18JL Dr. Killson Duarslr : I mil wollploasod with your treatment of obosltv. riio Imtiel U wortli twice the inonoy It cost , for comfort. I h ivo reduced my woiubt tun pounds. 1 welsh 2J uow. una 1 did weigh 21 % Your * truly They Are Doing Wlo Good. Knrlvillc. Ill , Mnr21 193 ! . I.or I us A. Co : Inclojol llmIi.5J for whloi plain Bend mu the other two liattloiof lr KillOi' Objj- It j I'llln. 1 have u eil onj nn Uhlnfc haarj tlotn ; tlieworlc. S. Jl. UAI.EV , I' . O. llox 73. Talk So Much About Your Pills. I'eorln , III , Juno 13.1831. Dear SIM : After hoarlnu mia of my frl"ml tulle 10 Quell nbout your Olotlty I'llli nml Un O3ijit : lull dorlvliiK from thorn I tlilnk I will try thorn myuU 1'lente aontl mo JUOtlloi C. O. I ) . , iiml oblUu , J. Mounts. I'll 1'erry Strajt. Fool Better and Weigh 13 Pounds Loss Ooshen , Inil .Sept. 13. 1W3. Gentlemen ! Inoloieil 1 nynil you l , for whlo'i you - wllpli'ftioi ! niliiiutliroejottlo | ofllioob3iltr pills , tlio foilrtu liottlo ami foal Tory much better niirt welKh 13 imitnili lii > thnn when I taking tbem. 1 will continue your truat'uuut. illtd. J. 0. MuJiiNX. boutli&UtUStroiU An Individual whoso lick-litli B feet I lucli ulioulUweUii 1J5 paunili 5 feet Rlnclios " 110 " 6 loot lUliiclim " \ 170 " Pr. Ellison ay : ' "It nay bo well to point out that In my orpurlonco , which Is jiocoss rlljr Tory coniliturable , nmiiy troublciomo skin illiuaiui auc'i , eci'mumn , iizonu. | iiorlu > ln , utlcarla. olo. , nru prim * iirlly ciUHOit by olionlty. und in the fut aiut llJ.ih It . , reducuil by the pllli unit Obcilty Fruit Halt unfl llu Bctlonnf the linncl tliaio nlloutloiii liaro iilniuU - mauicnlly ilUnpiiearivl " ; Hi" Obesity Krultb.iItU mud In connoctlon wltn tliu 1'IIUor llanils , or both , Onu to iipooiifiit In % tuinliiur of wnlor iiukoi u ilullclout ouJ.v Tujtoi . Ilkn clminixU'no , - The bnnicort lib' ) nto'i forniiylendh up to 31 Inchoj , biifnr "no IIITKLT thnti 41 luoUdi mU ID d ccnln extra for uicli inMltloiiul Inc'i. rrlceofKrultbilt.il/JJ. rillnil.M I'or llottlo. or. ) lloltloi lor JI.01 O bent liy.Mallor Kxproos - Cuttbli out and kaap It , niiilnoud far our fullf ) H coluiniuiirltclo on ubotltr. MENTION AUUltKSS nXAOXLV ASGIVIJN 10 ! toml Loring & Company 10- .i Dopt. ill , Ilo ton. Ma , II Bt. , Wept 21 , Chicago , 111. , ij W. na Ht , Dupl li. New Vork City. tvo , For sale in Omaha by Snow Lund & Co. ! , .1)0 ) the U-'H mil SURELY CURED. of ofu To TUB KniTon 1'lenso itifonn your rcml u le" era that I Imvo u [ louitivo ruinedy for tin aboro ii.imod ilihcaio. ly ) itu timely UB < loo- C03 tkuuRiiuda of liopelcsp cased Imvn IJGCII jxir nmiicntly cured. I Mmll bolad ( to Bern nd- tto two Lottlon of my remedy free to nny of you reader" who Imvo conKiiiiipHon if they wil Bend mo their express and iiost olllco nddrena in. , T. A. Blocuiu , M.O. , 18U i'curlSt. , KowYork The 3-Day Freckle Cure ATTENTION , Physicians and Chcmistt Iadtc.i nnd Cioiitlumon : Mmct. M. Yule , that , most wontlcrful woman chemist , hna discovered n n.cdlumo tlwt will roinovo Freckles fro 11 any fnco In three days. Hnrle yo , doubling Thomnnus , cvory bottle Ii Ktmr.uitucd anil money wilt bo promptly re funded Is onto of failure. It removes tan and sunburn In ono. application. It m\ttora : not if the Freckles luivo been from chllit hood to old IIKO , Liii Frockla will clear them in cvory case. Price $1.00. Sent to any part of tbo world. Address nil orders to MME. M. YALE , lloauty nml Camiiloxlon Spoatnltst , KOOINS 501-2 Karb.ich Illoaic , 'Cor.lSth and Douglas Sts , , Omaba , , Hsb. Toadies llvlup In the city pleads call at Temple of Be.iuty. INFANTA. . , The latest out. Pretty , styl , sli , nobby traveling hat in , white and colors. | Selling all summer millinery at cost and less. t ' BLISS , 1514 Douglas SI , DA De O L1 D A L L1k' k'S R R S S < J _ r will cover the expense of n trip from St. I'uul to the YELLOW NORTHERN STONE VIA THE PACIFIC This includes ALL necessary traveling expenses , railroad , stiigo and sleeping carfares faros , meals and hotels for the complete TOUR OF THE PARK. Your trip to the World's Fair will not bo complete unless you also go from there to the Yellowstone Park ( total expense about $150) ) and view the wonderful things the Almighty has placed therefor mankind to sco. No such spot is found elsewhere on earth. The Northern Pa cific is the direct line there. Send for " 0,000 Miles Through Won derland , " and our now map of the Park. CHAS. S. FEE , I General I'ussoiiKor Aecnt , ' ST. PAUL , MINN. HABIT IN ALL ITS FORMS' O VIR .ft O f OH PM INC. COCA INC. LAUDANUM AND KINftED HABIT S ! I ' COIinCSPOMDCNCC OONCIOCNTIAU PAMPHLETOP PARTICULAR : SCNT rncc ADOncSCi NATIONAL HEALTH CO PAXTON BLOCK. OMAHA. NCQ , SOMETHING NEW1 Wn liavo JiiHt rcoclvixl lot of OUNUINK I'AKUOTS from ISLM OK I'INKH , wlilcli urn tlm bcut uf nil ( 'iilj.iu iMrrolH , bului ; much , l.irircr , tln-rufuro Hlront'iT unit liiMltlilor. alHo llnnr In iiliiniiiKO iiiiul liuttiT t ilkcrrt , HlH'i'lnl nrlcii for the iinxl 0 d.'iyn. ONIV M.UO KMlll lO.ioli iiarrot Holil with : i rlltcii KU.irjiiti-u lo talk. Holkt li.inol c.u.1'H Cl.oo , OnliTH for n.irrotH without cani'M rciiulru Ma uxtr.i for Hhlpplni ; l > oxuu. GEISLER'S ' BIRD STORE , Omaha , Nob. Dr. C. Oeo Wo , thn kliuf Of ClllllUKO mUtldllUH , Cilll truly Iw 1'iillwl the kliifof inixlleliiu Ix-railHi ] of lilu WDiiilcrfnl Hklll and curcH uf all kliHl UlHUiiHc-M. Ho HIM'llt } fniHlll tllU lllllli'll : c'olli'Ro of Uhlut : iiml ha liurmil thiiuctloiiu of ovur fi.UOU illircriMit ( 'lilncaij" rcimilluH , lit ; hatt ( wxjuln.il niiiuli linowliilyu nut tooUV junru uf liuiil unit canii'Hl htuily to ucruuipllHli , C'lil- I'L-HII llllHllvllll U 11 TO bllpU- rior bccaiitto of thulr purity A BtrciiKlli. They urn . . . fvf'/-lj > 1 At tiff ( M ? f f * * UM * U | u * ( * * M | u * M ( [ Mlallly of meii'H iirlv.ilo rtlHi.i ; 8 , lost niau- liuoU.fit.irrh , IIITVUUBIIUMH , clironlu illw-aw-H itnu nil luiiLilti wi-akni'HKCH. IMtleiitH t u ill8t.inc < ie.m - bo trr-iUtl liy forn-apoiiUi'iiw. Tlm doctor liuij liuiiilrtxlH iT luHtliiionl.ilH. Senil 4 w-ulHBtampa tat tn-u Iwolc of tc-HllmonlalM nml iUi-Btlon | bUnU . llr. r O. ( Jc-o Wo , llllli ttml California BlrwU , Omaha , Nt-li. _ > , T if V'C < Catarrh J'owdorcureacatarrh. J-5 AllUrUBelat" . COtcuU.
