TOE OMATIA DAILY BRBt SUNPAjft APRIL 0. 180a WENTY PAGES.
THE FASHIONABLE EQUINOX
Transition from Somber Lent to the Kalnbow
Tinta of Epriug.
THE EASTER PARADISE IN NEW YORK
An rnclmiitlnpr ruimnima of l > nilnlne
iitiHi riltll Avflillc-Tlm Illlll-
Womnii U lint It Co H
to Ha III "tlifihwlni. "
The Master parade of fashionables In
Uow York WUH n moving panorama of
loveliness and color. A clear sky , a
radiant sun and u bracing breeze com
bined to emphasize the transition from
winter to Hpring. The somber colors of
the penitential period wore replaced
with bright colors and combination * ,
the whole forming a poem of animated
rainbow tints suggestive of the season.
It was about noon when the parade
began. During the morning the girls
jf the east aide , with their escorts.
walked up and down Fifth avenue in
their Kastor raiment waiting for the
people to I'umo out of the churches and
Miow ttu'iiiht'lvos. Those girls had
striven to produce with colors the effects
which their more fortunate sisters ob
tain with material qntl makeup , anil
most of them were those Chinese pagoda
rapes that look so pretty , whether they
uro made of oil-cent or S10 cloth. They
nil wore light straw hats with big flowing -
ing brims and curling feathers and gay
ribbons , and looked bewitching. A
woman might have found fault , but
bright i\u's and red checks go far to
maki > a man accept any dress and any
combination of colors.
Toward noon the services in some of
the churches came to an end and the
congregations poured out. From then
until 1 o'clock Fifth avenue presented a
rcmarkablo becno. From an upper window -
dow of a hotel it looked like this : A
Blender procession was moving on both
aides of the street. The doors of a
church opened and a mass of variegated
colors seemed to be pushed out and
quickly hpread itself up and down and
outward to the middle of the street.
From another church and another and
another similar masses of color emerged
until the street resembled parallel lines
of color with big blots at irregular in
tervals. Gradually these blots nar
rowed and lengthened , and the lines
grow thicker until on each side of the
Htrcot up and down as far as the eye
could reach there stretched a long ,
moving , crowded line of many colors.
Those lines kept swelling and swelling
until 1 o'clock , when all the churches
had throun open their doors and the
sidewalks were full to overflowing , ami
then the parade was in its fullest glory.
To one w ho mingled in it it was a be
wildering conglomeration of beauty and
colors. The close fitting skirt of last
Easter had disappeared. In its place
was a wide , stiff skirt , that stood out so
"boldly as to create a strong suspicion of
crinoline. Of course , these things are
beyond men , but it really looked us if
every fashionably dressed woman on the
avenue were small hoops , just wide
enough to prevent the skirt from cling
ing to the llguro. Most of these drones
had a short train. Thp.so trains swept
the dust just as the trains of ' 02 did , and
scorned to promise that no matter what
happened the old crinoline would never
return. But still it was suspicious.
Thcro was one woman , however , who
were crinoline of generous width there
could bo no mistake in her case. She
was a rather good looking woman , .of
medium height , with light blue eyes ,
and such red checks as might suggest
that she had only recently come from
Europe. Of her nationality her face
gave no indication. The hkirt of her
dross stood out fattlllv , suggesting hoop
skirts more strongly than any other
dross on the avenue For several 'min
utes alter slio was first observed there
was jubt room for the shadow of a doubt ,
tout when in crossing the street and
stopping close to the curb the front of
her dress was pressed ag&inst the curb
stone the back of it stuck out still as
iron , and when in the crush of the crowd
u man was pushed against this skirt ho
found that it yielded like a spring.
It would bo dilllcult to toll what the
prevailing color was. There were very
few dresses of one color , the style ap
parently demanding a combination of
three or more suitable colors. There
were many novel shades of green and
blue , most of them very bright. A num
ber of women were bright green velvet
capes that oauld bo distinguished in all
that mass of color at a distance of bov-
tiral blocks. As a result of all this dis
play there may bo many cases of cold ,
Tor all those dresses were of very light
material and not made to protect the
wearer against a spring breeze. Many
of the women who had left their wraps
at home felt the chill edge of the breoxo.
The capes and the sleeves of the
dresses , however , were the chief attrac
tions. There were more capes made of
velvet than of any other material , with
tan cloth next in popularity , and satin a
lese third. The velvet capes , lined as
they were \ \ itli bright colored gleaming
nilks , were worn over dresses of varied
hues and looked simply da//Hng , when ,
as often happened , the wearer , by a deft
lllrt of her hand , accidentally Hipped a
corner of the garment over her shoulder ,
disclosing tho'ohanging colors of the in-
bide silk.
A t } po of the rainbow costumes was
that of \oung girl who were a dress of
changeable shot talTota silk which
blended from dark purple to blut.h rose.
It revealed tints of pale blue and glis
tened with gold in the sunlight. The
Hkirt hung straight and full and was
trimmed with hands of mirror velvet.
There was. an Eton jacket of this same
velvet \ \ itli w ide Diroctoiro rovers cut to
show conspicuously the vest beneath.
This was of white broadcloth , which
clung with tender i > orsU.tcney to her
well-rounded form. The broadcloth was
exquisitely embroidered in gold thread
and pink pearls. Tucked in at the side
of her b 'dice was u , largo bunch of vie
lets tied with violet ribbon. Her bonnet
was a genuine "IS.'IO" pc.ko of creamy
btraw , with shaded ostricli tips in violo't
and pink nodding over the flaring brim.
Another belle appeared to bo hidiii"
her bounty behind a bed of roses the
hkirt of her gown was made of pale rose
broadcloth and trimmed with folds of
black sat in. Just what her bodice was
made of will forever remain a mvbtery
to tho.se who saw her Easter day. It was
literally banked and framed in huge
American Beauty roses. Her sleeves
resembled a good-sized balloon , anil
were made of black satin with a deep
cull of the pink broadcloth. Her hat
was another flower garden growing out
of a billowy arrangement of black lace.
ihitb variously arrayed , and each ac
cording to her taste as defined by her
purse , the women proudly floated along ,
attended by their husbands or hopeful
HWains. The men , as usual , made a
background of solemn and sometimes
ill-luting black , serving to bring into
moro prominence the bewildering fern-
inino finery.
*
Did it over occurto you that the girl
of today U a very different creature from
the one who were crinoline dnrin" its
former rage ? asks the Philadorphla
Times. Tliu belle of 1KJO would IHIYO re
garded it the height of Impropriety to
have ridden aatrldo oven n nobnyhorno ,
but these beautiful sunny mornings xco
many of our girl * out for a nplii on their
bicycles , and the tlmo Is not so verfat1
off when to rldo astrldo a horwj will bo
( | tilto a * good form as the manner In such
general IIBO by equestriennes at jitrsont.
In fact , In EnglandGermany ami lluxsla
there are now very many ladies who
have adopted the now method and are
not looked upon as even a bit peculiar
in so doing.
Hysteria and frequent swoons have
quite gone out of date ; strong nerves
have taken the place of lackadaisical
manners , and as for amucomentstho tryIng -
Ing but ladylike bit of needlework has
been displaced by the banjo in our drawIng -
Ing rooms. Imagine how shocked our an
cestors would bo totco one of their own
blood twanging away on an instrument
that they in their tlmo regarded as only
for use by negro minstrels , "mats nous
avons change tout cela.1 With the
passing of the strip of needlework the
cheeks have gained morn cDlor. outdoor
exorcise has forever banished the lachrymose
rymose- heroines from the pages of the
up-to-date novel , and In every profession
and every Hold woman has shown by her
proficiency that who ranks side by side
with her brothers , though she need not
lose one whit of her femininity by in
dulging in other things than those that
were in the other days regarded as the
only refined amusements for a lady to
take part in.
* *
A race of women brought up to read ,
write and cipher , to keep books and send
business letters , to study constitutional
law and political economy , to sit on
school committees and charity boards ,
to manage tenement houses and prisons ,
to practice law and medicine , and make
their own wills , cannot possibly remain
in that state of pupilage which was once
the only natural condition of their sex.
Whether it is pretty or otherwise , grace
ful or otherwise , a race of business
women is upon us , writes T. W. Iliggin-
son in Harper's. For observe that it Is
not needful that each individual woman
should do all these things in person , or ,
indeed , any of them ; the most secluded
woman still feels the effects of the gen
eral change , just as the disturbance of
tlio central waters of a lake finds its way
at last , through inliniteslmally , into the
remotest .nook. The social alteration is
in the air , in the newspapers , in the
whole habit of life. A prominent philan
thropist in a city of 100,000 inhabitants
once called my attention to the fact , and
proved it by comparison of documents ,
that whereas , forty years before , all the
leading charitable associations of that
city had men alone for their oilicors ,
they were now chiefly carried on by
women , oven the olllceof treasurer being
now in feminine hands.
* *
Ono of Now York's smart social set
remarked to an Illustrated American
writer the other day that no woman
who ptotonded to keep in the swim
could dress her part on less than $500 a
month. No less will bitlllce to keep her
supplied with clean slippers and gloves ,
glossy boots , crisp , chic hats and novel
ties in the way of frocks and wraps.
Even though she ride in a carriage and
employ a maid to care for her things ,
they get rumpled and worn by merely
putting them otT and on , and , unles's
the supply is constantly replenished ,
she will soon fall into shabbiness , ac
cording to the standard she follows. A
thoroughgoing society light will make
not less than four and frequently live
toilets every day. Each one must lie
perfect in its way and many of her gar-
month are ijri/.ed for their fragile , tran
sient qualities. Being quite as fastidious
concerning her lingerie as her ball
gowns , she pays heavily to wear gar
ments of silk , batiste and lace that
perish after a do/en contacts with the
laundry tubs. Her gloves alone are an
important itcmcosting .several hundreds
every year , and as ( lowers for personal
adornment are included in the expenses
they frequently demand $8 and $10 a
week for violets alone. Another inroad
into her allowance is made by the neces
sities of her jewel cn-o.
* #
The daughter of a retired millionaire ,
in Minneapolis has an allowance of
$ U,000 a year for pin money. Out of it
she is expected to pay for her clothes
and other personal expense- ) , such as
gloves , candy , books and matinee tickets.
Ono would imagine that she could man
age to squeeze along on her income , par
ticularly as she hud no board to pay.
But she didn't. In fact , she found her
self very heavily in debt to her dress
maker one line morning. She went to
her father. Ho refused to help her. She
appealed to her brother. Ho sympa
thized , but ho could do nothing , as he
was- deeper in debt than his sister.
When she found that tears and en
treaties would not move the governor ,
she took counsel with some of her rela
tives and friends. The result is that a
private entertainment has been arranged
for the benefit of the poor unfortunate
millionaire's daughter. All her friends
are expected to buy tickets , and the
proceeds will go toward liquidating the
hated milliner's bill. Perhaps if the
father should hear about it ho would
veto the proceedings.
* #
The Countess Tolstoi is an extremely
clever woman intellectually , and one
who Is more than a match for her hus
band in his argument , writes Marya
MenchikofT in the Ladies' Homo Journal ,
Slip transcribes ins books as they are
written , as frequently as they are al
tered and revised , and in the case of the
"Kroutzor Sonata" copied it four times
before the book was finally completed.
The countess , who is of necessity the
linancial manager of the family , lias
taken possession of the estate , which
she administers for the good of her bus-
I band and children. She it was who Is
sued , a few years ago , the cheap edition
of Count Tolstoi's novels , on the royal
ties of which tlm household has lieen
supported. To her firmness and de
termination the credit of the homo in
which the family reside , as well as the
blame-if such it be called for her hus
band'b failure to practice the doctrine of
a community of goods , which lie so earn
estly advccatos. must be given ; and her
realization that a home must bo prinided
for the nine children who have lived of
the sixteen barn to them must bo her
excuse.
*
The lovely young women of Europe
will undoubtedly be an Interesting spec
tacle as they sit lace making , painting ,
wood carving and embroidering before
the crowds of Chicago. But in the
mere matter of physical comeliness the
lineht girls at the oxpoaition will bo
those who go to compare charms with
their foreign rivals. Apart from the
graces of their character our women are
the most beautiful of all nations. This
Chicago festivity is called the World's
fair. But wo shall see such an entranc
ing array of feminine graces there that
it might , with moro appropriateness , be
termed the American fair.
*
Women are decidedly coming to the
fore in the old world. The London
Times lias within the last few months
enlisted the services of cetera ! lady con
tributors , and one of them , a Mis , * Shaw ,
is now touring in the various Australian
colonies us a special correspondent of
the leading English press. At Antwerp
two ladies have just been appointed as
assistant clerks of the court for civil
cases , while in Sweden and in Denmark
the masouliuo reporters in the press
gallery of the national InglRlnturq * have
boon replaced by women. Moreover ,
the olllcliil stenographer of the lower
house of the Danish Parliament Is a
Mies Orundtvlg.
Ono phase of the eternal marriage
question which occupies so munh spaca
In the discussion of the dny 1ms been
clearly brought out by Miss Wlllurd ,
who prophecies that the independence of
women will raise the standard of man
hood and elevate the estate of matri
mony. "The elevation of thole sisters , "
says Miss Wlllard , "to the plane of per
fect financial independence , from which
they can dictate the equable terms 'You
must bo as pure and true as yon require
mo to bo ore I give you my hand' is the
brightest hope that gleams In the sky of
modern civilization for our brothers. '
A curious state of affairs prevails in
France in relation to women. A French
woman may become a doctor , a lawyer ,
a member of the board of education , and
may oven be decorated with the cross of
the Legion of Honor ; but she may not
witness a legal document. She occupies
an important place in art , business , and
commerce ; but she cannot possess her
own earnings If she is married , and she
can neither buy nor sell property with
out her husband's consent.
*
4f *
A young woman attached to the stall
of a London newspaper were a crinoline
of the vintage of 1857 on the streets of
that village the other day and almost
caused a riot before she had progressed
very far. She was obliged to seek
refuge in an omnibus and was charged
double faro because of her rigging.
AV.ir A/'I / , / : > /.V V.ll'KH.
A capo designed for a young girl is of line
broadcloth , in a light biscuit shade , gathered
very full nlxnit the neck , and falling in soft ,
graceful folds to the waist. It is lined
FOIl TUB STREET.
throughout with bright plaid silk , in which
scarlut and whlto predominate , and it lias
a shirred high collar and falling rulllo of the
same silk.
Still another is in black not over shaded
brown silk. ThoclTcotof this Is round , with
u full double plait at the back , which hangs
outward gracefully. The not is covered with
silk galleon sut on in plain rows , except at
the edge , where it Is arranged In a series of
whorls. The flaring collar , n suggestion
merely of the Medici , is of velvet , like the
silk , doubled , and put on quite full. Largo
bows of the velvet are on the shoulders and
at both back and front.
A capo that is characterized by every woman
that it " " is in
man sees as a "perfect beauty"
green velvet , which shades just a bit , and
almost imperceptibly , toward red. The back
is in two plaits , cut in a deep point , the ex
treme length being Just short of Iho waist
line. The fronts are cut like n stole , and
an brought around to the b.ick , fastening
under a velvet bow with a handsome Jut
buckle. The fronts arc edged with a superb
silk guipure l.icc , and the full standing rulllo
at , the throat is of the same. Ueautlfnl jot
ornaments are at the neck , ono on each
shoulder , ono in front and one at the back.
The lining of this exquisite garment is of
p.ilo Nile green silk.
Thcro arc simpler forms of the capo for
cotnmnn wear. Many are made in single ,
% - Jl
> - . . .sgr ? : ! rir
rOH AFTnil.NOOX WEAK.
double , or triple ruffles , very full , indeed ,
reaching Just over the shoulders , or. moro
often , to the waistline , and sometimes
touching the hips. They are made of the
dress material , \\ith edges simply stitched
or banded with black satin riobou , nnd have
a turned-over collar , buttoned at the throat.
It may ho Just as well for women who are
about to buy spring garments to remember
that Jackets are to bo shorter than they
wore last i car , at least ten inches and in
some cases llftecn lioing deducted from the
sklrta of those made last year. The modish
Jacket will have largo sleeves and unusually
broad shoulders.
reiiiliilno rrrH
Mrs. Julia Ward Howe lectured in
Hostou the ether afternoon on "Is Polite
Society Poll to ? " Mrs. Howe U in just
the right plaeo to prosecute her inqui
ries.
ries.Kthol
Kthol Stout , : i od 11 , runs a quarto
temperance paper , culled the Mldtfot , in
Ohio , hots a in-cut deal of the miittor
and uilitb it all. Ilor father is a news-
pnpcr man.
Mru. Hurirc > x. wife of a member of the
Newfoundland assembly , accompanied
her hu&bund to the bossibn at St. .Inhn'tt ,
walking -10 miles over k-o and snow on
snow shoos.
DUMJ , the actress , is extremely super-
fititious , ono of her pot notions being that
ill luck is biire to follow if any other per
son sits upon a seat intended for her uo
on the stngo.
Probably the only woman customs
broker in this or any other country is
Hulda Grasor of Cincinnati. She is only
til yours old. but already she controls u
largo and profitable business.
When Mrs. 1'aran Stevens opened her
now house on Fifth avenue , Now York ,
the ether evening , she had a band of
fifty-seven pieces from the lioaton Sym
phony orchestra to furnish miibio.
Miss Mary Graham , a graduate of
Wcsloyan university , and Miss Mary A.
Seott , a Vassiir M. A. , are the llrst
women to receive fellowships at Yalo.
Miss Graham has boon teaching at
Mount llolyoko.
Mrs. Frank Class of Morristown
( known bettor as Miss Jennie Smith ) is
the champion wlngbhot of Now Jorxoy.
She is 1 years old , f > feet 2 Inches high
and weighs iir ; pounds. She handles a
gun gracefully as well as skillfully.
In all probability the llrst tenant of
the gorgeous biilto of apartments at the
now Waldorf hotel In Now York de
signed for the entertainment of royalty
will bo the Spanish Princess Kululle ,
who will dwell there when she reaches
No * York on her wn ( o the World's
Xalr I i /
In Knglnnd they htivo an Institution
known an the Ititritl District Nurfllni { as
sociation. The niirpcaru In training
two years at u cost of WT)0. ) Knch nuwo
has aalary ( of $12. " ) to31(50 ( , with board
and lodging and a donkey cart In which
to go the rounds of a district of 2,000 to
: i,000 Inhabitants.i | < f
The admirers of "Tho Silence of Dean
Muitlnnd" can searcoly fancy the writer
of that strong , earn l story to bo n
woman rather than n'man ' , and a sick
woman besides. Tho4ttory wan written
by MI s Tnttrcll , iv delicate girl , who
was obliged to do most of the work upon
her couch , distressed" by most Intense
sulToring.
Mine. Oottu , who Is distinctively the
"woman In the case" In the French Pan
ama scandal , has singularly few of the
attributes of Venus. She is described
as "like Mother Hubbnrd at the ago of
10 , ' ' and she dresses very plainly , though
in clothes that show her dressmaker's
artistic touch. She Is small , with a little -
tlo angular figure , piercing eyes and a
cold clear voice.
Miss Clara Abbott Poor of Lawrence ,
now In her ! Kth ) year , is the daughter of
Caleb Abbott of Andover , Mass. , who
was u soldier from Andover. Mass. , in
the revolutionary war. Ho served
throughout the entire war , was at
Bunker Hill , where ho had a brother
killed , at Saratoga , and at the terrible
winter camp of Valley Forge. Fifty
years after the battle Mr. Abbott , with
some 00 of his surviving comrades , at
tended and took part in the ceremonies
of laying the corner stone of Hunker
Hill monument.
Mrs. Nellie Grant Sartoris , who is now
living in London , Is a great social favor
ite. She is described as more attractive
than when , eighteen years ago , she
went to Kngland a hopeful bride. She
was only 1 ! ) years old then. She doesn't
look over ! tO now. When she goes out in
the evening she usually wears white ,
with graceful draperies. Her face is of
girlish fullness and smoothness : hoi-
eyes are very dark and shaded by heavy
black lashes. She has the appearance
of n lady of Indolent repose. She is devoted -
voted to her children.
runhlun NnU'rt.
Among the novelties is a card case pro
vided with an especial pocket for bon
bons.
The sailor hat again presents itself
for favor among the many popular spring
shapes.
If the cash girl wears crinoline , will
it be .safe for the floor walker to blow
her up ?
Bands of narrow velvet , with rosette
bows , trim the skirts of f-eml-dross and
evening costumes.
It is a sad thought that even the pret
tiest of all the pretty girls a young man
knows may snore. ' '
Black bengaliue , 'Ottoman faille , and
ether shining historians corded silks are
greatly used for church , reception and
visiting dresses. i
The trimming of . skirts grows dally.
You can watch It cl'poplng ' farther and
farther up. Just at present it reaches
the knees , and should j > top there.
Figured , shot and striped effects are
added to the plain ribbed textiles of a
year ago. Some hh o satin stripes in
rich colorings about jUyo inches apart.
With puffed sleeves , crinoline , chig
non and high hat , lovely woman is evi
dently going to bo dvelipr than over
this season , orb.irst d stocking supporter
' '
trying.
Gold hairpins and combs are in fashion
again , and by that is meant those made
of solid gold , as well as countless varie
ties in umber and tortoise-shell mounted
in gold.
All the nine-gored skirts are lined to
thok nee with crinoline , and as a rule
the seams are either covered with nar
row gimps or jet bauds , or piped with
bilk or satin.
"Why , Mrs. Rutland , how do you do ? "
' 'Quite well. How are you , Mrs. .Tones ?
How did you find mo In all this crowd ? "
"By your bonnet. It's the third winter
for'it , isn't it ? " ,
Handsome Persian patterned silks and
satins , used for vests and facings , give a
rich and rechorcho effect to some of the
now tailor jackets of Venetian cloth and
three-quarter coats of Knglish korsoy.
Hop sacking , tweeds of every descrip
tion , checked , shot , plain , and plaited
woolen fabrics are exhibited in all the
leading dry goods houses in color-blond-
ings and combinations heretofore un
known.
In making the now dress skirts tailors
and dressmakers appear to perform n bit
of magic , for while fitting the hips with
out gore or plait they buddenly expand
and flare outward at the feet , where
they measure- many yards in circumfer
ence.
"Tho ways of them city women beats
ino , " bald Mrs. Jason to her spouso.
"Hero's homo of 'em that gadb about so
much that they have to put it in the
paper that they are 'at' homo' on'sich
and bieh a day. I don't see how they
ever git any mondin' done , or take any
care of the children. "
It is believed by many loaders of
fashion that the present outro modes
cannot hold , they oelng too hideous to
last oven for ono season. English designers - (
signers are talking of the coming in of
fashions set by Anne of Austria ; others
believe that 'Elizabethan rullles and
btonuiehoi'b will bo worn.
A London journal is carrying on a crusade -
sade against tight lacing. The articles
appear in the front pages of the weekly ,
and following thorn nro pictures of
dozen- fashion plate women who look
as if they could bo snapped off at the
waist line , leaving smooth edges , so remarkable -
markablo is the taper of their bud ices.
Spring theater capos are made of very
fine clnth in light colors , as well as of
velvet and brocado. 'Fawn-colored cloth
models are lined witlj pale green shot
with apricot. Pretty velvet capos in
Breton shape are lined with red , yellow
or mauve moire or brocade and finished
with a di-op jotted yoke and flaring
Medici collar.
Lace capes , fashioned much like the
winter models , with velvet or jotted
yokes and collars , have made their ap
pearance , like many kothor of the sea
son's fashions , long before they are re
quired. These capo- , are very hand-
bomo , indeed , especially tho-o which are
only garnitured with expensive cut jet
ornaments and fringes.
A now kind of fichu Is composed of
wide bands andre ett s of iialo turquoise
blue satin ribbon , from which there falls
u deep frill of { ho now serpentine crepe
a lovely French material , which has
all the appearance of accordion plaited
crepe do Chine. The t-ntin ribbons pass
over the shoulders and are fastened with
a largo rosette at the back.
The pretty fashion for wearing dainty
bodices of colored silk both in the day
time and the evening scorns likely to bo
in vogue this season. Some of the pret
tiest now bodices possible to imagine or
describe are bolng shown. They are de
lightful in color and arrangement and
novel in blmpo and stylo. They are par
ticularly appropriate for theater wear.
The lovely rose tints to bo used in
evening dress this season grow mpro
and more beautiful as they are gradually
brought out in fabrics of silk , cropallno ,
brocade , veiling , shot satin and all the
host of exquisite diaphanous textiles
ttt dancing o toilets of oropo dn olilnn
vollwl with 1 tended or Bpanglod ttillo
they Impart a charming glow to the
complexion.
Violet In all its varied nnd beautiful
tones and Homl-lonos | a very oomplou-
ms color both in dross and millinery.
Green Is Its close rival , nnd pretty straw
huts In palo violet are trlmme'd with
gold luce , green velvet , and a slnglo
imlo l Ink rose , while soft green straw
hnst are decorated with luce , violets ,
orchids , lilacs , pansles , Irises , or mauve
hyacinths.
Cream and ecru guipure lueoa and
Irish linen and silk crochet edgings. In
sertions , bordi-rlngs , neck and sloi > vo
pieces , etc. , will bo most olU-cthely used
to trim every sort of summer gown ex
cepting those which emanate from the
tailor. Linen tatting , in ttio new in
tricate and really beautiful patterns ,
makes an exceedingly pretty trimming
for morning dresses for both women and
children.
HOW TO KJEEP ROSES.
Nnt Tliotn on tlio t'lii'vk * , lint Thnxn Out
from MOIIIH ,
"Would you tell mo how tomakorosoa
fade1 a Boston Glebe reporter asked of
the head of the biggest rose-growing es
tablishment in the world.
"No , I would rather toll you how to
keep them , " he answered. "Mo t people
have an idea that roses are b'rn ) to
bloom for a day or two. and that carna
tions and other hardier flowers will per
haps live a little longer. If they only
knew it , it rests with thorn whether they
keep their roses for a day or for a week ,
provided the [ lowers are in healthy ,
fresh condition when bought. And the
directions for their care are very simple.
"Ko-.cs need a cool , moist atmosphere.
They droop and fade in the dry boat of
the modern drawing room. It Is not
possible perhaps to adapt the air of your
draw Ing room to the needs of your roses ;
but you can observe certain precautions
in regard to them which will make the
room moro endurable.
"In the first place there are certain
roses whose color is enhanced in beauty
by light not direct sunbeams , but the
warm , rich light which comes through
an unshaded window. Other roses fade
and droop if exposed to the light.
"Exposure to light deepens the color
of yellow roses , but it bleaches the red
rose or the pink one. The white roses
are butter for a good supply of light.
Therefore , keep your red and pink roses
in a shaded place : put tlio white and
yellow ones near the window.
"Chun i' the water on your ro-.os twice
a day , and spray them at intervals. The
iftener it could bo changed would bo the
bettor for them , wore it not for the fact
that constant handling might bruise
thorn.
"Have a good pair of strong shears
and when you lift the roses from their
vases trim the ends of the stems a little.
They will draw in the refreshing water
all the easier. Let the water bo cool.
"There are several ways of preserving
the colors of roses. Adding a little salt
to the water is ono way. Wrapping the
stems in blotting paper saturated with
salicylic acid is another. You can
got the proper solution of the acid from
a florist.
"If you dip ordinary blotting paper in
this solution , wrap it around the stems
and then put waxed paper around. The
flower will bhow very ill-effect from
exposure to the light and to other
bleaching influences. Salicylic acid re
tards fermentation , which , next to sun
light , is the most active agent in robbing
llowers of their color.
"Thoro is no oxeuso for leaving your
roses to fade during the night hours
when you arc asleep , and they can fur
nish pleasure to no ono except through
their fragrance.
"During the night hours roses should
bo placed whore they will have cool ,
moist air to refresh them , so that they ,
as well as you , may have a 'beauty
bleep' and wake the next morning
brighter and prot'tior for the night's
rest.
rest."If
"If you have a cool cellar where the
temperature is equable and the air
damp , put the roses there. Any collar
room which is removed from the heat of
the furnace is a good place to store
thorn.
'If you have a refrigerator , you can
keep the roses on ice over night. Wrap
them in paper and lay them on the block
of ice in the ice box. When you put
them in water in the morning they will
show almost immediately the eight or
ten hours development.
"They have not remained in a state of
suspended animation. They have grown
all night to a rarer perfection , holding
their beauty of form and color , instead
of drooping on their stems , as they
would have done if loft standing In a hot
room all night.
"Tho simplest way to provide for
flowers at night is to put them on a table
in the window of your drawing room behind -
hind the lace curtains. They will get a
supply of fresh air through the window
crevices , and the curtains will protect
them from the overheated heavy air of
the room. I have known roses of ordi
nary varieties to last moro than a week
when kept in this way.
"Hoses are good travelers. They can
bo carried almost any reasonable dis
tance at any season of the year with the
certainty of arriving in good condition.
"Tho b'-st roses that are sent into the
west comes from eastern greenhouses ,
and Washington ships more in a year
than any ether city in the United States
excepting Now York. Washington can
boast , too , of the largest slnglo shipping
house for ro-cs in the world.
1'ho system of [ jacking by which
roses are kept fresh for days , and oven
weeks , while traveling , is odd and inter
esting. In the summer bcason , or , in
fact , whenever the weather is not bit
ter cold , the roses arc laid in a long , Hat
box with their heads at the two ends
and their 'feet' in the middle.
"They lie in rows , ono abivo the
other , at each ( Mid. There is no pret
tier sight of its kind than a box of
'lra\eled' roses freshly opened. Over
the stems of the roses are nailed two
btripof wood , which act as partitions ,
making a central compartment whore
the rose stems meet.
"In thU central ( lompurtmont is placed
a lump of ico.It is larger or smaller ,
according to the distance which the
flowor.s arc to travel , if they are going
to Denver , it would bo largo ; to Chicago
cage , it would bo small.
"The wooden box protects the ice
from the heat and it melts slowly , but as
it melts it continually supplies to the
How or bU-ms cool , fresh watcr They
ask no ether nourishment on their jour
ney. Over the buds tissue paper Is
spread , \\oll dampened.
"Prepared in this way , roses were
shipped from Washington to Mrs. McKee -
Keo , President HarribonV daughter ,
when she was abroad ; and they arrived
in London in good condition , and re
mained fresh and beautiful tor several
days. It was like a glimpse of homo to
the travelers to see American flowers.
"When , the weather is very cold ,
roses which must 'travel' are carefully
packed in cotton to keep thorn from
being frostbitten , with a layer of waxed
tissuo-paper next the llowors to prevent
evaporation. Protected in this way ,
flowers are almost absolutely insured
against damage. "
At Homo , MalTeii ILirluirlnl Colonna dl Scl-
urra , pilnco of I'arlmKiiuno , lm boon 'tun-
tcnced to tliri'n month * Iniprlioniiicnl and to
pay a Ilmtof G.'JOO llro for hjtvlni ; Mild works
of tlio old masters to pi-rsons uutildi o ( Italy
wit hunt the ccmsuiilot thu Kovurumunt ,
Shakespeare's Seven Ages I
FIRST AGE. B
- - * U H
THK INFANT WIIOSRMOTHER HAS NO1 USED
J01IANN HOFF'S MALT I'.XTRACT.
At first the infant ,
Mewling and puking in the nurse's
amis.
JOIIANN llorr's MALT UXTRACT Ins attained
a world-wide icputatlon. A proof of its ex
cellency is seventy-six awards which it has
received from Exhibitions and Scientific
Societies.
X'urclinncrN nro i > nrnnl ngnlnU Imposition ami illinipnliitiiiriit. Inilit upon ( ho
Genuineivlilrh must have thosl nutiiioof " .TIIIIA.VN IlKK"on tlumrck Iiibol.
. 0
A book entitled "Shakespeare's Seven ARM of Man , " beautifully Illustrated , < cnt free on application.
EISNER & . WJENDELSON CO. , Solo Agents , Now York.
NEBRASKA CORN SPQON
T o bo exhibited at the World's Kulr.
Designed it
A NEBRASKA WOMAN
All Umilliin Jewelers luivo It ,
Trade supplied bj MRS. J. H. LYNCH , Dosinnor ,
/ / < < firnri , A" '
of Your Collar
Has much to do with the matter of whether you are becomingly dressed. A very
few men can wear most any width of collar ; the build of some absolutely requires
thatah'igh collar be worn , while to many a low collar only is suited. You may
be one of the latter sort. If so we wish to call your attention to some low collars
we have just made. You will like them. They are
CKieif Brand , Ullampa , Narrow ;
( Tcraymo , Very Narrow.
25c.
Coon Brand , ( Ramont , Narrow ;
2Oc. } Euclid , Very Narrow ,
BUY THH morinROH SHHVT , . fl MpTT ffi
u win p suit YOU. : tLU i-.ii , tu ,
THE
7
OF OMAHA.
ABSOLUTELY
FIRE PROOF ,
NOT A DARK
OFFICE
IN THE BUILDING
68 VAULTS ,
TUB INFANT WllOSf. MOTIIKR HAS TAKSJf
J011ANN HOFF's MALT KXTRACT.
The Infant's ' tedious mules and pukes ,
Nor nurse , nor mother do distract ;
For both inbibe their daily dose
Of Johann HolT's famed Malt Ex-
tract.
/ S4l 'i
li ltofeJj ,
INCANDESCENT
ELECTRIC LIGHTS
PERFECT
VENTILATION
NIGHT AND DAY
ELEVATOR
SERVICE ,
DIRECTORY OF OCCUPANTS :
BASEMENT FLOOR :
I.'IDKMTY TRUST COMl'ANY , Mortgage i-'OUKriT 1WVWN OHMBTnitY ASSOCIATION.
l.OAIIS. OMAHA KKAI , US PATH AND 1'KUsT OO.
MIJIH & GAYUJIU ) . Mortgage Loans , Heal Kiii : : > JOII HUNTING CO
Kr'uto nnd Insurance ) .HIT.I > IIIN : A. CUOWK. iimrut.
MrOIEILANI > .t ' 'O. . Coal. It II OAMl'imi.U Court Kotnnda , Claurs and
WYOICOFK.SKAMANS & HKNIUHCT. Horn- Tobacco.
Incton Typuvrrllorsnml Supplies.
FIRST FLOOR :
urn nusiNRSs OPKIOE. I' . R . - O. I'rasco Painter.
OINTUAI : , LOAN AND TUHST en. stii'niti.NTCNDKNr m.i : uiJii.iHNn
AAlhltlCAN WATBIl WORKS COMl'.VNY. wisTiu.N : UNION Ti'iiouAi'ii : oKi'ioa
ntANo I , Riivi.s.t : ; co. ,
SECOND FLOOR.
MAPHAritl'Sr.TTS MUTUAL I.IKE IN't-UR- IIARI'MAN , t ROIIIIINS.
AMM ; co. C HARTMAN , Insnoator I'irn Insiirnnco.
C X ni.CiUTTER. Law Ofllco. MANHATTAN MTE I NMIRANOE OO.
IhAAC ADAMS. Law OHIci ) . II. A.WAONEIi , AxuiitlJnllu.l&l.itlM Acoldont
DR. CHARM : * ROSUVATER. Insiir MICH Co.
CHRISTIAN SCIENCE READING ROOMS. DR. ,1. E l'RI > Xr.lL. Nose and Throat
EIJUITAHLE LIKE ASSURANCE fcOOIETV.
THIRD FLOOR.
R. W. \TRICIC. . Luw Olllco * EQUITY COURT. Room NO. 0
IK ITED STATES LIKE INSURANCE CO. PROVIDENT fAVI.MJS LIKE CO.
ANGLO-AMERICAN LOAN AND TliUsl'CO IMC. S. R. I'A'ITEV. lintl"t. ) )
DR O. H IIOI-'KVA.N. E. W. KIMEitAL.VM SIMERAL. Luw Onicnii.
M. It. TUVUEKMAN Attorney. THE GRAM AM'HALT 1'AVINO AND
EQUITY COURT , Room NO. 7. SLAGOLI1IIIC CO.
FOURTH FLOOR.
I'AOIKIO MUTUAL LITE AND ACCIDENT CONNECTIOUT MUTUAL LIKE 1NSUR-
I.NHrUASCE O. ANCE CO
W. A. WEBSTER STAI'J.ETO.V LAND CO.
WEIlhTER. II'HVARD & CO. . Klro If su..ino . 1'ENN MUTUAL I.IKL IMUJRANCECO.
MAMMON I ) TYPEWRITER CO. n/.RTroRD Lin : * .ND A ; NUTY ; co.
WESTERN CAR SEJ.VIOE ASSOCIATION. OMAHA TITLE AND INDEMNITY CO.
.1. L. liLACK. Civil Enxlnuur. A. M. HOPKINS. Court Htunoirr.inliur.
( i. W. SUES A. C'O . Solloltornnf 1'iluiits. INTERNATIONAL i'UHLISIIING AND I'OR-
IlAMvERH LOAN AM ) HU1LDI.NG ASSO. TRAirt'O.
CITION. . A. h , MFANOII , Siono < raihor. |
STANDARD ACCIDENT INSURANCE CO. , ALEX MOORK Loins
1'uiuy II I'nrd. Agent. UMKOR.M COLLECTING AND KEI'OUTINtl
DR. GRANT CULL MOREOou.Ist and AurlaU AGENCY.
OMAHA COAL EVCIIA.GK. : J. E. HACKENIIERG , Manufacturer Agon .
J. M. IIRUNNER , Hunting Agjncy.
FIFTH FLOOR.
ARMY HEADQUARTERS , DEPARTMENT I
OKTHEI'LATTE. |
SIXTH FLOOR.
Iir.r. EDITORIAL itOOMS. MISSOURI YAI.LEY GRAIN OO.
IIKKCOMPOSING ROOM. KAMILl'ON LOAN & TRUSI'CO.
O. K. REINDOltl'K. Architect , CREW-LEVICIv CO. . I.iibrloiitlimOlli.
MANUTACTURERs AND CONSUMERS AS WALTER EMMONS llarlicr Sliop.
SOCIATION. I ) . S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFPIOIH.
SEVENTH FLOOR.
ROYAL AROANUM LODGE ROOMd. |
A few more elegant office rooms may be had by applying
to R. W. Baker , Superintendent , office on counting room floor.