THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , JANUARY 22. 1S93-SUTEEN PAGES , DOINGS IN WOMAN'S- ' WORLD Bita of Life and Oolor Visible in the Feminine - inino Domain. FASHIONS , FADS AND A FEW FANCIES { lijftlrnt Ucnntjr Itoilttrrtl In rlRiirra A Itcrcnt Tout of Woman' * tinmtaticjr I.lKlit nun MoineBtlcTopIr Doing * of Noted Women , TIlBtory is full of Instances of women whoso best qualities appear wlion these whom they love are In trouble and dan ger , and Mine , do Lcssops , the wlfo of tbo vonerublo canal digger , once known n the "great Frenchman , " furnishes a new illustration of thin constancy. She has from the outset assorted that the man whom she loved and admired so much as to marry him when ho was nearly threecore , and to whom she has Binco borne eleven children , could not himself bo guilty of dishonesty. Ho has been hoodwinked , nho says , which , con- Bjdorlng the magnitude of the opera tions , was not diilleult ; but he has never sanctioned any of the plundering said to bo BO conspicuous. Mine , do Lessons is now urn-rounded by her children at the chateau of La Ohcs- naye , a hlstoi ical castle where the beau tiful Agnes Sorol once dwelt. M. do Lcsscps inherited the llttlo estate and the chateau from his first wife , and for nearly thirty years ho has spout his vacations thoro. Nearly a quarter of a century has elapsed since the beautiful young Creole bride aided her husband In doing the honors of receiving at thin castle his cousin , the Empress Eugenic ; but she is Btill as fresh and blooming as In her youth. Yet nho has ono daughter who was married two years ago , and aliothor who is just ontorlng'upon her sixth year. Mine , do Lessens has been a model mother , nnd gracefully as she discharges her func tions as a hostess , both at the chateau do la Ohcsnayo and at her handsome Paris house in the Avenue Montaigne , the forenoon of every day is devoted to the cares of the incnugc. Would it not bo wine if some exorcises In the mysteries of money wore added to the curriculum of every girl's studies ? A boy flndu it all out by actual contact with the public as soon as ho is out and n part of it ; but a girl , bays Harper's IJa/nr , may become a mature woman , Bin-hiking then through the habit of long protection , and bo thrown on the mercies of the world with her money to fall the prey to the llrst cheat and co/on. She Is taught at school the spectra of the stais , and the map of Mars ; what pity that she should not bo instructed in the workings of life on the planet whore fiho lives ! That a knowledge of the nature - turo and meauing and care of money should bo made a part of every girl's education IH growing moro and mote evi dent in this ago of enlargement and prosperity , which puts money into the liamis of so many women. And in the coming century , the woman's century , ns it Is aliondy called , in which so many women will bo workers nnd earners of money , It is all the moro important , ii order that they may bo neither hand ! capped nor too far outstripped , that they should bo well instructed ns to business movements and investments , that they may bo directed in the right way before they sot out to earn. "The reason a man is so delighted bo- cauHO the llttlo fatrangqr is a boy is not because ho thinks his own HOX so far superior to ours , but because ho knows how much loss expense and responsibil ity a boy's bringing up entails , " said a pretty young mother to a Philadelphia Times writer. "A girl Is a constant source of anxiety from her cradle to her grave. Of course , the training of a boy likewise is a great responsibility to the parent , but so many things are condoned in the son that would foi over brand tlu daughter that there is whore the grca' ' secret of the joy always expressed ut the birth of a boy comes in. "Then look at their clothes. A Jittle boy has two or three suits , leather log' gings , a little pea jacket and a Tain and lie is just as well dressed as any of tin other small nabobs in the neighborhood You cannot if you try make him any' thing moro than a stylish little chap , whoso clothes are of excellent quality nnd numerous enough for his actual wants. But n girl. Oh , dear ! Their needs never cease. It is white drebse : with needlework and white dresses will lace ; China silk slips in all colors sashes , mulTsdainty little cloaks , muuer , 0119 hats , pins , fancy and expensive uu dorolothcH and a hundred and ono llttli fal lals thai are part and p.u-col of tin fpminino wardrobe but which are neve required for n boy. "Then as they grow older the boy'i expense decrcabcs. though the \\orri mont increases. In a llttlohilo n earns enough to buy his clothes at least , hut his sister grows more and moro expensive pensive with every year. Unles parents nro very rich it is no wonclo they rejoice when they are bles.scd witl : boys rather than girls to support. " It is a matter of interest in common women , artists and some mere men tha n writer in the San Franeibco Argonau has reduced a statement of the tests o physical beauty to figures. A young California woman of great personal at tractions was Delected as typical of the best looks among the members of her BOX on the western seaboard. A Now York girl of remarkable and typical beauty was also .picked out nnd the measurements of thoxo two alTord an opportunity for interest ing comparison. SUtoby side with Hallow's well * known ideal 'of beauty these measurements Btood as follows : California Now Vork Ilallon'i ( ilrl. ( ilrl. Ideal H. In. H. In. It. in. IlelKlit , . . 6 CU 5 IV , 6 8 l nntliof head 8H X 8H Clrciimforvnco of buit. 85 SOU St Clreumfervncaaf tilni. SS 30 Clrcunifttrenioof waist 31 1UW 3d Orcuutforoiica of n k. iJW utj 13 r ulioulilor * . . . Id * The California girl and the ideal weigh Iwtwcen 1110 and 1115 i > ounds , and the Now York girl tips the bculo at 120. The Argonaut essayist points out with jealous satisfaction that tile New York girl's waist is nearly five inches smaller than that of her western cousin , That this is entirely duo to tight lacing does not fol low , however , the Now Yorker being the smaller in other ways , and having prob ably neither the ImhlU nor the climatic advantages enjoyed by the Califorian. The pretty school teacher for n little dlvertlbomont had asked her class for the best original definition of "wife. " nnd the boy in Iho corner hud promptly responded , "A rib. " She looked nt him reproachfully and nodded to the boy rfith the dreamy eyes , who Heomod anxious to say bomething. "Mtm'ti guiding tar and guardian nngel , " ho said in response to the nod. "The helpmeet , " put in n llttlo llaxen- hnirod girl. "One who soothes man in adversity , " suggested a demure little girl. "And spends his money vrhon he's flush , " added the incorrigible boy in the corner. There was a lull and the pretty , dark- eyed girl paid hlowly : "A wife is the envy of spinsters. " "One who makes a man hustle" was the next suggestion. "And keeps him from making a fool of himself , " put in another girl. "Homo one for u man to find fault with when tilings go wrong , " said a sorrow ful llttlo maiden. "Stop right there , " said the pretty school teacher. "That's the best defini tion. " Later the sorrowful llttlo maiden sidled up to her and asked : "Aren't you going to marry thntlmnd- some man who calls for you nearly every day ? " "Yes dear " she "but with , , replied , us nothing will ever go wrong. lie says so himself. " * When the Shercof of Wu/an married , n English woman with a mind of her wn ho courted the faith that actually xjfell him. Ills imported wife declined o live in the harem with the other ponses of his highness , declined to bo- , omo a Mohammedan , Insisted on bring- ng up her children in the way she .bought they should go , and in nil other respects comported herself as the equal f nor lord and master. The shot-oof ilid not seem to mind it much , though , ho lady's declaration of independence ivas a severe trial to the other women of household. A number of visitors to Morocco have described the phases of 'amlly life , very unusual in Arab houso- lolds. which this lady introduced , and lie picture of the buxom , good-looking ivonmti has adorned more than one peri odical. Now that the shcrccf has departed his life and has been succeeded by the son of ono of his native wives , an effort s being made to deprive the English ividow of a share in the old gentleman's estate unless she adopts the faith of Islam. She flatly declines to do this. If she docs not como out ahead in the struggle t will bo her first decisive defeat. * 4t & An ideal wedding dress was worn re cently by Mile , do Guyon on the occasion of her marriage with ono of the noblest scions of the French aristocracy. It was made entirely of plain white silk velvet , the short bodice being cut blouse-fashion and fastened at the waist with some soft folds of imperial satin. The slightly puffed sleeves wore adorned on the shoulders with two "jockeys" of old guipure lace and a band of the same fabric encircled the throat. A novel and dainty way of disposingof the obligatory orange blossoms were the four cordons of buds and half-opened flowers inter mingled with a few gieon leaves , form ing straight lines from the waist to the feet ; and the somewhat conruonplaco wreath had been replaced byameio pompon of buds fastening the long tulle veil above the brow. * The people of Wyoming who permit women to vote are apparently not in sympathy with the English bachelor of long ago , who got himself into a contro versy on the subject of women's rights with his vis-a-vis at dinner. After proing and coning fcu1 a few minutes , the lady asked , "Candidly , sir , why do you oppose giving the franchise to women ? " "You will excuse mo for saying it , madam , " ho replied , "but I have not sufllcient confidence in their capacity to conduct government affairs. " "But what evidence of woman's men tal inferiority to man can you advance ? " persisted the lady. * The bachelor thought a moment , and then answered , slowly , "A simple fact is enough to satisfy my mind , and that is the frightful way in which they do up their back hair. " * The fashion of a collarette of diamonds mends close around the throat , with ropes or strings of pearls below them and falling some distance beyond the waist , is very general this winter. At the Assembly wide bands of satin and velvet , some of them pulled and ruchcd , wore tied tight about the throat , and , it must bo admitted , wore slightly sugges tive of diphtheria or tonsilitls. Arti ficial flowers in wreaths and garlands , which a few years since wore indispensa ble to a ball gown , are nowhere to bo scon now , and the youngest debutantes are clothed in plain , severe almost , tailor-made velvets and satin. Still the present style gives a picturesque effect to a ball room , and the Empire gowns , witlv their balloon sleeves and straight skirts , are becoming to a well made woman who is neither angular nor ro bust. * * Millinery Is excessively smart just now. Lace and fur add their richness to many elegant hats and bonnets. French bonnets of the niObt diminutive si/o are made of rich-toned velvets , trimmed with silk guipure loco and jeweled clasps and pins. Glace and pale- tinted velvet capotes to wear far back upon the head are edged with a roll of fur and trimmed with iridescent passe menterie , gem-sot arrows and feather aigrettes. Some of the crowns of stylish velvet round hats are studded with mock jewels. A fiat Dircctoircbonnet has the slashed crown of black velvet , lifted hero and there to show a vivid green lining. It is caught up with bunches of imigonta-coloied roses , surrounded by velvet leaves. The brim is ed < jed with sprays of shaded velvet maiden-hair fern , sparkling with bits of green glass , resembling drops of dew. Mrs. Amelia E. Barr asks the North American Review if some good and thoughtful woman who died fifty years ago could return to this world , what , in our present life , would most astonish her. "Would it bo , " says Mrs. Barr , "tho wonders of steam , electricity and science ; the tyranny of the working classes or the autocracy of servants ? No ! It would bo the amazing develop ment of her own sex the preaching , lecturing , political women ; the women who are doctors and lawyers ; who loio and win money on horses or in stocks and real estate ; the women who talk slang and think It an accomplishment ; who imitate men's atttro and manners ; who do their athletic exorcises in public ; and , perhaps more astonishing than all , the women who make marriage the cloak for much profitable post-nuptial flirtation. " # # Ladies In Denmark are continuously widening their modes of earning u liveli hood. Ono or two ladies are doing very well ns consulting dairy chemists. Sev eral ladies have either founded import ant schools or taken over the manage ment after their husband's death. Among these schools are one or two which rank with the best high schools and which have the right of sending students to Jhe universities. A Danish lady has recently , Iwlng duly qualified , com menced business as a t'ontlst. * A unique feature of a recent Texas bull Qght was the presence of a woman bull fighter , who displayed great skill in Welding the stool pointed flags and great agility In getting out of the way of the maddened animal. Not exactly a womanly occupation this , but scarcely more heartless than looking on while tha bandorlllou are gored to death and the wounded brutes arc pierced and torn by the sharp steel , aa gentle Spanish hullo * have done for pastime through all the centuries. Vrimt Women uro lining. Both Mrs. Mary Mupea Dodge and Kate Field use phonographs instead of dictating their mutter to stenographers. "Oulda" thinks that the shako-hands , as she terms it , it ) the most vulgar form ofsalutatlon. Amollo Rives has passed the last two months at Warm Springs , Va. , for her health , which has been much benefltted thereby. Mrs. Virginia Thompson , cx-postmls- tress of Louisville , says that women are peculiarly fitted to conduct postolllces , and that this fitness ought to bo rccog- ni/cd. Donna Isadora Cousino of South Amer ica , who is claimed to bo the richest widow in the world , has an income of $80,000 per month from her coal mines alone. A number of leading women of Kansas city have agreed not to wear out doors any dress or garment that docs not miss the ground by at least three inches. Empress Eugenie spends two or three hours daily on her memoirs , which nro not to bo published until twenty-live years after her death. She will not allow anyone to have a glimpse at the manuscript. Mrs. Edward Lloyd , who died in Lon don the other day at the ago of 00 , when a girl helped to entertain Blucher on his arrival in England after Waterloo , and was present in Westminster nblwy at the coronation of George IV. , William IV. and Queen Victoria. Susan B. Anthony wrote to Governor Flower a short time ago expressing her opinion that a woman should be ap pointed in the executive department of the State Industrial school at Roches ter , . N. Y. The governor thought so , too , and Miss Anthony will accept. Mrs. Florence Woodward Tibbetts , a successful lawyer of Chicago , was sworn 'n as a lawyer before the court of ap peals in Frankfort , Ky. She has no practice in Kentucky but is a native of that Sfiito , and being on a visit to her former homo , had herself admitted thoro. The late General Robert E. Leo's daughter , Miss Mary Curtis Leo , who is visiting friends in Baltimore just at present , spends little of her time in America. She has twice made the jour ney around the world and starts in u few days for Cairo , where she expects to spend the rest of the winter. Mrs. E. G. Plank of Hannibal , Mo. , while engaged in making baskets was struck directly in the right car by a re bounding withe. Since then Mrs. Plank has been unable to speak above a whis per. Mrs. Plank has received over 2,000 letters from anxious husbands inquiring into the details < of basket making. Miss Hulda Fredcrichs of the Pall Mall Giuetto staff is the first woman to bo taken on the regular staff of a Lon don paper. Although of Gorman na tionality she can both write and speak English fluently and knows both Russian and French sufficiently well to act as special correspondent in St. Petersburg or Paris as needed. While the queen regent of Spain was out driving recently her carriage ran down nn old woman who Avas trying to throw a petition to her. As soon as the carriage could bo stopped her majesty got out and helped Into it the injured woman , whom she had driven to a hos pital and supplied with every attention. Next day she visited the hospital and loft a comfortable sum for the poor patient. The betting woman has put in an ap- pcaranco in Australia and was numer ously represented on the grand stand as a taker and a layer of odds and inti mately acquainted with the practice of hedging. The costume adopted by the women bookmakers is decidedly obnoxi ous , and the antipodean press , usually tolerant of innovations however start ling , has issued a vigorous protest against the now departure. Fashion Notes. Pink heather is now an extremely fashionable table decoration , but it comes exceeding high. Buttons to match accompany many of the now gimps and galleons for trim ming coats and costumes. * Men boast of their superiority to women and yet when buttons fail they will persist in wearing nails instead of safety pins. The Empire round waist , with bolt fastened at the side by a buckle or rosette , is growing in popularity. This , however , is only of countless favored stylos. Corded silk Is replacing satin for bridal gowns , and coffee-tinted lace is preferred to others. At weddings bridesmaids appear oftener in bright colors than in white or cream. In Kansas City a band of bravo and sensible women have pledged them selves not to use , for out-door wear , any dross or garment that does not miss the ground by at least three inches. Mrs. B How was it trimmed ? Mr. B. Well , It had a cowcatcher in front , a tailboard behind , a flower garden on top , a job lot of assorted ribbons all round. You can easily make ono like it. It has been said but surely it cannot bo true that in Now York certain young men have actually been paid for their attentions to girls who would otherwise bo partnerloss at the big balls. Bias-cut double ruches or velvet , gathered with heavy buttonhole twist twice through the center , trim the skirt hems , neck , front and wrists , of line wool , satin-striped , and plain or figured bongalino gowns. Though round waists' are the fad the metal bolts of last summer have been entirely superseded-by narrojv bias folds of velvet finished nt the back with a little trim bow with two pointed ends standing stifily erect. Long coats with high , full sleovs to admit the hugo dross-sleeves , are an ticipated for spring. The leading characteristic of these coats , some of which have already appeared on our streets , is their flaring of the dress worn beneath them. Sleeves bid fair to attain the mag nltude and magnificence for which they wore noted in the reign of that royal old maid. Elizabeth. In the old days these formidable elements of the costume lent themselves to all manner of caprice and extravagance. A violet girl was a pretty sight in a ball room in Now York the other evening. Her white silk gown had sleeves of violet velvet , with the upper part of the corsage composed entirely of violets so cunningly c-cented with the veritable violet odor that the illusion was verv effective. A bracelet , recently patented , fits the edge of the cuff like a binding , or , for evening wear , adjusts Itself and finishes the rim of the glove at any point on the arm with a selvage of silver or gold , as desired. There are times when ono feels that inventors , like immigrants , should bo restricted. A manufacturer In the town of Now Canaan N. Y. , has received an order for a pair of line shoos for Mrs. Grover Cleveland. The material used is the host French kid , the size is No. 5 } and the width B. The shoos are to bo worn it is understood , during the inaugura ceremonies in Washington on March 4 The most popular style of princess gown for dressy wear is that which fits like a glove about the waist portion and under the arms , but is cut out low in the neck , and worn with a gimp of some other-fabric , to which are added sleeves that are elaborately draped or puffed at the top , and lit the fdWyurm very snugly. Extremely chic , tJi ugh n terror to the woman without H maid , is the ixinsant's corsage of VMvot , laced be mud and worn over n > iutll silk or crepe chemisette. The now _ idea is to use mock jewels ns n catch for the lacing , those appearing in impellent imitation of sapphires , rubles , , garnets , emeralds and moonstones. The gown which Ml * * Rohan wears as Letitia Hardy is a v V able antique of the date of 11GO. which' she found in ono of the quaint little shops on the Qual Voltaire , in Paris , tttst summer. The waist has not been altered in the least , and ( Its Miss Rohan with the same case and gracefulness as it may have encircled the bodice of a grand dame of the court of the Pompadour. The sleeve ulono lias been rcdrnped. v The l.utftt In .Icwi-lry. Pearls of different colors are popular In combination. White leather pocketbooks are appar ently mounted in old iron ; in reality It is silver. The flowers applied on ladles' leather pocketbooks , cardcascs and diaries are pretty. Largo perforated silver bowls with .mnlorllko curves have been introduced for dessert. Silver knitting balls , silver knitting needles and silver knitting needle cases nro for the industrious. In watches old styles nro reproduced. They are little flat time-pieces with rings of pearls and enameled pictures on ono side. The other is open-faced. Hut pins have become so elaborate that tlitevcs court them. Numerous instances have occurred of women's hats being rilled while they wore on their heads. A now chatelaine pin is an enameled sword with a jeweled hilt , which passes through tho. dress. From the sword a chain hangs on wliiqh swings the watch. The bonbon spoon is perform ted silver and silver gilt lias grown into a great shovel like ladle for serving nuts and raisins at dessert. Those are wonder fully decorated. A now souvenir ladle is a fac simile of that used by Washington , and bearing his crest. The head of Washington is on the handle with dates of his birth and death. On the reverse side is Washing ton's autograph in fne simile. Jeweled and enameled swords and dag gers of gold representing the weapons of all nations , flowers in natural colors with or without gemmed centers , and still later a thistle of white enamel , are designs for hat pins.o AVIioro 1'nrrotn Como from. On a New York elevated train the other evening was n short , thin man , tanned evidently by exposure in the tropics. Ho carried , covered with a plaid gingham aproiir a curious old- fashioned cage in w hipjrithei'o was a line young , green parrot. "This parrot , " ho f&Jd to a Tribune man , "is a young birdj-iund ns you see , well trained. There Int'o two ways of getting these birds , by trapping and by catching the young bir/lsj in the nest. A trapped bird is wild and it takes two years to train it , for -'bites and lights like n 'sogor. ' Thisi jyoung ono was trained in twelve m tjhs. Every six weeks I go to Vonozuetliv on a sailing ves sel and try to bring back fifty parrots with mo. The Indian's , jenteh them up the Orinoco river , and whenever a vessel comes into port thorosltt a lively scram ble on the part of the natives who have parrots or anything rise to dispose of. The training of parrots is a regular busi ness for many of the iwtlvep- the seaport ' port towns of Venezuela' , and whenever I have touched at the ports of Brazil or Colombia I found it much tbn same , except - copt the Brazilian parrots are harder to got along the coast. Indians do nearly all the trapping , far up in the interior. "This parrot is for a friend of mine in Forty-ninth street , to whom I have promised one for two years , but never could pick up a really line ono. When I am in port I have so little time that I have to take such birds as are offered , If I wore going to sell this ono I should ask $10 , although my regular price for a young bird is. % . That is what the bird fanciers pay mo for them , and they cost mo $4 ; that is what I paid for this ono six weeks ago at La Guayra. Ho speaks Spanish , of course , and swears like a trooper in a dialect of Indian and Span ish ; his last owners in the city of La Guayra taught him all of the latest slang they know. " "Yes , " ho continued , " $ l is all I make on ono of these parrots , while on a trapped bird there is only about CO cents to bo made. I buy them for S2 or $2.50 and soil thorn for 50 cents advance. They got awful seasick on oven an ordi nary voyage and require as much atten tion as a sick baby , and many of them got so lonesome when they are shut up alone in the hold that they die of a broken heart , it seems to me. "Oh , how easy they die , " reflectively sighed the man. "On ono trip I was bringing up seventy flno parrots and when wo wore only three days out they began to take sick and die. The ship's doctor said it Was a kind of infectious pneumonia. At any rate , they all died but two. That was a bad voyage for mo. " Cnpim's Prank * . Many good stories are told of Cappa , the dead bandmaster. While a young man at the musical academy ho formed the acquaintance of a shoemaker , who \\asa sort of seer in the little Italian town. They wore together a great deal. The shoemaker had a habit of playing practical jokes upon his friends. He made un appointment with young Cappa to meet him at a certain tunnel in the outer limits of the village at II o'clock at night. Cappa went at the hour agreed upon , but the only thing ho saw was a figure in white which ho took to bo a ghost and which jcnUsed him to run back toward the academy as fast as his legs would carry him. On his way hemet mot a follow student , who told him that the identity of the glwist and the shoe maker was the same. Then ho hit upon a scheme for returning ! fho joke which had boon played upon him. Ho put on a mask , got a brace of pistols and held up the ghost for every Ottht it had in its pockets. At the end , tyf the week the young musician returned the purse to the shoemaker , wit ] & word or two of advlco about ghosts. While ho was sorvlijin } the band of an Italian regiment liuiimd three other young soldiers lot thongs/rives down out of the windows of thoiiM'ooms by means of a rope in order to itffy'nd a masquer ade in the town. At tub-ball the colonel of the regiment recognized Cappa , despite - spite his mask , by means of his spurs. "Tho next time you want to disguise yourself , Cappa , you hud bettor take off your spurs , " said the grim old officer. "A true soldier is always in his boots , " answered the young fellow. "That remark saved you a week In the guardhouse , " replied the colonel. Mrs. Julia Llnthicum of Now York was loft , at the death of her husband , .sixteen years ago , with u 2-year-old daughter , and without money. Though a lady born and bred , and bclpnging to an old family , she decided , despite the protests of friends , to ojioii n laundry as u means of self-support. After consider able dllliculty , she scoured the contract to do all the work for the Pullmans , and her laundry has grown until she lias the work of several steamship lines. ' "MY GROCER PUT ME ONTO Pears' THIS Soap What is wanted of for the skin is to soap S T&JrJ'f \ * & f wash it clean and not hurt it. Pure soap does ard ) ii does j that. This is why we rje claims for ft } want pure' soap ; and , when we say pure , we YOUR Grocerforit , mean without alkali. aid ? INSIST onfavir/sfit. / Pears' is pure ; no al THE BEST SOAP MADE kali in it ; no free alkali. FOR ALL HOUSEHOLD PURPOSES. There are a thousand MADE ONLY BY virtues of this one soap ; is enough. You can trust N.K.FA1RBANK&CO. CHICAGO. a soap that has no biting alkali in it. All sorts of stores sell t , especially druggists ; VTlthoutiionprnn.liTUIiout prloj. ill sorts of people use it To the SICK You nro not well , nnil have no money or ttmo to sue a doctor. Cutout the name prlutoil huro. 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