TUB OMAHA DAILY IHSU ; SUNDAY , DEQEMKEU , I. 1392-TWJBNTY-FOUll PAGES , 23
A NICHE IN FHIfc'S ' GALLERY
An Honor Universally Ooncoded to a Womin
of Great Doccb.
CHARACTER SKETCH OF FRANCES WILLARD
Horror * of tlio Polillng HcilTlio I'nvorlto
\Vcilllnc rio\vpr \Votmn Inventor
T.ilk Alinut Mm 1'nlr Sex
uiitl
The llfo nnd soul of. the Women's '
Christina Tompornneo movctnont in the
United Sfitca Is Franco 1 li Willnrd , a
woman of mnrvolous orff.iniy.in ? power ,
of tlroloas.oitl and unsworvliift devotion
to tlio C'ius'j she ropro-iontj , hoinuino
and fame h.'ivo lonpud over the bound-
nrloj of nations nnd are revered in mil
lions of homos. In the currant inimhcr
of the Itavlow of lloviaws , Editor Stand
sketches the llfo and work of this ro-
markahlo woman.
" .Sho was precocious , noisy , delicate
baby , " Mr. Stead writes , "who was
brought up on the bottle , and who
could not walk till a ho was 2 yoara old.
\Vhcn bho wns ! t the family roinovofl tc
Obcrlln , In Ohio , whore , before she VVUE
4 years old , HIO ! usud to bo put on n
chair after dinner losing for the ontor-
tnlnmonl of guests. The children -foi
nnolhor girl , she of the 'Nineteen
Beautiful Yours. ' was born to the Wil-
Inrds was hrought up wlili a ritriet ro'
finrd for truth , but they were allowed U
do pretty tmu'h as they pleased , Thoj
woio taught to love books , but tlioj
were not driven to housework , and tlioj
were encouraged to ronrt anil to enquire ,
Frances WIIB from the llrst given ti
question everything.Vlicn llrst toll
that the bible was God's word , aho im
mediately asked , ' 13ut how do yoi
know ? ' and It was ono of the standing
dinicultlcs of her uhildhood , how if Goi
woio peed ho could permit the ghnsllj
horror of doath. Ilor inquiries wen
tiover choclicd , but rather encouraged
mid hur mother ; h d the aali [ autlon o
seeing her daughter ti declared Moth
odlst Chtistliln before aho had iittalnei
lior 20th year. * * * Frances E
"VVlllnrd , oven If aho had been a makei
of sepulchresvould have boon a person
ulity well worth studying. As a huinai
1 who is , , in intiny respects , unique. As i
woman she occupies u place by horsol
apart. A besuillful character i
beautiful although its beaut ;
'
. blushes unseen , and no ono wh'
lias hud the honor of Miss Willard'
friendship would deem it otherwise tlur
a privilege to have the opportunity e
introducing her to the wntusl possibl
circle of readers. Hut the .supremo in
portanco of MibS Willard consists in th
position which she holds to the tw
great movements which , born at th
close of this century , are destined t
mold the next century as the movement
born in tho. French revolution hav
transfigured the century whifih is no1
drawing to its close. 'The cmancipa
lion of man and the triumph of fro
thought , which were proclaimed by th
French revolution , were not more di ;
tinctivo of the eighteenth century thn
the emancipation of woman and ti :
aspiration after a humanized an
catholic Christianity r.ro churtcristlc i
our own century. Of both those move
mcnts Mibs Willard is at this moinoi
the most conspicuous representative. "
* -4
The favorite llijwor at weddings th
Benson , according ; to Harper's Bazar ,
the chrysanthemum. The altar lioh
largo vases and Japanese trees of whil
chrysanthemums among the famllit
palms , the bride ehooaos the same bio
fiom for her bouquet and the bride
maids carry pink or yellow chrysanth
mums. The groom and best man Inn
u largo blossom foraboulonniuro matcl
ing those in the brido's bouquet , whi
the ushers have an equally largo colon
chrysanthemum to correspond wil
thoqe carried by the bridesmaids. TI
"spray bouquet" is used for these larf
flowers , with some of the blossoms hnn
ing downward like pront tassels , and i
are tied with many long loops and en
of ribbpn two inches wide of a corr
hponding color.
At a recent wedding , when the bride
gown was nearly covered with inherit
lace and her bouquet was of whi
'chrysanthemums ' , the seven attonda
mnidims were .white satin Empi
gowns , the waist of natural long
given a short olliclt by a g'mllo of ma
bun'JB of bilvcr galleon , each resting
n fold of satin. The gowns were
prineosso breadths , cut down square
the nock , the skirt n very short round
doml-train edged merely with a narn
satin fold headed by silver. Full sh <
puffs served ns sleeves and gave grc
breadth , over which fell apnulotl
of nnpliqiio lace , very wide a
very full. The charmingly wav
hair hold directly in the back n uln
veil made of n breadth of tulle attach
by two lyro-shapcd ostrich tips , qu
nhort , and nlacod buck to back. T
long white gloves were of Suede , a
the white satin slippers had tthii
stone bucltlcs. Largo bouquets wore
palo pink ( . 'hrysantheiniuns t'ngod wi
lilac. The men of the bridal process !
were very long English frock coats
black worsted , dark striped trouse
white scarfs with pearl pins glvon
the groom , nnd shoes of patent loath
Some of Iho number were pearl 1
gloves , while others were tan-coloi
i gloves of undressed kid. Pink ahrys
, thomums were used ns boutonniorcs
, Iho ushers , and white by the groom t
' best man.
*
* *
The folding beu is no doubt
thoughtless persons considered a ni
important invention , but It may bo qi
tloned whether it is not the most di
I aging of all modern appliances. It ' ,
[ inndo smaller rooms possible , in
r opinion of the Now York Lodgor.nndt
[ means loss air. less light and m
crowding , lint the folding hod is
established fact nnd evidently has cc
to stay. , Tills being the case , it mil
bo well to arrange it in thn enfost i
f' most economical fashion. The fold
bed sot into the wall is probably
! newest feature in this article of fui
turo. hut ns a rule the plan Is so fai
nnd the conditions fo unfavorable t
' nothing but objections can bo urgoc
thorn.
> If a bad Is to bo sol into n recess in
> wall the entire sirnco should bo li ;
with zlno with soldered joints. ' .
edges of the joints ghould bo turned
I against the face of the wall and a r
u row molding nailed on. Hoforo putt
> in place , the back of the molding she
bo thickly covered with soft putty ,
every urovleo and crack should bo c :
[ fully stopped. If this ia done it is ]
> hiblo topnisorvo sanitary conditions
I freedom from insects , IIB thezinoi
bo vashed and , in cases of infectious
oiiso , thoroughly fumigated. The t
ports for the bed can bo put in v
niotnl couplings tightly screwed do
1'alnt and ' varnish are eaon
to insect llfo and many e
> will not harbor on smoothly \
I nlshcd surfaces The open. f ] > ' ,
In woodwork are their favorite hau
but clean polished wood they do
fancy. Uoavy tubuUintinl coupll
holding a who niiittroes provided \
supports to keep the wire at the prc
A . "V
level whtlo In UBO would bo tnoxponalvo
nnd a1) clonnly ns Buch nrrnngomont
could possibly bo. All oumborsomo and
complicated boxing woodwork and up-
bolstering are simply a nuhnnco.
No bed that U kept tlfrhlly closnd into
a wiillbox nil dny is ( It for the sleeping
place of any human being , but the fold
ing bed , even in its very boit form , is
an evil , and although it is a necessary
ono'ovory precaution should bo taken to
mnku it as tolerable as po-tslblo.
To facilitate homo dressmaking , I am
going to tell you a little as to the quan
tity of slnlT needed for various articles
of attlro , says a writer In Cnsscll'n Mag-
aalno. Five yards of double width ma
terial will make nn ordinary dressing
gown. Five yards arc tincdcd for a pet
ticoat with two narrow frills nnd two
and a half of wide woolen stutT , if a foot
frill Is needed. A dozen yards of calico
must bo reckoned for half a dozen chem
ises , nnd nine yards for the bamo quan
tity of knickerbockers. I do nnt recom
mend the following plan , I simply toll
you that it is much adopted. Many
women wear no under linen save woolen
combinations , and ever these , in cola
weather , full llannol drawers and woven
woolen petticoat budlces. They reduce
the washing bill in this manner consid
erably , 'or ' with sovornl of the now
preparations woolens can bo cleansed
nt homo most spoedilv.
Dressing jackets tnlco two and a half
yards Six yards of serge , double width ,
are required for a winter dross : three
and a half yards of bilk are needed for a
satisfactory blouse. Some of the blouses
imported from Paris fasten invisibly at
the back beneath a small box plait ,
which allows the trimming of lace and.
biby ribbon to fall undisturbed. In the
front. Wide culls of lace giving u
dressy appearance , enhanced by gold
embroidered senorita jackets , are
to bo recommended bec-iuso they ii"o
notllkoly to go out of fashion , , aml the
untarnishahlo gold is so well worked it
can bo adapted to other decorative pur
poses when the original object Is of no
further use. The Empire style is the
prevailing ono forovoningdress scanty
hkirts and extremely short waists. It
will have its following , but will bo worn
by some and ignored by others , for it is
trying and requires the best of good
dressmaking. *
Mrs. Ella Noilsor. Galllnrd was in her
youth a belle of the aristocratic eastern
shores of Maryland , but later distin
guished herself as an inventor. One of
her first inventions was the amusing
automatic toy sold on the streets as the
"Irrepressible Conflict , " biing the fig
ures of an Irishman and an' African en
gaged in n Ilerco light. She also in
vented the eyeless needle , which is al
most universally used by surgeons , and ,
is useful to many other people. An
other and more ambitious olTort resulted
in the musical top , which plays a full
tune while spinning in the ordinary
wav. From none of these inventions-
did Mrs. Giiillard reap a return worthy
of the name. She was not discouraged ,
however , and has boon busy pcrfoctinn
other inventions. Among her recent
patents are a folding basin for travelers ,
a folding llatiron , a novel bird cage
chain and a musical fountain , whicl :
renders exquisite music while throwing
a stream of water from a buauti
till statuette with such precisior
that not a drop escapes t (
spoil the carpet. Her most importan
and valuable inventions are sure to wit
the blesci-i of her own box and also o
the mules. They tire n dross shield nm
si "sweat blind" for lints ( both fa
superior to anything now known ) , and i
carriage lolophone. Mrs. Gaillnrd hn
also invented a lock and key and n inu
sical paper wolcrht. The lock and ko ;
invention enables any ono by aim pi ;
looking at the key to determine whetho
the door is n.ifoly locked or "not , th
locking being registered on the key
The musical paper weight has a calendar
dar attachment , nnd is in the form of
stem-winding watch , The face of th
weight indicates the day , month an
your.
In person Miss Glnustono. daughto
of Knglnnd's premier , is tall and ritho
ungraceful , a defect which is intcnsille
by her "carelessness in the matter c
dross ; hut one forgets the want of grac
in the ehiirin of her face , which , withon
hoinsr really Irind-oine , fascinates by it
oai nest expression , says a writer in th
Ladles'Homo Jon nal. She wears he
' 3 hair brushed from her face in rathe
3o 3d severe stvlo , and coiled in a knot at th
o back of her head. Her fprohoad Is lov
"
it but well shaped ; her "mouth r.ithc
' 0h lurgo , with full , expressive lips. Mis
0y Gladstone Is of n very retiring nnturi
y having a great dislike to publiclt
ni of any" tort , ana is by n
nin menus the "strongmiuded" womn
n whom ono would expect t
idw find at the head of a college. Althoug
w her views on most subjects are o :
rt tromely strong , this fact only serves I
it intensify her individuality without di
ia traeting from her sweet and womanl
id nature. Many ot the qualities whic
sd have endeared the "grand old man" 1
rt these around him reproduce thomsolvt
id In Ills daughter , who resembles him i
to character ns she does in apnearanc
10 Ills personality hns sot its stump upc
ido her ; her nature bears the impression i
o- his. Another loss important subject c
oof which her ideas coincide with these
Mr. Gladstone is a great belief in tl
> u virtues of strong exercise , and she is i
of indefatigable walker.
Among the deaconesses recently coi
r. sccratod by liishop Potter \viib Ml
r.Id
Id Newell , a lawyer In regular practice :
ad Now York with a lurco ami romunor
n- live IwsinosB. For several years , sa
nL.y the Now York Sim , Miss Newell w
nd employed in the patent olllco in Was
ington , whore eho was first attracted 1
the intricacy of the law as nppll
by to patent cases. Lutor she cirt
) st a largo salary in Now Yo
JS- from a firm that made pate
inns law iv specialty. Having th
ns mastered the patent law , oho was a
ho milted to practlco In the United Slat
lis courts , and was frequently consulted
re young patent lawyers who had hoard
anne K , Kewell without knowing that the ,
no stood for Kato. Usuallv , after props
lit ing her brief , she employed male cou
nd sol to appour for her in the courts , b
nt ? not infrequently the judge , tired of t
ho argument of the dull counsel , order
nt- her to appear and enlighten the coui
Ity \vhloh she did in well chosen and el
itit quont language , supported by referent
to to appropriate legal authorities.
ho There hns boon quite a revolution
od nightdresses of late. The old must
ho ( 'owns , mndo to hang loose nnd strata
) Ut from the neclc , have glvon way to i
loveliest concoctions imaginable
China silk , trimmed with all the olat
lid ration of a tea gown , with frills , jabo
nd fichu olTectB beribboned and borutll
re- UUo the most otnnto wrapper. Tlio me
OSnd orn robe do nultiti mndo of palo pi
nd China silk , trimmed with accordc
iay plaited nifties and a largo jabot of t
UsU - crimped Bilk edged with laco. T
U > - ribbons are fastened at the nock , n
Ith ; passing under the arms are tied at t
ni. side , and the alcoves are also tied w !
los ribbou.
rts
ir- It is pleasant to read , In the midst
COf all the tulle about woman's Inhuman
its , to woman , of the graceful court <
not shown by Grace Greenwood to n girl
porter whom she mot at a recent roc
is :
tlon.
tlon."It
[ > or "It ia u great pleasure to inoe
young girl that Is just ontorlng the
work I have pursued o many years ; "
and nf tor a little she addoil , laying -her
hand on the girl's shoulder : "A re
cording nnpoll" _
Tlio l.ntrxt
Bonnets remain simill with close sides
and tiny old Dutch crowns.
The old-fnshlonod moss trimming la
loylvod , and is shown in mixed colors
and all popular shades.
Lirpo plaids are fashionable , and
dresses are mndo cithorontlroly of plaid
or In combination with velvet.
Whi to- felt hats are trimmed with
lirgo : bows of bright red velvet and
aigrettes and dagger of line jot.
A black velvet hat Is trimmed with
mapontn velvet and a cluster of magenta
and yellow roses , with black laco.
There is a very strong rivalry as to
who will produce the "ooH and most ap
proved dross for wear on the wheel.
"Cork soles for women'1 nro adver
tised. The presumption is that when a
wotnon hns a corlc solo , her heart is
light.
Little girls' dresses with velvet yokes.
shirred waists , full sleeves and velvet
collar and culls are preferred for ordin
ary wear.
Fashions for little plrl ? scorn to have
absorbed all of the good points for which
the costumes of their mothers and older
slstors have boon noted.
Colored kid slippers and shoos are
embroidered in steel , gold or jot , and
red shoos have black patent leather
toes and very line jot embroidery.
Pompadour brocades and velvet or
satin-striped corded sllits are used for
handsome evening toilets foi' dancing ,
teas , receptions , etc.
No girl fools wholly satisfied with bo
ng culled a daisy now. The young man
who hasn't ontornriso enough to call
her a chrysanthemum has no ical occa
sion to apply.
The linings of seal nnd fur trimmed
cloaks are unusually gorgeous this
season Palo brocades , gay tartans ,
brilliant silks nnd high colored satin
effects arc common.
Fur , velvet and galleon nro scon on
oino of the newest Imported garments.
The use of these materials on the same
dross is perhaps open to criticism-
they are sometimes used , nevertheless.
"Ho wrote some versos on her gowri , "
siys : an aspiring pooU This leads inov-
ilably to tlio conclusion that if only ho
used ink to write thorn , and the gown
itself was calico , ho got his verses into
print.
Some very pretty laced- boots , with
extra high Spanish instep , are made
ready for winter uses. These arojrraco-
ful in outline , with a moderately high
heel and with room enough in the shoo
for the wearer to walk.
Short tea-gowns are maao for youth
ful wearers in quaint and pretty fashion ,
the Empire style being a favorite with
a round waist slightly low-cut in the
nock , and full sleeves banded and ro
se ttod from elbow to waist.
A pretty night robe has a turned
down collar plaited Into wide rovers ; n
front and trimmed with rows of inser
tion and Valenciennes lace ; this is
trimmed with deep frills of Inco , bor
dered with lines of infinitesimal tucks.
There is a revival in whito-arid-gold
china , though it is not the white with
plain gold bands of our grandmothers'
day. White , powdered with gold stars
or llccks , or plain comers , with clouded
gold margins , are modern olTocts in the
combination.
Immense Empire bows with buckles
of sparkling Irish diamonds in the cen
ter uro sot upon largo round .imts of line
French felt or volvot. Other large
Alsatian bows of ocru-tinted guipure
lace have an edge of narrow dark fui
along the selvage side of the loops.
A ctylish model for a winter c' oak IE
made of a beautiful shade of blue Gor
man broadcloth ; the wrap is long and
in close redingote shape with Carriok
shoulder capos , edged with very nar
row roll of boayor fur. This wrap lias u
rich plTect but it is by no means un ex
pensive ono. '
Turbans of magenta , blue , golden
brown and pray velvet are edged with
fur and feather trimmed with foathoi
tips and ( lowers or with vohet loops ,
wl'.h a "diamond-dusted" Magyai
aigrette in the center. Very becoming
are these turbans to youncr faces , bui
flowers aad fur seem incongruous.
A pretty reception dross is of rose pinl
bsngiillno and white laco. The trainm'
skirt has a , panel at the siJo , which is
closed at intervals with ohiborato jew >
clod ornaments. Between these orna
inonts pulls of the lace show through.
A soft girdle of silk is fastened at one
side of the waist with rosettes. The
full body and puffed sleeves are of lace
The wool ground of many stylisl
striped fabrics is of genuine
serge , and an nrlistlc otTcct is given b ;
a Hut , woven stripe sot next thn shngg ;
raised ono and HO cleverly arranged tha
it looks lilco a shadow cast by the boUlo
stripe. Uornoo and Alpine chocks hnvi
a complication of bars and lines whicl
are like plaids in tholr Intorlaclngs.
Notwithstanding the fact that th
popular gloves for the season are ii
novel sliauos of green , violet , blue tini
other ugly heavy coloiM , matching costumes
tumos for the promenade , very man ;
women cling to the Sucdo and glac
gloves of tan , almond , and light brown
for the reason that they can bo appro
prlatoly worn with a costume of an
color and always look well.
Flame color and tool or apricot ar
beautifully blended in now shot silks fo
ovonlntr wear. A pretty dancing tolto
showing these two color-blondings I
made up In Empire fashion , with hug
sleeves and deeply aruhod yoke of uoli
en-groon volvot. dotted with tiny moc
rubles. The points of the yoke noarl
loach the belt of the s.hort waist , bet
. front and back , The silk skirt Is vor
cllnginc in olToct on the front and Bide
13 and extremely full in the back. Atwli
of the beaded velvet finishes the skirt i
the horn.
' Talk Alioiit IVommi.
Mrs. Lcaso , personally , is a woman i
modest and charming address.
Florence Nightingale is still livmi
72 years of ago. She is seldom soon.
Maud Thomas , a former student
Nownlmtu , England , has started a pra
tlcal technical school In drcssmaklni
millinery , cooking and nursing.
The recent death in Concord , Mns :
at the ago of 00 years , of Mrs. Lidir
n Jackson Emerson , tno widow of Ualp
n Waldo Emerson , snaps an almost fo
it gotten link between this generation an
10.n the past.
.n Nlnoty-flvo per cent of the women
js - Wyoming availed themselves of tl
s , privilege of voting for president th
) d your , although some of them hud to rh
1'lc seventy miles going to and roturnii
'lc ' from tfio pollf.
In the llvo Swiss universities of Bast
lo
, 0 Borne , Geneva , Lausanne and /.uric
id during the past summer eoinlstor , tl
number of women students was 224 ,
10
Lh whom 167 were in the medical deput
vnonts , aixty-two in the philosophic ;
and 11 vo In the law.
'
of Several accomplished young women a
ly earning good salaries in Now York 1
coachihg"8ooloty women in the topics
the day , the now books that are bolt
talked of , now worlcs ot art that are
trading attention , and iittoresllng nt
cities even in more "erlous linos.
BONNETS FOR 'EVENING WEAR
How Every Woman Mdj Bo Ilor Own
Milltiur.
TWO 'PRErTY COSTUMES IN CLOTH
Very l.nlr < t lllnt * IJpOCjvnil to Intercut nuil
Instruct the AVnninn > > f I'nslilou The
4 * rf "
Kavr .Mnmlurc Wlrrlnc Tlio
Cram for lllJr Itrnili.
[ Coprrt hill , iS3.1
I'm sum you \vnnt n root rirolly , cheap
rntn hat , onu ttint , wllP stand i.lmost , any
thing , and yet onu that will not look shabby
nnd ugly If ttio rain you started out In
should hnppon to suddenly cense ana the sun
should shine out bright ) ; before you roachoil
horao. Thli sort of Ihlnt ; happens very
often , even tlicso winter days ,
Well , then , Uko n large nicco of very tlilclc
felt the color you want , anil cut It perfectly
round ; then wire Its oJgo , Now tnko It nnd
TIIEATT.n CVrOTC.
put into tno ImcU pnil side of It such proity
curvoa and plaits'as taslo may dictnto Una at
may'become you. Curvn it slightly down
ward at t ho sides over tlio cnra so that it will
lit your head.
Take tlio plocos of full that are loft ever ,
and inalio seine pretty loops ana ends to trim
the front. Buy a few fancy quills there are
some very pretty oaoto bo had that odd a
wonderful piquancy to tuo plain tint ana
combine with your felt trimming. If you
want to introduces ii little astrakhan , all
right. It maj add to the good effect ; but if
you use only ttio quills ana tlio felt , and com
bine ihom taitofully , you'will need nothine
moro. Such a hut costs dlmost nothing , and
will stand any weather or tro'atmont.
EvonliiR hats are pajtjlgfllarly dclicato and
beautiful this wlnt K 'ho MR ones of
light colored foils n'nd jvers are all ono
mass of palo colorlnpar-pjjjvclveis , in prmco
of Wales tips , In InciiamPnna braids. The
small hats have no crowns. They have only
three or four line wires Tflt a brim , covered
with a palo shade of velvet , a few loops of
velvet m front , a couuldbf aigrette * orn
bunch of line llowors , and striags. The
crown is omitted altOR tbor , so that the
elaborate coifturo may 1340 unhindered to
any height desired.
I saw a very dainty ono | ho other evening
Two small twists of piiikSvulvot rested on
the lady's bead. At thW/front were a few
fathers of some soft creamy lace , nnd resting
between Iny a tiny fur head of beautiful
fawn brown. Tbcn'a little tiara of brilliants
crossed the lolds of lace.
Another had a ruche of black lace all
around In place of the velvet ouna , and u
bunch of pale hluo tips In front , with ono
black aigrette and two bjggoldplns. The
lady's palo bIuevbodTcaiwis"nlmoH hidden by
a lovely Marie AntoinoU.Qflchuiumoussclino ,
do som. edged with mco , that was caught oa
the shoulders with standing bows.
Have yon seen thonow miniature polerinoJ
They c.ill it polorluo in 1'aris , but It's moro
Illto a big collar with a boa bunging from it.
It t < made of u little bit of a shoulder capo , a
capo that ] ust reaches Iho shoulders , but
doesn't cover them. This capo , usually made
ol blacU velvet , is trimmed with white
Mongolian fur. From the capo rises the
highest rolling collar you ever saw ; also in
black velvet , and also trimmed with white
far. Then two long bands of velvet , about
four inches wide , are fastened to the collar
in front and full loosely therefrom to the
uround. First , however , the velvet Is
turned ever at the top several Inches , before -
fore it Is gathered to thn collar , so that it
forms a little jabot. The outsldo edzos. the
bottom and the top edge , which falls ever ,
are all trimmed with fur. Five little tails
hang from the bottom.
Then there's the now Medici collar that
doosn'tstop at the noclc , but extends Itself
Into a small capo , just covering the shoul
ders , no moro , and fittinp snugly ever the
coat or last season thut you're trying to in
vest with a Jaunty , fashionable ulr. If the
collar has a lur edge , and ii small hoad-and-
tall boa round it , you will bo far from un
successful in your attempts.
An outdoor cosiutno , an entirely now ono ,
I assure you the material is cloth , gray
blue cloth , combined largely with tan-colored
cloth. The skirt ( lures at the edge wo'ro
getting nearer the hoopsklrt dally , you will
note aad has a llounco of tan , headed with
murlcn sable , and plulied at the bottom In
very deep oolnls. Below the hips behold
another band , the facsimile of the lower In
every respect. A little farther up sea a
corselet of tan color , headed with fur and
edged with a point of whlto and silver Pin-
broidory. Then look upon the bodlco proper
in blue , cut open and low la front , tilled In
with a tan chemisette. Sea a tan colliir
edged with sable , and tan alcoves with blue
nulls , aad lol you have caught tbo drcsa In
Its ontlcotv.
Would you look upon another ] TbU ono
Is palo prav made of line cloth. A small velvet -
vet border lluisbes the slilrt. There's a
pocket such a blessing on ouch hip , out
lined with three black velvet banas and fast
ened with a largo velvet button. In front ,
beneath a full waistcoat of black surah , tbo
pray boiiico crones , nnd Is carried ever to
the lelt side In a square llap that buttons
there. Over the wamcoat falls a black vel
vet cape , short , and turning back in front In
big rovers lined with glowing crimson. Tlie
red gives the effect , it brings out ovorylhlng
In the gown that U pretty , and adas just the
necessary touch of color. ,
Iy the way , the Kuulim Is not altogether
dead. It dies hard , It rouses itself occa
sionally and starts up will ) something ot it :
old strength , making no snail Impression on
these that stand urouiulr Its length con
tinues to grow , both nlmvo the waist and
below , The lor. ? waist'iino or the Hussian
forma a complete contrast'to the short bed
Iced Empire ; and it Is.dillloult to bellovo ,
when ono sees two women standing sldo bj
side , ono clad in an Emplra and the other ii
a HuBstan , that they arflaflctually ondowci !
with similitude of form. Homo pretty Kus
sinn blouses have fur collars , fur edges am
fur glrdlos , as well as ejbow puffed sleeve ;
caught In a band of fur.
The Hinall ncolc boas are , ouch a comfort
are they not ) Ttioy canbo , bought for si
little , und thuy'ro so veryoecoramtr , For al
tbo alleged kohnesf. and sympathy of womar
we wear those little fur'iibads without a bl
of compunction. Wo puonbora on our huts
coats , till ever our powi/w.on our boas am
mulls , and never feel , M , all remorseful a
the amount of additional pan | our latest fa <
has brought into the world. Wlioro's the
society that started the crusade against tin
wholesale slaughter of tbo birds ) It ouch
to add a now branch to 11 $ work embracing
such a reform. The use of birds lias bo
coma loss popular slnco so many fasnlonabl- -
womna pledged themselves to wear no morose
so that tbo society has been able to res
somewhat from Its labors , Hut bore Is ai
opportunity for It to strike out in a nov
direction ,
Would the world of women stand by thorn
Or will these poor little fur heads bo'huntei
down uutil ihoy are utterly cut off , untl
they vanish from all tlmo from the face a
this world of ours I EVA , A. SCIIUUERT.
There are about 2,000 members of th
Daughters of the American Ilovolutloi
in the country now. As u mutter c
I fact , most of thorn nro great-grand
daughters of thu American rovolutlor
J of course ;
Soap
To keep the skin clean
is to wash the excretions
from it off ; the skin takes
care of itself inside , if not
blocked outside.
To wash it often and
clean , without doing any
sort of violence to it , re
quires a most gentle soap ,
a soap with no free al
kali in it.
Pears' is supposed to
be thq only soap in the
world that has no alkali
* * *
in it.
it.All
All sorts of stores sell
it , especially druggists ;
all sorts of people use it.
If yon 1mvo
I'rocklos Is nnxl
your fiico Is lo
Ulrty. Godliness.
How to Cure Freckles
IN 3 DAYS.
MME. M. YALE'S
FREGKLR
WILL DO IT.
Since llio bCKlnnlngoF tlio world pretty rnooi Inva
been spoiled with freckles iiuil tin ! imut beaiHIfu
complexions Million up by these unslclitly blemishes.
LA FRECKLA
In llio onlr euro ever known Dlscinrred by MM1S
Al. Y.M-K , the worM-fnnicrt Benin > ami Complexion
bnertallHt. .Mine. Vain han treated uriinnail liiMid-
of Kuropo. Indies of tlio Wliltu lltm o.in : I tlio celohs
titles ot tlio world. Wrltn her In conllilonco. blui
c n timko you beautiful , Hliucun nmko you yountf
ncaln. Turn Bray Inilr to Un rritiiml color. Noilyo
used nothing but ini'diclne. Miociu develop your
bpftt.Hll out your MinUtm client , rnreou of any skin
blemish , bcnil tor her faiuoui llenuty Hook. It will
be in.illcil you free. All of Mine. Zulu's remodloi
will bo shipped you from ChtciiKo , or ) ou can eel
tUem from your druggist. Ho will tot them for you.
Go to yourilruj-'clst on Momlny anil net n bottle of
La Freckla , tuko It home nml npply II tira > rllii to
directions on Momlny.Tutsdny niul Woilne'dny , nnd
on Sunday you will not huvun ireckle. Yournim-
plevlon will bo us pcrlcct uswliea a little baby. This
Is absolutely true. 1'rlco Sl.OO.
Mme , M , Yale's Temple of Beauty ,
146 Slate St. , r. S.-Send
for M M K-
VALH'S val
MaiIDepl.52 nnblolleauty
. Hook Free.
FOR
FAT
FOLK.
Dr. Edison's FAMOUS PILLS AND
BANDS and OBESITY FRUIT SALT
reduce your weight without dlotlne ;
cures the causes of obesity , such as
dyspepsia , rheumatism , nervous
ness , catarrhkidney troubles ; keeps
you healthy , and beautifies the com
plexion.
OiiiCAOolioAun
I'Knln write you to say f have lost in
jiotiiius , iniikliiK' pounds lost In 10 wculcs by
asliis 4 I'ottlus ' of Dr. Killson's Obesity 1'llla
nnd wcnrlnsr hlsOboMty Hand.
Very truly youra , ( JHAHLES II. KINO.
i'rof. HAI.K , Chicago University , wr-tcs to the
Uhlcazo llcralO. Sept. 18 , 1SJJ ;
Corpulent mou should nay some attention
to rcdiiolnx tliolr wolsht When a man Is
; roubluil with rhouimillam , dyspepsia. Kidney
[ rouble or nervousness thu reducing ot wolKht
.B slower , until the Obesity 1'llls have cured
thn dlscaso that caused ohcslty. L'he pilla
soften and bnautlfy tlnvskui of the { aeo.
I am at liberty to olto u cast ) In nolnt. Undot
ny advice Mr , Armour used nn Kulson Obesity
Hand .iiid ; i bottles of 1'llls unit lost 2. ) pnunda
.11 fl weeks. Other patients have been equally
ruccessful.
Limit. G. A. PCOTT. Revenue ) Culler Ilamlln
writes to tltg I'orriMponiIiMicK iJupartinem
nf llm Now Voik giinclnv World :
Tliroo yoari ace I wolRheil KGS pounds , bm
afturtislnz Dr. Kdlson's popular Obesity Pill'
mill Halts I reduced tn 1C' ' ) pcinniU nnd naallj
Ifeop at thin wnlsnt. I saw how union othui
corronpniidunthpt your valuable papurs won
l.imollltcd aud wl.slio to otho Ur.'s. treat
inent a trial.
Dr. Edison's Obesity Fruit Salt is tin
best anil simplest remedy for regulnlinj
the ucllon of the liver that has boon ills
covered. The printed formula on tin
label of the Fruit Salts shows their vnlui
to sufferers from excessive fat or Hash
Band measure at Noa. 1 , 2 , ! ! , Prlci
$2.50 to 80 Inches , nnd 10 cents extra fo
each additional Inch ,
Pills $1.50 a bottle , or three bottles fo
$1.00 , enough for ono treatment.
Obesity Fruit Salt $1.00 per bottlo.
You can buy the Pills , Hands and Sal
direct from our atoros , or by mull or ox
press.
CSfCorrospondoneo nnd goods forwat
ded in plain , sealed package.
NOTICK. Dr. Edison's Eloctrlo Belt
nnd Finger Rings nro sold at our stores
Send for our special Electrlo Belt Clrct
lar , sealed.
Kloetrlo Bolts $1.00 and up. Insoles C
cents per pair.
For Sale bu IJruonlsLs.
Wholesale druggists of Now York Clt
who carry our goods in stock :
Charles N. Crittonton & Co. ,
McKos on & Rabbins ,
W. TI. SchlolTolin & Ce
And other loading houses
LORfNG & CO. ,
Proprietors and Gon'l Agents ,
42 F West 22nd St. , Now'York Clt' '
'
10 F Hamilton Pluco , Boston , Mas'
84 P Eaat Washington St. , Chlogo II
Cut this out and keep it , and send fe
our full ( eight column ) article
on Obesity.
He nil | if In MlfuddrrAM-il luiu petit
vrlopu for vulutilile luroruintloit i
KurJIuffdlrr. h'J'H V lUIIT < : i Ull
rorrt poni1ctit'e fuuOdtntt
ITvi , t UidAt-U , U
SAVE YOUR TAGS.
TO THE CHEWERS OF
PLUG TOBACCOS , WE OFFER FREE
Aii Elegant 300
Gold Watch FOR '
i'S.
This wntcli Is stem wind nnd stem sottop , 18 size open face , n flna
American movement , with patent dust proof snfety pinion , and.
guaranteed to bo u first class tlmopleco in ovorv respect.
A Handsome 50
Silk Umbrella FOR Tags.
This Umbrella is gents' sUe , 23 inches nnd 8 ribbed pnragou
frame , With fine handles of natural wood and ' attractive silver-
trimmings.
A Fine 4-Bladed 25
Pocket Knife FOR
This knife hns beautiful white or sing handle , 8 or 4 blades , solid
patent back , and is mndo of the very bsst steel , combining highest
quality and durability.
These brands are well Icnown nnd give perfect satisfaction
wherever sold , asve onlv manufacture fine plug tobacco. Try
them.
them.Any of the above offers sent promptly on receipt of the required
number of tags.
This offer will continue after January 1st , 1800.
Write your name nnd addreos plainly and mnil to
PERKINS & ERNST , Covington ; Ky.
NOTICE What some of the dealers of Omulia [ who are handling PALM LEA1T
TOHACCO ] say : OMAHA , Oct , 23 , 1891 ! .
To whom it may concern Wo the undorsijinotl dealers of Omaha , are handling
PALM LKAP TOnACCO , and will say , wo find it in quality equal to any pound
lump wo have ever handled. When sold to n customer ho will call for It again.
The deal connected with It ia a square one , and tlio host wju have over seen. Fur
ther , wo cheerfully recommend it to any dealer who will take an interest in show-
in" it.
.T. P. Tar ploy , H',20 DoiiRlns St. T.V. . Ponnoll , 1SOG , S. 13th St.
R. Costello , SOG N. Kith St. Von KroRO & Pnhl , 17th and Clark St.
Viors Bros. , 019 S. 13th St. F. .T. lllb.ik , 1821 Clark St.
M. F. Tinuns , i22t ; N. 13th St. J. P. Jorpe , mi N. 19th St.
.lohnson Bros , Park Avo. L. A. Mlack , 1000 N. 2Jth St
Fred Armhrur t , 1907 Vinton St. Ktiuolph Uoal , 1000 N. IMlh St.
W. D. Edwards & Co. , SGlh fa Farnaiu Chas Ulnz , 8U N.14th St. S. Omaha.
II. S. Stilt , 1115 S. 10th St. Ilonry Lciagc , 2812 Leaven worth St.
And many others.
THE ,
OF OMAHA ,
ABSOLUTELY INCANDESCENT
FIRE PROOF. ELECTRIC LIGHTS
PERFECT
NOT A DARK
VENTILATION
OFFICE
N THE BUILDING
NIGHT AND DAY
ELEVATOR
68 VAULTS , SERVICE ,
DIRECTORY OF 'OCCUPANTS :
GROUND FLOOR :
. , . , . OMAHA HEAL KSr\TE AND TIMJST GO.
.i KKUItiSUAT- II UAMPIinijIi. llotnnda Oluiir ;
< J IMHEUTV TIUIST OOMPANY.
JI1JIK JfcOAr.OHI ) . Hoil I Till ! UKK IMUIari ROOM AND MAIljINQ
& CO. . Uoal , KOO.M.
FIRST FLOOR :
in : OMAHA jinn COUNTING itoo.M. Ad- . IUAN13 I , . HRBVF.S .t CO. , Contractors.
viTtUlnit " 'l Biib-LTlptlon ] ) opartinonts. WnflTKRN UNION TIIhRURAl'H Ol-'KlUB.
AJIhltlOAN WATKll WORKS t'OMl'AN V. OKNPRAL LOAN AND TRUHT UO.
SUI'nRlNTKNDr.Nl.1 UliK HUILIHNCJ.
SECOND FLOOR.
H. A.U'AGNKR , State Aientfur Unlle.l HtdtOi
Mutual Accident Asioolatlon. TIIK KQUITAltl/r Llh'i : AS3URAN03 30
DH. 01IARMW RJ.Sr.WATRR. 01KTY Ol'NICW YOIIIC.
1'HOVIDKNT bAVINOri UKC , of Now Vorlc OHKISTIAN SOinNCH AbSOOlATION.
jiAHaAuiuiHKTra MUTUAN UKU INHUR HKH I1UUHAU OK CLAIMS ,
ANOU COMPANY. DR. 11 , I ) , 1IIRNKV , No-ioitnd Throit.
OMAHA KIRK INsUHANOn IS
GRANT CULLIMORi : , Oculist and AuriaU
UUltllAU , 0. HAUTMAN , Iiispeetoi.
THIRD FLOOR.
KS ORANT , Contractor for 3t rout tviidbldo- 1) | { . 010AH H. IIOKI'\MAN.
walk I'avoinunt'i. '
UNITRI ) SPATES Ul'V : IN3U1UNOE 00.
ROIICRT . I'ATIIIUIC , Law '
of Nnw Vnp'c.
. cointp ' NO. ' i. . I ! . \V. HI MIIU A I , .
r.yUlTY UOIIRL' NO , 'J.
. . II. H , I.UAN AND IVVH-iTMENT GO ,
LAW . . COURT NO. I. HI ANDAHI ) AOt'IDKNT. INdlMANUE OO.
W.M.
SIMCRAU
MANHATTAN LIKfi INriURAVOE COM K 1C. PATTEN. DuutUu
I'ANY. ANOUO-AMKltlC'AN MOIITUAQB &TRUSC
M. U. TRAUKRMAN Atlornoy. UOJIl'ANV.
FOURTH FLOOR.
CONNECTICUT MUTUAL MKK 1NBUR- HODKI''KH ' ti KOWjraU , llniiiinonil typo-
ANOI2 COMPANY. V. M. KMIS , Aroliltoct. l\yrltoM ,
PATUIOK I ANl ) OOMPANV , Ownoru
I'HNN MUTUAL LU-'E INSURANOi : COM TUB .
of Ihintlm1 Plac-tt.
PANY. JOHN ] , ITIIKMI'niiiiHiiur. ;
HAinTORDLIKE AND ANNUITY INSUR OMAHA ( ; OAI , ixniANiii ; ( : .
ANCE COMPANY. ] , ! ' . I'.ICr.NUKIlU , I'rosco Painter.
. A1KMOOItlv , Itiul KjtuDaud l.o ins.
WE11STKR& HOWARD. Insurunoo. UMVCUSAI4 00M * AND UKPOUTINil
wns'i IRN : CAHPRRVKJK ASSOCIATION , AUKNOV. i
ANDRKW ROriEWATER , S.mlUry BTAPl.KTON r.ANI > CO.
J. L. IILACK. Civil Kiulnoor , JOHN It. IIAMII/roN&OO. , Insurannn.
KIAOAN : LUMIIKK t.o. I'AOIl'KJ MUTUAIj MI'K AN1) AUOIUENT
HOPKlNa .V SMITH , filouojsraphors.
UR.J. W. HOLLIUAY. J. K/HAOKKNUKIKJ , ManufucturoM1 Asent
FIFTH FLOOR.
HEAD QUARTERS , U 8. ARMY , DKl'AItT- ofmi' ; pAVMAarnit
MENTOI'THE PLATI'E , asoniuoa. PAV.MA8TKH ,
' COMMANDER.
nEl'ARTMKNT ' ' .
ASMM'AN I' QUAUrnilMAHTEB.
GENERAL.
ADJUTANT
fNSproroKsMALi : < AUMS PUAorioa.
INSPECTOR GENERAU
JUDGE ADVOCATE. oiuur or OUDNANOR
OH1EK QUARTERMASTER. jN ; iNir.uoi''i' : ' < ioKi { .
C111E1- ' COMMISSARY OK SUHSISTENCE. ? Aiii.s-ii-oAMP. ) : :
MEDICAL DIRECTOR. ASSISTANT SUKUnON ,
SIXTH FLOOR.
0. P. I1EINDORKK , AroliltooU I * 0. NA8II , i.oaai.
. HAMILTON J-OAN AND TKU3T 00.
REED JOll PRINTING CO.
EDITOUIAI , ItOOllS Of THE IHUOompoii :
U. 8. ARMY PRINTING OFFICE * . I UK , Htorouty pln iinU ( lulluy rounm ,
MANUKACTURERi AND CONSUMERS A3 M. A , Ul'l'ONOU. , Heal Uutiitu.
BOOIATIDN. T.A DAWKS. ,
J. It. 01IR1STION. IIAItliU ) : HHOP.
SEVENTH FLOOR.
THE ROYAL ARCANUM PARLOR9.
A few more elegant office rooms may be had by applying
ot R. W , Baker , Superintendent , office on counting room floor