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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 25, 1892)
THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDA . .TKMHKU 2,1 , 1802-SIXTEEN PAGES , RUSSIAN RAILROADS Cow the Iron Horse is Raised and Qroomod in the Land of the Our. TRANSCONTINENTALS AND THEIR COST Trogross of the Transsiborian Railway Binding the Baltic and Pacific , TRAINS PROPELLED BY PETROLEUM Oil Fuel Better Than Wood and Trains Are Run on Time. RAILROAD RESTAURANTS IN RUSSIA Ono at Kvory Htntlon mill Trnvolur * Somn to Knint inch : Scene lit iiTiiblo Snino Queer Fonttire * of Ilumlati Hnllroiiillnt ; . Moscow , Sept , 8. ( Special Correspondence ot TUB DKE.I The English are greatly ex cited at tbo onroachmouts of the Uusslnns upon ttio Asmtlo provinces bordering upon their Indian possessions. The fact Is thnt Ituisla regards Central Asia as tier territory nnd sha is adding to her Asiatic possessions much faster than the world realizes While J wns In I'olUn a year or so ago I heard the Chinese growling at the way In which she was inching upon them. Every year or so Itusila would move the boundary line n little bit further down and she has so enlarged Siberia that , the country contains more than 4,000,000 square miles and It promises to boone ono of the most valuable countries of tha world of tuu future. Tlio whont area o.f Siberia U rapidly Increasing and tboro Is a vast emigration going on from Hussiu Into Siberia which promises to change tlio face of that country. The Siberian trade of Hussla already amounts to millions of dollars n year , and on the Volg.i you sea caravans of boats loaded with Iron uud wheat and salt , wlilcli Dave boon brought from SiborU t I'orm anil thence floated down the Kaman rlvor Into the Volga and up tno Volga to Nlnt-Novgorod ] , frotu whence they go by rail ever the empire. The increase In Asiatic exports and Imports slnco the build ing of tbo uuw railroad to Samarcaud Is wonderful. This road has boon in operation only about five years , and It U already payIng - Ing expenses nnd a moderate Interest on the Investment. It runs more tlmn 1,000 miles right Into the heart of Asia and It brings you \vittun about 500 miles of tne railroads In India. Indeed , I bad thought of taking this road to Samarcand and thence making my way by caravan and by boat across Afghan istan to Quotta or Posluuvur , wnonco I would have taken the railroad to Calcutta und thence gone back to America by way o ! San Francisco , making a tour of the worlu in this way. I llnd , however , that my time is too limited for mo to carry out this project , but I propose It for ono of tbo globe trotters of the future. It would be a now and original route , and 1 am convinced that tbo trip coul t bo madeatthooxpendlturoof a little nerve nad some money. It ought not ' to talto tnoro than a 'month to got through from Satnarcanu to Lahore , and at this point you would bo In the heart of tno wonders of north India. The English fear to build a road tc connect with the Russian line , but the Rus sians nro pushing their road right on , aud if they are let mono they will open , up all parts of Asia. ICullrunil Construction In HIISHIII. The recent famine lias increased railroad building in Russia , and a number of new roads have been commenced In order to give tbo starving peasants..something to do. Tborc is a new line being ouilt ulonc the Casulan soauud the Turtnr city of Kazan is being con. ncctod with the railway system of the Volga. The chief of tbo railway branch of tbo inter ior department of St. Petersburg , with whom I talked tliu other day , tolls motbat the work on the Transslberlaa'road Is still going on , and that about 150 miles of It bavo been built from Vladivostock , on the Pacific , to the west , and that the work Is advancing in other parts of Slburla. TuU Siberian road will run from Vladivostock , across Siberia to Russia , and It is estimated thut when it Is completed pussongcrs will bo able to go troic Moscow to Vludivostoclc in fifteen days , und the time around the world ought to 'bo re duced to less thau fifty days , i am told that the road willt cost about $100,000,000. The Russian government bus made surveys of all tbo.posslulo routes , and the one that will probably bo adopted will toke ad. vantage of the navigable rivers on the way , and will , by ibis iuouns , bo able to largely reduce the amount of track. II un ull-rall route Is made it will bo nearly D.OOO miles through Siberia alone and It will cost $170,000UOO. By the use of the rivers the uoccsHury track can be cut down from S.'IOO'to ' 2,000 mllo.s , but in tbls case the road will bo practically usolosg for six months ol the year on account of the freezing of the rlvors and lakus during tbo winter. Ucnoral AnnonkolT , the builder of the Trtnaousplan road , estimates tbut the Siberian road can be completed in llvt years , and thut by 1S07 vvu may have trains running from tho'Qatilo tc tno Pacific. Thu road will open up so mo ol the richest wheat-growing countries of thi worlu aud it will enable machinery to be taken to the Siberian gold mines , which arc now practically unworked for the look of it , Siberia is being rapidly colonized by tbo Russians , but tha country Is so vait thai they can make but little Impression upon It This railroad would Increase tbo ImmUra tion from about 10,000 a year , which It is now , to hundreds of thousands ana It wll result In tbo opening up of north Asia to civ Illintlon. The fate of this Siberian road will proba bly be the same as the Transcasplan , It U being built by the government us a million line , but It will eventually bocorao a great commercial highway. Tun" Transcasplot rend u well constructed and well managed It was largely maao by Asiatic laoor and n cost only a little over f 10,0JO a nillo. The ordinary workmen upon It tucolved or.ly 1 ! cents a dny for their labor and tbo probabil ity Is that the Siberian road will tlml cheat workmen from China , Mongolia or Siberia The trains on the Tninscaspian run at thi rate of thirty miles an hour und burn uoth ing but petroleum. rrnjiollml by I'utriilmun , I have traveled on many cars huroln Rus sin which uro movca by petroleum , nna al the engines of central and south Russia nr worked xsith this fuel , It takes ,10,000 ton of this fuel every year for this Traiucaauiai road alone , and iDough the tlrst cou or tnl U greater than the same weight In oou liouorut Auiionkon estimates that ooal 01 U four times us ohuap U Us steuin-producliii power as coal , and 1 am told bv engineer hero that u pound of oil will produce uviu as much stuum as u pound of coul 1 have bum traveling this week soulu o Moscow ana 1 have taken a look ut the on glnes which use tbls oil fuel. The oil Is kop lu u tank back of the uuelno and it U Injcotoi Into the furnuco through n pipe so made tlin it meets aj9t of steam and tins stcum converts vorts the oil Into a sprnv before it meets tin llamo , and It li sorogulalou thut u steady ho tire is produced. The 11 ro in tbo bolter I llrst biartrd with coarse , Iicuvy grass o wood , and it takes u pressure of about flvi pounds to work the stuuui Jot. The engineer like It much bolter than wood , und I fount that most of tbo boats 011 tbo Volga rlvo used petroleum for their engines. The pa troloum comes from the vast Russian ol ilcldi which lie along the Caspian BOB , und I Is shipped up tbo Volga In bulk In oil ship * which uro great Iron tanks litho the shape ot barges and whicl carry thousands unmi thousands of gallon : At various uolnts along tbo Volga there un vast oil tanks , such ut you sou iu 1'eunsyl vanla , und n great deal of oil Is stored under ground in wells that are maao for it. It 1 carried Into the cars by means of pi DOS am the s mo son of tuulc-oars nro used hero fo Ihc-shlpplng of petroleum thftt von find In Amorlca. Tno can ship about S.VJODO,000 of gallons of oil n year , nnd though tin * big olty of Moscow Is Justonthf , edge of the Russian" forests a largo number of its footorlos use petroleum fuel and flnrt It much cbcapcr. North Russia Is the land ot forofto nnd If you will draw n line right across Russia through Moscow or a Itttlo above U nearly all of the territory north of this will bo made up of dense woods. The locomotives of north Russia ourn xvood nnd they have cnclnos llko our old camelbacksvlth high smokestack * shaped llko a ftinnnl nnd with great racks at tbo back of the onclno which are piled huh with corJwood. The wood Is loaded by mon who rarry It up on tholr backs. It keeps two Dromon constantly buiy throwing this wood Into thootigino and at nearly every station you will sea acres of woodpiles ready tor the reloading ot tno engines. The unglno which took mo from the frontier to Si. I'ntersburg was fired up In this way and the swcnt smell of the burn ing wood wns | > louinnlor lar than the sul phuric coal which wn burned by the trains which carried us through Gormauy. Trillin Klin nn Tlmn. 1 find the roads here well ballasted , and In the thousands of mllot which I have now tratcloa In Russia I nave vet to llnd a rough road or ono that is badly managed. Thu trains are always on tlmo and tbo roadbeds nro wonderfully wo'l koot , The road bo- twoap bt , . Petersburg and the frontier Is weeded as carefully as the bast kept garden , nnd t saw women on tholr Itneos scraping out the woods botwocn tno tloi with knives , in traveling ever thn blauk plain I saw men smoothing up tha ballast on the road where It had become rouchonoU. and nowhere have 1 scon a piece of bad roadbed. The ties are woo Jon , the rails are of stool and nt every cross road tboro stands n Russian peasant girl with n flag in her hand which she holds up when the train iroos by. This picture Is ono of the most lasting ones of Russian travel. Whether the iron horse plows his wav UirouEU the blacit plain , whether ho shrieks as bo gallons through the mighty lorosts or whistles going through the rich agricultural lands of the west , this bare headed , barefooted Russian Venus , In n bright calico dross , Is there to meet him. She knops guard ever the rend and Is tin omblotn of tbo cznr. Another emblem of the czar U the policemen at the sta tion. Each station' has its civil officers in uniform , and la addition to these there is a gendarme or u Dollccmah who Is appointed from St. Petersburg and who itnarchci up and down the platform all. day long with stmrs on his high-loppod bontt ana with n great sword at his side. Ho wears a rod cap , with n feather In it and acts us though ho owned tno ro.ul. I tooic a photograph ot ono of these men nnd cnmo near being urrcstod for it. The man objected violently , but ho did not know that luo picture was taken until the train was about to leave , and I laughed at him ns I .stood on the rear car with my kodak In my bund while the train was carrying us away. It takes about llvo minutes to start n train In Russia. There Is a bell ut every stntlon , nnd this is rtinir three limes boforu the train leaves. You can toll by the tops Just haw much lime you have : . Klrst there Is ono tap , then after nn Interval of a couple ot minutes two taps ara sounded on the bell nnd two minutes after this three taps are rung , when , uftur a shrill whistle from the station master , the train gets ready to start. Queer Itiillroiul Features. There are many queer features in Rutsian railway management. The Russian curs ara llko no other cars in Europe. They are half Euroocan nnd half American. They are of throe classes nnd tbo rates are no higher than ' they are In the United States. Thu' dlstuncu from St. Petersburg to Moscow Is101) ) miles nnd the road is as tttrnight as a string. There are llvo trains cvcrv day , and It takes about ten hours to go from oncpoint to the other on. an express train. There is u difference lu f uro on the express over the ordinary train und the tlrst-cluss express rates ara ! i4' cents a railo , while the second class , which is al most equally RS good , are onlv % } { cents , and the third class uro loss than 2 cents u mllo. I have traveled quite a good deal In second class cars and I find thorn very comfortable. The most of the well-to-do Russians patron ize the second class cars , und as ono is ex pected to carry his own bedding by the use of n Itttlo feeing you can save money and make yourself comfortable. I found It very Inconvenient even in the first class sleeper during the first part ot mv uresont tour. I had neither soap nor towels with mo nnd 1 had to rely upon the guards for these as well as for my pillows ana bedding. In none of the sleepers do they expect to furnish you much more than a oiaco to Ho aown upon. Vou uro oxpentou to carry your own sneou and in a first class hotel , which I found ut Sarntoff , I had to muko n very pronounced kick bo/oro I could got any bcddlue. There was a mattress on the Iron springs , but there were neither sheets nor pillow cases und tbo nights were cold. After a tune I cot u rather comfortable outfit for tha night , b'ut the next day I found that this was all charged up iu my bill ana I have had to p.iy for bedding nt half a dozen hotels slnca then. Tha pnssonger boats on the Volga , which , by the way , uro very comfort able In otnor rospacU , do not furnish bed ding , towels or soap , and you always pay extra for tnoso when you order thorn. If yoii don't understand tliu Russian souiolliLos you pay when you don't order them. T remember u swallowtail waiter who made mo pay 35 cents for a cake of soap at the hotel at Nljni. I wanted a towel and In order to convoy that Idea to him I rubbed my hands ever my face although 1 was drying it. Ho rushed off and brought me u piece of soap. It was wraiinod up In tinted paper and ho lore off the , wrapper botoro I could tell him that I didn't want soap. Ho then took the soap uwiiy and I noted that it was charged In my bill , whereupon I ordoroa him to bring It back and took It with tne , as I bad to pay the bill anyhow. Kuilruiitl Kestnuraiitt In Itusulu , The Russians are always gorging. Th uvoragu man Is a glutton , and I huvo soon slander , iuiihotlc-looking Russian girls during tho-past weak who could got away with more solids ana 'liquids than any beefy Englishman I bavu over mat. Tnc people seem to cat at evcty ' tatlon , and the oouuty of it you cun find somoiblni ; good to out every tlmo the train stops. I wish I could show you a plato of Uusslun soup. Ono plate Is big enough for a maul , but the Russians laku U only as an appetizer. Thu favorite soup is called staoheo , und It IB made of cabbaga and other vegetables with u oioco of moot about four Inohoi square aud two Inches thick lu tbo middle of it. In ad dition to this they bring you n bowl of thick cream , which Is sometimes sour and some , times fresh , to pour Into it In ordur to give It u body , nna this molasses-like mixture you oat , und you llko it. Ills not bad , I assure you. But I have never found myself able tc get beyond the llrst course , fcr after you have taken the liquid part of the soup , you ara expected lovcarvo up and oat the muui , und tbo moat forms quite a meal in itself , Tbo trains usually make long stops at tno stations , and from thirty to forty mlnulus for a dinner is not uncommon. At every sta tion peddlers come around with fruits , cnkce and drinkables , aud u common sight Istbu old follow with thu samovar in whio.i ho muko ; tuu and serves to all who will buy. It make : no dllToroucu how hot It is this man ulwuys wourn his overcoat , and u loncr-vlsorod cur usually shrouds bis oyus. Ho is generally bearded and bus a fat , jolly face llko Santa Claus , His tea is good andlju erves it wilt u bit of lemon und u lump of the hurdusi sugar you havu over put betwcon your tenth , If you drink thn tea liku ha does you will put a lump of sugar butwoen your teeth and sucli the tea through this , und tbo chances un tint when you got us old as ho Is your tcolt w111 bo In tbo decayed condition of his , Nine-ionlhs of the Russian peasants uavi buu teeth , aud there U wore onuncolnr good , ontorprUlug drntlsts here than anywhere also-in the world. I don't doubt but thai thoto are 5UU i > OJ,000 ouvitios roadv at this writing In loss umpire for SUO.OuO.OOU gold ui amalgam plugs , und tbo Russian with sound tuutti is the execution. IIuu tliu PoorTnivol. It Is wonderful how much travel Is done by the poor cluss In Uussm. The third class cars are ulwuys full. They ara uioro Hue cattlocurs than anything elso. Tuero are uc cushions on tha seats and the people arc crowded in in all sorts of waya. They art not- supposed to have uuy rights tu t tbi railroad officials are bound to raspoct , and 1 saw ono man knocked down and shoved bacl Into the itatlon Just us the car was ubout u start booauso ho dlu not have his ticket it his banu , Ho told the guard thut the part.\ of peasants with whom he was traveling bai the ticket nnd they had already gotten ot the cars , but this did him no good , ant though he cried and howled he was holt back while the car bore his friends and 'hi ! family avvny , The peasant cannot travel u Russia without a passport , 1 huvo not hut to show my pattport at the railroad depot ! except when I cumo ir.io Russia , on the peasant dare not go from om port of Rtuula to the other without permission of taa local government under which ho lives , and ho Is naked to show his passport at the ticket ofllco. At Tnmboff 1 Mv u whole crowd ot peasants who wcro about to emigrate to another province. Each had bis pivisport tn his hrtnd and they stood In single fllo walling for their tutns to buy their tickets. It was at this same station that I saw my llm prison cir. These Rus sian ronas have can especially devoted to the carrying of prisoner * , nnd the prisoners which nro taiton from here to Siberia go by rail to Mini-Novgorod , whence they nro put on prUon boats and are carried down the Volga nnd up the tlvor Kama to Perm and thence start on tholr march to the wilds of Siberia. Thcsa cars had Iron bars nnd windows dews , nnd they nro guarded by noldlors who are rcaaytn shoot any who try to oseapa. The cars themselves ara third class ones and the prisoners sit on hard boards rather than cushions. It does not pay to carry much baggage In Russia. I have n trunk with mo that weighs nbout yoo pounds nnd it costs tno W every tlmo I move. Only forty pounds of baggage Is allowed with n ticket hero ni.d the excess Is always charged for. There Is no charge , however , for packages carried Insldo the cars ana tno result Is that every passenger has a half dozen bundles nnd the cars are filled with packages and baskets nnd trunks with hnndlon on them. The poorer classes carry all tholr baggage into the cars with them , nnd as most of thorn arc too poor to own n trunk they wrap tholr ijoods up In cloths anil carry thorn In bundles on their backs. If they have to wait ever night at the station they throw thesn bundles down for n pillow nna sloop on the stones , nnd a common sight nt almost any of those stations U n Russian peasant family , the father of which is gen erally stooping nnd the mother either chat- tine with her neighbors or engaged In her navor-ondlng search for tbo animals which infest her children's ' bond. Itus lii's Greatest A'oi-d. Railroads are Russia's greatest need. The present era ot railroad building Is producing but Itttlo In comparison with what Russia should have In Iron tracks. One of the great causes of her recent famine was the laok ot transportation , und there nro millions of acres of good laud bore whloh might bo made valuable by railroads. Such railroads as the country has have boon built as military roads rather than with regard to the agri cultural and commercial necessities of the country and some of the bast parts of Russia are not tupped by roads. Russia In Europe Is two-thirds the size of the United States and she b'as in her empire'nbout twlco as many people as wo have. Still wo have ono mlle of railway for every 400 p o- pla In tbo country and'Russia has only ono mile to every 5,000. Wo huvo more than night tlmea ns many miles of railroad as Russia or sixteen times ns many In proportion tion to our population. If you will take your map of Russia you will see that there Is scarcely a Una of road lu the vast area of Russia north of the line running from Mos cow to bt. Petersburg nnd I am told that there nro moro thtin 10,000,000 people iu this territory. Siberia has 4,000,000 people nnd its rosources'aro nraong tbo greatest in the world , but with the exception of this line which is being built from Vladivostock it has ro road worth speaking of , nnd there nro right m thn heart of south Russia vast provinces which have been comparatively untouched by railroads. The United States is very much like the Russian empire In that It Is an agricultural country , and with us the uvbrago distance of tbo coutor ot production from tbo nearest railroad Is loss" than four mllo- , . Hero In Russia it is 240 miles. In Belgium this distance Is about two miles , in England it Is three miles and over the whole great American continent It Is only thirteen miles. Russia is , perhaps , the most unde veloped good country in tbo world todav. \Vhai it ncods Is gooa capital and railroads allied to treed covornmont. If It ever gets these it will bo the great country of the future. FUASK Q. CAHPESTEII. LEGAL Jamcn Q. liurnctt In .Veto Enahiml Magazine. What use to mo is "Hylos on niilH ? " For " .larmon on the Law of Wills" I wouldn't give n jiiokstone. Nor would I give another for Juries nnd Jury Trials , " nor moro Tor "Coke on Littleton" yo-s , or FofChltty. Kent or Illackstono. Will Dries holu me vo pay the bill I owe for llowort ? Can her will lie chanced by rundlnz Jarmon ? What use nro "Jury Tr nl.s" for me ? Or Kent , or Ohlttyc Itluckstoiio ? he Is dryer tbnn thuosopliy. Yen , worse than any llrahmln. And "Kncelnnd nn Attachments , " lee , Has nothing In it thut will no-- Tlio title Is misleading. And tlim-uh through dusty books I roaU , AI us. I no'urc.ut loam to uleiul lu Onpld's court , so she will heed , From "titouhou's Itulesof I'leudlng. " "Collyoron I'artnorslilp" I'vo rend ( An undent worUl ; "Contracts toVod. . " Uy some ono namod.Fltzslmmem. Noreloos It soum to help mo on. That " .ManInge Settlements" [ con Or Sclionler's lotrnod book upon "Tho Law of Married Women. " There Is no .statute I can find Will niiiUo a maiden change liar mind ; Nor know 1 whore the place Is To Und a law will help mo win A suit llko mine or I'd boclu To so rch It out , It Isn't In My sot of "I.oadlns Cases. " Hut "Haylleson Appeals ! " All , there Is just thu im-wer to tny prayer ! I know now how to do lu From her decision by the seal Ot nil the courts ! I will appeal : A-id that will make tliu verdict nil , Until I can review It. JIKAVfliSS Of WILDV.IT Albany ( X. 1 % ) Journal. "Tho attitude of the dctnocraila party on the banning system of the country recalls to my mind the incidents connected with busi ness , and oven pleasure , In the days of thu oil state banks , " saiu uu old Albanian to tba Journal tliU morning. "This wildcat finance scheme of tbatrs Is not so fully understood by tbo younger people from the fact thnt tbay have only aono busi ness and prospered under our present sound national banking system , " ho continued , und added ; "Tako , for instance , an experience of my own in 1858 , and I had raoro than one , too. I started from Albany to go to Wash ington. To defray my oxponvou I drew " ? 100 in $ T bills from the Albany City bank , "which was then located on Broadway. The money was 'pai'monoy. On mv way to Washing ton I stopped off at Philadelphia. The sta tion ihcn was on Mantel street , where 1'ost- muster ( jpnoral Wanamakor's stores are now located. When ready to proceed to Wash ington I procured n ticket and tendered some of the money iu payment , They refused to receive it , und Informed mo that they 'didn't want any Now York state money but wanted Pennsylvania money. ' As It was night time , I bad to wait till morning and run around and llnd some ono who would change Home Pennsylvania money for wy New York state money , which I finally did , but not till otter I had given him a bonus , or 'shaving. ' "You see that by the beautiful workings of thostato bank system I lost twenty-four hours' time , nnd my money hud wbnt you might call depreciated In value. The Albunv City bank was ono of the best and strongest banks In existence nt tbut tlmo , but the ooor system and tbo poorer bunks nmdo tbo paper money so unreliable that people had no con- fiuonca In it. Frequently notes of ono bank that you hold ono any would bo much lower , perhaps even worthless , the next. Every bunk issued its own notes. Finally , un agency began issuing n monthly publication , which wo termed -detective,1 und which cost subscribers .5 cents a month. It gava the standing of each bank and tha par value ot the paper money Issued by any particular bank. That is only ono of the many uvils Illustrating tbo Instability of the banks in thosn days and the annoyances of doing bus ' iness. What would tbo' present generation think about such a way of doing buslnosbj It would open its eyes to have those experi ences. The attitude of the democracy on financial questions alone la enough to uotoat The "No. 0" Wheeler & Wilson Is u rapid stitcher ; so roplu that It will stitch three yards of goods whllo only two yards ara Doing stitched on any vibrating shuttle ma- ohloo. Bold by Geo. W. Lancaster , 514 S , lUh street. Uy the will of the Into Dr. Antolno Rup- tmnor , whloh has boon filed for probate , flO.OUO is loft to tbo Harvard Madicat school and bis nxtonslvo library to tbo University of Homo , Switzerland. If not ucreulod tboro it BOO to ( bo University of St. ( Jail , with a bequest ol UO.OOO francs for a builnins for It. A trust fund of iX.VM Is established , whoso income is to bo devoted to the poor of the dorlor's nntlva town , AUiettou , Canton of St. Ciall , Switzerland. A CANTERBM PILGRIMAGE In England's ' Old Oathodral Town Whorj Qathorod Olmnoar's Joyous Company , IMPRESSIONS OF THE GREAT CATHEDRAL Wlirro Tlioiuim Itrckct wn * Mnrtyroili- Moro ol tlin Mniivtloum Thnn tlio Homo oftlin l.ltlni ; ( ind About It The Scenery Arnunil. tCourrljhtPiI I8M.J CAXTKiinunv , linj. , SopU 1 ! ! . [ CorrosponJ- once of TUB UKK. J Dajplto the huco nropor- ttons , the Diautirul Interior nail the still ox- IttioK ovlJoncoi ot at > | oiilor In troaiuro and ceremonial In the olaon days of the cathe dral m Canterbury Brat ciUbllslioa sent ot episcopal power m England , the present sco of nn nrohbtshop , prlmalo of alt Hnglnnd and metropolitan oolh the cathedral and city seem to Impress the visitor with un Imlollnn- blo souse of sadness and unrest tiotvhoro also experienced In the old cathedral towns ot EiiRlnnd. This Is not easily analyzed and made clear to others. It is true , however , that at Worcester - coster , ot Exeter , at Lincoln , at Wells , at Winchester , nt Gloucester , at Salisbury , at Lltchllold , at Chester , , nt Ely , and oven to seine extent at the huge and shadowy Min ster of York , there Is something so warm and sunny In the immediate surrounding * , so deep an affection of townsfolk for the vener able edifices Is apparent , something so hushed , reposeful nnd soothing is felt In the calm ot closu , cloister and church itself , that ona Imperceptibly yields to the gentle spoil nnd Is touched by the sweet and tcndot In fluence. At Canterbury the entire interpretation ot locality , history , association and structural imptosslvoness is different. The sea and another land and tongue nro too cloao to glvo the cathedral and town that complete and harmonious setting nnd environment peculiar to nearly all other cathedrals of England. Somehow there are too many splatchos of blood upon Cantorbury'8 consecrated crated stones to prevent a chill and a shud der as you oome close to the plHco of historic and dreadful tragedies , and one of the foul est murder * of the Christian era gave this cathedral its vastest treasure and greatest renown. The shrines ot Canterbury uro of kings nnd prelates only. The heart is not uroatly stirred by those. And the mnjostio and priceless dreams in stone in this glittering nnd princely cathe dral , while they compel an Intellectual submissiveness - missiveness akin to nwo , still possess a ropol- Innt grandeur rather than that mellow nnd tender wlnsomouoss which twines every ton- drll of one's heart , close as their mosses and ivies , in aud uround all otnor ol' ' cathedrals and cathedral towns of England. Origin or Canterbury. When Cos tar , with his Uotnan legions , crossed the straits of Dover and pushed on to London to subjugate the entlro island save Scotland , Wales and portions of Cornwall , ho found a British bamlot at a ford of tnc river Stour , fifteen miles from Dover and titty-six from London. The Romans util ized this strategic place as a base of supplies and a military station , and gave it the name of Durovornum. After the Romans rotlrod from Kngland and the Saxon domination began , the present county of Kent became a kingdom. Its chief city and capital , the former Roman Durovornum. was then called Cantwnrubyrig , aud the uarao Canterbury of today is ultnply a slight corriiDtlou of the city's old Saxon title. The manner In which Canterbury became the scat of the primula ot the Anglican church was In this wlso : Pope Oregory the Great , in 590 , conceived the idea of Chris tianizing the Inhabitants of England , inde pendent of the spleuuid missionary labors of the followers of St. Patrick in Ireland and upon the western coasts of Scotland , Wales and Cornwall. Augustine , called the npos- tlo of the English , originally u moak m the convent of St. Andrew at Rome , whore ho was educated under Pope Gregory , was so- Icctod to undertake the conversion of the British. Conditions wore favorable to this mission. Ethclbcrt was then the fourth king of Kent. His wife'Bertha , daughter'of Cherobert , king of France , was a Christian princess , and had'stlpulated for 'the free exercise of her religion in her mnrriaca contract. Her influence upon Ethu'bert was such as to as sure Augustlno and bis followers of a hos pitable reception. Soon after Augustine's arrival King Etholbort not only embraced Christianity , nnd caused , by royal command , the conversion and baptism of his noblus and people , but also granted the city of Canter- Dury and its dependencies to Augustine , who had beenlnvestedwith nrcbioplscopal dignity by Pope Grocery. The pope soon after sent additional missionaries , ana empowered Au- austino to constitute a bishop of York , but this in such a manner that Augiyitine of Can terbury and each of his successors should remain metropolitan of all England. The Wuy to Canterbury. Aucustine died in the year 001 at Can terbury. Ho was buried in the churchyard of the Augustine monastery , the cathedral building then not being com Dieted. After the cathedral was consecrated his body was removed to the north porch , whnro it re mained until 1091 , when it was placed within the cathedral. All this is interest ing , briefly traced , as it gives exact data as to the origin of episcopacy in England ; shows the sourcn and circumstances of tbo creation of ecclesiastic pnmuoy at Canterbury , and is evidence that the original Canterbury cut ho- oral , on important portion of which is intact within the present cathedral wnlls , was In progress of construction at least , 1,2'JO ' years ago. ago.Tho ordinary modern pilgrimage to Can terbury Is muao over the London it bouth- castorn railway , and a pleasant ono it Is. But u far pleasanter ono is to saunter ever the ancient way taken by the pilgrims in those days whan the hrina of St. Thames a Bccket was to the pious of England what Mecca H to the followers ot Mahomet. This leads from out through Soutbwnrk , In Sur rey , ever Into Kent'and , for nbout fifty miles , past the lavender Holds , the strawberry farms and great hop vineyards of tbo most fruitful portion of England. Tnouch Southwark is now merely a portion tion ot London , llko Chelsea on the wast , It has many cuuracteristlo old-tlmo bits worth studying ; and any ono familiar with Chau cer will llnd pleasure in idling about the place wbcro stood tbo old Tabard Inn. The original Tabard Inn was burned In 1070. but another Tabard inn , fashioned after the hos telry of Chaucer's ' tune , and now itself old ana picturesque enough to please any Idler among the mosses ot antiquity , at once took its place , and In DOW a Mecca to many liter ary pilgrims. . Where Clmucnr'n I'llRrlma Ciutliarad. In the first Tabardiun as nt Sudbury Inn In Longfellow's "Tajos ot a Waysldo Inn , " nnd no doubt Longfellow took Chaucer's quaint hostelry and ! , groupings lor his model wore supposed to'UHvo ueon gathered these who rclntod the "Canterbury Tales. " Chau- ear's faucy group6)l ) a ( juatnt company here at the beginning of.Jho springtime pilgrimages * ages , when tj * * from o .ryischlros onclo Of ICir.'olonrt , tu ( JtinUirbnry they nemlc , The holy lillsf ill niartlV for to bookc , Tlmtlhom that holnon whun that they wore heulcu. * * " - ' Wo all romnmhor his knight , prioress , yeo man , friar , monlc , merchant , sorgeuntut faw , clerk , haberdasher , carpenter , weaver , dyer , shipmaster , miller , rcovo , doctor , cook , goo J wife of Bath uud/wbatnot ot all lilt ; and they form a goodjj Uioayh wralthful com pany in which \0finaunlor about ancient Southwark , or mlnulo among nil the village- ful , countryside wn.Vj.pvcr bill and through vullo.v to historic U'Mitorbury ' town. The olden pilgrim's way undoubtedly brings you with the most pleasant impres sions to your first vlow of Canterbury , its cathedral and the rich pastoral country roundn out. At tbo outskirts of Harbio- down , the halting place , perhaps two miles southwest of the cathedral , you are nigh above the city and tbo broaa , blossoming valley of the Stour. The roadway bore runs to tbo northeast for u mlle past the ruins of hi. Nicholas hospital , , where the pilgrims tarried for res > t aud were met by the olden raonks wbollrst lightened their purges turn sprinkled thuui with holy water. Then outlying St. Uunsiau'9 church is reached , No city In England abounds in so largo a number of almost unultnrcd cnurchu * of the greatest antiquity as Canterbury , tit Ouu- Stan's chapel was a vestry room tiliO years ueo. In tbo family vault of the Ripersiu this church mill lies tlio head ot Sir Thomas More. From this vouerubla church , famous for its patron saint , Us great antiquity nuil its chiiiK'3 , the way , now a Canterbury street , Intersect * the ancient city from west to omt , crossing the two armi ot the rlvor Stour , which m ko nn Ulnnd of the western proelnots of the town nnd panics straight on to Dover the vorllnblo street nnd way built by the 10B > lens of Julius Crcsnr. Overlooking Cnntrrlinry Town , Uoforo jou descend the hill nt the cast ol tlarblodown ynu cannot out lone nnd earn estly otudy tbo Intonating soouo below. Tha valley of the Stour roaches far to the north and south , an almost limitless lawn , broken only by blossoming hodtto. the glassy thread * ings ot the river , half hid hamlets and the city's central m * of gr y nnd rod nnd green. Mossy Ht , Dunstnn'A is hero to your loft. At the northeastern edge of the city that hugo mass of walls nnd towers Is what is loft of the once world famous St. Augus tine's monastery. Nearer to wncro you stand is Dane John bill nnd obelisk. Uotwoun this and Sst. Dunstnn's that broKen line of gray marks tbo ancient city walls. Some of this masonry is more than 1,100 years old. Flvo or six of the turrets of these miclont walls still show llko ensile towers among the bright rod olty roofs. Spires and round nnd square lowers here and there push above the f lingo of the hugo old city trees. To the north , along the wind ing Stour , are tbo barracks of the soldiery ; for Canterbury Is still n military station , ns in ancient nnd Roman times. Along the horizon edge toward Ramsgato and Dovur IIURO windmills , llko these ot Holland , flap their wlngllko arms with sudden energy , or high nnd still upon some rounded down stand llko ghostly silhouettes botwcon grocn of earth ind bluoofsky. Hut. all sights audsoomlnqs bring back tbo eye to the ono mass of white , to which the city towers , roofs and follago and nit the valleys , liolds and hamlets nro ns a wide Etruscan base. It soars from but tresses to towers , from towers to splros and from splros to pinnacles , lloecy and glittering In Us wondrous dimensions nnd height. maestlc | , spotless , faultless , and as fancifully light nnd delicate as n vast and shapely crag of coral from which the sea has disappeared nnd loft it among the dallying clouds. From St. Dunatan's church you pass through historic old \Vestgato , which has stood thuro 1,000 years. It is now a Jail. Un derneath it flows the Stour. To the right nnd left strange old structures overhang the stream nnd recall some of the quieter sea lanes of Venice. From Westgnto to the eastern arm of the Stour the thoroughfare is called St. Peter's , Then , In the densest part of the city , the way Is ( riven the Inevitable narao of High street , which you will llnd in nearly every cathedral town of England. Hero are scores of tbo ancient houses llko these of Chester , Gloucester nnd Exotor. Over thorn all seems to brood a mournful air of departed glory. Canterbury Cathedral. As you arrive opposite curious nnd venera ble St. Mary Urcdmnn's ' church n gllmpso Is caught , to the'west ana north , of the quaint est lane In all Canterbury. This is Mercery lane. In the olden days each trade or class of merchants was given a separate thorough- faro. The mercers or haberdashers occupied Mercery lano. Itisnowflllca with all manner of little shops , where- merchants Instead of raonks set upon the modern pilgrim. Over head the houses protrude , story after story , unlit the gables are within whispering prox imity. It is a pleasant place in which to loiter , this Mercery lane , and when you bavo come to its northern end you suddenly face the great cathedral , and are slven an oblique view of its louthorn walls , transepts and the southernmost anglo of its far eastern apse , while the top ot the great central tower looms vas't and whlto and high above and ooyona the companion towers at either slaa of the vast wes t window. While no ono can deny the grandeur of the proportions and richness in detail of this splendid cathedral of Canterbury , the feeling is irresistible that there is too little "room without and too much within. I moan bv this that tbo effect of so vast a structure balngclosely crowded by masses of Inferior buildings , precisely as with the cathedral at Cologne , Is dwarfing and Insignificant. The Interior laofeg warmth , and there is no doubt that unnecessary vastness in a sacred Galileo lessens the desirable effect of repose. For the student in ecclesiastical history nnd architecture there is nowhere else in Eng land a so grand ana comprehensive study. The cathedral certainly embraces every var iety of the styles of English ecclesiastic architecture from tbo rudest Saxon to the most finished Gothic art. It contains a greater number , more famous and richer tombs , shrines and eftlgies than any other cathedral church of Britain. Slnco its creation , out of Canter bury's ninety archbishops eighteen have beep canonized , nine aignltaries have been appointed cardinals and twelve have been mdcio lord chancellors. In Us history , con struction nnd all details of cathedral enrich ment it lacks no element of grandeur and deep imprcssivonos * . linprcisloim. But to mo there is an emptiness , a glar ing whiteness , a loneliness , a aosolatlon , in deed a dcsortation , if that word may bo used , about this vast edifice which reminds ono of a tremendous mausoleum rather than a beau tiful , venerable and tenderly kept house of God. In no part or portion of the entire cathedral is this saddening Impression modi fied. Even most of the inscriptions on tombs and brasses nro of the "Stay , traveler , nnd reverence I" varletv. You are ronstantly confronted with primacy , oven in tbo eter nal set speeches of tbo dead. The cloisters , though very great in extent , are neither so beautiful nor reposeful as those at Gloucester. The chapter house is lofty , lonely nnd droar. The great un- dorcrof , or crypt , where tno Huguenot weavers worshiped , sugeests the charnel house. The choir screen Is of stone and the archbishop's throne is of stono. Instead of the beautiful carved oak which so distin guishes inanv English cathedrals , and tboro is no great glowing cast window above the high nltar.with its Hood ot warmth and light , as noble emblem of tbo source of light and life eternal. All this may bo deemed captious by some , but to the lay pilgrim , untramolod by re ligious politics or political religion , it Is the Indeflaablo expression of all thes > 3 various objects and emblems which wins or repels , while the pompous heralding by the vergers of every aroadful detail of the murder , canonization and pilgrimages to the shrlno of St. Thomas a Ueckot , as though the place were London Tower or u waxwork "Chamber of Horrors , " Intensifies the show place character of Canterbury , until ono turns trotn tbo glittering shell of u once noble sanctuary with a sad and heavy heart. EIHUU L. WAKKMAX. Baby'a cheek Is lllce a poaon , Is it Madame Rupport's bleach ? No ! but baby'B mama's ohook Volumes to Its praise doth bpoak ! Cnll ( or 51 mo. llupport'a book , "How to bo Uoautl- ful'1 percent prollt Salesmen wunted-llnrclwnro upoclaliy for bii lnc my. ul o unfunded lot ters.utc.AilJluUblu .S'umii l'l4le'i ( > . , M H'way , N.V.O DOCTOR : Me SKEW. 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