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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 10, 1892)
THE OMAHA DAILY UEE : SUNDAY , JULY 10 , 1892--S1XTEEN PAGES. ii NEBRASKA CIRL IN GREECE uTrorn Athens , to Sputx with Glimpses of the Arcadian Way. \ PILGRIMS OF THE PELOPONNESUS 3'rn-Plcttmn oT Intcrrstlui ; Interior * unit Colimnl Kxtorlor * In tlio Morrun rrnhikiilu \ \ Hli tins Hpiirtun I'our Hundred Womlng of thu Ilnnry , ATiin.vs , Juno 8 , [ Correspondence of 'tin : llr.r. . ] Wo were n narty of four , just a cntu- fortoblo carriage load. Our hosts , an eminent Now York luwyernnd his gifted wlfo : guests , the consul and the consul's daughter. Our Irlondi iiro enthusiastic Grecians , who hnvo looked forward to thin trip , they toll us , ns the crowning event of their lives , and they Will not bo disappointed. The consul U saturated with Greek renlly much moro Giockthun the inujurity of the Greeks nnd wo ncod no ether encyclopedia , ns ho lias caravnnod over every Inch of the ground be fore. Tbo consul's ' daughter is chlolly useful ns Interpreter , n very mechanical function perhaps you think , out by no moans so oiisv when It comes to dealing with Grcok cupid ity. She Is quite ready to absorb nil the knowledge and experience that corns In her way iind to sit at tlio foot of these learned prnplo "tiikinp notes. " \Vo discussed our plans overnight In the consul's parlor and ended with having no nlans at nil. All wo know was that wo should yo somuwUoro nt 7 o'clock the next niornlntt. The rest was delightful uncer tainty. It was tirlzzlln ? nnd gloomy the next day , but nothing dnuntod wo drove to the station and took the train for Corinth. Vlo had our cosy llttlo apartment all to our- lelvcs. Greek cars and engines nro more ubsurd toys compar d with our great mon sters , out they are big enough for the litllo kingdom. This whole way Is replete with historical interest. Five minutes stop In the prottr statlou of Klcusls , froi ( ) which wo could'gat n pllmpso of the Elcuslntnn Acropolis , out the great Totnplo of the Mysteries , with Us double uropytoja , la hidden from view aroand under the hill. Wo do not mind , though , ns wo recall nuny beautiful drives over the Sacred Way nnd have studied out the different temples and lunched In Pluto's shrmo. Uut the consul reads to ui the uver- pretty story of Demeter from an excellent I'Voneh author. Wo next pass Megara and notlco that they eom already to bo preparing for the fam ous Easter dances to be hold n week hencn. As wo look uucit upon the historic city It miikcs n quaint picture , its low adobe houses built In terrncos on the hillside with the round steoploof n pretty iSyiantluo church crow.ilng the summit. From lioro vo follow the sea all Iho wav to Corinth through scenery so varied nnd on- chunling that wo uio nuito curried away with delight nnd only regret Iho impossibility of looking out'both windows at onco. On ono vide iho snining jKqcnu , with its circle of Islands stretching away iiulBllnltuly Snlnmls mid iho scone of thu battle , vEginannd many others while on our right rise high walls of roclt , sheer preclpici's which acorn to reach the clouds , lor wo cinnot see the top. The isthmus wo cross In all to short a lime , but wo caught n glimpio of the field of the isthmian gamed , and looked down into thn canal which Nero began and loft for our gen eration to finish. 1' . Is cut clear throucn almost down to the level of the two gulfs , which seem so cloto together that the only wonder U it hndn't been completed centuries Bgo , the task sooining so o.\sy. Andronmrlio srlillnniiiiiii'f * Home. Modern Corinth , alas , retains but scant traces of her anclunt dory , and It took n lot of Imagination to put ourselves in Paul's place. But I liavo since road Byron's "Siei'o of Corinth" nnd It nil seemed very real Ages cannot change the grand old Aciocprintbus , which ris > o-t" before us Innllits mnesly. ] Think of iho scenes It has wit nessed , of the passing of generations upon generations of struggling , ambitious souls , and it still stands serenely indifferent and unchangeable. It is nil wu need to bring back the nast times. But the state of the weather admoi.lshes us to keep right on to ArgossO wo spend the few precious moments Eludving the railway lunch counter of the Corinthians : and sigh In vain for the gener ous cups of hot coffee and ham sandwiches of our native Ini.d , while wo still our crav ings with the resinous wmo of tbo country , black broad and Greek ehceso. Every body who has ever traveled in Greece assures us that wo shall learn to cry for this wmo as tlio occidental baby tor Castona , nut wo nre ns yet extremely - tremoly skeptical. TIiiio only will show. As wo swing southward another hour brings us to Ncmea , with its memories of that muscular "old here , " Hercules , and his combat with the Numcan lion. Of course , now that we huvo seen the uutunt spot. It Is ( julto Impassible not to bo perfectly convinced of the historical truth or the story. It was with keenest mtoicst that wo discerned the famous citadel of Mycomu , with it * Lion's Gale just distinguishable indeed , for the railway loaves il a mile or nero to the oast. Dill wo knew and admired Intensely tbo great explorer , wfio has brought to light aUch mines of precious history , and whoso Mjcemo collection is perhaps the most In- torosllng thing in Athens unless wo nccept Ills daughter , Andromache , whom 1 often yisit at the classic and stately hall of llion , nnd whose engagement , by the way , wo were HurprUe.il to see announced In Tin : liii : : even whllo It was the fix-ill sensation of Athens. With what queenly irraco she receives the ( latteries nnd attentions of a bust of admirers , seated In the midst of a bovv of hot- favorites , lovely Bpirlluello Greek girls , all with comfortable dots but none to be compared with Androm- ncho. So the young Greens know very well for they are all fortune hunters. But now it is all settled and the hap'py man Is Lionel Mclas , the mayor's son , who possesses a handsome face uud fortune and thu tradi tional bright Greek mind. But how 1 am wandcrinir , to bo surnI Where was 1 ? Oh , ye < , nt Mycomu. Wo now ulght fair Nauolln , extremely plctur csque lu the distance , as wo whirl througn the plain and across the Trncbus to Argos. llorua had fuln rested , but thn rum still drippedand leaving the land of Diomodes and Agammiuun to be studied at u moro con venient Hoason wo kept on to Arcadia. Wo rcallzo the Insignificance of Grocce In point of size when wo arrive in Trlpolis atI o'clock , thu distance loaned no long ou tbo jinp , and talics in so much. A ( 'iileltrutloii In Tripoli * , Wo were glad to pack ournolvoi and our biik-s In a littla old uartaud be whirled nwav through Iho narrow old streets to ttie Crown Hotel , cro > lnK on thu wav tbo principal square or ugoru , surrounded on four sldos by quHl'ut nrcncd bnzars tilled with all sorts of queer Greek knick-knacks. At the door of the Inn our host receives us witn thu bland est nf smiles una the lowest of bows. He is n hnndsomo tuhval , with &nowy locks and Btinwy Hturchcd kilt shlrls , scarlet loggins , fez and shoes , nnd bu U altogether a re freshment to the eyes. How can wo think of whiter sepulchers yet but wait I Wo wore shown upstairs lo a nlua llltlo room containing four beds , gay wilhscnrlnlcovurs. Our holt's color seunn to bo rod. We gently explain that we protor two apartments. He is at a loss to understand this bit of sqiioam- jMmiKs tut not at all Inth to provide the ex tra room containing throa beds. A long nnd complicated Graok menu is produced and we uro rather nonplusicd to IInil scarcely n Mti- ' Blo rccognlznOle dish- not HO strange'a thing uftcr nil considering the Fronclilnoss of our Athnnlan cuisine , liut wo glvu our order nnd think it nil I lie merrier to hnvo even our dinner a mjbtery. Wo uro Hungry , as boars oud everything U perfection from the frioau- Bocd lamb and olives to thu mogullo , or pud ding of ilco cooked with tnllk. It is surpris ing how fnst wo are ucoustomlui ; ourselves to that ii road ful hitter wlnt * . Dinner done , we go shopping lu Aruadio , draining our Rood man nf law wlih us , sooklug vainly to Oogullo him Into purciinsing a shuggy shep- Bord'a coat , white and ptcturofijuv , for tiso us n luproba In N\w York if uoth tue olso. But wo hud to bo con tent with some tunullor souvenirs fan- tastlo handkerchiefs which the noua- ant women were ou their heads llko the no- pro bniidnnuo. aotno hand-knit lamb1 wool ockx , not too dainty , but sugvestlvo of Greek Industry , rod shoes , which remind ono \ \ of tbo Italian gondolas , oti' . Wo found the streets ami thu people In holiday array , and wondered If'twrs ' nil for the dlstlngulihi'd truut'cru until \vo were humbloa by the roc- olloction that this was the Greek "Fourth , " and they are celobratlae their escape from the heavy yoke of the "unspeakable Turk , " FlazR wnro Hying from \ho housetops and gioat bonfires of pilch , foa by the tireless small boys tins placed along at regular Inter vals , llehtod our footsteps , Thorn Is no lack of Hrccrackers and rocKets , but they are not so noisily patrlotto as wo are at homo. Wo pot unck to the hotel Just , In tlio nick of time , for our balcony looks over on that of the dotnarch , or mayor , and wo hear htm deliver his Fourth "of .Tulv ( or rather 7th of April ) speech to a mob of noisy boys , who listen , however , very attentively. It i -all Greek" to most of tis ; but the Greeks nro great orators nnd it Is wonderful to see the small Domosthones In pinafores speak their pieces at school with a confidence and with the gestures that would put Uolsnrto's dovolc6s to the olush and bo the dcspnlr of our stump speakers , At the con clusion of the hnraniruo the national hymn Is chanted and with much rah-rahlng and zotos for King George , Tricoupis and Greece thov piss on wavlne their lighted tore-has. Wo think It great luck to witness hero In the heart of Arcadia the linish of the uow na tion's olrthday. Itmigliliii ; It In ArrmUn. Wo only used four beds , to bo sure , but the mvstory of the other three was solved In thu morning whoa our honest host brought In his account for seven bails , at throe drachmas oach' ' The rest of that bill was n worn of Hot Ion , nnd iho total just a Httla moro than twice his duo. Our purse- bearer edited It with great cnro , and ten dered the now total with the alternative of taking that or awaiting our ploastiro. As ho would not como to tornn , wo loft him to his meditations and took our carriage for Sparta. You will bo surprised at his trusting us , but just In so far ns wo distrust those rogues they bate perfect faith in us , nnd seem to think It utterly Impojslblo fnr us to dovlnto from the path of righteousness. Wo drive for several miles through the smooth and fertile Togoau ulnln. The moun tains surround us on all sides. As wo begin to ascend wo ttiko udvaatneoot Iho slow- paced horses to walk n llttlo , and tbo plain Is a glorious nloturo as wo look down upon It , the ureat Inko which receives all the waters of Arcadia was nestled 9o proitily amonc the hills. Arcadia , the dreamland of poets and artlsls , more than fulfills all our expecta tions. The shaggy-coated shepherd , all In white with his crook nnd his dog , drives his Hock by us , or ns wo look down from our hleh mountain road wo can sco the white dots in the green valley below. Nothing could bo moro boautlful , moro varied than is our Arcadian drive , the rocky gorges , the rushing mountain torrents nnd the grand rugged chains of mountains themselves. But I quite despair of convoying any idea of the grandeur to tboso who hnvo not seen It. I cannot paint landscapes with either pen or brush , so leave it to others who have that on viable eilt. At noon wo hultod for rest and refreshment at ono of the khans , or llt tlo mountain Inns , which are the only stoo ping places ono finds In rural Grcocn. They nro decidedly moro picturesque than clean ; but are wo not In Arcadia , and so aulto con- lent to tnko the slmplo far of the peasants. Wo nro quitesuro wo novorsnvv anything like this Khan ooforo. The tallest of us stooped down to enter the little , low. mud building where wo Iind ono rough table and four wooden benches near the ono litllo loophole in Iho wall lo light the wholo. The black broad , cheese and wine accorded with the surroundings and what greater dolicacv could wo ask for than the Lnconlan honey , sweet nnd golden , which made our dessert. Wo note the llttlo bar , in front of which rough kegs of resinaio nro displayed and the low roof of rafters blackened with tar and soot ; the colU stone floor , and the utter cheerlessness of the whole place. An Amor- lean stable of the meanest sort would bo a palace in comparison. On a sort of raised platform at ouo end of the khun , reached bv two or three rickety stops , wo find u motley array of fellow travelers , mostlv In the shepherd's costume , seated cross losgod around u ioughly made tire of olive wood. Over It a Kettle Is merrily boil ing , tilled with u nameless Gtook vogotaolo , which thov soak in rancid oil and make tnclr meals of , nil dipping from the same carlhorn font and soaping Iheir blnclc bread In it , lu ns primilivo a fashion us heart could doslro. It didn't look appoti/.ing , this weed , or very nourishing , but the poor people hero scarcely over tnsto moat. When they had lltnshcd they politely vacated in our favor nnd wo drc'w up our wooden oonchos and thought this "roughing H" in earnest. Near us were four dirty homespun blankets , in woich the household roll themselves nt night and sleep around the lire , for there nro"no bods. There is the bread trough , a rough stone basin , nnd homemade - made iron forks hung up in n gourd In the corner , ovldonily the lotnl of nncostrnl plate. Outside nnd qullo by itself is the baking oven , u great beehive-shaped nfTair and look ing big enough to turn out bread for an army. Nearby a wrinkled old woman was washing , n procedure which wo watched with deepest Interest. When these southern women do grow old they are such hags that Is , the poor nard-worlied ones. She had never heard of tubs or wringoror washboard , Out has u kettle boiling over n iiro , on tbo usual three sticks. She dips from this from time to limo nnd pours Ihe wnler upon the course homespun shirts which wore spread out on n large lint stono. She did use soap plentifully and with a conveniently shaped wooden stick pounded the dirt out nnd the soap In , and It is u satisfaction to sco that the clothes como out very clean , ihough I can't sco how there would bo u shroad loft after such rough usauo , Sparta of Tixluy. Wo are four hours from Sparta nnd wo think nature very partial to this lovely land. Wo arj entranced with her lovely farms ns wo netir the boundary of Arcadia aand La- conla , and when wo sight the glorious plain of Spirtu below us , stretching down to tbo sea , with ttio Eurotas river winding In and out among the tnlck or.xngo groves our oup is filled , and all words fall * us Wo could see llltlo Sparta , looking as severely slmplo with its square whuo houses as it must have looked in iho days of its glory. As wo move southward the flowers are moio abundant and varied. Lovely bunches of pink asters on the mountainsides , vivid patches of yellow gorse , while among the many llclds of wheat the tall poppies lift their proud heads , their brilliant scarlet contrnsllng with Iho groon. Wo drove through several picturesque villages , nnd were charmed , with the circular stone threshing floors which nro often built out over the cdgo of a ravine , and are now prot- tilv overgrown with poppies nnd wheat , which nush their way up through Iho cranlts In the stonos. On fete days the man nnd maidens turn this Into a dancing floor , though iho clanco does not much rcsoinblo ours. The lovely white llour-do-lis crows In great clusters along the roadside. On the outskirts ot Sparta wo began to see evidences of Dr. WalcSstoln's into excava tions there , tbo earth looking as If freshly plowed up under the line old olive trees , with a bit of wall or tbo shaft of u column pushing up into vlovv. The strceU of the city are ns broad and grnssgrown as Ihoso of our western towns , Aflor caiafully comparing the merits of the two hotels ( and , truth to tell , they nro about equally dirty ) , wo decided for the hotel of the Crown , as tno landlord was fat and good n at u reel with un altogether well fed appear ance that t.piko well for the establishment. The jurist was hungry and had sot his heart all the wnv down an some spitted lamb , so I penetrated Into the oook's domain and found our landlord ( who happened to bo man ot all wnru ) stirring the Identical black broth that the tough old Suartans used to oat In their barracks ut tto common table. But wo Athenians prefoned our lamb , which proved tlptoti , and some nice salad with ollvo oil. Wo retired early , some of us , to iind the Luconlan llea altogether too soctaolo. The sufferings of that llttlo Spartan with the fox were not a circumstance to outi , and , by the way , wo xnw so inn line foxsklns hanging In iho ihop windows In the ugora , so the bunting must still bo good In Tay- golus. The night's torture ended , the kitchen must bn Invaded once moro , The landlord was gone and in his place was a imall boy very much In need of a bath and verv aleopv , Hut ho proves hotter thau ho looks , for he but mildly rosunU tbo sugcus- lion that the coffee pot should bo washed an entirely useless proceeding , as it nevnr held anything but cofl'oo. Ho had to hhulilo bjck and forth botwaon tbo inn nud parts unknown for'bvcry article roqulrcd , whether bread , water or salt , HI II seems to bo the rule not to keep a scrap of nnytnlag iu iho house from ono meal to another , I rashly inquire for butter and ho orlngs a tin of It , very yellow mid tempting , though perhaps a llttlo too fragrant. I think , though , It will bo a great surprise lo the others and so it u. Ono sniff is enough for the jurist , whoio tastes uro rather Ionic. However , the consul Insljloa that we hold onto It and declared that It became fresher and sweeter every day ; but It bad Uj ing qualities and was still with us when wo trot back to Athens , blx day * later. Not 10 with the luscious Lnconlnn honey , which moro thnn deserves its reputation ; in n pot of It wo found consolation for n multitude nf Sparlan shortcomings , or short common * , I f vou prefer. Then there was the Scotch ten In our own basket drawn nt last , tnough wo bad only ono pitcher at our disposal nud that full of hot goat's milk A Spurtimrlcomr. . Thus refreshed , wo are off for our morning drlvo through the ollvo grove that wns once i the agora to Iho Acropolis , nil lying outside I the present town. Llttlo is loft of the an cient city , but the theater Is still well- defined and the supporting walls In good preservation. Orchestra nnd amphitheatre are now planted with olives and overgrown with waving wheat nnd bright 1 rod popplos nnd precious bits of marble nro | scattered abjut. 1 don't think It could over ! have been so pretty as now. The untiring atchiuologist had been nt work horc > too nnd succeeded In tnr.ulng u mudholo wtaoro iho sttico should bo , a great pity wo thought , ns wo floundered In up to our ankles , From the Acropolis wo got our llrst satisfactory view of Tavgoius ono of the loveliest wo had over beheld its snowy peaks nil the moro beautiful for being somewhat misty nnd obscure , and seeming to lese themselves In the sky above. For 1 must toll you that the gods have soctnod to frown upon us from the start and Hellos has obstinately refused to show himself , but bo did condescend to boa in n llltlo for our bonotlt as wo were wading In search of Loonldns1 tomb , as they tlunk con venient to call iho great quadrangular foundation between the theater nnd the town , which may qulto ns well belong to Lyeurgus or any other old Spartmi. Whllo lunching at the "public mess , " so to speak , nnd In the public gn/.e , for the Inn tables were crowded with sturdy Spartans , wo received u courteous note from the domaruh ( mayor ) welcoming us to hls > domas nnd offering us an accomplished escort In the person of u gymnasium professor , Mr. Nos- inrido-s the first authority on Spartan topo- praphy and author of n work now on the press on that subject. As Iho consul had left hb pnu.nntas behind , and the professor was loaded with archaeological lore the arrnngotnunt was natur.illv acceptable. Ho declared himself rendy to turn Sparta Insldo out for us and was so hospitable and beam- Inc that wo were very glud to accept his offer of a room nt his house for the ladies during the rest of our stny in Sparta. Wo finally found an old edition of Pansntims at ono ot the two book shops , where wo were amused to see also Cooper's "Last of the Mohicans" in Greek , gayly bound , displaying on the cover n redskin of the fiercest ordsr and cal culated to make the eyes of the Spartan youngsters pop out of their hoads. Tnoro was also n Greek "Robinson Crusoo" and smelts of Greek primers , short nnd easy , nnd profusely illustrated , exasperating by con trast with the torture mills wo are ground through in the name of Greek at homo. The jurist's wlfo bought ouo and began forth with to speak Greek a point which our col- ' loglans at homo never ro'ach. The doirarch received us with open arms , as he had not forgotten the consul and the great caravan which cnmiicd two days on iho Sparlnn Acropolis last year. In fact a foreign consul , if known to bo such , can hardly travel iu the provinces without being n part of public gush and overwhelmed with Hellenic hospitality , and it Is notably so nt Sparta. The present domnrch is Iho chief physician of the province and a most genial , simple minded gentleman. From his broad balcony wo looked down Into n lovely orange garden and thougnt it strnngo to see the luscious yellow fruit nnd the fragrant , pure b'.osboms growing side by side on the same trco. Wo were constrained to partake of an elaborate variety of Greek cakes , very rich nnd heavy , with honey nnd butter , but so appetizing that our jurist forgot his dvspep- sin and satisfied his soul with good things iu spite of ( Vifcly protests , which were all of no avail. But wo' heard from him Inter. Then small glasbos of of cognac were served and oxrjulsilo orangeade all by Iho same stun ning retainer in snown fustanclln and linen greaves and scarlet fez and slippers. The domarch's housekeeper , n very bricbt nnd keen looking lady in black , Introduced her self ns a matchmaker ( onliiely legitimate business in Greece ) nud offered to negotiate a Spailnn alliance on Iho spot. As there wns but ono eligible In our party the situation was not frco from embarrassment. However , the Intended victim escaped with nothing moro serious than a burn on of orange blossoms at the good woman's hands. Hoinu ol ii Sp.irtiin Vlllngn F.oril. This was our entree into Spartan society nnd the test ol our stay was n continual whirl of dissipation such as wn had never dreamed of nt home. Antiquities nnd ordinary sigbt- soolng were secondary matters and threatened to besadly neclcctod. Wolooked through the llttlo museum , with Its portico supported by Ionic columns and containing some Inteton- ing inscriptions and works nf ancient art , nnd then sot out for n drlvo to the ruins of AtnycliD , the prehistoric sacred city of La- coni'a. But the rain came down In torrents nnd wo wore obliged to tnko rofnco In a picturesque turosquo wnysldo inn , where wo found oth ers had preceded us , pensnnts , mostly In shaggy sheepskin coats , who were sociably chatting and Imbibing rcslnnts with no cnra for the tempest without. Wo soon had enough of this nnd our coed professor pro posed that \vo push on to n nearby villaco nnd visit tils friend , the village lord. Our road wns of 'tho narrowest and crookodost , and the flood from heaven did not improve it. but with n good bit of wading wo got through nt last to Slnvoehorlon ( the name Is a reminiscence of the Slavic occupation a thousand years ago or moro ) and found ourselves at iho threshold of iho great ruac stone houso. It stands Iu a mag nificent crovo of orange trees , the boughs bending under their load , and the ground strewn with the fullon overripe fruit. Our host , a grand old follow with a carriage and stride that Booth would envy , greeted us with "kalos orisato , " welcome , and helped us to scud under our umbrellas Into the great house , where we were In turn greeted by his two comely daughters. tJnfor- tunatoly , as wo thought , they had discarded the pretty Greek costume , as their attempt nt Parisian modes was not very successful. Tooy took our intrusion very calmly nnd busied themselves Helping their mother ( n rather pretty. blue-oyed lady ) lo prepare Turkish coffee on the cheerful glowing hearth in iho room ad joining. Tno room ot stale , in which wo were received , was largo nnil _ nirv with n wooden sottco against the wall , the family photos displayed to advantage around a mirror ; In front of this a marble topped tablo. But iho rno t Interesting thing to us was a pllo of gorgeous quilts , rugs , blankals and bedding of all sorts on one side of the room nnd reaching well-nigh to the colllnir. There were soft woolen ulur.kots , striped white and rod , and splendidly woven ruirs In fantastic patterns , making mo thlnl : of the relic-hunters whom I have soon searching Athens to satisfy their or.uo for curiosities nnd how wild they would bo over this rich display. This , they explained , was the girls' dowry ; every stitch of it woven by their own fair hands. As soon as these girls can use a needle they begin to prepare against the day of their inarrlugo and spend years em broidering their wedding gown , even plaiting the white petticoats or Kilts for tbo coming man , I saw ono of those maidens at work ou thU fustanolln. It is no child's , play. Countless strips must bo sowed togoibor , and it requires twenty yards of cloth , as It must stand out Ilk < > a ballot ulrl'o skirts. As for the young man , Itsooms tu betaken taken for granted that ho will bo forthcom ing when the dowry is provided , and the poor girl cnutiot even enjoy weaving her dreams Into bar work , as papa nnd manitim cheese the husband , who may bo to her qulto a dark hon > o till the last ballot is taken. Wo were lold the history of all the sinters and cousins nnd aunts nnd mot our host's son-in-law , the vUlago schoolmaster. Ho finished the gym nasium In Sparta , but does not know ancient Grook. Our host is not of old Spartan stock , but ArL'lvo by descent , and narcod no- cordlnglv Arcltes. I wntchod them make tbo coffee , so unllko ours , very thick and served in tiny cups. Along ono sldo of the kitchen wall was n wooden shelf hoap'od with lanvaj of black bread , ono of which wo carried away with us. The shelf had ono living Inhabitant a poor little huro which had been caught In one of ( heir mountain hunts. I polled It a llttlo , only to repent later , when they Insisted upon malting mo a present of It. J'tMirlopu In ' .Nliint By the kitchen hearth was on American sowing machine , nnd from this after coffee and healths In flowing reslnnte wo passed to a weavln groom such as Penel ope might have wrought. In against the day of her wadding with Odynseus , 1 1 nro ono of the girls tried lo teach mo to run the bobbin back and forth , a thread ut u tltno. and keep tbo treadle going with my foot. It proved lo IH ) by no means so slmplo an It looked and I made awkward work of It. They showed us a skein of the pure raw yellow illk , like spun gold , and also a bolt uf the most fascinat ing lln cloth , to delicate and line la texture that one could see throuefi It , but so firm ns to endure for yonrs nnrUwith the natural yel low color ot the silk , ituch as wo coveted the lovely fabrics wo dldiiot dare suggest a pure-hasp , for Kyr ArcHc * was lord of many acres and the village licfm * all his neighbors looked uo to him ; his daughters could weave but to soli Impossible Ii was llko a dream to so ? the now Ponclonp weaving her robe , nnd wo had fain HncerOu In this charmingly unique household , but at length the deluge moderated a llttlo nnd for till their kind en- troatftis to spend the nljMit that they might show us how they amused themselves nnd dnnco for us , wo took our lingering Icavo. Hwnsnrlctt experlcnr < > } i this peep into the homo life ot these slmrtib sturdy Lnconlnns nnd ono which tbo tourist very seldom en joys , tier Uoturnod to Spartnvo found that our visits were not yet ended. Our professor ' thought It no moro 'than his right that wo should stop nt tils''domicile , nnd moot his good wife , who wns nn Athenian and lived accordingly. Ho proudly showed us his library containing a very good selection of Greek , Latin nnd Gorman worn ? , nnd en larged upon his forthcoming "Topoeraphy of Sparta , " of which wo saw the first sheets. Wo heroically partook of Turkish coffee for the fourth time that 'day , and this was fol lowed by another trny load of sweets and water. There was n spoon holder with spoons for o.ich and two jars , ono a delicious rich cherry preserve , the ether containing n white pnsto llko our eroum candy , nnd flavored with mastic. Now the slyio iu Sparta Is to Inko n spoonful onlv of each nnd n drink of the water , nnd then leave the spoon in the water glass. But it was so good that sorao of us deliberately forgot our ottquotto and wont In for more. At length wo got nway to our Inn for a week of roil on our promise to como back In the evening und meet some ot the elite of Sparta. The prospect wns nlnrmtng , ns wo had not thought of the necessity of swuliow-tnils or decolloto gowns , but MM. M. tied n rainbow- colored Arcndlnn scurf nrotind her black bodice , which gnvo her quite n festive nlr and I felt quite elegant when I had had my boots sctapcd of their lavors of mud nnd shined und had brushed two or three inches of mud from my skirt. The consul begged tinrd to bo lot olT , declaring that this social strain would bo the death of him , but his oftlcinl importance nnd his ovorworkd classical Greek could not bo spared on such a stnto occasion , in the course of the even ing wo unwillingly spoke of our fondness for muslo nnd were interested to learn that there is no such thing as a piano tu Sptrta. But muslo there was and It was sent for forthwith ono of these Instruments called a molodion , though why so called I cannot make out I Again there Is call for all our Spartan heroism to endure interminable repetitious of the same monotonous Grooit love ditty. A Spartan Youth. Quito the lion of the evening was a young Adonis in white kilts , rod leggings and and pointed red shoos. Ho were an embroidered sleeveless jacket , loose , and showing under neath folds of n white linen olouso , nnd the waist conllncd by n broad sash , while on his curly blonde pnto was poised with most ar tistic ncgllgonca a red fez , drooptnir to ono sldo undar Iho weight ot n dashing sill : tnsslo. Ono wondered if ho know how well it sot off his classical face. As ho posed wltn ono tlehtly galierod log crossed over the ether , ho was a picture of unoonscloua grace and self possession , while his bows would put u New York swell to the blush. Ho proved to bo the brother of our llttlo Penolooo , and was longing to go to'Hhat wonderland of wealth and happiness , Vmorlca ; but ho was his mother's darling nnd she could not pnrt with him , he said , and hoi loved his tather- land too well to stav moro than a year or two if ho wont. Ho has Spartan friends in Now York who send Ijim rose-colored pic tures of their llfo there. Some old laay sug gests that it is time for htm to bo choosing a wife instead of dreaming of America , but ho must first marry off his sisters and do his part in preparing thorn n sullieient do'wry before ho cun think of " "himself. That is tlfo rule all over Greece anil n very good ono , too. Ho will please himself < arid have the girl ho fancies. AS for his sibters , Ihoir purenls will find their ideal young man. After they have como to terms and settled iho business de tails , the elect youth calls at iho house with friends nnd mspcctV , Iho unsuspecting maiden. If she please him the wedding fol lows In short ordor."rnp.y nssurp us that these muchtJJdpltlod , Qvoaturo' riiro always very happy afterward , , for the waronts select discreetly and woll. But Just iinaglno our girls subimttingtosuchInfringement of their nghls. Ono chamber at thoprofessor's was most un-Spartan in Its luxurious furnishings. Gay Greek rugs for our foot , and beds so immacu late with brocaded crimson silk cDVorlots and white silk sheets , thai wo were qulto embar rassed and were long making up our minds to venture to rulllo thorn. But sleepiness overcame our scruples nnd wo crept care fully and softly In , hoping it was nil right and no sacriloiro. Our dreams of tbo g'ories ' of ancient Spartu were undisturbed by any animals whatsoever. Thov seemed to bo as shy of this luxury as were wo. And so wo slept the slc.ep of the blessed , in preparation for tomorrow's program , which was to bo nothing less than ( the gods being propitious ) the crossing of Taygotus. Of that undortau- ing nnd the rest of this Poloponnesiau raid another letter must tell the slory. WiviniEi ) MA\VTT. LnAvnxwoiiTli , K , June 15 , ' 90. Mr. J. U. Moore : Mv Uoar Sir I hnvo been sutjcct to sick headache all my lifo. Over two years ago I began si ng "Mooro's Trco of Lifo" fo t and never had a case of sick heauacho since , except when thu medicine was nt ono end of the road nnd I nt the other. It la worth moro than money to mo. I heartily recommend It to all sufferers of headache. Very truly vours , W. B. LII.K. Pastor First Baptist Churoh. For sale by nil druggists. At some recent weddings tbo bridesmaids' bouquets have boon norsesbons with the nails worked out in contrasting blossoms. Arthur Do you llko to hoar the p opplng of those toy pistols , Miss Mndgoi Mndgo Yes ; nnything that pops just tickles mo to dcntb. Sue How did you and Tom Hlllow happen to got married , Blanctio ? Blanche Wo were both single , you knowl "Yosl" "Woll , wo married to got ovon. " J. Malcolm Forbes , the Bostonlan , was married Wednesday to Miss Koso IJubtioy in Son Diego , Cal. The honeymoon U to bo divided between the two coasts. "As Chnpplo married In hadio I suppose ho Is now repenting nt loUuro , " romnrkod Snipes. "Yes , " suld Bnlloy , "nnd nn olegnnt leisure it is , too. The girl was worth three millions. " An interesting Boston wedding of Wednes day was that of Miss Alice Vivian Amos , daughter of Ilev. C'hnrles G. Amos , who performed the coriiraony , to Mr. T. Gerald Winter. An.ong the recant unio.no methods of con tracting matrimony wsstthnt of William S. Hughes and Miss Nellta.HrankUn of Sedalia , Mo. They were marrjed-.on a street corner seated In n buggy. Havj , , vomuntie 1 Hojack ( looking up from his newspaper ) Hero's another Illustration of the tendency of wealth to comWao. Tomdlk Wolll Hojack The proprlotqr.of n summer hotel has married the daughter of an Ice dealer. Well , girls , the flrjj ; half of leap year Is closed , Homembor thaintimo files , and that the young man in now uaslor to capture than when the koim MUtumtl'ttlid winter winds are whistling through his Summer suit. Jennie So Charlie married a Chloaeo girl , \\asitnohurch woddjngj DuUy Yes , in- dood. Jcnnlo How w n-pho dressed ? Daisy Ob , she were the lovolioit long rain coat , with rubber boots ond-umbrella to match. The engagement huOieon announced In Now ork of Miss Eleanor Duor. second dauirhtor of .1. G. } t ) < i Duor , to Joseph Lnroquo , Jr. , son of till'1 etmi'cnt lawyer of that numo. Their wedding will tnko"plnco lu the Jail. A white clorgyni an of Newton , L , I. , re cently married ono Moy Ty wood , n common Chinese laundry man , to Mian Jotiulo PickerIng - Ing Clutko of Philadelphia. U Is the old story of u white womun leaching a China- man in Sunday school , A provincial newspaper ) n Australia not long since contained this advertisement : "A widow , who still possesses the onilro wardrobe of her deceased husband , U dis posed to on tor Into correspondence with a suitable gentleman , if such can bo found , with n view to matrimony. " Ono ot the principal Now York social events of last week was the mnrrlaco of Miss Sail lo r'loyd-Jonos , daughter of the Into David K. Floyd-Jones , who was a member of the assembly und ut ono time bccrotury of ftnio of Now York , to Captain Harnardlstoii of England , grandson to the carl of Dart mouth. Mr , Pullman uai presented bis lucksou - n-lftw xvlth the Uoyrt pnlaco In San Kifnol , Cal. The house Is ono of the handsomest on the Pad fie const , nnd hns long been the homo of John T. Boyd , a Snn Francisco cap italist. The grounds surrounding It are provided , among other attractions , with n fishing pond. Ono of the first society events of import in Newport this season was the wedding of Miss Catharine Hunt , daughter of Mr. nnd Mrs. Illchnrd M. Hunt , to Ueutoimnt Liv ingston Hunt , whoso father was nt ono tlmo secretary of the navy nnd nt another iltno American minister to Russia , It took place on Thtirsdny. Jnson of old went to ColchU to steal the golden fleece , nnd had to marry Medon , the sorceress , who hod helped him lo capture the booty. Today the wool of Jason , n colored clergyman In Ornniro , N. J. , Is In danger from Miss Adeline Brown , n member of his congregation , \\lio had assisted him In bring- IngMreasuros moro valuable than gold to his Hock. Miss Drown Is suing her pastor for broach of promise of mnrrlngo. On Juno 2S , nt Mollno , 111. , Elsworth Mapos nnd his good wlfo celebrated the stxtv-slxth anniversary of their marriage. Mr. Mnpes Is nnd has boon for many years n Jusilco of the ponce In Mollno. Ho will bo 87 yonrs old next September. Mrs. Mnpos , who wns mar ried nt the ngo of 17 , is now 83. They hnvo raised n largo family of children. The Nil ill n Was DoreptlM' . "You cannot nhvnys toU whnt u thinp la \ > y the rmtno it boars , " suld Mr. Do- pow the ether day to a Now York Times man. "Somo yours ago 1 mot an ICng- lishnmp in London , and our conversa tion soon touched upon Investments in American securities. The Englishman informed mo that until a short ttmo before fore ho had several thousand pounds in New York Central nnd Lake Shore se curities , 'but I took my money out of these properties , ' said bo , 'and rein vested it in an American railway that I think will pay much bolter. ' 'Alny I ask what the now investment is ? ' said I. 'Certainly'replied my London acquaint ance.ll pot hold of a prospectus of the Now York , Boston & Montreal nulwny , and I made up my mind that a railway between the three principal cities in America wtis about the best paying thing that you could havo. ' That railroad , " continued Mr. Dopow , "is now known as the New York & Northern. It has not reached either Boston or Montreal us yet. " Baby's cheek Is like n peacft , Is It Madame Uupport's bleach ? No ! but baby's mama's cheek Volumes to its praise doth speak ! Cull for Mine. Kupport'a book , "Ilnw to bo Doautl- ful | " Anew nti'l ' Complete Trcntaiont. consisting of Suppositories , ointment In I'apsalui , nlau In llox nail Pills : n Poilllvo Curu for Kjlorinil , Intornnl blind or lllocillnsllclilnir , Clironlc , Hooontor Ituruill- tnry I'llo * Tills llemeily Ivn nuvur ln'on known to full. Sllior box tiforji , soatbjf mill Wliy aullorfrom thUtorrlblo illaDiao whin n wrltfn uu mint ou 1 positively cl'on wltHO l > o\oi or rotund the monoyla not cured .send atamp for frao * > nuiplo. liiiurailtof Kuhn . Co , ' rttilu . rno Biuml by nuiiii tvv.u , Dnn'liH i AKWIU.CO Utll 111 I DOUUllM 11TJ3 I 1)11 III ERAJU nn. E.G. WISTS NHHVK ANIIIIIAINTIHAT MKNT. a spcclllo for ll > 9torli. DUzlrusj , I'lti , .N'uu- r.ilKln , llendiiclm. Nervous 1'rostraton cauu4 bj ulcohoior lobncco. Wakuftilni * * ! ) , .Montnl Duurdi- slon , rioltnessof the llr.iln causing Insanity , uilsury. di'ciy.dmith. Promituro Old Aue. IljriviiL'M. I-OH of PoNer In cltbor sov , Impotuncy , l.oucorrlioi an 1 nil l-omnlo Wc.iknu sjs liuoluntary I.OSXIH , Spjr- mnlorrliiM cimod by mur-tsxurtlon of til ) liriila holf-iibusoovur ItnlulkMnco. A month's tiMitmont tl.fi fori , by mull , WeKiwrnnti-OHl * boxes to euro Kncli order for o boxoi , ulth $ j nlll bond written Bimranti'oto refund If nut cured ( junruntee tssuul only by A , bclirotor. Orugulst , nolo ancnt. bontlunst orucr loth nnd 1'arnnni eta. Onmlm ALLAN LINE KOVAL MAIL MONTREAL "n ' 'j w VIRloor. ; CABIN , S 15 to WHO. According to atuamoi and louatlmi of Staluroom. Iutorinellati < nnd htfor.iuo at low rates. NO CATTLE ALLAN LINE LINK ) STKAMSIIFI'S NEW YOUKaud GLASUOW. VlaLoudondorry , ovurr KurliilRlit. .Tilly lull . STATKOKNKllltASKA . t P. it. July Kith . . .HTATJ ; OK UALlTOll.MA. 1:30 P. M. Aug. lltll . &TATK OP NKVAIIA . .noou ( , 'abln , flO , Second I'tibln f II. bti-crnee , $111. Appb to ALLAN \CO. , Ohlc.iKO. II. K. MOOltll , IM'J Ilonurd M. Onmlm "Cod bless the Houston Cure Institute"has been the honest pniyor ol many a wife and mother , who has been saved from a lifo of want and mis ery because the husband had taken treatment for the liquor disoasu at the Institute. Wo want everybody to como who la anxious to bo cured of liquor disease , or the opium or tobacco habits , and inves tigate our plans and methods of treat ment. There is sunshine and gladness in store for these who take the Houston Cure treatment. For particulars in regard to terms and testimonials , call or write to The Houston Cure Institute , Corner 15th ami Howard Sts. , Omalm. .411K YOUR Effi KIty llltM ! TO SOU. Call on us AT ONC1 ! anil li'ivo tlicin onm- lutul ( I'miK Orcil MUil ! ) liy our Optician , und , If noccMinrrIltcil ( wllli 11 imlrof our I'lCUI'lCC TIO.N KYKiJI.AM-IIMlirHI'KUT UC8.V lit bClKNTiri'Al.l < V wnil Krlnd luiisoa tu correct all thu various ilufocta of vision , euch ns HYI'KllMKTWM'lA Uur Bight ) , MYOPIA Incur i-lKht ) . IMIIWIIVOI'IA ( old nlKbti.AH'J'Ki.MATIHM ( Im-Kulnr ulclill. AbTMK.NOIMA ( uciik ulutitl DII'UII'IA ( iluuplu slk-llt ) . ANIbO.MKTUOI'IA ( unuqunl MX III ) , sTKAIllbMUH ( squint or cross vyo ) , old. , utc. SOLID GOLD SPECTACLES or EYEGLASSES from 83 Upwards. FINE STEEL SPECTACLES or EYEGLASSES from $1 Upward. COLORED GLASSES for Shmliiiff the Eyes from 50u Up. MAX MEYER & BRO , GO Practical Opticians. FABSAM and J6lb Sis. , OMAHA. > Established 1866. AN ACHING BACK There Is tu > Irncnyn remedy that equals WOOD'S PENETRATING & * Improvement ou or- CM BCTCD ilinary jiorous iilas- r LHO I C.rrrh.lt Is nrvvolution in plastcis , Wood's it the only clatter having | wcr to dilate the pom and penetrate to the seat of pain , bOLD UV DRUGGISTS UVURYWIIUUK N.Y. Depot , pj William St , you know wiry with pleasure Ourfaces so beam ? Our Sen/ante / Our life Tve'er is a grunxbte , drean\ \ . SAWTA IL LA.U1 > cXn < T Is ttje cause of our bliss ; * For all - p. sorts - it aniiss. MADE ONLY BY N.K.FAIRBANK& _ _ ABSOLUTELY POKE tk CO. KANSAS CITV.MO. tlusy terms send atnmp for clr ular nnd price list TO S. BE. CO1.YIH , MrCoolc , KiMlnlllon- County , Ni-liriiHhn The UNPRECEDENTED SUCCESS that the Behr Bros. & Go's. Haicnttn'lnrd , and the lii-Ii itraisi ) ( hey have clirllol from ( ho world'OIOST llti * NOWNK1) ) ARTISTS , frmn tie ! pros ami fro.n a public- long prrjiiillcoJ In favor r di-r makes , ills .rnfuto assum1 t'nt Uu iiHtru.ii j it mint l u PIHIHJJ ! of 3ION A'lTKIHUTiS. : A'lTKIHUTiS.MAX MEYER & BRO. CO. , Sole Agents , Omaha , Nebraska , Established 1866. OOLLEGDENVER DENVER COLORADO. CONDUCTED BY THE FATII ns or THE SOCIETY OF JESUS. This institution affords every facility fur obtaining n tboixniKli , Classical , Scientific and English Education. Slumtcxl on ; \ bountiful knoll ubout ( Iftoon minutes rlilu by olnutrlu linn from Denver , llrc- colvuu tlio full nenii'lU of tlio liu.ilthful und llfn-Klvlnir bruu/cs ilmt have inndu Colorado the sniiltiirluiii of Uio United btatos. Tlio grounds uuvur un npluiid tr.ict of llfly nuius , nntl the prospect Is ono of luld-s and mountains und mondowi. Kspoclul nttnntlonlsKlvan to thu pliysl- cultiuvolopumcnt of thustuduuis. Uatnlot.'iio.'i hunt free on application. THE RIPANS TABULES regulate the stomach , liver and bowels , purify the blood , are pleasant to take , safe and always effectual. A reliable remedy for Biliousness , Blotches on the Face , Bright's Disease , Catarrh , Colic , Constipation , Chronic Diarrhoea , Chronic Liver Trouble , Diabetes , Disordered Stomach , Dizziness , Dysentery , Dyspepsia , Eczema , Flatulence , Female Complaints , Foul Breath , Headache , Heartburn , Hives , Jaundice , Kidney Complaints , Liver Troubles , Loss of Appetite , Mental Depression , Nausca , Nettle llash , Painful Digestion , Pirn- pies , Hush of Ulood to the Head , Sallow Corn- plexion , Salt Rheum , Scald Head , Scrofula , Sick Headache , Skin Diseases , Sour Stom- ach , Tired Feeling , Torpid Liver , Ulcers , Water Urash and every other symptom or dis- ease that results from impure blood or a failure in the proper performance of their functions by the stomach , liver and intestines. Persons given to over-eating are benefited by taking one tabule after each meal. A continued use of the Ripans Tabules is the surest cure for obstinate constipation. They contain nothing that can be injurious to the most delicate. Price : One gross § 2 , sample bottle 15 cents. For sale by Druggists , or sent by mail postage paid. Address THE RIPANS CHEMICAL COMPANY , New York. 1316 Douglas Street , Omaha , Neb. Tti * eminent ipoMnllit In iisrvoui , cluonlc , prtvnlo. blood , ektnantl nnnnr } dln'iiioi A ronltr Mil rndUBiolu nui.lclno. us illplomui imil turillluututnhuvr , Ii still truutliiK with tbuvreituit KUCCU M caturrli , ipurumtorrhoos , lunl muuliooil , omliml wimkiiuu. ultibt lo os. lini'muiicy. ri"lilH , tlrloturo , tofi < orrlioua , Kl i > tTnrlcor lucto. No merviiry ut 'l. ' Men trimtniunl furloitof ll l ixiwir , 1'nrllei uuuUU to vult ruomn > telrantol * l liomu by eurronpunduncu , Modlcln * or Inilruiufati > unt UT null < jr oipru s < curulr packed , nu marks to Iniltcitlu coiitisiim or sunder. Uno uurnoiml inluriluw prurmrctl. Cuniuliatlun Ireu. rorrutpoiiduiii'O itrlctlr mlvaiu. Hunk ( MjrutvrUi ol Ue ) lunt tint , onlog buur > V k. u. M V p , uu Buuilaji Wft. m.to | 3 m. Bun J Hump Jot ruylj. CmcntsTcirs ttiQucfi. RCD CROSS THE ORIGINAL AND CCNUINC. 1b iiiilf H fi > Hurt , B4r Uall * I'HI for > ! Litllf , ttik DrutilK fir C.ieA r r' AnjrlUA / ' ( < * wt nj Jtfan4 tu It * J uJ 0't.M m UUI0 M-klwl Ub blut r ttx > o , Tt1 o NU other Llntl. At"i tfitiitui | it * n. | /m/ifi ( ni All till * lu i > kit lM > tr4 LOI I , ilbk wrti'tivri. art ditnifirou * rfUHlArTi It * * M iJruiEliit.fr * b4 4 4 .lb iuioit tor | > sitlcBliri , r'i.o l ' * IU.Ur for I dh .H * i ( * II r , Lrtturn Mull. ll.ll ( > OlMll > uUl > . U mtl rtr , CHIGHHTCHGHtMie. ! . . . . . ttol.l br ull Ivtul Urunal.u.
