10 THE OMAHA JDAUjY BEE , HUNJD&ft JMfiOEMBEK 0 , 1801 SIXTBBN PAGES.
AT Tl SHlll
By MARK TWAIN.
.
[ Copyriyhtcd by the Author 1301. ]
It THIS nt Nuremberg thixt wo struck the
inundation of music-mad strangers that VIM
rolling down upon Bayreuth. It had boon
long Inco wo had ( icon such multitudes of
oxcltod and struegllne people. It took n
good half hour to pack them and pair them
Into the train nnd it was the longest train
wo hiwo yet scon In Europe. Nuremberg
had noon witnessing this sort of experience
a couple of times n 'day for about two weeks.
It gives ono an Impressive sense of the mag
nitude of this blonnlal pljgrlmiijo. For n
pllgrlmago U what It Is. The devotees come
from the very on ds of the earth to worship
tholr prophet In h is own iCaaba In his own
Mecca.
If you nro living In Now York or San
Francisco or Omaha or anywhere else in
America , nnd you conclude , by the mlddlo of
May , that you would like to attend the IJay-
routh opera two months and a half later , you
must use the cable nnd got about U Immed
iately , or you will got no seats , nnd you must
cable for lodgings , too. Then If you nro
lucky you will got seats In the last row nnd
lodgings in the fringe Of the town. If you
stop to write you will got nothing. Tnoro
were plenty of people in Nuremberg when
wo passed through who had como on pilgrim
age without ilr t securing seats and lodg
ings. They were found neither in Hayrouth ;
they had wnliceJ Bayrouth street * n while In
sorrow , then gone to Nuremberg and found
neither beds or standing room , nnd had
walked those quaint streets nil night waiting
for the hotels to open und empty tholrguoits
into the trains , and so make room lor these ,
tholr defeated brethren and slstors in the
fnlth. They had endured from thirty to
forty hours' railroading on the continent of
Europe with all which that Im
plies of worry , fatigue and finan
cial impoverishment nnd all they
hnd got and all they were to get for it was
handlnoss nnd accuracy in kicking thorn-
solves , acquired by practice In the back
streets of the two towns when other people
were in bed ; for back they must go over that
unspeakable journey with tholr pious mission
unfulfilled. These humiliated outcasts had
the frowsy nnd unhrushod and upalogotlo
look of wet cats , and tholr eyes were glazed
with drowsiness , their bodies were adroop
from crown to solo , and all kind Hearted pco-
plo refrained from asking thorn if they had
boon to Bnyrouth and failed to connect , as
knowing they would lie.
\Vo reached hero ( Bayreuth ) about mid-
afternoon of n rainy Saturday. Wo were of
the wlso , and had secured lodgings and oporu
voats months in advance.
I am not a musical critic , and did not como
hero to write essays about the operas and do-
llvor Judgment upon tholr merits. The little
children of Bayrauth could rlo that with a
finer sympathy and n broader intelligence
than 1. I only care to bring four or flvo pil
grims to thu operas , pilgrims nblo 10 appro-
elate them and enjoy them. What I might
write about the performances to put iu my
oda time would bo offered to the publio as
merely a cat's view of n king , and not of
dldaotlo value.
Next day , which was Sunday , wo loft for
the opera house that U to say , the Wagner
temple a little after the mlddlo of the after
noon. The great building stands all by itself ,
grand and lovely , on high ground outsldo the
town. Wo wcro warned that if wo arrived
after 4 o'clock wo should bo obliged to pay
$ a.GO npleco extra by way of lino. We
saved tnat ; and it may bo remarked hero
that this is the only opportunity Europe
offers of saving money. Thcro was a big
crowd In the grounds about tno building , nnd
the ladles' dresses took the sun with tlno
effect. I do not moan to intimate that the
ladles were In full dross , for that was not so.
The dresses were pretty , but neither s.ox was
in evening dross.
Tbo interior of the building is simple se
verely so ; but there is no occasion [ or color
and decoration , since the people nit in the
dark. The auditorium has tno shape of a
keystone , with the btago at the narrow end.
There is nn aisln on onch side , Imt no aisle In
the oody of thu house. Each row of seats ex
tends in nn unbroken curve from ono sldo of
the house to the othar. There nro seven en
trance doots on each sldo of the theater and
four at the but end eighteen doors to admit
and emit 1,050 persons. The number of the
particular door by which you nro to enter the
house or leave it is printed on your tlckotand
you can use no door but that one. Thus ,
crowding und confusion are Impossible. Not
so many as 100 people use any cue door. This
is better than havinir ' tbo usual ( aim useless )
elaborate and tlrcpro'of arrangements , it Is
the model theater of the world. It can bo
emptied while the second hand of n watch
makes its circuit. It would bo entirely safe ,
even if it were built of luclfor matches.
If your seat Is near tbo center of n row nnd
you enter late , you must wont your way
along a rank of about twenty-live ladles and
gentlemen to got to It. Yet this causes no
trouble , for everybody stands up until nil the
scats are full , and the tilling is accomplished
in u very few minutes. Taen all sit down ,
nnd you have n solid mass of 1,500 heads
maklnc a steep cellar-door slant from the
rear of the house down to the stage.
All the lights were turned low , so tow that
the congregation sit | Iu a deep nnd solemn
gloom , The funereal rustling of dresses and
the low biuz of conversation began to dlo
swiftly down , nnd presently not the ghost ot
a sound was loft. Tills profoilnd.nnd increas
ingly impressive stillness continued yet dur
ing some time the bent preparations for
muslo , spectacle , or speech conceivable. 1
should think our show people would have In
vented or imported that simple and impress
ive dovlco for securing and .solidifying the
attention of nn audience loni : ngo ; instead of
which they contmuo to this day to open u
performance against n deadly competition in
the form of uouo , confusion , and a scattered
interest.
Finally , out of darkness and distance and
mystery soft rich notes rose upon tbo still
ness , and from his grave the uo.-ul magician
began to wenvo his spells about hU disciples
and stoop their souls in his onch nutmonts.
There was something strangely impressive in
the fancy which kept intruding itself that
the compobur was conscious in his grave of
what was goliigon hore.and tliat these illvlno
sounds won ) thu clothing of thoughts which
wore at this moment passing through his
brain , not rocognizrd and familiar ones
which had Issued from it nt soma former
time.
The entire overture , long as it was. was
played to u dark house with tbo curtain down.
It was exquisite , it was delicious. But
straightway .thereafter , of course , came the
ilnglng , and it does scorn to me that nothing
can make a Wagner opera absolutely parfeot
and satisfactory to the untutored but to leave
out the vocal parts. I wish I could soon
Wagner opera done In pautomluio once. Then
0110 would have the lovely orchestration un-
vexed to listen to and bntho lib spirit in , and
the bowildorlngly beautiful scenery to Intoxi
cate his eyes with , and the dumb acting
couldn't mar these pleasures , because there
Isn't often anything in the Wngnor opera that
one would call by such a violent name as not
ing ; as a rule all you would see would bo a
couple of silent people , ono of them stnudlng
still , tbo other catching Hies , Of course I
do not really moan that bo would bo catching
flies , I only mean that the usual operatic ges
tures , which consist in reaching 11 Mt one
hand out Into the air , and then the other ,
might suggest the sport I speak of if the
operator intended strictly to business and
uttered no sound.
This present opera was "Parsifal. " Mmo.
Wagner docs not permit its rupiosontatlon
anywhere but in Bayreuth. The Jlrst act of
the three occupied two hours , und I enjoyed
that in iplto of tbo singing.
I trust that I know as well as nuyboJy
that ilnglugU ono of the uion oat running
and bewitching and moving and eloquent of
til tha vehicles Invented by man for the con-
voylng of feeling ; but it scorns to mo that
j n chief vlrtuo in song Is melody , air ,
tune , rnythm , or what you please to
call it. nnd when this tealuro Is ab
sent , what remains Is n plcturo with the
color loft out. I was not nblo to detect In the
vnoal parts of "Parsifal" anything that
bo called rhythm or
uitulitllli confidence
'uno or melody ; ono person performed at n
tlmo-niidalongtlmc , too-oftun In a noble
nnd often in a hlgh-prlcod volco ; but ho only
pulled out long notes , then uomo short ones ,
then another long ono , then a sharp , quick ,
norotnntorv bark or two-mid so on and soon
onanil when uo was done you snw that the
Information which ho had conveyed had not
compensated for the disturbance. Not
always , but pretty often. If two of them
would but put in n duet occasionally nnd
blond the volcos ; but no. they don't do that.
The great master , who know so well how to
make a hundred instruments rejolro in unison
und pour' out tholr souls in mingled and
melodious tidoi of delicious sound ,
deals onlv In barren solos when
ho puts In the vocal parts. It may bo that ho
was deep , nnd only added the singing to his
operas for the sake of the contrast It would
make with the music. Singing ! H does scorn
the wrong name to apply to it. Strictly de
scribed , it is the practicing of dilUcnlt und
unpleasant Intervals , mainly. An ignorant
person gets tired of listening to gymnastic
intervals in the long run , no matter how
In "Pnrsllnl" there
pleasant they may be.
is a hermit named Gurnomanz who stands on
the stngo In the ono spot nnd practices by the
hour , whno first ono'nnd then another character -
actor of the cast endures what ho can of It
and retires to dlo.
During the evening there was an Intermis
sion of throe quarters of an hour nftor tlio
first act and ono an hour long after the sec
ond. In both instances the theater was to
tally emptied. People who had previously
engaged tables in the ono solo eating hotiso
were nblo to put In their tli.io very satlsrac :
torily ; the other thousand wont hungry.
The opera was concluded nt 10 in the evening
or a little later. When wo reached homoiWJ
had boon gone moro than seven hours. Sev
en hourj at S3 n ticket U too much for the
money.
While browsing about the front yard among
the crowd between the acts 1 encountered
twelve or llftcon friends from different parts
of Amorioi , and tboso of thorn < vho were
most familiar with Wagner , said that "Par-
fal" seldom pleased nt llwt.but lhat after ono
had hoard it several times it was almost sure
to become the favorite. It scorned impossi
ble , out It was true , for tno statement came
from people whoso word was not to bo
doubted.
And 1 gathered some further information.
On the ground I found part of a Gorman mus-
iral magazine , nnd in it n letter written by
Unite thirty-three years ago , in which no defends -
fends the scorned and abused Wiignor against
people llko me , who found fault with the
comprehensive absence of what our kind re
gards as singing. Uhlic says Wagner de
spised "Jono'plnpporudo muslk , " and there
fore "runs , trills , nnd schnorkel are discard
ed by him. " I don't know what a schnorkel
is , but now that I know it has been loft out
of these operas I never have missed anything
so much in my life. And Uhlic further snys
that Wngnot'd song Is true song ; that it Is
"simply emphasized intoned speech. "
That certainly describes it in "Parsifal"
and some of the other operas ; nnd , If I
understand Uhllc's elaborate German ,
ho apologizes for the beautiful airs in "Tnnn-
hauser. " Verp well ; now that Wagner and
I understand each otner. perhaps we shall
got along oetter , and I shnll stop calling him
Waggnor on the American plan , and here
after call him Voggner , as nor Gorman cus
tom , for I fnol entirely fne'udly now. The
minute wo got reconciled to a person how
willing wo nro to throw aside little , need
less punctilios and pronounce his name
right.
Of course I came homo wondering why people -
plo should come from all the corners of
America to bear these operas , when wo have
lately hnd a season or two of thorn In Now
York with those sumo singers In the several
parts , and possibly the same orchestra. I re
solved to think that out at all hazards.
Tuesday Yesterday they played the only
operatic favorite I have over had an opera
which has always driven mo mad with ignor
ant delight whenever I have hoard it "Tann-
hauser. " I heard it lirst when I was a youth ,
I heard it last In the last German season In
Now York. I was busy yesterday and I did
not Intend to go , knowing I should have an
other "Tannhauser" opportunity in n few
days ; but after 5 o'clock I found myself free
and walked out to the opera house nnd ar
rived nbout the beginning of the second not.
My opera ticket admitted mo to the grounds
In front , past the policemen and the chain ,
and I thought 1 would take n lest on a bench
for an hour or two and wait for the third act.
In a moment or so the llrst bugles blownnd
the multitude began to crumble apart and
molt Into the theatre. I will explain that tills
buttle call is one of the prettiest features
hero. You see , the theatre Is empty , and
hundreds nf the audience are a good way off
in tbo leudlng house ; the llrst bugle call Is
blown nbout n quarter of an hour before
tuna for the curtain to rise. This company
of uuglars , in uniform , march out with mili
tary step nnd send out over the landscape a
few bars of the theme of thu approaching
net , piercing the distances with the gracious
note * , then they inarch to the other on-
trunco nnd repeat. Presently they do this
over again. Yesterday only about two hun
dred people were still loft In front of the Homo
when the second call was blown ; In another
half minute they would have been In
thu house , but then n thing happened
which delayed them the ono solitary thing
in this world which could bo relied ou with
certainty to accomplish it , I suppose nn im
perial princess appeared in the- balcony
above them. They stopped dead in tholr
traetts , and began to ga/.c , In a stupor of
gratltuda and .satisfaction. The lady pres
ently snw that she must 'disappear or the
door would bo closed upon these worship
pers , so she returned to her box. This dnugh-
tor-ln-law of nn emperor was pretty ; bho hnd
a kind face ; shu was without airs ; she Is
known to bo full ot common human sympa
thies. There are many kinds of princes ,
bat this kind is the moiU harmful of nil , for
wherever they go they reconcile people to
monarchy and sot back the clocit of progress.
The valuable prlnca < , the desirable princes ,
are the czars and tholr sort. By tholr mere
dumb presence in tbo world they cover with
derision uvory argument that can bo invented
in favor of royalty by the mast Ingenious
casuist. In his time the husband of this
princess was valuable. Ho led n degraded
life , ho ended it with his own hand in cir
cumstances nnd surroundings of a hideous
sort , ami was burled like a god.
In the opera house tboro is a long loft back
of tbo audience , a kind of open gallery , in
which princes are displayed , It is sacred to
them , it Is the holy of holies. . As soon as the
Illllng ot the house is about complete , tlio
standing multitude 11 x their eyes upon the
princely layout and guzu mutely and long
ingly and adortucly and regretfully like sin
ners looking into heaven , They become
wrapt , unconscious , steeped Iu worship.
Tbcru is no spectacle nr.y wnoro that is moro
patbotio ( ban this. It Is worth crossing many
oceft * to 30 * < i 1s somehow not the same
ROZO thnt people nvotunon a Victor Hugo , or
Ntagnr.t , or tno bones of thd mastodon , or the
euillotlno of the revolution , ' or the great
pyramid , or "distant Vesuvius smoking In the
sky , or any man long cifldbratdd to yod by
his genius and achievements , or thing
long celebrated to you by tbo prolsos
of books and pictures no , that gnzo
Is only tno garo of Intense cilrloilty ,
Interest , woudcr , engaged In drink-
Ins delicious deep draughts that tusto good
nil the way down and appease And satisfy
the thrlst of n lifetime , tinilsfy It that Is
the word. Hugo nnd the m\Stotlon : will still
have n dcgroa of Interest thereafter when
encountered , but n < 5vcf nnythlng npprnnch-
Ing the ecstasy of that first view. The Inter
est of n prince Is different. H may ho envy ,
It mny bo worship , doubtless it Is a mixture
of both nnd it does not satisfy its thirst
with ono view or oven noticeably diminish It.
Perhaps the fssonco of the tiling Is the vnluo
which men attm-h to n valuable something
which has como by luck and not been earneif.
A dollar picked up In the road is moro antls-
fnctlon to you than the nltitity nnd nlno
which you hnd to work for , ttnd money won
nt fnro or In stocks sijuuglcs Into your heart
in the same way. A prlnco picks up grand-
cur , power nnd 11 permanent holiday and
gratis support by n pure accident , the nccl-
dvnt of birthnnd ho stands ulwnys before the
grieved eye of poverty and obscurity a
monumental representative of luck. And
then supromost vnluo of all his is tno only
lil li fortune on the cnrth which Is sociiro.
The commercial millionaire may u ceo mo n
beggar , the Illustrious statesman can make < i
vital mistnku nnd bo dropped and forgotten ;
tl o Illustrious general can lose n decisive bat-
Uo and \\itli It the consideration of men ; but
once n prlnco always a prince , thnt Is to say ,
nn imitation god'nnd neither hard fortune
nor nn infamous character nor nn ndilied
brain nor the speech cif an ass can undolfy
him. Bv common cor sent of nil the tuitions
und nil thongct , the most valuable thing in
this world Is the homitro of men , whether de
served or undeserved. It follows without
doubt or question , then , that the most dusir-
nhlo position possible Is that of u prinro.
And I think It also follows that the so-called
usurpations with which history are llttorod
tire ttio most excusable misdemeanors which
men have committed. To usurp a usurpation
that is all it amounts to , Isn't it )
A tinnco is not to us what So is to a Euro
pean" , of course. Wo have not boon taught to
regard him as a god , and so ono g'cou look at
nlm is likely to so nearly appease our curi
osity as to mnicu him an object of no g rcat in
terest next time. Wo want a fresh ono. But
it Is not s > o with the European , I am quite
sure of it The same old one will answer ;
he no/or stnlns. JSlghtoou years ngo I was
in London , nnd I cullpd at 'an Englishman's
house on a bleak and foggv and dismal
IJecember afternoon to visit his wlfo nnd
married daughterby appointment. I waited
half an hour , and thun they arrived , frozen.
They explained that they hnd been delayed
by iin unlooked-for circumstance : while pass
ing in thtj neighborhood of Malborough house
tho-saw a crowd gathering , and .woro told
that the prince of Wales was about to drive
out , so they stonped to got a sight of bin' .
They had waited a half hour on the sidewalk ,
freezing with the crowd , but were disap
pointed at last the pilnco had changed his
inind. 1 said , with n fcood deal of surprise :
"Is it possible that you two hn/o lived in
London all vour lives and have never soun
the prince of Wales J"
Apparently it was tnoir turn to bo sur
prised , for they exclaimed :
"What an idea ! Why , wo have seen him
hundreds of times. "
They had scon him hundreds of.timcs . , yet
they hud waitou half an hour iu 'tho gloom
and the blttor cold , in the midst ot u jam of
patients from the same asylum on the chance
of seeing him again. It was a stupofyinir
statement , but ono is obliged to believe the
English , oven vhen tcoy say a thing like
that. I fumbled nround for n remark , ana
got out this ono :
"I can't understand itnt nil. If I had never
soon Ucnoriti ( Jraiit , I doubt if I would do
that uvor. to gut n sight of him , " with u
slight emphasis on the last word.
Their blank faces sbonnit that they won
dered where the parallel came in. Then tnoy
said blandly :
"Ot course not. Ho is only a president. "
It Is doubtless a fact thnt a prlnco is n per
manent interest , an interest not subject to
deterioration. The general who was never
defeated , the general who never held a coun
cil of war , the only general woo ever com
manded a connected battle front 1-OU
mllei long , tbo smith who welded to
gether the broken pans of a gieat republic ,
and ro-cstablishod it whuro It Is quito likely
to outlast all tlm monarchies present and to
como , was really a person of no serious con
sequence to these pooplo. To thorn , witk
tholr training , my gonor.il was onlu man
after all , whllo thnlr prince was clearlv much
moro than that , a being of a wholly unsiml-
Inr construction and constitution , a being of
no move blood nnd kinship with men than are
the sercno eternal lights of the firmament
with the poordull tallow candles ot commerce
that sputter and diobtid lunvo nothing behind
but a pinch of ashes and n stink.
I saw Iho last act of "Tannhauser. " I sat
in the gloom nnd the deep stillness waiting
ono in i n u to , two ininntoj , I do not Know ox-
actlv how long then the soft music of the
bidnon orchestra begun to breathe Its rich ,
long sighs out from under the distant stngo ,
and by and by the drop curtain parti-cl in the
middle und was drawn slowly aside , disclos
ing a twlllghtod wood and a wayside shrine ,
with n white robed girl praying nnd a man
standing near. I'rcsutitlv that noble chorus
of men's voices was board approaching , nnd
from that moment until thocloalng.of the cur
tain it was imiMc , just music musio to muko
ono drunk with pleasure , niutflo to make ono
take scrip aud stalt and hog hU way round
tlm glebe to hear it.
To such ns nin Intending to como hero in
tbo Wngnor season next year I wlih to say ,
bring your dinner pall with you. If you do ,
you will never ccuso to bo thankful. If you
do not , you will Hnd it a hard light to save
yourself from famishing In linynjyfh. liny-
rcuth is merely iv lurgu villageaud has no
very largo hotels or Dating bouses. Tbo
principal inns uro thu Golden Anchor And tba
Sun. At either ot those places yqu can got
un excellent meal no , 1 mean you can go
there nna sea other people get it. Tnero is
uo nlmrgo for this. The town Is llttorod with
restaurants , but they are small nnd.bad , and
they nro overdriven with custom. You must
secure n table hours beforehand'nnd often
when you arrive you will Hnd somuboJy oc
cupying It.Vohave had this oxporlencoVo
have had n dally scramble for llfo ; mid when
I say wo , 1 include shoals of pooplo. I have ,
the Impression that the only people who do
not have to scramble .are the veterans
thu disciples who have boon here bo fora aud
know the ropes , I think they arrlvo about a
week before the llrst opera and engage nil
the tables for the oanon , My trioo have
tried all kinds of places some outside of tbo
town u rallo or two -and havo' cdpturcM'oiily
nibbllngs and odds aud ends , never in any In
stance n complete and satisfying meal. Ol-
gestlblol No , the reverse. These odds aud
ends nro going to servo as souvenirs of iiny-
routb , and In that regard thtlr value is not to
bo overestimated , t'nntographs fade , bric-n *
qrao guts lost , busts of Wagner get broken ,
hut once you absorb a iluyrouth rospvuraut
meal it Is your possession nnd your property
uutll tbo tlmo comoi to ombalai the roit ot
you. Some of these pilgrims here become In
effect cnblncts'f ' enblnoU of souvenirs of Hay'
routh. It U MAltVod nmonp scientists that
you could oxnuilQD the crop of n dead Bay-
rculh pllgrlin i/yxvhoro / in the cnrth nnd to
where ho came" from , Utit I llko tills ballast.
I think n "HocmlUuro" scriipo-up , ot 8 In the
evening , when iitl the famlnn-breodcrs have
been there nntl Jald in their mementoes and
Hone , is the quiou\st thing you can lay on
your Icool.ion excapt gravel.
Thursdny-r-TncM keep two teams of silicons
In stock for the other roles , and ono of tticso
It composed of'lhtvtiiost ' renowned artists in
the world , witbAMatorim and Alvnry In the
load. I suppose n double team U nccesiury ;
doubtless n single team would dlo of oxhnus *
tton within u wcplf , for all the plays last from
4 In tbo afternoon till 10 nt ti'ght. ' Nearly all
the labor fnlls o'ppn the half dozen head slug-
on , and iipparonm- they uro required to fur
nish all the noise they can for tbo money. If
they feel n soft , whlspory , mysterious feelIng -
Ing they nro required to open out nnd lot the
public know It. Opera * nro given only ou
Sundays , Mondays , Wednesdays nnd Thurs
days , with three days of ostensible rest per
wool : , und txvo tennis to do the four operas ,
but the ostensible rest is devoted largely to
rehearsing. It Is snld thnt the alt days are
devoted torehcarsiiiir from some tlmo in the
morning tilt 10 at night. Are there two or
chestras tiho ) It I-i quite likely since there
are 110 names Iu the orchestra list.
Yesterday tno ODOM was "TrUtnti and
Isolde. " I linvo seen nil orts of audiences
at theaters , operas , concerts , lectures , ser
mons , funerals hut none which was twin to
\Vagncrniidicnco of Hnyroutli for llxod
and reverential attention , nbsolilto stillness ,
and petnllcd attention to the o-id of nn act of
the attitude assumed nt the beginning of It.
You detect no movement In the solid mim
of heads nn 1 shoulders , you seem to sit with
the dead In the gloom of a tomb , You know
that they nro being stirred to tholr pro-
foutulost depth < ; that there are times when
they want to ri o nnd wnvo handkerchiefs
und shout their approbation , und times
when teats are running ( town thulr fucos and
it would bo n relief to Ireo their pent emo
tions In sobs or screumu ; yet jou hear not
onouttcrauce till tlm curtain sxvings together
and the closing strains nave slowlvfiidod out
and died : then tha do.id rlso with ono Ini-
pulsoand shuko the building witn their up-
pluuso. Every scat I * full Iu the llrst net ,
tbnro is not a vacant , ono in the lost. If n
man would tlKo to bo conspicuous lot him
como here and rotiri ) from the opera house in
the midst of an act. It would make him culo-
bratqd.
The nudionco reminds me of nothing 1 have
overseen and of nothing I have read about
except the cttv in the Arabian tulo wbeio
all thu inhabitants have been turned to brass ,
ami the traveler limit them after ccn'urics ,
mute , motionless , and still rotnining the atti
tudes uhic-h they last know in life. Here thr >
VVngnorauiliencf drois as they plonsc.and sit
in the dark nnd wbrshin in silence. At the
ftiotropolitnn in Now York they sit in a ulnro ,
they wear thuir showiest harness , they hum
airs , they t > quc.sk lans , they titter , and they
gabble all thu lime. In somu of the boxes
the conversation nnd lauchfcr are sn louu us
to divide the attention of the hou o with the
stnco. In n largo measure tbo Metropolitan
is a showea'o for rich fashionables who are
not t ruined \Vagnurian imislii and have no
rovorcnco for it , but who like to promote art
and show their clothes.
Can that bo an ngrecublo ntmosphoro to
persons in Whom 'this ' musio produces a sort
of diviiio ecstasy , and to whom its creator iso
'
o very deity , hls'stage a tornpk * , the works of
his bruin und hands' consecrated things and
the partaking of thorn with eye and car a sa
cred solemnity i Manifestly , no. Then per
haps the temporary expatriation , the tedious
traversing ot stum and continents , the pil-
erimago to B'ayreuth. stands explained.
TboRO devotees' would worship hi an at
mosphere of dovdOon. It is only hero that
that they can lliiit 1,1 without llcck or blemish
or any worldly pollution. In thU remote vil
lage there urouiio sights to see. there u no
newspaper to Inlrildo tbo worries ot lha dis
tant World ihcro'Js ' nothing going on. It is al
ways Bundav. 'T/ie ' / pilgrim wends to his
tcmplo out of , town , sits out his n oving
service , returns to his bed with his heart
and his soul 5 and his body exhausted
by long hours ' ot tremendous emo
tion , and ho is in tin lit couditlon to do any
thing but Ho toruM and slowly gather back
llfo and slrenf-th. for the next sen Ice. This
opera of "Tristan and Isolde" last night
broke the hcarls.ot'nl ! witnesses who were of
tho'faith ' and i know of some and have ncunl
of manv who could not sleep after it.utit cried
the nlghp nwav. I feel btronqly out of plnco
horo. Sometimes I feel like the , ono sane
person in n community of the mad : sometimes
t feel llko the ono blind man wticra oil othois
see ; the ono groping suvngo in the college
of the learned , and ulwavs , during service , I
feel llko a heretic in heaven.
But by no moans do I ever overlook or min
ify the fact that this is ono of the most ox ,
traordinnry experiences of my life. I have
never seen' anything like thu bcforo. I nave
never soon anything so great anil line nnd
real us his dovotion.
I'riday , Yesterday's opera was "l'ar ifiil"
again. The othori wont , und they show
marked ndvntivo in appreciation' but I went
hunting for relies and rcmtndors of the Mar
gravine Wilholmlnu , she of the imperishable
"Memoirs. " I am properly grateful to her for
her ( unconscious ) satire upon monarchy und
nobility , mid therefore nothing which her
hand touched , or her eye lookud upon , is indifferent -
different to mo. I am her pilgrim ; thu rest
of this multitude hero are Wagner's.
Tuoidiiy. I have scon my last two operas ,
my season is ended nnd uo cross over into
liohcmia this nriornoon. 1 was supposing
that my musical rfcL-u'iieraUon w.ia accom
plished and porloirjmf , because I enjoyed bcth
of these operas , slnfjpig nnd all , and , moreover -
over , ono ot them , , w/is "Parsifal ; " but the
exports have dUoaolnuitoil mo , Tnoy say :
"SIngltig ! TnutUVasn't singing ; that was
the walling and ijfcriicchlng ot Uilnl-nuo oti-
scurltlcs , palmed drt'bu us in the interest of
economy. " , ,
Welt , I ought to.luvo recognised the sicn
tboold , sure sign that has never frilled mo Iu
matters of art. Whenever I enjoy anything
In art It moans it 'fs'ttiighty ' poor. The prl-
vote knowledge ot , . , lus fact has saved IPO
from going to.piocq jvlth enthusiasm iu front
of many and mnny&uthroino. However , mj-
bnso instinct doct > brrtig mo profit sometimes ;
I was the only mhrf-ttUl of .1,200 who got his
money bacK on ItioYo two operas ,
SNAH SHUTS FOR THE BLUES ,
* > ' A t
Short and Pointed To.Ua on a Variety of
Topioi ,
THE JEAUFY OF A TYPEWaiTER.
i
A Alolnnuholy Keuoril of tliocoop"
Merit Hecojtni/.od and llo-
1'rnlltliiK by
tlio Cold Snap.
Dstrolt Frco Press : It was nt ismal
Kathei'lng the othnr evening when tbo tnllt
tunioil on typewriters.
"You oiiKht to co inlno , " snlti ft gentleman
who operates ono himself to a lady with
'
whom ho win uouverrilng. "She's a 'porfout
bouuty , nlwnys on linuil fresh nuil clean
and uovcr lo < ci inlnutu's tlmo. She's u
"Does your wlfo know about horl" ashed
the liuly.
"Oh , yes. " win Iho nnswe'r , "but she
doein't mind. "
"And "whoro dno- your typewriter stav
when she Isn't nt work ! "
"Oh , right in thu ofllco ! ti a nciit llttlu bluck
walnut caio. "
"I wish I had mv husband's ' typewriter In
a binds wulnut c.lsi , " was the response.
A Huston H > > r < ) mill Old Hutch .loko.
Ktiisull Sapu thinks ho Is the most nbsoiit-
miniloil man In town. So does "Old Hutch , "
thu proat whom operator.
Thu two melon the sidewalk in front of
the stock exchange iccontly , anil they both
j stopped lontf enough to try to prove to the
other his claim to the iibsont-imudod chiiin-
ploii.Hliip of thu world.
' Why , " iciunrKod Mr. Saee , ' ' stood nn
the corner of Twelfth street , and Sixth
avenue lor ten minutes this morning hold
ing up my Ilncer trying 'to stop too lj
tiMlns. "
"That's " "Oltl
nothing , satirically replied
Hutch. " "Why , yesterday morning I thought
I had cotiio ilowu town without my wutch
and 1 milled It out of my pocket to sue If Iliad
tlmo to ire hnme nnd not it. I found I hud
the time and I went. "
How Ho iVilok' ( > ( > iMl
Tuscnruwus Chronicle : Our enterprising
neighbor , HrotnorCieolhas purchased n new
pair of shom. Thh , to our wealthy loaders ,
may not seem like n very important Hem of
news , but tlia' , is because they huvo never
wearied their bruins and the seals of their
pants In the newspaper business. An expcrii-
once of some years teaches us that the editor
who collects enough money from delinquent
subscribers to buv a piir of shoes in the sad
autumn days is In luck. P. S. Wo need
shoos. Drop a dollar in thu slot and sco tlio
editor smile. N. B. If our delinquent sub
scriber * are uotng to let the measly editor of
thu Independent got uhcad of us on shoeswe
want to know It. right awuy. Money sent
by pqsloiUco order at our risk. Finally :
Send it boon , Brethren.
| hei \ si Strnw.
It was a good natured crowd that was in
the sumo oar with the newly married oounlc ,
suvs the Now York Promts , and it took little
uoiiro of their cudJlings nnd earossings.
Most of them wore npp.irontly married people
ple who had been thcru themseivoi , and \\ero
therefore charitably inclined. The turtle
doves , however , became so intcroitod In their
billing rind cooing that they quite forgot the
presence or others , and in .1 short time u cli
max was reached which led them to sit with
a loot of space between them until their dis-
tination was reached. Lightly loaning her
head upon his shoulder and looking up nt him
out of the depth of a pair of big blue ovossho
asked : "Who's swooti" A hush fell upon
the car iu bho listened for his answer. Bond
ing ; down until hK nuulachu almost touched
her brow , ho said : "Boto of us. " riien the
ciowd laughed , and the car shook so it almost
left the rails.
> { tcwuril nl Merit.
Chiearo Tribune : "Jacobs , " snid the man-
ailing ortitorqf in sMit dxily pipjr.WJirly ,
-'vUiati * tno ilium of our man ilo.vn ; at
Squareville ? "
"Ills name Is tiohaukus , " answers. ! the as
sistant.
"How mu o h arc wo paying hlmi"
"Something like fcll > u month. "
' Haise his salary 50 per cent , " said the
managing editor. "That is all , Jacobs. You
can go. "
Mr. Bohayluis of Squarovlllo was the only
ono of bevernl huudivd tolegraptu corrobpond -
cnts who hid not bsgun IJH.pcclal telegram
to the Puily Thunderbolt the night bjforo in
the o words : ' 'The ' election tiero passed off
Uuictly. " _
A Source ; of 1'rollt.
Detroit JTroo Press : "Are you over
troubled with kleptomaniacs j" asked the re
porter of the retail merchant.
"Never. "
"Don't any of them over conio into your
placoi" asked the reporter in surprise.
"Sure. Plenty ol them. But they never
trouble mo. "
"Don't they take things ! "
"Yes , but that is no trouble. "
"No trouble ! What do you mean ? "
"I moan what I sav. Wo-always catch
them at it and simply charge them four
prices for what they talco. Sool"
Tniftli'nl y
Boston Transcript : Young wlfo I had
such u friirht last evening at supper. 1
asked Will If ho loved mo.
Her boat friend Yes I And what did ho
sav !
You ntr wlfo That's Just it ; ho didn't say
n word , His fuco turned red and ho scowled
awfully. Oh , I felt so sad.
Her best triend-And was ho really so
ang'-y as that !
Younp wlfo--No , you goosov ; ho wasn't
ungiyatulU .He'd put a piece of hot potato
Into his mouth. Bat , my ! wasn't I tright-
onedl
_
A Question nt' l-'maiic'c.
Philadelphia Press : "What an nccumuln-
tlonof sweets tho-io little follow i noartll"
said a philosopher , contemplating an ant hill
swarming with my raids of tiny creatures.
"Yes , I suppose they are quito wealthy
from their standpoint. "
"Do you know by what principle ) they
manage to accumulate so much ! "
"No. Howl"
"Woll , probably because they understand
the principles ot line ants. "
'I ho Gram m 'ip ' Conl'iitrd.
New York Press : "Two negatives make
nn anlrmatlvo , you bellovof" "Yes. " "Woll ,
I don't take nnv stock In such nonsonso. "
"Why not ! " "Why not ! I'll tell you. Mon
day night I proposed to Mary , Iont > s and ho
said no ; Tucsdav night I proposed to .Inno
Smiih ami she said no. Tlicro nro two nega-
Uvoj for you. If you can mnko an utllrma-
tivo out of them you are a better grammarian
than I am. "
_ _
The Cold Sn.ip.
Washington Star : "Whnro's your wagon } "
asked the woman of the house M the lee man
rang the bull.
"tlnvoirumy today. Will you lot mo have
n bucket of water ! "
"Yea ; whaturo ytu going to do with It ! "
"I'm going to sot It out nn the front step
hero and let it free/o for you. The company
says business Is getting pretty poor , und wo
may as well tnku ndvantaga nf the cold snap
to out down expenses. "
The ! ' 'tr < ) i > riti'ri Hop : ,
Boston Courier : Sick Fireman I hope my
© O Cents a pound .for VAN HOUTEN'SJ
COCOA ( "Best & Goes Farthest" ) seems to be ; !
high. Let us compare it with the price of Coffee : ;
1 Ib. of good codec costs at least 3c. ( ) , makes 31 half-pint cups. | !
3 " ' " " therefore OOc. , " 03 ' " " ! !
1 "V.H.COCOA" also OOc. , " 150 " ' " |
Which is the Cheaper Drink ? TPB |
9Oc. 93 cups of Coflfoo , 2
6O " "V.H.Cocoa ! 5
Sold by cv < ry riroccr. in J
CUT THIS OUT
PainlessLess PainNo Pain.
The wonderful local nnnsthotlo used only by DR. BAILEY Is
relieving huntrods ) of people of the ngony usually existing In hav
ing tooth extracted. By the use of this hnrmloas drug tooth nro ox-
trnctod nbsolutoly without pain or clangor , the pntlont bolng por-
reotly conscious nil the tlmo , but the sensibility or the tissue nround
the plnco where applied bolng entirely gone. No extra ohnrge for
using this wonderful drug.
$5.00 ( PC nn
. cjb.UU ,
A Full Set of Five Dollars a
TEETH Sit
And a
ON RUJ3J3ER
Good Fit
For Five Dollars XS1 ' Every Time ,
. i . Tcl5l'f . ' VAl"nlt ! I'latos. lioinovublo HrldKOVnrlc nt prices little moro llinn for n rubbsrf
lilutu. ( lold Mllinirand all work pertaining to dentistry at lowest rales.
R. W. BAILvEiY , D. DS. .
OFFICES THIRD FLOOR PAXTON DL.OCK.
TELEPHONE , 1O88. 10TH nnd FARNAM STS. , Entrnnco on 10th.
The UNPRECEDENTED SUCCESS
that the
Behr Bros. & Go's. .
i
Hmo attained , and tlio lilh in-aho they Imvo clicilcil from ' ( ho world's MOST UK-
NONNii : ) ARTISTS , from tlio press and from n public lei : prcliiillcoil iu furor of
Itlur iimkps , It is snfo to assume that Ilia instrument must lie niissesse.l of TJNOOM
MON ATTRIBUTES.
ATTRIBUTES.MAX MEYER & BRO. CO. ,
Sole Agents , Omaha , Nebraska.
Established 1866 ,
NO GURRl NO "JPAY.
1316 Douglas Street , Omaha , Neb.
Many years' otpartonco. A rfgulnr uriulnnte In medicine u diplomat allow. Ii mill treating * Ith thi
Rrentcat success all Noi vous , Chronic and Private Dituaies. A perminont euro tfimrnntpoj fur Catarrh
Hporiuutnrrlioea , Lost Mnrinooit , Hcmlnal Woaknois , Nlt/lit I.ojncj , Imputencr , Syphllli , Blrlcturn. oml all
atieaias of tbo Illooil , Skin anil Urlimrr Umana. N 11. I uuarantr * J'OJ fur ciTcry cast ) I unclortako und fall
to euro. Consultation frco. Hook ( MyiOrloi of Life ) tmt frea. Olfloo hours U u. m. to U p. m. Sunday
ID Am. to Urn. Send stamp for replr.
CHICIIESTEH-S Lriouat. RED Cnoss
THE . OrilGIHALfitlD , GENUINE. The olllj WnrHun - . n.IrrfiH ( Pill for l.l . x
Ijl.llon . . , k rirucslil f > r CMclntrr I I'nyliift IIanon I llran < l In Itril f u.l . Col.J nirlalllo \
biilMilpl trllh Wiif rlliboJi Tc' 3 llu oilier 1.1ml. Krftut Aul li/Honj nmf / .
nmfmiladon.
. . . . , . , . . . . . -
ill rill. In pu'l.ho.rj bole. pin * nrapp.ri.ar .iHHjrcrou. ( .Miilcrd lln. At lru Bl l , c.r i-n tit
' . ) r-n.5t".7'"ir"r . ! ' . " . . " . ' " " ' . " , ' " ' " . ' ' " * ' ' " " "llt-ll < 'r < < " 1-iMllw. " In littir. hr rcliirn lUnlL
10.000 . . 'JiM. 7Vi r. . CHICHE8TEH CHEMICAL CO. , Mnll..n Hqnr
hjl.l br all t.ociil l > rugal l I'lllLAIIULI'lllA. VAV
dear boy , that I haven't been too iroo 1 In this
Itfo.
Consoling Friend Why I nm astonished to
henr you express nny such hope as that. Ky-
rlalu the tnuaulnff of It.
Siolt Fireman O well , I don't believe I'll
enjoy myself a bit In the next world if 1
didn't have n chance to run to a 11 ro now and
thon.
_
The 3Icaii old Tliin !
London Thoughts : Husband ( kindly )
My dear , you have nothing decent to wear ,
havo. you (
VVifo ( with alacrity ) No , indeed , I
haven't not a tl in ? . I'd be ashamed to bo
soon anywhere. My evening dress has b.nm
worn three times already.
Husband Yes. that's just what I told nil-
Islns when he offered mo two tickets for the
theater for tonight. I Icnovv if I took thorn
they'd only be wasted , so I just pot ono. You
won't mind ( f I hurry off.
( iuarilliit ; Against Corruption.
I'uck : AinldIf you please , Miss Wabash
of Chicago , has just , called.
Miss Atheiua Hnbbs ( of Boston ) Take
the parrot out of the room , Anastaslu.boforJ
you show her up. I do not wisti the bird to
acijuiro any piovincial expressions.
liy lie ; lililu't
York Weekly : Stranger You are
the only gentleman in the room.
liiiost In what way , fair !
Stranger When I tripped in the danconml
wont sprawling ou the lloor , tearing mv fair
partner's dross , you were the only ono in the
room who did not laugh
Ouost The lady is my wlfo and I paid for
the drosi.
Why Tlioy Don't Speak.
A bear in Arkansas was hugging n girl
numod Mary , when a girl named Julin shot
the bear dead. Mary was bo mad thnt sue
frothed at the mouth , and Julia and Mury
have , ,0t , spoken since. _
A I ' y ) ' Koad lo
Harper's Dazur. "My boy savs you hive
not taught him nny spelling' , " said Mr. Oai-
cake to the teacher.
"No. Wo only toaeh the girls spoiling. The
boys don't need it , because when they grow
up und go Into business they employ the girls
ns typewriters. _
An ! xporlnimiMl llitrjjlnr.
Good News ! Younij burglar Those
spoons ain't .silver. Tnoy uro the cheapest
kind o' Imitation.
Old burglar That's lucky.
"Lucky I"
"Yep. Take 'om along. "
" \Vhnt ferf"
"Tho leddy of the house will do nfoarcd tenet
net the dotoKtlvos urtor us , lust they nhould
Hnd them spoons uu1 doscriDo 'em in th'
papers. " _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
A Slid .MIiiiiHlor.stanillii' .
Mrs. Tniiglo Henry , you have boon imk-
ing presents to that girl you call your nm-
anuonsis. Don't try to deny it. I have
proof.
Mr. Tnnglo What proof , pray ?
Mrs , Tangle I found in your pocket rt bll (
for "ribbon lor type witter. "
llnfl'.v" C'lotlicH.
Tom nigboo - ' ! beg your pardon , Hoffy ,
but what In thunder's the matter with your
clothes I"
Hoffman Howes "Mv doah fellah , they
wore made on tlio ottm side , "
Tom Ulgbeo "Oh I then why not turn
them the other jlilii out ! "
A Mi'iiu v. oni in.
Lifai Comedian I'vo bad news for you ,
old man ; our loading lady , your wlfo , bus
elopi'il with the bill vostor. "
Manager Horrible ! How are wo over to
get lhat next town billed t S
\Vliore i ) Draw iho Line.
The Colonel You're a scoundrel , sal ) , of
tlio fiui watuh.
The Mulnh I scohn yo allegation , sab.
There U absolutely no connection between
mo an' watuh , sah. The scoundrel , snh , I
overlook. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Iis Cnpl Inry AUuinmunt.
Mrs. IJIoobumnor What long hair that
college urofojsor has.
IJloobumpor Yes , these are the Ynlo looks
you have hoard of.
Dr. Blrnoy ouron catarrh , lieu bldfj ,
VlGOR OF MEN
Easily , Qulokly , Permanently Restored.
IVuuliiieu , JViTvoii nm , Jlclilllly. and all
thu train of evils from uatlr orrunorlalor eicuuo ,
tbo ru > ulii nf orvmotk , > lckneM , worry , clc. full
alreiijtth , iluvelopmunt , and tone BlTun to crurr
onian and jwrtlun ol the body , blniplo , natural
ruttlKxl * . Jiniiiodlato liuproTomoDt PVVII. talluro
ItniioMlblo 2.UJU ruferencet. llook , eiplauallou *
and proofi tnallud denied ) free. Addrcua
ERIH MHDIOAL CO. , BUFFALO , II. Y.
MADAM ! ' ] A. RUPPERT SA'.S .
"A' ' ' la c.ia Imvo a perfect roiuplcxiou
1 the j of my Fuse
Madame A , Ruppeif s Face Bleach. .
Can bo used n life tlmu without harmful cf-
fuct , though this Is nut iiuucssuvy , as whim
the complexion his once boon cleared by It , It
i umtilns so.
Kiuulclux. moth , pimples , blackheads , Tx-
cosslvc rednuss or ( illness , and in fact all sklu
blumlahes .tioquluUly rnulliiiilcd by It.
11 d < > i'n mil talio a month , lint In a few duys
It will .show wimdurfnl Imiiruvcmiml.
One bottle , Mj or lliroo boltcs , for $ " . Hall
or sund Uo for book , "How to uu Ituaiitlf ill. "
MMB. A. RTJFPERT ,
6 East 14th S root , Now York.
I'oranlo In Oiutilm by my representative ,
MRS. J. BENSON ,
21O South 15th Street ,
OMAMA , NISB.
Wo Bent ] tlifl innrvolnun French I
Jtuimly CALTHOO frt-o , anil
iwul Huar < iiitiH > tlmtC'Ai.Tiuawlin
HTOP l > l dmrcM A Kmtolant , I
CIIUK Nnrrinutiirrliwi. VnrlciK-tlo I
und ItKHTIIIli : I.i t Vicar.
Use i ! anil fay ifialisftil.
AJIrni. VON MOHL CO. . I
Hall Imtrlua ifnt > , CUiilomll , Ublih
1 lura ii jioaitlvi ) rumixly I or tlio abimiillwaM ; liylla
ustitlioiiiiamUuf C&MS of the \vorftt kinil and cif luitif
eland mic have bran curvl. Indeed HO 5tronir U my faltli
lniUc ! cacy , Hut I Mill B.MidTMonorrl.m KiirK.wllh
a VALUAIILI ! TUKATIHK n thudlwawi timnymif.
fororwhu will send mothuir Kipruoand 1 * . O. adilrox.
T. A. Hlooum , .11. I ! . , 1BU 1'i-nrl HI. , .V. Y.
Oil , ' 1 * . t'I'MX i.oirKAIIICH iMlliSTA : ! <
VIIIAM : , uu JIAUIOAI. -
, ,
lniutlil'atcl w , llahhiiiiilblila
ovury blt-inlrh on
litaiity , anil dfttvt
ill tit Him. It liu
ituoil thu te.t OC 19
ems , and In so
ImiinitM ut U tilt
tuljufiimUU pie { > *
t > rly , tniiilu. Aittj/t
i > ri.iintrrriit ot
similar imiim. Ur.l
A , bnj r Mill ti ) n
lady ( tlinlinutluu
( | .ntl Mli "A yuu
MU'iwIllui 'tliein ,
I rirniiuiuitd ' ( jou-
rMtid'iiCicuin'Aiitliw
Iriithiumful otull
tlio > kln inl"ira-
tlon . " Kor ! < ) by
nil Piuuitliti oud
lunty 6ood > UvU-
. K ir * nc
H , I'lnn'r.SXl > ( J.mnl.l. N.Y
UNION DEPOT HOTEL.
Corner 10th and Mason titroets ,
Zi'ew building , now furniture , avoir tldtu tin
class ; Illicit locution In Iliu cltyi nil modurn lui
rrovumentst Utonm llenti llu.s ; Ou | | llalln Hath
and llnrber Hliup In fonneclluni KloClrla nnl Ctblu
Cnri to nny | > arto ( the city. Try ut nnd tia oon.
vlnci'd that wo have the Ixnl homo for thu nionvy
wml of I'lilcaKU. llutei from li.UO I u II , W pur d y
i miU tiaiCui < ' AcldrrktW.S.
I JAQULS.M.U lW. . till SI. , Ciudiuui >