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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (June 30, 1889)
-IT THE OMAHA DAIDY BEE : SUNDAY JUNE 30 , 1889.-SIXTEEN PAGES. INDUSTRY. Desirable Revolution in the Clothing1 Trade. WHITE SLAVERY ABOLISHED , The Foul Sweating System and Its New Rival , SOME SIGNS OF THE TIMES , vVhat "Wholesale Tailors" Means. A TAILOR SHOP EMPLOYING 2,000 , HANDS , Facts and Figures for the Million. Interesting Chapter About Gnnncnts A Mine of Inronnation on Men's Attire The Dlflcr.icoful Contract System Compared With iho Now Ilainano MotJipcls A Visit to KochcMor , tlio Clothing City Brnlns , lluninnlty nnclXJnpltnl Tlio LmruoRt anil most Coinploto Tailor Shop In the AVorld A. Nti lilo Strtio turo A Wontlurful Sysloin Happy Knililoyccs Triumphs of the Tntl _ or's Art Cheap Clothing Versus Clothing Chonp. "I.ct Uioso now dress irlio ncrcr dressed before , And these who drcascd now dress tUo more , " 1.-TJ1K NK\V ADVOCATION. OH a long time 1 have been collecting signs. Whenever I BOO one which strikes mo us odd , like Capt. Cuttlo. 1 "make a note of it. " The Hist one in my note book is "Cabt Iron Sinks. " a statement that eaems unnecessary to w ell Informed med people. It is fol lowed by one in wh'ch the public Is requested to ' 'Call aud Kxamlno Our Stock Before 1'urchas- Incelsowhoro , nudthatbyoneoircrlnsto"Hlack afour lloots Inside. " There is ono Philadelphia firm named "Mice & Uood , Sash and Door- ina'u-rs" aud a Chicago housu "SchwolUor tc Beer , I'nn : y Ooods. " And there la one said to be genuine as follows : "Freeman & llugcs , Select Bchool , Freeman Teaches the lloys and Huggs the Girls. " 7 Passing down Ilroadway the other day. In the neighborhood of llonil street , my attention was attracted by a very original sign at No. 053 , the wording thereon being * novel ono , uamel ; : TA'ILOHS. : "Custom tailors" was as famllar as the nose on my face ; "wholesale clothiers" as I well ; but "wholesalo tailors" seemed to be a now depar ture. The prospect of getting something now for my collection was to much for me , so I walked in and ncco&ted the llrst man I came across. "What nro 'wholesale tailors , ' and who are they , and why are they "wholesale tailor ? , ' and how many of them are there in the country , and how long have there boeq any here ; nud tell us all about it anyway ? " "Oontlyl Gently ! -Wholesale tailors1 are Blmply custom tillers on a largo scale. Our flrm la Stein , Uloch & Co. , of Rochester , 'whom not to know argues yourself unknown ; , we are wholesale tailors because wo ors not wholesale clothloro , in thoordlnarysonsoof the void. ami because we nro nothing vide but wholesale tail ors. Wo use tno expression 'wholesale tailors' because there U no other word to express our occupation , und wo have copyrighted it to dls- tlugush it and our productions from ordinary ready-mado clothing. Wo originated both the business methods and the business expression , and there is no other llrm in the world to which the term will apply. Wo muko up In enormous quantities fashiona ble apparel for gunllemsn , boy.s and children , following in every detail of inauufiicturo the methods and styles in , vogue among the lead * Ing flno custom tailors I of I'lflh avenue and Broadway rotognlzod | as the best In world and using tlio pamo substantial und undharTAU.OIIESSES. . tasteful fabrics undhar- monlous trimmings that they do ; but by our nuoiiualled nuuiufncturlng facilities und judic ious use of unlimited capital making the rest to the consumer almost as low as that of ordinary roady-madu clothing. Wo ar as particular to satisfy our million customers ai the high-toned tailor U to uloaso the most p irtlcular "iwell" on his list , The result of our skill , capital and careis clothing which any gentleman , however proclso or stylish a ilrossor , need not bo ashamed to wear on any occasion. Wo glvo everybody literal - oral "Jits , " no-matter what his size , shape or previous condition of servitude. As wholesale tullnrs we have no deslro to coin polo with whole * caludoIMm in the production of inferior work ; tint ! Is , of Inf orlor matorlaU cut by a careless and Inefficient njstem with the solo Idea of meeting a flctltloutly low price which reckless competition demands. Such work has to rco- corumend It nothing Tint tow first cost , rocom- moudatlon which soon loses Its effectiveness. It THK OLD WAY-WHITE BLAVBKY. "The ordinary nmdy-mado clothing sold by staring signs and lying display advertisements is tnado tip to sell cheaply ; thrown together slouchlly in tllthy tcnemcnt-housea under the sweating system of starvation wages for wo men and children ; a system which In a combin ation of unskilled labor and dlsoajo , and In which , ns the makers name never appears on , he garments or even on the tickets , the respon sibility for roor workmanship nnd baa mater ial can never bo fixed. Now , p r contra which Is a Latin exprenslon that I like to work In oc- caslonaly-Steln , nioch it Co's clothing Is made In the largest and cleanest tailor shop in the world and by tnoroughly experienced tailors under the Immediate supervision of the llrm. "Tho thoroughly American method of manu facture so well carried out by our house is In direct opposition to the sweating system which so dligrnccs this wonderful metropolis and Its boasted civltlznt'on. " Now , thoroughly Interested by my inform- ant's enthusiasm. I Inquired ; "What 1 $ this ' ( iwo.itlng system * bug-a-boo ? " " 1 don't ask you to toke my unsupported word for what seems as impossible as U Is dlugraco- ful. Here Is what thn Innpor.tor of factories of New YorK State says In his last olllcial report : OirnrttAIi CONDEMNATION. In NBW York City , In thu tenement-house dis tricts where clothing is manufactmod , there exists a system of labor which is as nearly akin to slavery as it is pos- lbo ! to got. The work Is done under the cyoj of taskmasters , who rent a nmall roomer or two In the rear part of an upper Iloor ot a high building , put In a few sewing machines , a stove suttahlo for heating Irons , and then hlro a numborof men nnd women to work for them. The"boss"or"swoatoi" as ho Is colloquially called , obtains from some wholesale clothing manufacturer a stock of ready-cut material from which to inako up coats , pantaloons , vests or other wearing apparel , and this is brought to WO11K 110031 NO. 4 STEIN , ULOCII & CO'fl VVnOLUSAIiIS TAILOll SHOP , KOCHESTEU the rented apartments. Men and women are then hired , the average number being about eight , nnd these go to work on the goods furnish ed. * * * They begin work usually at 0.3J in the morning and continue until 9 or lOo'clockut night , wlthprobnblva total of thirty minutes' intermission for the puiipso of eating. They ' usually eat and sleep In th'e same room where thu work Is carried on , and the dlnglnoss , squalor and lllth .surrounding them are abomiu- ablo. Tlibusaudsofyougglrlsboysnndwomen as well as men are subject to this life of dirt , drudgery and debasement from one end if the year to the other. Thoiolsnoray of hope for them. * * The tact that parents must sign and swear to a certificate ot the ago of their children gives us an excellent opportunity of beelugfnr ourselves tlio number of persons who are incompetent to even sign their own names. It is something ustoiibhlng aud hardly credible that a considerable portion of these pai cuts huvo been hero or were brought here at un early ago. Their children nio not much , if any b'ittor liiiesroct to education. "Oh , T don't bollove that oven the devil is as black as ho is painted. 1C the factory inspector specter didn't pile on the agony the people would think that there is no necessity tor un inspector specter , and he would lose his pluco. Whllo he is saying one word for the workers ho is putting in ten for the inspector of factories. I will just take oir about 75 and 10 andJ per cent , for cash on what ho says , and then It will probably bo about right. " "I suppose that you will believe the evidence of your own oyeat" "Sooner than anything el e. " "Will yon put on your hat and come with monet not very many blexis from wheio this streainof more or less well-drussed peopla Is making of Broadway the mostplcturesime and tascluatlug street on the face of this foot--itool ? " MAM'S 1N1IU.MA.N1TV 'JTO MAN , Following my guide , whose enthusiasm gei'ined Indeed burn of the truth , I peno- trnt'-d the purlieus of Ludlow and Hester streets , of which I had often heard but con cerning which 1 KUUW little except what might bo gained by a casual , disgusted gliuice. There 1 found a condition of curnxu noon , H.OOOsgu.uiu FEET STKII * . DLOCII &CO'H wnni.vBAi.ETAit.on SHOP. IIOOU MO. S-STKIN , ULOCII * CO.'dYIOUC3Ar.B ! TA1I.OH 6UIH1. things that b Rg rs description. Men , woman and children piled together In a squirming mass like maggots In a cheese , tnnolsomo quar * tors , not only In broken-backed attic * , but in damp and rocking cellars ; lap-boa/d.1 , tablet , sowing-machines , stoves for heating tholr Irons , all Intermtngled with n mass ot what might pass for humanity In those days of boasted progress ; women nursing Rqnalld babes at poor , lean breasts In full sight ot their fellow slaves of the other sex , who were dressed with but little regard for decency , In but two garments an undershirt nnd trousers and those foul withprosplratlon and other dirt , and Ill-fastened ; some eating off tholr machine tables , others preparing or boating tholr mis erable noonday inoal over the gai-ovolving stoves , which served to heat tholr pressing irons. From 0 in the morning , often to 13 a' night , tlioso whlto slaves of the ncedlo Jnnd nbcars tolled in these grimy , stilling quarters In this dogardcd way in order to keep their mis erable bodies and tholr ill-carodfor souls to * gather. They wcra not "butchered to make a Uoman holiday , " but starved nnd ground down to help adorn nn American imday or an American week-tlay. Health , comfort , what ot tjibso coutd there bo ? Morality ? Need wo expect itj Intelli gence ? There is none displayed. They are boasts ot fonl burden , with unceasing hours of pitiable toll , which they mav not change , fortlioy know but the ono trado--aud do not oven w oil know that , * lint I was resolved , sickening though the do- bills wrc , to probe the mutter to the bottom ; no , Directing Incredulity as to tills bolng a com mon thing , 1 said. "Oil , well , these puoplo would have boon oven WOHO oil in tbo other country. " "Do you think such n thing possiole1 "And In Ihoso quarters whe.ro no civil- zed bolng over gets unless ho is huntIng - Ing a criminal , wo may expect tolliul dlsgr.uo- f ill things. The system at least keeps them to gether and prevents this class from degrading our American woik people. They stay in their own district. " "Do they ? Well. Broadway itself Is Just as full of them. It IB not only the ratttotrap , shan * ties and tumble-down rookeries which have such sights and sounds. . 1 can take you to great iron -fronted buildings of our main artery of t ruvol , whcro thosumo thing is to bo found. " THE SICKKNINO rnoor.r Well , within a blosk of the Qr.xnd Central hotel T found the same thing pinctically re peated. While my guido had been careful to "naught extenuate , " ho had been equally just In that ho had not set down "aught In mallco. " In a room forty by Ilft\ ' feet I found 30J people worKlng just as I had found them In East liroadway the same. , sickening scenes. , 'the Pamo sad sounds of hollow cough and unintelli gent nnd infrequent speech , and the same piles of clothing , reeking with the pestlleuci despite their gaudy linings. As we returned to the "wholesale tailors' " store on liroadway I lesumcd my questioning- far loss conlldent at heart , but determined to show by no word or look thqt T was convinced. "Woll , it is voty probably 'Sitnn reproving sin. ' Very llkoly. If the truth wore known , your clothes arc made In just about ther same way , by just about the same grade of people ; only you have the advantage over your rivals that j-onr factorr Is 403 miles away from th'e center of trade unft cannot so readily be inspected ; audit takes a few more rcntK a week to keep life In tlioil ) toilers hero than in thpse- who sweat their lives out for you in l.ochester If jou really make your clothes there. " This was gull and bitterness to my friend. TUB CHALU.NGI ; , "Goto Rochester in the vo.y next train if you wish. Abk anyjnnn , boy or child upon the street to direct you To Stein , Uloch & . Co.'s fac tory. Announce yourtolf us from the World , or not. Just as you please , fctuto that you aie collecting information about the sweating sys tem or. If It suits you better , do not say so. Go through the factory from cellar to roof. Pick up any garment you please , in any work-room , aud e.\amluo It. Inquire of any workman or workwoman ( there are not so many of the litter - tor In proportion as there is in New York , they stay at homo and attend to tholr little houses ) as to his or her condition and that of his or her fellows. A.k anybody lnany _ street In the city if Btuin , nioch Ac Co.'s pi'o'plo are not to bj en vied ; and If the way they Are treated is not el evating the condition of every working person in the town , no matter what his or her occupa tion. If you do not , ot your own free will , ac knowledge that e\orythlng tliat fhave said Is true aud correct , down to the last lota , wo will footjourbllls. " "A very neut bluff , young man ; but as I was burn on tin * uppur Mississippi whvre bluffs aie auovuryday feature ot the landscape , I will Just take you up. " And fie 1 w eiit home , got my supper , took a spare collar etc. , nnd embarked in thoti p. m , tiuln tor the Clothing City. Jll.-IIOCIlliSTKrt. THK CLOTHING CITY. 1 found a Rupert ) city of IDO.tOO inhabitants a beautiful but busliioss-llku place , with wide streets , palatial icstilenced , co-ty cottages , Im- poslrg factories , tine towering commercial ca- tublloliments , Immense hotels , unequalled rail road facilities , an enviable wuterpowor , bus'l- ing citizens , commodious w-liools , numerous chinches , charming drives nnd n go teral air ot go aheadltlYcnessimd prosperity , After a comfortable breakfast at the magnltl- cent Jlto proof I'ouers hotul , I inquired of a btuet urchin ; "Sonny , can yon toll me where Stein , Uloch & Co.'s factory is ? " "Can I tell you where Ilochcster is ? " said the youngster sfirciuticully. Go along up the main tared four blocks until you coma to Norjh Bt. 1'ftul street , and turn to your left until .you come to the finest building on the street , It's on the right hand sldu and you will know it by it J not huTlng any Mgn on to toll you what U la. If you forget what I'm u-tolllng you , use any body you see. " Now this , be It remembered , was In a rlty which was full of giant clothing factories ( 'meaning giant manufactures of clothing , not factorial where they wakot'anueiHs for gjanta ) . , i * T * " * * -T * " Jf vtKw stum. ULOCII & co's WHOLESALE TAiJ.ou SHOP , itociirsTon. IV.--A PA LACK OK INDUSTRY. 1 came to one of the llnost business Weeks in ho United States , n noble pllo , s olid ami last e- ill : Romanesque In Its principal ten Inter , with the lower stories carried on plow of Scotch rod * stone , with nnoljr carved capital * supporting girders or the anmo. Above , u simple plor anil girder construction of moultlod and glazed bricks of dark red , brown and chocolate , with ornaiuentod string courses und panels. Ariived at the factory ( the undoubted gen eral public acquaintance with which I fully tested on the way over ) 'Iaa most courteously ri'colvod ; then I announced tny deslro to i < o throughtho factory for the purpose of compar ing It with others In which I had boon. I was told that I might go through alone If I pro- foired , or n young man , familiar with details , would be assigned ns my guide , or 1C I would take my chances the members of the llrm and heads of departments would puss ino from one to the others. 1 ihose the lattor.and with the senior member of the llrm staitod out on that tour of Inspec tion w hlch I lull certain as soon as I entered the handsome portut , Wns sV > piovo wo a false prophet. , i'M.- " . \re you much bothefced , with visitors ? " "We have a great maiiy , but don't consider them a bother. Wo utVbioud otthofact that people consider our establishment worthy of a Visit. " > V ! "Who planned this slru ljuro ? " was almost my first question. n | " 1 he interior was plMulqJ by the members of the llrm to that every tiriuccessaiy stop should bo spared and that ororythiu ; should be Jmt in the right place. The rimitlou , size and general character of each department and loom being ML'ttled upon , ami the wjfple combined Into H harmonious entirely , thq services of a capable architect , Mr. diaries 3.IKllls , wore called Into pi 15-to work up thu puiwly tcchulral details of construction. And yij\samo with the ex- torlor : the members ortho llrm decided upon exnctly whntthoy wltliM and had the niclil- toot elubuinte the detulUJfor tie | builders to work froiii , " . . _ _ "How largo is thopn-.SRUt bulldlne ? " "tmr lot Is : y x il feetHnU the building covers IXMxMJ feet , coiliprimwexslx Htorius. each or which. UB well us theibjuinnont.'jls of the lull slze.of the bullalng , ito that tliorO aio devoted to the purposes of manufacture , accounting mid sale a Iloor.space of about WJ.ittJ siuare feet , or about two and n half aircs , every porf.on of vhlch , as you will see , is , iiot only well lighted from vlthour"but is In addition liber ally supplied with incandescent electric lights. "How many hands'can you work heroV" "Jhe building has capacity for L'.OUO employ ees , outside of tno counting room. " "Any outside bands or homo workers ? " "No ; practically all the work Is done on the premises , " A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT. Oulded by one of the flrm I went nil over the great bullalng , in tno order in which the goods KO In b6liig received , stored , imulo up and shipped , and I quote his running comments I "Youwill see,1 'saidmy gu'.de , "that there Is I every little distance on tha-n all of each room , a hose all ruady to be pulled out and put In ' aorvlcc. Ilucli hose is attached to [ itspcci.il lire service piies ) that are used for no other purpose and which nro supplied by a tire pump driven by an electric motor , and which can tnrowKi' ) gallons u mlnuto , bollmt we make assurance doubly sure. Wo uro not running any risks. Our business is too well fbtabllshed to make burning out desirable or prolltablo. " "Kvery part of the establishment Is In con nection with every otlier department by a new system of electric and acpubtlc inter-communi cation. "The sanitary appliances on every floor for the use of employees nro commodious , conve nient and tnoruugh In every particular , offer ing a marked contrast with thu usage in other establishments and ovindug on the part of the llrm a wntliful interest in the health ana welfare - faro of their employees , from the highest to the least important. "No uulldlnglnthecpuutry Is more liberally supplied w ithmcandoacont ole < ; trlc llghts.thoro being no less than six hundred sockets , and pendant lamps , whlc'i will thoroughly Illumi nate every portion of th floor spuco ; ana any pnson stundmg in any part of any room at u.ght would be able to reach out and find a lamp within arm's length , " \\e have our own oleotrlcplautbulltby the Sprague Klectric Motor Comp my. New i'ork. nud generate our own electricity for powernnd light. Uv eiy much no of thu imiuy In the place is driven by the aama.lnvls ble run-out which FUnpllcs the artlllclal light in dark and rulny weather : for on auy fair dity when It is light enough to sou one of doors , tlioruls in uuy part or this well illuminated establishment , sulli- cluit davllght to work by , ' I want to Impress upon you , " said my con ductor , "that all tlu-se Improvements and con veniences nrn simply to suvo time not to gratify a whim , however laudable It might be , of hav ing the most ccmploto and convenient estab lishment of the kind in the world. Wlmte\er can bj provided to save time and expense , has bon put in , no matter at what cost , jot time is itn Important factor in this bUHlncss. where or- dms are often received at I in thu niternoon for goods to bo on a train which atarls at 8 that sainu evening. . "A most admirable pleco of brag ! Worthy of Ilnrnuml llemlnds meof thelirm whiclmald that it saved 81,000 u yunr in lulculone by order ing its dorks uover ti cross a t nor dot an 1. " "well , truth ii sometimes itranger than fic tion. On one occasion a few weeks ao u tales- man took at 4 o'clock on Thursday evening , from a New Vork house , an order amounting to &MOOfconditioned ) on 'Hibelng ( tilled wltlitn twenty-four hours. Our ulnck was so large ana our fa.l'ltlcs to perfect ' 3:1.1 : ! all the goods wtiro on the train at U that ovbmng and for sale on thu New York counters { .itftfnext morning at U V.-STEIN , IILOC'H if CO. 8 WAV , "The piece goods are itiellvered In the rear of the building. First , goln" to the cellar , where they me cpjued and accounted for , they are next taken to the pieciug oiH Htoric rooms on the third ana fourth llow& whore wo will now go. " sroxniNa uoou. In reply to a query my conductor paid ; "While wo use u largoquantity of Imported Kooju'lu dno work , we take thu very Ion of the product of all the leading Amorlcin mills , unit tuo same with trimmings as with woolen i. U Is our policy to usi in every departmantuone but strictly all-wool goods , so Hut the label of tsti-ln. lllbch d : Co. will be a guarantee that all Is wool. We ere proud to b > able to uy with truth that our label upon a suit of clothes or an arti.le of clothing ban the enmu guarantees to its superlative excellence and worth as the notnoof Jurgenten haa upon u wateh or Steinway - way upjn u piano , It means that the articles to wlilchJt isatlixed are of the very bent whluh cnn bo produced at auy price , and that every pains his Veen taken tnut the htatoof the art calls fet or will admit. If you or any one can show ns how to mnko our garments better , wo \\Tint to Know it aud will do it. "lly reason of our immense purchases wo ob- tnln pleco goods wLl-li are absolutely not pur- chasabln clsowhem , Bometluies. whole the cloth and style come up to the buyer's judg ment , and here the exclusive use of the pat tern cm bo guaranteed , wo take the entire pro duction ot the mill , nnd tlio Jinn actually does control the proiluct of aovoral domestic mills , thereby owning piece gocds at less tban the average manufacturer can buy them for. "Whenroiulred , they aiotalon to the exam ining iiiul pponglng 10 nn , on the third loDr. lluro every yard ot goods pas'PS over n frame InfullRunllL-ht , and any faultn that may f-xlst , as picks , holes , dtlleronces in shade , defects of color or weave , are noted by the expert eye ot the trained examiner. Should faults exist the goods arA at oiico returned to the maker" , for imder no circumstances aio any Imperfect goods worked m > . "A ftcr'thorouuh examination the goods nro sent to the sponglng.room , whore , on machines of the lutes ! npprovod pattoins , they rocelvo the steaming iietcssaiy IT shrink them perma nently , rendering uuy future shrinkage abso lutely Impossible. "Aro the goods now ready to bo rut into ? " " I - there must have been "Yes ; but oro-o pro paicdby tlie membo'H of the tlrm now , orlgln.U and appropriate designs which will Hilt tbo popular taste. Ilia drs gns having bjen prepared - pared so Hint thcioshall b. harmony in oiit'lr.o ' and in color , the trimmer steps in with a so'o- Uon wh'ch will harmonica with the cloth. Then ihe standurd patterns nro cut nnd others made therefrom. The original putterns are kept in a lire-proof vault , so tnat In case of any accident to the working patterns they could bo at once replaced and the work go on with but a few minutes Interruption. The patterns are made up new twice every year , ' The trimmings nro cut ready for use with the piece goods , this part of tho"work being \orylurgelybymachineiy , special care be- ilia taken that the trimmings for each kind nud color of goods shall be appropriate us well as haninoine. * " QUILT KLP.QANCB. 'Ilather quiet styles of linings , ntelil icn/ir / ? " "Well , you see wo are not making 'hana-mo- downs' Wo wish to attract attention to the quality of the goods. If \\owcretomakothem of loud colors the quality might bo passed by. As It is , the absolute linoness aud richnots of the ma terial challenges Inspect ion ; nnd that is "half the inle. Now , in ordinary ready - made clothing work there nro three col ors of linings used for TAILOII. each class of goods irres pective of whether they go well with the body fabric or not ; they are loud nnd flashy , and sel dom and then only by accident harmonize with the gocds with which they nro ubsombled. Hut as wearo wholesale tailors and not whole sale clothiers , we are Blmply doing fashionable tailor work oh a luree scale. "As all our trimmings nro made to our order and to match the goods , the clothing made by us is in fact in Dctter taste throughout than cau be had from nice custom tailors out of ten , because uono of these custom tailors coir-h.ivo nil their linings , facings , buttons and other trimmings made especially to mutch the cloth with which they uro used , Kurther.no custom tailor , howorer important , can ufford to carry such an immense \ nriuty ns wo are compelled to do by reabon of our tacit agreement to Bell no two dealers In any town the same patterns. "Wo now goto the cutting-room , where the real urtlhts of the tailoring trade nro to bo found. In the busy season we employ ninety , ns skilled und experienced as money can get. they have 14,000 square feet of Iloor space , u llfteen foot celling und windows on every Mde. "Tho goods having neon cut and assembled with the proper tasteful trimmings , go to the workrooms ou the llrst and second floors , where every other operation Is performed to make them completed garments. These immense tailor shops ilvo w orVlug place for TOU hands , and that tlioso nro not crowded Is shown by the fact that they have for tholr accommodation S7.000 squnrei foot ot Iloor space , whllo the cell- lug height is fifteen feet. "Jn tno stock-rooms for made-np goods there Is In a SPACO UIx'JW feet about SMO.COJ worth of finished gooilsawaiting shipment. Tlie sample rooms are admirably arranged for the recaption seloctlon-and display of the garments , every fa cility in the wayof tables , rucks aud the like beIng - Ing allorded , nnd the llr-ht which streams In from tlie front of the building offering full op portunity for the display of artistic beauty pr the detection of possible defects. " "You do not se m much afraid of light ? " "No why .should woWo want all the light that can by got thrown on our work and our methods. If there Is anything wroijg wo wish to know it ; and what theio Is. good wo want our customers to know. We have let In all thu sunlight that it Is feasi ble to provide ( you can't make u building nil windows dews , yon know , espe cially when you curry us heavy stock as wo uo of such heavy goods as clothing ) , and there is elect Uo light enough in thlsroom to tun your skin ( or trecklo it it you ar built tliut way ) asthorouglily ns tuoughyou were In " the uilddlo of tlie street on a bright dny , " It is evident that nil through the work of do Hlgn uud manufacture a must mechanical and a utmost care Is exercised to prodnco the very best oITrct by Iho best material And workman * ship , for intUnce , every ImttauhoU in thn rKtabllxhment Is made br hand. Takn this ono" ( handing m * garment ) ' -and compare the but tonhole * ) with those In that rosily tine coat you have on. Is yours as good ? " I had to admit that the "rofuly-mrule" button * hole was the best. 'There is no wholesale clothier In tlio country who puts hnnd-madn buttonholes on nil his work , ns the better grndo of custom tailors do. Kvory pocket U doublet stayed ; er ry button sowrd on firmly and the namu nttontlon paid to the hidden Insfdo work os to that which shows. There Is none of the pnlclilnp : and piecing so oftousconlnrvady-mndo clothing , Every gar ment * s cut from whole oloth , as with custom- made work. "Th garments madohore have no 'padding' put into thnm. 7hi\y \ arc made to fit fir proper1 design , propcrcnttlm * and proper putting to gether , so that no pnildlng Is necessary : lu con * nequen c of which they nut only tit at first , bnt retain tlielr shape , which cannot bo said of padded clothes. In all the btMn. Illocli .V Co. garments nil thn raw rdgcs ot thn goods are overcast , this tteltiR done by n special mnrhtnn , which is the only on in this country wnlch will do this work. All the tnnihors. pockets nro ovejcast ns well. Kvonln the matter of the thread useil for sowing , wo use nothing but the product of the Leonard Silk company. Ware * housu Point , Conn , uelLoveing it to bo the best in ml c , RO thnt every foam is strong , nont anil unrablo ; every button is liaim-mndn and is sewed on , lomido.land fastoued with as much care as though tbo entire comfort and success of the guriiunt depended upon tlio button stay * Ins. " The pirts are made by journeymen tailors , juxtasthougli they were beingmndo Inn cus * loin tailor's siiop. 'iho establishment of Stoln , Dloch & Co , iBln fact nn immense custom tall- or'H shop employing 700 journeymen instead of from tw o to n tcoro. There seems to bo no detail w hlrh Is consider * odpo trilling as to bo slighted. The llrm evi dently beai-H in mind the remark ot .Michael Ango o , who , when tisked why lie spout somnrli tlmoupon trlllcsln llnlslnn a statue , replied ; "Irlllosmnko perfection , and perfection Is no tritlo. " lu fuel , careful attention to detail has made Stein , Uloch A Co.garments they aio lip proof , tearpi oof and practically wear proof. Any ono can find in ordinary garments slusof omUHlon and commission. Hut nptlai lmri > It npocl * . , 1 wean , Tu * eu vrlinl U nut to lioiu'en. TUB L.uion rnom.KM BQLVKD. "Do you have any trouble In connection with the no called labor pioblomV" "No ; wo do not , never did have nnd neverux- pect to hnvo. Wo were the ttrst voluntarily to introduce the nine-hour qystem , which is ox * tcudadnot only to our men , but to every woman nnd child. There has never been any troubla batwean us and our employees , the latter being too well contented with the wnpes which they earn and the treatment which they receive to permit themselves to consider their own inter * i-stsaslunnv way contllcttng with those ot tholr employers. 3hey know whan they are well off. Tnoy aio practically participant- our profits , without running any risks on collec tions. Many of thorn have been with us for nearly n quarter of a contury. HEALTHY AND PltOHPEllOUR XMTLOrKBS. "Wo employ the best lul.or that can be had. nnd retain it year lu nnd year out to do the best work that skill nndexperience cnn produce. No ono is engi.gml by the place nor oven by Iho week only , nnd this being the CUSP , no workman hasuny ifc.ison for hurrying through unuecos- sarllvnor for hastening work to Us detriment us though ho were working by piecework : his only incitement is to do the lt ) > bt workthat can 1m ( lone , and to do It us rapidly as perfection In work will permit. These are his pa-sports to permanent employment. A careless man would 'get the bounce' lu short order. A good ono Is encouraged und never has un Idle day. y this system each workman gets morn for his vcar's Work thin if ho were employed in Now York at u high price during the. uusy ocason , nnd by living In Hoche.stur , which Is preeminently nently nclty of dweUlngs.nnd nuvlnnstendycm- pi Dymcnt the year round , ho is cunblcd to make for himself n hftmo. Doing thus n llxture. ho cnn do Stein , Uloch k Co.'s work bettor than a raw recruit could , and wo lese uo time and mn- tcrlal breaking in now hands all the tlmo. Then , too , each w ortmun lonrns to do ono thing perfectly nnd rapidly , and this Is better than having a man do one kind of work ono day and another kind each day during the busy season. " P M 6A IPK ItOOJI STEtN , nf.OCII & CO.'S WIlOLtSALE TAILOll SHOT. ' "Tako It all In all. wo are not on much philan thropists as you might think. Wo arn business men , not in trade for our health nor to reform humanity. Wo i-oe that by making certain arti cles bettor than any one else over has mudo them wo can keep ahead of the trade , and Keep on making thorn better than any ono else does or will. 1-ach man who wears ono ot our gar ments tells his neighbors how well satisfied lie Is , mid each workman Is on the qul vlve to sue that every ono about the place gives a full day's work for his full day's pay. " Moit of thobe engaged in making up tlio clothing are men , women being employed only as operators on the .nactilnvs and for thollghter k'nils of btltrhlng. All look healthy , comforta ble nnd contontud. The accompamlngskutrhos of a tailor , a prt scr nud two tallorcsses aie from photographs taken in the shops during working hours , "You seem to have rather a nlco lot of glrlsV. "Wo ought to havo. Not only would wo promptly discharge any girl whom wo thought would provu an undeMrablo asboclato for the others , but wo are caruful about the mon with whom they are brought In contact. A man of drunken habits or Immoral tundunclos would get his tlrket-ot-leuvo tlio moment that wo tounil him out so quick that lily head would HV , ini. Thu conseqeuco Is that there ih no tlmn wasted in business hours , and that careful mothers have no hesitancy in letting tholr daughters w ork hero. Tims , by starting w 1th a goodgrndo of employees , wo mo constantly raining tlio standard. We have the most iiitell- goutaud com-ciuncUoub employes In the trade. " VI.-THEDOLLAHSAND SENBU OPJT. The casual reader in I slit think that because of thoc.-.ro taken In manufacturing , the costwould bo excessively high , but this Is not tlio cnne. llenvv rnnli purchases , immense und utrndy output , willingness lobe content with a 8mull margin of prollt , thorough knowledge of thu business , systematic economy in every detail of PAUT or OFKICE ri.ooii Slum , nr.ocii & co.'a WIIOMSSAI.K TAII.OII siror. most artistic eye , and one which is vlglHut aud keen as well , is ever watchful to buggun beau * ties and to detect any departure from perfect harmony und perfect work , I was atlreeablr surprised to see in the stock * room ii'any suits Intended to retail at Horn 813 to IH just as well made and well llnlshod us the tine grade suits. Oue&tionlng Mr , Bteln aa to this , he Mild that the hands did not know how to do slop-shop work and would not bo allow ed to do aa e vuu If they did. They are pnt at the medium grade goods when not busy on the lilRhor ( iiiulliiuu , thus konplna them buiy thu year round und ot course enabling the con of all to b9 kept low. "Iaev ry little detail , " eald my guide , "the manufacture enable Htoln. Illocli Si Co. , to com pete with makers of Infurlor goods. Their gar * mants are bettor inonuy's worth than any othur ; nnJfnrtlier , they always lead in style , us I found on looking into the matter tlior * oughly. Asking my conductor about this point ho replica u > follows : NOVtr.TlKS AND BI'KCIALTIES , "Our Brm is esjontlally nnd especially a nov elty house. con.stnntlT originating now Btyles , some of which nave become very popubtr In un lucredltablyahort space of time and , of course have found tholr imperfect imitators. As nn example , take the case of the 'Josot Hofinann' boys' milt , so familiar to every lover of miielc the country over ; nrut.by iua.son ot It having beeu worn by tlie numlcaf protllzy , to whom it was dedicated , and , saconU , by Its Imvliitf been worn by 10 many bright And well dressed boy , in cvcry state In the union. Tnd time ha * gen by when a boy'Htrousers were built upon the rovorslblo pnuclplo. no that lie never knew whether hn was going to fchool or comlnp front It ; and , owing tottio nrtlstlo nrodurtlons of tUU firm , no mother will now ntnko the boj * ' trtns < on with straight logs so that whenthe knee is worn the lost * ran bo cut off and turned halt way around to present a now wearing surface , The mothers and the children themnelvei are now more exacting tlum the grown people. "Tlio garments produced by us In quantities are often purclinxod by merchant tailors nna sold as custom work. In proof that they nro cut nnd made uixsn the cnslom work system the now label recently adopted therefor , frlvoi Iho oxnet measures or HIP parmenttln nv < ry par ticular. No mere holpxalo clothiers ran do tills , because thotr garments nro neither cut upon any Mich system nor put together bjr workmen who would bo capable ot preserving thu accurnta dimensions , oven w tro tlicyfct aitca out with originally. " The extraordinary economy effected In pur * dinning the entire absence ot wastoof time nnd material In manufacture , the great cam that Is exercised throughout the ontlro process of pro * flnctlnn , the skill brought to boar upon every dotullnnd the utiMirpasiwd and ovcnuncqtialloii facilities olthn ilrmlnororyappartnioiit of pro duction , distribution nnd sale , are livlnif nilver * tlsnments ot the buMness and in the hluuvst do- irr < ptrnde.mak ( > rs for tlioso who tntrchnsd ot tlu'sa consulentiouH wholenalo tailor * to aoll again. The business of this concern roochei well Into the millions yearly , aud its garments are to bo found exposed for sl In Ilr-tl-ola.s3 houses from Main * to thoColdiMi ate and from the St. Lnw- once In the ( lult of Mexico. An wholes ilo tall * orsStoln , Uloch .V Co , lay their claim for publlo appiDelation and pntronagn tiiion tlio actual merit of tholr goods. It Is tuey who have ralsi-d the standard of clothing in this country , and they who have won ttie world-wide ropttta * tlon which they enjoy for Hue work and durabla garment s , TIIR WO1IU ) TllKlll HfsMe * the mammoth and unrivalled estab lishment In Itocluster , Messrs. Stein , Dlocn A Ilo , lm\o permanent representatives at No. 0.18 llroadwny. Now York , where I \ > ns llrst at * tra ( ted by their novel nnd appropriate title ol "wholesiilfl ttillors"ntthe Hotel ; Unlteil tales , I test on ; I'nlmcr House , Chlqago ; Windsor Hotel , Denver , und at Nos. I' ) aud IS Sansomo street , an I nuiclsco this latter honso selling alrocttn Honolulu. Sandwich Islands. In parting and expressing mv ontlro satisfac tion with wfiat 1 had seiu. the head of the firm s ld : "We want to Impress upon yon thn fact thai many wholesale clothlera cater to thodomnnd of same unprincipled retailers for cheap showy sluir. Xuoy don't Usu the iiiakor'x naino , ami Ii8 cousoquDutly euros notlilne for his reputation. NEW YOHK IIOUSK , CM BROADWAY. Now , on the other hand , our label appears on i every garment wo inftiiufacturo , and wo make tmc- our goods so well that tno man or boy who wears ouo suit with our label always gota an * other it ho can. now UK CAN. "Tlio way to got Stein , Illoh & Co.'s gari monts Is to ask for them , If too retail clothier lias not tnem on hand ho can get them very readily. Hocangot ona suit Just us cheaply us thouEh ho wore buying foityor ono hundred , It he refuses , all the customer has to do is to wrltoto Stjln , Dloch & Co. , Uochoitor , and they will toll him where ho can get them In his town. Wo will not sell to the consumer , but will to the retailer , and will take Just us much pains to ill ! nn order for ono suit asked for in this way as though It were a heavy sale. Wo want to build up just that class ot tiado in every town ou tweeuthotwo oceans. " * I AND JIEASUItlNfJ 11OOM. "lint , getting down to tlie dollars as well as the sense of it. Is ill ere any money in it for me , and for Tnomus , and Illchard , and Henry buy * n g your suits in preference to any.others ? " "Yes. every time. Second-rate goods are dear at any piles , Tlio Bteln , Jlloch k Co , narmnnts are chenp at tlio price nt which they are retailed. Our suits and overcoat * that retail ut from ' eir > , ( K ) to JM.liOcomparo favorably with the HUfst 'W metchnnt tailors' woik costing from 413,00 to IM.IO , the fabrics balug Identically the r'W Wo make none but the best , und put on every garment this label , which is an absolute AMUIV urico ot the very best quality , workmanship " nndbtylo. ' 1 Din ner-tlmo having arrived , I accepted the in * vlUtlon of the meinutra of the llrm to dlnoat their club , whote I met und formodtliB no * quuintRiiro of many of Itw.hubfer'a bolt , known and most solid citizens. Ti aln time Hhorleneil my visit. Die pleasant and profitable memory of wlilcli will vverra' main irrren lu tuy recollection of lloclntjtur , ( .New York World , Juno Wd.