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About Hesperian student / (Lincoln [Neb.]) 1872-1885 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 1, 1878)
I -,! NO. 8. NEOKWEAIt. 462 goncrnl stylo and cut it to thoir own fancy. You limy itsk for tlio " Comfort" or the " Jefferson", but you will get the same thing. Of the two sub-divisions, upright and rolling, or, in the words of tlio day, " stand-up" and " lay down," the upright is by far the most popular and nine tenths of the collars in this country are made on that plan. How long the fashion will live, nobody knows, until our leading beaux become Byronical I suppose. A rolling collar is generally associated with strength and resolution, while a stand-up indicates quickness and agility. The hard working man wears no collar; it chafes and hinders him; it is too tight, it does not give him air enough. On Sundays when he does wear his collar it is much like putting him in the pillory. Ik is still', constrained, and does not seem nor act his natural self. There is a great difference noticeable in the manner of wearing both styles of col lars. The man who wears a turnover naturally, will give it a gentle roll in front which makes it fit more becomingly and shapes it to his neck. The glacier like stiffness which chan.ctcri.cs the appearance of many turnover collars, especially paper, does not lend tlio wearer a sociable appearance. The points of all these collars should never show, but present a harmonious appear ance, and be long enough to be hidden under the vest lapels. An upright collar presents greater vari ety from which to choose, and tho extrem ities of taste and fashion allow great li cense in their size and shape. A collar, to look handsome and refined should only be slightly bent in front; though tastes differ in this- regard. T o much neck display, on man, is vulgar, and collars whose points are but little over two inches apart in front are always the most tasteful, and should not be over three fourths of an inch above the coat collar behind. Some styles are made with points to turn back over the shoulders, but these are fast leaving us. They aro moro affected in tho East than in the West. Round cornered collars are generally indicative of an easy, luxurious disposi tion, whether worn by men who can afford what they ape, or not. A collar of tho same height around is the neatest, though one higher in front than behind is tho most dressy. The cut ot the neck of tho shirt affects greatly the perfect fit of a collar; it should be cut lower in front than behind to give the collar u gentle slope in agreement with the shoulders (a collar without any band behind Ills the most snugly;) ft should be large enough to give fair play for the neck and its bur den the head, though never larger in cir cumference thn the collar itself; and tho button should always be sewed on tight, for who has not had the delightful exper ience of twisting off a collar button when dressing in a hurry ? Few things in batchelor or domestic life, are moro ag. gravating. A tasteful necktie sets off a collar won derlully. Its absence gives a half dressed appearance, though its presence, if unbe coming or slovenly, is almost as unsatis tactory. Ties and bands are best with " stand-ups," and scarfs and bows with " turn-downs," and great taato can bo dis played in the selection and adjustment of these small articles of dress. Whore woman can wear a hundred diilereut colors, man is left only the necktie on which to use his fancy. His other dress must always be of a sombre hue. Beau Brummcl was onco asked how he sue cceded in making such an admirable tie. "I devote my entire time to it, sir!" ho answered. Thousands have strangled themselves in trying to imitate the "Beau." A few years ago the white tie was worn only witli dress suits to balls and cere monies, but it has been sadly commuuized and is now a part of tho daily dress, pro ducing a cool and neat appearance at all times. Embroidered and silk tics of white and cream are now in style for thoso who can afford them.