PAID ADVERTISEMENT
HOW TO BUY A DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING
WITH CONFIDENCE AND KNOWLEDGE
By John Tavlin, President
Nebraska Diamond
At Nebraska Diamond we have perfect
ed the Art of making the purchase of
engagement and wedding rings easy, com
fortable and fun. Over the years our most
important business has beat producing
tens of thousands of happy, satisfied cus
tomers, (me at a time. A major reason for
our success is the heavy emphasis we give
to providing consumers with the informa
tion they need to buy a diamond engage
ment ring with confidence and knowledge.
UNDERSTANDING CLARITY, COLOR
& CARAT WEIGHT
Serious shopping for diamonds begins
with an understanding of the Gemological
Institute of America (GIA) and its diamond
grading terminology.. The GIA is a non
profit organization dedicated primarily to
the pursuit of gemological education. The
GIA is considered by the diamond industry
to be the final and most authoritative word
on diamond grading standards and its dia
mond grading terminology is, by far, the
dominant terminology used by diamond
cutting firms and jewelry manufacturers
throughout die work! today.
GIA diamond grading terminology
describes the clarity and color of diamonds.
The GIA clarity terminology classifies dia
monds based on the number, size, location
and description of markings which may be
present in or on the diamond. These mark
ings range in size from pinpoints so tiny thai
they can barely be seen under magnification
to markings which are large enough to be
seen with the naked eye. The GIA color termi
nology classifies diamonds based on the
amount of color saturation present in the
body of the diamond.
The accompanying chart shows GIA
diamond clarity and color grading termi
nology. A diamond of a specific clarity can
occur in any of the colors. A diamond of a
specific color can occur in any of the clari
ties. Accordingly, the chart shows 240 possi
ble clarity/color combinations. Within any
specific budget there is an enormous range
of choice in size, clarity and color combina
tions.
Flawless clarity ana u color are un
wily grades which represent a singular,
unwavering, exact and objective standard.
All of the other clarity and color grades rep
resent subjective classifications of qualify
ing gemological characteristics. This sub
jective nature of diamond grading results ii
the potential of somewhat differing degrees
of interpretation by two or more graders. Ir
other vwwds, multiple graders can examine
the same diamond and disagree on the
darity and color grade of that diamond. As
a result, a diamond which is assigned a GL*
grade by a jeweler who grades on the basis
of lenient subjective criteria may actually
be significantly inferior to a diamond, with
a seemingly lower GIA grade, which has
been graded by a jeweler who adheres to
strict subjective criteria. This means that
although a diamond in one jewelry store
may “sound” like a better quality than a
diamond in a second jewelry store, die dia
mond in the second jewelry store may actu
ally be better quality and substantially mor
valuable.
Furthermore, except for “Flawless”
darity and “D” color, all of the other clarity
and cdor grades represent ranges of quali
fying gemological characteristics. This
means that within all of the other clarity
and color grades, there are many versions
of each grade, each different from all other
within the same grade, with some versions
being considered better; more desirable and
more valuable than other versions. For
example, if internal markings consistent
with a specific darity grade are located on
the edge erf a diamond where they can be
covered by prongs when the diamond is set
this version Of die darity grade is consid
ered better, more desirable and more valu
able than a version with the same internal
markings located in the center of the dia
mond where they cannot be covered by
prongs. Similarly, a version of a specific
color grade which is almost the next highe
color grade is considered better, more desir
able and mwe valuable than a version
which is almost the next lower color grade.
Hiis means that although two diamonds
may each be within the same darity and
color grade and, thus, “sound” like equal
quality diamonds, one of the diamonds
may, in fact, be substantially more valuable
than die other.
Most consumers are aware of the fact
that “carat weight” is a standard of measure
ment in the diamond industry. Few con
sumers are aware of the fact that “carat
weight” and “size” are not the same thing.
“Carat weight” denotes the weight of the dia
mond as measured by a scale. One carat
equals 1/5 gram. “Size” denotes the millime
ter dimensions of a diamond as measured by
a millimeter gauge.
Two diamonds can have the exact same
carat weight yet have greatly differing mil
limeter dimensions. Whether two diamonds
of die same carat weight have die same mil
limeter dimensions depends on how the
weight of each diamond is distributed. For
example, if one round diamond weighing 1
carat has a great proportion of its carat
weight distributed in its depth, it will appear
to be much smaller in “face-up” appearance
than another round diamond, also weighing 1
carat, which has a great proportion of its
carat weight distributed in its diameter. This
difference can be very substantial: Some 1
carat diamonds face up smaller than some
1/2 carat diamonds. So if two diamonds are
exactly the same carat wright, exactly the
same clarity and exactly the same color, the
two diamonds “sound” the same, yet one can
appear to be twice the size of the other. So
even though the two diamonds are identical
in carat weight, identical in clarity and identi
cal in color, die millimeter size difference can
make the larger appearing diamond worth as
much as 300% more than the smaller appear
ing diamond.
When consumers fail to understand
that, except for “Flawless” clarity and “D”
color, clarity and color grades are based on
subjective, and not objective, criteria, and
constitute ranges of qualifying gemological
characteristics, and when they fail to under
stand that “carat wright” and “size” are not
the same thing, they make costly buying
mistakes. As a result of these failures, these
uneducated consumers, in effect, make their
buying decisions with their ears, based only
on what the diamond “sounds” like.
Educated consumers do not purchase dia
monds with their ears. Educated consumers
understand that although one diamond may
„ “sound” equal to or better than another, the
truth may be otherwise. Educated consumers
buy diamonds with their eyes, on the basis of
a visual examination.
At Nebraska Diamond our staff of
Certified Diamontologists* will show you
your diamond under laboratory grading
conditions so you can see your diamond
» under the exact same conditions our
Diamond Buyer used when he selected it for
our store. No other area store provides this
service. Accordingly, you do not have to take
our word for the fact that our diamonds are
dearly superior. You will see it for yourself.
, Our incredible diamond inventory is one
important reason why Nebraska Diamond
will sell more diamond engagement rings
than all of the other area jewelry stores com
bined.
UNDERSTANDING CUT
» The “cut” of a diamond is divided into
two components: (1) “Shape” and (2)
“Make”. “Shape” is a two dimensional con
cept consisting of length and width in which
the outline of the outer edge of die diamond
in its “faoe-up” position is described. Typical
i shapes include round, oval, pear, marquise,
heart, radiant, princess, emerald and trillion.
Each “Shape” is subdivided into various ver
sions of that “Shape”. For example, some
marquise diamonds are long and narrow,
others are short and fat, and others are in
between. Some versions of “Shape” are con
sidered in the diamond industry to be con
siderably better, more desirable and more
valuable than other versions.
“Make” is a much more complicated
J concept than “Shape”. “Make” involves the
entire geometry and all of the cutting propor
tions of the diamond. The “Make” of a dia
mond is defined in terms of how the physical
dimensions and angles of cutting interrelate,
and how each and all of these factors affect
the physical appearance and optical light
handling capabilities of the diamond.
> The optical light handling capabilities of
a diamond produce two primary results: (1)
Brilliance and (2) Fire. Brilliance is “reflect
ed” light and fire is “refracted” light In sim
ple terms, brilliance is “white” light and fire
is light which has been broken down into
the primary and secondary spectral colors
(red, blue, yellow, and their secondary com
binations).
Reflected light (brilliance) plus refracted
light (fire) equals 100% of the light you see.
As an increment of one type of light is
increased, the increment of the other type of
light must decrease, because the total of the
‘ two cannot exceed 100% of the light you see.
These are the laws of optics. Accordingly, if
the cutter fashions a diamond to increase its
brilliance, the co-result has to be a reduction
in fire. Conversely, if the cutter fashions a
diamond to increase its fire, the co-result
has to be a reduction in brilliance. This is
why there is no such thing as a diamond cut
• to maximum brilliance and maximum fire
simultaneously. Accordingly, mere is no such
thing as a single “best” cut Any jeweler who
tells you otherwise is giving you a sales
pitch.
The most important characteristic in
light handling capability that is affected by
“Make” is the improvement of the efficiency
with which the diamond handles light
When light enters a diamond three things
happen: (1) Some of the light is reflected
back out from the diamond as brilliance, (2)
some of the light is refracted back out from
the diamond as fire, and (3) the remainder
of the light leaks through the diamond and
is lost The more efficient a diamond, the
^NEBRASKA DIAMOND'
GIA Color GIA Clarity Carat Weight
rnlmW Flawless p *1 ct = 90 to 110 pts.
Colorless |_-7/8 ct = 80 to 89 pts.
-GZ Very Very WSI-1 3/4 ct = 70 to 79 pts.
Near h_ Slight 5/8 ct = 56 to *9 pts.
Colorless i_ Imperfection WSI"2 1/2 ct = 45 to 55 pts.
kZ Very Slight VSI-1 7/l6 ct = 40 to 44 pts.
Faint Yellow L_ Imperfection 3/8 ct = 36 to 39 pts.
- VSM 1/3 ct = 29 to 35 pts.
VeryUght iC ' Slight SI-1 J/4 ct = 23 to 28 pts.
Yellow -I— Imperfection */5 ct - 18 to 22 pts.
SI-2 1/6 ct = 15 to 17 pts.
Lt Imperfect 71 1/8ct = 12t0 l4Pb'
X ^ 1-1 VlOct = 9 to 11 pts.
JL_ 12
light Yellow v_ 1_z
iz 1-3
Y -- -
■_Z
Fancy Yellow *1 Exact Carat = 100 Points
_GIA Diamond Color and Clarity Terminology_J
less light it leaks. The less light a diamond
leaks, the brighter its overall appearance.
A superior “Make” increases the efficien
cy with which die diamond handles light
because a diamond of superior “Make” suf
fers a comparatively small amount of light
leakage/loss. An inferior “Make” decreases
the efficiency with which the diamond han
dles light because a diamond of inferior
“Make” suffers a comparatively large
amount of light leakage/loss. Accordingly,
since a superior “Make” returns to the view
er a larger total volume of light, it appears
brighter and shows correspondingly larger
volumes of reflected (brilliance) and refract
ed (fire) light
As noted above, in addition to affecting
the optical light handling capabilities of a
diamond the “Make” also affects the physi
cal appearance of die diamond. Diamonds
of superior “Make” face up the size expect
ed for their carat weight and show excep
tional brilliance and fire.
UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN RARITY AND BEAUTY
As you move up the clarity scale toward
“Flawless” you move into clarity qualities
that are increasingly rare. As you move up
the color scale toward “D” you move into,
color qualities that are increasingly rare, it
is important to understand that an increase
in rarity does not inherently or automati
cally translate into an increase in beauty.
Tb the naked eye, there is no difference
in beauty between a diamond graded
“Flamless” and the same diamond if it was
graded “SI-2”, because neither “flawless”
nor “SI-2” diamonds are considered to
show markings visible to die naked eye.
“flawless” clarity and “SI-2” clarity are dif
ferent versions of beauty. The diamond will
cost more if it is “flawless” clarity than it
will if it is “SI-2” clarity, but that higher
cost is primarily a function of rarity, not
beauty.
Similarly, one color is not inherently
and automatically more beautiful than
another. “D” color is icy in appearance
compared to “M” color. “M” color is warm
in appearance compared to “D” color. “D”
color and “M” color are different versions erf
beauty. The diamond will cost more if it is
“D” color than it will if it is “M” color, but
that higher cost is primarily7 a function of
rarity, not beauty.
Rarity is a fact of nature. Beauty is in
the eye of the beholder. When consumers
assume that higher clarity diamonds are
automatically more beautiful than lower
clarity diamonds, or assume dial higher
color diamonds are automatically more
beautiful than lower color diamonds, they
make costly buying mistakes. Paying extra
for rarity does not guarantee you a more
beautiful diamond. It bears repeating that
educated consumers buy with their eyes, on
the basis of a visual examination.
Uneducated consumers buy with their ears,
on the basis of what the diamond “sounds”
like.
UNDERSTANDING THE TRICKS OF THE
TRADE
Consumers should be aware of various
trade practices in the jewelry industry
which are used to unduly influence buying
decisions. The three most prominent “tricks
of the trade” are (1) Deceptive showroom
lighting conditions, (2) fake sales, and (3)
misdirection.
Promoting diamond jewelry by showing
it under special showroom display lighting is
considered normal practice in the jewelry
industry. 11118 lighting is recognizable by its
“hot”, “bright” or “intense” appearance, and
includes spot lights, flood lamps, reflector
lamps, tubular display case bulbs, chande
liers and similar light sources. This type of
display lighting is unfair to consumers
because it artificially enhances the appear
ance of diamond brilliance and fire and, in
addition, such lighting makes it impossible
to reliably determine diamond clarity and
color grades. Hie effect is so extreme that
even very poor quality diamonds shown
under such lighting will sparkle like they
belong in the Crown Jewels of England.
Professional diamond buyers never
purchase diamonds under such lights.
Professional diamond buyers purchase dia
monds wily under laboratory grading
lights. Laboratory grading lights are
“TUbular fluorescent color corrected day
light bulbs rated at 5000 Kelvin”.
Laboratory grading lights neutralize bril
liance and fire and render colors accurate
ly. Only under laboratory grading lights do
you see exactly what you are buying, with
no surprises later.
At Nebraska Diamond our Diamond
Buyer insists on laboratory grading lights
and our customers deserve nothing less. We
use laboratory grading lights in every over
head fluorescent fixture in our store. Our
customers purchase their diamonds under
the exact same lighting used by our own
Diamond Buyer. No other area jewelry store
provides its customers with the strict 100%
laboratory lighting conditions we have at
Nebraska Diamond.
Fake sales have reached epidemic pro
portions in the jewelry industry. In the fake
sale scheme the store places a fictitious and
exorbitant “regular” price on the merchan
dise and then advertises it at some seem
ingly giant “discount”. In reality the store
has never sold the item at the “regular”
price and has simply marked it up to mark
it back down to give the consumer the illu
sion of a “bargain”.
At Nebraska Diamond our pricing poli
cy follows the no nonsense philosophy of
“lowest price every day”. This means that
you never have to wait for a “sale” at
Nebraska Diamond. We are very serious
about fulfilling our commitment to offer
our merchandise at the lowest prices in the
market every day. That commitment is an
important reason why Nebraska Diamond
has grown to completely dominate
Lincoln’s diamond jewelry market
“Misdirection” is the Art erf getting the
consumer to make a buying decision on
the basis of something other than the prod
uct itself. In the jewelry industry “misdirec
tion” takes two primary forms: (1) Using a
“gizmo” to “prove” that the diamond
meets a superior standard, and (2) using
third party “authentication” to “prove” one
diamond is better than another.
Analyzing brilliance and fire in a dia
mond is such a complicated subject that to
properly study diamond light handling
characteristics the GIA has utilized comput
er technology to create a computerized
“virtual diamond” with 20,122 different
proportion combinations. The GIA studied
the way light travels through these 20,122
combinations and measured the brilliance
of each through a numerical evaluation
tihe GIA calls “Weighted Light Return”
(WLR). Because thousands of these propor
tion combinations produce beautiful dia
monds, the GIA has never been able to
develop a scientifically proven cut grade
rating system and, in that regard, GIA
research is still in progress..
In spite of the foregoing, some jewelers
show consumers a gizmo, place a diamond
inside and, by virtue of some otherwise
invisible pattern in the diamond revealed by
the gizmo, announce that the diamond cut
is perfect and superior in every way. In fact,
the gizmo used to reveal the otherwise invis
ible pattern does not measure beauty or
brilliance. The gizmo is a misdirection tool.
Diamonds which are pushed on consumers
by misdirection tricks are called “Gimmick
Diamonds” by people in the diamond indus
try.
The two most notorious Gimmick
Diamonds are die “Hearts and Arrows” dia
mond and the American “Ideal Cut” dia
mond, which are marketed at premium
prices under a variety of fancy sounding
brand names. Hie “Hearts and Arrows” dia
mond and the American “Ideal Cut” dia
mond are touted by their dealers as “the
rhost brilliant” diamonds. The claim is pure
hype. The American Gem Society (AGS) “0”
cut grade is the basis of the “Hearts ami
Arrows” diamond. When the GIA examined
the range of proportions of die AGS “0” cut
grade, examples generated a “Weighted Light
Return” (WLR) value in the “typical” catego
ry for brilliance, an unimpressive rating
which is well below GIA’s highest WLR bril
liance category. In the same GIA tests the
American “Ideal Cut” proportions generated
WLR values in die “moderately low” category
for brilliance.
Similarly, some jewelers present “certifi
cates” containing third party descriptions of
the diamond to “prove” that their diamond
is better than the diamond at the other
store. The objective is to get the consumer to
choose a diamond (Hi the basis of what a
piece of paper says about it, and not on the
basis of actually visually examining the dia
mond. After all, if these “certificates” are
prepared by independent third parties they
must be unbiased and correct, right? Not
quite. What the consumer is not told is that
all these certificates contain accuracy dis
claimers and, further, that some third party
providers grade diamonds using lenient sub
jective grading standards so that their “cer
tificates” read better and the diamonds
described in them “sound” better than if v
they used strict subjective grading stan
dards. No “certificate”, regardless of its
detail, tells you whether the diamond is
beautiful or brilliant “Certificates” are mis
direction tools.
IN SEARCH OF BEAUTY, STYLE AND
VALUE
Every year at Nebraska Diamond we
make thousands of engaged couples happy
they came to see us. The couples who have
the easiest, most comfortable and most fun
time purchasing their engagement ring all
share the same three objectives: (1) They
want a diamond they feel is beautiful, (2)
they want a ring style they both love and (3)
they want the diamond and ring to be with
in their budget
Ihe most beautiful diamond to one per
son may not be foe most beautiful diamond
to another. At Nebraska Diamond our
Certified Diamontologists* are educated and
trained to listen to you so that they can
show you a selection erf diamonds having
the characteristics you find the most beauti
ful. Our tremendous diamond inventory
guarantees that we always have foe correct
diamond on hand to satisfy all of your
requirements for beauty.
When it comes to ring style selection,
Nebraska Diamond is Nebraska’s only
Engagement & Wedding Ring Superstore. All
foe other area jewelry stores combined can
not show you the ring style selection you
will see simply by coming to Nebraska
Diamond. We guarantee that no matter
where you have been or what you have seen
you will be absolutely astonished by the
selection at Nebraska Diamond.
You, and only you, know what budget is
comfortable for you. Our advice to you
regarding the topic of budget is very simple:
(1) Set a budget (2) Stay within that bud
get At Nebraska Diamond we show respect
for our customers by honoring the budget
limitations they set One of foe advantages
of being the Engagement & Wedding Ring
Superstore is that we have beautiful engage
ment and wedding rings to fit every budget
Any jewelry store can claim to be foe
“best”, but the proof is in the performance.
Any jewelry store can claim to have the
“biggest and best selection”, but the proof is
in the performance. Any jewelry store can
claim to have the “most beautiful and bril
liant diamonds”, but foe proof is in the per
formance. Any jewelry store can claim to
have foe “lowest prices”, but foe proof is in
the performance.
Our performance record speaks for
itself: Nebraska Diamond will sell more
engagement and wedding rings than all of
the other area jewelry stores combined.
We look forward to serving you.
*The distinction of Certified Diamontologist is
awarded by foe Diamond Council of America,
a non-profit educational organization, only
after a comprehensive course of study and
proven proficiency by testing
Copyright© 2001. Nebraska Diamond
Sales Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
NEBRASKA
DIAMOND
8th Floor Wells Fargo Center
13th & 0 Streets
Lincoln, Nebraska 68508 s
(402) 474-6400
USA 1-800-334-GEMS
The Engagement & Wedding
Ring Superstore9*