PAID ADVERTISEMENT
HOW TO BUY A DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING
WITH CONFIDENCE AND KNOWLEDGE
By John Tavtin
President
Nebraska Diamond
For the average consumer, buying a dia
mond can be one of the most confusing and
frustrating experiences imaginable. The con
sumer is often confronted with a barrage of con
flicting claims from various jewelers intent on
selling their product. If the consumer is not
armed with adequate product knowledge, they
stand little chance for success in the jewelry
marketplace.
A UNIFORM SYSTEM
OF DIAMOND GRADING
* Serious shopping for diamonds begins with
an understanding of the Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) and its diamond grading system.
The GIA is a non-profit organization dedicated
primarily to the pursuit of gemological education.
It owns and operates the most prestigious trade
laboratory for the identification and classification
of gem stones in this country. The GIA is consid
ered by the diamond industry to be the final and
most authoritative word on diamond grading stan
dards in the United States and its diamond grad
ing system is, by far, the dominant grading sys
tem used by diamond cutting firms and jewelry
manufacturers in this country today.
Knowledge of the GIA diamond grading sys
tem is a prerequisite for informed buying of dia
monds, and knowledge of that system without
an actual “hands on” demonstration is virtually
impossible. The accompanying chart shows a
total of 240 separate and distinct combinations
of GIA grades and there is a separate and dis
tinct price list for each grade within each size
category. At Nebraska Diamond we give all cus
tomers a thorough explanation and demonstra
tion of the GIA diamond grading system under
laboratory conditions using actual examples, so
that the customer can see with his or her own
eyes the characteristics and appearance of the
various grades. As a result, Nebraska Diamond
customers can identify the various GIA grades
by themselves and do not need to helplessly
rely on the jeweler’s representations. The two
principal reasons why customers need this spe
cial instruction and knowledge to survive in the
jewelry marketplace are:
1. Many jewelers invent their own personal
grading system because by doing so they make
it difficult or impossible for the consumer to com
parison shop. The GIA system is a uniform sys
tem of diamond grading and gives the consumer
a standard of comparison.
2. Jewelers who do represent diamonds to
customers in GIA terms often take liberties with
the GIA system and just “puff the grade up to
whatever level is necessary to make the sale,
believing that the customer will not be able to
identify the deception. A diamond which is~
assigned a GIA grade by one of these jewelers
may actually be significantly inferior to a diamond
offered, with a seemingly lower GIA grade, by a
jeweler who adheres to the strict grading stan
dards we use at Nebraska Diamond. Unless the
consumer has adequate product knowledge, they
risk being duped into purchasing a low quality
diamond. Your only real protection as a consumer
is to educate yourself about the product. At
Nebraska Diamond we provide our customers
with an education that makes them the best
informed diamond buyers in the market and
we’ve been doing it for over fifteen years. You do
not get the Nebraska Diamond consumer educa
tion program at any other jewelry store.
THE RELATIONSHIP OF COLOR,
CLARITY, CUT AND CARAT WEIGHT
Color, clarity, cut and carat weight all have
an important impact on the ultimate value of
your diamond. In “The Complete Guide to
Buying Gems” (Copyright 1984, Crown
Publishers, Inc. New York), diamond authorities
Antoinette Leonard Matlins and Antonio C.
Bonanno, F.G.A., P.G. state, “If we were to iden
tify the factors that determine the value of a dia
mond in order of their importance, we would list
them as follows:
1. Body Color (color grade)
2. Degree of flawlessness
(clarity grade)
3. Cut and proportion
(often referred to as the make)
4. Carat weight”
Color refers to the hue present in the body of
the diamond. Color is observed by placing the
diamond upside down in a white color grading
trough and viewing through the side of the gem.
Among color, clarity, cut and carat weight, color
is the characteristic most easily noticed by the
human eye and it has the most impact on the
appearance of the gem, hence, color carries the
most value.
Clarity refers to a measurement of the inter
nal flaws and surface blemishes present in or on
a diamond. Sometimes internal flaws and sur
face blemishes can be seen only under magnifi
cation. To magnify a diamond a jeweler’s loupe
or a microscope is used with 10X magnification.
The microscope is often used more as a sales
tool than as a gem grading instalment because
its ‘laboratory” appearance can be impressive to
consumers. The microscope, however, is a cum
bersome piece of equipment and is less flexible
than the loupe for examination of diamonds. For
these reasons, among others, the loupe is by far
the dominant grading instalment used by dia
mond dealers. At Nebraska Diamond you may
view your diamond under both a jeweler's loupe
and under a microscope designed for profes
sional diamond examination. Among color, clari
ty, cut and carat weight, clarity is the second
most observable characteristic and has the sec
ond most impact on the appearance of the gem,
hence, clarity carries the second most value.
Cut refers to the proportions of the diamond.
A diamond can be cut to any one of an infinite
number of proportions depending on the angles
of the facets. These angles can vary from dia
mond to diamond. As explained below, propor
tion analysis is extremely subjective and the
effect of differing proportions on the appearance
and value of the diamond is often a matter of
opinion. Generally, however, except for the pro
portion called the “heavy make” discussed
below, cut is a less observable characteristic
than color or clarity from a quantitative stand
point and, hence, cut generally carries less
value.
Carat weight refers to the weight of the dia
mond and not to its size. This is an important
distinction because two diamonds which weigh
the same can appear drastically different in size
and this may result in drastically different values
even if color ani clarity are the same in both
gems. Sometimes customers forget that size is
a dimensional linear measurement expressed in
millimeters. The term “Carat” is only a weight
measurement. One carat is equal to 1/5 gram. If
a diamond is cut with its weight concentrated in
its depth, a proportion called the “heavy make”,
it will appear much smaller than a diamond of
the exact same carat weight cut with its weight
concentrated in its width. The difference in value
between these two diamonds can be substan
tial, often exceeding 40%. At Nebraska Diamond
we avoid the “heavy make”, but we have
observed that the “heavy make” is very preva
lent in today’s diamond market. Therefore, it is
extremely important that the consumer know
how to recognize the “heavy make”. As dis
cussed below, however, consumers who do not
have the consumer education we provide at
Nebraska Diamond are at a tremendous disad
vantage when it comes to recognizing the
“heavy make” and they risk buying it unknowing
ly
CUT. THE MISUNDERSTOOD “C”
Among the 4 “C’s” (Color, Clarity, Cut and
Carat Weight) the subject of diamond propor
tioning (Cut) is easily the most misunderstood.
The GIA has subdivided proportion analysis into
four Classes based on table diameter, crown
angle', pavilion depth, girdle thickness, finish and
symmetry. Each Class contains wide parameters
for proper proportioning and, therefore, provides
an infinite variety of differing cutting proportions
all of which are considered equally appropriate
within each Class. The GIA proportion analysis
format, thus, illustrates what every diamond
expert in this business knows: that there are lit
erally hundreds of different diamond proportions
available which create beautiful and highly desir
able gems.
Because there are so many accepted types
of proportioning in diamond cut, there is no
agreement in the diamond industry on what con
stitutes the “best” cut. This is because the main
factors affected by cut (dispersion and brilliance)
cannot all be maximized in the same gem.
“Dispersion” is sometimes referred to as
“Fire”. Dispersion means the ability of the dia
mond to break down light into the spectral colors
(blues, reds, yellows, etc.).
“Brilliance” refers to the ability of the diamond
to return colorless or “white” light to the viewer.
As common sense will tell you, if you
increase a diamond’s ability to break light into the
spectral colors, you reduce its ability to return
colorless or “white” light. Conversely, if you
increase a diamond's ability to return colorless or
“white” light, you reduce its ability to break light
into the spectral colors. That is why there is no
such thing as a diamond cut to maximum disper
sion and maximum brilliance, both at the same
time. By cutting to maximize one of these factors
the other is compromised, and since both are of
equal importance, it is impossible to authorita
tively classify one type of cut as the “best”.
In buying a diamond it has been our experi
ence that the consumer desires the most beauti
ful gem his or her budget can afford. Precisely
how dispersion and brilliance translate into
beauty, however, is a matter of personal opinion.
In their chapter on “The Importance of Cut and
Proportion", the authors of “The Complete Guide
to Buying Gems” state, with reference to the per
centage measurements of various diamond cut
ting proportions, ,!No one has come to an agree
ment, however, on what the percentage should
be, since some people prefer fire to brilliance
and vice versa. This is why there are several
accepted types of proportioning found in dia
mond cut, and ‘best’ is a matter of personal pref
erence”. In actuality, the difference in dispersion
and brilliance between some differing diamond
proportions is so slight that it is measurable only
with sensitive laboratory instruments and is
.
Nebraska Diamond!
G1A GIA Carat
Color * Clarity Weight
COLORLESS * I" FLAWLESS F 1 ct = 90 to 110 pts.
T i 7/8 ct = 80 to 89 pts.
near h “w'vwh 3/4 ct = 70 to 79 pts.
COLORLESS IJL 5/8 ct = 56 to 69 pts.
FAWT|E PtPERF^S^1 '/?Ct=^!°”PU
vwJSw L ~ 7/16 ct = 40 to 44 pts.
YELLOW S VERY VSH 3/8 ct = 36 to 39 pts.
VERY o SLIGHT 1/3 ct = 29 to 35 pts.
UGHT E imperfection vsm 1/4 ct = 23 to 28 ptt
YELLOW 0 - y.Z TL ZZ K
E cLi 1/5 ct = 18 to 22 pts.
T IMFERf£££ }/6ct=15to,7p*
u SI-2 1/8 ct = 12 to 14 pts.
| H 1/10 Ct = 9 to 11 pts.
Y IMPERFECT u i Exact Carat = 100 Points
FANCY ~~ i-3
YELLOW L L
t GIA DIAMOND COLOR AND CLARITY TERMINOLOGY /
impossible to see with the naked eye.
As discussed above, one area in which cut
makes a big difference in the value of a diamond
concerns the “heavy make”. The term “heavy
make” refers to a diamond that has a dispropor
tionate share of its total carat weight concentrat
ed in the depth of the stone. Visually, this means
that a “heavy make” diamond actually weighing
1 carat may only face up with the appearance
and diameter of a 3/4 carat diamond cut to prop
er proportions. Because they face up so much
smaller than they should, “heavy makes” are
worth substantially less than properly propor
tioned diamonds. Because the “heavy make” is
worth less, it costs the jeweler less, so they can
sell it for less. When the jeweler fails to tell the
customer that they are showing a “heavy make”,
and fails to explain that the “heavy make” is
priced lower because it is worth less, the effect
is to trick the consumer into thinking that they
have purchased a full size diamond at a bargain
price. This illusion is further enhanced when the
jeweler shows only “heavy make” diamonds and
does not show the consumer a full size diamond
to enable the consumer to compare. In fact, the
problem of “heavy make” is virtually never
explained to th$ consumer, so the consumer
simply assumes thit any diamond shown of a
certain carat weight faces up the size that it
should, and they purchase the “heavy make”
unknowingly. We feel that this failure to inform
the consumer is unfair and that it constitutes
deception by omission. At Nebraska Diamond
we give our customers a detailed explanation of
this important subject.
HOW TO SPOT DECEPTIVE
TRADE PRACTICES
Consumers should be aware of various trade
practices which are common in the jewelry indus
try but which we feel are deceptive, unfair and, in
many cases, illegal. Deceptive trade practices
cost consumers incalculable sums of money
annually. Awareness of these trade practices will
assist the consumer in spotting them and avoid
ing them when shopping for fine jewelry.
Deceptive trade practices in the jewelry
industry tend to fall generally into two broad cat
egories:
1. Practices which lead the consumer to
believe that they are receiving a bargain pur
chase when, in fact, they are not (fake “sales”),
and
2. Practices which lead the consumer to
believe the quality, quantity or description of the
article being purchased is more or better than
that which is actually delivered (active or con
structive misrepresentation of the product either
by act or omission).
The concept of the fake “sale” is an old one.
Basically, it plays on the desire of the consumer
to obtain a bargain purchase. Fake “sales” can
be advertised or unadvertised. Here’s how the
scheme works: In the advertised fake “sale”
scheme the jeweler places an exorbitant and
purely fictitious “regular price” or “appraised
value” or “reference price” on an article of jewel
ry. They then advertise “special sale prices” or
“drastic reductions” or “storewide 50% off clear
ance sale” or “certified savings” or something
similar to druro up excitement, and then they
offer the article to the consumer for less than the
fictitious “markef price. The consumer buys the
article believing they have received a bargain. In
fact, though, under the scheme, the jeweler has
sold the article for the price they always intended
to sell it for. There is no bargain because the arti
cle really wasn’t marked down at all, so the con
sumer actually paid full price. The fake “sale”
scheme is also employed in unadvertised
“sales”. In the unadvertised fake “sale” the con
sumer walks into the store and observes a ficti
tious “marked" price on the article and the sales
person simply tells the consumer that the article
is on “sale” even though the “sale” is not being
publicly advertised, and then offers the article to
the consumer for a “reduced” price. Both adver
tised and unadvertised fake “sales” are high
pressure sales techniques used to influence the
consumer to buy now before the “sale” ends. In
fact, under either scheme, there is no “sale” and
the customer is deceived. The fake “sale”
scheme has reached epidemic proportions. In
our opinion, the fake “sale” is the predominant
tool used in advertised and unadvertised “price
reduction” promotions in the jewelry industry
today. Jewelers who conduct fake “sales” are
simply betting that their customers are too stupid
to figure out what is going on. We think that is a
poor bet. Our experience with consumers con
vinces us that they are intelligent people who are
entitled to be treated with honesty and respect.
Anytime you encounter a jewelry “sale” employ
ing any of the above characteristics, we suggest
that you exercise extreme caution. Bring a copy
of the “sale” advertisement or the unadvertised
sale iniorrriaiion to iveurasxa uiamono.
Compare their so called “sale” prices to our regu
lar everyday prices and see for yourself why
Nebraska Diamond totally dominates Lincoln’s
engagement ring and fine jewelry market.
The jewelry industry customarily employs
several subtle techniques in an attempt to con
vince the consumer that the quality, quantity or
description of the article being purchased is
more or better than that which is actually deliv
ered. We think that these techhiques are decep
tive and improper and that consumers should be
warned about them. First and foremost among
these techniques is the implementation of spe
cialized lighting conditions designed to enhance
the true appearance of any gem stone or article
of jewelry. This usually takes the form of chande
liers, spot lights, flood lamps, and reflector
lamps, both incandescent and fluorescent, plus
tubular incandescent display case bulbs and
other similar tyHj light sources. These light
sources are instantly recognizable by their “hof,
“bright” or “intense” appearance. Such lights arti
ficially enhance the appearance, dispersion,
scintillation and brilliance in diamonds and, fur
ther, they make it impossible to accurately deter
mine the GIA color and clarity grade. In other
words, these lights make the diamond appear
better than it is. While others may argue that the
use of specialized lighting is merely a merchan
dising and display technique, we prefer to think
that consumers are entitled to see exactly what
they are getting. As a practical matter, the only
jewelry store lighting condition which is non
deceptive, that is, which presents the true
appearance of gem stones and articles of jewel
ry, is color corrected tubular fluorescent lighting.
Even this light, in order to be non-deceptive,
must be presented at a low height in a closed
and carefully controlled environment, undiluted
and uncontaminated by other light sources.
These are the lighting conditions which are used
for laboratory grading of diamonds, and these
are the lighting conditions you will find at
Nebraska Diamond. At Nebraska Diamond we
sell quality jewelry, and we adhere to the philos
ophy that when you sell quality jewelry you don’t
need deceptive lighting conditions.
THE CONSUMER’S RIGHT TO KNOW
The ultimate purpose for the consumer to
acquire product knowledge is to enable him or
her to separate “fad” from “sales pitch”. Your
right as a consumer to know the facts is
unequivocal, and should indude nothing less
than the following:
1. You have the right to demand that the jew
eler accurately grade your diamond in conformi
ty with the GIA diamond grading system, that
they fully disclose that grade to you and that
they show you how the grade was determined.
Never purchase a diamond without such a dis
closure.
2. You have the right to examine your dia
mond loose before making your purchase. You
cannot accurately observe the color or clarity of
a diamond or authenticate its carat weight or
determine that it is not chipped if it is already set
into a ring. Never purchase a diamond that you
have not examined loose.
3. You have the right to examine your dia
mond under the lighting conditions used for lab
oratory grading of diamonds, that is, under color
corrected tubular fluorescent lighting, presented
at a low height in a closed and carefully con
trolled environment undiluted and uncontaminat
ed by other light sources. Never purchase a dia
mond that you have not examined under such
lighting conditions.
4. You have the right to examine the color of
your diamond in a white color grading trough
and to examine the clarity of your diamond
under a loupe or microscope, and you have the
right to expect the jeweler to point out exactly 4
what you should see. Never purchase a dia
mond that you have not examined in this man
ner.
5. You have the right to have your diamond
weighed in your presence on an electronic dia
mond scale to verify its claimed carat weight.
Never buy a diamond that you have not
observed in this manner.
6. You have the right to ask any questions
pertinent to your purchase and you have the
right to expect a courteous, informed, accurate
and complete answer. Never purchase anything
from a jeweler who shows disrespect for your
right as a consumer to know.
A FINAL WORD
At Nebraska Diamond we’ve built our reputa
tion on unhurried personal service, tremendous
selection, superb quality and unbeatable value.
That’s why Nebraska Diamond will provide more
engagement and wedding rings to more satisfied
customers than all of the other area jewelry
stores combined. Nebraska Diamond is Lincoln s
only Engagement and Wedding Ring Superstore.
We regularty stock virtually every engagement
and wedding ring style imaginable and with each
we also include our free Wedding Savings
Package™ coupon booklet which entitles
Nebraska Diamond customers to huge discounts
at 30 other area merchants on everything need
ed for a perfect wedding. At Nebraska Diamond
we believe that earning your trust is the most
important thing we do, and that trust is earned
with quality, service, value and honesty. Our per
formance record speaks for itself: Nebraska
Diamond has been named “Best place in Lincoln
for engagement and wedding rings” for 15 con
secutive years, and we have the highest industry
rating of any jewelry store in the State of
Nebraska. We look forward to serving you.
©Copyright 1996 Nebraska Diamond Sales
Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
NEBRASKA
DIAMOND
8th Floor, NBC Center
13 th & O Streets
Lincoln, Nebraska 68508
(402)474-6400
USA 1-800-334-GEMS
The Engagement &
Wedding Ring Superstore^1
