The daily Nebraskan. ([Lincoln, Neb.) 1901-current, April 09, 1992, Page 3, Image 3
--- PAID ADVERTISEMENT HOW TO BUY DIAMONDS WITH CONFIDENCE AND KNOWLEDGE By John Tavlin President Nebraska Diamond For the average consumer buying a diamond can be one of the most confus ing and frustrating experiences imagin able. The consumer is often confronted with a barrage of conflicting claims from various jewelers intent on selling their product. If the consumer is not armed with adequate product knowledge he stands little chance for success in the jewelry marketplace. A UNIFORM SYSTEM OF DIAMOND GRADING Serious shopping for diamonds be gins with an understanding of the Gemo iogical Institute of America (GIA) and its diamond grading system. The GIA is a non-profit organization dedicated primar ily to the pursuit of gemoiogica) education trade laboratory tor the identification and classification of gem stones in this coun try . The Gl A is considered by the diamond industry to be the final and most authori tative word on diamond grading stan dards in the United States and its dia mond grading system is, by far, the domi nant grading system used by diamond cutting firms and jewelry manufacturers in this country today. Knowledge of the GIA diamond grad ing system is a pre-requisite for informed buying of diamonds, and knowledge of that system without an actual "hands on" demonstration is virtually impossible The accompanying chart shows a total of 240 separate and distinct combinations of GI A grades and there is a separate and distinct price list for each grade within each size category. At Nebraska Dia mond we give all customers a thorough explanation and demonstration of the GIA diamond grading system under labora tory conditions using actual examples, so that the customer can see with his or her numouoc tho r-hara/'tziric fire anH annoar ance of the various grades As a result, Nebraska Diamond customers can iden tify the various GIA grades by themselves and do not need to helplessly rely on the jeweler's representations The two princi pal reasons why customers need this special instruction and knowledge to sur vive in the jewelry marketplace are: . 1. Many jewelers invent their own personal grading system because by doing so they make it difficult or impos sible tor the oonsumer to comparison shop The GIA system is a uniform sys tem of diamond grading and gives the consumer a standard ofcomparison 2 Jewelers who do represent dia monds to customers in GIA terms often take liberties with the GIA system and just 'puff" the grade up to whatever level is necessary to make the sale, believing that the customer will not be able to iden tify the deception A diamond which is assigned a GIA grade by one of these jewelers may actually be significantly in ferior to a diamond offered, with a seem 3ly lower GIA grade, by a jeweler who >eres to the strict grading standards we use at Nebraska Diamond. Unless the consumer has adequate product know! edge, he risks being duped into purchas mg a low quality diamond Your only real protection as a consumer is to educate yourself about the product At Nebraska Diamond we provide our customers with an education that makes them the best informed diamond buyers in the market TUU UU I njl yoi U lO Iiouiaaha L/iamuuu consumer education program at any other jewelry store. THE RELATIONSHIP OF COLOR, CLARITY, CUT AND CARAT WEIGHT Color, darity. cut and carat weight all have an important impact on the ultimate value of your diamond In The Complete Guide to Buying Gems" (Copyright 1984, Crown Publishers, Inc New York), dia mond authorities Antoinette Leonard Matlins and Antonio C Bon an no, F.G.A., P G state. "If we were to identity the factors that determine the value of a dia mond in order of their importance, we would list them as follows: 1. Body Color (color grade) 2. Degree of (lawlessness (clarity grade) 3 Cut and proportion (often referred to as the make) 4. Carat weight" Color refers to the hue present in the body of the diamond Color is observed by placing the diamond upside down in a white color grading trough and viewing through the side of tne gem Among color, darity, cut and carat weight, color is the characteristic most easily noticed by the human eye and it has the most impact on the appearance of the gem, hence, color carries the most value Clarity refers to a measurement of the internal flaws and surface blemishes present in or on a diamond Sometimes internal flaws and surface blemishes can be seen only under magnification. To magnify a diamond a jeweler s loupe or a microscope is used. The microscope is often used more as a sales tool than as a gem instrument because its "laboratory" appearance can be impressive to con sumers The microscope, however, is a cumbersome piece of equipment and is less flexible than the loupe for examination of diamonds. For these reasons, among oth ers, the loupe is by far the dominant grading instrument used by diamond dealers. At Nebraska Diamond you may view your dia mond under both a jeweler’s loupe and under a microscope designed for professional dia mond examination. Among color, clarity, cut and carat weight, clarity is the second most observable characteristic and has the sec ond most impact on the appearance of the gem, hence, darity carries the second most value. Cut refers to the proportions of the dia mond. A diamond can be cut to any one of an infinite number of proportions depending on the angles of the facets. These angles can vary from diamond to diamond. As explained below, proportion analysis is extremely sub jective and the effect of differing proportions on the appearance and value offee diamond is often a matter of opinion. Generally, how ever, except for the proportion called the “heavy make’ discussed below, cut is a less observable characteristic than color or dar ity from a quantitative standpoint and, hence, cut generally carries less value. Carat weight refers to the weight of the diamond and not to its size. This is an impor tant distinction because two diamonds which weigh the same can appear drastically differ ent in size and this may result in drastically different values even if color and darity are the same in both gems. Sometimes custom ers forget feat size is a dimensional linear measurement expressed in millimeters The term “Carat" is only a weight measurement One carat is equal to 1/5 gram. If a diamond is cut wife its weight concentrated in its depth, a proportion called the ’heavy make’, it will appear much smaller than a diamond of the exact same carat weight cut wife its weight concentrated In its width The differ ence in value between these two diamonds can be substantial, often exceeding 40%. At Nebraska Diamond we avoid fee “heavy make", but we have observed feat fee "heavy ir won/ r\rowolont in tnHau'e HiamftftH market. Therefore, it is extremely important that the consumer know how to recognize the "heavy make". As discussed below, how ever, consumers who do not have the con sumer education we provide at Nebraska Diamond are at a tremendous disadvantage when it comes to recognizing the “heavy make" and they risk buying it unknowingly. CUT: THE MISUNDERSTOOD “C” Se4"C's" (Color, Clarity, Cut and t) the subject of diamond pro ut) is easily the most misunder stood. The GIA has subdivided proportion analysis into four Classes based on table diameter, crown angle, pavilion depth, girdle thickness, finish and symmetry. Each Class contains wide parameters for proper propor tioning and, therefore, provides an infinite variety of differing cutting proportions all of which are considered equally appropriate within each Class The GIA proportion analy sis format, thus, illustrates what every dia mond expert in this business knows: that there are literally hundreds of different dia mond proportions available which create beautiful and highly desirable gems. Because there are so many accepted types of proportioning in diamond cut, there is no agreement in the diamond industry on what constitutes the "best" cut This is be cause the main factors affected by cut (dis persion and brilliance) cannot all be maxi mized in the same gem. "Dispersion" is sometimes referred to as rti.AAM.Un (Ka aKilitu nf Mia diamond to break down tight into toe spectral colors (blues, reds, yellows, etc ). ‘‘Brilliance' refers to the ability of the diamond to return colorless or "white' light to the viewer As common sense will tell you, if you increase a diamond's ability to break light into the spectral colors you reduce its ability to return colorless or "white" light Con versely, if you increase a diamond's ability to return colorless or "white* light you reduce its ability to break light into the spectral colors. That is why there is no such thing as a diamond cut to maximum dispersion and maximum brillance both at the same time. By cutting to maximize one of these factors the other is compromised, and since both are of equal importance it is impossible to authori tatively classify one type of cut as the "best" In buying a diamond it has been our experience that the consumer desires toe most beautiful gem his or her budget can afford Precisely how dispersion and bril liance translate into beauty, however, is a matter of personal opinion. In their chapter on The Importance of Cut and Proportion" the authors of "The Complete Guide to Buy ing Gems' state, with reference to the per centage measurements of various diamond cutting proportions, "No one has come to an agreement, however, on what the percent ages should be, since some people prefer fire to brilliance and vice versa. This is why there are several accepted types of propor tioning found in diamond cut. and 'best' is a matter of personal preference." In actuality, the difference in dispersion and brilliance between some differing diamond propor tions is so slight that It is measurable only with sensitive laboratory instruments and Is impossible to see with the naked eye. As discussed above, one area In which cut makes a big difference in the value of a diamond concerns the "heavy make" The term "heavy make" refers to a diamond that has a disproportionate share of its total carat weight concentrated in the depth of the stone Visually, this means that a “heavy Nebraska Diamond I-▼ GIA GIA Color Clarity COLORLESS <r flawless f , ,L NEAR h VERY yysn t — UCD V COLORLESS L j_ SLIGHT yysi-2 FAINT ^ IMPERFECTION YELLOW ^ VERY VSI-I VERY o' SUGHT UGHT ? IMPERFECTION VSI-2 YELLOW 0 S SLIGHT S1'1 T IMPERFECTION u SI-2 UGHT v 7. YELLOW w v IMPERFECT « 7 FANCY 1.3 YEJJ.OW Carat Weight f* 1 ct. = 90 to 110 pts. 7/8 ct = 80 to 89 pts. 3/4 ct = 70 to 79 pts. 5/8 ct. = 56 to 69 pts. 1/2 ct = 45 to 55 pts. 7/16 ct = 40 to 44 pts. 3/8 ct. = 36 to 39 pts. 1/3 ct = 29 to 35 pts. 1/4 ct. = 23 to 28 pts. 1/5 ct = 18 to 22 pts. 1/6 ct. = 15 to 17 pts. 1/8 ct. = 12 to 14 pts. 1/10 ct. = 9 to 11 pts. . 1 Exact Carat = 100 Points V GIA DIAMOND COLOR AND CLARITY TERMINOLOGY J I make’ diamond actually weighing 1 carat may only face up with the appearance and diameter of a 3/4 carat diamond cut to proper proportions Because they face up so much smaller than they should, “heavy makes’ are worth substantially less than properly pro portioned diamonds Because the “heavy make" is worth less, it costs the jeweler less, so he can sell it for less When the jeweler fails to tell his customer that he is showing a ‘heavy make" and fails to explain that the "heavy make’ is priced lower because it is worth less, the effect is to trick the consumer into thinking that he has purchased a full size diamond at a bargain price. This illusion is further enhanced when the jeweler shows only "heavy make' diamonds and does not show the consumer a full size diamond to enable the consumer to compare In fact, the problem of the "heavy make" is virtually never explained to the consumer, so the consumer simply assumes that any dia mond shown of a certain carat weight faces up the size that it should, and he purchases the "heavy make" unknowingly. We feel that this failure to inform the consumer is unfair and that It constitutes deception by omission. At Nebraska Diamond we give our custom ers a detailed explanation of this important subject. HOW TO SPOT DECEPTIVE TRADE PRACTICES Consumers should be aware of various trade practices which are common in the jewelry industry but which we feel are decep^ tive, unfair and, in many cases, illegal De ceptive bade practices cost consumers in calculable sums of money annually. Aware ness of these bade practices will assist the consumer in spotting them and avoiding them when shopping for fine jewelry Deceptive bade practices in the jewelry iruliKtiu tenri In fall nnnnrallu intn lum hrnart categories: 1. Practices which lead the consumer to believe that he is receiving a bargain pur chase when, in fact, he is not (fake ‘sales'), and 2. Practices which lead the consumer to believe the quality, quantity or description of the article being purchased is more or better than that which is actually delivered (active or constructive misrepresentation of the product either by act or omission). The concept of the fake ‘sale’ is an old one Basically. It plays on the desire of the consumer to obtain a bargain purchase Fake “sales* can be advertised or unadver tised. Here’s how the scheme works: In the advertised fake ‘sale* scheme the jeweler places an exorbitant and purely fictitious “regular price' or ‘appraised value' or “refer ence prioe'on an article of jewelry He then advertises “special sale prices’ or “drastic reductions' or “storewide 50% off clearance sale’ or ‘certified savings' or something similar to drum up excitement, and then he offers the article to the consumer for less than the fictitious ‘marked' price The con sumer buys the article believing he has re ceived a bargain In fact, though, under the scheme, the jeweler has sold the article for the prioe he always intended to sell it for There is no bargain because the article really wasn't marked down at all, so the consumer actually paid full price The fake ‘sale’ scheme is also employed in unadvertised “sales' In the unadvertised fake “sale' the consumer walks into the store and observes a fictitious 'marked' price on the article and the salesperson simply tells the consumer that the article is on “sale' even though the ’’sale' is not being publicly advertised, and then offers the article to the consumer for a 'reduced' price Both advertised and unad vertised fake ‘sales’ are high pressure sales techniques used to influence the customer to buy now before the‘sale* ends Intact, under either scheme, there is no “sale' and the customer is deceived The fake ‘sale' scheme has reached epidemic proportions In our opinion, the fake “sale' is the predomi nant tool used In advertised and unadver tisqd “prioe reduction’promotions in the jew elry industry today Jewelers who conduct fake "sales are simply betting that their customers are too stupid to figure out what is going on. We think that is a pom bet. Our experience with consumers convinces us that they are intelligent people who are en titled to be treated with honesty and respect Anytime you encounter a jewelry “sale" em ploying any of the above characteristics, we suggest that you exercise extreme caution Bring a copy of the "sale" advertisement or the unadvertised “sale" information to Ne braska Diamond Compare their so called “sale" prices to our regular everyday prices and see for yourself why Nebraska Diamond totally dominates Lincoln's engagement ring and fine jewelry market. The jewelry industry customarily em ploys several subtle techniques in an at tempt to convince the consumer that the quality, quantity or description of the article being purchased is more or better than that which is actually delivered We think that these techniques are deceptive and im proper and that consumers should be warned about them. First and foremost among these techniques is the imptementa tion of specialized lighting conditions de signed to enhance the true appearance of any gem stone or article of jewelry. This usually takes the form of chandeliers, spot lights, flood lamps, and reflector lamps, both incandescent and fluorescent, plus tubular incandescent display case bulbs and other similar type light sources These light sources are instantly reoognizabie by their “hot", “bright"or intense’appearance. Such lights artificially enhance the appearance, dispersion, scintillation and brilliance in dia monds and, further, they make it impossible to accurately determine the GIA color and clarity grade In other words, these lights make the diamond appear better than it is. White others may argue that the use of specialized lighting is merely a merchandis ing and display technique, we prefer to think that consumers are entitled to see exactly what they are getting As a practical matter, tfio rtnlw imunlrw ctrvrn linhtinn rnnHitiAn which is non deceptive, that is, which pres ents the true appearance of gem stones and articles of jewelry, is color corrected tubular fluorescent lighting. Even this light, in order to be non-deceptive, must be presented at a low height in a closed and carefully con trolled environment, undiluted and uncon taminated by other tight sources These are the lighting conditions which are used for laboratory grading of diamonds, and these are the lighting conditions you will find at Nebraska Diamond At Nebraska Diamond we sell quality jewelry, and we adhere to the philosophy that when you sell quality jewelry you don't need deceptive lighting conditions THE CONSUMER’S RIGHT TO KNOW The ultimate purpose for the consumer to acquire product knowledge is to enable him or her to separate fact" from “sales pitch" Your right as a consumer to know the facts is unequivocal, and should indude nothing less than the folio wing 1. You have the right to demand that the jeweler accurately grade your diamond in conformity with the QIA diamond grading system, mat he fully disclose that grade to you and that he show you how the grade was determined Never purchase a diamond without such a disclosure 2. You have the right to examine your diamond loose before making your pur chase You cannot accurately observe the color or clarity of a diamond or authenticate its carat weight or determine that it is not chipped if it is already set into a ring Never purchase a diamond that you have not exam med loose. 3 You have the right to examine your diamond under the lighting conditions used for laboratory grading of diamonds, that is. under color corrected tubular fluorescent lighting, presented at a low height in a closed and carefully controlled environment undi luted and uncontaminated by other light sources Never purchase a diamond that you have not examined under such lighting conditions 4. You have the right to examine the oolor of your diamond in awhile color grading trough and to examine the clarity of your diamond under a loupe or microscope, and you have the right to expect the jeweler to point out exactly what you should see Never purchase a diamond that you have not examined in this manner 5. You have the right to have your diamond weighed in your presence on an electronic diamond scale to verify its claimed carat weight. Never buy a dia mond that you have not observed in this manner. 6. You have the right to ask any ques tions pertinent to your purchase and you have the right to expect a courteous, informed, accurate and complete answer Never purchase anything from a jeweler who shows disrespect for your right as a consumer to know A FINAL WORD At Nebraska Diamond we've built our reputation on unhurried personal service, tremendous selection, superb quality, and unbeatable prices That's why Ne braska Diamond totally dominates Lincoln’s engagement ring and fine jew elry market At Nebraska Diamond we give you benefits you cant get at any other jewelry store We regularly stock over 800 styles of engagement and wedding rings and with each we also include our free Wedding Savings Package™ coupon booklet which entitles Nebraska Diamond customers to huge discounts at 23 other area merchants on everything needed for a perfect wedding At Nebraska Diamond we believe that earning your trust is file most important thing we do, and that trust is earned with quality, value, service and honesty Our track record speaks for it self Our unmatched reputation is our most valuable asset and our uncompro mising commitment to our customers has made us THE PLACE for engagement rings and fine jewelry We look forward to serving you. ©Copyright 1991 Nebraska Diamond sales Company, Inc All Rights Reserved NEBRASKA DIAMOND 865 NBC Center 13th &0 Lincoln, Nebraska 68508 (402)474-6400 USA 1-800-334-GEMS THE PLACE for Engagement Rings and Fine Jewelry PAID ADVERTISEMENT J