The daily Nebraskan. ([Lincoln, Neb.) 1901-current, February 02, 1989, Page 3, Image 3
f -—---—------ ' N PAID ADVERTISEMENT HOW TO BUY DIAMONDS WITH CONFIDENCE AND KNOWLEDGE By John Tavtin President Nebraska Diamond For the average consumer buying a diamond can be one of the most confus aand frustrating experiences imagm i. The consumer is often confronted wifi a barrage of conflicting claims from various jewelers intent on seKng their product .if flie consumer is notarmed with adequate product knowledge, he stands ktfle chance lor success in toe jewelry marketplace. A UNIFORM SYSTEM OF DIAMOND GRADING Serious shopping for diamonds be Otoe wito an understanding of tie Gemo fogteai Institute of America fGiA) and its diamond grading system. The GIA is a non-profltcrgartizalondedfcaftBdprimar flytotoepureufttfgeawtogical education (towns and operates toe mostprastigious trade laboratory lor toe identification and classification of gem stones in tills ooun tiy . The GIA is considered by toe diamond industry to be Iho final and most authori tative word on diamond grading stan dards in the United States and its grading system tor diamonds is. by far, the domi nant grading system used by diamond cutting firms and jewelry manufacturers in this country today Knowledge of the GIA diamond grad ing system is a pre requisite for informed buying of diamonds, and knowledge of that system without an actual “hands on" demonstration is virtually impossible The accompanying chart shows a total of 240 separate and distinct combinations of GIA grades and there is a separate and distinct price list for each grade within each size category At Nebraska Dia mond we give all customers a thorough explanation and demonstration of the GIA diamond grading system using actual examples, so that the oonsumer can see with his or her own eyes the characters tics and appearance of the various graces me two principal reasons why customers need this special instruction and knowledge to survive in the jewelry marketplace are 1 Many jewelers invent their own personal grading system because by doing so they make it difficult or impos sible for the consumer to comparison shop The GIA system is a uniform sys tern of diamond grading and gives the consumer a standard of comparison 2 Jewelers who do represent dia monds to consumers in GIA terms often "puff" the grade up to whatever level is necessary to make the sale A diamond which is assigned a GIA grade by one of these jewelers may actually be inferior to a diamond offered, with a seemingly lower GIA grade, by a jeweler who ad heros to the strict grading standards we use at Nebraska Diamond The untortu nate result is frequently a customer who is duped into purchasing a low quality diamond In our opinion, fraudulent mis representation of diamond grades repre sents one of the most serious and wide spread problems in the jewelry industry today Your only real protection as a consumer is to educate yourself about the product and demand a written guaran tee At Nebraska Diamond we will show you how to identify the various GIA grades by yourself, and we will guarantee the quality of your diamond in GIA terms hi irnuini, i vu wv i iwi ^ui ii iu nouiuunu Diamond guarantee at any other |ewelry store. THE RELATIONSHIP OF COLOR, CLARITY, CUT AND CARAT WEIGHT Color, clarity, out and carat weight all have an important impact on the ultimate value of your diamond In “The Complete Guide to Buying Gems” (Copyright 1984, Crown Publishers, Inc New York), dia mond authorities Antoinette Leonard Matlins and Antonio C Ronanno, F G A , P G state, “If we were to identity the factors that determine the value of a dia mond in order of their importance, we would list them as follows: 1. Body Color (color grade) 2. Degree of flawlessness (clarity grade) 3 Cut and proportion (often referred to as the make) 4 Carat weight” Color refers to the hue present in the body of the diamond Color is observed by placing the diamond upside down in a white color grading trough and viewing through the side of me gem Among color, clarity, cut and carat weight, color is the characteristic most easily noticed by the human eye and it has the most impact on the appearanoe of the gem, hence, oolor carrios the most value Clarity refers to a measurement of the internal flaws and surface blemishes Resent In or on a diamond Sometimes lernal flaws and surtaoe blemishes can be seen only under magnification To magnify a diamond a leweTor's loupe or a microscope is used The microscope is often used more as a sales tool than a gem Instrument bo cause its "laboratory" appearance can be Impressive to con i -— sumers. The microscope, however, is a cumbersome pieoe of equipment and is less flexible than the loupe for examine tion of diamonds. For these reasons, among others the loupe is by tar the dominant diamond grading instrument used by diamond dealers At Nebraska Diamond you may view your diamond under both a jeweler's loupe and under a microscope designed for professional diamondexaminatian. Among oolor, clar ity. cut and cared weight, darity is me second most observable characteristic and has me seoood most impact on the appearance of me gem. hence, darity carries me second most value Cut refers to me proportions of me diamond. A diamond can be cut 10 any one of an infinite number of proportions depending on (he angles of me facets These angles can vary from diamond to diamond . As explained below, proportion analysis is extremely subjective and the effect of differing proportions on me ap pearance and value of the diamond is often a matter of opinion. Generally, however, except for the proportion called tire heavy make’ discussed below, cutis a less observable characteristic man oolor or clarity from a quantitative stand point and, hence, cut generally carries less value Carat weight refers to the weight of the diamond and not to its size This is an important distinction because two dia monds which weigh the same can appear drastically different in size and this may result in drastically different values even if color and darity remain constant Sometimes consumers forget that size is a dimensional measurement expressed in millimeters The term "Carat” is oniy a weight measurement One Carat is equal to 1/5 gram If a diamond is cut with its weight concentrated in its depth, a pro portion called the "heavy make”, it will not appear as large as a diamond of the exact same carat weight cut with its weight con centrated in its width The difference in value between these two diamonds can be substantial, often exceeding *o% CUT:THE MISUNDERSTOOD “C” Among the 4 "C's" (Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat weight) the subject of diamond proportioning (Cut) is easily the most misunderstood The GIA has subdivided proportion analysis into four Classes based on table diameter, crown angle, pavilion depth, girdle thickness, finish and symmetry Each Class contains wide parameters for proper proportioning and, therefore, provides for an infinite variety of differing cutting proportions, all of which are considered equally appropri ate, within each Class The GIA propor tion evaluation format, thus, illustrates what every diamond expert in this busi ness knows that there are literally hun dreds of different diamond proportions available which create beautiful and highly desirable gems Because there are so many accepted types of proportioning in diamond cut, there is no agreement in the diamond industry on what constitutes the "best" cut. This is because the main factors af fected by cut (dispersion, scintillation and brilliance) cannot ail be maximized in the same gem "Dispersion" is sometimes referred to as "Firer Dispersion means the ability of the diamond to break down light into the spectral colors (blues, reds, yellows, etc ). "Scintillation" is sometimes referred to as “Sparkle" Scintillation refers to the play of light between and as reflected off me oiamona idcwis “Brilliance" refers to the ability of the diamond to return colorless light to the viewer There is no such thing as a diamond cut to maximum dispersion and maxi mum scintillation and maximum brilliance all at the same time By cutting to maxi mize one of these factors, the other two are compromised, and since all three are of equal importance, it is impossible to authoritatively classify one type of cut as the "best" In buying a diamond it has been our experience mat the consumer desires the most beautiful gem his or her budget can afford Precisely how dispersion, sdnW lation and brilliance translate to beauty, however, is a matter of personal opinion In their chapter on "The Importance of Cut and Proportion" mo authors ot “The Com plete Guide to Buying Gems" siate, with reference to the percentage measure ments of various diamond cutting propor tions , “No one has come to an agreement, however, on what the percentages should be, sinoe some people prefer fire to brilliance and vice versa This is why there are several accepted types ot pro portioning found in diamond cut, and "best" is a matter ot personal preference" In actuality, the difference in dispersion, scintillation and brilliance between some differing diamond proportions Is so slight that It is measurable only with sensitive laboratory instruments and is impossible to see with the naked eye. As discussed above one area in which cut makes a big difference in the value of a diamond ooncerns the “heavy make" The term “heavy make’ refers to a diamond that has a disproportionate share of its total carat weight concen trated in the depth of the stone Visually, this means that a “heavy make" diamond actually weighing 1 carat may only face up with fie appearance and diameter of a 3/4 carat diamond cut to proper propor tons Because they face up so much smaller than they should, "heavy makes" are worth substantially less than properly proportioned diamonds Because the “heavy make" is worth less, it costs the ‘ k less, so he can sell it for less the jeweler fails to tell his customer that he is showing a "heavy make" and fails to explain that the Tieavy make" is priced lower because it is worth less, the effect is to trick the consumer into thinking he has purchased a full size diamond at a bargain price In fact, the problem of the “heavy make" is virtually never explained to the consumer, so the consumer simply assumes that any diamond shown of a certain carat weight faces up the size that it should, and he purchases the “heavy make" unknowingly We feel that this failure to inform the consumer constitutes deception by omission Seldom is the subject of cut properly and fairly explained to the consumer At Nebraska Diamond our customers re cei ve all of the facts and an explanation of every option. HOW TO SPOT DECEPTIVE TRADE PRACTICES Consumers should be aware of vari ous trade practices which are common in the jewelry industry but which we feel are deceptive, unfair and, in many cases, illegal Deceptive trade practices cost consumers incalculable sums of money annually Awareness of these trade prac tices will assist the consumer in spotting them and avoiding them when shopping for fine jewelry Deceptive trade practices in the jew elry industry tend to fall generally into two broad categories: 1. Practices which lead the con sumer to believe that he is receiving a bargain purchase when, in fact, he is not (fake “sales"), and 2. Practices which lead toe con sumer to bolieve the quality, quantity or description of the article being purchased is more or better than that which is actu ally delivered (active or constructive misrepresentation of the product either by actor omission) The concept of the “fake sale" is an old one Basically. Itplays on toe desire of the consumer to obtain a bargain purchase Here’s.how toe scheme works: The jew eler places an exorbitant and purely ficti tious “regular price" or “appraised value” or ‘reference price” on an article of jew elry. He then advertises "special sale prices” or drastic reductions or “store wide 50% off clearance sale” or certified savings” or something similar, and offers tha article to the consumer for less than this fictitious “marked” prloO The con sumer buys the article believing he has reoeived a bargain In fact, though, undor the scheme, toe jeweler has sold toe article tor the price he always intended to sell It for There Is no bargain because the article really wasn't marked down at aU, so the consumer actually paid full price The iake "sale” scheme has reached epidemic proportions In our opinion, the fake “sale' is the predominant tool used in advertised 'price reduction” promotions in the jewelry industry today Jewelers who conduct take sales' are simply betting that their customers are too stupid to figure out what is going on We think that is a poor bet Our experience with consumers convinces us that they are in kAID ADVERTISEMENT telligent people who are entitled to be treated with honesty and respect Any time you encounter a jewelry “sale” employing any of the above described characteristics, we suggest that you exercise extreme caution Bring a copy of the “sale" advertisement to Nebraska Diamond Compare their so called “sale" prices to our regular everyday prices and see for yourself why Nebraska Diamond totally dominates Lincoln's engagement ring and fine jewelry market The jewelry industry customarily em ploys several subtle techniques in an at tempt to convince the consumer that the quality, quantity or description of the ar ticle being purchased is more or better than that which is actually delivered We think that these techniques are deceptive and improper and that consumers should be warned about them First and fore most among these techniques is the im plementation of specialized lighting con ditions designed to enhanoe the true ap pea ranee of any gemstone or article of jewelry. This usually takes the form of chandeliers, spot lights, flood lamps, and reflector lamps, both incandescent and fluorescent, plus tubular incandescent display case bulbs and other similar type light sources These light sources are instantly recognizable by their hot", "bright" or “intense" appearance Such lights artificially enhance the appear ance, brilliance and dispersion in dia monds and, further, they make it impos sible to accurately determine the GIA color and clarity grade In other words, these lights make the diamond appear better than it is While others may argue that the use of this specialized lighting is merely a merchandising and display technique, we prefer to think that con sumers are entitled to see exactly what they are getting As a practical matter the only lighting conditions which are non uc’uofjiivo, si int 19, *»i hwi i piuaui is u iw u *«w appearance of gemstones and articles of jewelry, are natural daylight and color corrected tubular fluorescent lighting which simulates natural daylight Even this light, in order to be non deceptive, must be presented in a dosed and care fully controlled environment, undiluted and uncontaminated by other light sources These are the lighting condi tions which are used for laboratory grad ing of diamonds, and these are the light ing conditions you will find at Nebraska Diamond At Nebraska Diamond we sell quality jewelry, and we adhere to the phi losophy that when you sell qual'tyjeweli y you don't need deceptive lighting condi tions THE CONSUMER’S RIGHT TO KNOW The ultimate purpose for the con sumer to acquire product knowledge is to enable him or her to separate "fact' from "sales pitch.* Your right as a consumer to know the facts is unequivocal, and should include nothing less than the fol lowing : 1 You have the right to demand that the jeweler accurately grade your dia mond in oonformity with the Gl A diamond grading system, that he fully disclose that grade to you and show you now the grade was determined, and that he provide you with a written warranty guaranteeing the authenticity of that grade Never pur chase a diamond without such a disclo sure and warranty 2 You have the right to examine your diamond loose before making your purchase. You cannot accurately ob serve the color or clarity of a diamond which is set into a ring Never purchase a diamond that you have not examined loose. 3 You have the right to examine your diamond under the lighting conditions used for laboratory grading of diamonds, that is, under natural daylight and under color corrected tubular flu orescent light ing which simulates natural daylight, in a closed and carefully controlled environ ment undiluted and uncontaminated by other light sources Never purchase a diamond that you have not examined under such lights 4 You have the t ight to examine the color of your diamond in a white color grading trough and to examine the clarity of your diamond under a loupe or micro scope, and you have the right to expect the jeweler to point out exactly what you should see Never purchase a diamond that you have not examined in this man ner 5 You have the right to ask any questions pertinent to your purchase and you have the right to expect a courteous, informed, accurate and complete an swer Never purchase anything from a jeweler who shows disrespect for your right as a consumer to know. A FINAL WORD At Nebraska Diamond we ve built our • eputation on superb quality, unsur passed personal servioe, tremendous selection and unbeatable prices That’s why Nebraska Diamond totally domi nates Lincoln's engagement ring and fine ,eweiry market With each engagement ring or wedding band we also include our free Wedding Savings Package which entitles Nebraska Diamond customers to exclusive preferential discounts at 22 other area merchants on everything needed tor a perfect wedding We believe that earning your trust is the most impor tant thing we do and that trust is earned with quality, value, service and honesty Our track record speaks for itself: Our un matched reputation is our most valuable asset and our uncompromising commit ment to our customers has made us THE PLACE for engagement rings and fine jewelry We look forward to serving you ©Copyright 1988 Nebraska Diamond Sales Company, Inc All Rights Reserved - — -—— O Nkrraska Diamond Shape* GIA Color BrUUast Heart Shape S COLORLESS < T k NEAR H COLORLESS * L EmraMCat vEUoS'fe ^ VERY (j" LIGHT ■ F YELLOW 0 MarqaU* U0HT J YELLOW W li FANCY YELLOW G1A Carat Clarity Weight FLAWLESS F 1 CL = 90 t6 110 pt*. 7/8 CL = 80 to 89 pt*. VERY yy^g 3/4 CL = 70 to 79 pt*. VE*Y 5/8 CL = 56 to 69 pt*. WS|-1 1/2 ct. * 65 to 55 pt*. 7/16 CL * 40 to 44 pt*. VERY VSM 3/8 CL = 36 to 39 pt*. IMPERFECTION VSM 1/3 Ct = 29 *° 35 ** mK*FECno" |/4 ct = 23 to 28 pt*. 1/5 cL = 18 to 22 pi*. * - ;• •• j! ^ si-t 1/8 cL = 12 to 14 pt*. H 1/10 cL = 9 to 11 pt*. imperfect |.f I Carat = 100 Point* 1-3 [ GIA DIAMOND COLOR AND CLARITY TERMINOLOGY J -JSZ_ NEBRASKA DIAMOND 865 NBC Center 13th &0 Lincoln, Nebraska 68508 (402) 474-6400 USA 1-800-334-GEMS THE PLACE for , Engagement Rings and Fine Jewelry __