■For upwardly mobile Mexican: Julio’s
yy ONdlica L-icuiaiiv^c
Senior Editor_
The results of Lincoln’s attempts to
rejuvenate its downtown area in the
image of other redeveloped yuppie
friendly cities like Denver and Min
neapolis are obvious to most everyone
by now.
Dining Review
Although the redevelopment is in its
first stages, the new Victorian marquee
on the Stuart Theater, the revamped
building facades around 12th and 0
streets, and the towering cranes that
hover above the Lied Center construc
tion site, are reminders that the city is
changing from an often deserted down
town to an expensive neon-lit haven for
the upwardly mobile.
And now Julio’s adds to that environ
ment.
Although Lincoln has no shortage
of fine Americanized Mexican restau
rants, Julio’s is a welcome addition to
the downtown area.
The portions are more than generous
— huge mounds of nachos smothered
in cheese, beans and beef, and regular
meals that would stuff even a person
who thinks ethnic food is for sissies.
The food is a respectable mixture of
American bland payability, and the
exotic flair and presentation any eth
nic food must have to give the illusion,
often erroneous, that you are eating
something you couldn't possibly pre
pare at home.
Of course the prices are upscale, but
within reason. The really gigantic por
tions, though, make up for what comes
out of your wallet. Lunches are the
most affordable; daily specials cost
between $4 and $6.
Items like Meatloaf Monterrey can
make lunch an unpredictable expe
rience: good all-American meatloaf in a
spicy gravy with Spanish condiments.
The evening menu goes up in price by
about a dollar.
The standard Mexican fare — chi
michangas, burritos and the like — are
prepared beautifully, with flaky shells,
subtly spiced sauces and interesting
soups and vegetables.
What is going to be most popular
about JulioTs, though, is the atmos
phere; the intimate neon glow and
informal Victorian chic of the place are
the shape of things to come in Lincoln
dining.
See JULIO’S on 16
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Gunney Complex Calvert Place Mall
24i N. 13th St. 3534 S 48th St.
402-475-5550 402.488-316';
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Lincoln Gateway Shpc Ctr. Beatrice
6450 0 St. 301 S. 6th
402-466-2779 402-223-5028
