TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 1934 Paid Advertising - A SUPPLEMENT TO THE DAILY NEBRASKAN Page 13 - Paid Advertising - v; bur Most Important Purchase If you're planning to be engaged soon, it would be wise to educate yourself about diamond rings before making that all-important purchase. Your first decision is whether to surprise her with the ring or ask her help in selecting it. Most couples today shop together, making it a shared experience. And, many women like to have a say in choosing their diamond. If you decide to shop together, first visit your jeweler by yourself, and select a few diamonds in your price range. The jeweler will put aside those pre-selected rings and show only those when you and your fiancee come In together. Remember, you must expect to pay more for your diamond today than your fathers or grandfather did, because diamonds have appre ciated over the years. "I?onrC o" dot2niii2 the value of diamondo . v u C 3 COLOU Nearly all gem dia monds have some slight yellowish body color. The degree of this color, as it varies from colorless (the best grade) to yellowish, affects the price you pay. Occasionally diamonds termed "fancy" do appear with a definite body color of canary yellow, pink, brown, or sapphire blue. These, due to their rarity, command a high er price. Over the years, Sartor Hamann has accumulated one of the largest collection of fancy color ed diamonds to be found anywhere. CLAHITY Most diamonds con tain natural imperfections; spots, bubbles, or lines included in the stone when it was crystalized from carbon millions of years ago. These imperfections are called Inclusions." Minute inclusions, seen only with difficulty under 10 power magnifi cation, do not mar the beauty of the gem but will reduce the cost. The fewer inclusions in a diamond, the more valuable it is. Sartor Hamann shows you diamonds in a Binocular Gem Microscope so you see every detail of the diamond. CAEAT This is the unit weight used for diamonds. There are 100 points to a carat, so a diamond of 27 points is little more than a quarter carat. Of the "Four Cs," carat weight is the least important in determining diamond value. A fine . one carat diamond may cost more than an inferior diamond cf greater size. It is the cutting, color, and clar ity factors that determine the per carat price of each stone. CUT Cut refers to the shape of a diamond and to the arrangement . of its facets. The diagrams on the left show the popular diamond shapes. Marquise, pear-shaped and oval diamonds tend to look larger than round (brilliant) or emerald cut diamonds of the same weight, but the round has more brilliancy. Cut is the most important of the "Four Cs" for anything less than an ideal cut will reduce both the beauty and value cf the stone. Sar tor Hamann specializes in the ideal cut diamonds that have been cut for maximum beauty. CUTTING: The moot impor&mt factor in pricing a diamond. Ey Esb Fixtcr The cutting of a diamond should be regarded a3 more important than color or clarity in determining the value of a diamond. Diamonds are cut into exact mathematical formu las. The standard diamond has 58 facets placed in a precise geometri cal arrangement. The facets act as a series of tiny mirrors, constantly capturing and reflecting light and bouncing it back through the top. Like a prism, a diamond breaks light into "fire" every color of the rain bow. ... Poorly cut stones permit light "leakage" and have too little fire to give the ultimate in beauty. A dia mond cut too shallow to make it look larger loses brilliancy. The eye sees a ring of dull reflection instead of a well cut diamond. Too shallow a .cutting may also make a diamond rut too deep -let light leak through the sides and appear black in the center when compared to an ideal cut diamond. But few diamonds today are cut to what the fine jeweler considers ideal proportions. The average dia mond is cut with too broad a top facet and at the same time the upper part of the stone is much too thin. This type of cutting yields stones that lack fire and sparkle. True, this permits a larger stone to be cut from the rough diamond than would be the case in ideal cut ting. But the loss of beauty is too great. Its per carat value is consid erably less than that of a diamond cut to ideal proportions for maxi mum beauty. Less than 1 of all diamonds are cut to ideal propor tion. Sartor Hamann specialises in these ideal cut diamonds. Let them show you the difference ideal cutting makes in the value and beauty cf your diamond. However, whether you go together or surprise her, learn all you can about how to buy a diamond before shopping. A diamond is an investment in beauty; it i3 an investment in indi viduality no two diamonds are alike. And, it is an investment in the future, because a diamond, the hard est substance known to man, i3 forever. talie tone to prepar By Don Hamann The gem on your finger or in the jeweler's window was formed more than sixty million years ago. The diamond is basically carbon which is like graphite in your pencil. The difference being the diamond was formed under extreme heat and pressure over a period of millions of year. The comparative scarcity of gem diamonds recovered in proportion to the tons of heavy rock removed and processed, all add to the cost and value of the diamond you wear. Based upon the recent yields of five South African mines, it takes approximately 23 tons of blue ground to produce one carat of rough gem quality diamond. Of this one carat of rough diamond, more than fifty percent of the weight is lost when the diamond is cut to scientific proportions. At one time diamonds were cut by cleaving (or splitting) operation. Today, this method has been replac ed by sawing. This is done with a special circular saw impregnated with diamond dust. The next fashioning operation consists of "rounding" the diamond into the rough form of the finished stone. Finally, the skilled cutter pla ces the individual j8 facets on the diamond by using a polishing wheel charged with diamond dust. Each facet has a definite angle in relation to the top of the diamond, and each facet should be highly polished. Sartor Hamann buys very large lots of ungraded diamonds directly from the cutter. In doing so, they J bypass a wholesaler in New York, ? I passing the savings directly to the I ? hiiwr. A X - , .. 1 t ! Vj if fV SzzZz 1:3, V.zlzrt JL;"S L.J i ltcr, ChsJ Czz't'.: G::y Tex, Certl Cc zlz ' lit Dtti Llr ".2, 'Izzzi Zzzt . 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