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Kidney pie combats
rising meat prices
One benefit of living cheaply is that every day uou are
presented with an incentive to discover a less espensive way to
dine well. One of the highest hurdles in the search for better
eating is the ulcer-aggravating height of current meat prices.
The price of simple hamburger has driven many of my
friends to vegetarianism; tearing hungrily into an ascetic meal
of rice and canned yams, with a salad providing ihe only
cheery note in an otherwise melancholy tableau. I eat with
these friends and commiserate with them, but I cannot help
but revolt at the idea that eating cheaply must tie a grim,
belt-tighteninq experience.
I was treated to a succulent dinner recently, rich with meat,
at the home of two friends whose food budget would make a
churchmouse feel rich by comparison. Their secret?
Steak-and-kidney pie.
In England, one discovers the true magnificence of this
dish, based upon a meat that the British delicately refer to as
offal. Wherever you find it, in a roadside pub or in a London
grill, it is marvelous-the crust may be a trifle spongy, but the
dark stew underneath it is tender, rich perfection.
My friends learned to prepare steak-and -kidney pie while
living in England a few years ago, and today, with the prii.es of
most meats hovering around the astronomical level, anil with
the price of kidneys down arounc 75 cents a lb., it is truly a
dish whose time has come.
dovid wore omelet
2 lb. lean, boneless beol (buy what's chtapost, a hmskoi nsi.aily boin
the best value for the money)
1-12 lb. beef kidneys, with mombrnni'. (.it, and nerves rue -over
14 lb. beef suet
2 onions, coarsly chopped
112 dups tinned boef bouillon, undiluted
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
Flaky pastry crust
Cut the beef into uniform 2-in. pieces, trimming away all
grisle and fat. Cut the kidneys into slightly larger pieces.
Meanwhile, render the suet until it covers the bottom of the
pot, and saute the onions in it unlil golden. Now add the beef
and brown the chunks on all sides, stirring all the while; add
the kidneys and do the same until they lose their pinkness.
Stir in enough bouillon to cover, then add the sauce and a
bit of pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover anil cook slowly
for at least 1-12 hours, or until all the meat is fork tender.
Cool the stew, and taste for seasoning.
Half an hour before serving, ai range it in a suitably sized
casserole, the stew being at room tempeiafure and cover with
the flaky pastry crust. Bake at 425 degrees foi 15 min., then
lower the oven and finish the crust at 35 degrees for 10 15
min. ,
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